Power Pops Fanout - 1 Input with 4 Outputs: Difference between revisions

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==The Pops Power Fanout Board is a simple DC power splitter That has been LOAD Tested with Scientific Equipment.==
 
[[Image:Pixel_Pops_Picture_x2.jpg|right|Version V2]]
 
 
=='''This page is under construction'''==
==The ESPixel Pops is a variation of the original ESPixel Stick by Bill Porter==
   
   
<p>
This board is designed to take one input DC power feed and split it into 4 Main outputs & 4 accessory (low amperage) outlets.<br>
The genesis of the ''pixel stick'' controllers started with designs by Bill Porter.
The current version is v2.1.
You can read about this at Bills website found at: [http://www.billporter.info/ The mind of Bill Porter]
<br>
<br>
<br>
Each Main output on the board has its own mini-automobile style fuse that is rated up to 5 amps.<br>
The four accessory outlets share one mini-automobile style fuse. <br>
Each fuse has a LED status indicator to show if power is flowing through that fuse; therefore showing that power is present and that the fuse is good.
<br>
<br>
The ESPixel Pops is the most basic of the Pixel Stick designs.  It is a fully through hole PCB with no smd(surface mount) components.  Therefore, it is easily built by most anyone with basic soldering skills.
This variation was created by Pops Jones (ukewarrior) in order to create a form factor that would fit inside a 1" thin wall PVC tube.
<br>
<br>
There is a switch on the board that activates the function of all the status LEDs thereby allowing the user to turn off the LEDs unless needed.  This switch does NOT turn off the power feed.  It has no affect on the flow of power except to the LED indicators.
<br>
<br>
[[File:Pictureof v2-1.jpg]]
<br> <br>
<p>


From a software perspective, it is an E1.31 sACN (Streaming ACN) pixel controller that connects over a standard (802.11g/n) WiFi network.  The firmware is open source and developed in the ESP8266 Arduino environment.  It provides a web based configuration front-end and currently supports WS2811 / WS2812 pixels. (3-wire pixels)
== Finished Board ==
<br>
[[Image:Purgeme2.jpg]]
</p>
<p>


== General Features ==
[[Image:Built_unit_with_quarter_for_scale.jpg|right|small]]


</p><p>


== General Features ==
</p><p>
</p><p>
'''The Pixel Pops has these main features''' </p><p>
'''The Power Pops Fanout board has these main features''' </p><p>
'''1. It supports 3 wire pixels such as those based on 2811, 2812 and GECE chipsets'''</p><p><br>
'''1. Supports the splitting of up to 20 amps of DC power into 4 individual power outlets of up to 5 amps each.'''</p><p><br>
'''2. It runs as a wireless E 1.31 datastream from your main controller (aka show computer)'''</p><p><br>
'''2. Has four accessory outlets to power low amperage devices like a voltmeter or a fan.'''</p><p><br>
'''3. It utilizes the ESP-01 module for processing and wireless operation'''
'''3. Is a DIY board using all through hole components for easy DIY soldering.'''</p><p><br>
'''4. Was designed and LOAD TESTED to support up to 20 amps of DC power at a maximum of 28 Volts.'''
<br><br>
<br><br>
'''4. It supports both 5v and 12v pixels'''
'''5. Input & output power can be soldered directly to the board or mounted via Screw down lugs(input) and 5mm terminal blocks(outputs).'''
<br><br>
<br><br>
'''5. The board is small enough to fit inside a 1" thinwall PCB pipe with the board measuring only 24.18x33.32 mm. This type of pipe is listed as SDR-21. Lowes example: [https://www.lowes.com/pd/Charlotte-Pipe-1-in-x-10-ft-200-Sdr-21-PVC-Pipe/1000080801 Thin all 1" PCV pipe]'''<br>
'''6. Each Main power output is individually fused with a status LED indicating the state of power and the fuse.'''<br><br>
 
'''7. The four accessory outlets share one Fuse.'''<br><br>
'''8. The board measures 100x50mm'''<br><br>
'''9. Has 4 mounting holes.'''</p><p><br>
   
   
The board is professionally manufactured with 1oz copper and the holes are through plated.  This makes for easy and more error free soldering.</p><p>
The board is professionally manufactured with 1oz copper(top & bottom) and the holes are through plated.  This makes for easy and more error free soldering.</p><p>


== A LOAD TESTED Design ==


Full load testing was done with this distribution board to ensure that it could perform within the specified guidelines.<br>


