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Ren48LSDv3c

2014-04-05T18:45:59Z

Budude: /* Communications */

=Ren48LSD (v3c) Construction Manual=

'''For information on the older version of this board (v3b) please go to [[Ren48LSD]].''' This page is for the v3c version of the board.

==''What'' is the Ren48LSD?==
The Ren48LSD ('''L'''ED '''S'''trip '''D'''river) controller came about as a solution to drive Frank's LED Super Strips. Originally I used [[DCSSR|DCSSRs]] to drive them and while it's a workable solution, it tends to be somewhat bulky and requires lots of additional wiring between the controller and DCSSRs as well as to the strips themselves. Another alternative is [[Renard 24LV|Frank's Ren24LV]] which uses ULN2803 drivers. The issue with this solution is that it has limitations in how much power it can sink to the strips due to the ULN2803 package power dissipation.

The strips require up to 360mA per output (18 LEDs x 20mA) so I used an NPN bipolar transistor to drive them. The transistors support up to 600mA maximum but should be limited to 400mA per output overall due to trace/connector maximums. The transistors are fairly cheap so it makes for a simple, inexpensive solution. The controller design used the [[The_Renard_SS24_Controller_Board|Ren24SS]] as a base, using the same PIC, clocking and serial interface configuration but expanded to 6 PICs to support 48 channels or driving up to 12 strips per board. Because of this, the controller supports standard [[Renard_Firmware#Regular_Firmware|Renard protocol FW]] using RS-232/485 as well as the [[Renard_Firmware#DMX_firmware|DMX]] version. The board requires either a 5vdc well regulated supply or a good 9-24vdc supply. The input supply also drives the LED strips.

'''For information on the previous version of this board (v3b) please go to [[Ren48LSD]].''' This page is for the v3c version of the board.

==How does the Ren48LSD work?==
The Ren48LSD uses the same architecture for the logic portions of the board from the RenardSS series of boards. Sequence information is passed from a PC running Vixen or other sequencing program via an RS-232 or RS-485/DMX interface. The ST485 chips receive this information and turn into standard TTL logic levels that the PIC can understand. The PIC reads in the data and if it determines that the information corresponds to itself, it updates the dimming levels of all 8 channels. It removes this information from the stream and feeds the rest out to the next PIC and that one performs the same. This is repeated for all 6 PICs. The last PIC, PIC 6, feeds what's left of the stream out to the other ST485 chip which translates it to RS-485 levels for the next controller in the line. It is important to realize that the information is removed from the stream and that the resultant leftover stream will have all of the data offset by the 48 channels of information used by the Ren48LSD. For example, if you have two Ren48LSDs, on Vixen you would configure a single Renard/DMX plug-in with 96 channels. The first Ren48LSD consumes the first 48 channels of information leaving only 48 channels on it's outputs. The second Ren48LSD will see this incoming data as controller #1 again and assume the data is for it. This is very much different than standard hard/soft-coded DMX or LOR devices that use a set address yet still pass on the entire stream to the next controller on the line. There are advantages and disadvantages to either approach - but you should be aware of this when combining normal DMX devices before/after a Ren48LSD (or any Renard controller running DMX code).

The PICs receive the data on pin 5 and after consuming their 8 channels of data, forward the rest out of pin 6 of the PIC which in turn goes to pin 5 of the next PIC. PIC #6 or the last PIC feeds the next controller if you have one attached as mentioned above. All of the PICs are fed the same clock from the external oscillator.

The logic portions of the board require a steady +5vdc supply. This can be supplied in two ways on the Ren48LSD. If you use a well-regulated +5vdc power supply, you skip installing all of the regulator circuitry and install a jumper across the +5vdc bypass connector. This will feed the power from the DC IN 1 jack directly to the logic components. Obviously care must be taken to ONLY use a 5vdc supply - if a 12v supply is connected in this configuration, you will probably lose all of your PICs, ST485 chips and the Oscillator in one shot. If you are planning to use a 9-24vdc supply then you must install the regulator circuitry. This allows the power supplied on the DC IN 1 connector to be converted down to +5vdc for the logic components. It is important to realize that the 5v created is only used by the logic components, it is NOT sent out to the outputs of the Ren48LSD. The outputs always follow whatever you place on DC IN 1 and DC IN 2. The two connectors are separated so it is possible to run different voltages on DC IN 1 and DC IN 2 (say 5v and 12v). Here again, extreme caution must be taken to ensure you do not mix up supplies or plug your device into the wrong outputs (say a 5v strip into a 12v output). In addition, you must ensure that the two power supplies will work harmoniously with a shared ground connection since the ground plane is shared between DC IN 1 and DC IN 2.

So - now that the PICs have the updated dimming levels for all of it's channels, it enables each of its outputs using PWM or Pulse Width Modulation. It is important to grasp that the voltage levels are not controlled - it is the amount of time on and off that is varied within a small cycle of time for each update. It seems logical that to dim things you would just change the voltage from 12v to 9v for example. Instead, the voltage is on at the full 12v for x amount of time and then it is off (0v) for the y amount of time - it is not something in-between. The cycle time is controlled by the PIC in the case of the Ren48LSD. In RenardSS boards, they use a Zero-Cross (ZC) signal which is created by an opto-isolator attached to the AC line (either directly to the mains or via a transformer and in both cases through some resistors to limit the current to the opto). Since the Ren48LSD does not have any AC supplied to it, the PIC basically makes up it's own timing but it closely resembles what is seen with normal ZC usage.

The Ren48LSD uses sourced outputs and not sinked outputs like the RenardSS controllers. Why is this? Because the PIC needs to turn on a transistor and to do this, it supplies 5v on it's output which turns on the transistor (via a resistor to limit the current) which allows current to flow from the collector to the emitter of the transistor. The emitter is directly connected to ground so basically, the transistor sinks the current from the LEDs (or whatever you have attached to the output) to ground. The positive voltage from the DC power supply connects directly to the device you have attached and this completes the circuit.

==Revision History==
The main changes from the v3b version of the board are a newly designed voltage regulator circuit. It was found on the v3b that the standard LM7805 regulator would get very hot when fully loaded at 12v (the v3b only supported 5vdc or 9-12vdc input). When fully on, the device sat at it's peak temperature of about 120 degC. I came up with a few workarounds which addressed this (see the v3b page) but for the next revision, I decided to change the regulator completely. Instead of using a linear 7805 regulator, I went with the LM2575-5 switching regulator. While it requires a few more parts (a coil, diodes and low ESR filter capacitors) it does allow the v3c version of the board to go up to 24vdc at full load. The regulator stays well within the temperature specs and in normal operation does not even get warm.

You do have to decide prior to building the board whether you will be using +5vdc or 9-24vdc as your input supply source (specifically to DC IN 1). If you are going with 5vdc, then you don't need any of the regulator circuit components - in fact you should specifically leave them off the board. There is a bypass jumper block on the board that bypasses the +5v from DC IN 1 directly to the logic on the board so you must install that block and jumper that as well. If you are going with 9-24vdc then you do need to install all of the regulator circuit to provide 5v to the logic on the board (PICs, Oscillator, RS485 chips).

==Ren48LSD (v3c) Parts==
In addition to the [http://www.diyledexpress.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=3&products_id=68 PCB], you will need the following components:

<table border="1"><tr><td>'''Mouser BOM'''</td></tr>
<tr><td>Mouser PN</td><td>Description</td><td>Qty</td></tr>
<tr><td>579-PIC16F688-I/P</td><td>Microcontrollers (MCU) 7KB 256 RAM 12 I/O</td><td>6</td></tr>
<tr><td>571-1-390261-3</td><td>IC & Component Sockets 14P ECONOMY TIN</td><td>6</td></tr>
<tr><td>511-ST485BN</td><td>Buffers & Line Drivers Hi-Spd Lo Pwr Trans</td><td>2</td></tr>
<tr><td>571-1-390261-2</td><td>IC & Component Sockets 8P ECONOMY TIN</td><td>2</td></tr>
<tr><td>520-TCH1843-X</td><td>ECS-2100AX-18.432MHZ</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>863-MPS2222AG</td><td>Bipolar Transistors 600mA 75V NPN</td><td>48</td></tr>
<tr><td>78-1N5239B</td><td>Zener Diodes 9.1 Volt 0.5 Watt</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>78-1N5229B</td><td>Zener Diodes 4.3 Volt 0.5 Watt</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>863-1N5819G</td><td>Schottky (Diodes & Rectifiers) 1A 40V</td><td>2</td></tr>
<tr><td>863-LM2575TV-5G</td><td>Switching Converters, Regulators & Controllers 5V 1A PWR SW REG</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>532-577102B00</td><td>Heatsinks TO-220 HORIZ/VERT SLIM CHANNEL STYLE</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>604-WP7113ID</td><td>Standard LED - Through Hole HI EFF RED DIFFUSED</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>581-SA105E104MAR</td><td>Multilayer Ceramic Capacitors (MLCC) - Leaded 50volts 0.1uF 20% Z5U</td><td>9</td></tr>
<tr><td>667-ELC-18B331L</td><td>Power Inductors 330UH RADIAL COIL CHOKE</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>140-RXJ331M1CBK1012P</td><td>Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - Leaded 16V 330uF 105C 10x12.5 mm</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>140-RXJ101M1HBK1016P</td><td>Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - Leaded 50V 100uF 105C 10x16 mm</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>299-680-RC</td><td>Carbon Film Resistors 680ohms</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>299-120-RC</td><td>Carbon Film Resistors 120ohms</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>299-27K-RC</td><td>Carbon Film Resistors 27Kohms</td><td>2</td></tr>
<tr><td>299-1K-RC</td><td>Carbon Film Resistors 1.0Kohms</td><td>2</td></tr>
<tr><td>299-470-RC</td><td>Carbon Film Resistors 470ohms</td><td>48</td></tr>
<tr><td>299-10K-RC</td><td>Carbon Film Resistors 10Kohms</td><td>6</td></tr>
<tr><td>571-5556416-1</td><td>Telecom & Ethernet Connectors 8 PCB TOP ENTRY</td><td>14</td></tr>
<tr><td>571-7969492</td><td>Terminal Blocks 5.08MM VERTICAL 2P wire protector</td><td>3</td></tr>
<tr><td>571-5-146281-2</td><td>Headers & Wire Housings 2 P HEADER GOLD 30u single row</td><td>2</td></tr>
<tr><td>649-65474-002LF</td><td>Headers & Wire Housings SHUNT TIN</td><td>1</td></tr>
</table>

[http://www.mouser.com:80/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=76c8f3ed18 Click here for Mouser Direct Project BOM]

Most of the components are not overly critical and some can be omitted in certain
cases. The electrolytic capacitors must only be subsituted with low-ESR versions only. Failure to do so could result in instability in the regulation circuit. If you are using a well regulated 5vdc supply, the voltage regulator, 1N5819 diodes (2), 330uH coil, and 100uf capacitor should not be installed. This will require a jumper to be placed across the +5vdc bypass terminal block which effectively shunts DC IN 1 directly to the board logic.

The BOM is available from [http://www.diyledexpress.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=3 DIYLEDExpress.com] 

'''Boards/Kits purchased after Aug 2013 are a new batch that has the correction on pin 7.''' 

'''PRE Aug 2013 Boards Only -- NOTE -- If you purchased a Ren48LSD board from diyledexpress then you should know that there was a slight mistake on the board files. Pin 7 of ALL the RJ45 outputs is not connected to anything. To use that pin, you must run a small jumper from pin 5 to pin 7 or simply blob up some solder between the two pins. This will ensure the common V+ is distributed properly to all four odd pins on the outputs.'''

'''You can tell if you have one of these boards by inspecting the underside of the board''' 
[[File:Ren48LSD-defect.png|500px]]

==Building the Ren48LSD==

The Ren48LSD requires a fair bit of soldering so take your time and ensure you
install the components in the correct orientation when required. Start by sorting
the components by type and values. Look over the PCB before starting noting the
location of the various components. Follow the standard procedure of installing
the lowest profile parts first and ending up with the tallest.

[[File:Ren48LSD-v3c-Construction-0.png]]

1. Install the six 10k resistors near each PIC

[[File:Ren48LSD-v3c-Build-01a.jpg|850px]]

2. Install the two 1k resistors near the 485 chips

[[File:Ren48LSD-v3c-Build-02a.jpg|850px]]

3. Install the two 27k resistors near the 485 chips

[[File:Ren48LSD-v3c-Build-03a.jpg|850px]]

4. Install the one 120 resistor near the 485 chips

[[File:Ren48LSD-v3c-Build-04a.jpg|850px]]

5. Install the one 680 resistor near the LED

[[File:Ren48LSD-v3c-Build-05a.jpg|850px]]

6. Install the 1N5229 diode near the 485 chips – note the correct orientation - the band on the diode goes towards the top of the board in the square hole.

[[File:Ren48LSD-v3c-Build-06a.jpg|850px]]

7. Install the 1N5239 diode near the 485 chips – note the correct orientation - the band on the diode goes towards the top of the board in the square hole.

[[File:Ren48LSD-v3c-Build-07a.jpg|850px]]

8. Install the two 1N5819 diodes near the voltage regulator '''(Do not install for 5vdc input)''' – note the correct orientation - the diode closest to DCIN1 has the band on the diode facing down and in the square hole, the diode closest to the choke has the band on the diode facing right and in the square hole.

[[File:Ren48LSD-v3c-Build-08a.jpg|850px]]

9. Install all forty-eight 470 ohm resistors doing 4-8 at a time.

[[File:Ren48LSD-v3c-Build-09a.jpg|850px]]

10. Install the nine decoupling capacitors near the IC sockets and oscillator. Note that the silkscreen says ".01uF" - in fact they are 0.1uF (100nF).

[[File:Ren48LSD-v3c-Build-10a.jpg|850px]]

11. Install the six 14-pin PIC chip sockets - note the correct orientation - the top 3 sockets have the notch facing towards the left, and the bottom 3 sockets have the notch facing the right.

[[File:Ren48LSD-v3c-Build-11a.jpg|850px]]

12. Install the two 8-pin 485 chip sockets - note the correct orientation - the notch faces to the right side of the board towards the PICs.

[[File:Ren48LSD-v3c-Build-12a.jpg|850px]]

13. Install the 18.432MHz oscillator – note the correct orientation - the package has one square corner (and a dot) and that goes into the square hole on the board

[[File:Ren48LSD-v3c-Build-13a.jpg|850px]]

14. Install the 48 transistors – note the correct orientation – the emitter is nearest the PICs, base in the middle and collector near the RJ45 jacks. The legs of the transistors will need to be bent slightly to fit the holes. The middle leg will end up being out in front of the flat side of the transistor.

[[File:Ren48LSD-v3c-Build-14a.jpg|850px]]

15. Install the two 2-pin shunt jumpers

[[File:Ren48LSD-v3c-Build-15a.jpg|850px]]

16. Install the LED – note correct orientation - the flat side of the LED faces the bottom of the board and the shorter leg goes into the square hole.

[[File:Ren48LSD-v3c-Build-16a.jpg|850px]]

17. Install the DC input terminal blocks – note correct orientation - have the side where the power wires will be inserted facing to the right.

[[File:Ren48LSD-v3c-Build-17a.jpg|850px]]

18. Install the +5vdc bypass block '''(Install for 5vdc input)'''

[[File:Ren48LSD-v3c-Build-18a.jpg|850px]]

Note that if you are using a regulated 5vdc power supply for your input, you should omit installing most of the regulator circuitry.

19. Install the LM2575 regulator '''(Do not install for 5vdc input)''' - note correct orientation - pin 1 is denoted by the square pad - the odd number pins are the pins farthest away from the back

[[File:Ren48LSD-v3c-Build-19a.jpg|850px]]

20. Install the 100uF/50v capacitor '''(Do not install for 5vdc input)''' – note correct orientation - the capacitor has a stripe on the side denoting the negative leg that goes in the round hole.

[[File:Ren48LSD-v3c-Build-20a.jpg|850px]]

21. Install the 330uF/16v capacitor – note correct orientation - the capacitor has a stripe on the side denoting the negative leg that goes in the round hole.

[[File:Ren48LSD-v3c-Build-21a.jpg|850px]]

22. Mount the 5v regulator heat sink if you installed the regulator – use a small amount of heat sink compound

23. Install the choke coil - there is no polarity, it can be installed in either direction '''(Do not install for 5vdc input)'''

[[File:Ren48LSD-v3c-Build-22.jpg|850px]]

24. Install the fourteen RJ45 jacks – note that side-entry jacks can be substituted

[[File:Ren48LSD-v3c-Build-23a.jpg|850px]]

Congratulations! That completes the construction of the Ren48LSD!

==Initial Testing==
The first thing you will want to do in any PCB construction project is to double check that you have all components installed and in the proper orientation. You will then want to inspect the board for any cold/bridged solder joints. Take your time with this step and go over each and every joint.

If you have any of the IC's installed - remove them now. Connect your power supply to the “DC IN 1” - it supplies power to controller portion of the board as well as strip outputs 1-6. “DC IN 2” is a separate input to drive strips 7-12. Note that the ground is shared between the two inputs. If you are using a well regulated +5vdc power supply as your power input, the regulator circuit should not be installed. However, you must manually bypass this by placing a jumper wire between the +5vdc bypass terminal block. Turn on the supply and verify the power LED lights up. Verify you have 5v between pins 1 and 14 on each PIC socket as well as between pins 5 and 8 on the 485 chip sockets. Install all of the IC's if this passes.

==Programming the PIC controllers==
The Ren48LSD does not supply or use a ZeroCross input and therefore the Renard firmware (either Renard or DMX protocol) must be configured for DC/PWM
operation. In addition, if you are using the DMX firmware, you may want to set the initial starting address but generally, this can be left at '1' for all PICs since the code is self-addressing. Also – like the ULN2803 drivers, the transistors invert the output so the firmware uses positive outputs.

===Renard Protocol===
Obtain the standard Renard firmware [http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/images/d/d3/Renard-20071229.asm here:]

Make the following changes:

#define PWM_build 1 – change from '0'
#define DC_build 1 – change from '0'
#define CTR_LOCKOUT 1 – change from '15'
;#define OUTPUT_NEGATIVE_TRUE – comment this out

Compile the code into hex code and program all six PICs with the same code. A standard version of the code with the settings above has been compiled already for you in the File Library available [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/dynamics/attachment.php?attachmentid=207&d=1280420686 here].

===Renard-DMX Protocol===
Obtain the DMX Renard firmware from [http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/images/e/ea/Renard-dmx-20080814.asm here:]

#define DC_build 1 – change from '0'
#define CTR_LOCKOUT 0 – change from '40'
#define SINK_map 0x00 – change from '0xFF'

If you want to change the DMX starting address then alter it below – this is only required on the first PIC in the chain. If you have multiple Ren48LSD controllers, you can leave the second/subsequent PICs at '1' and they will automatically start off where the last PIC left off.

#define DMX_START_ADDRESS 1

Compile the code into hex code and program all six PICs with the same code (unless using a starting address). A standard version of the code with the settings above has been compiled already for you in the File Library available [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/dynamics/attachment.php?attachmentid=206&d=1280420686 here].

Whichever firmware you choose, install the flashed PICs into the sockets noting the correct orientation. Also install the two 485 chips into their sockets noting the correct orientation. You are now ready for final testing.

==Final Testing==
I chose not to design in the diagnostic LEDs as those used on the RenSS series of controllers. The design is fairly straight-forward and as long as you are sure of the voltage inputs and the PICs are flashed properly you should not have any issues if your soldering is good.

If you are using RS232, you should install the shunt on the "RS232" header which shorts pin 5 of the RJ45-IN connector to ground for proper RS232 operation. The wiring is the same as the RenardSS series so you can follow the cabling requiremnents for that.

As the Renard controller variations do not use bussed DMX it's not critical to install the DMX termination shunt if you are only using Renard controllers. This is because they are using point-to-point configurations. However - if this particular controller is at the end of a line of other normal (bussed) DMX devices, you should install the shunt to properly terminate the bus.

I'm assuming at this point that you have built one or more of the LED SuperStrips to test with. If not - - well - - do it... Note that the strips have one caveat – I have found that the LED colors go in Red, Blue, Green and White order – not Red, Green, Blue and White order. The RJ45 outputs are as follows:

#Common +DC
#Red Ground
#Common +DC
#Blue Ground
#Common +DC
#Green Ground
#Common +DC
#White Ground

What does this mean to you? Well – if you use standard straight-thru RJ45/Ethernet cables, the color order will be RBGW channel order in Vixen so if you want to use an RGBW order, you'll need to change the channel order in Vixen. The other alternative (and the way I do it) is to swap pins 4 and 6 at one end of the RJ45 cable. I did this because I thought it made more sense to keep the natural pin order versus color order. Note that pins 1, 3, 5 and 7 are tied together both on the PCB as well as the strips – there is no way to have separate +DC runs with the strips.

Connect the Ren48LSD to your PC using standard wiring practices as on the Wiki for other Renard controllers. Develop a Vixen sequence to turn on/off each channel in groups of four using the appropriate Renard/DMX plug-in. Channels 1, 5, 9, etc should have the same programming but only have 1 channel in the group (1,2,3,4) on at a time. This helps ensure you have unique channel
addressing from each RJ45 output.

With the sequence running, plug in a strip into each RJ45 and ensure each color turns on in order (remember that the B & G colors are swapped). Once that is complete you change the on/off to ramp up/downs to verify dimming operation. Finally, you can perform a full load test with 12 strips installed.

The Ren48LSD can be used to drive other devices as well of course. The MightyMini floods can be wired using normal RGBW wiring since the MM end of the cable goes into terminal blocks versus an RJ45 jack. Another popular flood is the ChristmasOnManor Rainbow Flood. This is an RGB (no white) flood so it only uses 3 channels. The wiring uses pins 2, 4 and 8 to drive Red, Green and Blue. Note that pin 6 - or the 3rd channel is not used here. You have a few choices - in Vixen simply skip that channel, or if you really want to use that channel, you will need to do some creative cabling or not use the RJ45 jacks at all and wire the 3 channels directly to the board. You can also alter the code in the PIC to only use 6 channels but this probably isn't worth the effort of changing the code.

==TroubleShooting==
So - you've built your new Ren48LSD, connected it up to your computer and tried a quick sequence and nothing happens! There are several checks to perform in order:

===Visual Inspection===
The very first step involves a close visual inspection of the board. Double check that you have the correct component in the correct location and in the correct orientation. Look at every single solder connection and if some are not shiny or look suspect - reflow them to be sure.
===Power===
Measure across pins 1 and 14 on all PIC sockets (U1 -> U6) - it should read 5v

Measure across pins 5 and 8 on both RS-485 sockets (U7, U8) - it should read 5v

If you do not measure 5v and you are using the "+5VDC BYPASS" feature, then ensure your supply is actually providing 5v at the "DC IN 1" terminal block.

If you do not measure 5v and you are using the regulator circuit, then ensure you are providing at least 7.5vdc (and up to 24vdc) into the "DC IN 1" terminal block from your supply. If that's OK, then inspect the soldering all around the regulator, coil, diodes and filter capacitors on the right hand side of the board. Ensure the filter capacitors, diodes and regulator were installed with the correct orientation.

===PIC Programming===
Reflash your PICs with the .hex file from this Wiki page or the File Library - perform a 'Verify' to be sure it's not blank
===Clocking===
With all six PICs installed, measure the voltage from pin 14 (gnd) to pin 2 (OSC) on all PICs - it should read around 2.5v (+/- 0.3v). If it appears to be stuck at 0 or 5v, then you probably have a soldering issue, the oscillator was installed with the incorrect orientation or the oscillator is bad. There should be 5v between the upper left and lower right pins on the oscillator (as viewed from the top of the board shown above).

Another possible reason for seeing close to 5v on pin 2 is that none of the PICs have been programmed properly. This is due to no loading of the output from the oscillator. Before replacing the oscillator, re-verify that the PICs have been programmed.

===Communications===
From Vixen, ensure you have the appropriate plug-in selected and configured. If you are using Renard/Serial code, you should have the "Renard Dimmer (modified)" selected using Protocol Version 1 and the correct COM port selected for your serial port. Ensure the baud rate is 57600 (if using the standard image), 8-bits, no parity, no stop bits and that it matches the port settings in the Windows Control Panel (Device Manager) as well. Ensure your cabling is correct from the Wiki documentation for Renard (it is the same as the RenSS series). Ensure the "RS232" jumper is ON and that the "TERM" jumper is OFF.

If you are using Renard/DMX code, you should have either the "Enttec Open DMX" or "Enttec DMX USB Pro" plug-in selected (unless you are using E1.31 which is beyond this document). Ensure your DMX dongle is seen as a COM port (unplug/plug in to be sure while Vixen is not up) and the plug-in is configured to match the port number. The baud rate settings are not used for DMX (it's always 250Kbps). If using the Enttec Open dongle, you need to configure the DMX Add-In as well so that the data is streamed to the device.Ensure your cabling is correct from the Wiki documentation for Renard (it is the same as the RenSS series). Ensure the "RS232" jumper is OFF. The "TERM" jumper will probably make no difference whether it's on or off but you can try both ways to see if it makes any difference.

Note that it's not really within the scope of this document to troubleshoot Vixen/dongle/cabling issues - please go through some of the Wiki documentation and if at all possible, try to confirm on a working piece of equipment before troubleshooting something that isn't broken to begin with. It's assumed at this point that to the best of your knowledge that everything up to the "IN" jack is in working order.

Configure a 200 channel, 10 second Vixen sequence with ALL channels ON for the first 5 seconds and ALL channels OFF for the last 5 seconds. Measure the voltage at pin 5 on PIC #1 (U1) with the same sequence looping (from ground). It should be alternating between 1.2v and 2.7v (do not worry about the exact voltages - just that there is a 1-1.5v swing) and not be stuck at one or the other. If it appears stuck, then inspect the "IN" RS-485 chip at U7 (and the entire path from it to pin 5 on PIC #1/U1 pin 5) and ensure there are no bent pins (including the RJ45 jack itself), cold solder joints. Swap the two chips at U7 and U8 ("OUT" RS-485) to see if that resolves the issue. If the failure is in-between channels, then perform the same check on pin 5 on all PICs. For PICs #2-6, pin 5 is fed from pin 6 on the preceding PIC. In other words PIC 1, pin 6 feeds PIC 2, pin 5 and down the line so it could be an issue with the preceding PIC. Swap PICs around to see if that helps - otherwise it is probably a soldering issue.

If the problem is with a daisy-chained controller FROM this Ren48LSD, then inspect the RS-485 "OUT" chip closely at U8 for bent pins, solder issues, etc. Check the output RJ45 jack at J14 for crossed pins. Swap the RS-485 chip between U7 and U8 to see if that helps. Note that ALL output from the Ren48LSD is at RS-485 levels so the daisy-chained controller should not have the RS-232 jumper enabled.

===Output Drivers===
It's assumed at this point that you have checked that a sequence can drive the PIC outputs properly between 0 and 5v OK. With the PIC(s) removed and power on, connect a ''known good device'' (flood, RGB strip, etc) to the output socket(s) in question.

Use a piece of hookup wire and connect the wire from pin 1 to the following pins:

:Pin 3 - channel 1/9/17/25/33/41
:Pin 13 - channel 2/10/18/26/34/42
:Pin 12 - channel 3/11/19/27/35/43
:Pin 11 - channel 4/12/20/28/36/44
:Pin 10 - channel 5/13/21/29/37/45
:Pin 9 - channel 6/14/22/30/38/46
:Pin 8 - channel 7/15/23/31/39/47
:Pin 7 - channel 8/16/24/32/40/48

After connecting the wire to the output pins, the device should turn on. If it does not, then it's possible the output driver (transistor) is bad. Check the path from the PIC output pin you are testing through the 470 ohm resistor and to the base of the transistor in question. The nomenclature (name) of the transistor matches the channel number so "Q23" is for channel 23. Replacements may have been included with your kit or you can get them at RadioShack - most MPS2222a, PN2222A or 2N3904 types can be subsituted. If you have multiple transistors bad, then you should investigate how this happened before replacing the transistors since there's a good chance they will simply blow again.

==FAQ==

Q1: What if I only have 6 strips and won't be using ports 7-12?

A1: Well - you're in luck! Next to PIC #3 and PIC #6 is a via hole that will bypass PICs #4 - #6 if you install a wire between them. Note that this is only necessary if you are planning to daisy-chain another board from this one. This effectively makes this a Ren24LSD. If you are not going to daisy-chain another board, you can leave it off as well as the RS-485 output chip. Personally, I think this is false economy since you'll have to dig the parts up if you change your mind and want to run a board off this one. In either case, you certainly save time and money by not installing the PICs, sockets, transistors, resistors and output connectors for strips 7-12 if you don't have them.

[[File:Ren48LSD-v3c-Construction-Bypass.png]]

Q2: Can I use standard DIY SSRs with the Ren48LSD?

A2: You can use DC SSRs but not AC SSRs. AC SSRs cannot be used as they require synchronization to the AC power line using a zero-cross signal from the controller. The Ren48LSD does not have an AC present since it only uses a DC power supply. While it can turn on/off/dim the AC SSR, since it is not synced the TRIACs will turn on/off at the wrong times during the AC cycle and it will look terrible. DC SSRs can be used just fine - however there is one caveat in that pin 7 is not connected to ground as with other controllers (it is in fact tied to +DC). This means that the 'active' indicator used on most DC SSRs (indicating it is connected to a controller) will not work correctly. This does not affect operation at all however so they can be used with on/off/dimming just fine.

----

==Schematic==

'''NOTE - the schematic below has an error on the input circuitry but the board itself is correct. Use the RenSS (any) schematic for the communication circuitry for now.'''

Here is the schematic drawing for the Ren48LSD v3c in PDF format - [[File:Ren48LSD-v3c-Schematic.pdf]]

----
--[[User:Budude|Budude]] 03:08, 4 June 2010 (UTC)

[[Category:DIYC Controllers]]
[[Category:Renard]]
[[Category:Renard 48LSD]]
[[Category:DIYC Index]]

Ren48LSDv3c

2014-03-11T03:36:44Z

Budude: /* Ren48LSD (v3c) Parts */

=Ren48LSD (v3c) Construction Manual=

'''For information on the older version of this board (v3b) please go to [[Ren48LSD]].''' This page is for the v3c version of the board.

==''What'' is the Ren48LSD?==
The Ren48LSD ('''L'''ED '''S'''trip '''D'''river) controller came about as a solution to drive Frank's LED Super Strips. Originally I used [[DCSSR|DCSSRs]] to drive them and while it's a workable solution, it tends to be somewhat bulky and requires lots of additional wiring between the controller and DCSSRs as well as to the strips themselves. Another alternative is [[Renard 24LV|Frank's Ren24LV]] which uses ULN2803 drivers. The issue with this solution is that it has limitations in how much power it can sink to the strips due to the ULN2803 package power dissipation.

The strips require up to 360mA per output (18 LEDs x 20mA) so I used an NPN bipolar transistor to drive them. The transistors support up to 600mA maximum but should be limited to 400mA per output overall due to trace/connector maximums. The transistors are fairly cheap so it makes for a simple, inexpensive solution. The controller design used the [[The_Renard_SS24_Controller_Board|Ren24SS]] as a base, using the same PIC, clocking and serial interface configuration but expanded to 6 PICs to support 48 channels or driving up to 12 strips per board. Because of this, the controller supports standard [[Renard_Firmware#Regular_Firmware|Renard protocol FW]] using RS-232/485 as well as the [[Renard_Firmware#DMX_firmware|DMX]] version. The board requires either a 5vdc well regulated supply or a good 9-24vdc supply. The input supply also drives the LED strips.

'''For information on the previous version of this board (v3b) please go to [[Ren48LSD]].''' This page is for the v3c version of the board.

==How does the Ren48LSD work?==
The Ren48LSD uses the same architecture for the logic portions of the board from the RenardSS series of boards. Sequence information is passed from a PC running Vixen or other sequencing program via an RS-232 or RS-485/DMX interface. The ST485 chips receive this information and turn into standard TTL logic levels that the PIC can understand. The PIC reads in the data and if it determines that the information corresponds to itself, it updates the dimming levels of all 8 channels. It removes this information from the stream and feeds the rest out to the next PIC and that one performs the same. This is repeated for all 6 PICs. The last PIC, PIC 6, feeds what's left of the stream out to the other ST485 chip which translates it to RS-485 levels for the next controller in the line. It is important to realize that the information is removed from the stream and that the resultant leftover stream will have all of the data offset by the 48 channels of information used by the Ren48LSD. For example, if you have two Ren48LSDs, on Vixen you would configure a single Renard/DMX plug-in with 96 channels. The first Ren48LSD consumes the first 48 channels of information leaving only 48 channels on it's outputs. The second Ren48LSD will see this incoming data as controller #1 again and assume the data is for it. This is very much different than standard hard/soft-coded DMX or LOR devices that use a set address yet still pass on the entire stream to the next controller on the line. There are advantages and disadvantages to either approach - but you should be aware of this when combining normal DMX devices before/after a Ren48LSD (or any Renard controller running DMX code).

The PICs receive the data on pin 5 and after consuming their 8 channels of data, forward the rest out of pin 6 of the PIC which in turn goes to pin 5 of the next PIC. PIC #6 or the last PIC feeds the next controller if you have one attached as mentioned above. All of the PICs are fed the same clock from the external oscillator.

The logic portions of the board require a steady +5vdc supply. This can be supplied in two ways on the Ren48LSD. If you use a well-regulated +5vdc power supply, you skip installing all of the regulator circuitry and install a jumper across the +5vdc bypass connector. This will feed the power from the DC IN 1 jack directly to the logic components. Obviously care must be taken to ONLY use a 5vdc supply - if a 12v supply is connected in this configuration, you will probably lose all of your PICs, ST485 chips and the Oscillator in one shot. If you are planning to use a 9-24vdc supply then you must install the regulator circuitry. This allows the power supplied on the DC IN 1 connector to be converted down to +5vdc for the logic components. It is important to realize that the 5v created is only used by the logic components, it is NOT sent out to the outputs of the Ren48LSD. The outputs always follow whatever you place on DC IN 1 and DC IN 2. The two connectors are separated so it is possible to run different voltages on DC IN 1 and DC IN 2 (say 5v and 12v). Here again, extreme caution must be taken to ensure you do not mix up supplies or plug your device into the wrong outputs (say a 5v strip into a 12v output). In addition, you must ensure that the two power supplies will work harmoniously with a shared ground connection since the ground plane is shared between DC IN 1 and DC IN 2.

So - now that the PICs have the updated dimming levels for all of it's channels, it enables each of its outputs using PWM or Pulse Width Modulation. It is important to grasp that the voltage levels are not controlled - it is the amount of time on and off that is varied within a small cycle of time for each update. It seems logical that to dim things you would just change the voltage from 12v to 9v for example. Instead, the voltage is on at the full 12v for x amount of time and then it is off (0v) for the y amount of time - it is not something in-between. The cycle time is controlled by the PIC in the case of the Ren48LSD. In RenardSS boards, they use a Zero-Cross (ZC) signal which is created by an opto-isolator attached to the AC line (either directly to the mains or via a transformer and in both cases through some resistors to limit the current to the opto). Since the Ren48LSD does not have any AC supplied to it, the PIC basically makes up it's own timing but it closely resembles what is seen with normal ZC usage.

The Ren48LSD uses sourced outputs and not sinked outputs like the RenardSS controllers. Why is this? Because the PIC needs to turn on a transistor and to do this, it supplies 5v on it's output which turns on the transistor (via a resistor to limit the current) which allows current to flow from the collector to the emitter of the transistor. The emitter is directly connected to ground so basically, the transistor sinks the current from the LEDs (or whatever you have attached to the output) to ground. The positive voltage from the DC power supply connects directly to the device you have attached and this completes the circuit.

==Revision History==
The main changes from the v3b version of the board are a newly designed voltage regulator circuit. It was found on the v3b that the standard LM7805 regulator would get very hot when fully loaded at 12v (the v3b only supported 5vdc or 9-12vdc input). When fully on, the device sat at it's peak temperature of about 120 degC. I came up with a few workarounds which addressed this (see the v3b page) but for the next revision, I decided to change the regulator completely. Instead of using a linear 7805 regulator, I went with the LM2575-5 switching regulator. While it requires a few more parts (a coil, diodes and low ESR filter capacitors) it does allow the v3c version of the board to go up to 24vdc at full load. The regulator stays well within the temperature specs and in normal operation does not even get warm.

You do have to decide prior to building the board whether you will be using +5vdc or 9-24vdc as your input supply source (specifically to DC IN 1). If you are going with 5vdc, then you don't need any of the regulator circuit components - in fact you should specifically leave them off the board. There is a bypass jumper block on the board that bypasses the +5v from DC IN 1 directly to the logic on the board so you must install that block and jumper that as well. If you are going with 9-24vdc then you do need to install all of the regulator circuit to provide 5v to the logic on the board (PICs, Oscillator, RS485 chips).

==Ren48LSD (v3c) Parts==
In addition to the [http://www.diyledexpress.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=3&products_id=68 PCB], you will need the following components:

<table border="1"><tr><td>'''Mouser BOM'''</td></tr>
<tr><td>Mouser PN</td><td>Description</td><td>Qty</td></tr>
<tr><td>579-PIC16F688-I/P</td><td>Microcontrollers (MCU) 7KB 256 RAM 12 I/O</td><td>6</td></tr>
<tr><td>571-1-390261-3</td><td>IC & Component Sockets 14P ECONOMY TIN</td><td>6</td></tr>
<tr><td>511-ST485BN</td><td>Buffers & Line Drivers Hi-Spd Lo Pwr Trans</td><td>2</td></tr>
<tr><td>571-1-390261-2</td><td>IC & Component Sockets 8P ECONOMY TIN</td><td>2</td></tr>
<tr><td>520-TCH1843-X</td><td>ECS-2100AX-18.432MHZ</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>863-MPS2222AG</td><td>Bipolar Transistors 600mA 75V NPN</td><td>48</td></tr>
<tr><td>78-1N5239B</td><td>Zener Diodes 9.1 Volt 0.5 Watt</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>78-1N5229B</td><td>Zener Diodes 4.3 Volt 0.5 Watt</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>863-1N5819G</td><td>Schottky (Diodes & Rectifiers) 1A 40V</td><td>2</td></tr>
<tr><td>863-LM2575TV-5G</td><td>Switching Converters, Regulators & Controllers 5V 1A PWR SW REG</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>532-577102B00</td><td>Heatsinks TO-220 HORIZ/VERT SLIM CHANNEL STYLE</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>604-WP7113ID</td><td>Standard LED - Through Hole HI EFF RED DIFFUSED</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>581-SA105E104MAR</td><td>Multilayer Ceramic Capacitors (MLCC) - Leaded 50volts 0.1uF 20% Z5U</td><td>9</td></tr>
<tr><td>667-ELC-18B331L</td><td>Power Inductors 330UH RADIAL COIL CHOKE</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>140-RXJ331M1CBK1012P</td><td>Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - Leaded 16V 330uF 105C 10x12.5 mm</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>140-RXJ101M1HBK1016P</td><td>Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - Leaded 50V 100uF 105C 10x16 mm</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>299-680-RC</td><td>Carbon Film Resistors 680ohms</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>299-120-RC</td><td>Carbon Film Resistors 120ohms</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>299-27K-RC</td><td>Carbon Film Resistors 27Kohms</td><td>2</td></tr>
<tr><td>299-1K-RC</td><td>Carbon Film Resistors 1.0Kohms</td><td>2</td></tr>
<tr><td>299-470-RC</td><td>Carbon Film Resistors 470ohms</td><td>48</td></tr>
<tr><td>299-10K-RC</td><td>Carbon Film Resistors 10Kohms</td><td>6</td></tr>
<tr><td>571-5556416-1</td><td>Telecom & Ethernet Connectors 8 PCB TOP ENTRY</td><td>14</td></tr>
<tr><td>571-7969492</td><td>Terminal Blocks 5.08MM VERTICAL 2P wire protector</td><td>3</td></tr>
<tr><td>571-5-146281-2</td><td>Headers & Wire Housings 2 P HEADER GOLD 30u single row</td><td>2</td></tr>
<tr><td>649-65474-002LF</td><td>Headers & Wire Housings SHUNT TIN</td><td>1</td></tr>
</table>

[http://www.mouser.com:80/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=76c8f3ed18 Click here for Mouser Direct Project BOM]

Most of the components are not overly critical and some can be omitted in certain
cases. The electrolytic capacitors must only be subsituted with low-ESR versions only. Failure to do so could result in instability in the regulation circuit. If you are using a well regulated 5vdc supply, the voltage regulator, 1N5819 diodes (2), 330uH coil, and 100uf capacitor should not be installed. This will require a jumper to be placed across the +5vdc bypass terminal block which effectively shunts DC IN 1 directly to the board logic.

The BOM is available from [http://www.diyledexpress.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=3 DIYLEDExpress.com] 

'''Boards/Kits purchased after Aug 2013 are a new batch that has the correction on pin 7.''' 

'''PRE Aug 2013 Boards Only -- NOTE -- If you purchased a Ren48LSD board from diyledexpress then you should know that there was a slight mistake on the board files. Pin 7 of ALL the RJ45 outputs is not connected to anything. To use that pin, you must run a small jumper from pin 5 to pin 7 or simply blob up some solder between the two pins. This will ensure the common V+ is distributed properly to all four odd pins on the outputs.'''

'''You can tell if you have one of these boards by inspecting the underside of the board''' 
[[File:Ren48LSD-defect.png|500px]]

==Building the Ren48LSD==

The Ren48LSD requires a fair bit of soldering so take your time and ensure you
install the components in the correct orientation when required. Start by sorting
the components by type and values. Look over the PCB before starting noting the
location of the various components. Follow the standard procedure of installing
the lowest profile parts first and ending up with the tallest.

[[File:Ren48LSD-v3c-Construction-0.png]]

1. Install the six 10k resistors near each PIC

[[File:Ren48LSD-v3c-Build-01a.jpg|850px]]

2. Install the two 1k resistors near the 485 chips

[[File:Ren48LSD-v3c-Build-02a.jpg|850px]]

3. Install the two 27k resistors near the 485 chips

[[File:Ren48LSD-v3c-Build-03a.jpg|850px]]

4. Install the one 120 resistor near the 485 chips

[[File:Ren48LSD-v3c-Build-04a.jpg|850px]]

5. Install the one 680 resistor near the LED

[[File:Ren48LSD-v3c-Build-05a.jpg|850px]]

6. Install the 1N5229 diode near the 485 chips – note the correct orientation - the band on the diode goes towards the top of the board in the square hole.

[[File:Ren48LSD-v3c-Build-06a.jpg|850px]]

7. Install the 1N5239 diode near the 485 chips – note the correct orientation - the band on the diode goes towards the top of the board in the square hole.

[[File:Ren48LSD-v3c-Build-07a.jpg|850px]]

8. Install the two 1N5819 diodes near the voltage regulator '''(Do not install for 5vdc input)''' – note the correct orientation - the diode closest to DCIN1 has the band on the diode facing down and in the square hole, the diode closest to the choke has the band on the diode facing right and in the square hole.

[[File:Ren48LSD-v3c-Build-08a.jpg|850px]]

9. Install all forty-eight 470 ohm resistors doing 4-8 at a time.

[[File:Ren48LSD-v3c-Build-09a.jpg|850px]]

10. Install the nine decoupling capacitors near the IC sockets and oscillator. Note that the silkscreen says ".01uF" - in fact they are 0.1uF (100nF).

[[File:Ren48LSD-v3c-Build-10a.jpg|850px]]

11. Install the six 14-pin PIC chip sockets - note the correct orientation - the top 3 sockets have the notch facing towards the left, and the bottom 3 sockets have the notch facing the right.

[[File:Ren48LSD-v3c-Build-11a.jpg|850px]]

12. Install the two 8-pin 485 chip sockets - note the correct orientation - the notch faces to the right side of the board towards the PICs.

