Renard SS power cord - daisy chain option

Wayne J

Super Moderator
Staff member
I done a similar write up on daisy chain power cords for the SSR boards, so I felt it would be good to have it for the controllers as well. It is the same concept, but I will do a pictorial tutorial using a SS16 board and CG-1000 enclosure. I use this method in my own display and it works great with small loads, like LEDs, and saves a lot on extension cord costs.

Very important! You must know the amperage draws of your display to use this method effectively. Amps add up fast when controllers are chained together making this method is more suited for LED displays.




Here are the parts you will need....
.
  • Triple tap extension cord
  • Two lengths of SPT1 or SPT2 (you can cut this from the extension cord also)
  • Two wire nuts ( must fit on three 16-18 gauge wires)
  • A wire clamp
  • 6-32 Pan head machine screw




After mounting the SS16 make sure you have access to this mounting boss



Prepare and install the crossover power wire. Only tighten the right side terminal at this time. Remember, the ribbed wire is the Neutral wire.



We will now make the main power feed wires. In my example I am using a 1/4" wire clamp, so I cannot clamp all of the wires. I can only clamp three of them, which is fine and works well, but this forces me to separate the wire into two strands. If you are using a larger clamp, you may not need to do this.
Strip the ends and insert them into the left power terminal. Make sure they go in clean with no frays! Again, remember, the ribbed wire is the Neutral wire.



Now we want to cut the triple tap from the extension cord. Make sure you cut it long enough to be outside the case. (look at the later pictures to see how it will mount for a better idea of length for you preference)




Now insert both pieces into the enclosure, and strip all 6 wires. Make sure you strip enough for the wire nuts to be able to secure properly.



Now group the three Hot and the three Neutral wires and twist them for the wire nuts. Then install the wire nuts securely.



This step depends on the size clamp you have, as I said earlier, I am using a 1/4" clamp so I can only grab 3 wires. This works well though and keeps the wiring from being pulled out of the enclosure. I place it on the three Neutral wires as shown and then secure it with the wire nut pointing down using the 6-32 machine screw. The hole in the enclosure is the right size to simply drive the screw in. Don't over tighten, remember it is only plastic.



That's it! You can now daisy chain controllers together, or use it for anything in the display that needs constant power.



IMPORTANT NOTE !!!!

Do not exceed the amperage rating of the cord on the first cord in the chain. The amps can add up fast when you chain them together. Know what this rating is for the cords you are using.
 
Great write-up Wayne!


I did something similar, minus the wirenuts, and I hope you don't mind my adding it to this thread.

Using the same style extension cord as Wayne...

1. Find the center of the cord and measure 7" away from that point in both directions and mark them with a sharpie.
2. At each point, slice the zip cord wires away from each other with a box cutter.
3. Slice about 3/4" of the insulation lengthwise at both points, then slice around the wire at the ends of the 3/4" cut.
4. Remove the insulation. Now your extension cord will have two areas of about exposed copper conductors about 3/4" long.
5. Fold the copper conductors in the center of the 3/4" area and pinch them with your fingers, and shove them into the AC IN of the renard controller, one in each.

And there you have it, no wire nuts.
 
Good idea!

If you use zip cord instead of an extension cord you may want to consider using one of the 5A Fused Male Plugs on the first controller to prevent the cords from being overloaded.
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Or you could make a mini fused extension cord to put in front of the first controller.
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Good tip Ricky, but considering the extension cords are 'usually' rated for 13A that would be a bit low. I like the idea though, maybe there is a way to come up with a limiter.
I personally use(d) the Watt Meter in Vixen and monitor the amperage when I was using incandescence lights, but with LEDs, it takes a lot to overcome 13A. My show with the channel count I have and 100% LEDs only spikes at 17A a couple times. I also, in the battle against GFCI trips, have separated the elements in my display and have 10 main feed runs. I use this daisy chain method on all of my controllers so I only have one cord going to the 'element' and they all plug into each other.
 
I didn't realize vixen had a watt meter. I totally missed that!

What I did instead was plug in one element at a time, then run over to the main cord to read the clamp-on AC meter I had around it.

back and forth, back and forth lol
 
Good point. I was thinking about that when I posted it but also thinking 5A would go pretty far with LEDs. Could always put one of these inline fuse holders in the first controller.(I doubt it is water resistant)

With that many feed runs you probably don't get anywhere near the max on any one run.

I need to do this mod to some of my controllers in the off season.
 
Hey folks,

I see some good common sense being used here. I have one thought you might have overlooked. To qualify, I've been an electrician for 30+ years. Just started coming around more due to my !#$#%&!@% LOR S4 sequencer *BUT* see I might be able to help someone and I try to solve my "issues".

Anyhow ... Here's the view from the National Electrical Code in regards to wire. #12 is good up to 20A as there is no cord cap that can stand more than 20A, consider that the maximum. Here's the kick. A 20A circuit breaker will hold an 80% load all day long (16A) - 90% is really pushing it and it will probably trip the breaker in a little while depending on manufacturer.

Check this UL General-Use chart: http://www.stayonline.com/reference-circuit-ampacity.aspx

It covers proper use of extension cords by size and conductor count.

ALSO keep in mind distance equals voltage drop. Most extension cords have a NEMA 5-15 socket and plug. What does that mean? It is a standardized code but means it is a 120v 15A device. These are maximums for the device (socket or plug). MOST sockets and plugs are used at less than 80% (except in some extreme cases). Running at maximum or overloading a device leads to premature failure - or worse. NEMA 5-20 (20A) outlets are usually found in kitchens. A 5-20 plug will not fit into the standard 5-15 outlet. The visual difference is obvious on the left side (when the ground pin is facing down) there is a slit in the larger slot in the outlet. A sideways looking groove. That means the outlet is rated for 20A and will accept a 20A plug.

Distance and current = voltage drop. MANY switching power supplies can compensate for low line voltage and maintain a good output. However, they don't like that very much. Transformers do not like low voltage.

Most of my cables are SOW, SOOW or SJOW. The smallest size I use is #16/4 SJOW for the dumb RGB LED strips b/c they are a distance from the controller - DC suffers high voltage drop on long cables unless they are sized properly.

AC suffers a voltage drop (not as much as DC ) and #16 shouldn't be used for more than 10A over 50'. If you do use multiple extension cords to reach a device, consider a longer single cord and up sizing it to match the load and distance.

Looping in and out is a good idea. Like it was mentioned earlier about loads - keep the entire load under the cord rating and everything will work as it is suppose to. The up side to this is you won't be burning up anything either.

ANOTHER possibility is to use a 120/240 arrangement and a 4 conductor cord ... essentially two circuits in ONE cable. You will need access to a 120/240 single phase connection for power. Most places don't have that readily available without an electrician. Just a thought if anyone needs something like that.

Protect you and yours with the power of KNOWLEDGE.

Thanks for your time and I hope someone finds this information useful.

I’ve powered over 10kw of lighting at my own home many years ago.
I’ve done holiday lighting for years without any problems.
I really enjoy LEDs now and I have Solar Panels too. I DO NOT miss the "wife is gonna kill me" when I get the electric bill!

Make it BEAUTIFUL! Make it safe!

Happy Holidays!

Eddie
 
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