PVC frames for ground border pixels

Your right must be my network here again, had this problem before with bad DNS information coming from our ISP (Verizon). Last time this happened I couldn't even get to this website. I'll give them a call again. Thanks

BTW Love this idea
 
Looks great! Do you think the grey pvc will hold up the GECE pathway bulbs without sagging? I was going to go with 1/2 emt for my borders this year. But this would be cheaper.
 
Looks great! Do you think the grey pvc will hold up the GECE pathway bulbs without sagging? I was going to go with 1/2 emt for my borders this year. But this would be cheaper.
Those are GECE bulbs in the pics. I used 3/4" to prevent sag.

I'll get some pictures later. But the premise of my new stakes is simply a snap-tee on a 12" section of allthread. These are the Snap Tees I used:
http://flexpvc.com/cart/agora.cgi?p=PVC-Fittings-Tees-Snap-Pressure&p_id=464-097&xm=on&ppinc=detail
That's for 3/4" pipe. They're also available for 1/2" and other sizes as well.
The key to making this work is the close relationship between 1/8" Female NPT pipe threads and 3/8-16 screw thread. The guy at FlexPVC.com was very helpful in helping me find something that would work. He was actually thinking for me and grabbed a 3/8" bolt and screwed it into the tee he had to test it out before even shipping me anything. The threads don't match, but they're close. And since the allthread is steel and the tee is plastic, you can simply screw the rod into the 1/8" NPT side of the snap tee. You're intentionally cross threading the plastic. Sure this will render the snap tee useless for it's original purpose, but what would you use these for anyhow? You can do it part way by hand, but if you want to snug it up you'll need to hold the rod with a tool. You could do it the "right way" and double nut the allthread and turn it with a box wrench. But I'm not using the rest of the thread for anything anyhow, so I just did it the "fast way" and grabbed it with a vise-grip. The only reason I'm using allthread at all is because it's cheaper and more readily available than plain steel rod in the stores. I could probably source 3/8" rod and thread the end and it would look cleaner, but that's more work, and plain rod isn't cheap unless you're buying in bulk from a steel supplier.

So to retrofit from my original design, I just used the same allthread sections, and screwed them into the snap tees. Then I cut off all of the belled ends of the PVC pipe. It was a quick changeover and only cost the price of the tees.

The benefit to the snap tee is that while it holds the pipe rather firmly, it also allows some float in the joint. So when expansion and contraction happens, it's got somewhere to go. Each 10' stick of PVC will expand .090" for every 25 degree rise in temp. I plan for a 75 deg delta. I typically do set up on the warmest end of the range, around 65 degrees or so. I leave 1/16" or so of a gap between the ends of the pipes in the tee. then on the coldest winter days, i'll see that gap get to over 1/4" or more. It doesn't sound like a lot, but over 100' or more on my driveway borders, it really adds up.

I'm not at all affiliated with FlexPVC, but I do want to recommend them. They're really helpful and creative, and have lots of strange parts and fittings. I just wish I could walk into his warehouse some days when I'm being creative to see what fits into what. He was also very curious when I mentioned this was for Christmas lighting. He seemed to love helping people do creative and unusual things with his products.
 
You don't have to use your ISP's DNS server. I have Charter for internet access, but use Google's DNS server in my router configuration. I would recommend OpenDNS or Google DNS servers.

https://www.opendns.com/home-internet-security/opendns-ip-addresses/
https://developers.google.com/speed/public-dns/docs/using

Your right must be my network here again, had this problem before with bad DNS information coming from our ISP (Verizon). Last time this happened I couldn't even get to this website. I'll give them a call again. Thanks

BTW Love this idea
 
I still get asked about this so I wanted to post back with the part number on those snap tees.
170f0e44589c52359b745548c9a4d189.jpg

151cc23fcae10f951052d1a8bc75ed39.jpg


And a fresh photo after they've been in use for a few years now.
6038185740bb4f4935984e2d1090d33a.jpg


9059d1d5e65a499a047f48eff000cb43.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Jon,

That is an awesome discovery. 25+ years working in/with the construction trades, cannot say I have seen this snap-on tee. LOVE IT! Now the gears are turning --- nice job :thup: We are 3 hours north of you and get some deep snows which buries my ideas ... for now.

The missus has asked about something like this - when she creates - I build :biggrin2:

Thanks for sharing this discovery!
 
Thanks. Thanks honestly don't know why the actual purpose is for the snap tees. I think maybe for irrigation. Whatever it is must be a low pressure application. Sometimes they're also called saddle tees.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
They're to add a tee for a riser to an existing line without cutting the line. You clean, sand, prime, and glue the tee onto the line, then once the glue is set, you drill a hole into the pipe and add the riser to the threaded end of the saddle tee.
 
Since the Tees are originally used to create a "tap" from the pipe, I wouldn't expect them to be able to handle repeated connect/disconnect.
However, they appear to be fine in the photos. Have you had many of them break? How often do you connect/disconnect?
 
I have been using these for probably 10 years now for various things. I bet I've snapped and unsnapped some of these a 100 times without issue. I love them! To be fair, the ones i use are 3/4" to either a 1/2" or 3/4" pipe thread.

Louie

Sent from my SM-G928V using Tapatalk
 
Thanks Louie. I've been looking for something like this (I have the HC Lexan clips in the test at this time). If they can be put up and taken down often, then I'll jump on them.
 
Since the Tees are originally used to create a "tap" from the pipe, I wouldn't expect them to be able to handle repeated connect/disconnect.
However, they appear to be fine in the photos. Have you had many of them break? How often do you connect/disconnect?

I think I've only broken 1 out of a few hundred that I use. I forget how many years since I switched from the old method. Probably 4 now. Mine are painted which helps a bit with the UV degradation. I put my frames out before Halloween. Then adjust placement between Halloween and Christmas and then take them down towards the end of the winter when the weather starts to get nicer. They're out for a good 6 months per year and get about two snap/unsnap cycles per year.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I think I've only broken 1 out of a few hundred that I use. I forget how many years since I switched from the old method. Probably 4 now. Mine are painted which helps a bit with the UV degradation. I put my frames out before Halloween. Then adjust placement between Halloween and Christmas and then take them down towards the end of the winter when the weather starts to get nicer. They're out for a good 6 months per year and get about two snap/unsnap cycles per year.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks Jon. As usually, logic and practice don't always coincide, hence the question. Good to know.
 
Back
Top