[[File:Ren48LSD-v3c-Build-12a.jpg|850px]]

13. Install the 18.432MHz oscillator – note the correct orientation - the package has one square corner (and a dot) and that goes into the square hole on the board

[[File:Ren48LSD-v3c-Build-13a.jpg|850px]]

14. Install the 48 transistors – note the correct orientation – the emitter is nearest the PICs, base in the middle and collector near the RJ45 jacks. The legs of the transistors will need to be bent slightly to fit the holes. The middle leg will end up being out in front of the flat side of the transistor.

[[File:Ren48LSD-v3c-Build-14a.jpg|850px]]

15. Install the two 2-pin shunt jumpers

[[File:Ren48LSD-v3c-Build-15a.jpg|850px]]

16. Install the LED – note correct orientation - the flat side of the LED faces the bottom of the board and the shorter leg goes into the square hole.

[[File:Ren48LSD-v3c-Build-16a.jpg|850px]]

17. Install the DC input terminal blocks – note correct orientation - have the side where the power wires will be inserted facing to the right.

[[File:Ren48LSD-v3c-Build-17a.jpg|850px]]

18. Install the +5vdc bypass block '''(Install for 5vdc input)'''

[[File:Ren48LSD-v3c-Build-18a.jpg|850px]]

Note that if you are using a regulated 5vdc power supply for your input, you should omit installing most of the regulator circuitry.

19. Install the LM2575 regulator '''(Do not install for 5vdc input)''' - note correct orientation - pin 1 is denoted by the square pad - the odd number pins are the pins farthest away from the back

[[File:Ren48LSD-v3c-Build-19a.jpg|850px]]

20. Install the 100uF/50v capacitor '''(Do not install for 5vdc input)''' – note correct orientation - the capacitor has a stripe on the side denoting the negative leg that goes in the round hole.

[[File:Ren48LSD-v3c-Build-20a.jpg|850px]]

21. Install the 330uF/16v capacitor – note correct orientation - the capacitor has a stripe on the side denoting the negative leg that goes in the round hole.

[[File:Ren48LSD-v3c-Build-21a.jpg|850px]]

22. Mount the 5v regulator heat sink if you installed the regulator – use a small amount of heat sink compound

23. Install the choke coil - there is no polarity, it can be installed in either direction '''(Do not install for 5vdc input)'''

[[File:Ren48LSD-v3c-Build-22.jpg|850px]]

24. Install the fourteen RJ45 jacks – note that side-entry jacks can be substituted

[[File:Ren48LSD-v3c-Build-23a.jpg|850px]]

Congratulations! That completes the construction of the Ren48LSD!

==Initial Testing==
The first thing you will want to do in any PCB construction project is to double check that you have all components installed and in the proper orientation. You will then want to inspect the board for any cold/bridged solder joints. Take your time with this step and go over each and every joint.

If you have any of the IC's installed - remove them now. Connect your power supply to the “DC IN 1” - it supplies power to controller portion of the board as well as strip outputs 1-6. “DC IN 2” is a separate input to drive strips 7-12. Note that the ground is shared between the two inputs. If you are using a well regulated +5vdc power supply as your power input, the regulator circuit should not be installed. However, you must manually bypass this by placing a jumper wire between the +5vdc bypass terminal block. Turn on the supply and verify the power LED lights up. Verify you have 5v between pins 1 and 14 on each PIC socket as well as between pins 5 and 8 on the 485 chip sockets. Install all of the IC's if this passes.

==Programming the PIC controllers==
The Ren48LSD does not supply or use a ZeroCross input and therefore the Renard firmware (either Renard or DMX protocol) must be configured for DC/PWM
operation. In addition, if you are using the DMX firmware, you may want to set the initial starting address but generally, this can be left at '1' for all PICs since the code is self-addressing. Also – like the ULN2803 drivers, the transistors invert the output so the firmware uses positive outputs.

===Renard Protocol===
Obtain the standard Renard firmware [http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/images/d/d3/Renard-20071229.asm here:]

Make the following changes:

#define PWM_build 1 – change from '0'
#define DC_build 1 – change from '0'
#define CTR_LOCKOUT 1 – change from '15'
;#define OUTPUT_NEGATIVE_TRUE – comment this out

Compile the code into hex code and program all six PICs with the same code. A standard version of the code with the settings above has been compiled already for you in the File Library available [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/dynamics/attachment.php?attachmentid=207&d=1280420686 here].

===Renard-DMX Protocol===
Obtain the DMX Renard firmware from [http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/images/e/ea/Renard-dmx-20080814.asm here:]

#define DC_build 1 – change from '0'
#define CTR_LOCKOUT 0 – change from '40'
#define SINK_map 0x00 – change from '0xFF'

If you want to change the DMX starting address then alter it below – this is only required on the first PIC in the chain. If you have multiple Ren48LSD controllers, you can leave the second/subsequent PICs at '1' and they will automatically start off where the last PIC left off.

#define DMX_START_ADDRESS 1

Compile the code into hex code and program all six PICs with the same code (unless using a starting address). A standard version of the code with the settings above has been compiled already for you in the File Library available [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/dynamics/attachment.php?attachmentid=206&d=1280420686 here].

Whichever firmware you choose, install the flashed PICs into the sockets noting the correct orientation. Also install the two 485 chips into their sockets noting the correct orientation. You are now ready for final testing.

==Final Testing==
I chose not to design in the diagnostic LEDs as those used on the RenSS series of controllers. The design is fairly straight-forward and as long as you are sure of the voltage inputs and the PICs are flashed properly you should not have any issues if your soldering is good.

If you are using RS232, you should install the shunt on the "RS232" header which shorts pin 5 of the RJ45-IN connector to ground for proper RS232 operation. The wiring is the same as the RenardSS series so you can follow the cabling requiremnents for that.

As the Renard controller variations do not use bussed DMX it's not critical to install the DMX termination shunt if you are only using Renard controllers. This is because they are using point-to-point configurations. However - if this particular controller is at the end of a line of other normal (bussed) DMX devices, you should install the shunt to properly terminate the bus.

I'm assuming at this point that you have built one or more of the LED SuperStrips to test with. If not - - well - - do it... Note that the strips have one caveat – I have found that the LED colors go in Red, Blue, Green and White order – not Red, Green, Blue and White order. The RJ45 outputs are as follows:

#Common +DC
#Red Ground
#Common +DC
#Blue Ground
#Common +DC
#Green Ground
#Common +DC
#White Ground

What does this mean to you? Well – if you use standard straight-thru RJ45/Ethernet cables, the color order will be RBGW channel order in Vixen so if you want to use an RGBW order, you'll need to change the channel order in Vixen. The other alternative (and the way I do it) is to swap pins 4 and 6 at one end of the RJ45 cable. I did this because I thought it made more sense to keep the natural pin order versus color order. Note that pins 1, 3, 5 and 7 are tied together both on the PCB as well as the strips – there is no way to have separate +DC runs with the strips.

Connect the Ren48LSD to your PC using standard wiring practices as on the Wiki for other Renard controllers. Develop a Vixen sequence to turn on/off each channel in groups of four using the appropriate Renard/DMX plug-in. Channels 1, 5, 9, etc should have the same programming but only have 1 channel in the group (1,2,3,4) on at a time. This helps ensure you have unique channel
addressing from each RJ45 output.

With the sequence running, plug in a strip into each RJ45 and ensure each color turns on in order (remember that the B & G colors are swapped). Once that is complete you change the on/off to ramp up/downs to verify dimming operation. Finally, you can perform a full load test with 12 strips installed.

The Ren48LSD can be used to drive other devices as well of course. The MightyMini floods can be wired using normal RGBW wiring since the MM end of the cable goes into terminal blocks versus an RJ45 jack. Another popular flood is the ChristmasOnManor Rainbow Flood. This is an RGB (no white) flood so it only uses 3 channels. The wiring uses pins 2, 4 and 8 to drive Red, Green and Blue. Note that pin 6 - or the 3rd channel is not used here. You have a few choices - in Vixen simply skip that channel, or if you really want to use that channel, you will need to do some creative cabling or not use the RJ45 jacks at all and wire the 3 channels directly to the board. You can also alter the code in the PIC to only use 6 channels but this probably isn't worth the effort of changing the code.

==TroubleShooting==
So - you've built your new Ren48LSD, connected it up to your computer and tried a quick sequence and nothing happens! There are several checks to perform in order:

===Visual Inspection===
The very first step involves a close visual inspection of the board. Double check that you have the correct component in the correct location and in the correct orientation. Look at every single solder connection and if some are not shiny or look suspect - reflow them to be sure.
===Power===
Measure across pins 1 and 14 on all PIC sockets (U1 -> U6) - it should read 5v

Measure across pins 5 and 8 on both RS-485 sockets (U7, U8) - it should read 5v

If you do not measure 5v and you are using the "+5VDC BYPASS" feature, then ensure your supply is actually providing 5v at the "DC IN 1" terminal block.

If you do not measure 5v and you are using the regulator circuit, then ensure you are providing at least 7.5vdc (and up to 24vdc) into the "DC IN 1" terminal block from your supply. If that's OK, then inspect the soldering all around the regulator, coil, diodes and filter capacitors on the right hand side of the board. Ensure the filter capacitors, diodes and regulator were installed with the correct orientation.

===PIC Programming===
Reflash your PICs with the .hex file from this Wiki page or the File Library - perform a 'Verify' to be sure it's not blank
===Clocking===
With all six PICs installed, measure the voltage from pin 14 (gnd) to pin 2 (OSC) on all PICs - it should read around 2.5v (+/- 0.3v). If it appears to be stuck at 0 or 5v, then you probably have a soldering issue, the oscillator was installed with the incorrect orientation or the oscillator is bad. There should be 5v between the upper left and lower right pins on the oscillator (as viewed from the top of the board shown above).

Another possible reason for seeing close to 5v on pin 2 is that none of the PICs have been programmed properly. This is due to no loading of the output from the oscillator. Before replacing the oscillator, re-verify that the PICs have been programmed.

===Communications===
From Vixen, ensure you have the appropriate plug-in selected and configured. If you are using Renard/Serial code, you should have the "Renard Dimmer (modified)" selected using Protocol Version 1 and the correct COM port selected for your serial port. Ensure the baud rate is 57600 (if using the standard image), 8-bits, no parity, no stop bits and that it matches the port settings in the Windows Control Panel (Device Manager) as well. Ensure your cabling is correct from the Wiki documentation for Renard (it is the same as the RenSS series). Ensure the "RS232" jumper is ON and that the "TERM" jumper is OFF.

If you are using Renard/DMX code, you should have either the "Enttec Open DMX" or "Enttec DMX USB Pro" plug-in selected (unless you are using E1.31 which is beyond this document). Ensure your DMX dongle is seen as a COM port (unplug/plug in to be sure while Vixen is not up) and the plug-in is configured to match the port number. The baud rate settings are not used for DMX (it's always 250Kbps). If using the Enttec Open dongle, you need to configure the DMX Add-In as well so that the data is streamed to the device.Ensure your cabling is correct from the Wiki documentation for Renard (it is the same as the RenSS series). Ensure the "RS232" jumper is OFF. The "TERM" jumper will probably make no difference whether it's on or off but you can try both ways to see if it makes any difference.

Note that it's not really within the scope of this document to troubleshoot Vixen/dongle/cabling issues - please go through some of the Wiki documentation and if at all possible, try to confirm on a working piece of equipment before troubleshooting something that isn't broken to begin with. It's assumed at this point that to the best of your knowledge that everything up to the "IN" jack is in working order.

Configure a short Vixen sequence with a slow on/off sequence for each channel - 1 second on, 1 second off. Alternate the odd channels so that they are the opposite polarity of the even channels. In other words, when channel 1 is ON, channel 2 is OFF or when channel 2 is ON, channel 1 is off. Create a 48-channel sequence in this fashion so you can test all PICs at once. With the sequence running, measure the outputs of the PIC at pins 1, 13, 12, 11, 10, 9, 8 and 7. You should see each pin alternate from 0v to 5v once a second matching the sequence. If this is not the case, then sequencing data is not being received by the PIC(s).

Measure the voltage at pin 5 on PIC #1 (U1) with the same sequence running (from ground). it should be alternating between 0v and 5v and not be stuck at one or the other. If it appears stuck, then inspect the "IN" RS-485 chip at U7 (and the entire path from it to pin 5 on PIC #1/U1 pin 5) and ensure there are no bent pins (including the RJ45 jack itself), cold solder joints. Swap the two chips at U7 and U8 ("OUT" RS-485) to see if that resolves the issue. If the failure is in-between channels, then perform the same check on pin 5 on all PICs. For PICs #2-6, pin 5 is fed from pin 6 on the preceding PIC. In other words PIC 1, pin 6 feeds PIC 2, pin 5 and down the line so it could be an issue with the preceding PIC. Swap PICs around to see if that helps - otherwise it is probably a soldering issue.

If the problem is with a daisy-chained controller FROM this Ren48LSD, then inspect the RS-485 "OUT" chip closely at U8 for bent pins, solder issues, etc. Check the output RJ45 jack at J14 for crossed pins. Swap the RS-485 chip between U7 and U8 to see if that helps. Note that ALL output from the Ren48LSD is at RS-485 levels so the daisy-chained controller should not have the RS-232 jumper enabled.

===Output Drivers===
It's assumed at this point that you have checked that a sequence can drive the PIC outputs properly between 0 and 5v OK. With the PIC(s) removed and power on, connect a ''known good device'' (flood, RGB strip, etc) to the output socket(s) in question.

Use a piece of hookup wire and connect the wire from pin 1 to the following pins:

:Pin 3 - channel 1/9/17/25/33/41
:Pin 13 - channel 2/10/18/26/34/42
:Pin 12 - channel 3/11/19/27/35/43
:Pin 11 - channel 4/12/20/28/36/44
:Pin 10 - channel 5/13/21/29/37/45
:Pin 9 - channel 6/14/22/30/38/46
:Pin 8 - channel 7/15/23/31/39/47
:Pin 7 - channel 8/16/24/32/40/48

After connecting the wire to the output pins, the device should turn on. If it does not, then it's possible the output driver (transistor) is bad. Check the path from the PIC output pin you are testing through the 470 ohm resistor and to the base of the transistor in question. The nomenclature (name) of the transistor matches the channel number so "Q23" is for channel 23. Replacements may have been included with your kit or you can get them at RadioShack - most MPS2222a, PN2222A or 2N3904 types can be subsituted. If you have multiple transistors bad, then you should investigate how this happened before replacing the transistors since there's a good chance they will simply blow again.

==FAQ==

Q1: What if I only have 6 strips and won't be using ports 7-12?

A1: Well - you're in luck! Next to PIC #3 and PIC #6 is a via hole that will bypass PICs #4 - #6 if you install a wire between them. Note that this is only necessary if you are planning to daisy-chain another board from this one. This effectively makes this a Ren24LSD. If you are not going to daisy-chain another board, you can leave it off as well as the RS-485 output chip. Personally, I think this is false economy since you'll have to dig the parts up if you change your mind and want to run a board off this one. In either case, you certainly save time and money by not installing the PICs, sockets, transistors, resistors and output connectors for strips 7-12 if you don't have them.

[[File:Ren48LSD-v3c-Construction-Bypass.png]]

Q2: Can I use standard DIY SSRs with the Ren48LSD?

A2: You can use DC SSRs but not AC SSRs. AC SSRs cannot be used as they require synchronization to the AC power line using a zero-cross signal from the controller. The Ren48LSD does not have an AC present since it only uses a DC power supply. While it can turn on/off/dim the AC SSR, since it is not synced the TRIACs will turn on/off at the wrong times during the AC cycle and it will look terrible. DC SSRs can be used just fine - however there is one caveat in that pin 7 is not connected to ground as with other controllers (it is in fact tied to +DC). This means that the 'active' indicator used on most DC SSRs (indicating it is connected to a controller) will not work correctly. This does not affect operation at all however so they can be used with on/off/dimming just fine.

----

==Schematic==

'''NOTE - the schematic below has an error on the input circuitry but the board itself is correct. Use the RenSS (any) schematic for the communication circuitry for now.'''

Here is the schematic drawing for the Ren48LSD v3c in PDF format - [[File:Ren48LSD-v3c-Schematic.pdf]]

----
--[[User:Budude|Budude]] 03:08, 4 June 2010 (UTC)

[[Category:DIYC Controllers]]
[[Category:Renard]]
[[Category:Renard 48LSD]]
[[Category:DIYC Index]]

File:Ren48LSD-defect.png

2014-03-11T03:30:34Z

Budude:

E68X-to-DMX

2013-10-27T06:00:41Z

Budude: /* Bill of Materials */

==E68X-to-DMX Adapter==

The E68X-to-DMX Adapter as the name implies, converts the TTL logic level of the DMX Raw data stream from the E68x controller and converts it to the proper RS-485 levels. The E68x can be configured to send a raw DMX data stream to the first pixel controller connector in a group. The output is a single-ended TTL level (5v) which is not suitable for direct connection to a DMX RS-485 network. This adapter takes that input and converts it to the proper differential output required. This initial version is a simple design and does not emply any isolation at the input or outputs to the RS-485 line. This was done to keep costs to a minimum and keep the board small. Later versions may include full isolation if there's enough demand for it.

===Schematic===
The schematic is quite simple and contains few parts. It can be made quite cheaply by replacing certain jumpers, etc with wires. The output jumper layout to support both Renard or DMX wiring schemes was taken from member RPM's E1.31-Renard/DMX bridge. Setting all of the jumpers one way uses the pseudo standard RJ45 DMX format with D+/D- on 1/2 and ground on 7. Setting all the jumpers the other way selects Renard format with D+/D- on 4/5 and ground on 1/2. Note that in both cases, it is still DMX output - this just saves you from making a special cable so that straight Cat5 patch cables can be used. The board includes an optional 78L05 voltage regulator that can be used if you exclusively use 12v pixels. This will convert the voltage to 5v for the RS485 chip but can be bypassed if you have 5v pixels.
 
[[File:E68XTODMX-SCH-V1D.jpg|680px|E68XTODMX Schematic]]
 
===Bill of Materials===
The ST485BN/CN is no longer carried by Mouser but all of the parts can be found at Digi-Key instead.

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! Part Description !! Qty !! Store !! Part Number
|-
| ST485CN - RS485 Transceiver || 1 || Digi-Key || 497-6729-5-ND
|-
| L78L05ABZ - 5v Regulator || 1 || Digi-Key || 497-1009-ND
|-
| 1751264 - 4P 3.5mm TB || 1 || Digi-Key || 277-5744-ND
|-
| 120 ohm Resistor || 1 || Digi-Key || CF14JT120RCT-ND
|-
| SA105E104MAR - .1uF Capacitor || 3 || Digi-Key || 478-3156-1-ND
|-
| 1-390261-2 - 8-pin socket || 1 || Digi-Key || A100204-ND
|-
| 68000-203HLF - 1x3 pin header || 4 || Digi-Key || 609-3464-ND
|-
| 5555164-1 - RJ45 jack || 1 || Digi-Key || A31442-ND
|-
| 2-382811-1 - Shunt || 4 || Digi-Key || A31697-ND
|}

Note that none of the parts are critical - you can substitute similar parts. In addition, the 78L05 regulator and two of the .1uF capacitors are only needed when using 12v pixel power - if using 5v, you can simply jumper out the regulator (shown on PCB). A top-entry jack can be substituted for the RJ45 jack.

===Board Layout===
The board layout is very straight forward with a pixel connector and reguator (optional) at one end, an RS-485 chip in the middle and an output jumper setup with RJ45 to DMX connector at the end. Two methods of connections to the E68x are possible. The first consists of a standard 4-contact terminal block that can be wired back to the removable block that plugs into the E68x. The other method consists of running a 20 gauge or so wires down from the board and terminating them directly into a removable block that can be plugged directly into the E68x. This latter method saves on the terminal block and keeps the setup quite neat. Only 3 wires are used (+5v, Ground, Data) but a 4-wire connector was used so it would physically match up to the connector (1.5mm pitch) on the E68x.
 
[[File:E68XTODMX-BRD-V1D.jpg|680px|E68X-DMX Schematic]]
 

===Assembly===
 E68XTODMX KIT 1 CONTENTS
 [[File:E68XTODMX-01.JPG|680px|E68XTODMX KIT1 CONTENTS]]
 E68XTODMX KIT 2 CONTENTS
 [[File:E68XTODMX-02.JPG|680px|E68XTODMX KIT2 CONTENTS]]
 E68XTODMX PCB
 [[File:E68XTODMX-03.JPG|680px|E68XTODMX PCB]]
 Install the 120 ohm resistor - there is no polarity
 Install a wire jumper instead of the 7805 regulator if you are using 5v pixel power - do NOT install if using 12v pixel power
 [[File:E68XTODMX-04.JPG|680px|]]
 Install the three 100nF decoupling capacitors - there is no polarity
 [[File:E68XTODMX-05.JPG|680px|]]
 Install the 8-pin DIP Socket
 [[File:E68XTODMX-06.JPG|680px|]]
 Install the two 2x3 headers horizontally
 [[File:E68XTODMX-07.JPG|680px|]]
 Install the four shunts - all four on left for DMX or all four on right for Renard output wiring
 [[File:E68XTODMX-08.JPG|680px|]]
 If you are not using the 4-pin terminal block, take four pieces of wire and bend the ends over as shown
 [[File:E68XTODMX-09.JPG|680px|]]
 Insert the wires and solder them in
 [[File:E68XTODMX-10.JPG|680px|]]
 Here are the four wires shown from the bottom
 [[File:E68XTODMX-11.JPG|680px|]]
 Trim the four wires to about 1/2" or so
 [[File:E68XTODMX-12.JPG|680px|]]
 Insert the four wires into the Terminal Block provided from your E681
 [[File:E68XTODMX-13.JPG|680px|]]
 Install the RJ45 connector
 [[File:E68XTODMX-14.JPG|680px|]]
 Completed E68XTODMX Adaptor (5v version)
 [[File:E68XTODMX-16.JPG|680px|]]
 If you are using 12V Pixel power, install the 7805 regulator
 [[File:E68XTODMX-17.JPG|680px|]]
 If you are using the 4-pin terminal block, install it now
 [[File:E68XTODMX-18.JPG|680px|]]
 Install the RJ45 connector
 [[File:E68XTODMX-19.JPG|680px|]]

===E68x Configuration===
The E68x should be configured with the following parameters:
*Pixel Type of "DMX PIXEL" - use the command CH X,5 where X is the Group number
*String Count of 1 - use the command ST X,1 where X is the Group number
*Pixel Count of 170 - use the command PI X,170 where X is the Group number

The converter must be plugged into the first connector of the group (1-1, 2-1, 3-1 or 4-1) if you want a full universe (actually 510 channels).

You can also get creative and configure it with 4 strings of up to 42 pixels and use all four connectors in a group and you will end up with four separate DMX streams starting at addresses of 1-126, 127-252, 253-378 and 379-504. Smaller string lengths will result in smaller bundles of DMX addresses. Note that all strings sizes have to be the same length for a given group. Also remember the unit of measurement is pixels or 3-channels - not single channels.

===Converter Configuration===
The four jumpers must be placed all on the left for DMX wiring or all on the right for Renard wiring. You must install all four of the jumpers or install wire jumpers instead for the converter to work properly.

If you are using 5v pixel power on the connector you can jumper out the 78L05 regulator to provide 5v power. If you are using 12v pixel power then be sure to NOT have the bypass jumper installed or it will fry the RS485 chip. It is not recommended to use this board with 24v pixels as it may cause the regulator to overheat.

===Threads===
[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?20993-E68x-to-DMX-converter Discussion Thread] 
[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?22138-E68X-to-DMX-Adapter-and-TIR-DMX-Breakout-board-Group-Buy Group Buy Thread] 

 

[[Category:DIYC Controllers]]
[[Category:DMX]]
[[Category:Pixel]]
[[Category:DIYC Index]]

Ren48LSDv3c

2013-08-31T18:44:28Z

Budude: /* Ren48LSD (v3c) Parts */

=Ren48LSD (v3c) Construction Manual=

'''For information on the older version of this board (v3b) please go to [[Ren48LSD]].''' This page is for the v3c version of the board.

==''What'' is the Ren48LSD?==
The Ren48LSD ('''L'''ED '''S'''trip '''D'''river) controller came about as a solution to drive Frank's LED Super Strips. Originally I used [[DCSSR|DCSSRs]] to drive them and while it's a workable solution, it tends to be somewhat bulky and requires lots of additional wiring between the controller and DCSSRs as well as to the strips themselves. Another alternative is [[Renard 24LV|Frank's Ren24LV]] which uses ULN2803 drivers. The issue with this solution is that it has limitations in how much power it can sink to the strips due to the ULN2803 package power dissipation.

The strips require up to 360mA per output (18 LEDs x 20mA) so I used an NPN bipolar transistor to drive them. The transistors support up to 600mA maximum but should be limited to 400mA per output overall due to trace/connector maximums. The transistors are fairly cheap so it makes for a simple, inexpensive solution. The controller design used the [[The_Renard_SS24_Controller_Board|Ren24SS]] as a base, using the same PIC, clocking and serial interface configuration but expanded to 6 PICs to support 48 channels or driving up to 12 strips per board. Because of this, the controller supports standard [[Renard_Firmware#Regular_Firmware|Renard protocol FW]] using RS-232/485 as well as the [[Renard_Firmware#DMX_firmware|DMX]] version. The board requires either a 5vdc well regulated supply or a good 9-24vdc supply. The input supply also drives the LED strips.

'''For information on the previous version of this board (v3b) please go to [[Ren48LSD]].''' This page is for the v3c version of the board.

==How does the Ren48LSD work?==
The Ren48LSD uses the same architecture for the logic portions of the board from the RenardSS series of boards. Sequence information is passed from a PC running Vixen or other sequencing program via an RS-232 or RS-485/DMX interface. The ST485 chips receive this information and turn into standard TTL logic levels that the PIC can understand. The PIC reads in the data and if it determines that the information corresponds to itself, it updates the dimming levels of all 8 channels. It removes this information from the stream and feeds the rest out to the next PIC and that one performs the same. This is repeated for all 6 PICs. The last PIC, PIC 6, feeds what's left of the stream out to the other ST485 chip which translates it to RS-485 levels for the next controller in the line. It is important to realize that the information is removed from the stream and that the resultant leftover stream will have all of the data offset by the 48 channels of information used by the Ren48LSD. For example, if you have two Ren48LSDs, on Vixen you would configure a single Renard/DMX plug-in with 96 channels. The first Ren48LSD consumes the first 48 channels of information leaving only 48 channels on it's outputs. The second Ren48LSD will see this incoming data as controller #1 again and assume the data is for it. This is very much different than standard hard/soft-coded DMX or LOR devices that use a set address yet still pass on the entire stream to the next controller on the line. There are advantages and disadvantages to either approach - but you should be aware of this when combining normal DMX devices before/after a Ren48LSD (or any Renard controller running DMX code).

The PICs receive the data on pin 5 and after consuming their 8 channels of data, forward the rest out of pin 6 of the PIC which in turn goes to pin 5 of the next PIC. PIC #6 or the last PIC feeds the next controller if you have one attached as mentioned above. All of the PICs are fed the same clock from the external oscillator.

The logic portions of the board require a steady +5vdc supply. This can be supplied in two ways on the Ren48LSD. If you use a well-regulated +5vdc power supply, you skip installing all of the regulator circuitry and install a jumper across the +5vdc bypass connector. This will feed the power from the DC IN 1 jack directly to the logic components. Obviously care must be taken to ONLY use a 5vdc supply - if a 12v supply is connected in this configuration, you will probably lose all of your PICs, ST485 chips and the Oscillator in one shot. If you are planning to use a 9-24vdc supply then you must install the regulator circuitry. This allows the power supplied on the DC IN 1 connector to be converted down to +5vdc for the logic components. It is important to realize that the 5v created is only used by the logic components, it is NOT sent out to the outputs of the Ren48LSD. The outputs always follow whatever you place on DC IN 1 and DC IN 2. The two connectors are separated so it is possible to run different voltages on DC IN 1 and DC IN 2 (say 5v and 12v). Here again, extreme caution must be taken to ensure you do not mix up supplies or plug your device into the wrong outputs (say a 5v strip into a 12v output). In addition, you must ensure that the two power supplies will work harmoniously with a shared ground connection since the ground plane is shared between DC IN 1 and DC IN 2.

So - now that the PICs have the updated dimming levels for all of it's channels, it enables each of its outputs using PWM or Pulse Width Modulation. It is important to grasp that the voltage levels are not controlled - it is the amount of time on and off that is varied within a small cycle of time for each update. It seems logical that to dim things you would just change the voltage from 12v to 9v for example. Instead, the voltage is on at the full 12v for x amount of time and then it is off (0v) for the y amount of time - it is not something in-between. The cycle time is controlled by the PIC in the case of the Ren48LSD. In RenardSS boards, they use a Zero-Cross (ZC) signal which is created by an opto-isolator attached to the AC line (either directly to the mains or via a transformer and in both cases through some resistors to limit the current to the opto). Since the Ren48LSD does not have any AC supplied to it, the PIC basically makes up it's own timing but it closely resembles what is seen with normal ZC usage.

The Ren48LSD uses sourced outputs and not sinked outputs like the RenardSS controllers. Why is this? Because the PIC needs to turn on a transistor and to do this, it supplies 5v on it's output which turns on the transistor (via a resistor to limit the current) which allows current to flow from the collector to the emitter of the transistor. The emitter is directly connected to ground so basically, the transistor sinks the current from the LEDs (or whatever you have attached to the output) to ground. The positive voltage from the DC power supply connects directly to the device you have attached and this completes the circuit.

==Revision History==
The main changes from the v3b version of the board are a newly designed voltage regulator circuit. It was found on the v3b that the standard LM7805 regulator would get very hot when fully loaded at 12v (the v3b only supported 5vdc or 9-12vdc input). When fully on, the device sat at it's peak temperature of about 120 degC. I came up with a few workarounds which addressed this (see the v3b page) but for the next revision, I decided to change the regulator completely. Instead of using a linear 7805 regulator, I went with the LM2575-5 switching regulator. While it requires a few more parts (a coil, diodes and low ESR filter capacitors) it does allow the v3c version of the board to go up to 24vdc at full load. The regulator stays well within the temperature specs and in normal operation does not even get warm.

You do have to decide prior to building the board whether you will be using +5vdc or 9-24vdc as your input supply source (specifically to DC IN 1). If you are going with 5vdc, then you don't need any of the regulator circuit components - in fact you should specifically leave them off the board. There is a bypass jumper block on the board that bypasses the +5v from DC IN 1 directly to the logic on the board so you must install that block and jumper that as well. If you are going with 9-24vdc then you do need to install all of the regulator circuit to provide 5v to the logic on the board (PICs, Oscillator, RS485 chips).

==Ren48LSD (v3c) Parts==
In addition to the [http://www.diyledexpress.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=3&products_id=68 PCB], you will need the following components:

<table border="1"><tr><td>'''Mouser BOM'''</td></tr>
<tr><td>Mouser PN</td><td>Description</td><td>Qty</td></tr>
<tr><td>579-PIC16F688-I/P</td><td>Microcontrollers (MCU) 7KB 256 RAM 12 I/O</td><td>6</td></tr>
<tr><td>571-1-390261-3</td><td>IC & Component Sockets 14P ECONOMY TIN</td><td>6</td></tr>
<tr><td>511-ST485BN</td><td>Buffers & Line Drivers Hi-Spd Lo Pwr Trans</td><td>2</td></tr>
<tr><td>571-1-390261-2</td><td>IC & Component Sockets 8P ECONOMY TIN</td><td>2</td></tr>
<tr><td>520-TCH1843-X</td><td>ECS-2100AX-18.432MHZ</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>863-MPS2222AG</td><td>Bipolar Transistors 600mA 75V NPN</td><td>48</td></tr>
<tr><td>78-1N5239B</td><td>Zener Diodes 9.1 Volt 0.5 Watt</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>78-1N5229B</td><td>Zener Diodes 4.3 Volt 0.5 Watt</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>863-1N5819G</td><td>Schottky (Diodes & Rectifiers) 1A 40V</td><td>2</td></tr>
<tr><td>863-LM2575TV-5G</td><td>Switching Converters, Regulators & Controllers 5V 1A PWR SW REG</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>532-577102B00</td><td>Heatsinks TO-220 HORIZ/VERT SLIM CHANNEL STYLE</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>604-WP7113ID</td><td>Standard LED - Through Hole HI EFF RED DIFFUSED</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>581-SA105E104MAR</td><td>Multilayer Ceramic Capacitors (MLCC) - Leaded 50volts 0.1uF 20% Z5U</td><td>9</td></tr>
<tr><td>667-ELC-18B331L</td><td>Power Inductors 330UH RADIAL COIL CHOKE</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>140-RXJ331M1CBK1012P</td><td>Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - Leaded 16V 330uF 105C 10x12.5 mm</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>140-RXJ101M1HBK1016P</td><td>Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - Leaded 50V 100uF 105C 10x16 mm</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>299-680-RC</td><td>Carbon Film Resistors 680ohms</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>299-120-RC</td><td>Carbon Film Resistors 120ohms</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>299-27K-RC</td><td>Carbon Film Resistors 27Kohms</td><td>2</td></tr>
<tr><td>299-1K-RC</td><td>Carbon Film Resistors 1.0Kohms</td><td>2</td></tr>
<tr><td>299-470-RC</td><td>Carbon Film Resistors 470ohms</td><td>48</td></tr>
<tr><td>299-10K-RC</td><td>Carbon Film Resistors 10Kohms</td><td>6</td></tr>
<tr><td>571-5556416-1</td><td>Telecom & Ethernet Connectors 8 PCB TOP ENTRY</td><td>14</td></tr>
<tr><td>571-7969492</td><td>Terminal Blocks 5.08MM VERTICAL 2P wire protector</td><td>3</td></tr>
<tr><td>571-5-146281-2</td><td>Headers & Wire Housings 2 P HEADER GOLD 30u single row</td><td>2</td></tr>
<tr><td>649-65474-002LF</td><td>Headers & Wire Housings SHUNT TIN</td><td>1</td></tr>
</table>

[http://www.mouser.com:80/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=76c8f3ed18 Click here for Mouser Direct Project BOM]

Most of the components are not overly critical and some can be omitted in certain
cases. The electrolytic capacitors must only be subsituted with low-ESR versions only. Failure to do so could result in instability in the regulation circuit. If you are using a well regulated 5vdc supply, the voltage regulator, 1N5819 diodes (2), 330uH coil, and 100uf capacitor should not be installed. This will require a jumper to be placed across the +5vdc bypass terminal block which effectively shunts DC IN 1 directly to the board logic.

The BOM is available from [http://www.diyledexpress.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=3 DIYLEDExpress.com] 


'''NOTE - If you recently purchased a Ren48LSD board from diyledexpress then you should know that there was a slight mistake on the board files. Pin 7 of ALL the RJ45 outputs is not connected to anything. To use that pin, you must run a small jumper from pin 5 to pin 7 or simply blob up some solder between the two pins. This will ensure the common V+ is distributed properly to all four odd pins on the outputs.'''


==Building the Ren48LSD==

The Ren48LSD requires a fair bit of soldering so take your time and ensure you
install the components in the correct orientation when required. Start by sorting
the components by type and values. Look over the PCB before starting noting the
location of the various components. Follow the standard procedure of installing
the lowest profile parts first and ending up with the tallest.

[[File:Ren48LSD-v3c-Construction-0.png]]

1. Install the six 10k resistors near each PIC

[[File:Ren48LSD-v3c-Build-01a.jpg|850px]]

2. Install the two 1k resistors near the 485 chips

[[File:Ren48LSD-v3c-Build-02a.jpg|850px]]

3. Install the two 27k resistors near the 485 chips

[[File:Ren48LSD-v3c-Build-03a.jpg|850px]]

4. Install the one 120 resistor near the 485 chips

[[File:Ren48LSD-v3c-Build-04a.jpg|850px]]

5. Install the one 680 resistor near the LED

[[File:Ren48LSD-v3c-Build-05a.jpg|850px]]

6. Install the 1N5229 diode near the 485 chips – note the correct orientation - the band on the diode goes towards the top of the board in the square hole.

[[File:Ren48LSD-v3c-Build-06a.jpg|850px]]

7. Install the 1N5239 diode near the 485 chips – note the correct orientation - the band on the diode goes towards the top of the board in the square hole.

[[File:Ren48LSD-v3c-Build-07a.jpg|850px]]

8. Install the two 1N5819 diodes near the voltage regulator '''(Do not install for 5vdc input)''' – note the correct orientation - the diode closest to DCIN1 has the band on the diode facing down and in the square hole, the diode closest to the choke has the band on the diode facing right and in the square hole.

[[File:Ren48LSD-v3c-Build-08a.jpg|850px]]

9. Install all forty-eight 470 ohm resistors doing 4-8 at a time.

[[File:Ren48LSD-v3c-Build-09a.jpg|850px]]

10. Install the nine decoupling capacitors near the IC sockets and oscillator. Note that the silkscreen says ".01uF" - in fact they are 0.1uF (100nF).

[[File:Ren48LSD-v3c-Build-10a.jpg|850px]]

11. Install the six 14-pin PIC chip sockets - note the correct orientation - the top 3 sockets have the notch facing towards the left, and the bottom 3 sockets have the notch facing the right.

[[File:Ren48LSD-v3c-Build-11a.jpg|850px]]

12. Install the two 8-pin 485 chip sockets - note the correct orientation - the notch faces to the right side of the board towards the PICs.

[[File:Ren48LSD-v3c-Build-12a.jpg|850px]]

13. Install the 18.432MHz oscillator – note the correct orientation - the package has one square corner (and a dot) and that goes into the square hole on the board

[[File:Ren48LSD-v3c-Build-13a.jpg|850px]]

14. Install the 48 transistors – note the correct orientation – the emitter is nearest the PICs, base in the middle and collector near the RJ45 jacks. The legs of the transistors will need to be bent slightly to fit the holes. The middle leg will end up being out in front of the flat side of the transistor.

[[File:Ren48LSD-v3c-Build-14a.jpg|850px]]

15. Install the two 2-pin shunt jumpers

[[File:Ren48LSD-v3c-Build-15a.jpg|850px]]

16. Install the LED – note correct orientation - the flat side of the LED faces the bottom of the board and the shorter leg goes into the square hole.

[[File:Ren48LSD-v3c-Build-16a.jpg|850px]]

17. Install the DC input terminal blocks – note correct orientation - have the side where the power wires will be inserted facing to the right.

[[File:Ren48LSD-v3c-Build-17a.jpg|850px]]

18. Install the +5vdc bypass block '''(Install for 5vdc input)'''

[[File:Ren48LSD-v3c-Build-18a.jpg|850px]]

Note that if you are using a regulated 5vdc power supply for your input, you should omit installing most of the regulator circuitry.

19. Install the LM2575 regulator '''(Do not install for 5vdc input)''' - note correct orientation - pin 1 is denoted by the square pad - the odd number pins are the pins farthest away from the back

[[File:Ren48LSD-v3c-Build-19a.jpg|850px]]

20. Install the 100uF/50v capacitor '''(Do not install for 5vdc input)''' – note correct orientation - the capacitor has a stripe on the side denoting the negative leg that goes in the round hole.

[[File:Ren48LSD-v3c-Build-20a.jpg|850px]]

21. Install the 330uF/16v capacitor – note correct orientation - the capacitor has a stripe on the side denoting the negative leg that goes in the round hole.

[[File:Ren48LSD-v3c-Build-21a.jpg|850px]]

22. Mount the 5v regulator heat sink if you installed the regulator – use a small amount of heat sink compound

23. Install the choke coil - there is no polarity, it can be installed in either direction '''(Do not install for 5vdc input)'''

[[File:Ren48LSD-v3c-Build-22.jpg|850px]]

24. Install the fourteen RJ45 jacks – note that side-entry jacks can be substituted

[[File:Ren48LSD-v3c-Build-23a.jpg|850px]]

Congratulations! That completes the construction of the Ren48LSD!

==Initial Testing==
The first thing you will want to do in any PCB construction project is to double check that you have all components installed and in the proper orientation. You will then want to inspect the board for any cold/bridged solder joints. Take your time with this step and go over each and every joint.

If you have any of the IC's installed - remove them now. Connect your power supply to the “DC IN 1” - it supplies power to controller portion of the board as well as strip outputs 1-6. “DC IN 2” is a separate input to drive strips 7-12. Note that the ground is shared between the two inputs. If you are using a well regulated +5vdc power supply as your power input, the regulator circuit should not be installed. However, you must manually bypass this by placing a jumper wire between the +5vdc bypass terminal block. Turn on the supply and verify the power LED lights up. Verify you have 5v between pins 1 and 14 on each PIC socket as well as between pins 5 and 8 on the 485 chip sockets. Install all of the IC's if this passes.

==Programming the PIC controllers==
The Ren48LSD does not supply or use a ZeroCross input and therefore the Renard firmware (either Renard or DMX protocol) must be configured for DC/PWM
operation. In addition, if you are using the DMX firmware, you may want to set the initial starting address but generally, this can be left at '1' for all PICs since the code is self-addressing. Also – like the ULN2803 drivers, the transistors invert the output so the firmware uses positive outputs.

===Renard Protocol===
Obtain the standard Renard firmware [http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/images/d/d3/Renard-20071229.asm here:]

Make the following changes:

#define PWM_build 1 – change from '0'
#define DC_build 1 – change from '0'
#define CTR_LOCKOUT 1 – change from '15'
;#define OUTPUT_NEGATIVE_TRUE – comment this out

Compile the code into hex code and program all six PICs with the same code. A standard version of the code with the settings above has been compiled already for you in the File Library available [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/dynamics/attachment.php?attachmentid=207&d=1280420686 here].

===Renard-DMX Protocol===
Obtain the DMX Renard firmware from [http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/images/e/ea/Renard-dmx-20080814.asm here:]

#define DC_build 1 – change from '0'
#define CTR_LOCKOUT 0 – change from '40'
#define SINK_map 0x00 – change from '0xFF'

If you want to change the DMX starting address then alter it below – this is only required on the first PIC in the chain. If you have multiple Ren48LSD controllers, you can leave the second/subsequent PICs at '1' and they will automatically start off where the last PIC left off.

#define DMX_START_ADDRESS 1

Compile the code into hex code and program all six PICs with the same code (unless using a starting address). A standard version of the code with the settings above has been compiled already for you in the File Library available [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/dynamics/attachment.php?attachmentid=206&d=1280420686 here].

Whichever firmware you choose, install the flashed PICs into the sockets noting the correct orientation. Also install the two 485 chips into their sockets noting the correct orientation. You are now ready for final testing.

==Final Testing==
I chose not to design in the diagnostic LEDs as those used on the RenSS series of controllers. The design is fairly straight-forward and as long as you are sure of the voltage inputs and the PICs are flashed properly you should not have any issues if your soldering is good.

If you are using RS232, you should install the shunt on the "RS232" header which shorts pin 5 of the RJ45-IN connector to ground for proper RS232 operation. The wiring is the same as the RenardSS series so you can follow the cabling requiremnents for that.

As the Renard controller variations do not use bussed DMX it's not critical to install the DMX termination shunt if you are only using Renard controllers. This is because they are using point-to-point configurations. However - if this particular controller is at the end of a line of other normal (bussed) DMX devices, you should install the shunt to properly terminate the bus.

I'm assuming at this point that you have built one or more of the LED SuperStrips to test with. If not - - well - - do it... Note that the strips have one caveat – I have found that the LED colors go in Red, Blue, Green and White order – not Red, Green, Blue and White order. The RJ45 outputs are as follows:

#Common +DC
#Red Ground
#Common +DC
#Blue Ground
#Common +DC
#Green Ground
#Common +DC
#White Ground

What does this mean to you? Well – if you use standard straight-thru RJ45/Ethernet cables, the color order will be RBGW channel order in Vixen so if you want to use an RGBW order, you'll need to change the channel order in Vixen. The other alternative (and the way I do it) is to swap pins 4 and 6 at one end of the RJ45 cable. I did this because I thought it made more sense to keep the natural pin order versus color order. Note that pins 1, 3, 5 and 7 are tied together both on the PCB as well as the strips – there is no way to have separate +DC runs with the strips.