All wires attach via terminal blocks. However, the use of terminal blocks is optional as the holes support direct soldering of wires.
Testing was done with genuine Mean Well power supplies in 5v, 12v, 24v and 36v, LRS-350 series. <br>
Load testing was done with TTi LD300 DC Electronic load equipment at 1a, 2a, 3a, 4a, 5a, 10a, 15a and 20a. <br>
The pdf link below documents the testing that was done using 12awg stranded copper wire for input and 14awg stranded copper wire for output.<br>


<br>
[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=38064&d=1510023884 Load Testing Report]


== Order some boards  ==


'''The Schematic can be downloaded by clicking on this link:
You can order your own boards from Holiday Lighting.  They are stock bare PCBs, Full DIY kits, and assembled units.<br>
[[Media:ESPixel_PopsSchematic.pdf]]
You can find them at: http://holiday.lighting


== Fuses ==


[[Image:5_amp_fuse.jpg|right|small]]


.
The board has four independently fused power outputs.<br>
The board is designed to use mini automobile style fuses.<br>
Each main output fuse can be any value up to 5 Amps.<br>
It is recommended that the accessory fuse be set to no more than 1 amp.


== Order your own boards  ==
== Disclaimers ==


You can order your own boards with the information given below, or you can contact: ''ukewarrior'' on the DIYC forum to see if he has any in stock.
'''USE the Power Pops Fanout board at Your Own Risk !'''</p>
'''The Power Pops Fanout board has NO warranty expressed or implied'''
<p>


The PCB industry has a standard for the definition of a PCB.  It's called a 'gerber' file.
== BOM - Bill of Materials ==
This is a set of files that have the actual instructions that tell the machines how to operate.


The Gerbers for the ESPixel Pops are found at this link: (link below is incorrect, file to be posted)
The BOM contains these parts:
[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/dynamics/attachment.php?attachmentid=416&d=1333648310 Zip File containing the SSRneon-G2-LED Gerber files]


This is all your should need to order PCBs from any PCB manufacturer.
- Two screw down power lugs for power input. The board was designed to use part B12-PCB-S from LugsDirect.com.<br> Link: https://lugsdirect.com/B12-PCB.htm<br>
- Four 5.08mm terminal blocks for power output.  These are often referred to as 5mm terminal blocks too.<br>
- Five 1/4W resistors.  The value of the resistors depends on the input voltage and LED used.  However, a value of 1.2K will work for most LEDs.<br>
- Five indicator 3mm LEDs.  Any color can be used.  The Forward Voltage and current draw of the LED factor into the resistor value combination.<br>
- Four Fuses, mini Automobile style, any combination with any value up to 5 Amps maximum, for the main power outputs.<br>
- One Fuse, mini Automobile style, with a value up to 1 Amps maximum, for the accessory power outputs.<br>
- Five Fuse Holders, specifically Keystone parts: 3544-2 or 3634-2.  Please note that 3634-2 has a mechanism to hold the fuse especially tight.  Some folks may find this annoying; therefore, 3544-2 is recommended.<br>
- One SPDT mini switch.  eg. digikey part: 450-1609-ND  or Sparkfun part: COM-09609  If you look around, you can often find these at other suppliers for much less than digikey or sparkfun.  The leads on this switch are spaced at .1" apart or 2.54mm which is the same as your typical pin header strip.<br>
- Four, two pin, pin headers, 2.54mm lead spacing.  You can also use a terminal block with 2.54mm lead spacing.


== Fuses ==
== Construction Information ==


There is no onboard fuse for the ESPixel Pops.
One specific oddity that may not be obvious is that the fuse holder board pins are not spaced evenly from side to side. Therefore, there is only one correct orientation as shown by the fuse holder outline on the board.<br>


</p><p>
The LEDs have a horizontal line above one of the mounting holes.  This is the LED cathode (usually indicated by a flat spot on the side of the LED)<br>
Since there is no onboard fuse, if a power overload should occur, the ESP-01 or the ESPixel Pops board may be damaged.
You can add an inline fuse if desired with the input power feed.
</p><p>


== Disclaimers ==
The resistors can go on in any fashion as they are not polarity sensitive. <br>
As noted on the board, the input wires should be 12, 14 or 16 AWG.  If using 16 AWG or if using stranded twisted wires, the lug manufacturer recommends the use of wire ferrules.<br>


'''USE the ESPixel Pops board at Your Own Risk !'''</p>
The only tricky part of assembling the board is the input power lugs as these have a very large surface area to cover.  Just take your time and have plenty of solder ready to use.  You should put solder on both the top and bottom of the board. Be sure to fill the mounting holes completely.<br>NOTE: be sure the screws are tight before soldering to ensure the lug body is tight against the PCB as you solder.<br>
'''The ESPixel Pops board has NO warranty expressed or implied'''
<p>


== BOM - Bill of Materials ==


The BOM contains these generically described parts:
It is suggested you solder the lugs on first, followed by the fuse holders, output terminal blocks, pin headers, resistors, the switch, and finally the LEDs.