Connect the Ren48LSD to your PC using standard wiring practices as on the Wiki for other Renard controllers. Develop a Vixen sequence to turn on/off each channel in groups of four using the appropriate Renard/DMX plug-in. Channels 1, 5, 9, etc should have the same programming but only have 1 channel in the group (1,2,3,4) on at a time. This helps ensure you have unique channel
addressing from each RJ45 output.

With the sequence running, plug in a strip into each RJ45 and ensure each color turns on in order (remember that the B & G colors are swapped). Once that is complete you change the on/off to ramp up/downs to verify dimming operation. Finally, you can perform a full load test with 12 strips installed.

The Ren48LSD can be used to drive other devices as well of course. The MightyMini floods can be wired using normal RGBW wiring since the MM end of the cable goes into terminal blocks versus an RJ45 jack. Another popular flood is the ChristmasOnManor Rainbow Flood. This is an RGB (no white) flood so it only uses 3 channels. The wiring uses pins 2, 4 and 8 to drive Red, Green and Blue. Note that pin 6 - or the 3rd channel is not used here. You have a few choices - in Vixen simply skip that channel, or if you really want to use that channel, you will need to do some creative cabling or not use the RJ45 jacks at all and wire the 3 channels directly to the board. You can also alter the code in the PIC to only use 6 channels but this probably isn't worth the effort of changing the code.

==TroubleShooting==
So - you've built your new Ren48LSD, connected it up to your computer and tried a quick sequence and nothing happens! There are several checks to perform in order:

===Visual Inspection===
The very first step involves a close visual inspection of the board. Double check that you have the correct component in the correct location and in the correct orientation. Look at every single solder connection and if some are not shiny or look suspect - reflow them to be sure.
===Power===
Measure across pins 1 and 14 on all PIC sockets (U1 -> U6) - it should read 5v

Measure across pins 5 and 8 on both RS-485 sockets (U7, U8) - it should read 5v

If you do not measure 5v and you are using the "+5VDC BYPASS" feature, then ensure your supply is actually providing 5v at the "DC IN 1" terminal block.

If you do not measure 5v and you are using the regulator circuit, then ensure you are providing at least 7.5vdc (and up to 24vdc) into the "DC IN 1" terminal block from your supply. If that's OK, then inspect the soldering all around the regulator, coil, diodes and filter capacitors on the right hand side of the board. Ensure the filter capacitors, diodes and regulator were installed with the correct orientation.

===PIC Programming===
Reflash your PICs with the .hex file from this Wiki page or the File Library - perform a 'Verify' to be sure it's not blank
===Clocking===
With all six PICs installed, measure the voltage from pin 14 (gnd) to pin 2 (OSC) on all PICs - it should read around 2.5v (+/- 0.3v). If it appears to be stuck at 0 or 5v, then you probably have a soldering issue, the oscillator was installed with the incorrect orientation or the oscillator is bad. There should be 5v between the upper left and lower right pins on the oscillator (as viewed from the top of the board shown above).

Another possible reason for seeing close to 5v on pin 2 is that none of the PICs have been programmed properly. This is due to no loading of the output from the oscillator. Before replacing the oscillator, re-verify that the PICs have been programmed.

===Communications===
From Vixen, ensure you have the appropriate plug-in selected and configured. If you are using Renard/Serial code, you should have the "Renard Dimmer (modified)" selected using Protocol Version 1 and the correct COM port selected for your serial port. Ensure the baud rate is 57600 (if using the standard image), 8-bits, no parity, no stop bits and that it matches the port settings in the Windows Control Panel (Device Manager) as well. Ensure your cabling is correct from the Wiki documentation for Renard (it is the same as the RenSS series). Ensure the "RS232" jumper is ON and that the "TERM" jumper is OFF.

If you are using Renard/DMX code, you should have either the "Enttec Open DMX" or "Enttec DMX USB Pro" plug-in selected (unless you are using E1.31 which is beyond this document). Ensure your DMX dongle is seen as a COM port (unplug/plug in to be sure while Vixen is not up) and the plug-in is configured to match the port number. The baud rate settings are not used for DMX (it's always 250Kbps). If using the Enttec Open dongle, you need to configure the DMX Add-In as well so that the data is streamed to the device.Ensure your cabling is correct from the Wiki documentation for Renard (it is the same as the RenSS series). Ensure the "RS232" jumper is OFF. The "TERM" jumper will probably make no difference whether it's on or off but you can try both ways to see if it makes any difference.

Note that it's not really within the scope of this document to troubleshoot Vixen/dongle/cabling issues - please go through some of the Wiki documentation and if at all possible, try to confirm on a working piece of equipment before troubleshooting something that isn't broken to begin with. It's assumed at this point that to the best of your knowledge that everything up to the "IN" jack is in working order.

Configure a short Vixen sequence with a slow on/off sequence for each channel - 1 second on, 1 second off. Alternate the odd channels so that they are the opposite polarity of the even channels. In other words, when channel 1 is ON, channel 2 is OFF or when channel 2 is ON, channel 1 is off. Create a 48-channel sequence in this fashion so you can test all PICs at once. With the sequence running, measure the outputs of the PIC at pins 1, 13, 12, 11, 10, 9, 8 and 7. You should see each pin alternate from 0v to 5v once a second matching the sequence. If this is not the case, then sequencing data is not being received by the PIC(s).

Measure the voltage at pin 5 on PIC #1 (U1) with the same sequence running (from ground). it should be alternating between 0v and 5v and not be stuck at one or the other. If it appears stuck, then inspect the "IN" RS-485 chip at U7 (and the entire path from it to pin 5 on PIC #1/U1 pin 5) and ensure there are no bent pins (including the RJ45 jack itself), cold solder joints. Swap the two chips at U7 and U8 ("OUT" RS-485) to see if that resolves the issue. If the failure is in-between channels, then perform the same check on pin 5 on all PICs. For PICs #2-6, pin 5 is fed from pin 6 on the preceding PIC. In other words PIC 1, pin 6 feeds PIC 2, pin 5 and down the line so it could be an issue with the preceding PIC. Swap PICs around to see if that helps - otherwise it is probably a soldering issue.

If the problem is with a daisy-chained controller FROM this Ren48LSD, then inspect the RS-485 "OUT" chip closely at U8 for bent pins, solder issues, etc. Check the output RJ45 jack at J14 for crossed pins. Swap the RS-485 chip between U7 and U8 to see if that helps. Note that ALL output from the Ren48LSD is at RS-485 levels so the daisy-chained controller should not have the RS-232 jumper enabled.

===Output Drivers===
It's assumed at this point that you have checked that a sequence can drive the PIC outputs properly between 0 and 5v OK. With the PIC(s) removed and power on, connect a ''known good device'' (flood, RGB strip, etc) to the output socket(s) in question.

Use a piece of hookup wire and connect the wire from pin 1 to the following pins:

:Pin 3 - channel 1/9/17/25/33/41
:Pin 13 - channel 2/10/18/26/34/42
:Pin 12 - channel 3/11/19/27/35/43
:Pin 11 - channel 4/12/20/28/36/44
:Pin 10 - channel 5/13/21/29/37/45
:Pin 9 - channel 6/14/22/30/38/46
:Pin 8 - channel 7/15/23/31/39/47
:Pin 7 - channel 8/16/24/32/40/48

After connecting the wire to the output pins, the device should turn on. If it does not, then it's possible the output driver (transistor) is bad. Check the path from the PIC output pin you are testing through the 470 ohm resistor and to the base of the transistor in question. The nomenclature (name) of the transistor matches the channel number so "Q23" is for channel 23. Replacements may have been included with your kit or you can get them at RadioShack - most MPS2222a, PN2222A or 2N3904 types can be subsituted. If you have multiple transistors bad, then you should investigate how this happened before replacing the transistors since there's a good chance they will simply blow again.

==FAQ==

Q1: What if I only have 6 strips and won't be using ports 7-12?

A1: Well - you're in luck! Next to PIC #3 and PIC #6 is a via hole that will bypass PICs #4 - #6 if you install a wire between them. Note that this is only necessary if you are planning to daisy-chain another board from this one. This effectively makes this a Ren24LSD. If you are not going to daisy-chain another board, you can leave it off as well as the RS-485 output chip. Personally, I think this is false economy since you'll have to dig the parts up if you change your mind and want to run a board off this one. In either case, you certainly save time and money by not installing the PICs, sockets, transistors, resistors and output connectors for strips 7-12 if you don't have them.

[[File:Ren48LSD-v3c-Construction-Bypass.png]]

Q2: Can I use standard DIY SSRs with the Ren48LSD?

A2: You can use DC SSRs but not AC SSRs. AC SSRs cannot be used as they require synchronization to the AC power line using a zero-cross signal from the controller. The Ren48LSD does not have an AC present since it only uses a DC power supply. While it can turn on/off/dim the AC SSR, since it is not synced the TRIACs will turn on/off at the wrong times during the AC cycle and it will look terrible. DC SSRs can be used just fine - however there is one caveat in that pin 7 is not connected to ground as with other controllers (it is in fact tied to +DC). This means that the 'active' indicator used on most DC SSRs (indicating it is connected to a controller) will not work correctly. This does not affect operation at all however so they can be used with on/off/dimming just fine.

----

==Schematic==

'''NOTE - the schematic below has an error on the input circuitry but the board itself is correct. Use the RenSS (any) schematic for the communication circuitry for now.'''

Here is the schematic drawing for the Ren48LSD v3c in PDF format - [[File:Ren48LSD-v3c-Schematic.pdf]]

----
--[[User:Budude|Budude]] 03:08, 4 June 2010 (UTC)

[[Category:DIYC Controllers]]
[[Category:Renard]]
[[Category:Renard 48LSD]]
[[Category:DIYC Index]]

Ren48LSDv3c

2013-08-31T18:41:47Z

Budude: /* FAQ */

=Ren48LSD (v3c) Construction Manual=

'''For information on the older version of this board (v3b) please go to [[Ren48LSD]].''' This page is for the v3c version of the board.

==''What'' is the Ren48LSD?==
The Ren48LSD ('''L'''ED '''S'''trip '''D'''river) controller came about as a solution to drive Frank's LED Super Strips. Originally I used [[DCSSR|DCSSRs]] to drive them and while it's a workable solution, it tends to be somewhat bulky and requires lots of additional wiring between the controller and DCSSRs as well as to the strips themselves. Another alternative is [[Renard 24LV|Frank's Ren24LV]] which uses ULN2803 drivers. The issue with this solution is that it has limitations in how much power it can sink to the strips due to the ULN2803 package power dissipation.

The strips require up to 360mA per output (18 LEDs x 20mA) so I used an NPN bipolar transistor to drive them. The transistors support up to 600mA maximum but should be limited to 400mA per output overall due to trace/connector maximums. The transistors are fairly cheap so it makes for a simple, inexpensive solution. The controller design used the [[The_Renard_SS24_Controller_Board|Ren24SS]] as a base, using the same PIC, clocking and serial interface configuration but expanded to 6 PICs to support 48 channels or driving up to 12 strips per board. Because of this, the controller supports standard [[Renard_Firmware#Regular_Firmware|Renard protocol FW]] using RS-232/485 as well as the [[Renard_Firmware#DMX_firmware|DMX]] version. The board requires either a 5vdc well regulated supply or a good 9-24vdc supply. The input supply also drives the LED strips.

'''For information on the previous version of this board (v3b) please go to [[Ren48LSD]].''' This page is for the v3c version of the board.

==How does the Ren48LSD work?==
The Ren48LSD uses the same architecture for the logic portions of the board from the RenardSS series of boards. Sequence information is passed from a PC running Vixen or other sequencing program via an RS-232 or RS-485/DMX interface. The ST485 chips receive this information and turn into standard TTL logic levels that the PIC can understand. The PIC reads in the data and if it determines that the information corresponds to itself, it updates the dimming levels of all 8 channels. It removes this information from the stream and feeds the rest out to the next PIC and that one performs the same. This is repeated for all 6 PICs. The last PIC, PIC 6, feeds what's left of the stream out to the other ST485 chip which translates it to RS-485 levels for the next controller in the line. It is important to realize that the information is removed from the stream and that the resultant leftover stream will have all of the data offset by the 48 channels of information used by the Ren48LSD. For example, if you have two Ren48LSDs, on Vixen you would configure a single Renard/DMX plug-in with 96 channels. The first Ren48LSD consumes the first 48 channels of information leaving only 48 channels on it's outputs. The second Ren48LSD will see this incoming data as controller #1 again and assume the data is for it. This is very much different than standard hard/soft-coded DMX or LOR devices that use a set address yet still pass on the entire stream to the next controller on the line. There are advantages and disadvantages to either approach - but you should be aware of this when combining normal DMX devices before/after a Ren48LSD (or any Renard controller running DMX code).

The PICs receive the data on pin 5 and after consuming their 8 channels of data, forward the rest out of pin 6 of the PIC which in turn goes to pin 5 of the next PIC. PIC #6 or the last PIC feeds the next controller if you have one attached as mentioned above. All of the PICs are fed the same clock from the external oscillator.

The logic portions of the board require a steady +5vdc supply. This can be supplied in two ways on the Ren48LSD. If you use a well-regulated +5vdc power supply, you skip installing all of the regulator circuitry and install a jumper across the +5vdc bypass connector. This will feed the power from the DC IN 1 jack directly to the logic components. Obviously care must be taken to ONLY use a 5vdc supply - if a 12v supply is connected in this configuration, you will probably lose all of your PICs, ST485 chips and the Oscillator in one shot. If you are planning to use a 9-24vdc supply then you must install the regulator circuitry. This allows the power supplied on the DC IN 1 connector to be converted down to +5vdc for the logic components. It is important to realize that the 5v created is only used by the logic components, it is NOT sent out to the outputs of the Ren48LSD. The outputs always follow whatever you place on DC IN 1 and DC IN 2. The two connectors are separated so it is possible to run different voltages on DC IN 1 and DC IN 2 (say 5v and 12v). Here again, extreme caution must be taken to ensure you do not mix up supplies or plug your device into the wrong outputs (say a 5v strip into a 12v output). In addition, you must ensure that the two power supplies will work harmoniously with a shared ground connection since the ground plane is shared between DC IN 1 and DC IN 2.

So - now that the PICs have the updated dimming levels for all of it's channels, it enables each of its outputs using PWM or Pulse Width Modulation. It is important to grasp that the voltage levels are not controlled - it is the amount of time on and off that is varied within a small cycle of time for each update. It seems logical that to dim things you would just change the voltage from 12v to 9v for example. Instead, the voltage is on at the full 12v for x amount of time and then it is off (0v) for the y amount of time - it is not something in-between. The cycle time is controlled by the PIC in the case of the Ren48LSD. In RenardSS boards, they use a Zero-Cross (ZC) signal which is created by an opto-isolator attached to the AC line (either directly to the mains or via a transformer and in both cases through some resistors to limit the current to the opto). Since the Ren48LSD does not have any AC supplied to it, the PIC basically makes up it's own timing but it closely resembles what is seen with normal ZC usage.

The Ren48LSD uses sourced outputs and not sinked outputs like the RenardSS controllers. Why is this? Because the PIC needs to turn on a transistor and to do this, it supplies 5v on it's output which turns on the transistor (via a resistor to limit the current) which allows current to flow from the collector to the emitter of the transistor. The emitter is directly connected to ground so basically, the transistor sinks the current from the LEDs (or whatever you have attached to the output) to ground. The positive voltage from the DC power supply connects directly to the device you have attached and this completes the circuit.

==Revision History==
The main changes from the v3b version of the board are a newly designed voltage regulator circuit. It was found on the v3b that the standard LM7805 regulator would get very hot when fully loaded at 12v (the v3b only supported 5vdc or 9-12vdc input). When fully on, the device sat at it's peak temperature of about 120 degC. I came up with a few workarounds which addressed this (see the v3b page) but for the next revision, I decided to change the regulator completely. Instead of using a linear 7805 regulator, I went with the LM2575-5 switching regulator. While it requires a few more parts (a coil, diodes and low ESR filter capacitors) it does allow the v3c version of the board to go up to 24vdc at full load. The regulator stays well within the temperature specs and in normal operation does not even get warm.

You do have to decide prior to building the board whether you will be using +5vdc or 9-24vdc as your input supply source (specifically to DC IN 1). If you are going with 5vdc, then you don't need any of the regulator circuit components - in fact you should specifically leave them off the board. There is a bypass jumper block on the board that bypasses the +5v from DC IN 1 directly to the logic on the board so you must install that block and jumper that as well. If you are going with 9-24vdc then you do need to install all of the regulator circuit to provide 5v to the logic on the board (PICs, Oscillator, RS485 chips).

==Ren48LSD (v3c) Parts==
In addition to the [http://www.diyledexpress.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=3&products_id=68 PCB], you will need the following components:

<table border="1"><tr><td>'''Mouser BOM'''</td></tr>
<tr><td>Mouser PN</td><td>Description</td><td>Qty</td></tr>
<tr><td>579-PIC16F688-I/P</td><td>Microcontrollers (MCU) 7KB 256 RAM 12 I/O</td><td>6</td></tr>
<tr><td>571-1-390261-3</td><td>IC & Component Sockets 14P ECONOMY TIN</td><td>6</td></tr>
<tr><td>511-ST485BN</td><td>Buffers & Line Drivers Hi-Spd Lo Pwr Trans</td><td>2</td></tr>
<tr><td>571-1-390261-2</td><td>IC & Component Sockets 8P ECONOMY TIN</td><td>2</td></tr>
<tr><td>520-TCH1843-X</td><td>ECS-2100AX-18.432MHZ</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>863-MPS2222AG</td><td>Bipolar Transistors 600mA 75V NPN</td><td>48</td></tr>
<tr><td>78-1N5239B</td><td>Zener Diodes 9.1 Volt 0.5 Watt</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>78-1N5229B</td><td>Zener Diodes 4.3 Volt 0.5 Watt</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>863-1N5819G</td><td>Schottky (Diodes & Rectifiers) 1A 40V</td><td>2</td></tr>
<tr><td>863-LM2575TV-5G</td><td>Switching Converters, Regulators & Controllers 5V 1A PWR SW REG</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>532-577102B00</td><td>Heatsinks TO-220 HORIZ/VERT SLIM CHANNEL STYLE</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>604-WP7113ID</td><td>Standard LED - Through Hole HI EFF RED DIFFUSED</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>581-SA105E104MAR</td><td>Multilayer Ceramic Capacitors (MLCC) - Leaded 50volts 0.1uF 20% Z5U</td><td>9</td></tr>
<tr><td>667-ELC-18B331L</td><td>Power Inductors 330UH RADIAL COIL CHOKE</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>140-RXJ331M1CBK1012P</td><td>Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - Leaded 16V 330uF 105C 10x12.5 mm</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>140-RXJ101M1HBK1016P</td><td>Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - Leaded 50V 100uF 105C 10x16 mm</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>299-680-RC</td><td>Carbon Film Resistors 680ohms</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>299-120-RC</td><td>Carbon Film Resistors 120ohms</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>299-27K-RC</td><td>Carbon Film Resistors 27Kohms</td><td>2</td></tr>
<tr><td>299-1K-RC</td><td>Carbon Film Resistors 1.0Kohms</td><td>2</td></tr>
<tr><td>299-470-RC</td><td>Carbon Film Resistors 470ohms</td><td>48</td></tr>
<tr><td>299-10K-RC</td><td>Carbon Film Resistors 10Kohms</td><td>6</td></tr>
<tr><td>571-5556416-1</td><td>Telecom & Ethernet Connectors 8 PCB TOP ENTRY</td><td>14</td></tr>
<tr><td>571-7969492</td><td>Terminal Blocks 5.08MM VERTICAL 2P wire protector</td><td>3</td></tr>
<tr><td>571-5-146281-2</td><td>Headers & Wire Housings 2 P HEADER GOLD 30u single row</td><td>2</td></tr>
<tr><td>649-65474-002LF</td><td>Headers & Wire Housings SHUNT TIN</td><td>1</td></tr>
</table>

[http://www.mouser.com:80/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=76c8f3ed18 Click here for Mouser Direct Project BOM]

Most of the components are not overly critical and some can be omitted in certain
cases. The electrolytic capacitors must only be subsituted with low-ESR versions only. Failure to do so could result in instability in the regulation circuit. If you are using a well regulated 5vdc supply, the voltage regulator, 1N5819 diodes (2), 330uH coil, and 100uf capacitor should not be installed. This will require a jumper to be placed across the +5vdc bypass terminal block which effectively shunts DC IN 1 directly to the board logic.

The BOM is available from [http://www.diyledexpress.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=3 DIYLEDExpress.com] 

'''NOTE - If you recently purchased a Ren48LSD board from diyledexpress then you should know that there was a slight mistake on the board files. Pin 7 of ALL the RJ45 outputs is not connected to anything. To use that pin, you must run a small jumper from pin 5 to pin 7 or simply blob up some solder between the two pins. This will ensure the common V+ is distributed properly to all four odd pins on the outputs.'''

==Building the Ren48LSD==

The Ren48LSD requires a fair bit of soldering so take your time and ensure you
install the components in the correct orientation when required. Start by sorting
the components by type and values. Look over the PCB before starting noting the
location of the various components. Follow the standard procedure of installing
the lowest profile parts first and ending up with the tallest.

[[File:Ren48LSD-v3c-Construction-0.png]]

1. Install the six 10k resistors near each PIC

[[File:Ren48LSD-v3c-Build-01a.jpg|850px]]

2. Install the two 1k resistors near the 485 chips

[[File:Ren48LSD-v3c-Build-02a.jpg|850px]]

3. Install the two 27k resistors near the 485 chips

[[File:Ren48LSD-v3c-Build-03a.jpg|850px]]

4. Install the one 120 resistor near the 485 chips

[[File:Ren48LSD-v3c-Build-04a.jpg|850px]]

5. Install the one 680 resistor near the LED

[[File:Ren48LSD-v3c-Build-05a.jpg|850px]]

6. Install the 1N5229 diode near the 485 chips – note the correct orientation - the band on the diode goes towards the top of the board in the square hole.

[[File:Ren48LSD-v3c-Build-06a.jpg|850px]]

7. Install the 1N5239 diode near the 485 chips – note the correct orientation - the band on the diode goes towards the top of the board in the square hole.

[[File:Ren48LSD-v3c-Build-07a.jpg|850px]]

8. Install the two 1N5819 diodes near the voltage regulator '''(Do not install for 5vdc input)''' – note the correct orientation - the diode closest to DCIN1 has the band on the diode facing down and in the square hole, the diode closest to the choke has the band on the diode facing right and in the square hole.

[[File:Ren48LSD-v3c-Build-08a.jpg|850px]]

9. Install all forty-eight 470 ohm resistors doing 4-8 at a time.

[[File:Ren48LSD-v3c-Build-09a.jpg|850px]]

10. Install the nine decoupling capacitors near the IC sockets and oscillator. Note that the silkscreen says ".01uF" - in fact they are 0.1uF (100nF).

[[File:Ren48LSD-v3c-Build-10a.jpg|850px]]

11. Install the six 14-pin PIC chip sockets - note the correct orientation - the top 3 sockets have the notch facing towards the left, and the bottom 3 sockets have the notch facing the right.

[[File:Ren48LSD-v3c-Build-11a.jpg|850px]]

12. Install the two 8-pin 485 chip sockets - note the correct orientation - the notch faces to the right side of the board towards the PICs.

[[File:Ren48LSD-v3c-Build-12a.jpg|850px]]

13. Install the 18.432MHz oscillator – note the correct orientation - the package has one square corner (and a dot) and that goes into the square hole on the board

[[File:Ren48LSD-v3c-Build-13a.jpg|850px]]

14. Install the 48 transistors – note the correct orientation – the emitter is nearest the PICs, base in the middle and collector near the RJ45 jacks. The legs of the transistors will need to be bent slightly to fit the holes. The middle leg will end up being out in front of the flat side of the transistor.

[[File:Ren48LSD-v3c-Build-14a.jpg|850px]]

15. Install the two 2-pin shunt jumpers

[[File:Ren48LSD-v3c-Build-15a.jpg|850px]]

16. Install the LED – note correct orientation - the flat side of the LED faces the bottom of the board and the shorter leg goes into the square hole.

[[File:Ren48LSD-v3c-Build-16a.jpg|850px]]

17. Install the DC input terminal blocks – note correct orientation - have the side where the power wires will be inserted facing to the right.

[[File:Ren48LSD-v3c-Build-17a.jpg|850px]]

18. Install the +5vdc bypass block '''(Install for 5vdc input)'''

[[File:Ren48LSD-v3c-Build-18a.jpg|850px]]

Note that if you are using a regulated 5vdc power supply for your input, you should omit installing most of the regulator circuitry.

19. Install the LM2575 regulator '''(Do not install for 5vdc input)''' - note correct orientation - pin 1 is denoted by the square pad - the odd number pins are the pins farthest away from the back

[[File:Ren48LSD-v3c-Build-19a.jpg|850px]]

20. Install the 100uF/50v capacitor '''(Do not install for 5vdc input)''' – note correct orientation - the capacitor has a stripe on the side denoting the negative leg that goes in the round hole.

[[File:Ren48LSD-v3c-Build-20a.jpg|850px]]

21. Install the 330uF/16v capacitor – note correct orientation - the capacitor has a stripe on the side denoting the negative leg that goes in the round hole.

[[File:Ren48LSD-v3c-Build-21a.jpg|850px]]

22. Mount the 5v regulator heat sink if you installed the regulator – use a small amount of heat sink compound

23. Install the choke coil - there is no polarity, it can be installed in either direction '''(Do not install for 5vdc input)'''

[[File:Ren48LSD-v3c-Build-22.jpg|850px]]

24. Install the fourteen RJ45 jacks – note that side-entry jacks can be substituted

[[File:Ren48LSD-v3c-Build-23a.jpg|850px]]

Congratulations! That completes the construction of the Ren48LSD!

==Initial Testing==
The first thing you will want to do in any PCB construction project is to double check that you have all components installed and in the proper orientation. You will then want to inspect the board for any cold/bridged solder joints. Take your time with this step and go over each and every joint.

If you have any of the IC's installed - remove them now. Connect your power supply to the “DC IN 1” - it supplies power to controller portion of the board as well as strip outputs 1-6. “DC IN 2” is a separate input to drive strips 7-12. Note that the ground is shared between the two inputs. If you are using a well regulated +5vdc power supply as your power input, the regulator circuit should not be installed. However, you must manually bypass this by placing a jumper wire between the +5vdc bypass terminal block. Turn on the supply and verify the power LED lights up. Verify you have 5v between pins 1 and 14 on each PIC socket as well as between pins 5 and 8 on the 485 chip sockets. Install all of the IC's if this passes.

==Programming the PIC controllers==
The Ren48LSD does not supply or use a ZeroCross input and therefore the Renard firmware (either Renard or DMX protocol) must be configured for DC/PWM
operation. In addition, if you are using the DMX firmware, you may want to set the initial starting address but generally, this can be left at '1' for all PICs since the code is self-addressing. Also – like the ULN2803 drivers, the transistors invert the output so the firmware uses positive outputs.

===Renard Protocol===
Obtain the standard Renard firmware [http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/images/d/d3/Renard-20071229.asm here:]

Make the following changes:

#define PWM_build 1 – change from '0'
#define DC_build 1 – change from '0'
#define CTR_LOCKOUT 1 – change from '15'
;#define OUTPUT_NEGATIVE_TRUE – comment this out

Compile the code into hex code and program all six PICs with the same code. A standard version of the code with the settings above has been compiled already for you in the File Library available [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/dynamics/attachment.php?attachmentid=207&d=1280420686 here].

===Renard-DMX Protocol===
Obtain the DMX Renard firmware from [http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/images/e/ea/Renard-dmx-20080814.asm here:]

#define DC_build 1 – change from '0'
#define CTR_LOCKOUT 0 – change from '40'
#define SINK_map 0x00 – change from '0xFF'

If you want to change the DMX starting address then alter it below – this is only required on the first PIC in the chain. If you have multiple Ren48LSD controllers, you can leave the second/subsequent PICs at '1' and they will automatically start off where the last PIC left off.

#define DMX_START_ADDRESS 1

Compile the code into hex code and program all six PICs with the same code (unless using a starting address). A standard version of the code with the settings above has been compiled already for you in the File Library available [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/dynamics/attachment.php?attachmentid=206&d=1280420686 here].

Whichever firmware you choose, install the flashed PICs into the sockets noting the correct orientation. Also install the two 485 chips into their sockets noting the correct orientation. You are now ready for final testing.

==Final Testing==
I chose not to design in the diagnostic LEDs as those used on the RenSS series of controllers. The design is fairly straight-forward and as long as you are sure of the voltage inputs and the PICs are flashed properly you should not have any issues if your soldering is good.

If you are using RS232, you should install the shunt on the "RS232" header which shorts pin 5 of the RJ45-IN connector to ground for proper RS232 operation. The wiring is the same as the RenardSS series so you can follow the cabling requiremnents for that.

As the Renard controller variations do not use bussed DMX it's not critical to install the DMX termination shunt if you are only using Renard controllers. This is because they are using point-to-point configurations. However - if this particular controller is at the end of a line of other normal (bussed) DMX devices, you should install the shunt to properly terminate the bus.

I'm assuming at this point that you have built one or more of the LED SuperStrips to test with. If not - - well - - do it... Note that the strips have one caveat – I have found that the LED colors go in Red, Blue, Green and White order – not Red, Green, Blue and White order. The RJ45 outputs are as follows:

#Common +DC
#Red Ground
#Common +DC
#Blue Ground
#Common +DC
#Green Ground
#Common +DC
#White Ground

What does this mean to you? Well – if you use standard straight-thru RJ45/Ethernet cables, the color order will be RBGW channel order in Vixen so if you want to use an RGBW order, you'll need to change the channel order in Vixen. The other alternative (and the way I do it) is to swap pins 4 and 6 at one end of the RJ45 cable. I did this because I thought it made more sense to keep the natural pin order versus color order. Note that pins 1, 3, 5 and 7 are tied together both on the PCB as well as the strips – there is no way to have separate +DC runs with the strips.

Connect the Ren48LSD to your PC using standard wiring practices as on the Wiki for other Renard controllers. Develop a Vixen sequence to turn on/off each channel in groups of four using the appropriate Renard/DMX plug-in. Channels 1, 5, 9, etc should have the same programming but only have 1 channel in the group (1,2,3,4) on at a time. This helps ensure you have unique channel
addressing from each RJ45 output.

With the sequence running, plug in a strip into each RJ45 and ensure each color turns on in order (remember that the B & G colors are swapped). Once that is complete you change the on/off to ramp up/downs to verify dimming operation. Finally, you can perform a full load test with 12 strips installed.

The Ren48LSD can be used to drive other devices as well of course. The MightyMini floods can be wired using normal RGBW wiring since the MM end of the cable goes into terminal blocks versus an RJ45 jack. Another popular flood is the ChristmasOnManor Rainbow Flood. This is an RGB (no white) flood so it only uses 3 channels. The wiring uses pins 2, 4 and 8 to drive Red, Green and Blue. Note that pin 6 - or the 3rd channel is not used here. You have a few choices - in Vixen simply skip that channel, or if you really want to use that channel, you will need to do some creative cabling or not use the RJ45 jacks at all and wire the 3 channels directly to the board. You can also alter the code in the PIC to only use 6 channels but this probably isn't worth the effort of changing the code.

==TroubleShooting==
So - you've built your new Ren48LSD, connected it up to your computer and tried a quick sequence and nothing happens! There are several checks to perform in order:

===Visual Inspection===
The very first step involves a close visual inspection of the board. Double check that you have the correct component in the correct location and in the correct orientation. Look at every single solder connection and if some are not shiny or look suspect - reflow them to be sure.
===Power===
Measure across pins 1 and 14 on all PIC sockets (U1 -> U6) - it should read 5v

Measure across pins 5 and 8 on both RS-485 sockets (U7, U8) - it should read 5v

If you do not measure 5v and you are using the "+5VDC BYPASS" feature, then ensure your supply is actually providing 5v at the "DC IN 1" terminal block.

If you do not measure 5v and you are using the regulator circuit, then ensure you are providing at least 7.5vdc (and up to 24vdc) into the "DC IN 1" terminal block from your supply. If that's OK, then inspect the soldering all around the regulator, coil, diodes and filter capacitors on the right hand side of the board. Ensure the filter capacitors, diodes and regulator were installed with the correct orientation.

===PIC Programming===
Reflash your PICs with the .hex file from this Wiki page or the File Library - perform a 'Verify' to be sure it's not blank
===Clocking===
With all six PICs installed, measure the voltage from pin 14 (gnd) to pin 2 (OSC) on all PICs - it should read around 2.5v (+/- 0.3v). If it appears to be stuck at 0 or 5v, then you probably have a soldering issue, the oscillator was installed with the incorrect orientation or the oscillator is bad. There should be 5v between the upper left and lower right pins on the oscillator (as viewed from the top of the board shown above).

Another possible reason for seeing close to 5v on pin 2 is that none of the PICs have been programmed properly. This is due to no loading of the output from the oscillator. Before replacing the oscillator, re-verify that the PICs have been programmed.

===Communications===
From Vixen, ensure you have the appropriate plug-in selected and configured. If you are using Renard/Serial code, you should have the "Renard Dimmer (modified)" selected using Protocol Version 1 and the correct COM port selected for your serial port. Ensure the baud rate is 57600 (if using the standard image), 8-bits, no parity, no stop bits and that it matches the port settings in the Windows Control Panel (Device Manager) as well. Ensure your cabling is correct from the Wiki documentation for Renard (it is the same as the RenSS series). Ensure the "RS232" jumper is ON and that the "TERM" jumper is OFF.

If you are using Renard/DMX code, you should have either the "Enttec Open DMX" or "Enttec DMX USB Pro" plug-in selected (unless you are using E1.31 which is beyond this document). Ensure your DMX dongle is seen as a COM port (unplug/plug in to be sure while Vixen is not up) and the plug-in is configured to match the port number. The baud rate settings are not used for DMX (it's always 250Kbps). If using the Enttec Open dongle, you need to configure the DMX Add-In as well so that the data is streamed to the device.Ensure your cabling is correct from the Wiki documentation for Renard (it is the same as the RenSS series). Ensure the "RS232" jumper is OFF. The "TERM" jumper will probably make no difference whether it's on or off but you can try both ways to see if it makes any difference.

Note that it's not really within the scope of this document to troubleshoot Vixen/dongle/cabling issues - please go through some of the Wiki documentation and if at all possible, try to confirm on a working piece of equipment before troubleshooting something that isn't broken to begin with. It's assumed at this point that to the best of your knowledge that everything up to the "IN" jack is in working order.

Configure a short Vixen sequence with a slow on/off sequence for each channel - 1 second on, 1 second off. Alternate the odd channels so that they are the opposite polarity of the even channels. In other words, when channel 1 is ON, channel 2 is OFF or when channel 2 is ON, channel 1 is off. Create a 48-channel sequence in this fashion so you can test all PICs at once. With the sequence running, measure the outputs of the PIC at pins 1, 13, 12, 11, 10, 9, 8 and 7. You should see each pin alternate from 0v to 5v once a second matching the sequence. If this is not the case, then sequencing data is not being received by the PIC(s).

Measure the voltage at pin 5 on PIC #1 (U1) with the same sequence running (from ground). it should be alternating between 0v and 5v and not be stuck at one or the other. If it appears stuck, then inspect the "IN" RS-485 chip at U7 (and the entire path from it to pin 5 on PIC #1/U1 pin 5) and ensure there are no bent pins (including the RJ45 jack itself), cold solder joints. Swap the two chips at U7 and U8 ("OUT" RS-485) to see if that resolves the issue. If the failure is in-between channels, then perform the same check on pin 5 on all PICs. For PICs #2-6, pin 5 is fed from pin 6 on the preceding PIC. In other words PIC 1, pin 6 feeds PIC 2, pin 5 and down the line so it could be an issue with the preceding PIC. Swap PICs around to see if that helps - otherwise it is probably a soldering issue.

If the problem is with a daisy-chained controller FROM this Ren48LSD, then inspect the RS-485 "OUT" chip closely at U8 for bent pins, solder issues, etc. Check the output RJ45 jack at J14 for crossed pins. Swap the RS-485 chip between U7 and U8 to see if that helps. Note that ALL output from the Ren48LSD is at RS-485 levels so the daisy-chained controller should not have the RS-232 jumper enabled.

===Output Drivers===
It's assumed at this point that you have checked that a sequence can drive the PIC outputs properly between 0 and 5v OK. With the PIC(s) removed and power on, connect a ''known good device'' (flood, RGB strip, etc) to the output socket(s) in question.

Use a piece of hookup wire and connect the wire from pin 1 to the following pins:

:Pin 3 - channel 1/9/17/25/33/41
:Pin 13 - channel 2/10/18/26/34/42
:Pin 12 - channel 3/11/19/27/35/43
:Pin 11 - channel 4/12/20/28/36/44
:Pin 10 - channel 5/13/21/29/37/45
:Pin 9 - channel 6/14/22/30/38/46
:Pin 8 - channel 7/15/23/31/39/47
:Pin 7 - channel 8/16/24/32/40/48

After connecting the wire to the output pins, the device should turn on. If it does not, then it's possible the output driver (transistor) is bad. Check the path from the PIC output pin you are testing through the 470 ohm resistor and to the base of the transistor in question. The nomenclature (name) of the transistor matches the channel number so "Q23" is for channel 23. Replacements may have been included with your kit or you can get them at RadioShack - most MPS2222a, PN2222A or 2N3904 types can be subsituted. If you have multiple transistors bad, then you should investigate how this happened before replacing the transistors since there's a good chance they will simply blow again.

==FAQ==

Q1: What if I only have 6 strips and won't be using ports 7-12?

A1: Well - you're in luck! Next to PIC #3 and PIC #6 is a via hole that will bypass PICs #4 - #6 if you install a wire between them. Note that this is only necessary if you are planning to daisy-chain another board from this one. This effectively makes this a Ren24LSD. If you are not going to daisy-chain another board, you can leave it off as well as the RS-485 output chip. Personally, I think this is false economy since you'll have to dig the parts up if you change your mind and want to run a board off this one. In either case, you certainly save time and money by not installing the PICs, sockets, transistors, resistors and output connectors for strips 7-12 if you don't have them.

[[File:Ren48LSD-v3c-Construction-Bypass.png]]

Q2: Can I use standard DIY SSRs with the Ren48LSD?

A2: You can use DC SSRs but not AC SSRs. AC SSRs cannot be used as they require synchronization to the AC power line using a zero-cross signal from the controller. The Ren48LSD does not have an AC present since it only uses a DC power supply. While it can turn on/off/dim the AC SSR, since it is not synced the TRIACs will turn on/off at the wrong times during the AC cycle and it will look terrible. DC SSRs can be used just fine - however there is one caveat in that pin 7 is not connected to ground as with other controllers (it is in fact tied to +DC). This means that the 'active' indicator used on most DC SSRs (indicating it is connected to a controller) will not work correctly. This does not affect operation at all however so they can be used with on/off/dimming just fine.

----

==Schematic==

'''NOTE - the schematic below has an error on the input circuitry but the board itself is correct. Use the RenSS (any) schematic for the communication circuitry for now.'''

Here is the schematic drawing for the Ren48LSD v3c in PDF format - [[File:Ren48LSD-v3c-Schematic.pdf]]

----
--[[User:Budude|Budude]] 03:08, 4 June 2010 (UTC)

[[Category:DIYC Controllers]]
[[Category:Renard]]
[[Category:Renard 48LSD]]
[[Category:DIYC Index]]

E68X-to-DMX

2013-07-20T18:15:25Z

Budude: /* E68X-to-DMX Adapter */

==E68X-to-DMX Adapter==

The E68X-to-DMX Adapter as the name implies, converts the TTL logic level of the DMX Raw data stream from the E68x controller and converts it to the proper RS-485 levels. The E68x can be configured to send a raw DMX data stream to the first pixel controller connector in a group. The output is a single-ended TTL level (5v) which is not suitable for direct connection to a DMX RS-485 network. This adapter takes that input and converts it to the proper differential output required. This initial version is a simple design and does not emply any isolation at the input or outputs to the RS-485 line. This was done to keep costs to a minimum and keep the board small. Later versions may include full isolation if there's enough demand for it.

===Schematic===
The schematic is quite simple and contains few parts. It can be made quite cheaply by replacing certain jumpers, etc with wires. The output jumper layout to support both Renard or DMX wiring schemes was taken from member RPM's E1.31-Renard/DMX bridge. Setting all of the jumpers one way uses the pseudo standard RJ45 DMX format with D+/D- on 1/2 and ground on 7. Setting all the jumpers the other way selects Renard format with D+/D- on 4/5 and ground on 1/2. Note that in both cases, it is still DMX output - this just saves you from making a special cable so that straight Cat5 patch cables can be used. The board includes an optional 78L05 voltage regulator that can be used if you exclusively use 12v pixels. This will convert the voltage to 5v for the RS485 chip but can be bypassed if you have 5v pixels.
 
[[File:E68XTODMX-SCH-V1D.jpg|680px|E68XTODMX Schematic]]
 
Here is the current [http://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=8335f174c6 BOM] for the adapter

===Board Layout===
The board layout is very straight forward with a pixel connector and reguator (optional) at one end, an RS-485 chip in the middle and an output jumper setup with RJ45 to DMX connector at the end. Two methods of connections to the E68x are possible. The first consists of a standard 4-contact terminal block that can be wired back to the removable block that plugs into the E68x. The other method consists of running a 20 gauge or so wires down from the board and terminating them directly into a removable block that can be plugged directly into the E68x. This latter method saves on the terminal block and keeps the setup quite neat. Only 3 wires are used (+5v, Ground, Data) but a 4-wire connector was used so it would physically match up to the connector (1.5mm pitch) on the E68x.
 
[[File:E68XTODMX-BRD-V1D.jpg|680px|E68X-DMX Schematic]]
 

===Assembly===
 E68XTODMX KIT 1 CONTENTS
 [[File:E68XTODMX-01.JPG|680px|E68XTODMX KIT1 CONTENTS]]
 E68XTODMX KIT 2 CONTENTS
 [[File:E68XTODMX-02.JPG|680px|E68XTODMX KIT2 CONTENTS]]
 E68XTODMX PCB
 [[File:E68XTODMX-03.JPG|680px|E68XTODMX PCB]]
 Install the 120 ohm resistor - there is no polarity
 Install a wire jumper instead of the 7805 regulator if you are using 5v pixel power - do NOT install if using 12v pixel power
 [[File:E68XTODMX-04.JPG|680px|]]
 Install the three 100nF decoupling capacitors - there is no polarity
 [[File:E68XTODMX-05.JPG|680px|]]
 Install the 8-pin DIP Socket
 [[File:E68XTODMX-06.JPG|680px|]]
 Install the two 2x3 headers horizontally
 [[File:E68XTODMX-07.JPG|680px|]]
 Install the four shunts - all four on left for DMX or all four on right for Renard output wiring
 [[File:E68XTODMX-08.JPG|680px|]]
 If you are not using the 4-pin terminal block, take four pieces of wire and bend the ends over as shown
 [[File:E68XTODMX-09.JPG|680px|]]
 Insert the wires and solder them in
 [[File:E68XTODMX-10.JPG|680px|]]
 Here are the four wires shown from the bottom
 [[File:E68XTODMX-11.JPG|680px|]]
 Trim the four wires to about 1/2" or so
 [[File:E68XTODMX-12.JPG|680px|]]
 Insert the four wires into the Terminal Block provided from your E681
 [[File:E68XTODMX-13.JPG|680px|]]
 Install the RJ45 connector
 [[File:E68XTODMX-14.JPG|680px|]]
 Completed E68XTODMX Adaptor (5v version)
 [[File:E68XTODMX-16.JPG|680px|]]
 If you are using 12V Pixel power, install the 7805 regulator
 [[File:E68XTODMX-17.JPG|680px|]]
 If you are using the 4-pin terminal block, install it now
 [[File:E68XTODMX-18.JPG|680px|]]
 Install the RJ45 connector
 [[File:E68XTODMX-19.JPG|680px|]]

===E68x Configuration===
The E68x should be configured with the following parameters:
*Pixel Type of "DMX PIXEL" - use the command CH X,5 where X is the Group number
*String Count of 1 - use the command ST X,1 where X is the Group number
*Pixel Count of 170 - use the command PI X,170 where X is the Group number

The converter must be plugged into the first connector of the group (1-1, 2-1, 3-1 or 4-1) if you want a full universe (actually 510 channels).

You can also get creative and configure it with 4 strings of up to 42 pixels and use all four connectors in a group and you will end up with four separate DMX streams starting at addresses of 1-126, 127-252, 253-378 and 379-504. Smaller string lengths will result in smaller bundles of DMX addresses. Note that all strings sizes have to be the same length for a given group. Also remember the unit of measurement is pixels or 3-channels - not single channels.

===Converter Configuration===
The four jumpers must be placed all on the left for DMX wiring or all on the right for Renard wiring. You must install all four of the jumpers or install wire jumpers instead for the converter to work properly.

If you are using 5v pixel power on the connector you can jumper out the 78L05 regulator to provide 5v power. If you are using 12v pixel power then be sure to NOT have the bypass jumper installed or it will fry the RS485 chip. It is not recommended to use this board with 24v pixels as it may cause the regulator to overheat.

 

[[Category:DIYC Controllers]]
[[Category:DMX]]
[[Category:Pixel]]
[[Category:DIYC Index]]

Ren48LSDv3c

2013-06-25T07:20:28Z

Budude: /* Building the Ren48LSD */

=Ren48LSD (v3c) Construction Manual=

'''For information on the older version of this board (v3b) please go to [[Ren48LSD]].''' This page is for the v3c version of the board.

==''What'' is the Ren48LSD?==
The Ren48LSD ('''L'''ED '''S'''trip '''D'''river) controller came about as a solution to drive Frank's LED Super Strips. Originally I used [[DCSSR|DCSSRs]] to drive them and while it's a workable solution, it tends to be somewhat bulky and requires lots of additional wiring between the controller and DCSSRs as well as to the strips themselves. Another alternative is [[Renard 24LV|Frank's Ren24LV]] which uses ULN2803 drivers. The issue with this solution is that it has limitations in how much power it can sink to the strips due to the ULN2803 package power dissipation.

The strips require up to 360mA per output (18 LEDs x 20mA) so I used an NPN bipolar transistor to drive them. The transistors support up to 600mA maximum but should be limited to 400mA per output overall due to trace/connector maximums. The transistors are fairly cheap so it makes for a simple, inexpensive solution. The controller design used the [[The_Renard_SS24_Controller_Board|Ren24SS]] as a base, using the same PIC, clocking and serial interface configuration but expanded to 6 PICs to support 48 channels or driving up to 12 strips per board. Because of this, the controller supports standard [[Renard_Firmware#Regular_Firmware|Renard protocol FW]] using RS-232/485 as well as the [[Renard_Firmware#DMX_firmware|DMX]] version. The board requires either a 5vdc well regulated supply or a good 9-24vdc supply. The input supply also drives the LED strips.

'''For information on the previous version of this board (v3b) please go to [[Ren48LSD]].''' This page is for the v3c version of the board.

==How does the Ren48LSD work?==
The Ren48LSD uses the same architecture for the logic portions of the board from the RenardSS series of boards. Sequence information is passed from a PC running Vixen or other sequencing program via an RS-232 or RS-485/DMX interface. The ST485 chips receive this information and turn into standard TTL logic levels that the PIC can understand. The PIC reads in the data and if it determines that the information corresponds to itself, it updates the dimming levels of all 8 channels. It removes this information from the stream and feeds the rest out to the next PIC and that one performs the same. This is repeated for all 6 PICs. The last PIC, PIC 6, feeds what's left of the stream out to the other ST485 chip which translates it to RS-485 levels for the next controller in the line. It is important to realize that the information is removed from the stream and that the resultant leftover stream will have all of the data offset by the 48 channels of information used by the Ren48LSD. For example, if you have two Ren48LSDs, on Vixen you would configure a single Renard/DMX plug-in with 96 channels. The first Ren48LSD consumes the first 48 channels of information leaving only 48 channels on it's outputs. The second Ren48LSD will see this incoming data as controller #1 again and assume the data is for it. This is very much different than standard hard/soft-coded DMX or LOR devices that use a set address yet still pass on the entire stream to the next controller on the line. There are advantages and disadvantages to either approach - but you should be aware of this when combining normal DMX devices before/after a Ren48LSD (or any Renard controller running DMX code).

The PICs receive the data on pin 5 and after consuming their 8 channels of data, forward the rest out of pin 6 of the PIC which in turn goes to pin 5 of the next PIC. PIC #6 or the last PIC feeds the next controller if you have one attached as mentioned above. All of the PICs are fed the same clock from the external oscillator.

The logic portions of the board require a steady +5vdc supply. This can be supplied in two ways on the Ren48LSD. If you use a well-regulated +5vdc power supply, you skip installing all of the regulator circuitry and install a jumper across the +5vdc bypass connector. This will feed the power from the DC IN 1 jack directly to the logic components. Obviously care must be taken to ONLY use a 5vdc supply - if a 12v supply is connected in this configuration, you will probably lose all of your PICs, ST485 chips and the Oscillator in one shot. If you are planning to use a 9-24vdc supply then you must install the regulator circuitry. This allows the power supplied on the DC IN 1 connector to be converted down to +5vdc for the logic components. It is important to realize that the 5v created is only used by the logic components, it is NOT sent out to the outputs of the Ren48LSD. The outputs always follow whatever you place on DC IN 1 and DC IN 2. The two connectors are separated so it is possible to run different voltages on DC IN 1 and DC IN 2 (say 5v and 12v). Here again, extreme caution must be taken to ensure you do not mix up supplies or plug your device into the wrong outputs (say a 5v strip into a 12v output). In addition, you must ensure that the two power supplies will work harmoniously with a shared ground connection since the ground plane is shared between DC IN 1 and DC IN 2.

So - now that the PICs have the updated dimming levels for all of it's channels, it enables each of its outputs using PWM or Pulse Width Modulation. It is important to grasp that the voltage levels are not controlled - it is the amount of time on and off that is varied within a small cycle of time for each update. It seems logical that to dim things you would just change the voltage from 12v to 9v for example. Instead, the voltage is on at the full 12v for x amount of time and then it is off (0v) for the y amount of time - it is not something in-between. The cycle time is controlled by the PIC in the case of the Ren48LSD. In RenardSS boards, they use a Zero-Cross (ZC) signal which is created by an opto-isolator attached to the AC line (either directly to the mains or via a transformer and in both cases through some resistors to limit the current to the opto). Since the Ren48LSD does not have any AC supplied to it, the PIC basically makes up it's own timing but it closely resembles what is seen with normal ZC usage.

The Ren48LSD uses sourced outputs and not sinked outputs like the RenardSS controllers. Why is this? Because the PIC needs to turn on a transistor and to do this, it supplies 5v on it's output which turns on the transistor (via a resistor to limit the current) which allows current to flow from the collector to the emitter of the transistor. The emitter is directly connected to ground so basically, the transistor sinks the current from the LEDs (or whatever you have attached to the output) to ground. The positive voltage from the DC power supply connects directly to the device you have attached and this completes the circuit.

==Revision History==
The main changes from the v3b version of the board are a newly designed voltage regulator circuit. It was found on the v3b that the standard LM7805 regulator would get very hot when fully loaded at 12v (the v3b only supported 5vdc or 9-12vdc input). When fully on, the device sat at it's peak temperature of about 120 degC. I came up with a few workarounds which addressed this (see the v3b page) but for the next revision, I decided to change the regulator completely. Instead of using a linear 7805 regulator, I went with the LM2575-5 switching regulator. While it requires a few more parts (a coil, diodes and low ESR filter capacitors) it does allow the v3c version of the board to go up to 24vdc at full load. The regulator stays well within the temperature specs and in normal operation does not even get warm.

You do have to decide prior to building the board whether you will be using +5vdc or 9-24vdc as your input supply source (specifically to DC IN 1). If you are going with 5vdc, then you don't need any of the regulator circuit components - in fact you should specifically leave them off the board. There is a bypass jumper block on the board that bypasses the +5v from DC IN 1 directly to the logic on the board so you must install that block and jumper that as well. If you are going with 9-24vdc then you do need to install all of the regulator circuit to provide 5v to the logic on the board (PICs, Oscillator, RS485 chips).

==Ren48LSD (v3c) Parts==
In addition to the [http://www.diyledexpress.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=3&products_id=68 PCB], you will need the following components:

<table border="1"><tr><td>'''Mouser BOM'''</td></tr>
<tr><td>Mouser PN</td><td>Description</td><td>Qty</td></tr>
<tr><td>579-PIC16F688-I/P</td><td>Microcontrollers (MCU) 7KB 256 RAM 12 I/O</td><td>6</td></tr>
<tr><td>571-1-390261-3</td><td>IC & Component Sockets 14P ECONOMY TIN</td><td>6</td></tr>
<tr><td>511-ST485BN</td><td>Buffers & Line Drivers Hi-Spd Lo Pwr Trans</td><td>2</td></tr>
<tr><td>571-1-390261-2</td><td>IC & Component Sockets 8P ECONOMY TIN</td><td>2</td></tr>
<tr><td>520-TCH1843-X</td><td>ECS-2100AX-18.432MHZ</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>863-MPS2222AG</td><td>Bipolar Transistors 600mA 75V NPN</td><td>48</td></tr>
<tr><td>78-1N5239B</td><td>Zener Diodes 9.1 Volt 0.5 Watt</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>78-1N5229B</td><td>Zener Diodes 4.3 Volt 0.5 Watt</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>863-1N5819G</td><td>Schottky (Diodes & Rectifiers) 1A 40V</td><td>2</td></tr>
<tr><td>863-LM2575TV-5G</td><td>Switching Converters, Regulators & Controllers 5V 1A PWR SW REG</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>532-577102B00</td><td>Heatsinks TO-220 HORIZ/VERT SLIM CHANNEL STYLE</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>604-WP7113ID</td><td>Standard LED - Through Hole HI EFF RED DIFFUSED</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>581-SA105E104MAR</td><td>Multilayer Ceramic Capacitors (MLCC) - Leaded 50volts 0.1uF 20% Z5U</td><td>9</td></tr>
<tr><td>667-ELC-18B331L</td><td>Power Inductors 330UH RADIAL COIL CHOKE</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>140-RXJ331M1CBK1012P</td><td>Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - Leaded 16V 330uF 105C 10x12.5 mm</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>140-RXJ101M1HBK1016P</td><td>Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - Leaded 50V 100uF 105C 10x16 mm</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>299-680-RC</td><td>Carbon Film Resistors 680ohms</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>299-120-RC</td><td>Carbon Film Resistors 120ohms</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>299-27K-RC</td><td>Carbon Film Resistors 27Kohms</td><td>2</td></tr>
<tr><td>299-1K-RC</td><td>Carbon Film Resistors 1.0Kohms</td><td>2</td></tr>
<tr><td>299-470-RC</td><td>Carbon Film Resistors 470ohms</td><td>48</td></tr>
<tr><td>299-10K-RC</td><td>Carbon Film Resistors 10Kohms</td><td>6</td></tr>
<tr><td>571-5556416-1</td><td>Telecom & Ethernet Connectors 8 PCB TOP ENTRY</td><td>14</td></tr>
<tr><td>571-7969492</td><td>Terminal Blocks 5.08MM VERTICAL 2P wire protector</td><td>3</td></tr>
<tr><td>571-5-146281-2</td><td>Headers & Wire Housings 2 P HEADER GOLD 30u single row</td><td>2</td></tr>
<tr><td>649-65474-002LF</td><td>Headers & Wire Housings SHUNT TIN</td><td>1</td></tr>
</table>

[http://www.mouser.com:80/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=76c8f3ed18 Click here for Mouser Direct Project BOM]

Most of the components are not overly critical and some can be omitted in certain
cases. The electrolytic capacitors must only be subsituted with low-ESR versions only. Failure to do so could result in instability in the regulation circuit. If you are using a well regulated 5vdc supply, the voltage regulator, 1N5819 diodes (2), 330uH coil, and 100uf capacitor should not be installed. This will require a jumper to be placed across the +5vdc bypass terminal block which effectively shunts DC IN 1 directly to the board logic.

The BOM is available from [http://www.diyledexpress.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=3 DIYLEDExpress.com] 

'''NOTE - If you recently purchased a Ren48LSD board from diyledexpress then you should know that there was a slight mistake on the board files. Pin 7 of ALL the RJ45 outputs is not connected to anything. To use that pin, you must run a small jumper from pin 5 to pin 7 or simply blob up some solder between the two pins. This will ensure the common V+ is distributed properly to all four odd pins on the outputs.'''

==Building the Ren48LSD==

The Ren48LSD requires a fair bit of soldering so take your time and ensure you
install the components in the correct orientation when required. Start by sorting
the components by type and values. Look over the PCB before starting noting the
location of the various components. Follow the standard procedure of installing
the lowest profile parts first and ending up with the tallest.

[[File:Ren48LSD-v3c-Construction-0.png]]

1. Install the six 10k resistors near each PIC

[[File:Ren48LSD-v3c-Build-01a.jpg|850px]]

2. Install the two 1k resistors near the 485 chips

[[File:Ren48LSD-v3c-Build-02a.jpg|850px]]

3. Install the two 27k resistors near the 485 chips

[[File:Ren48LSD-v3c-Build-03a.jpg|850px]]

4. Install the one 120 resistor near the 485 chips

[[File:Ren48LSD-v3c-Build-04a.jpg|850px]]

5. Install the one 680 resistor near the LED

[[File:Ren48LSD-v3c-Build-05a.jpg|850px]]

6. Install the 1N5229 diode near the 485 chips – note the correct orientation - the band on the diode goes towards the top of the board in the square hole.

[[File:Ren48LSD-v3c-Build-06a.jpg|850px]]

7. Install the 1N5239 diode near the 485 chips – note the correct orientation - the band on the diode goes towards the top of the board in the square hole.

[[File:Ren48LSD-v3c-Build-07a.jpg|850px]]

8. Install the two 1N5819 diodes near the voltage regulator '''(Do not install for 5vdc input)''' – note the correct orientation - the diode closest to DCIN1 has the band on the diode facing down and in the square hole, the diode closest to the choke has the band on the diode facing right and in the square hole.

[[File:Ren48LSD-v3c-Build-08a.jpg|850px]]

9. Install all forty-eight 470 ohm resistors doing 4-8 at a time.

[[File:Ren48LSD-v3c-Build-09a.jpg|850px]]

10. Install the nine decoupling capacitors near the IC sockets and oscillator. Note that the silkscreen says ".01uF" - in fact they are 0.1uF (100nF).

[[File:Ren48LSD-v3c-Build-10a.jpg|850px]]

11. Install the six 14-pin PIC chip sockets - note the correct orientation - the top 3 sockets have the notch facing towards the left, and the bottom 3 sockets have the notch facing the right.

[[File:Ren48LSD-v3c-Build-11a.jpg|850px]]

12. Install the two 8-pin 485 chip sockets - note the correct orientation - the notch faces to the right side of the board towards the PICs.

[[File:Ren48LSD-v3c-Build-12a.jpg|850px]]

13. Install the 18.432MHz oscillator – note the correct orientation - the package has one square corner (and a dot) and that goes into the square hole on the board

[[File:Ren48LSD-v3c-Build-13a.jpg|850px]]

14. Install the 48 transistors – note the correct orientation – the emitter is nearest the PICs, base in the middle and collector near the RJ45 jacks. The legs of the transistors will need to be bent slightly to fit the holes. The middle leg will end up being out in front of the flat side of the transistor.

[[File:Ren48LSD-v3c-Build-14a.jpg|850px]]

15. Install the two 2-pin shunt jumpers

[[File:Ren48LSD-v3c-Build-15a.jpg|850px]]

16. Install the LED – note correct orientation - the flat side of the LED faces the bottom of the board and the shorter leg goes into the square hole.

[[File:Ren48LSD-v3c-Build-16a.jpg|850px]]

17. Install the DC input terminal blocks – note correct orientation - have the side where the power wires will be inserted facing to the right.

[[File:Ren48LSD-v3c-Build-17a.jpg|850px]]

18. Install the +5vdc bypass block '''(Install for 5vdc input)'''

[[File:Ren48LSD-v3c-Build-18a.jpg|850px]]

Note that if you are using a regulated 5vdc power supply for your input, you should omit installing most of the regulator circuitry.

19. Install the LM2575 regulator '''(Do not install for 5vdc input)''' - note correct orientation - pin 1 is denoted by the square pad - the odd number pins are the pins farthest away from the back

[[File:Ren48LSD-v3c-Build-19a.jpg|850px]]

20. Install the 100uF/50v capacitor '''(Do not install for 5vdc input)''' – note correct orientation - the capacitor has a stripe on the side denoting the negative leg that goes in the round hole.

[[File:Ren48LSD-v3c-Build-20a.jpg|850px]]

21. Install the 330uF/16v capacitor – note correct orientation - the capacitor has a stripe on the side denoting the negative leg that goes in the round hole.

[[File:Ren48LSD-v3c-Build-21a.jpg|850px]]

22. Mount the 5v regulator heat sink if you installed the regulator – use a small amount of heat sink compound

23. Install the choke coil - there is no polarity, it can be installed in either direction '''(Do not install for 5vdc input)'''

[[File:Ren48LSD-v3c-Build-22.jpg|850px]]

24. Install the fourteen RJ45 jacks – note that side-entry jacks can be substituted

[[File:Ren48LSD-v3c-Build-23a.jpg|850px]]

Congratulations! That completes the construction of the Ren48LSD!

==Initial Testing==
The first thing you will want to do in any PCB construction project is to double check that you have all components installed and in the proper orientation. You will then want to inspect the board for any cold/bridged solder joints. Take your time with this step and go over each and every joint.

If you have any of the IC's installed - remove them now. Connect your power supply to the “DC IN 1” - it supplies power to controller portion of the board as well as strip outputs 1-6. “DC IN 2” is a separate input to drive strips 7-12. Note that the ground is shared between the two inputs. If you are using a well regulated +5vdc power supply as your power input, the regulator circuit should not be installed. However, you must manually bypass this by placing a jumper wire between the +5vdc bypass terminal block. Turn on the supply and verify the power LED lights up. Verify you have 5v between pins 1 and 14 on each PIC socket as well as between pins 5 and 8 on the 485 chip sockets. Install all of the IC's if this passes.

==Programming the PIC controllers==
The Ren48LSD does not supply or use a ZeroCross input and therefore the Renard firmware (either Renard or DMX protocol) must be configured for DC/PWM
operation. In addition, if you are using the DMX firmware, you may want to set the initial starting address but generally, this can be left at '1' for all PICs since the code is self-addressing. Also – like the ULN2803 drivers, the transistors invert the output so the firmware uses positive outputs.

===Renard Protocol===
Obtain the standard Renard firmware [http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/images/d/d3/Renard-20071229.asm here:]

Make the following changes:

#define PWM_build 1 – change from '0'
#define DC_build 1 – change from '0'
#define CTR_LOCKOUT 1 – change from '15'
;#define OUTPUT_NEGATIVE_TRUE – comment this out

Compile the code into hex code and program all six PICs with the same code. A standard version of the code with the settings above has been compiled already for you in the File Library available [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/dynamics/attachment.php?attachmentid=207&d=1280420686 here].

===Renard-DMX Protocol===
Obtain the DMX Renard firmware from [http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/images/e/ea/Renard-dmx-20080814.asm here:]

#define DC_build 1 – change from '0'
#define CTR_LOCKOUT 0 – change from '40'
#define SINK_map 0x00 – change from '0xFF'

If you want to change the DMX starting address then alter it below – this is only required on the first PIC in the chain. If you have multiple Ren48LSD controllers, you can leave the second/subsequent PICs at '1' and they will automatically start off where the last PIC left off.

#define DMX_START_ADDRESS 1

Compile the code into hex code and program all six PICs with the same code (unless using a starting address). A standard version of the code with the settings above has been compiled already for you in the File Library available [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/dynamics/attachment.php?attachmentid=206&d=1280420686 here].

Whichever firmware you choose, install the flashed PICs into the sockets noting the correct orientation. Also install the two 485 chips into their sockets noting the correct orientation. You are now ready for final testing.

==Final Testing==
I chose not to design in the diagnostic LEDs as those used on the RenSS series of controllers. The design is fairly straight-forward and as long as you are sure of the voltage inputs and the PICs are flashed properly you should not have any issues if your soldering is good.

If you are using RS232, you should install the shunt on the "RS232" header which shorts pin 5 of the RJ45-IN connector to ground for proper RS232 operation. The wiring is the same as the RenardSS series so you can follow the cabling requiremnents for that.

As the Renard controller variations do not use bussed DMX it's not critical to install the DMX termination shunt if you are only using Renard controllers. This is because they are using point-to-point configurations. However - if this particular controller is at the end of a line of other normal (bussed) DMX devices, you should install the shunt to properly terminate the bus.

I'm assuming at this point that you have built one or more of the LED SuperStrips to test with. If not - - well - - do it... Note that the strips have one caveat – I have found that the LED colors go in Red, Blue, Green and White order – not Red, Green, Blue and White order. The RJ45 outputs are as follows:

#Common +DC
#Red Ground
#Common +DC
#Blue Ground
#Common +DC
#Green Ground
#Common +DC
#White Ground

What does this mean to you? Well – if you use standard straight-thru RJ45/Ethernet cables, the color order will be RBGW channel order in Vixen so if you want to use an RGBW order, you'll need to change the channel order in Vixen. The other alternative (and the way I do it) is to swap pins 4 and 6 at one end of the RJ45 cable. I did this because I thought it made more sense to keep the natural pin order versus color order. Note that pins 1, 3, 5 and 7 are tied together both on the PCB as well as the strips – there is no way to have separate +DC runs with the strips.

Connect the Ren48LSD to your PC using standard wiring practices as on the Wiki for other Renard controllers. Develop a Vixen sequence to turn on/off each channel in groups of four using the appropriate Renard/DMX plug-in. Channels 1, 5, 9, etc should have the same programming but only have 1 channel in the group (1,2,3,4) on at a time. This helps ensure you have unique channel
addressing from each RJ45 output.

With the sequence running, plug in a strip into each RJ45 and ensure each color turns on in order (remember that the B & G colors are swapped). Once that is complete you change the on/off to ramp up/downs to verify dimming operation. Finally, you can perform a full load test with 12 strips installed.

The Ren48LSD can be used to drive other devices as well of course. The MightyMini floods can be wired using normal RGBW wiring since the MM end of the cable goes into terminal blocks versus an RJ45 jack. Another popular flood is the ChristmasOnManor Rainbow Flood. This is an RGB (no white) flood so it only uses 3 channels. The wiring uses pins 2, 4 and 8 to drive Red, Green and Blue. Note that pin 6 - or the 3rd channel is not used here. You have a few choices - in Vixen simply skip that channel, or if you really want to use that channel, you will need to do some creative cabling or not use the RJ45 jacks at all and wire the 3 channels directly to the board. You can also alter the code in the PIC to only use 6 channels but this probably isn't worth the effort of changing the code.

==TroubleShooting==
So - you've built your new Ren48LSD, connected it up to your computer and tried a quick sequence and nothing happens! There are several checks to perform in order:

===Visual Inspection===
The very first step involves a close visual inspection of the board. Double check that you have the correct component in the correct location and in the correct orientation. Look at every single solder connection and if some are not shiny or look suspect - reflow them to be sure.
===Power===
Measure across pins 1 and 14 on all PIC sockets (U1 -> U6) - it should read 5v

Measure across pins 5 and 8 on both RS-485 sockets (U7, U8) - it should read 5v

If you do not measure 5v and you are using the "+5VDC BYPASS" feature, then ensure your supply is actually providing 5v at the "DC IN 1" terminal block.

If you do not measure 5v and you are using the regulator circuit, then ensure you are providing at least 7.5vdc (and up to 24vdc) into the "DC IN 1" terminal block from your supply. If that's OK, then inspect the soldering all around the regulator, coil, diodes and filter capacitors on the right hand side of the board. Ensure the filter capacitors, diodes and regulator were installed with the correct orientation.

===PIC Programming===
Reflash your PICs with the .hex file from this Wiki page or the File Library - perform a 'Verify' to be sure it's not blank
===Clocking===
With all six PICs installed, measure the voltage from pin 14 (gnd) to pin 2 (OSC) on all PICs - it should read around 2.5v (+/- 0.3v). If it appears to be stuck at 0 or 5v, then you probably have a soldering issue, the oscillator was installed with the incorrect orientation or the oscillator is bad. There should be 5v between the upper left and lower right pins on the oscillator (as viewed from the top of the board shown above).

Another possible reason for seeing close to 5v on pin 2 is that none of the PICs have been programmed properly. This is due to no loading of the output from the oscillator. Before replacing the oscillator, re-verify that the PICs have been programmed.

===Communications===
From Vixen, ensure you have the appropriate plug-in selected and configured. If you are using Renard/Serial code, you should have the "Renard Dimmer (modified)" selected using Protocol Version 1 and the correct COM port selected for your serial port. Ensure the baud rate is 57600 (if using the standard image), 8-bits, no parity, no stop bits and that it matches the port settings in the Windows Control Panel (Device Manager) as well. Ensure your cabling is correct from the Wiki documentation for Renard (it is the same as the RenSS series). Ensure the "RS232" jumper is ON and that the "TERM" jumper is OFF.

If you are using Renard/DMX code, you should have either the "Enttec Open DMX" or "Enttec DMX USB Pro" plug-in selected (unless you are using E1.31 which is beyond this document). Ensure your DMX dongle is seen as a COM port (unplug/plug in to be sure while Vixen is not up) and the plug-in is configured to match the port number. The baud rate settings are not used for DMX (it's always 250Kbps). If using the Enttec Open dongle, you need to configure the DMX Add-In as well so that the data is streamed to the device.Ensure your cabling is correct from the Wiki documentation for Renard (it is the same as the RenSS series). Ensure the "RS232" jumper is OFF. The "TERM" jumper will probably make no difference whether it's on or off but you can try both ways to see if it makes any difference.

Note that it's not really within the scope of this document to troubleshoot Vixen/dongle/cabling issues - please go through some of the Wiki documentation and if at all possible, try to confirm on a working piece of equipment before troubleshooting something that isn't broken to begin with. It's assumed at this point that to the best of your knowledge that everything up to the "IN" jack is in working order.

Configure a short Vixen sequence with a slow on/off sequence for each channel - 1 second on, 1 second off. Alternate the odd channels so that they are the opposite polarity of the even channels. In other words, when channel 1 is ON, channel 2 is OFF or when channel 2 is ON, channel 1 is off. Create a 48-channel sequence in this fashion so you can test all PICs at once. With the sequence running, measure the outputs of the PIC at pins 1, 13, 12, 11, 10, 9, 8 and 7. You should see each pin alternate from 0v to 5v once a second matching the sequence. If this is not the case, then sequencing data is not being received by the PIC(s).

Measure the voltage at pin 5 on PIC #1 (U1) with the same sequence running (from ground). it should be alternating between 0v and 5v and not be stuck at one or the other. If it appears stuck, then inspect the "IN" RS-485 chip at U7 (and the entire path from it to pin 5 on PIC #1/U1 pin 5) and ensure there are no bent pins (including the RJ45 jack itself), cold solder joints. Swap the two chips at U7 and U8 ("OUT" RS-485) to see if that resolves the issue. If the failure is in-between channels, then perform the same check on pin 5 on all PICs. For PICs #2-6, pin 5 is fed from pin 6 on the preceding PIC. In other words PIC 1, pin 6 feeds PIC 2, pin 5 and down the line so it could be an issue with the preceding PIC. Swap PICs around to see if that helps - otherwise it is probably a soldering issue.

If the problem is with a daisy-chained controller FROM this Ren48LSD, then inspect the RS-485 "OUT" chip closely at U8 for bent pins, solder issues, etc. Check the output RJ45 jack at J14 for crossed pins. Swap the RS-485 chip between U7 and U8 to see if that helps. Note that ALL output from the Ren48LSD is at RS-485 levels so the daisy-chained controller should not have the RS-232 jumper enabled.

===Output Drivers===
It's assumed at this point that you have checked that a sequence can drive the PIC outputs properly between 0 and 5v OK. With the PIC(s) removed and power on, connect a ''known good device'' (flood, RGB strip, etc) to the output socket(s) in question.

Use a piece of hookup wire and connect the wire from pin 1 to the following pins:

:Pin 3 - channel 1/9/17/25/33/41
:Pin 13 - channel 2/10/18/26/34/42
:Pin 12 - channel 3/11/19/27/35/43
:Pin 11 - channel 4/12/20/28/36/44
:Pin 10 - channel 5/13/21/29/37/45
:Pin 9 - channel 6/14/22/30/38/46
:Pin 8 - channel 7/15/23/31/39/47
:Pin 7 - channel 8/16/24/32/40/48

After connecting the wire to the output pins, the device should turn on. If it does not, then it's possible the output driver (transistor) is bad. Check the path from the PIC output pin you are testing through the 470 ohm resistor and to the base of the transistor in question. The nomenclature (name) of the transistor matches the channel number so "Q23" is for channel 23. Replacements may have been included with your kit or you can get them at RadioShack - most MPS2222a, PN2222A or 2N3904 types can be subsituted. If you have multiple transistors bad, then you should investigate how this happened before replacing the transistors since there's a good chance they will simply blow again.

==FAQ==

Q1: What if I only have 6 strips and won't be using ports 7-12?

A1: Well - you're in luck! Next to PIC #3 and PIC #6 is a via hole that will bypass PICs #4 - #6 if you install a wire between them. Note that this is only necessary if you are planning to daisy-chain another board from this one. This effectively makes this a Ren24LSD. If you are not going to daisy-chain another board, you can leave it off as well as the RS-485 output chip. Personally, I think this is false economy since you'll have to dig the parts up if you change your mind and want to run a board off this one. In either case, you certainly save time and money by not installing the PICs, sockets, transistors, resistors and output connectors for strips 7-12 if you don't have them.

[[File:Ren48LSD-v3c-Construction-Bypass.png]]

Q2: Can I use standard DIY SSRs with the Ren48LSD?

A2: Maybe - but with the following caveats:
:*It has not been tested at all
:*The power LED on the SSR will not work as there is no ground fed to pin 7.
:*To be safe, pins 3, 5 and 7 should not be connected from the Ren48LSD to the SSR.
:*You may want to stick with a 5vdc source only if insure of the specifications of the optoisolators used on the SSRs. If you are using the standard coop AC or DC SSRs then they should be able to use anything up to 12vdc OK.
For these reasons, it is not really recommended to use an SSR on the Ren48LSD at this time.
----

==Schematic==

'''NOTE - the schematic below has an error on the input circuitry but the board itself is correct. Use the RenSS (any) schematic for the communication circuitry for now.'''

Here is the schematic drawing for the Ren48LSD v3c in PDF format - [[File:Ren48LSD-v3c-Schematic.pdf]]

----
--[[User:Budude|Budude]] 03:08, 4 June 2010 (UTC)

[[Category:DIYC Controllers]]
[[Category:Renard]]
[[Category:Renard 48LSD]]
[[Category:DIYC Index]]

Ren4Flood

2013-06-10T00:56:58Z

Budude: /* Building the Ren4Flood */

=Ren4Flood Construction Manual=
Please see the standard [[Disclaimers|Disclaimers]] 

[[File:Ren4Flood-v1c-Step26.JPG|300px]] 

==What is the Ren4Flood?==
The Ren4Flood is a four channel controller primarily aimed at controlling an RGB+W LED flood such as the MightyMini, Rainbow Flood (RGB only) or the [[DIYC_Flood|DIYC Flood]]. It uses the existing Renard architecture and code which has been modified to only consume four channels versus the normal eight that a Renard uses per PIC. The logic/control/communication portion of the circuit comes straight from the RenardSS series of controllers so much of the credit goes to Wayne James and of course Phil Short for their contributions. The output section is taken from the Ren48LSD but reduced to only four channels. One minor difference on the RS-485 interface is that jumpers have been added to bypass the input directly to the output creating a non-regenerated "THRU" port instead of the more common output port on the RenSS series. This allows you to use static node addressing without affecting other nodes further up/down the line.

The other significant difference with the Ren4Flood is that it employs two input trigger ports. While this is not completely defined at the moment, the idea is of at least two different scenarios. The first allowing the installation of a switch to be mounted to the flood enclosure and simply turning on all of the LEDs to create a bright flood to be used during setup or off-season. The other scenario is using a trigger for security reasons. The input would be connected to some type of N/O switches and closing the switch would trigger the board to perform some type of light effect to scare off and/or alert you to this. Additional code could be used to monitor the input for data and if after a particular time period passes with no traffic (say 15 minutes), a light pattern would start for a set length of time to create simple mood/background lighting after the show completes.

==How does the Ren4Flood work?==
As mentioned before, the Ren4Flood uses the same architecture for the logic portions of the board from the RenardSS series of boards. Sequence information is passed from a PC running Vixen or other sequencing program via an RS-232 or RS-485/DMX interface. The ST485 chips receive this information and turn into standard TTL logic levels that the PIC can understand. The PIC reads in the data and if it determines that the information corresponds to itself, it updates the dimming levels of all 4 channels. It removes this information from the stream and feeds the rest out to the other ST485 chip which translates it to RS-485 levels for the next controller in the line. It is important to realize that the information is removed from the stream and that the resultant leftover stream will have all of the data offset by the 4 channels of information used by the Ren4Flood. For example, if you have two Ren4Flood, on Vixen you would configure a single Renard/DMX plug-in with 8 channels. The first Ren4Flood consumes the first 4 channels of information leaving only 4 channels on it's outputs. The second Ren4Flood will see this incoming data as controller #1 again and assume the data is for it. This is very much different than standard hard/soft-coded DMX or LOR devices that use a set address yet still pass on the entire stream to the next controller on the line. There are advantages and disadvantages to either approach - but you should be aware of this when combining normal DMX devices before/after a Ren4Flood (or any Renard controller running DMX code).

The Ren4Flood has a jumper to bypass this however and can pass the data straight from the input to the output plug. This means you will need to set the hardware address by programming the PIC with different addresses on each Ren4Flood controller.

The PICs receive the data on pin 5 and after consuming their 4 channels of data, forward the rest out of pin 6 of the PIC which in turn goes to the next controller if you have one attached as mentioned above.

The board requires a 12-24vdc supply which is converted to +5v for the logic portion of the controller but is also fed directly out to the outputs via the transistors.

The Ren4Flood uses sourced outputs and not sinked outputs like the RenardSS controllers. Why is this? Because the PIC needs to turn on a transistor and to do this, it supplies 5v on it's output which turns on the transistor (via a resistor to limit the current) which allows current to flow from the collector to the emitter of the transistor. The emitter is directly connected to ground so basically, the transistor sinks the current from the LEDs (or whatever you have attached to the output) to ground. The positive voltage from the DC power supply connects directly to the device you have attached and this completes the circuit.

==Revision History==
The v1c version is currently the only version of the Ren4Flood in production.

==Ren4Flood (v1c) Parts==
In addition to the PCB, you will need the following components:

<table border="1"><tr><td>'''Mouser BOM'''</td></tr>
<tr><td>Mouser PN</td><td>Description</td><td>Qty</td></tr>
<tr><td>579-PIC16F688-I/P</td><td>Microcontrollers (MCU) 7KB 256 RAM 12 I/O</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>571-1-390261-3</td><td>IC & Component Sockets 14P ECONOMY TIN</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>511-ST485BN</td><td>Buffers & Line Drivers Hi-Spd Lo Pwr Trans</td><td>2</td></tr>
<tr><td>571-1-390261-2</td><td>IC & Component Sockets 8P ECONOMY TIN</td><td>2</td></tr>
<tr><td>520-TCH1843-X</td><td>ECS-2100AX-18.432MHZ</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>863-MPS2222AG</td><td>Bipolar Transistors 600mA 75V NPN</td><td>4</td></tr>
<tr><td>78-1N5239B</td><td>Zener Diodes 9.1 Volt 0.5 Watt</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>78-1N5229B</td><td>Zener Diodes 4.3 Volt 0.5 Watt</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>863-1N5819G</td><td>Schottky (Diodes & Rectifiers) 1A 40V</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>512-LM7805CT</td><td>Linear Regulators - Standard 1A Pos Vol Reg</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>532-577102B00</td><td>Heatsinks TO-220 HORIZ/VERT SLIM CHANNEL STYLE</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>604-WP7113ID</td><td>Standard LED - Through Hole HI EFF RED DIFFUSED</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>581-SA105E104MAR</td><td>Multilayer Ceramic Capacitors (MLCC) - Leaded 50volts 0.1uF 20% Z5U</td><td>5</td></tr>
<tr><td>647-UHE1C471MPD</td><td>Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - Leaded 16volts 470uF 105c 8x15 3.5LS</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>581-SA105E224MAR</td><td>Multilayer Ceramic Capacitors (MLCC) - Leaded 50volts 0.22uF 20% Z5U</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>581-SA305E105MAR</td><td>Multilayer Ceramic Capacitors (MLCC) - Leaded 50volts 1uF 20% Z5U</td><td>2</td></tr>
<tr><td>299-680-RC</td><td>Carbon Film Resistors 680ohms</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>299-120-RC</td><td>Carbon Film Resistors 120ohms</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>299-27K-RC</td><td>Carbon Film Resistors 27Kohms</td><td>2</td></tr>
<tr><td>299-1K-RC</td><td>Carbon Film Resistors 1.0Kohms</td><td>4</td></tr>
<tr><td>299-470-RC</td><td>Carbon Film Resistors 470ohms</td><td>4</td></tr>
<tr><td>299-10K-RC</td><td>Carbon Film Resistors 10Kohms</td><td>3</td></tr>
<tr><td>571-5556416-1</td><td>Telecom & Ethernet Connectors 8 PCB TOP ENTRY</td><td>2</td></tr>
<tr><td>571-7969492</td><td>Terminal Blocks 5.08MM VERTICAL 2P wire protector</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>651-1727078</td><td>Fixed Terminal Blocks 8P 3.81mm 90DEG</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>651-1727036</td><td>Fixed Terminal Blocks 4P 3.81mm 90DEG</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>538-22-28-4056</td><td>Headers & Wire Housings 5CKT VERT HDR</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>538-70287-1001</td><td>Headers & Wire Housings C-GRID .100" 2X03P VT HDR </td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>571-5-146281-2</td><td>Headers & Wire Housings 2 P HEADER GOLD 30u single row</td><td>2</td></tr>
<tr><td>649-65474-002LF</td><td>Headers & Wire Housings SHUNT TIN</td><td>3</td></tr>
</table>

[http://www.mouser.com:80/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=aef7433f52 Click here for Mouser Direct Project BOM]

Most of the components are not overly critical and some can be omitted in certain cases.

The BOM is available from [http://www.diyledexpress.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=4&products_id=9 DIYLEDExpress.com] 

==Building the Ren4Flood==

The Ren4Flood requires a modest bit of soldering so take your time and ensure you install the components in the correct orientation when required. Start by sorting the components by type and values. Look over the PCB before starting noting the location of the various components. Follow the standard procedure of installing the lowest profile parts first and ending up with the tallest. Begin by inspecting the PCBs to look for any defects such as cracks or breaks. The holes on the board should be open on both sides. Then inspect and sort out the various parts for the board.

[[File:Ren4Flood-v1c-Step00.JPG|300px]] 

1. Install the three 10k resistors near top center of the board

[[File:Ren4Flood-v1c-Step01.JPG|300px]] 

2. Install the four 1k resistors two near the top 485 chip and two near the middle of the board

[[File:Ren4Flood-v1c-Step02.JPG|300px]] 

3. Install the two 27k resistors near the top 485 chip

[[File:Ren4Flood-v1c-Step03.JPG|300px]] 

4. Install the one 120 resistor near the top 485 chip

[[File:Ren4Flood-v1c-Step04.JPG|300px]] 

5. Install the one 680 resistor near the LED in the middle of the board

[[File:Ren4Flood-v1c-Step05.JPG|300px]] 

6. Install the 1N5229 diode above the top 485 chip – note the correct orientation - the band on the diode goes towards the right side of the board

[[File:Ren4Flood-v1c-Step06.JPG|300px]] 

7. Install the 1N5239 diode above the top 485 chip – note the correct orientation - the band on the diode goes towards the left side of the board

[[File:Ren4Flood-v1c-Step07.JPG|300px]] 

8. Install the four 470 ohm resistors near the right side of the board

[[File:Ren4Flood-v1c-Step08.JPG|300px]] 

9. Install the five 0.1uf decoupling capacitors near the IC sockets, oscillator and near the voltage regulator. Note that the silkscreen says 100nF.

[[File:Ren4Flood-v1c-Step09.JPG|300px]] 

10. Install the one 0.33uf capacitor to the right of the voltage regulator. Note that the silkscreen says 330nF. The BOM lists a 0.22uf capacitor, either a 0.22uf or a 0.33uf can be used.

[[File:Ren4Flood-v1c-Step10.JPG|300px]] 

11. Install the two 1.0uf capacitors and near the ICSP header. Note that the silkscreen says "1uF".

12. Install the one 14-pin PIC chip socket and the two 8-pin 485 chip sockets - note the correct orientation with the socket notch in the same direction as the silk screen.

[[File:Ren4Flood-v1c-Step12.JPG|300px]] 

13. Install the 18.432MHz oscillator – note the correct orientation - the package has one square corner (and a dot) and that goes into the square hole on the board

[[File:Ren4Flood-v1c-Step13.JPG|300px]] 

14. Install the two 2-pin headers on the left side of the board in the term and rs232 holes

[[File:Ren4Flood-v1c-Step14.JPG|300px]] 

15. Install the one 2x3-pin header to the left of the bottom rs485 chip

[[File:Ren4Flood-v1c-Step15.JPG|300px]] 

16. Install the one 5-pin header in the top center of the board int the holes marked ICSP

[[File:Ren4Flood-v1c-Step16.JPG|300px]] 

17. Install the LED – note correct orientation - the flat side of the LED faces to the left. The longer leg of the LED goes in the hole to the right.

[[File:Ren4Flood-v1c-Step17.JPG|300px]] 

18. Install the one 2-terminal DC input terminal blocks – note correct orientation - have the side where the power wires will be inserted facing the bottom of the board

[[File:Ren4Flood-v1c-Step18.JPG|300px]] 

19. Install the one 4-terminal trigger terminal block on the top right of the board.

[[File:Ren4Flood-v1c-Step19.JPG|300px]] 

20. Install the one 8-terminal flood terminal block to the right side of the board.

21. Install the LM7805 regulator - note correct orientation - pin 1 is denoted by the dot on the package and the board. Mount the heat sink to the device and use a small amount of heat sink compound

[[File:Ren4Flood-v1c-Step21.JPG|300px]] 

22. Install the one 1N5819 diode near the voltage regulator – note the correct orientation - the diode has the band on the diode facing towards the top of the board. If you are using 12v for the supply, you may want to install a wire jumper here instead so that the additional voltage drop does not effect the brightness as much.

[[File:Ren4Flood-v1c-Step22.JPG|300px]] 

23. Install the 470uF/16v capacitor – note correct orientation - the capacitor has a stripe on the side denoting the negative leg that goes in the hole near the "-"mark on the board.