- One ESP8266-01, this is not so much a part, but a complete subassembly.<br>
== Board Layout Diagrams ==
- One diode.  This must be: 1N4148<br>
- One female socket header, 2 rows of pins, 4 pins in each row.  This functions as the socket where you plug the ESP8266 module into<br>
- One six pin header.  Readily available 2.54mm (.1") pitch. (distance between the pins)<br>
- One tactile switch.  6mm x 6mm. Also readily available. These often have choices as to the height of the push button.<br>
- Two 1/8W or 1/4W carbon film or metal film resistors.  330 Ohms.
- One polarized Electrolytic capacitor.  Any value from 10uF to 220uF will do. 10V or above. Pay special attention to the diameter and spacing of the leads. The diameter can be no more than 5mm and the leads should be spaced at 2mm.<br>
- One MLCC monolithic capacitor. 2.54mm lead spacing.  0.1uF, any voltage over 24V. (Usually these are 50V rated) These are typically the 'yellow blob' style capacitors, verses the ones that are shaped like a flat disk.  These do NOT have a + & - indication, unlike the electrolitic capacitor noted above.<br>
- One 3.3v voltage regulator. This must be: LD1117V33, which has a TO-220 style package.<br>
- One 5.0v voltage regulator.  This part is optional and should only be installed if you are planning to drive 12v pixels.<br>
- One Mosfet.  This must be: 2N7000, which has a T0-92-3 style package<br>
- A five pin screw terminal header.  5 positions total.  This connection should have 3.81 spacing of the mounting pins.<br>


== Construction Information ==
The pdf linked below shows the hole layout dimensions.<br>
The outer dimenstion of the board is exactly 100mm x 50mm.<br>
[[Media:Power_board_hole_layout.pdf]]
<br> <br>


[[Image:Built_unit_with_quarter_for_scale.jpg|left|Version V2]]
The pdf linked below can be opened and printed for a drilling template.
Be sure to print it without any scaling. i.e. print at 1:1 by turning OFF the FIT TO PAGE or SCALE option which by default is turned on.
<br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br>
The ESPixel Pops is a pretty easy build.  The real trick is deciding how you plan to power your pixels as that will affect what you do with the board wiring.


== Wiring The ESPixel Pops ==
[[Media:Power_board_layout.pdf]]


Along the bottom of the board are 5 connection points. (as viewed from the top...)
== End User Pictures ==
The two on the left are for input power.
The three on the right are for pixel connection.


You can either solder on a terminal block or directly solder your wires to the board, or do a mix !
Here is '''Kev7274''' testing out the placement of voltmeters on one of his boards: (the alligator clips are just for testing)
The Terminal block has 3.81mm hole spacing. (The more common 5mm terminal blocks would have made the board too wide)
[[File:Kev7274.jpg]]
<br> <br>
'''pmiller''' mounted a voltmeter with through hole screws.
He could do this because the top half of the board is the positive power plane, both top and bottom.<br>  As long as you don't get into the traces for the low amperage connectors, this will work...and Bob's your Uncle!
[[File:Purgemex.jpg]]<br><br>
Braveit1 created a custom mounting plate for 3D printing and added a voltmeter to his board.<br>
Here the link to the board.  It fits harbor freight ammo cans: [https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3929289  3D print file]<br>
[[File:Distroboard.png]]

Latest revision as of 01:06, 11 November 2021

The Pops Power Fanout Board is a simple DC power splitter That has been LOAD Tested with Scientific Equipment.

This board is designed to take one input DC power feed and split it into 4 Main outputs & 4 accessory (low amperage) outlets.
The current version is v2.1.

Each Main output on the board has its own mini-automobile style fuse that is rated up to 5 amps.
The four accessory outlets share one mini-automobile style fuse.
Each fuse has a LED status indicator to show if power is flowing through that fuse; therefore showing that power is present and that the fuse is good.

There is a switch on the board that activates the function of all the status LEDs thereby allowing the user to turn off the LEDs unless needed. This switch does NOT turn off the power feed. It has no affect on the flow of power except to the LED indicators.


Finished Board


General Features

The Power Pops Fanout board has these main features

1. Supports the splitting of up to 20 amps of DC power into 4 individual power outlets of up to 5 amps each.


2. Has four accessory outlets to power low amperage devices like a voltmeter or a fan.


3. Is a DIY board using all through hole components for easy DIY soldering.


4. Was designed and LOAD TESTED to support up to 20 amps of DC power at a maximum of 28 Volts.

5. Input & output power can be soldered directly to the board or mounted via Screw down lugs(input) and 5mm terminal blocks(outputs).