[[File:Ren4Flood-v1c-Step23.JPG|300px]] 

24. Install the two RJ45 jacks – note that side-entry jacks can be substituted

[[File:Ren4Flood-v1c-Step24.JPG|300px]] 

25. Install the 4 transistors – note the correct orientation – the flat side of the package faces towards the bottom of the board.

[[File:Ren4Flood-v1c-Step25.JPG|300px]] 

Congratulations! That completes the construction of the Ren4Flood!

===Connecting the Ren4Flood to the DIYC Flood===

Here is the view from the top of the Ren4Flood

[[File:Ren4Flood-with-DIYCFlood-1.JPG|300px]] 

Here is the view from the other side with the DIYC Flood

[[File:Ren4Flood-with-DIYCFlood-2.JPG|300px]] 

Run solid wire completely through the boards and solder both ends. Use 6-32 screws with locking nuts and pieces of ice-maker tubing as spacers.

[[File:Ren4Flood-with-DIYCFlood-3.JPG|300px]] 

==Initial Testing==
The first thing you will want to do in any PCB construction project is to double check that you have all components installed and in the proper orientation. You will then want to inspect the board for any cold/bridged solder joints. Take your time with this step and go over each and every joint.

If you have any of the IC's installed - remove them now. Connect your power supply to the “DC IN” - it supplies power to controller portion of the board as well as the outputs. Turn on the supply and verify the power LED lights up. Verify you have 5v between pins 1 and 14 on the PIC socket as well as between pins 5 and 8 on the 485 chip sockets. Install all of the IC's if this passes. The PIC goes in the 14 pin socket with the notch facing the top of the board. The two 485 chips go in the 8 pin sockets on the left side of the board and the notches face to the left.

==Programming the PIC controllers==
The Ren4Flood does not supply or use a ZeroCross input and therefore the Renard firmware (either Renard or DMX protocol) must be configured for DC/PWM
operation. In addition, if you are using the DMX firmware, you may want to set the initial starting address but generally, this can be left at '1' for all PICs since the code is self-addressing. Also – like the ULN2803 drivers, the transistors invert the output so the firmware uses positive outputs.

===Renard Protocol===
'''Use standard Ren48LSD/Serial code - it will require you to skip channels 1-4 in your sequencer as the code still consumes 8 channels.'''
Obtain the standard Renard firmware [http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/images/d/d3/Renard-20071229.asm here:]

Make the following changes:

#define PWM_build 1 – change from '0'
#define DC_build 1 – change from '0'
#define CTR_LOCKOUT 1 – change from '15'
;#define OUTPUT_NEGATIVE_TRUE – comment this out

Compile the code into hex code and program the PIC. A standard version of the code with the settings above has been compiled already for you in the File Library available [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/dynamics/attachment.php?attachmentid=207&d=1280420686 here].

Note that when using the standard Ren48LSD/Serial code, that you need to account for eight channels even though there are only four used on the Ren4Flood. Channels 1-4 are not used and channels 5-8 are for the four outputs.

There is no trigger code written for the Ren4Flood at this time so the trigger inputs are not functional yet. This functionality may be added at a later time.

===Renard-DMX Protocol===
Obtain the Ren4Flood firmware from [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/dynamics/attachment.php?attachmentid=379&d=1316753757 here:]

If you want to change the DMX starting address then alter it below.

#define DMX_START_ADDRESS 1

Compile the code into hex code and program the PIC with the same code (unless using a starting address). A standard version of the code with the settings above has been compiled already for you in the File Library available [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/dynamics/attachment.php?attachmentid=380&d=1316753757 here].

Whichever firmware you choose, install the flashed PIC into the socket noting the correct orientation. Also install the two 485 chips into their sockets noting the correct orientation. You are now ready for final testing.

There is no trigger code written for the Ren4Flood at this time so the trigger inputs are not functional yet. This functionality will be added at a later time.

==Final Testing==
I chose not to design in the diagnostic LEDs as those used on the RenSS series of controllers. The design is fairly straight-forward and as long as you are sure of the voltage inputs and the PICs are flashed properly you should not have any issues if your soldering is good.

If you are using RS232, you should install the shunt on the "RS232" header which shorts pin 5 of the RJ45-IN connector to ground for proper RS232 operation. The wiring is the same as the RenardSS series so you can follow the cabling requiremnents for that.

As the Renard controller variations do not use bussed DMX it's not critical to install the DMX termination shunt if you are only using Renard controllers. This is because they are using point-to-point configurations. However - if this particular controller is at the end of a line of other normal (bussed) DMX devices, you should install the shunt to properly terminate the bus.

Connect the Ren4Flood to your PC using standard wiring practices as on the Wiki for other Renard controllers. Develop a Vixen sequence to turn on/off each channel one-by-one using the appropriate Renard/DMX plug-in. With the sequence running, measure the output of each terminal block pair and ensure the voltage swings from 0 to DC IN.

==TroubleShooting==
So - you've built your new Ren4Flood, connected it up to your computer and tried a quick sequence and nothing happens! There are several checks to perform in order:

===Visual Inspection===
The very first step involves a close visual inspection of the board. Double check that you have the correct component in the correct location and in the correct orientation. Look at every single solder connection and if some are not shiny or look suspect - reflow them to be sure.
===Power===
Measure across pins 1 and 14 on the PIC socket - it should read 5v

Measure across pins 5 and 8 on both RS-485 sockets - it should read 5v

If you do not measure 5v and you are using the regulator, then ensure you are providing at least 7.5vdc (and up to 24vdc) into the terminal block from your supply. If that's OK, then inspect the soldering all around the regulator and filter capacitors on the board. Ensure the filter capacitor and regulator were installed with the correct orientation.

===PIC Programming===
Reflash your PIC with the .hex file from this Wiki page or the File Library - perform a 'Verify' to be sure it's not blank

===Clocking===
With the PIC installed, measure the voltage from pin 14 (gnd) to pin 2 (OSC) on the PIC - it should not be stuck at 0 or 5v (probably close to 3.5v). If it is then you probably have a soldering issue, the oscillator was installed with the incorrect orientation or the oscillator is bad. There should be 5v between the upper left and lower right pins on the oscillator.

Another possible reason for seeing close to 5v on pin 2 is that the PIC has been programmed properly. This is due to no loading of the output from the oscillator. Before replacing the oscillator, re-verify that the PIC has been programmed.

===Communications===
From Vixen, ensure you have the appropriate plug-in selected and configured. If you are using Renard/Serial code, you should have the "Renard Dimmer (modified)" selected using Protocol Version 1 and the correct COM port selected for your serial port. Ensure the baud rate is 57600 (if using the standard image), 8-bits, no parity, 1 stop bit and that it matches the port settings in the Windows Control Panel (Device Manager) as well. Ensure your cabling is correct from the Wiki documentation for Renard (it is the same as the RenSS series). Ensure the "RS232" jumper is ON and that the "TERM" jumper is OFF.

If you are using Renard/DMX code, you should have either the "Enttec Open DMX" or "Enttec DMX USB Pro" plug-in selected (unless you are using E1.31 which is beyond this document). Ensure your DMX dongle is seen as a COM port (unplug/plug in to be sure while Vixen is not up) and the plug-in is configured to match the port number. The baud rate settings are not used for DMX (it's always 250Kbps). If using the Enttec Open dongle, you need to configure the DMX Add-In as well so that the data is streamed to the device.Ensure your cabling is correct from the Wiki documentation for Renard (it is the same as the RenSS series). Ensure the "RS232" jumper is OFF. The "TERM" jumper will probably make no difference whether it's on or off but you can try both ways to see if it makes any difference.

Note that it's not really within the scope of this document to troubleshoot Vixen/dongle/cabling issues - please go through some of the Wiki documentation and if at all possible, try to confirm on a working piece of equipment before troubleshooting something that isn't broken to begin with. It's assumed at this point that to the best of your knowledge that everything up to the "IN" jack is in working order.

Configure a short Vixen sequence with a slow on/off sequence for each channel - 1 second on, 1 second off. Alternate the odd channels so that they are the opposite polarity of the even channels. In other words, when channel 1 is ON, channel 2 is OFF or when channel 2 is ON, channel 1 is off. Create a 4-channel sequence in this fashion so you can test all channels at once. With the sequence running, measure the outputs of the PIC at pins 10, 9, 8 and 7. You should see each pin alternate from 0v to 5v once a second matching the sequence. If this is not the case, then sequencing data is not being received by the PIC(s).

Measure the voltage at pin 5 on PIC with the same sequence running (from ground). it should be alternating between 0v and 5v and not be stuck at one or the other. If it appears stuck, then inspect the "IN" RS-485 chip (and the entire path from it to pin 5 on the PIC) and ensure there are no bent pins (including the RJ45 jack itself), cold solder joints. Swap the two RS485 chips to see if that resolves the issue.

If the problem is with a daisy-chained controller FROM this Ren4Flood, then inspect the RS-485 "OUT" chip closely for bent pins, solder issues, etc. Check the output RJ45 jack for crossed pins. Swap the RS-485 chips to see if that helps. Note that ALL output from the Ren4Flood is at RS-485 levels so the daisy-chained controller should not have the RS-232 jumper enabled.

===Output Drivers===
It's assumed at this point that you have checked that a sequence can drive the PIC outputs properly between 0 and 5v OK. With the PIC(s) removed and power on, connect a ''known good device'' (flood, RGB strip, etc) to the output socket(s) in question.

Use a piece of hookup wire and connect the wire from pin 1 to the following pins:

:Pin 10 - channel 1
:Pin 9 - channel 2
:Pin 8 - channel 3
:Pin 7 - channel 4

After connecting the wire to the output pins, the device should turn on. If it does not, then it's possible the output driver (transistor) is bad. Check the path from the PIC output pin you are testing through the 470 ohm resistor and to the base of the transistor in question. The nomenclature (name) of the transistor matches the channel number so "Q2" is for channel 2. Replacements may have been included with your kit or you can get them at RadioShack - most MPS2222a, PN2222A or 2N3904 types can be subsituted. If you have multiple transistors bad, then you should investigate how this happened before replacing the transistors since there's a good chance they will simply blow again.

==FAQ==
What are the jumper settings for the board? 
There are three jumper settings on the Ren4Flood pcb.

1) The first jumper is the TERM jumper. You may need to connect the shunt across the two pins if this is the last device in a string of DMX devices.

2) The second jumper is the RS232 jumper. You may need to connect the shunt across the two pins if you are sending data to the board using RS232 signaling.

3) The Third jumper is the THRU jumper. This is a 2x3 header. For "normal" Renard operation, there should be a pair of jumpers across both 1&2 (they go vertically). For "THRU" they should go across 2&3. Basically this jumpers pins 4&5 from the IN connector directly to the OUT connector. If you use the THRU connection using the standard Ren48LSD code, it will not be an issue since ALL data is bypassed across the connector. You will need to set the starting address on each PIC however.

Can you program the pic while it is on the board? 
Yes, by using the ICSP header connected to your PIC2 or PIC3 programmer you can program the PIC while it is on the board. Please make sure to note the orientation of pin 1 of the ICSP header (marked by the arrow at the top).

==Schematic==

Here is the schematic drawing for the Ren4Flood v1c in PDF format [[Media:Ren4Flood-v1c.pdf]]

=PCB=
The PCBs for the Ren4Flood were designed by [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/member.php?1986-budude Brian Ullmark (budude)]. The PCB is 4.75" x 2.1". The PCB is available from [http://www.diyledexpress.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=4&products_id=24 DIYLEDExpress.com] 

[[File:Ren4Flood-v1c-PCB1.jpg|300px]] 

----

[[Category:DIYC Controllers]]
[[Category:Renard]]
[[Category:DIYC Index]]

File:Ren4Flood-with-DIYCFlood-3.JPG

2013-06-10T00:51:31Z

Budude:

File:Ren4Flood-with-DIYCFlood-2.JPG

2013-06-10T00:51:08Z

Budude:

File:Ren4Flood-with-DIYCFlood-1.JPG

2013-06-10T00:50:35Z

Budude:

Ren4Flood

2013-06-10T00:48:55Z

Budude: /* Renard Protocol */

=Ren4Flood Construction Manual=
Please see the standard [[Disclaimers|Disclaimers]] 

[[File:Ren4Flood-v1c-Step26.JPG|300px]] 

==What is the Ren4Flood?==
The Ren4Flood is a four channel controller primarily aimed at controlling an RGB+W LED flood such as the MightyMini, Rainbow Flood (RGB only) or the [[DIYC_Flood|DIYC Flood]]. It uses the existing Renard architecture and code which has been modified to only consume four channels versus the normal eight that a Renard uses per PIC. The logic/control/communication portion of the circuit comes straight from the RenardSS series of controllers so much of the credit goes to Wayne James and of course Phil Short for their contributions. The output section is taken from the Ren48LSD but reduced to only four channels. One minor difference on the RS-485 interface is that jumpers have been added to bypass the input directly to the output creating a non-regenerated "THRU" port instead of the more common output port on the RenSS series. This allows you to use static node addressing without affecting other nodes further up/down the line.

The other significant difference with the Ren4Flood is that it employs two input trigger ports. While this is not completely defined at the moment, the idea is of at least two different scenarios. The first allowing the installation of a switch to be mounted to the flood enclosure and simply turning on all of the LEDs to create a bright flood to be used during setup or off-season. The other scenario is using a trigger for security reasons. The input would be connected to some type of N/O switches and closing the switch would trigger the board to perform some type of light effect to scare off and/or alert you to this. Additional code could be used to monitor the input for data and if after a particular time period passes with no traffic (say 15 minutes), a light pattern would start for a set length of time to create simple mood/background lighting after the show completes.

==How does the Ren4Flood work?==
As mentioned before, the Ren4Flood uses the same architecture for the logic portions of the board from the RenardSS series of boards. Sequence information is passed from a PC running Vixen or other sequencing program via an RS-232 or RS-485/DMX interface. The ST485 chips receive this information and turn into standard TTL logic levels that the PIC can understand. The PIC reads in the data and if it determines that the information corresponds to itself, it updates the dimming levels of all 4 channels. It removes this information from the stream and feeds the rest out to the other ST485 chip which translates it to RS-485 levels for the next controller in the line. It is important to realize that the information is removed from the stream and that the resultant leftover stream will have all of the data offset by the 4 channels of information used by the Ren4Flood. For example, if you have two Ren4Flood, on Vixen you would configure a single Renard/DMX plug-in with 8 channels. The first Ren4Flood consumes the first 4 channels of information leaving only 4 channels on it's outputs. The second Ren4Flood will see this incoming data as controller #1 again and assume the data is for it. This is very much different than standard hard/soft-coded DMX or LOR devices that use a set address yet still pass on the entire stream to the next controller on the line. There are advantages and disadvantages to either approach - but you should be aware of this when combining normal DMX devices before/after a Ren4Flood (or any Renard controller running DMX code).

The Ren4Flood has a jumper to bypass this however and can pass the data straight from the input to the output plug. This means you will need to set the hardware address by programming the PIC with different addresses on each Ren4Flood controller.

The PICs receive the data on pin 5 and after consuming their 4 channels of data, forward the rest out of pin 6 of the PIC which in turn goes to the next controller if you have one attached as mentioned above.

The board requires a 12-24vdc supply which is converted to +5v for the logic portion of the controller but is also fed directly out to the outputs via the transistors.

The Ren4Flood uses sourced outputs and not sinked outputs like the RenardSS controllers. Why is this? Because the PIC needs to turn on a transistor and to do this, it supplies 5v on it's output which turns on the transistor (via a resistor to limit the current) which allows current to flow from the collector to the emitter of the transistor. The emitter is directly connected to ground so basically, the transistor sinks the current from the LEDs (or whatever you have attached to the output) to ground. The positive voltage from the DC power supply connects directly to the device you have attached and this completes the circuit.

==Revision History==
The v1c version is currently the only version of the Ren4Flood in production.

==Ren4Flood (v1c) Parts==
In addition to the PCB, you will need the following components:

<table border="1"><tr><td>'''Mouser BOM'''</td></tr>
<tr><td>Mouser PN</td><td>Description</td><td>Qty</td></tr>
<tr><td>579-PIC16F688-I/P</td><td>Microcontrollers (MCU) 7KB 256 RAM 12 I/O</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>571-1-390261-3</td><td>IC & Component Sockets 14P ECONOMY TIN</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>511-ST485BN</td><td>Buffers & Line Drivers Hi-Spd Lo Pwr Trans</td><td>2</td></tr>
<tr><td>571-1-390261-2</td><td>IC & Component Sockets 8P ECONOMY TIN</td><td>2</td></tr>
<tr><td>520-TCH1843-X</td><td>ECS-2100AX-18.432MHZ</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>863-MPS2222AG</td><td>Bipolar Transistors 600mA 75V NPN</td><td>4</td></tr>
<tr><td>78-1N5239B</td><td>Zener Diodes 9.1 Volt 0.5 Watt</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>78-1N5229B</td><td>Zener Diodes 4.3 Volt 0.5 Watt</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>863-1N5819G</td><td>Schottky (Diodes & Rectifiers) 1A 40V</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>512-LM7805CT</td><td>Linear Regulators - Standard 1A Pos Vol Reg</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>532-577102B00</td><td>Heatsinks TO-220 HORIZ/VERT SLIM CHANNEL STYLE</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>604-WP7113ID</td><td>Standard LED - Through Hole HI EFF RED DIFFUSED</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>581-SA105E104MAR</td><td>Multilayer Ceramic Capacitors (MLCC) - Leaded 50volts 0.1uF 20% Z5U</td><td>5</td></tr>
<tr><td>647-UHE1C471MPD</td><td>Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - Leaded 16volts 470uF 105c 8x15 3.5LS</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>581-SA105E224MAR</td><td>Multilayer Ceramic Capacitors (MLCC) - Leaded 50volts 0.22uF 20% Z5U</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>581-SA305E105MAR</td><td>Multilayer Ceramic Capacitors (MLCC) - Leaded 50volts 1uF 20% Z5U</td><td>2</td></tr>
<tr><td>299-680-RC</td><td>Carbon Film Resistors 680ohms</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>299-120-RC</td><td>Carbon Film Resistors 120ohms</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>299-27K-RC</td><td>Carbon Film Resistors 27Kohms</td><td>2</td></tr>
<tr><td>299-1K-RC</td><td>Carbon Film Resistors 1.0Kohms</td><td>4</td></tr>
<tr><td>299-470-RC</td><td>Carbon Film Resistors 470ohms</td><td>4</td></tr>
<tr><td>299-10K-RC</td><td>Carbon Film Resistors 10Kohms</td><td>3</td></tr>
<tr><td>571-5556416-1</td><td>Telecom & Ethernet Connectors 8 PCB TOP ENTRY</td><td>2</td></tr>
<tr><td>571-7969492</td><td>Terminal Blocks 5.08MM VERTICAL 2P wire protector</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>651-1727078</td><td>Fixed Terminal Blocks 8P 3.81mm 90DEG</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>651-1727036</td><td>Fixed Terminal Blocks 4P 3.81mm 90DEG</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>538-22-28-4056</td><td>Headers & Wire Housings 5CKT VERT HDR</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>538-70287-1001</td><td>Headers & Wire Housings C-GRID .100" 2X03P VT HDR </td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>571-5-146281-2</td><td>Headers & Wire Housings 2 P HEADER GOLD 30u single row</td><td>2</td></tr>
<tr><td>649-65474-002LF</td><td>Headers & Wire Housings SHUNT TIN</td><td>3</td></tr>
</table>

[http://www.mouser.com:80/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=aef7433f52 Click here for Mouser Direct Project BOM]

Most of the components are not overly critical and some can be omitted in certain cases.

The BOM is available from [http://www.diyledexpress.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=4&products_id=9 DIYLEDExpress.com] 

==Building the Ren4Flood==

The Ren4Flood requires a modest bit of soldering so take your time and ensure you install the components in the correct orientation when required. Start by sorting the components by type and values. Look over the PCB before starting noting the location of the various components. Follow the standard procedure of installing the lowest profile parts first and ending up with the tallest. Begin by inspecting the PCBs to look for any defects such as cracks or breaks. The holes on the board should be open on both sides. Then inspect and sort out the various parts for the board.

[[File:Ren4Flood-v1c-Step00.JPG|300px]] 

1. Install the three 10k resistors near top center of the board

[[File:Ren4Flood-v1c-Step01.JPG|300px]] 

2. Install the four 1k resistors two near the top 485 chip and two near the middle of the board

[[File:Ren4Flood-v1c-Step02.JPG|300px]] 

3. Install the two 27k resistors near the top 485 chip

[[File:Ren4Flood-v1c-Step03.JPG|300px]] 

4. Install the one 120 resistor near the top 485 chip

[[File:Ren4Flood-v1c-Step04.JPG|300px]] 

5. Install the one 680 resistor near the LED in the middle of the board

[[File:Ren4Flood-v1c-Step05.JPG|300px]] 

6. Install the 1N5229 diode above the top 485 chip – note the correct orientation - the band on the diode goes towards the right side of the board

[[File:Ren4Flood-v1c-Step06.JPG|300px]] 

7. Install the 1N5239 diode above the top 485 chip – note the correct orientation - the band on the diode goes towards the left side of the board

[[File:Ren4Flood-v1c-Step07.JPG|300px]] 

8. Install the four 470 ohm resistors near the right side of the board

[[File:Ren4Flood-v1c-Step08.JPG|300px]] 

9. Install the five 0.1uf decoupling capacitors near the IC sockets, oscillator and near the voltage regulator. Note that the silkscreen says 100nF.

[[File:Ren4Flood-v1c-Step09.JPG|300px]] 

10. Install the one 0.33uf capacitor to the right of the voltage regulator. Note that the silkscreen says 330nF. The BOM lists a 0.22uf capacitor, either a 0.22uf or a 0.33uf can be used.

[[File:Ren4Flood-v1c-Step10.JPG|300px]] 

11. Install the two 1.0uf capacitors and near the ICSP header. Note that the silkscreen says "1uF".

12. Install the one 14-pin PIC chip socket and the two 8-pin 485 chip sockets - note the correct orientation with the socket notch in the same direction as the silk screen.

[[File:Ren4Flood-v1c-Step12.JPG|300px]] 

13. Install the 18.432MHz oscillator – note the correct orientation - the package has one square corner (and a dot) and that goes into the square hole on the board

[[File:Ren4Flood-v1c-Step13.JPG|300px]] 

14. Install the two 2-pin headers on the left side of the board in the term and rs232 holes

[[File:Ren4Flood-v1c-Step14.JPG|300px]] 

15. Install the one 2x3-pin header to the left of the bottom rs485 chip

[[File:Ren4Flood-v1c-Step15.JPG|300px]] 

16. Install the one 5-pin header in the top center of the board int the holes marked ICSP

[[File:Ren4Flood-v1c-Step16.JPG|300px]] 

17. Install the LED – note correct orientation - the flat side of the LED faces to the left. The longer leg of the LED goes in the hole to the right.

[[File:Ren4Flood-v1c-Step17.JPG|300px]] 

18. Install the one 2-terminal DC input terminal blocks – note correct orientation - have the side where the power wires will be inserted facing the bottom of the board

[[File:Ren4Flood-v1c-Step18.JPG|300px]] 

19. Install the one 4-terminal trigger terminal block on the top right of the board.

[[File:Ren4Flood-v1c-Step19.JPG|300px]] 

20. Install the one 8-terminal flood terminal block to the right side of the board.

21. Install the LM7805 regulator - note correct orientation - pin 1 is denoted by the dot on the package and the board. Mount the heat sink to the device and use a small amount of heat sink compound

[[File:Ren4Flood-v1c-Step21.JPG|300px]] 

22. Install the one 1N5819 diode near the voltage regulator – note the correct orientation - the diode has the band on the diode facing towards the top of the board. If you are using 12v for the supply, you may want to install a wire jumper here instead so that the additional voltage drop does not effect the brightness as much.

[[File:Ren4Flood-v1c-Step22.JPG|300px]] 

23. Install the 470uF/16v capacitor – note correct orientation - the capacitor has a stripe on the side denoting the negative leg that goes in the hole near the "-"mark on the board.

[[File:Ren4Flood-v1c-Step23.JPG|300px]] 

24. Install the two RJ45 jacks – note that side-entry jacks can be substituted

[[File:Ren4Flood-v1c-Step24.JPG|300px]] 

25. Install the 4 transistors – note the correct orientation – the flat side of the package faces towards the bottom of the board.

[[File:Ren4Flood-v1c-Step25.JPG|300px]] 

Congratulations! That completes the construction of the Ren4Flood!

==Initial Testing==
The first thing you will want to do in any PCB construction project is to double check that you have all components installed and in the proper orientation. You will then want to inspect the board for any cold/bridged solder joints. Take your time with this step and go over each and every joint.

If you have any of the IC's installed - remove them now. Connect your power supply to the “DC IN” - it supplies power to controller portion of the board as well as the outputs. Turn on the supply and verify the power LED lights up. Verify you have 5v between pins 1 and 14 on the PIC socket as well as between pins 5 and 8 on the 485 chip sockets. Install all of the IC's if this passes. The PIC goes in the 14 pin socket with the notch facing the top of the board. The two 485 chips go in the 8 pin sockets on the left side of the board and the notches face to the left.

==Programming the PIC controllers==
The Ren4Flood does not supply or use a ZeroCross input and therefore the Renard firmware (either Renard or DMX protocol) must be configured for DC/PWM
operation. In addition, if you are using the DMX firmware, you may want to set the initial starting address but generally, this can be left at '1' for all PICs since the code is self-addressing. Also – like the ULN2803 drivers, the transistors invert the output so the firmware uses positive outputs.

===Renard Protocol===
'''Use standard Ren48LSD/Serial code - it will require you to skip channels 1-4 in your sequencer as the code still consumes 8 channels.'''
Obtain the standard Renard firmware [http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/images/d/d3/Renard-20071229.asm here:]

Make the following changes:

#define PWM_build 1 – change from '0'
#define DC_build 1 – change from '0'
#define CTR_LOCKOUT 1 – change from '15'
;#define OUTPUT_NEGATIVE_TRUE – comment this out

Compile the code into hex code and program the PIC. A standard version of the code with the settings above has been compiled already for you in the File Library available [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/dynamics/attachment.php?attachmentid=207&d=1280420686 here].

Note that when using the standard Ren48LSD/Serial code, that you need to account for eight channels even though there are only four used on the Ren4Flood. Channels 1-4 are not used and channels 5-8 are for the four outputs.

There is no trigger code written for the Ren4Flood at this time so the trigger inputs are not functional yet. This functionality may be added at a later time.

===Renard-DMX Protocol===
Obtain the Ren4Flood firmware from [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/dynamics/attachment.php?attachmentid=379&d=1316753757 here:]

If you want to change the DMX starting address then alter it below.

#define DMX_START_ADDRESS 1

Compile the code into hex code and program the PIC with the same code (unless using a starting address). A standard version of the code with the settings above has been compiled already for you in the File Library available [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/dynamics/attachment.php?attachmentid=380&d=1316753757 here].

Whichever firmware you choose, install the flashed PIC into the socket noting the correct orientation. Also install the two 485 chips into their sockets noting the correct orientation. You are now ready for final testing.

There is no trigger code written for the Ren4Flood at this time so the trigger inputs are not functional yet. This functionality will be added at a later time.

==Final Testing==
I chose not to design in the diagnostic LEDs as those used on the RenSS series of controllers. The design is fairly straight-forward and as long as you are sure of the voltage inputs and the PICs are flashed properly you should not have any issues if your soldering is good.

If you are using RS232, you should install the shunt on the "RS232" header which shorts pin 5 of the RJ45-IN connector to ground for proper RS232 operation. The wiring is the same as the RenardSS series so you can follow the cabling requiremnents for that.

As the Renard controller variations do not use bussed DMX it's not critical to install the DMX termination shunt if you are only using Renard controllers. This is because they are using point-to-point configurations. However - if this particular controller is at the end of a line of other normal (bussed) DMX devices, you should install the shunt to properly terminate the bus.

Connect the Ren4Flood to your PC using standard wiring practices as on the Wiki for other Renard controllers. Develop a Vixen sequence to turn on/off each channel one-by-one using the appropriate Renard/DMX plug-in. With the sequence running, measure the output of each terminal block pair and ensure the voltage swings from 0 to DC IN.

==TroubleShooting==
So - you've built your new Ren4Flood, connected it up to your computer and tried a quick sequence and nothing happens! There are several checks to perform in order:

===Visual Inspection===
The very first step involves a close visual inspection of the board. Double check that you have the correct component in the correct location and in the correct orientation. Look at every single solder connection and if some are not shiny or look suspect - reflow them to be sure.
===Power===
Measure across pins 1 and 14 on the PIC socket - it should read 5v

Measure across pins 5 and 8 on both RS-485 sockets - it should read 5v

If you do not measure 5v and you are using the regulator, then ensure you are providing at least 7.5vdc (and up to 24vdc) into the terminal block from your supply. If that's OK, then inspect the soldering all around the regulator and filter capacitors on the board. Ensure the filter capacitor and regulator were installed with the correct orientation.

===PIC Programming===
Reflash your PIC with the .hex file from this Wiki page or the File Library - perform a 'Verify' to be sure it's not blank

===Clocking===
With the PIC installed, measure the voltage from pin 14 (gnd) to pin 2 (OSC) on the PIC - it should not be stuck at 0 or 5v (probably close to 3.5v). If it is then you probably have a soldering issue, the oscillator was installed with the incorrect orientation or the oscillator is bad. There should be 5v between the upper left and lower right pins on the oscillator.

Another possible reason for seeing close to 5v on pin 2 is that the PIC has been programmed properly. This is due to no loading of the output from the oscillator. Before replacing the oscillator, re-verify that the PIC has been programmed.

===Communications===
From Vixen, ensure you have the appropriate plug-in selected and configured. If you are using Renard/Serial code, you should have the "Renard Dimmer (modified)" selected using Protocol Version 1 and the correct COM port selected for your serial port. Ensure the baud rate is 57600 (if using the standard image), 8-bits, no parity, 1 stop bit and that it matches the port settings in the Windows Control Panel (Device Manager) as well. Ensure your cabling is correct from the Wiki documentation for Renard (it is the same as the RenSS series). Ensure the "RS232" jumper is ON and that the "TERM" jumper is OFF.

If you are using Renard/DMX code, you should have either the "Enttec Open DMX" or "Enttec DMX USB Pro" plug-in selected (unless you are using E1.31 which is beyond this document). Ensure your DMX dongle is seen as a COM port (unplug/plug in to be sure while Vixen is not up) and the plug-in is configured to match the port number. The baud rate settings are not used for DMX (it's always 250Kbps). If using the Enttec Open dongle, you need to configure the DMX Add-In as well so that the data is streamed to the device.Ensure your cabling is correct from the Wiki documentation for Renard (it is the same as the RenSS series). Ensure the "RS232" jumper is OFF. The "TERM" jumper will probably make no difference whether it's on or off but you can try both ways to see if it makes any difference.

Note that it's not really within the scope of this document to troubleshoot Vixen/dongle/cabling issues - please go through some of the Wiki documentation and if at all possible, try to confirm on a working piece of equipment before troubleshooting something that isn't broken to begin with. It's assumed at this point that to the best of your knowledge that everything up to the "IN" jack is in working order.

Configure a short Vixen sequence with a slow on/off sequence for each channel - 1 second on, 1 second off. Alternate the odd channels so that they are the opposite polarity of the even channels. In other words, when channel 1 is ON, channel 2 is OFF or when channel 2 is ON, channel 1 is off. Create a 4-channel sequence in this fashion so you can test all channels at once. With the sequence running, measure the outputs of the PIC at pins 10, 9, 8 and 7. You should see each pin alternate from 0v to 5v once a second matching the sequence. If this is not the case, then sequencing data is not being received by the PIC(s).

Measure the voltage at pin 5 on PIC with the same sequence running (from ground). it should be alternating between 0v and 5v and not be stuck at one or the other. If it appears stuck, then inspect the "IN" RS-485 chip (and the entire path from it to pin 5 on the PIC) and ensure there are no bent pins (including the RJ45 jack itself), cold solder joints. Swap the two RS485 chips to see if that resolves the issue.

If the problem is with a daisy-chained controller FROM this Ren4Flood, then inspect the RS-485 "OUT" chip closely for bent pins, solder issues, etc. Check the output RJ45 jack for crossed pins. Swap the RS-485 chips to see if that helps. Note that ALL output from the Ren4Flood is at RS-485 levels so the daisy-chained controller should not have the RS-232 jumper enabled.

===Output Drivers===
It's assumed at this point that you have checked that a sequence can drive the PIC outputs properly between 0 and 5v OK. With the PIC(s) removed and power on, connect a ''known good device'' (flood, RGB strip, etc) to the output socket(s) in question.

Use a piece of hookup wire and connect the wire from pin 1 to the following pins:

:Pin 10 - channel 1
:Pin 9 - channel 2
:Pin 8 - channel 3
:Pin 7 - channel 4

After connecting the wire to the output pins, the device should turn on. If it does not, then it's possible the output driver (transistor) is bad. Check the path from the PIC output pin you are testing through the 470 ohm resistor and to the base of the transistor in question. The nomenclature (name) of the transistor matches the channel number so "Q2" is for channel 2. Replacements may have been included with your kit or you can get them at RadioShack - most MPS2222a, PN2222A or 2N3904 types can be subsituted. If you have multiple transistors bad, then you should investigate how this happened before replacing the transistors since there's a good chance they will simply blow again.

==FAQ==
What are the jumper settings for the board? 
There are three jumper settings on the Ren4Flood pcb.

1) The first jumper is the TERM jumper. You may need to connect the shunt across the two pins if this is the last device in a string of DMX devices.

2) The second jumper is the RS232 jumper. You may need to connect the shunt across the two pins if you are sending data to the board using RS232 signaling.

3) The Third jumper is the THRU jumper. This is a 2x3 header. For "normal" Renard operation, there should be a pair of jumpers across both 1&2 (they go vertically). For "THRU" they should go across 2&3. Basically this jumpers pins 4&5 from the IN connector directly to the OUT connector. If you use the THRU connection using the standard Ren48LSD code, it will not be an issue since ALL data is bypassed across the connector. You will need to set the starting address on each PIC however.

Can you program the pic while it is on the board? 
Yes, by using the ICSP header connected to your PIC2 or PIC3 programmer you can program the PIC while it is on the board. Please make sure to note the orientation of pin 1 of the ICSP header (marked by the arrow at the top).

==Schematic==

Here is the schematic drawing for the Ren4Flood v1c in PDF format [[Media:Ren4Flood-v1c.pdf]]

=PCB=
The PCBs for the Ren4Flood were designed by [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/member.php?1986-budude Brian Ullmark (budude)]. The PCB is 4.75" x 2.1". The PCB is available from [http://www.diyledexpress.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=4&products_id=24 DIYLEDExpress.com] 

[[File:Ren4Flood-v1c-PCB1.jpg|300px]] 

----

[[Category:DIYC Controllers]]
[[Category:Renard]]
[[Category:DIYC Index]]

Ren4Flood

2013-04-17T03:11:03Z

Budude: /* Building the Ren4Flood */

=Ren4Flood Construction Manual=
Please see the standard [[Disclaimers|Disclaimers]] 

[[File:Ren4Flood-v1c-Step26.JPG|300px]] 

==What is the Ren4Flood?==
The Ren4Flood is a four channel controller primarily aimed at controlling an RGB+W LED flood such as the MightyMini, Rainbow Flood (RGB only) or the [[DIYC_Flood|DIYC Flood]]. It uses the existing Renard architecture and code which has been modified to only consume four channels versus the normal eight that a Renard uses per PIC. The logic/control/communication portion of the circuit comes straight from the RenardSS series of controllers so much of the credit goes to Wayne James and of course Phil Short for their contributions. The output section is taken from the Ren48LSD but reduced to only four channels. One minor difference on the RS-485 interface is that jumpers have been added to bypass the input directly to the output creating a non-regenerated "THRU" port instead of the more common output port on the RenSS series. This allows you to use static node addressing without affecting other nodes further up/down the line.

The other significant difference with the Ren4Flood is that it employs two input trigger ports. While this is not completely defined at the moment, the idea is of at least two different scenarios. The first allowing the installation of a switch to be mounted to the flood enclosure and simply turning on all of the LEDs to create a bright flood to be used during setup or off-season. The other scenario is using a trigger for security reasons. The input would be connected to some type of N/O switches and closing the switch would trigger the board to perform some type of light effect to scare off and/or alert you to this. Additional code could be used to monitor the input for data and if after a particular time period passes with no traffic (say 15 minutes), a light pattern would start for a set length of time to create simple mood/background lighting after the show completes.

==How does the Ren4Flood work?==
As mentioned before, the Ren4Flood uses the same architecture for the logic portions of the board from the RenardSS series of boards. Sequence information is passed from a PC running Vixen or other sequencing program via an RS-232 or RS-485/DMX interface. The ST485 chips receive this information and turn into standard TTL logic levels that the PIC can understand. The PIC reads in the data and if it determines that the information corresponds to itself, it updates the dimming levels of all 4 channels. It removes this information from the stream and feeds the rest out to the other ST485 chip which translates it to RS-485 levels for the next controller in the line. It is important to realize that the information is removed from the stream and that the resultant leftover stream will have all of the data offset by the 4 channels of information used by the Ren4Flood. For example, if you have two Ren4Flood, on Vixen you would configure a single Renard/DMX plug-in with 8 channels. The first Ren4Flood consumes the first 4 channels of information leaving only 4 channels on it's outputs. The second Ren4Flood will see this incoming data as controller #1 again and assume the data is for it. This is very much different than standard hard/soft-coded DMX or LOR devices that use a set address yet still pass on the entire stream to the next controller on the line. There are advantages and disadvantages to either approach - but you should be aware of this when combining normal DMX devices before/after a Ren4Flood (or any Renard controller running DMX code).

The Ren4Flood has a jumper to bypass this however and can pass the data straight from the input to the output plug. This means you will need to set the hardware address by programming the PIC with different addresses on each Ren4Flood controller.

The PICs receive the data on pin 5 and after consuming their 4 channels of data, forward the rest out of pin 6 of the PIC which in turn goes to the next controller if you have one attached as mentioned above.

The board requires a 12-24vdc supply which is converted to +5v for the logic portion of the controller but is also fed directly out to the outputs via the transistors.

The Ren4Flood uses sourced outputs and not sinked outputs like the RenardSS controllers. Why is this? Because the PIC needs to turn on a transistor and to do this, it supplies 5v on it's output which turns on the transistor (via a resistor to limit the current) which allows current to flow from the collector to the emitter of the transistor. The emitter is directly connected to ground so basically, the transistor sinks the current from the LEDs (or whatever you have attached to the output) to ground. The positive voltage from the DC power supply connects directly to the device you have attached and this completes the circuit.

==Revision History==
The v1c version is currently the only version of the Ren4Flood in production.

==Ren4Flood (v1c) Parts==
In addition to the PCB, you will need the following components:

<table border="1"><tr><td>'''Mouser BOM'''</td></tr>
<tr><td>Mouser PN</td><td>Description</td><td>Qty</td></tr>
<tr><td>579-PIC16F688-I/P</td><td>Microcontrollers (MCU) 7KB 256 RAM 12 I/O</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>571-1-390261-3</td><td>IC & Component Sockets 14P ECONOMY TIN</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>511-ST485BN</td><td>Buffers & Line Drivers Hi-Spd Lo Pwr Trans</td><td>2</td></tr>
<tr><td>571-1-390261-2</td><td>IC & Component Sockets 8P ECONOMY TIN</td><td>2</td></tr>
<tr><td>520-TCH1843-X</td><td>ECS-2100AX-18.432MHZ</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>863-MPS2222AG</td><td>Bipolar Transistors 600mA 75V NPN</td><td>4</td></tr>
<tr><td>78-1N5239B</td><td>Zener Diodes 9.1 Volt 0.5 Watt</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>78-1N5229B</td><td>Zener Diodes 4.3 Volt 0.5 Watt</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>863-1N5819G</td><td>Schottky (Diodes & Rectifiers) 1A 40V</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>512-LM7805CT</td><td>Linear Regulators - Standard 1A Pos Vol Reg</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>532-577102B00</td><td>Heatsinks TO-220 HORIZ/VERT SLIM CHANNEL STYLE</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>604-WP7113ID</td><td>Standard LED - Through Hole HI EFF RED DIFFUSED</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>581-SA105E104MAR</td><td>Multilayer Ceramic Capacitors (MLCC) - Leaded 50volts 0.1uF 20% Z5U</td><td>5</td></tr>
<tr><td>647-UHE1C471MPD</td><td>Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - Leaded 16volts 470uF 105c 8x15 3.5LS</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>581-SA105E224MAR</td><td>Multilayer Ceramic Capacitors (MLCC) - Leaded 50volts 0.22uF 20% Z5U</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>581-SA305E105MAR</td><td>Multilayer Ceramic Capacitors (MLCC) - Leaded 50volts 1uF 20% Z5U</td><td>2</td></tr>
<tr><td>299-680-RC</td><td>Carbon Film Resistors 680ohms</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>299-120-RC</td><td>Carbon Film Resistors 120ohms</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>299-27K-RC</td><td>Carbon Film Resistors 27Kohms</td><td>2</td></tr>
<tr><td>299-1K-RC</td><td>Carbon Film Resistors 1.0Kohms</td><td>4</td></tr>
<tr><td>299-470-RC</td><td>Carbon Film Resistors 470ohms</td><td>4</td></tr>
<tr><td>299-10K-RC</td><td>Carbon Film Resistors 10Kohms</td><td>3</td></tr>
<tr><td>571-5556416-1</td><td>Telecom & Ethernet Connectors 8 PCB TOP ENTRY</td><td>2</td></tr>
<tr><td>571-7969492</td><td>Terminal Blocks 5.08MM VERTICAL 2P wire protector</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>651-1727078</td><td>Fixed Terminal Blocks 8P 3.81mm 90DEG</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>651-1727036</td><td>Fixed Terminal Blocks 4P 3.81mm 90DEG</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>538-22-28-4056</td><td>Headers & Wire Housings 5CKT VERT HDR</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>538-70287-1001</td><td>Headers & Wire Housings C-GRID .100" 2X03P VT HDR </td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>571-5-146281-2</td><td>Headers & Wire Housings 2 P HEADER GOLD 30u single row</td><td>2</td></tr>
<tr><td>649-65474-002LF</td><td>Headers & Wire Housings SHUNT TIN</td><td>3</td></tr>
</table>

[http://www.mouser.com:80/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=aef7433f52 Click here for Mouser Direct Project BOM]

Most of the components are not overly critical and some can be omitted in certain cases.

The BOM is available from [http://www.diyledexpress.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=4&products_id=9 DIYLEDExpress.com] 

==Building the Ren4Flood==

The Ren4Flood requires a modest bit of soldering so take your time and ensure you install the components in the correct orientation when required. Start by sorting the components by type and values. Look over the PCB before starting noting the location of the various components. Follow the standard procedure of installing the lowest profile parts first and ending up with the tallest. Begin by inspecting the PCBs to look for any defects such as cracks or breaks. The holes on the board should be open on both sides. Then inspect and sort out the various parts for the board.

[[File:Ren4Flood-v1c-Step00.JPG|300px]] 

1. Install the three 10k resistors near top center of the board

[[File:Ren4Flood-v1c-Step01.JPG|300px]] 

2. Install the four 1k resistors two near the top 485 chip and two near the middle of the board

[[File:Ren4Flood-v1c-Step02.JPG|300px]] 

3. Install the two 27k resistors near the top 485 chip

[[File:Ren4Flood-v1c-Step03.JPG|300px]] 

4. Install the one 120 resistor near the top 485 chip

[[File:Ren4Flood-v1c-Step04.JPG|300px]] 

5. Install the one 680 resistor near the LED in the middle of the board

[[File:Ren4Flood-v1c-Step05.JPG|300px]] 

6. Install the 1N5229 diode above the top 485 chip – note the correct orientation - the band on the diode goes towards the right side of the board

[[File:Ren4Flood-v1c-Step06.JPG|300px]] 

7. Install the 1N5239 diode above the top 485 chip – note the correct orientation - the band on the diode goes towards the left side of the board

[[File:Ren4Flood-v1c-Step07.JPG|300px]] 

8. Install the four 470 ohm resistors near the right side of the board

[[File:Ren4Flood-v1c-Step08.JPG|300px]] 

9. Install the five 0.1uf decoupling capacitors near the IC sockets, oscillator and near the voltage regulator. Note that the silkscreen says 100nF.

[[File:Ren4Flood-v1c-Step09.JPG|300px]] 

10. Install the one 0.33uf capacitor to the right of the voltage regulator. Note that the silkscreen says 330nF. The BOM lists a 0.22uf capacitor, either a 0.22uf or a 0.33uf can be used.

[[File:Ren4Flood-v1c-Step10.JPG|300px]] 

11. Install the two 1.0uf capacitors and near the ICSP header. Note that the silkscreen says "1uF".

12. Install the one 14-pin PIC chip socket and the two 8-pin 485 chip sockets - note the correct orientation with the socket notch in the same direction as the silk screen.

[[File:Ren4Flood-v1c-Step12.JPG|300px]] 

13. Install the 18.432MHz oscillator – note the correct orientation - the package has one square corner (and a dot) and that goes into the square hole on the board

[[File:Ren4Flood-v1c-Step13.JPG|300px]] 

14. Install the two 2-pin headers on the left side of the board in the term and rs232 holes

[[File:Ren4Flood-v1c-Step14.JPG|300px]] 

15. Install the one 2x3-pin header to the left of the bottom rs485 chip

[[File:Ren4Flood-v1c-Step15.JPG|300px]] 

16. Install the one 5-pin header in the top center of the board int the holes marked ICSP

[[File:Ren4Flood-v1c-Step16.JPG|300px]] 

17. Install the LED – note correct orientation - the flat side of the LED faces to the left. The longer leg of the LED goes in the hole to the right.

[[File:Ren4Flood-v1c-Step17.JPG|300px]] 

18. Install the one 2-terminal DC input terminal blocks – note correct orientation - have the side where the power wires will be inserted facing the bottom of the board

[[File:Ren4Flood-v1c-Step18.JPG|300px]] 

19. Install the one 4-terminal trigger terminal block on the top right of the board.

[[File:Ren4Flood-v1c-Step19.JPG|300px]] 

20. Install the one 8-terminal flood terminal block to the right side of the board.

21. Install the LM7805 regulator - note correct orientation - pin 1 is denoted by the dot on the package and the board. Mount the heat sink to the device and use a small amount of heat sink compound

[[File:Ren4Flood-v1c-Step21.JPG|300px]] 

22. Install the one 1N5819 diode near the voltage regulator – note the correct orientation - the diode has the band on the diode facing towards the top of the board. If you are using 12v for the supply, you may want to install a wire jumper here instead so that the additional voltage drop does not effect the brightness as much.

[[File:Ren4Flood-v1c-Step22.JPG|300px]] 

23. Install the 470uF/16v capacitor – note correct orientation - the capacitor has a stripe on the side denoting the negative leg that goes in the hole near the "-"mark on the board.

[[File:Ren4Flood-v1c-Step23.JPG|300px]] 

24. Install the two RJ45 jacks – note that side-entry jacks can be substituted

[[File:Ren4Flood-v1c-Step24.JPG|300px]] 

25. Install the 4 transistors – note the correct orientation – the flat side of the package faces towards the bottom of the board.

[[File:Ren4Flood-v1c-Step25.JPG|300px]] 

Congratulations! That completes the construction of the Ren4Flood!

==Initial Testing==
The first thing you will want to do in any PCB construction project is to double check that you have all components installed and in the proper orientation. You will then want to inspect the board for any cold/bridged solder joints. Take your time with this step and go over each and every joint.

If you have any of the IC's installed - remove them now. Connect your power supply to the “DC IN” - it supplies power to controller portion of the board as well as the outputs. Turn on the supply and verify the power LED lights up. Verify you have 5v between pins 1 and 14 on the PIC socket as well as between pins 5 and 8 on the 485 chip sockets. Install all of the IC's if this passes. The PIC goes in the 14 pin socket with the notch facing the top of the board. The two 485 chips go in the 8 pin sockets on the left side of the board and the notches face to the left.

==Programming the PIC controllers==
The Ren4Flood does not supply or use a ZeroCross input and therefore the Renard firmware (either Renard or DMX protocol) must be configured for DC/PWM
operation. In addition, if you are using the DMX firmware, you may want to set the initial starting address but generally, this can be left at '1' for all PICs since the code is self-addressing. Also – like the ULN2803 drivers, the transistors invert the output so the firmware uses positive outputs.

===Renard Protocol===
'''4-channel Renard/Serial firmware for the Ren4Flood will be coming soon - for now use standard Ren48LSD/Serial code'''
Obtain the standard Renard firmware [http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/images/d/d3/Renard-20071229.asm here:]

Make the following changes:

#define PWM_build 1 – change from '0'
#define DC_build 1 – change from '0'
#define CTR_LOCKOUT 1 – change from '15'
;#define OUTPUT_NEGATIVE_TRUE – comment this out

Compile the code into hex code and program the PIC. A standard version of the code with the settings above has been compiled already for you in the File Library available [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/dynamics/attachment.php?attachmentid=207&d=1280420686 here].

Note that when using the standard Ren48LSD/Serial code, that you need to account for eight channels even though there are only four used on the Ren4Flood. Channels 1-4 are not used and channels 5-8 are for the four outputs.

There is no trigger code written for the Ren4Flood at this time so the trigger inputs are not functional yet. This functionality will be added at a later time.

===Renard-DMX Protocol===
Obtain the Ren4Flood firmware from [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/dynamics/attachment.php?attachmentid=379&d=1316753757 here:]

If you want to change the DMX starting address then alter it below.

#define DMX_START_ADDRESS 1

Compile the code into hex code and program the PIC with the same code (unless using a starting address). A standard version of the code with the settings above has been compiled already for you in the File Library available [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/dynamics/attachment.php?attachmentid=380&d=1316753757 here].

Whichever firmware you choose, install the flashed PIC into the socket noting the correct orientation. Also install the two 485 chips into their sockets noting the correct orientation. You are now ready for final testing.

There is no trigger code written for the Ren4Flood at this time so the trigger inputs are not functional yet. This functionality will be added at a later time.

==Final Testing==
I chose not to design in the diagnostic LEDs as those used on the RenSS series of controllers. The design is fairly straight-forward and as long as you are sure of the voltage inputs and the PICs are flashed properly you should not have any issues if your soldering is good.

If you are using RS232, you should install the shunt on the "RS232" header which shorts pin 5 of the RJ45-IN connector to ground for proper RS232 operation. The wiring is the same as the RenardSS series so you can follow the cabling requiremnents for that.

As the Renard controller variations do not use bussed DMX it's not critical to install the DMX termination shunt if you are only using Renard controllers. This is because they are using point-to-point configurations. However - if this particular controller is at the end of a line of other normal (bussed) DMX devices, you should install the shunt to properly terminate the bus.

Connect the Ren4Flood to your PC using standard wiring practices as on the Wiki for other Renard controllers. Develop a Vixen sequence to turn on/off each channel one-by-one using the appropriate Renard/DMX plug-in. With the sequence running, measure the output of each terminal block pair and ensure the voltage swings from 0 to DC IN.

==TroubleShooting==
So - you've built your new Ren4Flood, connected it up to your computer and tried a quick sequence and nothing happens! There are several checks to perform in order:

===Visual Inspection===
The very first step involves a close visual inspection of the board. Double check that you have the correct component in the correct location and in the correct orientation. Look at every single solder connection and if some are not shiny or look suspect - reflow them to be sure.
===Power===
Measure across pins 1 and 14 on the PIC socket - it should read 5v

Measure across pins 5 and 8 on both RS-485 sockets - it should read 5v

If you do not measure 5v and you are using the regulator, then ensure you are providing at least 7.5vdc (and up to 24vdc) into the terminal block from your supply. If that's OK, then inspect the soldering all around the regulator and filter capacitors on the board. Ensure the filter capacitor and regulator were installed with the correct orientation.

===PIC Programming===
Reflash your PIC with the .hex file from this Wiki page or the File Library - perform a 'Verify' to be sure it's not blank

===Clocking===
With the PIC installed, measure the voltage from pin 14 (gnd) to pin 2 (OSC) on the PIC - it should not be stuck at 0 or 5v (probably close to 3.5v). If it is then you probably have a soldering issue, the oscillator was installed with the incorrect orientation or the oscillator is bad. There should be 5v between the upper left and lower right pins on the oscillator.

Another possible reason for seeing close to 5v on pin 2 is that the PIC has been programmed properly. This is due to no loading of the output from the oscillator. Before replacing the oscillator, re-verify that the PIC has been programmed.

===Communications===
From Vixen, ensure you have the appropriate plug-in selected and configured. If you are using Renard/Serial code, you should have the "Renard Dimmer (modified)" selected using Protocol Version 1 and the correct COM port selected for your serial port. Ensure the baud rate is 57600 (if using the standard image), 8-bits, no parity, 1 stop bit and that it matches the port settings in the Windows Control Panel (Device Manager) as well. Ensure your cabling is correct from the Wiki documentation for Renard (it is the same as the RenSS series). Ensure the "RS232" jumper is ON and that the "TERM" jumper is OFF.

If you are using Renard/DMX code, you should have either the "Enttec Open DMX" or "Enttec DMX USB Pro" plug-in selected (unless you are using E1.31 which is beyond this document). Ensure your DMX dongle is seen as a COM port (unplug/plug in to be sure while Vixen is not up) and the plug-in is configured to match the port number. The baud rate settings are not used for DMX (it's always 250Kbps). If using the Enttec Open dongle, you need to configure the DMX Add-In as well so that the data is streamed to the device.Ensure your cabling is correct from the Wiki documentation for Renard (it is the same as the RenSS series). Ensure the "RS232" jumper is OFF. The "TERM" jumper will probably make no difference whether it's on or off but you can try both ways to see if it makes any difference.

Note that it's not really within the scope of this document to troubleshoot Vixen/dongle/cabling issues - please go through some of the Wiki documentation and if at all possible, try to confirm on a working piece of equipment before troubleshooting something that isn't broken to begin with. It's assumed at this point that to the best of your knowledge that everything up to the "IN" jack is in working order.

Configure a short Vixen sequence with a slow on/off sequence for each channel - 1 second on, 1 second off. Alternate the odd channels so that they are the opposite polarity of the even channels. In other words, when channel 1 is ON, channel 2 is OFF or when channel 2 is ON, channel 1 is off. Create a 4-channel sequence in this fashion so you can test all channels at once. With the sequence running, measure the outputs of the PIC at pins 10, 9, 8 and 7. You should see each pin alternate from 0v to 5v once a second matching the sequence. If this is not the case, then sequencing data is not being received by the PIC(s).

Measure the voltage at pin 5 on PIC with the same sequence running (from ground). it should be alternating between 0v and 5v and not be stuck at one or the other. If it appears stuck, then inspect the "IN" RS-485 chip (and the entire path from it to pin 5 on the PIC) and ensure there are no bent pins (including the RJ45 jack itself), cold solder joints. Swap the two RS485 chips to see if that resolves the issue.

If the problem is with a daisy-chained controller FROM this Ren4Flood, then inspect the RS-485 "OUT" chip closely for bent pins, solder issues, etc. Check the output RJ45 jack for crossed pins. Swap the RS-485 chips to see if that helps. Note that ALL output from the Ren4Flood is at RS-485 levels so the daisy-chained controller should not have the RS-232 jumper enabled.

===Output Drivers===
It's assumed at this point that you have checked that a sequence can drive the PIC outputs properly between 0 and 5v OK. With the PIC(s) removed and power on, connect a ''known good device'' (flood, RGB strip, etc) to the output socket(s) in question.

Use a piece of hookup wire and connect the wire from pin 1 to the following pins:

:Pin 10 - channel 1
:Pin 9 - channel 2
:Pin 8 - channel 3
:Pin 7 - channel 4

After connecting the wire to the output pins, the device should turn on. If it does not, then it's possible the output driver (transistor) is bad. Check the path from the PIC output pin you are testing through the 470 ohm resistor and to the base of the transistor in question. The nomenclature (name) of the transistor matches the channel number so "Q2" is for channel 2. Replacements may have been included with your kit or you can get them at RadioShack - most MPS2222a, PN2222A or 2N3904 types can be subsituted. If you have multiple transistors bad, then you should investigate how this happened before replacing the transistors since there's a good chance they will simply blow again.

==FAQ==
What are the jumper settings for the board? 
There are three jumper settings on the Ren4Flood pcb.

1) The first jumper is the TERM jumper. You may need to connect the shunt across the two pins if this is the last device in a string of DMX devices.

2) The second jumper is the RS232 jumper. You may need to connect the shunt across the two pins if you are sending data to the board using RS232 signaling.

3) The Third jumper is the THRU jumper. This is a 2x3 header. For "normal" Renard operation, there should be a pair of jumpers across both 1&2 (they go vertically). For "THRU" they should go across 2&3. Basically this jumpers pins 4&5 from the IN connector directly to the OUT connector. If you use the THRU connection using the standard Ren48LSD code, it will not be an issue since ALL data is bypassed across the connector. You will need to set the starting address on each PIC however.

Can you program the pic while it is on the board? 
Yes, by using the ICSP header connected to your PIC2 or PIC3 programmer you can program the PIC while it is on the board. Please make sure to note the orientation of pin 1 of the ICSP header (marked by the arrow at the top).

==Schematic==

Here is the schematic drawing for the Ren4Flood v1c in PDF format [[Media:Ren4Flood-v1c.pdf]]

=PCB=
The PCBs for the Ren4Flood were designed by [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/member.php?1986-budude Brian Ullmark (budude)]. The PCB is 4.75" x 2.1". The PCB is available from [http://www.diyledexpress.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=4&products_id=24 DIYLEDExpress.com] 

[[File:Ren4Flood-v1c-PCB1.jpg|300px]] 

----

[[Category:DIYC Controllers]]
[[Category:Renard]]
[[Category:DIYC Index]]

Ren4Flood

2013-04-17T03:09:12Z

Budude: /* Building the Ren4Flood */

=Ren4Flood Construction Manual=
Please see the standard [[Disclaimers|Disclaimers]] 

[[File:Ren4Flood-v1c-Step26.JPG|300px]] 

==What is the Ren4Flood?==
The Ren4Flood is a four channel controller primarily aimed at controlling an RGB+W LED flood such as the MightyMini, Rainbow Flood (RGB only) or the [[DIYC_Flood|DIYC Flood]]. It uses the existing Renard architecture and code which has been modified to only consume four channels versus the normal eight that a Renard uses per PIC. The logic/control/communication portion of the circuit comes straight from the RenardSS series of controllers so much of the credit goes to Wayne James and of course Phil Short for their contributions. The output section is taken from the Ren48LSD but reduced to only four channels. One minor difference on the RS-485 interface is that jumpers have been added to bypass the input directly to the output creating a non-regenerated "THRU" port instead of the more common output port on the RenSS series. This allows you to use static node addressing without affecting other nodes further up/down the line.

The other significant difference with the Ren4Flood is that it employs two input trigger ports. While this is not completely defined at the moment, the idea is of at least two different scenarios. The first allowing the installation of a switch to be mounted to the flood enclosure and simply turning on all of the LEDs to create a bright flood to be used during setup or off-season. The other scenario is using a trigger for security reasons. The input would be connected to some type of N/O switches and closing the switch would trigger the board to perform some type of light effect to scare off and/or alert you to this. Additional code could be used to monitor the input for data and if after a particular time period passes with no traffic (say 15 minutes), a light pattern would start for a set length of time to create simple mood/background lighting after the show completes.

==How does the Ren4Flood work?==
As mentioned before, the Ren4Flood uses the same architecture for the logic portions of the board from the RenardSS series of boards. Sequence information is passed from a PC running Vixen or other sequencing program via an RS-232 or RS-485/DMX interface. The ST485 chips receive this information and turn into standard TTL logic levels that the PIC can understand. The PIC reads in the data and if it determines that the information corresponds to itself, it updates the dimming levels of all 4 channels. It removes this information from the stream and feeds the rest out to the other ST485 chip which translates it to RS-485 levels for the next controller in the line. It is important to realize that the information is removed from the stream and that the resultant leftover stream will have all of the data offset by the 4 channels of information used by the Ren4Flood. For example, if you have two Ren4Flood, on Vixen you would configure a single Renard/DMX plug-in with 8 channels. The first Ren4Flood consumes the first 4 channels of information leaving only 4 channels on it's outputs. The second Ren4Flood will see this incoming data as controller #1 again and assume the data is for it. This is very much different than standard hard/soft-coded DMX or LOR devices that use a set address yet still pass on the entire stream to the next controller on the line. There are advantages and disadvantages to either approach - but you should be aware of this when combining normal DMX devices before/after a Ren4Flood (or any Renard controller running DMX code).

The Ren4Flood has a jumper to bypass this however and can pass the data straight from the input to the output plug. This means you will need to set the hardware address by programming the PIC with different addresses on each Ren4Flood controller.

The PICs receive the data on pin 5 and after consuming their 4 channels of data, forward the rest out of pin 6 of the PIC which in turn goes to the next controller if you have one attached as mentioned above.

The board requires a 12-24vdc supply which is converted to +5v for the logic portion of the controller but is also fed directly out to the outputs via the transistors.

The Ren4Flood uses sourced outputs and not sinked outputs like the RenardSS controllers. Why is this? Because the PIC needs to turn on a transistor and to do this, it supplies 5v on it's output which turns on the transistor (via a resistor to limit the current) which allows current to flow from the collector to the emitter of the transistor. The emitter is directly connected to ground so basically, the transistor sinks the current from the LEDs (or whatever you have attached to the output) to ground. The positive voltage from the DC power supply connects directly to the device you have attached and this completes the circuit.

==Revision History==
The v1c version is currently the only version of the Ren4Flood in production.

==Ren4Flood (v1c) Parts==
In addition to the PCB, you will need the following components:

<table border="1"><tr><td>'''Mouser BOM'''</td></tr>
<tr><td>Mouser PN</td><td>Description</td><td>Qty</td></tr>
<tr><td>579-PIC16F688-I/P</td><td>Microcontrollers (MCU) 7KB 256 RAM 12 I/O</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>571-1-390261-3</td><td>IC & Component Sockets 14P ECONOMY TIN</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>511-ST485BN</td><td>Buffers & Line Drivers Hi-Spd Lo Pwr Trans</td><td>2</td></tr>
<tr><td>571-1-390261-2</td><td>IC & Component Sockets 8P ECONOMY TIN</td><td>2</td></tr>
<tr><td>520-TCH1843-X</td><td>ECS-2100AX-18.432MHZ</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>863-MPS2222AG</td><td>Bipolar Transistors 600mA 75V NPN</td><td>4</td></tr>
<tr><td>78-1N5239B</td><td>Zener Diodes 9.1 Volt 0.5 Watt</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>78-1N5229B</td><td>Zener Diodes 4.3 Volt 0.5 Watt</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>863-1N5819G</td><td>Schottky (Diodes & Rectifiers) 1A 40V</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>512-LM7805CT</td><td>Linear Regulators - Standard 1A Pos Vol Reg</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>532-577102B00</td><td>Heatsinks TO-220 HORIZ/VERT SLIM CHANNEL STYLE</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>604-WP7113ID</td><td>Standard LED - Through Hole HI EFF RED DIFFUSED</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>581-SA105E104MAR</td><td>Multilayer Ceramic Capacitors (MLCC) - Leaded 50volts 0.1uF 20% Z5U</td><td>5</td></tr>
<tr><td>647-UHE1C471MPD</td><td>Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - Leaded 16volts 470uF 105c 8x15 3.5LS</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>581-SA105E224MAR</td><td>Multilayer Ceramic Capacitors (MLCC) - Leaded 50volts 0.22uF 20% Z5U</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>581-SA305E105MAR</td><td>Multilayer Ceramic Capacitors (MLCC) - Leaded 50volts 1uF 20% Z5U</td><td>2</td></tr>
<tr><td>299-680-RC</td><td>Carbon Film Resistors 680ohms</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>299-120-RC</td><td>Carbon Film Resistors 120ohms</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>299-27K-RC</td><td>Carbon Film Resistors 27Kohms</td><td>2</td></tr>
<tr><td>299-1K-RC</td><td>Carbon Film Resistors 1.0Kohms</td><td>4</td></tr>
<tr><td>299-470-RC</td><td>Carbon Film Resistors 470ohms</td><td>4</td></tr>
<tr><td>299-10K-RC</td><td>Carbon Film Resistors 10Kohms</td><td>3</td></tr>
<tr><td>571-5556416-1</td><td>Telecom & Ethernet Connectors 8 PCB TOP ENTRY</td><td>2</td></tr>
<tr><td>571-7969492</td><td>Terminal Blocks 5.08MM VERTICAL 2P wire protector</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>651-1727078</td><td>Fixed Terminal Blocks 8P 3.81mm 90DEG</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>651-1727036</td><td>Fixed Terminal Blocks 4P 3.81mm 90DEG</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>538-22-28-4056</td><td>Headers & Wire Housings 5CKT VERT HDR</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>538-70287-1001</td><td>Headers & Wire Housings C-GRID .100" 2X03P VT HDR </td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>571-5-146281-2</td><td>Headers & Wire Housings 2 P HEADER GOLD 30u single row</td><td>2</td></tr>
<tr><td>649-65474-002LF</td><td>Headers & Wire Housings SHUNT TIN</td><td>3</td></tr>
</table>

[http://www.mouser.com:80/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=aef7433f52 Click here for Mouser Direct Project BOM]

Most of the components are not overly critical and some can be omitted in certain cases.

The BOM is available from [http://www.diyledexpress.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=4&products_id=9 DIYLEDExpress.com] 

==Building the Ren4Flood==

The Ren4Flood requires a modest bit of soldering so take your time and ensure you install the components in the correct orientation when required. Start by sorting the components by type and values. Look over the PCB before starting noting the location of the various components. Follow the standard procedure of installing the lowest profile parts first and ending up with the tallest. Begin by inspecting the PCBs to look for any defects such as cracks or breaks. The holes on the board should be open on both sides. Then inspect and sort out the various parts for the board.

[[File:Ren4Flood-v1c-Step00.JPG|300px]] 

1. Install the three 10k resistors near top center of the board

[[File:Ren4Flood-v1c-Step01.JPG|300px]] 

2. Install the four 1k resistors two near the top 485 chip and two near the middle of the board

[[File:Ren4Flood-v1c-Step02.JPG|300px]] 

3. Install the two 27k resistors near the top 485 chip

[[File:Ren4Flood-v1c-Step03.JPG|300px]] 

4. Install the one 120 resistor near the top 485 chip

[[File:Ren4Flood-v1c-Step04.JPG|300px]] 

5. Install the one 680 resistor near the LED in the middle of the board

[[File:Ren4Flood-v1c-Step05.JPG|300px]] 

6. Install the 1N5229 diode above the top 485 chip – note the correct orientation - the band on the diode goes towards the right side of the board

[[File:Ren4Flood-v1c-Step06.JPG|300px]] 

7. Install the 1N5239 diode above the top 485 chip – note the correct orientation - the band on the diode goes towards the left side of the board

[[File:Ren4Flood-v1c-Step07.JPG|300px]] 

8. Install the four 470 ohm resistors near the right side of the board

[[File:Ren4Flood-v1c-Step08.JPG|300px]] 

9. Install the five 0.1uf decoupling capacitors near the IC sockets, oscillator and near the voltage regulator. Note that the silkscreen says 100nF.

[[File:Ren4Flood-v1c-Step09.JPG|300px]] 

10. Install the one 0.33uf capacitor to the right of the voltage regulator. Note that the silkscreen says 330nF. The BOM lists a 0.22uf capacitor, either a 0.22uf or a 0.33uf can be used.

[[File:Ren4Flood-v1c-Step10.JPG|300px]] 

11. Install the two 1.0uf capacitors and near the ICSP header. Note that the silkscreen says "1uF".

12. Install the one 14-pin PIC chip socket and the two 8-pin 485 chip sockets - note the correct orientation with the socket notch in the same direction as the silk screen.

[[File:Ren4Flood-v1c-Step12.JPG|300px]] 

13. Install the 18.432MHz oscillator – note the correct orientation - the package has one square corner (and a dot) and that goes into the square hole on the board

[[File:Ren4Flood-v1c-Step13.JPG|300px]] 

14. Install the two 2-pin headers on the left side of the board in the term and rs232 holes

[[File:Ren4Flood-v1c-Step14.JPG|300px]] 

15. Install the one 2x3-pin header to the left of the bottom rs485 chip

[[File:Ren4Flood-v1c-Step15.JPG|300px]] 

16. Install the one 5-pin header in the top center of the board int the holes marked ICSP

[[File:Ren4Flood-v1c-Step16.JPG|300px]] 

17. Install the LED – note correct orientation - the flat side of the LED faces to the left. The longer leg of the LED goes in the hole to the right.

[[File:Ren4Flood-v1c-Step17.JPG|300px]] 

18. Install the one 2-terminal DC input terminal blocks – note correct orientation - have the side where the power wires will be inserted facing the bottom of the board

[[File:Ren4Flood-v1c-Step18.JPG|300px]] 

19. Install the one 4-terminal trigger terminal block on the top right of the board.

[[File:Ren4Flood-v1c-Step19.JPG|300px]] 

20. Install the one 8-terminal flood terminal block to the right side of the board.

21. Install the LM7805 regulator - note correct orientation - pin 1 is denoted by the dot on the package and the board. Mount the heat sink to the device and use a small amount of heat sink compound

[[File:Ren4Flood-v1c-Step21.JPG|300px]] 

22. Install the one 1N5819 diode near the voltage regulator ( – note the correct orientation - the diode has the band on the diode facing towards the top of the board.

[[File:Ren4Flood-v1c-Step22.JPG|300px]] 

23. Install the 470uF/16v capacitor – note correct orientation - the capacitor has a stripe on the side denoting the negative leg that goes in the hole near the "-"mark on the board.

[[File:Ren4Flood-v1c-Step23.JPG|300px]] 

24. Install the two RJ45 jacks – note that side-entry jacks can be substituted

[[File:Ren4Flood-v1c-Step24.JPG|300px]] 

25. Install the 4 transistors – note the correct orientation – the flat side of the package faces towards the bottom of the board.

[[File:Ren4Flood-v1c-Step25.JPG|300px]] 

Congratulations! That completes the construction of the Ren4Flood!

==Initial Testing==
The first thing you will want to do in any PCB construction project is to double check that you have all components installed and in the proper orientation. You will then want to inspect the board for any cold/bridged solder joints. Take your time with this step and go over each and every joint.

If you have any of the IC's installed - remove them now. Connect your power supply to the “DC IN” - it supplies power to controller portion of the board as well as the outputs. Turn on the supply and verify the power LED lights up. Verify you have 5v between pins 1 and 14 on the PIC socket as well as between pins 5 and 8 on the 485 chip sockets. Install all of the IC's if this passes. The PIC goes in the 14 pin socket with the notch facing the top of the board. The two 485 chips go in the 8 pin sockets on the left side of the board and the notches face to the left.

==Programming the PIC controllers==
The Ren4Flood does not supply or use a ZeroCross input and therefore the Renard firmware (either Renard or DMX protocol) must be configured for DC/PWM
operation. In addition, if you are using the DMX firmware, you may want to set the initial starting address but generally, this can be left at '1' for all PICs since the code is self-addressing. Also – like the ULN2803 drivers, the transistors invert the output so the firmware uses positive outputs.

===Renard Protocol===
'''4-channel Renard/Serial firmware for the Ren4Flood will be coming soon - for now use standard Ren48LSD/Serial code'''
Obtain the standard Renard firmware [http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/images/d/d3/Renard-20071229.asm here:]

Make the following changes:

#define PWM_build 1 – change from '0'
#define DC_build 1 – change from '0'
#define CTR_LOCKOUT 1 – change from '15'
;#define OUTPUT_NEGATIVE_TRUE – comment this out

Compile the code into hex code and program the PIC. A standard version of the code with the settings above has been compiled already for you in the File Library available [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/dynamics/attachment.php?attachmentid=207&d=1280420686 here].

Note that when using the standard Ren48LSD/Serial code, that you need to account for eight channels even though there are only four used on the Ren4Flood. Channels 1-4 are not used and channels 5-8 are for the four outputs.

There is no trigger code written for the Ren4Flood at this time so the trigger inputs are not functional yet. This functionality will be added at a later time.

===Renard-DMX Protocol===
Obtain the Ren4Flood firmware from [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/dynamics/attachment.php?attachmentid=379&d=1316753757 here:]

If you want to change the DMX starting address then alter it below.

#define DMX_START_ADDRESS 1

Compile the code into hex code and program the PIC with the same code (unless using a starting address). A standard version of the code with the settings above has been compiled already for you in the File Library available [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/dynamics/attachment.php?attachmentid=380&d=1316753757 here].

Whichever firmware you choose, install the flashed PIC into the socket noting the correct orientation. Also install the two 485 chips into their sockets noting the correct orientation. You are now ready for final testing.

There is no trigger code written for the Ren4Flood at this time so the trigger inputs are not functional yet. This functionality will be added at a later time.

==Final Testing==
I chose not to design in the diagnostic LEDs as those used on the RenSS series of controllers. The design is fairly straight-forward and as long as you are sure of the voltage inputs and the PICs are flashed properly you should not have any issues if your soldering is good.

If you are using RS232, you should install the shunt on the "RS232" header which shorts pin 5 of the RJ45-IN connector to ground for proper RS232 operation. The wiring is the same as the RenardSS series so you can follow the cabling requiremnents for that.

As the Renard controller variations do not use bussed DMX it's not critical to install the DMX termination shunt if you are only using Renard controllers. This is because they are using point-to-point configurations. However - if this particular controller is at the end of a line of other normal (bussed) DMX devices, you should install the shunt to properly terminate the bus.

Connect the Ren4Flood to your PC using standard wiring practices as on the Wiki for other Renard controllers. Develop a Vixen sequence to turn on/off each channel one-by-one using the appropriate Renard/DMX plug-in. With the sequence running, measure the output of each terminal block pair and ensure the voltage swings from 0 to DC IN.

==TroubleShooting==
So - you've built your new Ren4Flood, connected it up to your computer and tried a quick sequence and nothing happens! There are several checks to perform in order:

===Visual Inspection===
The very first step involves a close visual inspection of the board. Double check that you have the correct component in the correct location and in the correct orientation. Look at every single solder connection and if some are not shiny or look suspect - reflow them to be sure.
===Power===
Measure across pins 1 and 14 on the PIC socket - it should read 5v

Measure across pins 5 and 8 on both RS-485 sockets - it should read 5v

If you do not measure 5v and you are using the regulator, then ensure you are providing at least 7.5vdc (and up to 24vdc) into the terminal block from your supply. If that's OK, then inspect the soldering all around the regulator and filter capacitors on the board. Ensure the filter capacitor and regulator were installed with the correct orientation.

===PIC Programming===
Reflash your PIC with the .hex file from this Wiki page or the File Library - perform a 'Verify' to be sure it's not blank

===Clocking===
With the PIC installed, measure the voltage from pin 14 (gnd) to pin 2 (OSC) on the PIC - it should not be stuck at 0 or 5v (probably close to 3.5v). If it is then you probably have a soldering issue, the oscillator was installed with the incorrect orientation or the oscillator is bad. There should be 5v between the upper left and lower right pins on the oscillator.

Another possible reason for seeing close to 5v on pin 2 is that the PIC has been programmed properly. This is due to no loading of the output from the oscillator. Before replacing the oscillator, re-verify that the PIC has been programmed.

===Communications===
From Vixen, ensure you have the appropriate plug-in selected and configured. If you are using Renard/Serial code, you should have the "Renard Dimmer (modified)" selected using Protocol Version 1 and the correct COM port selected for your serial port. Ensure the baud rate is 57600 (if using the standard image), 8-bits, no parity, 1 stop bit and that it matches the port settings in the Windows Control Panel (Device Manager) as well. Ensure your cabling is correct from the Wiki documentation for Renard (it is the same as the RenSS series). Ensure the "RS232" jumper is ON and that the "TERM" jumper is OFF.

If you are using Renard/DMX code, you should have either the "Enttec Open DMX" or "Enttec DMX USB Pro" plug-in selected (unless you are using E1.31 which is beyond this document). Ensure your DMX dongle is seen as a COM port (unplug/plug in to be sure while Vixen is not up) and the plug-in is configured to match the port number. The baud rate settings are not used for DMX (it's always 250Kbps). If using the Enttec Open dongle, you need to configure the DMX Add-In as well so that the data is streamed to the device.Ensure your cabling is correct from the Wiki documentation for Renard (it is the same as the RenSS series). Ensure the "RS232" jumper is OFF. The "TERM" jumper will probably make no difference whether it's on or off but you can try both ways to see if it makes any difference.

Note that it's not really within the scope of this document to troubleshoot Vixen/dongle/cabling issues - please go through some of the Wiki documentation and if at all possible, try to confirm on a working piece of equipment before troubleshooting something that isn't broken to begin with. It's assumed at this point that to the best of your knowledge that everything up to the "IN" jack is in working order.

Configure a short Vixen sequence with a slow on/off sequence for each channel - 1 second on, 1 second off. Alternate the odd channels so that they are the opposite polarity of the even channels. In other words, when channel 1 is ON, channel 2 is OFF or when channel 2 is ON, channel 1 is off. Create a 4-channel sequence in this fashion so you can test all channels at once. With the sequence running, measure the outputs of the PIC at pins 10, 9, 8 and 7. You should see each pin alternate from 0v to 5v once a second matching the sequence. If this is not the case, then sequencing data is not being received by the PIC(s).

Measure the voltage at pin 5 on PIC with the same sequence running (from ground). it should be alternating between 0v and 5v and not be stuck at one or the other. If it appears stuck, then inspect the "IN" RS-485 chip (and the entire path from it to pin 5 on the PIC) and ensure there are no bent pins (including the RJ45 jack itself), cold solder joints. Swap the two RS485 chips to see if that resolves the issue.

If the problem is with a daisy-chained controller FROM this Ren4Flood, then inspect the RS-485 "OUT" chip closely for bent pins, solder issues, etc. Check the output RJ45 jack for crossed pins. Swap the RS-485 chips to see if that helps. Note that ALL output from the Ren4Flood is at RS-485 levels so the daisy-chained controller should not have the RS-232 jumper enabled.

===Output Drivers===
It's assumed at this point that you have checked that a sequence can drive the PIC outputs properly between 0 and 5v OK. With the PIC(s) removed and power on, connect a ''known good device'' (flood, RGB strip, etc) to the output socket(s) in question.

Use a piece of hookup wire and connect the wire from pin 1 to the following pins:

:Pin 10 - channel 1
:Pin 9 - channel 2
:Pin 8 - channel 3
:Pin 7 - channel 4

After connecting the wire to the output pins, the device should turn on. If it does not, then it's possible the output driver (transistor) is bad. Check the path from the PIC output pin you are testing through the 470 ohm resistor and to the base of the transistor in question. The nomenclature (name) of the transistor matches the channel number so "Q2" is for channel 2. Replacements may have been included with your kit or you can get them at RadioShack - most MPS2222a, PN2222A or 2N3904 types can be subsituted. If you have multiple transistors bad, then you should investigate how this happened before replacing the transistors since there's a good chance they will simply blow again.

==FAQ==
What are the jumper settings for the board? 
There are three jumper settings on the Ren4Flood pcb.

1) The first jumper is the TERM jumper. You may need to connect the shunt across the two pins if this is the last device in a string of DMX devices.

2) The second jumper is the RS232 jumper. You may need to connect the shunt across the two pins if you are sending data to the board using RS232 signaling.

3) The Third jumper is the THRU jumper. This is a 2x3 header. For "normal" Renard operation, there should be a pair of jumpers across both 1&2 (they go vertically). For "THRU" they should go across 2&3. Basically this jumpers pins 4&5 from the IN connector directly to the OUT connector. If you use the THRU connection using the standard Ren48LSD code, it will not be an issue since ALL data is bypassed across the connector. You will need to set the starting address on each PIC however.

Can you program the pic while it is on the board? 
Yes, by using the ICSP header connected to your PIC2 or PIC3 programmer you can program the PIC while it is on the board. Please make sure to note the orientation of pin 1 of the ICSP header (marked by the arrow at the top).

==Schematic==

Here is the schematic drawing for the Ren4Flood v1c in PDF format [[Media:Ren4Flood-v1c.pdf]]

=PCB=
The PCBs for the Ren4Flood were designed by [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/member.php?1986-budude Brian Ullmark (budude)]. The PCB is 4.75" x 2.1". The PCB is available from [http://www.diyledexpress.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=4&products_id=24 DIYLEDExpress.com] 

[[File:Ren4Flood-v1c-PCB1.jpg|300px]] 

----

[[Category:DIYC Controllers]]
[[Category:Renard]]
[[Category:DIYC Index]]

E1.31 Bridge

2013-03-23T07:54:01Z

Budude: /* Power */

'''This is a work in progress!!!!'''

----

=6 Port E1.31 Bridge Construction Manual=

==''What'' is the 6 Port E1.31 Bridge?==
The 6-port E1.31 bridge is a device that takes in an E1.31 stream from your network and converts (or 'bridges') that to multiple DMX or Renard output streams. E1.31 or sACN (Streaming Architecture for Control Networks) is a method of multiplexing multiple DMX streams over your network using unicast or multicast UDP packets. The 6-port bridge currently only supports multicast streams. This makes it simpler to configure but has drawbacks in very large configurations (10's of streams). E1.31 can support 63,999 DMX streams or 'universes' (64000->65536 are reserved) so it has a virtually unlimited amount of expansion available.

The 6-port bridge can handle up to six E1.31 universes, each of which get directed to a particular port. By default the bridge is configured to send universe '1' to port number 1, universe '2' to port number 2 and so on but you can assign any of the 64k universe numbers to any port if you wish. The bridge takes in the particular universe stream and either outputs it directly out each port for DMX output or it performs a conversion to Renard protocol. The protocol used depends of course on what you plan to use for controllers on the ports that you have configured. You can configure any mix of DMX and Renard protocols to any port.

The bridge has another feature so that each physical output can be re-wired to support either a "standard" DMX RJ-45 electrical output or a Renard electrical output without resorting to making custom cables to support either. The output of the bridge is always RS-485 in either case. Note that regardless if your Renard controller is running standard Renard/Serial code or Renard/DMX code, the jumpers should always be configured for Renard since the physical interface does not change.

==How does the 6 Port E1.31 Bridge work?==

As mentioned above, the bridge takes in a multicast E1.31 UDP stream, determines which stream belongs to which port (if any) and sends that data out the appropriate port. The E1.31 stream enters the bridge via an Ethernet port on the Wiz820io module and is converted to a serial signal that is sent on to the Propeller microcontroller chip. Your sequencer or streaming tool sends multicast packets with an address of 239.255.<UHB>.<ULB> where UHB is the Universe high byte and LHB is the Universe low byte. As an example, the address for universe '1' would be 239.255.0.1. This is why using multicast addressing can be simpler to configure since this address is always the same for any device using that universe. The disadvantage of using multicast is that the packets are sent to every device on the subnet regardless if they are destined for it or not. This means the receiving device must read in the header for each packet or have the means to block these within hardware. Depending on the device and the number of universes of data sent it can swamp the device and possibly end up causing a loss of data. Note however that this is not an issue for most networks until you get into the dozens of universes so it's not an issue for most users.

Unicast is another method of sending E1.31 packets. For this method, the IP address used to manage/configure the device is also used for the data packets. In this case, the packets are sent directly to the device instead of being broadcast across the entire subnet.

The Parallax Propeller microcontroller determines if the address matches one of the configured ports universe numbers and if it does, reads in the entire DMX stream and sends them out that particular port either as-is or after conversion to Renard protocol. The Propeller chip is quite powerful, it is essentially eight separate microcontrollers in a single package. These internal processors or COGs as they are called can each run completely different (or the same) code. This allows you to partition different functions to different COGs within your code. If a COG is not used, it does not use any resources which allows you to run the others faster. For more information on the Propeller, visit the Parallax site.

For the bridge, the COGs are used to support both the multiple input processing as well as the six port output processing.

==Revision History==

==6 Port E1.31 Bridge Parts==
In addition to the [http://www.diyledexpress.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=22&products_id=158 PCB], you will need the following components:

<table border="1"><tr><td>'''Mouser BOM'''</td></tr>
<tr><td>Mouser PN</td><td>Description</td><td>Qty</td></tr>
</table>

[http://www.mouser.com:80/ Click here for Mouser Direct Project BOM]

The BOM is available from [http://www.diyledexpress.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=22&products_id=157 DIYLEDExpress.com] 

==Building the 6 Port E1.31 Bridge==

The 6 Port E1.31 Bridge requires a fair bit of soldering so take your time and ensure you
install the components in the correct orientation when required. Start by sorting
the components by type and values. Look over the PCB before starting noting the
location of the various components. Follow the standard procedure of installing
the lowest profile parts first and ending up with the tallest.

[[File:E1_31Bridge.png]]

# Install the 0.1uF (100nF) capacitors C4-C12.
# Install the 220 Ohm resistors R1-R3.
# Install the 120 Ohm resistors R4-R9.
# Install the 10K Ohm resistors R10-R12
# Install the 5Mhz Crystal X1.
# Install the Toggle Switches S1-S2.
# Install the seven 8 Pin IC sockets and one 40 pin socket.
# Install the green LED LED1.
# Install the red LEDs LED2-LED3.
# Install the 3.3V Regulator VR2 with the heat sink.
# Install the 3 Pin and 4 Pin headers JP1, H1.
# Install the two WizNet 1x6 pin headers.
# Install the twelve 2x3 output pin selectors.
# Install the power terminal block TB1.
# Install the three 47uF Capacitors C1-C3.
# Install the DC-DC Converter VR1.
# Install the six RJ45 jacks J1-J6.
# Install the six RT485BN in IC3-IC8 with the notches facing the edge with the power terminal block.
# Install the EEPROM in IC2 with the notch facing the edge with the power terminal block.
# Install the Propeller in IC1 with the notch facing the WizNet adapter.
# Install the WizNet adapter with the socket facing the Propeller IC.

H2 and IC9 will be unpopulated as these are both for future expansion.

Congratulations! That completes the construction of the 6 Port E1.31 Bridge!

==Jumpers==

There are two types of jumper groups on the E1.31 bridge. The first is to set the input voltage and the others to set the desired DMX or Renard physical output.

====Power Jumper - JP1====
This jumper is used if you are supplying either a well regulated +5v or unregulated +7-24v. If you apply +5vdc to the terminal block, you should put the jumper on the "EXT" setting (indicating you are getting 5v externally). If you apply +7-24vdc, you should put the jumper on the "INT" setting (indicating you are getting 5v internally via the 5v regulator).

You '''MUST''' ensure you have this jumper set correctly if you are using voltages greater than 5v as it may (and probably will) cause permanent damage to some components on the board. The Propeller chip uses 3.3v and would be fine but the RS-485 transceivers are 5v devices and would be probably be damaged.

====Output Configuration Jumpers====
Each port has a set of four separate jumpers. If you want a DMX output, you need to put all four jumpers to the "DMX" side. If you want a Renard output, you need to put all four jumpers to the "REN" side. It is important that all four jumpers are in the same position for that port. Note that the protocol for the port is different than the wired output.

When configured for '''DMX''', the output would be:
 Pin 1 - RS-485 D+
 Pin 2 - RS-485 D-
 Pin 7 - Signal Ground
 Pin 8 - No Connection
 Pins 3, 4, 5, and 6 have no connection.

When configured for '''REN''', the output would be:
 Pin 1 - Signal Ground
 Pin 2 - Signal Ground
 Pin 4 - RS-485 D-
 Pin 5 - RS-495 D+
 Pins 3, 6, 7 and 8 have no connection.