6. Each Main power output is individually fused with a status LED indicating the state of power and the fuse.

7. The four accessory outlets share one Fuse.

8. The board measures 100x50mm

9. Has 4 mounting holes.


The board is professionally manufactured with 1oz copper(top & bottom) and the holes are through plated. This makes for easy and more error free soldering.

A LOAD TESTED Design

Full load testing was done with this distribution board to ensure that it could perform within the specified guidelines.

Testing was done with genuine Mean Well power supplies in 5v, 12v, 24v and 36v, LRS-350 series.
Load testing was done with TTi LD300 DC Electronic load equipment at 1a, 2a, 3a, 4a, 5a, 10a, 15a and 20a.
The pdf link below documents the testing that was done using 12awg stranded copper wire for input and 14awg stranded copper wire for output.

Load Testing Report

Order some boards

You can order your own boards from Holiday Lighting. They are stock bare PCBs, Full DIY kits, and assembled units.
You can find them at: http://holiday.lighting

Fuses

small
small

The board has four independently fused power outputs.
The board is designed to use mini automobile style fuses.
Each main output fuse can be any value up to 5 Amps.
It is recommended that the accessory fuse be set to no more than 1 amp.

Disclaimers

USE the Power Pops Fanout board at Your Own Risk !

The Power Pops Fanout board has NO warranty expressed or implied

BOM - Bill of Materials

The BOM contains these parts:

- Two screw down power lugs for power input. The board was designed to use part B12-PCB-S from LugsDirect.com.
Link: https://lugsdirect.com/B12-PCB.htm
- Four 5.08mm terminal blocks for power output. These are often referred to as 5mm terminal blocks too.
- Five 1/4W resistors. The value of the resistors depends on the input voltage and LED used. However, a value of 1.2K will work for most LEDs.
- Five indicator 3mm LEDs. Any color can be used. The Forward Voltage and current draw of the LED factor into the resistor value combination.
- Four Fuses, mini Automobile style, any combination with any value up to 5 Amps maximum, for the main power outputs.
- One Fuse, mini Automobile style, with a value up to 1 Amps maximum, for the accessory power outputs.
- Five Fuse Holders, specifically Keystone parts: 3544-2 or 3634-2. Please note that 3634-2 has a mechanism to hold the fuse especially tight. Some folks may find this annoying; therefore, 3544-2 is recommended.
- One SPDT mini switch. eg. digikey part: 450-1609-ND or Sparkfun part: COM-09609 If you look around, you can often find these at other suppliers for much less than digikey or sparkfun. The leads on this switch are spaced at .1" apart or 2.54mm which is the same as your typical pin header strip.
- Four, two pin, pin headers, 2.54mm lead spacing. You can also use a terminal block with 2.54mm lead spacing.

Construction Information

One specific oddity that may not be obvious is that the fuse holder board pins are not spaced evenly from side to side. Therefore, there is only one correct orientation as shown by the fuse holder outline on the board.

The LEDs have a horizontal line above one of the mounting holes. This is the LED cathode (usually indicated by a flat spot on the side of the LED)

The resistors can go on in any fashion as they are not polarity sensitive.

As noted on the board, the input wires should be 12, 14 or 16 AWG. If using 16 AWG or if using stranded twisted wires, the lug manufacturer recommends the use of wire ferrules.

The only tricky part of assembling the board is the input power lugs as these have a very large surface area to cover. Just take your time and have plenty of solder ready to use. You should put solder on both the top and bottom of the board. Be sure to fill the mounting holes completely.
NOTE: be sure the screws are tight before soldering to ensure the lug body is tight against the PCB as you solder.


It is suggested you solder the lugs on first, followed by the fuse holders, output terminal blocks, pin headers, resistors, the switch, and finally the LEDs.

Board Layout Diagrams

The pdf linked below shows the hole layout dimensions.
The outer dimenstion of the board is exactly 100mm x 50mm.
Media:Power_board_hole_layout.pdf

The pdf linked below can be opened and printed for a drilling template. Be sure to print it without any scaling. i.e. print at 1:1 by turning OFF the FIT TO PAGE or SCALE option which by default is turned on.

Media:Power_board_layout.pdf

End User Pictures

Here is Kev7274 testing out the placement of voltmeters on one of his boards: (the alligator clips are just for testing)

pmiller mounted a voltmeter with through hole screws. He could do this because the top half of the board is the positive power plane, both top and bottom.
As long as you don't get into the traces for the low amperage connectors, this will work...and Bob's your Uncle!

Braveit1 created a custom mounting plate for 3D printing and added a voltmeter to his board.
Here the link to the board. It fits harbor freight ammo cans: 3D print file

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