You can use the bridge to drive LOR controllers capable of supporting DMX as well. The simplest method is to configure the protocol for DMX and the REN output. You will be required to swap pins 4 and 5 however as LOR has these signals swapped. You may also want to connect pin 6 from the LOR to pins 1 or 2 if using the REN output.

==Powering the E1.31 Bridge==
As mentioned above, the bridge can be powered with either a well regulated +5vdc supply or an unregulated/regulated +7-24vdc supply. The power supply should supply at least XXX mA (dlovely to supply). Configure the power jumper appropriately before applying power.

==Initial Testing==

==Programming the EEPROM==
Current version of the firmware is v2.03 and you can download it [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=16732&d=1354385180 here].

The Programming port on the Bridge is the 4 pin header near the WizNet adapter. Match up the silk screen labels with those on the Prop Plug. You will need to externally power the bridge when programming it. 

===Programming Tools Required===
'''The reccomended way is to use the PropPlug.''' 
====PropPlug====
[[File:PropPlug.jpg]] 
You can get it from [http://www.diyledexpress.com DIYLEDExpress] during Pre-Sales or find it at [http://www.parallax.com/Store/Microcontrollers/PropellerTools/tabid/143/CategoryID/19/List/0/SortField/0/Level/a/ProductID/398/Default.aspx Parallax] or [http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Parallax/32201/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMt7FrWooXVB14dwtuxqLs8Y Mouser] anytime.
====Build your own====
[[File:SerialToPropeller.jpg]]

===Programming Howto===

* Download the [http://www.parallax.com/Portals/0/Downloads/sw/propeller/Setup-Propeller-Tool-v1.3.2.zip Parallax Propeller Tool] and install it.
* Run the Propeller Tool application and it will ask of you want to associate .eeprom files with the application, Say Yes.
* You can close the Propeller Tool application and double click on the .eeprom file you downloaded or from within the application go to File->Open and change the 'Files of type' to 'Propeller Applications' and open the Bridge_v2.02.eeprom file.
* A 'Object Info' screen will open, if not already enabled click 'Show Hex'
* Program the EEPROM on the Bridge by selecting 'Load EEPROM' and you are done.

==Configuring and installing the E1.31 Driver==
http://doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=E1.31_Vixen_Plugin

==Configuration Commands==

===Save===
'''SAve''' n where n is a memory page number from 0 to 7. Writes the currently displayed configuration to the specified memory page

===Load===
'''LOad''' n where n is a memory page number, 0-7. Loads the specified memory page and displays the information on the web page.

===Boot===
'''BOot''' 999 will restart the system. Make sure you do a SAVE first if you have made any changes or your changes will be lost!

===IP===
'''IP''' a.b.c.d where a.b.c.d is any valid IPv4 address.

This should be set within the same subnet as your sequencer PC Ethernet port unless you have routing enabled (not recommended). It is recommended that you have your show network on a separate subnet from your regular home network. This ensures you will not have issues with either interfering with the other. Note that this address is only used to configure/monitor the bridge - it is not used for the sequencer data itself.

===Subnet===
'''SUbnet''' a.b.c.d or '''SUbnet''' n where a.b.c.d is any valid subnet mask value, or n is the size of the subnet in bits.

This should also match the subnet mask of your PC Ethernet port since it is normally on the same subnet. This is typically 255.255.255.0 or 24 bits.

===Gateway===
'''GAteway''' a.b.c.d where a.b.c.d is any valid internet address. Usually the address of your router.

===DNS===
'''DNs''' a.b.c.d where a.b.c.d is any valid internet address. Usually the address of your router.
 
If you are only using DHCP (not recommended), you can leave the static IP areas unused.
Network addressing (static or DHCP IP) is only needed to access the configuration
page with a web browser. Once configured, no IP address is needed for normal operation.
The Default IP Mode, Web Server Mode, No Data Timeout, and Test Pattern commands affect
what happens when the system starts up.

===Default===
'''DEfault''' n where n is 0 or 1.

DE 0 sets the addressing mode to a static or fixed IPv4 network address that is configured with the commands above. DE 1 sets the addressing mode to DHCP - you must have a working DHCP server on your network for the bridge to get an address. It is highly recommended to use a static IP address for the bridge so that you always know where to find it on the network.

===Universe===
'''UNiverse''' b n Where b is the RJ45 output jack number, from 1 to 6 and n is universe from 1 to 63999.

===Protocol===
The Protocol command is used to set the protocol for each of the six output RJ45 jacks. The current valid protocols are DMX and RENARD. 
'''PRotocol''' b n Where b is the RJ45 output jack number, from 1 to 6 and n is 1 for DMX protocol and 2 is for Renard protocol.

===Baud===
The Baud command is used to set the baud rate for each of the four output RJ45 jacks.
NOTE: This command is only used for the Renard protocol. Baud rate will not be displayed when
the DMX protocol is selected. 
'''BAud''' b n Where b is the RJ45 output jack number, from 1 to 6
and n is 1 for a baud rate of 57,600 or 2 is for a baud rate of 115,200.
The Renard protocol refresh rate at 57,600bps for 512 channels is approximately 90ms and at
115,200bps the refresh rate for 512 channels is approximately 45ms.
The DMX protocol refresh rate is preset to 25ms.

==TroubleShooting==
So - you've built your new 6 Port E1.31 Bridge, connected it up to your computer and tried a quick sequence and nothing happens! There are several checks to perform in order:

===Visual Inspection===
The very first step involves a close visual inspection of the board. Double check that you have the correct component in the correct location and in the correct orientation. Look at every single solder connection and if some are not shiny or look suspect - reflow them to be sure.
===Power===
Measure the voltage supplied to the bridge and ensure it's either +5vdc or +7-24vdc and ensure the power jumper is set correctly. Measure the voltage with the supply plugged in and connected to the bridge to ensure it's not shorting out. If the voltage is correct then you know the input level is correct.

Remove any/all socketed chips from the board before proceeding.

If you are using the +5vdc option (EXT), you need to make some measurements of the 3.3v regulator or VR2.

Measure the input voltage between pins 1 and 2 - it should measure 5v (same as the input) - if it isn't then reflow the terminal block, 3.3v regulator and power jumper and check again.

Measure the output voltage between pins 3 and 2 - it should measure 3.3v - if it is much above 3.3v, it's likely the regulator is bad. If it is close to 0v, you may have a short somewhere on the board. Inspect the traces coming from pin 3 over the board and look for solder bridges. If you cannot find a short, then you may have to replace the 3.3v regulator.

If you are using the +7-24vdc option (INT), you need to make some measurements of the 5.0v regulator or VR1.

Measure the input voltage between pins 1 and 2 - it should measure 7-24v (same as the input) - if it isn't then reflow the terminal block, 5.0v regulator and power jumper and check again.

Measure the output voltage between pins 3 and 2 - it should measure 5.0v - if it is much above 5.0v, it's likely the regulator is bad. If it is close to 0v, you may have a short somewhere on the board. Inspect the traces coming from pin 3 over the board and look for solder bridges. If you cannot find a short, then you may have to replace the 5.0v regulator. Another option is a bad 3.3v regulator. If possible, try a +5v supply with the EXT setting and determine if the 3.3v supply is OK using the measurements above. If it is, then you know the 3.3v regulator is OK. If this is not possible, remove the 3.3v regulator and measure the 5.0v regulator output again. If it is 5.0v as it should be, then the 3.3v regulator was bad and needs to be replaced.

===EEPROM Programming===

===Communications===
====Output Configuration====
====Network Configuration====

==FAQ==

----
--[[User:Dlovely|Dlovely]] ([[User talk:Dlovely|talk]]) 11:47, 29 November 2012 (EST)

E1.31 Bridge

2013-03-23T07:19:26Z

Budude: /* What is the 6 Port E1.31 Bridge? */

'''This is a work in progress!!!!'''

----

=6 Port E1.31 Bridge Construction Manual=

==''What'' is the 6 Port E1.31 Bridge?==
The 6-port E1.31 bridge is a device that takes in an E1.31 stream from your network and converts (or 'bridges') that to multiple DMX or Renard output streams. E1.31 or sACN (Streaming Architecture for Control Networks) is a method of multiplexing multiple DMX streams over your network using unicast or multicast UDP packets. The 6-port bridge currently only supports multicast streams. This makes it simpler to configure but has drawbacks in very large configurations (10's of streams). E1.31 can support 63,999 DMX streams or 'universes' (64000->65536 are reserved) so it has a virtually unlimited amount of expansion available.

The 6-port bridge can handle up to six E1.31 universes, each of which get directed to a particular port. By default the bridge is configured to send universe '1' to port number 1, universe '2' to port number 2 and so on but you can assign any of the 64k universe numbers to any port if you wish. The bridge takes in the particular universe stream and either outputs it directly out each port for DMX output or it performs a conversion to Renard protocol. The protocol used depends of course on what you plan to use for controllers on the ports that you have configured. You can configure any mix of DMX and Renard protocols to any port.

The bridge has another feature so that each physical output can be re-wired to support either a "standard" DMX RJ-45 electrical output or a Renard electrical output without resorting to making custom cables to support either. The output of the bridge is always RS-485 in either case. Note that regardless if your Renard controller is running standard Renard/Serial code or Renard/DMX code, the jumpers should always be configured for Renard since the physical interface does not change.

==How does the 6 Port E1.31 Bridge work?==

As mentioned above, the bridge takes in a multicast E1.31 UDP stream, determines which stream belongs to which port (if any) and sends that data out the appropriate port. The E1.31 stream enters the bridge via an Ethernet port on the Wiz820io module and is converted to a serial signal that is sent on to the Propeller microcontroller chip. Your sequencer or streaming tool sends multicast packets with an address of 239.255.<UHB>.<ULB> where UHB is the Universe high byte and LHB is the Universe low byte. As an example, the address for universe '1' would be 239.255.0.1. This is why using multicast addressing can be simpler to configure since this address is always the same for any device using that universe. The disadvantage of using multicast is that the packets are sent to every device on the subnet regardless if they are destined for it or not. This means the receiving device must read in the header for each packet or have the means to block these within hardware. Depending on the device and the number of universes of data sent it can swamp the device and possibly end up causing a loss of data. Note however that this is not an issue for most networks until you get into the dozens of universes so it's not an issue for most users.

Unicast is another method of sending E1.31 packets. For this method, the IP address used to manage/configure the device is also used for the data packets. In this case, the packets are sent directly to the device instead of being broadcast across the entire subnet.

The Parallax Propeller microcontroller determines if the address matches one of the configured ports universe numbers and if it does, reads in the entire DMX stream and sends them out that particular port either as-is or after conversion to Renard protocol. The Propeller chip is quite powerful, it is essentially eight separate microcontrollers in a single package. These internal processors or COGs as they are called can each run completely different (or the same) code. This allows you to partition different functions to different COGs within your code. If a COG is not used, it does not use any resources which allows you to run the others faster. For more information on the Propeller, visit the Parallax site.

For the bridge, the COGs are used to support both the multiple input processing as well as the six port output processing.

==Revision History==

==6 Port E1.31 Bridge Parts==
In addition to the [http://www.diyledexpress.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=22&products_id=158 PCB], you will need the following components:

<table border="1"><tr><td>'''Mouser BOM'''</td></tr>
<tr><td>Mouser PN</td><td>Description</td><td>Qty</td></tr>
</table>

[http://www.mouser.com:80/ Click here for Mouser Direct Project BOM]

The BOM is available from [http://www.diyledexpress.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=22&products_id=157 DIYLEDExpress.com] 

==Building the 6 Port E1.31 Bridge==

The 6 Port E1.31 Bridge requires a fair bit of soldering so take your time and ensure you
install the components in the correct orientation when required. Start by sorting
the components by type and values. Look over the PCB before starting noting the
location of the various components. Follow the standard procedure of installing
the lowest profile parts first and ending up with the tallest.

[[File:E1_31Bridge.png]]

# Install the 0.1uF (100nF) capacitors C4-C12.
# Install the 220 Ohm resistors R1-R3.
# Install the 120 Ohm resistors R4-R9.
# Install the 10K Ohm resistors R10-R12
# Install the 5Mhz Crystal X1.
# Install the Toggle Switches S1-S2.
# Install the seven 8 Pin IC sockets and one 40 pin socket.
# Install the green LED LED1.
# Install the red LEDs LED2-LED3.
# Install the 3.3V Regulator VR2 with the heat sink.
# Install the 3 Pin and 4 Pin headers JP1, H1.
# Install the two WizNet 1x6 pin headers.
# Install the twelve 2x3 output pin selectors.
# Install the power terminal block TB1.
# Install the three 47uF Capacitors C1-C3.
# Install the DC-DC Converter VR1.
# Install the six RJ45 jacks J1-J6.
# Install the six RT485BN in IC3-IC8 with the notches facing the edge with the power terminal block.
# Install the EEPROM in IC2 with the notch facing the edge with the power terminal block.
# Install the Propeller in IC1 with the notch facing the WizNet adapter.
# Install the WizNet adapter with the socket facing the Propeller IC.

H2 and IC9 will be unpopulated as these are both for future expansion.

Congratulations! That completes the construction of the 6 Port E1.31 Bridge!

==Jumpers==

There are two types of jumper groups on the E1.31 bridge. The first is to set the input voltage and the others to set the desired DMX or Renard physical output.

====Power Jumper - JP1====
This jumper is used if you are supplying either a well regulated +5v or unregulated +7-24v. If you apply +5vdc to the terminal block, you should put the jumper on the "EXT" setting (indicating you are getting 5v externally). If you apply +7-24vdc, you should put the jumper on the "INT" setting (indicating you are getting 5v internally via the 5v regulator).

You '''MUST''' ensure you have this jumper set correctly if you are using voltages greater than 5v as it may (and probably will) cause permanent damage to some components on the board. The Propeller chip uses 3.3v and would be fine but the RS-485 transceivers are 5v devices and would be probably be damaged.

====Output Configuration Jumpers====
Each port has a set of four separate jumpers. If you want a DMX output, you need to put all four jumpers to the "DMX" side. If you want a Renard output, you need to put all four jumpers to the "REN" side. It is important that all four jumpers are in the same position for that port. Note that the protocol for the port is different than the wired output.

When configured for '''DMX''', the output would be:
 Pin 1 - RS-485 D+
 Pin 2 - RS-485 D-
 Pin 7 - Signal Ground
 Pin 8 - No Connection
 Pins 3, 4, 5, and 6 have no connection.

When configured for '''REN''', the output would be:
 Pin 1 - Signal Ground
 Pin 2 - Signal Ground
 Pin 4 - RS-485 D-
 Pin 5 - RS-495 D+
 Pins 3, 6, 7 and 8 have no connection.

You can use the bridge to drive LOR controllers capable of supporting DMX as well. The simplest method is to configure the protocol for DMX and the REN output. You will be required to swap pins 4 and 5 however as LOR has these signals swapped. You may also want to connect pin 6 from the LOR to pins 1 or 2 if using the REN output.

==Powering the E1.31 Bridge==
As mentioned above, the bridge can be powered with either a well regulated +5vdc supply or an unregulated/regulated +7-24vdc supply. The power supply should supply at least XXX mA (dlovely to supply). Configure the power jumper appropriately before applying power.

==Initial Testing==

==Programming the EEPROM==
Current version of the firmware is v2.03 and you can download it [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=16732&d=1354385180 here].

The Programming port on the Bridge is the 4 pin header near the WizNet adapter. Match up the silk screen labels with those on the Prop Plug. You will need to externally power the bridge when programming it. 

===Programming Tools Required===
'''The reccomended way is to use the PropPlug.''' 
====PropPlug====
[[File:PropPlug.jpg]] 
You can get it from [http://www.diyledexpress.com DIYLEDExpress] during Pre-Sales or find it at [http://www.parallax.com/Store/Microcontrollers/PropellerTools/tabid/143/CategoryID/19/List/0/SortField/0/Level/a/ProductID/398/Default.aspx Parallax] or [http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Parallax/32201/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMt7FrWooXVB14dwtuxqLs8Y Mouser] anytime.
====Build your own====
[[File:SerialToPropeller.jpg]]

===Programming Howto===

* Download the [http://www.parallax.com/Portals/0/Downloads/sw/propeller/Setup-Propeller-Tool-v1.3.2.zip Parallax Propeller Tool] and install it.
* Run the Propeller Tool application and it will ask of you want to associate .eeprom files with the application, Say Yes.
* You can close the Propeller Tool application and double click on the .eeprom file you downloaded or from within the application go to File->Open and change the 'Files of type' to 'Propeller Applications' and open the Bridge_v2.02.eeprom file.
* A 'Object Info' screen will open, if not already enabled click 'Show Hex'
* Program the EEPROM on the Bridge by selecting 'Load EEPROM' and you are done.

==Configuring and installing the E1.31 Driver==
http://doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=E1.31_Vixen_Plugin

==Configuration Commands==

===Save===
'''SAve''' n where n is a memory page number from 0 to 7. Writes the currently displayed configuration to the specified memory page

===Load===
'''LOad''' n where n is a memory page number, 0-7. Loads the specified memory page and displays the information on the web page.

===Boot===
'''BOot''' 999 will restart the system. Make sure you do a SAVE first if you have made any changes or your changes will be lost!

===IP===
'''IP''' a.b.c.d where a.b.c.d is any valid IPv4 address.

This should be set within the same subnet as your sequencer PC Ethernet port unless you have routing enabled (not recommended). It is recommended that you have your show network on a separate subnet from your regular home network. This ensures you will not have issues with either interfering with the other. Note that this address is only used to configure/monitor the bridge - it is not used for the sequencer data itself.

===Subnet===
'''SUbnet''' a.b.c.d or '''SUbnet''' n where a.b.c.d is any valid subnet mask value, or n is the size of the subnet in bits.

This should also match the subnet mask of your PC Ethernet port since it is normally on the same subnet. This is typically 255.255.255.0 or 24 bits.

===Gateway===
'''GAteway''' a.b.c.d where a.b.c.d is any valid internet address. Usually the address of your router.

===DNS===
'''DNs''' a.b.c.d where a.b.c.d is any valid internet address. Usually the address of your router.
 
If you are only using DHCP (not recommended), you can leave the static IP areas unused.
Network addressing (static or DHCP IP) is only needed to access the configuration
page with a web browser. Once configured, no IP address is needed for normal operation.
The Default IP Mode, Web Server Mode, No Data Timeout, and Test Pattern commands affect
what happens when the system starts up.

===Default===
'''DEfault''' n where n is 0 or 1.

DE 0 sets the addressing mode to a static or fixed IPv4 network address that is configured with the commands above. DE 1 sets the addressing mode to DHCP - you must have a working DHCP server on your network for the bridge to get an address. It is highly recommended to use a static IP address for the bridge so that you always know where to find it on the network.

===Universe===
'''UNiverse''' b n Where b is the RJ45 output jack number, from 1 to 6 and n is universe from 1 to 63999.

===Protocol===
The Protocol command is used to set the protocol for each of the six output RJ45 jacks. The current valid protocols are DMX and RENARD. 
'''PRotocol''' b n Where b is the RJ45 output jack number, from 1 to 6 and n is 1 for DMX protocol and 2 is for Renard protocol.

===Baud===
The Baud command is used to set the baud rate for each of the four output RJ45 jacks.
NOTE: This command is only used for the Renard protocol. Baud rate will not be displayed when
the DMX protocol is selected. 
'''BAud''' b n Where b is the RJ45 output jack number, from 1 to 6
and n is 1 for a baud rate of 57,600 or 2 is for a baud rate of 115,200.
The Renard protocol refresh rate at 57,600bps for 512 channels is approximately 90ms and at
115,200bps the refresh rate for 512 channels is approximately 45ms.
The DMX protocol refresh rate is preset to 25ms.

==TroubleShooting==
So - you've built your new 6 Port E1.31 Bridge, connected it up to your computer and tried a quick sequence and nothing happens! There are several checks to perform in order:

===Visual Inspection===
The very first step involves a close visual inspection of the board. Double check that you have the correct component in the correct location and in the correct orientation. Look at every single solder connection and if some are not shiny or look suspect - reflow them to be sure.
===Power===

===EEPROM Programming===

===Communications===
====Output Configuration====
====Network Configuration====

==FAQ==

----
--[[User:Dlovely|Dlovely]] ([[User talk:Dlovely|talk]]) 11:47, 29 November 2012 (EST)

E1.31 Bridge

2013-03-23T07:17:30Z

Budude: /* What is the 6 Port E1.31 Bridge? */

'''This is a work in progress!!!!'''

----

=6 Port E1.31 Bridge Construction Manual=

==''What'' is the 6 Port E1.31 Bridge?==
The 6-port E1.31 bridge is a device that takes in an E1.31 stream from your network and converts (or 'bridges') that to multiple DMX or Renard output streams. E1.31 or sACN (Streaming Architecture for Control Networks) is a method of multiplexing multiple DMX streams over your network using unicast or multicast UDP packets. The 6-port bridge currently only supports multicast streams. This makes it simpler to configure but has drawbacks in very large configurations (10's of streams). E1.31 can support 63,999 DMX streams or 'universes' (64000->65536 are reserved) so it has a virtually unlimited amount of expansion available.

The 6-port bridge can handle up to six E1.31 universes, each of which get directed to a particular port. By default the bridge is configured to send universe '1' to port number 1, universe '2' to port number 2 and so on but you can assign any of the 64k universe numbers to any port if you wish. The bridge takes in the particular universe stream and either outputs it directly out each port for DMX output or it performs a conversion to Renard protocol. The protocol used depends of course on what you plan to use for controllers on the ports that you have configured. You can configure any mix of DMX and Renard protocols to any port.

The bridge has another feature so that each physical output can be re-wired to support with a "standard" DMX RJ-45 output or a Renard output without resorting to making custom cables to support either. The output of the bridge is always RS-485 in either case. Note that regardless if your Renard controller is running standard Renard/Serial code or Renard/DMX code, the jumpers should always be configured for Renard since the physical interface does not change.

==How does the 6 Port E1.31 Bridge work?==

As mentioned above, the bridge takes in a multicast E1.31 UDP stream, determines which stream belongs to which port (if any) and sends that data out the appropriate port. The E1.31 stream enters the bridge via an Ethernet port on the Wiz820io module and is converted to a serial signal that is sent on to the Propeller microcontroller chip. Your sequencer or streaming tool sends multicast packets with an address of 239.255.<UHB>.<ULB> where UHB is the Universe high byte and LHB is the Universe low byte. As an example, the address for universe '1' would be 239.255.0.1. This is why using multicast addressing can be simpler to configure since this address is always the same for any device using that universe. The disadvantage of using multicast is that the packets are sent to every device on the subnet regardless if they are destined for it or not. This means the receiving device must read in the header for each packet or have the means to block these within hardware. Depending on the device and the number of universes of data sent it can swamp the device and possibly end up causing a loss of data. Note however that this is not an issue for most networks until you get into the dozens of universes so it's not an issue for most users.

Unicast is another method of sending E1.31 packets. For this method, the IP address used to manage/configure the device is also used for the data packets. In this case, the packets are sent directly to the device instead of being broadcast across the entire subnet.

The Parallax Propeller microcontroller determines if the address matches one of the configured ports universe numbers and if it does, reads in the entire DMX stream and sends them out that particular port either as-is or after conversion to Renard protocol. The Propeller chip is quite powerful, it is essentially eight separate microcontrollers in a single package. These internal processors or COGs as they are called can each run completely different (or the same) code. This allows you to partition different functions to different COGs within your code. If a COG is not used, it does not use any resources which allows you to run the others faster. For more information on the Propeller, visit the Parallax site.

For the bridge, the COGs are used to support both the multiple input processing as well as the six port output processing.

==Revision History==

==6 Port E1.31 Bridge Parts==
In addition to the [http://www.diyledexpress.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=22&products_id=158 PCB], you will need the following components:

<table border="1"><tr><td>'''Mouser BOM'''</td></tr>
<tr><td>Mouser PN</td><td>Description</td><td>Qty</td></tr>
</table>

[http://www.mouser.com:80/ Click here for Mouser Direct Project BOM]

The BOM is available from [http://www.diyledexpress.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=22&products_id=157 DIYLEDExpress.com] 

==Building the 6 Port E1.31 Bridge==

The 6 Port E1.31 Bridge requires a fair bit of soldering so take your time and ensure you
install the components in the correct orientation when required. Start by sorting
the components by type and values. Look over the PCB before starting noting the
location of the various components. Follow the standard procedure of installing
the lowest profile parts first and ending up with the tallest.

[[File:E1_31Bridge.png]]

# Install the 0.1uF (100nF) capacitors C4-C12.
# Install the 220 Ohm resistors R1-R3.
# Install the 120 Ohm resistors R4-R9.
# Install the 10K Ohm resistors R10-R12
# Install the 5Mhz Crystal X1.
# Install the Toggle Switches S1-S2.
# Install the seven 8 Pin IC sockets and one 40 pin socket.
# Install the green LED LED1.
# Install the red LEDs LED2-LED3.
# Install the 3.3V Regulator VR2 with the heat sink.
# Install the 3 Pin and 4 Pin headers JP1, H1.
# Install the two WizNet 1x6 pin headers.
# Install the twelve 2x3 output pin selectors.
# Install the power terminal block TB1.
# Install the three 47uF Capacitors C1-C3.
# Install the DC-DC Converter VR1.
# Install the six RJ45 jacks J1-J6.
# Install the six RT485BN in IC3-IC8 with the notches facing the edge with the power terminal block.
# Install the EEPROM in IC2 with the notch facing the edge with the power terminal block.
# Install the Propeller in IC1 with the notch facing the WizNet adapter.
# Install the WizNet adapter with the socket facing the Propeller IC.

H2 and IC9 will be unpopulated as these are both for future expansion.

Congratulations! That completes the construction of the 6 Port E1.31 Bridge!

==Jumpers==

There are two types of jumper groups on the E1.31 bridge. The first is to set the input voltage and the others to set the desired DMX or Renard physical output.

====Power Jumper - JP1====
This jumper is used if you are supplying either a well regulated +5v or unregulated +7-24v. If you apply +5vdc to the terminal block, you should put the jumper on the "EXT" setting (indicating you are getting 5v externally). If you apply +7-24vdc, you should put the jumper on the "INT" setting (indicating you are getting 5v internally via the 5v regulator).

You '''MUST''' ensure you have this jumper set correctly if you are using voltages greater than 5v as it may (and probably will) cause permanent damage to some components on the board. The Propeller chip uses 3.3v and would be fine but the RS-485 transceivers are 5v devices and would be probably be damaged.

====Output Configuration Jumpers====
Each port has a set of four separate jumpers. If you want a DMX output, you need to put all four jumpers to the "DMX" side. If you want a Renard output, you need to put all four jumpers to the "REN" side. It is important that all four jumpers are in the same position for that port. Note that the protocol for the port is different than the wired output.

When configured for '''DMX''', the output would be:
 Pin 1 - RS-485 D+
 Pin 2 - RS-485 D-
 Pin 7 - Signal Ground
 Pin 8 - No Connection
 Pins 3, 4, 5, and 6 have no connection.

When configured for '''REN''', the output would be:
 Pin 1 - Signal Ground
 Pin 2 - Signal Ground
 Pin 4 - RS-485 D-
 Pin 5 - RS-495 D+
 Pins 3, 6, 7 and 8 have no connection.

You can use the bridge to drive LOR controllers capable of supporting DMX as well. The simplest method is to configure the protocol for DMX and the REN output. You will be required to swap pins 4 and 5 however as LOR has these signals swapped. You may also want to connect pin 6 from the LOR to pins 1 or 2 if using the REN output.

==Powering the E1.31 Bridge==
As mentioned above, the bridge can be powered with either a well regulated +5vdc supply or an unregulated/regulated +7-24vdc supply. The power supply should supply at least XXX mA (dlovely to supply). Configure the power jumper appropriately before applying power.

==Initial Testing==

==Programming the EEPROM==
Current version of the firmware is v2.03 and you can download it [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=16732&d=1354385180 here].

The Programming port on the Bridge is the 4 pin header near the WizNet adapter. Match up the silk screen labels with those on the Prop Plug. You will need to externally power the bridge when programming it. 

===Programming Tools Required===
'''The reccomended way is to use the PropPlug.''' 
====PropPlug====
[[File:PropPlug.jpg]] 
You can get it from [http://www.diyledexpress.com DIYLEDExpress] during Pre-Sales or find it at [http://www.parallax.com/Store/Microcontrollers/PropellerTools/tabid/143/CategoryID/19/List/0/SortField/0/Level/a/ProductID/398/Default.aspx Parallax] or [http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Parallax/32201/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMt7FrWooXVB14dwtuxqLs8Y Mouser] anytime.
====Build your own====
[[File:SerialToPropeller.jpg]]

===Programming Howto===

* Download the [http://www.parallax.com/Portals/0/Downloads/sw/propeller/Setup-Propeller-Tool-v1.3.2.zip Parallax Propeller Tool] and install it.
* Run the Propeller Tool application and it will ask of you want to associate .eeprom files with the application, Say Yes.
* You can close the Propeller Tool application and double click on the .eeprom file you downloaded or from within the application go to File->Open and change the 'Files of type' to 'Propeller Applications' and open the Bridge_v2.02.eeprom file.
* A 'Object Info' screen will open, if not already enabled click 'Show Hex'
* Program the EEPROM on the Bridge by selecting 'Load EEPROM' and you are done.

==Configuring and installing the E1.31 Driver==
http://doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=E1.31_Vixen_Plugin

==Configuration Commands==

===Save===
'''SAve''' n where n is a memory page number from 0 to 7. Writes the currently displayed configuration to the specified memory page

===Load===
'''LOad''' n where n is a memory page number, 0-7. Loads the specified memory page and displays the information on the web page.

===Boot===
'''BOot''' 999 will restart the system. Make sure you do a SAVE first if you have made any changes or your changes will be lost!

===IP===
'''IP''' a.b.c.d where a.b.c.d is any valid IPv4 address.

This should be set within the same subnet as your sequencer PC Ethernet port unless you have routing enabled (not recommended). It is recommended that you have your show network on a separate subnet from your regular home network. This ensures you will not have issues with either interfering with the other. Note that this address is only used to configure/monitor the bridge - it is not used for the sequencer data itself.

===Subnet===
'''SUbnet''' a.b.c.d or '''SUbnet''' n where a.b.c.d is any valid subnet mask value, or n is the size of the subnet in bits.

This should also match the subnet mask of your PC Ethernet port since it is normally on the same subnet. This is typically 255.255.255.0 or 24 bits.

===Gateway===
'''GAteway''' a.b.c.d where a.b.c.d is any valid internet address. Usually the address of your router.

===DNS===
'''DNs''' a.b.c.d where a.b.c.d is any valid internet address. Usually the address of your router.
 
If you are only using DHCP (not recommended), you can leave the static IP areas unused.
Network addressing (static or DHCP IP) is only needed to access the configuration
page with a web browser. Once configured, no IP address is needed for normal operation.
The Default IP Mode, Web Server Mode, No Data Timeout, and Test Pattern commands affect
what happens when the system starts up.

===Default===
'''DEfault''' n where n is 0 or 1.

DE 0 sets the addressing mode to a static or fixed IPv4 network address that is configured with the commands above. DE 1 sets the addressing mode to DHCP - you must have a working DHCP server on your network for the bridge to get an address. It is highly recommended to use a static IP address for the bridge so that you always know where to find it on the network.

===Universe===
'''UNiverse''' b n Where b is the RJ45 output jack number, from 1 to 6 and n is universe from 1 to 63999.

===Protocol===
The Protocol command is used to set the protocol for each of the six output RJ45 jacks. The current valid protocols are DMX and RENARD. 
'''PRotocol''' b n Where b is the RJ45 output jack number, from 1 to 6 and n is 1 for DMX protocol and 2 is for Renard protocol.

===Baud===
The Baud command is used to set the baud rate for each of the four output RJ45 jacks.
NOTE: This command is only used for the Renard protocol. Baud rate will not be displayed when
the DMX protocol is selected. 
'''BAud''' b n Where b is the RJ45 output jack number, from 1 to 6
and n is 1 for a baud rate of 57,600 or 2 is for a baud rate of 115,200.
The Renard protocol refresh rate at 57,600bps for 512 channels is approximately 90ms and at
115,200bps the refresh rate for 512 channels is approximately 45ms.
The DMX protocol refresh rate is preset to 25ms.

==TroubleShooting==
So - you've built your new 6 Port E1.31 Bridge, connected it up to your computer and tried a quick sequence and nothing happens! There are several checks to perform in order:

===Visual Inspection===
The very first step involves a close visual inspection of the board. Double check that you have the correct component in the correct location and in the correct orientation. Look at every single solder connection and if some are not shiny or look suspect - reflow them to be sure.
===Power===

===EEPROM Programming===

===Communications===
====Output Configuration====
====Network Configuration====

==FAQ==

----
--[[User:Dlovely|Dlovely]] ([[User talk:Dlovely|talk]]) 11:47, 29 November 2012 (EST)

E1.31 Bridge

2013-03-23T07:13:41Z

Budude: /* What is the 6 Port E1.31 Bridge? */

'''This is a work in progress!!!!'''

----

=6 Port E1.31 Bridge Construction Manual=

==''What'' is the 6 Port E1.31 Bridge?==
The 6-port E1.31 bridge is a device that takes in an E1.31 stream from your network and converts (or 'bridges') that to multiple DMX or Renard output streams. E1.31 or sACN (Streaming Architecture for Control Networks) is method of multiplexing multiple DMX streams over your network using unicast or multicast UDP packets. The 6-port bridge currently only supports multicast streams. This makes it simpler to configure but has drawbacks in very large configurations (10's of streams). E1.31 can support 63,999 DMX streams or 'universes' (64000->65536 are reserved) so it has a virtually unlimited amount of expansion available.

The 6-port bridge can handle up to six E1.31 universes, each of which get directed to a particular port. By default the bridge is configured to send universe '1' to port number 1, universe '2' to port number 2 and so on but you can assign any of the 64k universe numbers to any port if you wish. The bridge takes in the particular universe stream and either outputs it directly out each port for DMX output or it performs a conversion to Renard protocol. The protocol used depends of course on what you plan to use for controllers on the ports that you have configured. You can configure any mix of DMX and Renard protocols to any port.

The bridge has another feature so that each physical output can be re-wired to support with a "standard" DMX RJ-45 output or a Renard output without resorting to making custom cables to support either. The output of the bridge is always RS-485 in either case. Note that regardless if your Renard controller is running standard Renard/Serial code or Renard/DMX code, the jumpers should always be configured for Renard since the physical interface does not change.

==How does the 6 Port E1.31 Bridge work?==

As mentioned above, the bridge takes in a multicast E1.31 UDP stream, determines which stream belongs to which port (if any) and sends that data out the appropriate port. The E1.31 stream enters the bridge via an Ethernet port on the Wiz820io module and is converted to a serial signal that is sent on to the Propeller microcontroller chip. Your sequencer or streaming tool sends multicast packets with an address of 239.255.<UHB>.<ULB> where UHB is the Universe high byte and LHB is the Universe low byte. As an example, the address for universe '1' would be 239.255.0.1. This is why using multicast addressing can be simpler to configure since this address is always the same for any device using that universe. The disadvantage of using multicast is that the packets are sent to every device on the subnet regardless if they are destined for it or not. This means the receiving device must read in the header for each packet or have the means to block these within hardware. Depending on the device and the number of universes of data sent it can swamp the device and possibly end up causing a loss of data. Note however that this is not an issue for most networks until you get into the dozens of universes so it's not an issue for most users.

Unicast is another method of sending E1.31 packets. For this method, the IP address used to manage/configure the device is also used for the data packets. In this case, the packets are sent directly to the device instead of being broadcast across the entire subnet.

The Parallax Propeller microcontroller determines if the address matches one of the configured ports universe numbers and if it does, reads in the entire DMX stream and sends them out that particular port either as-is or after conversion to Renard protocol. The Propeller chip is quite powerful, it is essentially eight separate microcontrollers in a single package. These internal processors or COGs as they are called can each run completely different (or the same) code. This allows you to partition different functions to different COGs within your code. If a COG is not used, it does not use any resources which allows you to run the others faster. For more information on the Propeller, visit the Parallax site.

For the bridge, the COGs are used to support both the multiple input processing as well as the six port output processing.

==Revision History==

==6 Port E1.31 Bridge Parts==
In addition to the [http://www.diyledexpress.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=22&products_id=158 PCB], you will need the following components:

<table border="1"><tr><td>'''Mouser BOM'''</td></tr>
<tr><td>Mouser PN</td><td>Description</td><td>Qty</td></tr>
</table>

[http://www.mouser.com:80/ Click here for Mouser Direct Project BOM]

The BOM is available from [http://www.diyledexpress.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=22&products_id=157 DIYLEDExpress.com] 

==Building the 6 Port E1.31 Bridge==

The 6 Port E1.31 Bridge requires a fair bit of soldering so take your time and ensure you
install the components in the correct orientation when required. Start by sorting
the components by type and values. Look over the PCB before starting noting the
location of the various components. Follow the standard procedure of installing
the lowest profile parts first and ending up with the tallest.

[[File:E1_31Bridge.png]]

# Install the 0.1uF (100nF) capacitors C4-C12.
# Install the 220 Ohm resistors R1-R3.
# Install the 120 Ohm resistors R4-R9.
# Install the 10K Ohm resistors R10-R12
# Install the 5Mhz Crystal X1.
# Install the Toggle Switches S1-S2.
# Install the seven 8 Pin IC sockets and one 40 pin socket.
# Install the green LED LED1.
# Install the red LEDs LED2-LED3.
# Install the 3.3V Regulator VR2 with the heat sink.
# Install the 3 Pin and 4 Pin headers JP1, H1.
# Install the two WizNet 1x6 pin headers.
# Install the twelve 2x3 output pin selectors.
# Install the power terminal block TB1.
# Install the three 47uF Capacitors C1-C3.
# Install the DC-DC Converter VR1.
# Install the six RJ45 jacks J1-J6.
# Install the six RT485BN in IC3-IC8 with the notches facing the edge with the power terminal block.
# Install the EEPROM in IC2 with the notch facing the edge with the power terminal block.
# Install the Propeller in IC1 with the notch facing the WizNet adapter.
# Install the WizNet adapter with the socket facing the Propeller IC.

H2 and IC9 will be unpopulated as these are both for future expansion.

Congratulations! That completes the construction of the 6 Port E1.31 Bridge!

==Jumpers==

There are two types of jumper groups on the E1.31 bridge. The first is to set the input voltage and the others to set the desired DMX or Renard physical output.

====Power Jumper - JP1====
This jumper is used if you are supplying either a well regulated +5v or unregulated +7-24v. If you apply +5vdc to the terminal block, you should put the jumper on the "EXT" setting (indicating you are getting 5v externally). If you apply +7-24vdc, you should put the jumper on the "INT" setting (indicating you are getting 5v internally via the 5v regulator).

You '''MUST''' ensure you have this jumper set correctly if you are using voltages greater than 5v as it may (and probably will) cause permanent damage to some components on the board. The Propeller chip uses 3.3v and would be fine but the RS-485 transceivers are 5v devices and would be probably be damaged.

====Output Configuration Jumpers====
Each port has a set of four separate jumpers. If you want a DMX output, you need to put all four jumpers to the "DMX" side. If you want a Renard output, you need to put all four jumpers to the "REN" side. It is important that all four jumpers are in the same position for that port. Note that the protocol for the port is different than the wired output.

When configured for '''DMX''', the output would be:
 Pin 1 - RS-485 D+
 Pin 2 - RS-485 D-
 Pin 7 - Signal Ground
 Pin 8 - No Connection
 Pins 3, 4, 5, and 6 have no connection.

When configured for '''REN''', the output would be:
 Pin 1 - Signal Ground
 Pin 2 - Signal Ground
 Pin 4 - RS-485 D-
 Pin 5 - RS-495 D+
 Pins 3, 6, 7 and 8 have no connection.

You can use the bridge to drive LOR controllers capable of supporting DMX as well. The simplest method is to configure the protocol for DMX and the REN output. You will be required to swap pins 4 and 5 however as LOR has these signals swapped. You may also want to connect pin 6 from the LOR to pins 1 or 2 if using the REN output.

==Powering the E1.31 Bridge==
As mentioned above, the bridge can be powered with either a well regulated +5vdc supply or an unregulated/regulated +7-24vdc supply. The power supply should supply at least XXX mA (dlovely to supply). Configure the power jumper appropriately before applying power.

==Initial Testing==

==Programming the EEPROM==
Current version of the firmware is v2.03 and you can download it [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=16732&d=1354385180 here].

The Programming port on the Bridge is the 4 pin header near the WizNet adapter. Match up the silk screen labels with those on the Prop Plug. You will need to externally power the bridge when programming it. 

===Programming Tools Required===
'''The reccomended way is to use the PropPlug.''' 
====PropPlug====
[[File:PropPlug.jpg]] 
You can get it from [http://www.diyledexpress.com DIYLEDExpress] during Pre-Sales or find it at [http://www.parallax.com/Store/Microcontrollers/PropellerTools/tabid/143/CategoryID/19/List/0/SortField/0/Level/a/ProductID/398/Default.aspx Parallax] or [http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Parallax/32201/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMt7FrWooXVB14dwtuxqLs8Y Mouser] anytime.
====Build your own====
[[File:SerialToPropeller.jpg]]

===Programming Howto===

* Download the [http://www.parallax.com/Portals/0/Downloads/sw/propeller/Setup-Propeller-Tool-v1.3.2.zip Parallax Propeller Tool] and install it.
* Run the Propeller Tool application and it will ask of you want to associate .eeprom files with the application, Say Yes.
* You can close the Propeller Tool application and double click on the .eeprom file you downloaded or from within the application go to File->Open and change the 'Files of type' to 'Propeller Applications' and open the Bridge_v2.02.eeprom file.
* A 'Object Info' screen will open, if not already enabled click 'Show Hex'
* Program the EEPROM on the Bridge by selecting 'Load EEPROM' and you are done.

==Configuring and installing the E1.31 Driver==
http://doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=E1.31_Vixen_Plugin

==Configuration Commands==

===Save===
'''SAve''' n where n is a memory page number from 0 to 7. Writes the currently displayed configuration to the specified memory page

===Load===
'''LOad''' n where n is a memory page number, 0-7. Loads the specified memory page and displays the information on the web page.

===Boot===
'''BOot''' 999 will restart the system. Make sure you do a SAVE first if you have made any changes or your changes will be lost!

===IP===
'''IP''' a.b.c.d where a.b.c.d is any valid IPv4 address.

This should be set within the same subnet as your sequencer PC Ethernet port unless you have routing enabled (not recommended). It is recommended that you have your show network on a separate subnet from your regular home network. This ensures you will not have issues with either interfering with the other. Note that this address is only used to configure/monitor the bridge - it is not used for the sequencer data itself.

===Subnet===
'''SUbnet''' a.b.c.d or '''SUbnet''' n where a.b.c.d is any valid subnet mask value, or n is the size of the subnet in bits.

This should also match the subnet mask of your PC Ethernet port since it is normally on the same subnet. This is typically 255.255.255.0 or 24 bits.

===Gateway===
'''GAteway''' a.b.c.d where a.b.c.d is any valid internet address. Usually the address of your router.

===DNS===
'''DNs''' a.b.c.d where a.b.c.d is any valid internet address. Usually the address of your router.
 
If you are only using DHCP (not recommended), you can leave the static IP areas unused.
Network addressing (static or DHCP IP) is only needed to access the configuration
page with a web browser. Once configured, no IP address is needed for normal operation.
The Default IP Mode, Web Server Mode, No Data Timeout, and Test Pattern commands affect
what happens when the system starts up.

===Default===
'''DEfault''' n where n is 0 or 1.

DE 0 sets the addressing mode to a static or fixed IPv4 network address that is configured with the commands above. DE 1 sets the addressing mode to DHCP - you must have a working DHCP server on your network for the bridge to get an address. It is highly recommended to use a static IP address for the bridge so that you always know where to find it on the network.

===Universe===
'''UNiverse''' b n Where b is the RJ45 output jack number, from 1 to 6 and n is universe from 1 to 63999.

===Protocol===
The Protocol command is used to set the protocol for each of the six output RJ45 jacks. The current valid protocols are DMX and RENARD. 
'''PRotocol''' b n Where b is the RJ45 output jack number, from 1 to 6 and n is 1 for DMX protocol and 2 is for Renard protocol.

===Baud===
The Baud command is used to set the baud rate for each of the four output RJ45 jacks.
NOTE: This command is only used for the Renard protocol. Baud rate will not be displayed when
the DMX protocol is selected. 
'''BAud''' b n Where b is the RJ45 output jack number, from 1 to 6
and n is 1 for a baud rate of 57,600 or 2 is for a baud rate of 115,200.
The Renard protocol refresh rate at 57,600bps for 512 channels is approximately 90ms and at
115,200bps the refresh rate for 512 channels is approximately 45ms.
The DMX protocol refresh rate is preset to 25ms.

==TroubleShooting==
So - you've built your new 6 Port E1.31 Bridge, connected it up to your computer and tried a quick sequence and nothing happens! There are several checks to perform in order:

===Visual Inspection===
The very first step involves a close visual inspection of the board. Double check that you have the correct component in the correct location and in the correct orientation. Look at every single solder connection and if some are not shiny or look suspect - reflow them to be sure.
===Power===

===EEPROM Programming===

===Communications===
====Output Configuration====
====Network Configuration====

==FAQ==

----
--[[User:Dlovely|Dlovely]] ([[User talk:Dlovely|talk]]) 11:47, 29 November 2012 (EST)

E1.31 Bridge

2013-03-23T07:09:53Z

Budude: /* Default */

'''This is a work in progress!!!!'''

----

=6 Port E1.31 Bridge Construction Manual=

==''What'' is the 6 Port E1.31 Bridge?==
The 6-port E1.31 bridge is a device that takes in an E1.31 stream from your network and converts (or 'bridges') that to multiple DMX or Renard output streams. E1.31 or sACN (Streaming Architecture for Control Networks) is method of multiplexing multiple DMX streams over your network using unicast or multicast UDP packets. The 6-port bridge currently only supports multicast streams. This makes it simpler to configure but has drawbacks in very large configurations (10's of streams). E1.31 can support 64K worth of DMX streams or 'universes' so it has a virtually unlimited amount of expansion available.

The 6-port bridge can handle up to six E1.31 universes, each of which get directed to a particular port. By default the bridge is configured to send universe '1' to port number 1, universe '2' to port number 2 and so on but you can assign any of the 64k universe numbers to any port if you wish. The bridge takes in the particular universe stream and either outputs it directly out each port for DMX output or it performs a conversion to Renard protocol. The protocol used depends of course on what you plan to use for controllers on the ports that you have configured. You can configure any mix of DMX and Renard protocols to any port.

The bridge has another feature so that each physical output can be re-wired to support with a "standard" DMX RJ-45 output or a Renard output without resorting to making custom cables to support either. The output of the bridge is always RS-485 in either case. Note that regardless if your Renard controller is running standard Renard/Serial code or Renard/DMX code, the jumpers should always be configured for Renard since the physical interface does not change.

==How does the 6 Port E1.31 Bridge work?==

As mentioned above, the bridge takes in a multicast E1.31 UDP stream, determines which stream belongs to which port (if any) and sends that data out the appropriate port. The E1.31 stream enters the bridge via an Ethernet port on the Wiz820io module and is converted to a serial signal that is sent on to the Propeller microcontroller chip. Your sequencer or streaming tool sends multicast packets with an address of 239.255.<UHB>.<ULB> where UHB is the Universe high byte and LHB is the Universe low byte. As an example, the address for universe '1' would be 239.255.0.1. This is why using multicast addressing can be simpler to configure since this address is always the same for any device using that universe. The disadvantage of using multicast is that the packets are sent to every device on the subnet regardless if they are destined for it or not. This means the receiving device must read in the header for each packet or have the means to block these within hardware. Depending on the device and the number of universes of data sent it can swamp the device and possibly end up causing a loss of data. Note however that this is not an issue for most networks until you get into the dozens of universes so it's not an issue for most users.

Unicast is another method of sending E1.31 packets. For this method, the IP address used to manage/configure the device is also used for the data packets. In this case, the packets are sent directly to the device instead of being broadcast across the entire subnet.

The Parallax Propeller microcontroller determines if the address matches one of the configured ports universe numbers and if it does, reads in the entire DMX stream and sends them out that particular port either as-is or after conversion to Renard protocol. The Propeller chip is quite powerful, it is essentially eight separate microcontrollers in a single package. These internal processors or COGs as they are called can each run completely different (or the same) code. This allows you to partition different functions to different COGs within your code. If a COG is not used, it does not use any resources which allows you to run the others faster. For more information on the Propeller, visit the Parallax site.

For the bridge, the COGs are used to support both the multiple input processing as well as the six port output processing.

==Revision History==

==6 Port E1.31 Bridge Parts==
In addition to the [http://www.diyledexpress.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=22&products_id=158 PCB], you will need the following components:

<table border="1"><tr><td>'''Mouser BOM'''</td></tr>
<tr><td>Mouser PN</td><td>Description</td><td>Qty</td></tr>
</table>

[http://www.mouser.com:80/ Click here for Mouser Direct Project BOM]

The BOM is available from [http://www.diyledexpress.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=22&products_id=157 DIYLEDExpress.com] 

==Building the 6 Port E1.31 Bridge==

The 6 Port E1.31 Bridge requires a fair bit of soldering so take your time and ensure you
install the components in the correct orientation when required. Start by sorting
the components by type and values. Look over the PCB before starting noting the
location of the various components. Follow the standard procedure of installing
the lowest profile parts first and ending up with the tallest.

[[File:E1_31Bridge.png]]

# Install the 0.1uF (100nF) capacitors C4-C12.
# Install the 220 Ohm resistors R1-R3.
# Install the 120 Ohm resistors R4-R9.
# Install the 10K Ohm resistors R10-R12
# Install the 5Mhz Crystal X1.
# Install the Toggle Switches S1-S2.
# Install the seven 8 Pin IC sockets and one 40 pin socket.
# Install the green LED LED1.
# Install the red LEDs LED2-LED3.
# Install the 3.3V Regulator VR2 with the heat sink.
# Install the 3 Pin and 4 Pin headers JP1, H1.
# Install the two WizNet 1x6 pin headers.
# Install the twelve 2x3 output pin selectors.
# Install the power terminal block TB1.
# Install the three 47uF Capacitors C1-C3.
# Install the DC-DC Converter VR1.
# Install the six RJ45 jacks J1-J6.
# Install the six RT485BN in IC3-IC8 with the notches facing the edge with the power terminal block.
# Install the EEPROM in IC2 with the notch facing the edge with the power terminal block.
# Install the Propeller in IC1 with the notch facing the WizNet adapter.
# Install the WizNet adapter with the socket facing the Propeller IC.

H2 and IC9 will be unpopulated as these are both for future expansion.

Congratulations! That completes the construction of the 6 Port E1.31 Bridge!

==Jumpers==

There are two types of jumper groups on the E1.31 bridge. The first is to set the input voltage and the others to set the desired DMX or Renard physical output.

====Power Jumper - JP1====
This jumper is used if you are supplying either a well regulated +5v or unregulated +7-24v. If you apply +5vdc to the terminal block, you should put the jumper on the "EXT" setting (indicating you are getting 5v externally). If you apply +7-24vdc, you should put the jumper on the "INT" setting (indicating you are getting 5v internally via the 5v regulator).

You '''MUST''' ensure you have this jumper set correctly if you are using voltages greater than 5v as it may (and probably will) cause permanent damage to some components on the board. The Propeller chip uses 3.3v and would be fine but the RS-485 transceivers are 5v devices and would be probably be damaged.

====Output Configuration Jumpers====
Each port has a set of four separate jumpers. If you want a DMX output, you need to put all four jumpers to the "DMX" side. If you want a Renard output, you need to put all four jumpers to the "REN" side. It is important that all four jumpers are in the same position for that port. Note that the protocol for the port is different than the wired output.

When configured for '''DMX''', the output would be:
 Pin 1 - RS-485 D+
 Pin 2 - RS-485 D-
 Pin 7 - Signal Ground
 Pin 8 - No Connection
 Pins 3, 4, 5, and 6 have no connection.

When configured for '''REN''', the output would be:
 Pin 1 - Signal Ground
 Pin 2 - Signal Ground
 Pin 4 - RS-485 D-
 Pin 5 - RS-495 D+
 Pins 3, 6, 7 and 8 have no connection.

You can use the bridge to drive LOR controllers capable of supporting DMX as well. The simplest method is to configure the protocol for DMX and the REN output. You will be required to swap pins 4 and 5 however as LOR has these signals swapped. You may also want to connect pin 6 from the LOR to pins 1 or 2 if using the REN output.

==Powering the E1.31 Bridge==
As mentioned above, the bridge can be powered with either a well regulated +5vdc supply or an unregulated/regulated +7-24vdc supply. The power supply should supply at least XXX mA (dlovely to supply). Configure the power jumper appropriately before applying power.

==Initial Testing==

==Programming the EEPROM==
Current version of the firmware is v2.03 and you can download it [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=16732&d=1354385180 here].

The Programming port on the Bridge is the 4 pin header near the WizNet adapter. Match up the silk screen labels with those on the Prop Plug. You will need to externally power the bridge when programming it. 

===Programming Tools Required===
'''The reccomended way is to use the PropPlug.''' 
====PropPlug====
[[File:PropPlug.jpg]] 
You can get it from [http://www.diyledexpress.com DIYLEDExpress] during Pre-Sales or find it at [http://www.parallax.com/Store/Microcontrollers/PropellerTools/tabid/143/CategoryID/19/List/0/SortField/0/Level/a/ProductID/398/Default.aspx Parallax] or [http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Parallax/32201/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMt7FrWooXVB14dwtuxqLs8Y Mouser] anytime.
====Build your own====
[[File:SerialToPropeller.jpg]]

===Programming Howto===

* Download the [http://www.parallax.com/Portals/0/Downloads/sw/propeller/Setup-Propeller-Tool-v1.3.2.zip Parallax Propeller Tool] and install it.
* Run the Propeller Tool application and it will ask of you want to associate .eeprom files with the application, Say Yes.
* You can close the Propeller Tool application and double click on the .eeprom file you downloaded or from within the application go to File->Open and change the 'Files of type' to 'Propeller Applications' and open the Bridge_v2.02.eeprom file.
* A 'Object Info' screen will open, if not already enabled click 'Show Hex'
* Program the EEPROM on the Bridge by selecting 'Load EEPROM' and you are done.

==Configuring and installing the E1.31 Driver==
http://doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=E1.31_Vixen_Plugin

==Configuration Commands==

===Save===
'''SAve''' n where n is a memory page number from 0 to 7. Writes the currently displayed configuration to the specified memory page

===Load===
'''LOad''' n where n is a memory page number, 0-7. Loads the specified memory page and displays the information on the web page.

===Boot===
'''BOot''' 999 will restart the system. Make sure you do a SAVE first if you have made any changes or your changes will be lost!

===IP===
'''IP''' a.b.c.d where a.b.c.d is any valid IPv4 address.

This should be set within the same subnet as your sequencer PC Ethernet port unless you have routing enabled (not recommended). It is recommended that you have your show network on a separate subnet from your regular home network. This ensures you will not have issues with either interfering with the other. Note that this address is only used to configure/monitor the bridge - it is not used for the sequencer data itself.

===Subnet===
'''SUbnet''' a.b.c.d or '''SUbnet''' n where a.b.c.d is any valid subnet mask value, or n is the size of the subnet in bits.

This should also match the subnet mask of your PC Ethernet port since it is normally on the same subnet. This is typically 255.255.255.0 or 24 bits.

===Gateway===
'''GAteway''' a.b.c.d where a.b.c.d is any valid internet address. Usually the address of your router.

===DNS===
'''DNs''' a.b.c.d where a.b.c.d is any valid internet address. Usually the address of your router.
 
If you are only using DHCP (not recommended), you can leave the static IP areas unused.
Network addressing (static or DHCP IP) is only needed to access the configuration
page with a web browser. Once configured, no IP address is needed for normal operation.
The Default IP Mode, Web Server Mode, No Data Timeout, and Test Pattern commands affect
what happens when the system starts up.

===Default===
'''DEfault''' n where n is 0 or 1.

DE 0 sets the addressing mode to a static or fixed IPv4 network address that is configured with the commands above. DE 1 sets the addressing mode to DHCP - you must have a working DHCP server on your network for the bridge to get an address. It is highly recommended to use a static IP address for the bridge so that you always know where to find it on the network.

===Universe===
'''UNiverse''' b n Where b is the RJ45 output jack number, from 1 to 6 and n is universe from 1 to 63999.

===Protocol===
The Protocol command is used to set the protocol for each of the six output RJ45 jacks. The current valid protocols are DMX and RENARD. 
'''PRotocol''' b n Where b is the RJ45 output jack number, from 1 to 6 and n is 1 for DMX protocol and 2 is for Renard protocol.

===Baud===
The Baud command is used to set the baud rate for each of the four output RJ45 jacks.
NOTE: This command is only used for the Renard protocol. Baud rate will not be displayed when
the DMX protocol is selected. 
'''BAud''' b n Where b is the RJ45 output jack number, from 1 to 6
and n is 1 for a baud rate of 57,600 or 2 is for a baud rate of 115,200.
The Renard protocol refresh rate at 57,600bps for 512 channels is approximately 90ms and at
115,200bps the refresh rate for 512 channels is approximately 45ms.
The DMX protocol refresh rate is preset to 25ms.

==TroubleShooting==
So - you've built your new 6 Port E1.31 Bridge, connected it up to your computer and tried a quick sequence and nothing happens! There are several checks to perform in order:

===Visual Inspection===
The very first step involves a close visual inspection of the board. Double check that you have the correct component in the correct location and in the correct orientation. Look at every single solder connection and if some are not shiny or look suspect - reflow them to be sure.
===Power===

===EEPROM Programming===

===Communications===
====Output Configuration====
====Network Configuration====

==FAQ==

----
--[[User:Dlovely|Dlovely]] ([[User talk:Dlovely|talk]]) 11:47, 29 November 2012 (EST)

E1.31 Bridge

2013-03-23T07:01:33Z

Budude: /* Subnet */

'''This is a work in progress!!!!'''

----

=6 Port E1.31 Bridge Construction Manual=

==''What'' is the 6 Port E1.31 Bridge?==
The 6-port E1.31 bridge is a device that takes in an E1.31 stream from your network and converts (or 'bridges') that to multiple DMX or Renard output streams. E1.31 or sACN (Streaming Architecture for Control Networks) is method of multiplexing multiple DMX streams over your network using unicast or multicast UDP packets. The 6-port bridge currently only supports multicast streams. This makes it simpler to configure but has drawbacks in very large configurations (10's of streams). E1.31 can support 64K worth of DMX streams or 'universes' so it has a virtually unlimited amount of expansion available.

The 6-port bridge can handle up to six E1.31 universes, each of which get directed to a particular port. By default the bridge is configured to send universe '1' to port number 1, universe '2' to port number 2 and so on but you can assign any of the 64k universe numbers to any port if you wish. The bridge takes in the particular universe stream and either outputs it directly out each port for DMX output or it performs a conversion to Renard protocol. The protocol used depends of course on what you plan to use for controllers on the ports that you have configured. You can configure any mix of DMX and Renard protocols to any port.

The bridge has another feature so that each physical output can be re-wired to support with a "standard" DMX RJ-45 output or a Renard output without resorting to making custom cables to support either. The output of the bridge is always RS-485 in either case. Note that regardless if your Renard controller is running standard Renard/Serial code or Renard/DMX code, the jumpers should always be configured for Renard since the physical interface does not change.

==How does the 6 Port E1.31 Bridge work?==

As mentioned above, the bridge takes in a multicast E1.31 UDP stream, determines which stream belongs to which port (if any) and sends that data out the appropriate port. The E1.31 stream enters the bridge via an Ethernet port on the Wiz820io module and is converted to a serial signal that is sent on to the Propeller microcontroller chip. Your sequencer or streaming tool sends multicast packets with an address of 239.255.<UHB>.<ULB> where UHB is the Universe high byte and LHB is the Universe low byte. As an example, the address for universe '1' would be 239.255.0.1. This is why using multicast addressing can be simpler to configure since this address is always the same for any device using that universe. The disadvantage of using multicast is that the packets are sent to every device on the subnet regardless if they are destined for it or not. This means the receiving device must read in the header for each packet or have the means to block these within hardware. Depending on the device and the number of universes of data sent it can swamp the device and possibly end up causing a loss of data. Note however that this is not an issue for most networks until you get into the dozens of universes so it's not an issue for most users.

Unicast is another method of sending E1.31 packets. For this method, the IP address used to manage/configure the device is also used for the data packets. In this case, the packets are sent directly to the device instead of being broadcast across the entire subnet.

The Parallax Propeller microcontroller determines if the address matches one of the configured ports universe numbers and if it does, reads in the entire DMX stream and sends them out that particular port either as-is or after conversion to Renard protocol. The Propeller chip is quite powerful, it is essentially eight separate microcontrollers in a single package. These internal processors or COGs as they are called can each run completely different (or the same) code. This allows you to partition different functions to different COGs within your code. If a COG is not used, it does not use any resources which allows you to run the others faster. For more information on the Propeller, visit the Parallax site.

For the bridge, the COGs are used to support both the multiple input processing as well as the six port output processing.

==Revision History==

==6 Port E1.31 Bridge Parts==
In addition to the [http://www.diyledexpress.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=22&products_id=158 PCB], you will need the following components:

<table border="1"><tr><td>'''Mouser BOM'''</td></tr>
<tr><td>Mouser PN</td><td>Description</td><td>Qty</td></tr>
</table>

[http://www.mouser.com:80/ Click here for Mouser Direct Project BOM]

The BOM is available from [http://www.diyledexpress.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=22&products_id=157 DIYLEDExpress.com] 

==Building the 6 Port E1.31 Bridge==

The 6 Port E1.31 Bridge requires a fair bit of soldering so take your time and ensure you
install the components in the correct orientation when required. Start by sorting
the components by type and values. Look over the PCB before starting noting the
location of the various components. Follow the standard procedure of installing
the lowest profile parts first and ending up with the tallest.

[[File:E1_31Bridge.png]]

# Install the 0.1uF (100nF) capacitors C4-C12.
# Install the 220 Ohm resistors R1-R3.
# Install the 120 Ohm resistors R4-R9.
# Install the 10K Ohm resistors R10-R12
# Install the 5Mhz Crystal X1.
# Install the Toggle Switches S1-S2.
# Install the seven 8 Pin IC sockets and one 40 pin socket.
# Install the green LED LED1.
# Install the red LEDs LED2-LED3.
# Install the 3.3V Regulator VR2 with the heat sink.
# Install the 3 Pin and 4 Pin headers JP1, H1.
# Install the two WizNet 1x6 pin headers.
# Install the twelve 2x3 output pin selectors.
# Install the power terminal block TB1.
# Install the three 47uF Capacitors C1-C3.
# Install the DC-DC Converter VR1.
# Install the six RJ45 jacks J1-J6.
# Install the six RT485BN in IC3-IC8 with the notches facing the edge with the power terminal block.
# Install the EEPROM in IC2 with the notch facing the edge with the power terminal block.
# Install the Propeller in IC1 with the notch facing the WizNet adapter.
# Install the WizNet adapter with the socket facing the Propeller IC.

H2 and IC9 will be unpopulated as these are both for future expansion.

Congratulations! That completes the construction of the 6 Port E1.31 Bridge!

==Jumpers==

There are two types of jumper groups on the E1.31 bridge. The first is to set the input voltage and the others to set the desired DMX or Renard physical output.

====Power Jumper - JP1====
This jumper is used if you are supplying either a well regulated +5v or unregulated +7-24v. If you apply +5vdc to the terminal block, you should put the jumper on the "EXT" setting (indicating you are getting 5v externally). If you apply +7-24vdc, you should put the jumper on the "INT" setting (indicating you are getting 5v internally via the 5v regulator).

You '''MUST''' ensure you have this jumper set correctly if you are using voltages greater than 5v as it may (and probably will) cause permanent damage to some components on the board. The Propeller chip uses 3.3v and would be fine but the RS-485 transceivers are 5v devices and would be probably be damaged.

====Output Configuration Jumpers====
Each port has a set of four separate jumpers. If you want a DMX output, you need to put all four jumpers to the "DMX" side. If you want a Renard output, you need to put all four jumpers to the "REN" side. It is important that all four jumpers are in the same position for that port. Note that the protocol for the port is different than the wired output.

When configured for '''DMX''', the output would be:
 Pin 1 - RS-485 D+
 Pin 2 - RS-485 D-
 Pin 7 - Signal Ground
 Pin 8 - No Connection
 Pins 3, 4, 5, and 6 have no connection.

When configured for '''REN''', the output would be:
 Pin 1 - Signal Ground
 Pin 2 - Signal Ground
 Pin 4 - RS-485 D-
 Pin 5 - RS-495 D+
 Pins 3, 6, 7 and 8 have no connection.

You can use the bridge to drive LOR controllers capable of supporting DMX as well. The simplest method is to configure the protocol for DMX and the REN output. You will be required to swap pins 4 and 5 however as LOR has these signals swapped. You may also want to connect pin 6 from the LOR to pins 1 or 2 if using the REN output.

==Powering the E1.31 Bridge==
As mentioned above, the bridge can be powered with either a well regulated +5vdc supply or an unregulated/regulated +7-24vdc supply. The power supply should supply at least XXX mA (dlovely to supply). Configure the power jumper appropriately before applying power.

==Initial Testing==

==Programming the EEPROM==
Current version of the firmware is v2.03 and you can download it [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=16732&d=1354385180 here].

The Programming port on the Bridge is the 4 pin header near the WizNet adapter. Match up the silk screen labels with those on the Prop Plug. You will need to externally power the bridge when programming it. 

===Programming Tools Required===
'''The reccomended way is to use the PropPlug.''' 
====PropPlug====
[[File:PropPlug.jpg]] 
You can get it from [http://www.diyledexpress.com DIYLEDExpress] during Pre-Sales or find it at [http://www.parallax.com/Store/Microcontrollers/PropellerTools/tabid/143/CategoryID/19/List/0/SortField/0/Level/a/ProductID/398/Default.aspx Parallax] or [http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Parallax/32201/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMt7FrWooXVB14dwtuxqLs8Y Mouser] anytime.
====Build your own====
[[File:SerialToPropeller.jpg]]

===Programming Howto===

* Download the [http://www.parallax.com/Portals/0/Downloads/sw/propeller/Setup-Propeller-Tool-v1.3.2.zip Parallax Propeller Tool] and install it.
* Run the Propeller Tool application and it will ask of you want to associate .eeprom files with the application, Say Yes.
* You can close the Propeller Tool application and double click on the .eeprom file you downloaded or from within the application go to File->Open and change the 'Files of type' to 'Propeller Applications' and open the Bridge_v2.02.eeprom file.
* A 'Object Info' screen will open, if not already enabled click 'Show Hex'
* Program the EEPROM on the Bridge by selecting 'Load EEPROM' and you are done.

==Configuring and installing the E1.31 Driver==
http://doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=E1.31_Vixen_Plugin

==Configuration Commands==

===Save===
'''SAve''' n where n is a memory page number from 0 to 7. Writes the currently displayed configuration to the specified memory page

===Load===
'''LOad''' n where n is a memory page number, 0-7. Loads the specified memory page and displays the information on the web page.

===Boot===
'''BOot''' 999 will restart the system. Make sure you do a SAVE first if you have made any changes or your changes will be lost!

===IP===
'''IP''' a.b.c.d where a.b.c.d is any valid IPv4 address.

This should be set within the same subnet as your sequencer PC Ethernet port unless you have routing enabled (not recommended). It is recommended that you have your show network on a separate subnet from your regular home network. This ensures you will not have issues with either interfering with the other. Note that this address is only used to configure/monitor the bridge - it is not used for the sequencer data itself.

===Subnet===
'''SUbnet''' a.b.c.d or '''SUbnet''' n where a.b.c.d is any valid subnet mask value, or n is the size of the subnet in bits.

This should also match the subnet mask of your PC Ethernet port since it is normally on the same subnet. This is typically 255.255.255.0 or 24 bits.

===Gateway===
'''GAteway''' a.b.c.d where a.b.c.d is any valid internet address. Usually the address of your router.

===DNS===
'''DNs''' a.b.c.d where a.b.c.d is any valid internet address. Usually the address of your router.
 
If you are only using DHCP (not recommended), you can leave the static IP areas unused.
Network addressing (static or DHCP IP) is only needed to access the configuration
page with a web browser. Once configured, no IP address is needed for normal operation.
The Default IP Mode, Web Server Mode, No Data Timeout, and Test Pattern commands affect
what happens when the system starts up.

===Default===
'''DEfault''' n where n is 0 or 1. DE 0 sets a default network mode of STATIC, DE 1 sets a default network mode of DHCP.

===Universe===
'''UNiverse''' b n Where b is the RJ45 output jack number, from 1 to 6 and n is universe from 1 to 63999.

===Protocol===
The Protocol command is used to set the protocol for each of the six output RJ45 jacks. The current valid protocols are DMX and RENARD. 
'''PRotocol''' b n Where b is the RJ45 output jack number, from 1 to 6 and n is 1 for DMX protocol and 2 is for Renard protocol.

===Baud===
The Baud command is used to set the baud rate for each of the four output RJ45 jacks.
NOTE: This command is only used for the Renard protocol. Baud rate will not be displayed when
the DMX protocol is selected. 
'''BAud''' b n Where b is the RJ45 output jack number, from 1 to 6
and n is 1 for a baud rate of 57,600 or 2 is for a baud rate of 115,200.
The Renard protocol refresh rate at 57,600bps for 512 channels is approximately 90ms and at
115,200bps the refresh rate for 512 channels is approximately 45ms.
The DMX protocol refresh rate is preset to 25ms.

==TroubleShooting==
So - you've built your new 6 Port E1.31 Bridge, connected it up to your computer and tried a quick sequence and nothing happens! There are several checks to perform in order:

===Visual Inspection===
The very first step involves a close visual inspection of the board. Double check that you have the correct component in the correct location and in the correct orientation. Look at every single solder connection and if some are not shiny or look suspect - reflow them to be sure.
===Power===

===EEPROM Programming===

===Communications===
====Output Configuration====
====Network Configuration====

==FAQ==

----
--[[User:Dlovely|Dlovely]] ([[User talk:Dlovely|talk]]) 11:47, 29 November 2012 (EST)

E1.31 Bridge

2013-03-23T07:00:07Z

Budude: /* IP */

'''This is a work in progress!!!!'''

----

=6 Port E1.31 Bridge Construction Manual=

==''What'' is the 6 Port E1.31 Bridge?==
The 6-port E1.31 bridge is a device that takes in an E1.31 stream from your network and converts (or 'bridges') that to multiple DMX or Renard output streams. E1.31 or sACN (Streaming Architecture for Control Networks) is method of multiplexing multiple DMX streams over your network using unicast or multicast UDP packets. The 6-port bridge currently only supports multicast streams. This makes it simpler to configure but has drawbacks in very large configurations (10's of streams). E1.31 can support 64K worth of DMX streams or 'universes' so it has a virtually unlimited amount of expansion available.

The 6-port bridge can handle up to six E1.31 universes, each of which get directed to a particular port. By default the bridge is configured to send universe '1' to port number 1, universe '2' to port number 2 and so on but you can assign any of the 64k universe numbers to any port if you wish. The bridge takes in the particular universe stream and either outputs it directly out each port for DMX output or it performs a conversion to Renard protocol. The protocol used depends of course on what you plan to use for controllers on the ports that you have configured. You can configure any mix of DMX and Renard protocols to any port.

The bridge has another feature so that each physical output can be re-wired to support with a "standard" DMX RJ-45 output or a Renard output without resorting to making custom cables to support either. The output of the bridge is always RS-485 in either case. Note that regardless if your Renard controller is running standard Renard/Serial code or Renard/DMX code, the jumpers should always be configured for Renard since the physical interface does not change.

==How does the 6 Port E1.31 Bridge work?==

As mentioned above, the bridge takes in a multicast E1.31 UDP stream, determines which stream belongs to which port (if any) and sends that data out the appropriate port. The E1.31 stream enters the bridge via an Ethernet port on the Wiz820io module and is converted to a serial signal that is sent on to the Propeller microcontroller chip. Your sequencer or streaming tool sends multicast packets with an address of 239.255.<UHB>.<ULB> where UHB is the Universe high byte and LHB is the Universe low byte. As an example, the address for universe '1' would be 239.255.0.1. This is why using multicast addressing can be simpler to configure since this address is always the same for any device using that universe. The disadvantage of using multicast is that the packets are sent to every device on the subnet regardless if they are destined for it or not. This means the receiving device must read in the header for each packet or have the means to block these within hardware. Depending on the device and the number of universes of data sent it can swamp the device and possibly end up causing a loss of data. Note however that this is not an issue for most networks until you get into the dozens of universes so it's not an issue for most users.

Unicast is another method of sending E1.31 packets. For this method, the IP address used to manage/configure the device is also used for the data packets. In this case, the packets are sent directly to the device instead of being broadcast across the entire subnet.

The Parallax Propeller microcontroller determines if the address matches one of the configured ports universe numbers and if it does, reads in the entire DMX stream and sends them out that particular port either as-is or after conversion to Renard protocol. The Propeller chip is quite powerful, it is essentially eight separate microcontrollers in a single package. These internal processors or COGs as they are called can each run completely different (or the same) code. This allows you to partition different functions to different COGs within your code. If a COG is not used, it does not use any resources which allows you to run the others faster. For more information on the Propeller, visit the Parallax site.

For the bridge, the COGs are used to support both the multiple input processing as well as the six port output processing.

==Revision History==

==6 Port E1.31 Bridge Parts==
In addition to the [http://www.diyledexpress.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=22&products_id=158 PCB], you will need the following components:

<table border="1"><tr><td>'''Mouser BOM'''</td></tr>
<tr><td>Mouser PN</td><td>Description</td><td>Qty</td></tr>
</table>

[http://www.mouser.com:80/ Click here for Mouser Direct Project BOM]

The BOM is available from [http://www.diyledexpress.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=22&products_id=157 DIYLEDExpress.com] 

==Building the 6 Port E1.31 Bridge==

The 6 Port E1.31 Bridge requires a fair bit of soldering so take your time and ensure you
install the components in the correct orientation when required. Start by sorting
the components by type and values. Look over the PCB before starting noting the
location of the various components. Follow the standard procedure of installing
the lowest profile parts first and ending up with the tallest.

[[File:E1_31Bridge.png]]

# Install the 0.1uF (100nF) capacitors C4-C12.
# Install the 220 Ohm resistors R1-R3.
# Install the 120 Ohm resistors R4-R9.
# Install the 10K Ohm resistors R10-R12
# Install the 5Mhz Crystal X1.
# Install the Toggle Switches S1-S2.
# Install the seven 8 Pin IC sockets and one 40 pin socket.
# Install the green LED LED1.
# Install the red LEDs LED2-LED3.
# Install the 3.3V Regulator VR2 with the heat sink.
# Install the 3 Pin and 4 Pin headers JP1, H1.
# Install the two WizNet 1x6 pin headers.
# Install the twelve 2x3 output pin selectors.
# Install the power terminal block TB1.
# Install the three 47uF Capacitors C1-C3.
# Install the DC-DC Converter VR1.
# Install the six RJ45 jacks J1-J6.
# Install the six RT485BN in IC3-IC8 with the notches facing the edge with the power terminal block.
# Install the EEPROM in IC2 with the notch facing the edge with the power terminal block.
# Install the Propeller in IC1 with the notch facing the WizNet adapter.
# Install the WizNet adapter with the socket facing the Propeller IC.

H2 and IC9 will be unpopulated as these are both for future expansion.

Congratulations! That completes the construction of the 6 Port E1.31 Bridge!

==Jumpers==

There are two types of jumper groups on the E1.31 bridge. The first is to set the input voltage and the others to set the desired DMX or Renard physical output.

====Power Jumper - JP1====
This jumper is used if you are supplying either a well regulated +5v or unregulated +7-24v. If you apply +5vdc to the terminal block, you should put the jumper on the "EXT" setting (indicating you are getting 5v externally). If you apply +7-24vdc, you should put the jumper on the "INT" setting (indicating you are getting 5v internally via the 5v regulator).

You '''MUST''' ensure you have this jumper set correctly if you are using voltages greater than 5v as it may (and probably will) cause permanent damage to some components on the board. The Propeller chip uses 3.3v and would be fine but the RS-485 transceivers are 5v devices and would be probably be damaged.

====Output Configuration Jumpers====
Each port has a set of four separate jumpers. If you want a DMX output, you need to put all four jumpers to the "DMX" side. If you want a Renard output, you need to put all four jumpers to the "REN" side. It is important that all four jumpers are in the same position for that port. Note that the protocol for the port is different than the wired output.

When configured for '''DMX''', the output would be:
 Pin 1 - RS-485 D+
 Pin 2 - RS-485 D-
 Pin 7 - Signal Ground
 Pin 8 - No Connection
 Pins 3, 4, 5, and 6 have no connection.

When configured for '''REN''', the output would be:
 Pin 1 - Signal Ground
 Pin 2 - Signal Ground
 Pin 4 - RS-485 D-
 Pin 5 - RS-495 D+
 Pins 3, 6, 7 and 8 have no connection.

You can use the bridge to drive LOR controllers capable of supporting DMX as well. The simplest method is to configure the protocol for DMX and the REN output. You will be required to swap pins 4 and 5 however as LOR has these signals swapped. You may also want to connect pin 6 from the LOR to pins 1 or 2 if using the REN output.

==Powering the E1.31 Bridge==
As mentioned above, the bridge can be powered with either a well regulated +5vdc supply or an unregulated/regulated +7-24vdc supply. The power supply should supply at least XXX mA (dlovely to supply). Configure the power jumper appropriately before applying power.

==Initial Testing==

==Programming the EEPROM==
Current version of the firmware is v2.03 and you can download it [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=16732&d=1354385180 here].

The Programming port on the Bridge is the 4 pin header near the WizNet adapter. Match up the silk screen labels with those on the Prop Plug. You will need to externally power the bridge when programming it. 

===Programming Tools Required===
'''The reccomended way is to use the PropPlug.''' 
====PropPlug====
[[File:PropPlug.jpg]] 
You can get it from [http://www.diyledexpress.com DIYLEDExpress] during Pre-Sales or find it at [http://www.parallax.com/Store/Microcontrollers/PropellerTools/tabid/143/CategoryID/19/List/0/SortField/0/Level/a/ProductID/398/Default.aspx Parallax] or [http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Parallax/32201/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMt7FrWooXVB14dwtuxqLs8Y Mouser] anytime.
====Build your own====
[[File:SerialToPropeller.jpg]]

===Programming Howto===

* Download the [http://www.parallax.com/Portals/0/Downloads/sw/propeller/Setup-Propeller-Tool-v1.3.2.zip Parallax Propeller Tool] and install it.
* Run the Propeller Tool application and it will ask of you want to associate .eeprom files with the application, Say Yes.
* You can close the Propeller Tool application and double click on the .eeprom file you downloaded or from within the application go to File->Open and change the 'Files of type' to 'Propeller Applications' and open the Bridge_v2.02.eeprom file.
* A 'Object Info' screen will open, if not already enabled click 'Show Hex'
* Program the EEPROM on the Bridge by selecting 'Load EEPROM' and you are done.

==Configuring and installing the E1.31 Driver==
http://doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=E1.31_Vixen_Plugin

==Configuration Commands==

===Save===
'''SAve''' n where n is a memory page number from 0 to 7. Writes the currently displayed configuration to the specified memory page

===Load===
'''LOad''' n where n is a memory page number, 0-7. Loads the specified memory page and displays the information on the web page.

===Boot===
'''BOot''' 999 will restart the system. Make sure you do a SAVE first if you have made any changes or your changes will be lost!

===IP===
'''IP''' a.b.c.d where a.b.c.d is any valid IPv4 address.

This should be set within the same subnet as your sequencer PC Ethernet port unless you have routing enabled (not recommended). It is recommended that you have your show network on a separate subnet from your regular home network. This ensures you will not have issues with either interfering with the other. Note that this address is only used to configure/monitor the bridge - it is not used for the sequencer data itself.

===Subnet===
'''SUbnet''' a.b.c.d or '''SUbnet''' n where a.b.c.d is any valid subnet mask value, or n is the size of the subnet in bits.

===Gateway===
'''GAteway''' a.b.c.d where a.b.c.d is any valid internet address. Usually the address of your router.

===DNS===
'''DNs''' a.b.c.d where a.b.c.d is any valid internet address. Usually the address of your router.
 
If you are only using DHCP (not recommended), you can leave the static IP areas unused.
Network addressing (static or DHCP IP) is only needed to access the configuration
page with a web browser. Once configured, no IP address is needed for normal operation.
The Default IP Mode, Web Server Mode, No Data Timeout, and Test Pattern commands affect
what happens when the system starts up.

===Default===
'''DEfault''' n where n is 0 or 1. DE 0 sets a default network mode of STATIC, DE 1 sets a default network mode of DHCP.

===Universe===
'''UNiverse''' b n Where b is the RJ45 output jack number, from 1 to 6 and n is universe from 1 to 63999.

===Protocol===
The Protocol command is used to set the protocol for each of the six output RJ45 jacks. The current valid protocols are DMX and RENARD. 
'''PRotocol''' b n Where b is the RJ45 output jack number, from 1 to 6 and n is 1 for DMX protocol and 2 is for Renard protocol.

===Baud===
The Baud command is used to set the baud rate for each of the four output RJ45 jacks.
NOTE: This command is only used for the Renard protocol. Baud rate will not be displayed when
the DMX protocol is selected. 
'''BAud''' b n Where b is the RJ45 output jack number, from 1 to 6
and n is 1 for a baud rate of 57,600 or 2 is for a baud rate of 115,200.
The Renard protocol refresh rate at 57,600bps for 512 channels is approximately 90ms and at
115,200bps the refresh rate for 512 channels is approximately 45ms.
The DMX protocol refresh rate is preset to 25ms.

==TroubleShooting==
So - you've built your new 6 Port E1.31 Bridge, connected it up to your computer and tried a quick sequence and nothing happens! There are several checks to perform in order:

===Visual Inspection===
The very first step involves a close visual inspection of the board. Double check that you have the correct component in the correct location and in the correct orientation. Look at every single solder connection and if some are not shiny or look suspect - reflow them to be sure.
===Power===

===EEPROM Programming===

===Communications===
====Output Configuration====
====Network Configuration====

==FAQ==

----
--[[User:Dlovely|Dlovely]] ([[User talk:Dlovely|talk]]) 11:47, 29 November 2012 (EST)

E1.31 Bridge

2013-03-23T06:59:48Z

Budude: /* IP */

'''This is a work in progress!!!!'''

----

=6 Port E1.31 Bridge Construction Manual=

==''What'' is the 6 Port E1.31 Bridge?==
The 6-port E1.31 bridge is a device that takes in an E1.31 stream from your network and converts (or 'bridges') that to multiple DMX or Renard output streams. E1.31 or sACN (Streaming Architecture for Control Networks) is method of multiplexing multiple DMX streams over your network using unicast or multicast UDP packets. The 6-port bridge currently only supports multicast streams. This makes it simpler to configure but has drawbacks in very large configurations (10's of streams). E1.31 can support 64K worth of DMX streams or 'universes' so it has a virtually unlimited amount of expansion available.

The 6-port bridge can handle up to six E1.31 universes, each of which get directed to a particular port. By default the bridge is configured to send universe '1' to port number 1, universe '2' to port number 2 and so on but you can assign any of the 64k universe numbers to any port if you wish. The bridge takes in the particular universe stream and either outputs it directly out each port for DMX output or it performs a conversion to Renard protocol. The protocol used depends of course on what you plan to use for controllers on the ports that you have configured. You can configure any mix of DMX and Renard protocols to any port.

The bridge has another feature so that each physical output can be re-wired to support with a "standard" DMX RJ-45 output or a Renard output without resorting to making custom cables to support either. The output of the bridge is always RS-485 in either case. Note that regardless if your Renard controller is running standard Renard/Serial code or Renard/DMX code, the jumpers should always be configured for Renard since the physical interface does not change.

==How does the 6 Port E1.31 Bridge work?==

As mentioned above, the bridge takes in a multicast E1.31 UDP stream, determines which stream belongs to which port (if any) and sends that data out the appropriate port. The E1.31 stream enters the bridge via an Ethernet port on the Wiz820io module and is converted to a serial signal that is sent on to the Propeller microcontroller chip. Your sequencer or streaming tool sends multicast packets with an address of 239.255.<UHB>.<ULB> where UHB is the Universe high byte and LHB is the Universe low byte. As an example, the address for universe '1' would be 239.255.0.1. This is why using multicast addressing can be simpler to configure since this address is always the same for any device using that universe. The disadvantage of using multicast is that the packets are sent to every device on the subnet regardless if they are destined for it or not. This means the receiving device must read in the header for each packet or have the means to block these within hardware. Depending on the device and the number of universes of data sent it can swamp the device and possibly end up causing a loss of data. Note however that this is not an issue for most networks until you get into the dozens of universes so it's not an issue for most users.

Unicast is another method of sending E1.31 packets. For this method, the IP address used to manage/configure the device is also used for the data packets. In this case, the packets are sent directly to the device instead of being broadcast across the entire subnet.

The Parallax Propeller microcontroller determines if the address matches one of the configured ports universe numbers and if it does, reads in the entire DMX stream and sends them out that particular port either as-is or after conversion to Renard protocol. The Propeller chip is quite powerful, it is essentially eight separate microcontrollers in a single package. These internal processors or COGs as they are called can each run completely different (or the same) code. This allows you to partition different functions to different COGs within your code. If a COG is not used, it does not use any resources which allows you to run the others faster. For more information on the Propeller, visit the Parallax site.

For the bridge, the COGs are used to support both the multiple input processing as well as the six port output processing.

==Revision History==

==6 Port E1.31 Bridge Parts==
In addition to the [http://www.diyledexpress.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=22&products_id=158 PCB], you will need the following components:

<table border="1"><tr><td>'''Mouser BOM'''</td></tr>
<tr><td>Mouser PN</td><td>Description</td><td>Qty</td></tr>
</table>

[http://www.mouser.com:80/ Click here for Mouser Direct Project BOM]

The BOM is available from [http://www.diyledexpress.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=22&products_id=157 DIYLEDExpress.com] 

==Building the 6 Port E1.31 Bridge==

The 6 Port E1.31 Bridge requires a fair bit of soldering so take your time and ensure you
install the components in the correct orientation when required. Start by sorting
the components by type and values. Look over the PCB before starting noting the
location of the various components. Follow the standard procedure of installing
the lowest profile parts first and ending up with the tallest.

[[File:E1_31Bridge.png]]

# Install the 0.1uF (100nF) capacitors C4-C12.
# Install the 220 Ohm resistors R1-R3.
# Install the 120 Ohm resistors R4-R9.
# Install the 10K Ohm resistors R10-R12
# Install the 5Mhz Crystal X1.
# Install the Toggle Switches S1-S2.
# Install the seven 8 Pin IC sockets and one 40 pin socket.
# Install the green LED LED1.
# Install the red LEDs LED2-LED3.
# Install the 3.3V Regulator VR2 with the heat sink.
# Install the 3 Pin and 4 Pin headers JP1, H1.
# Install the two WizNet 1x6 pin headers.
# Install the twelve 2x3 output pin selectors.
# Install the power terminal block TB1.
# Install the three 47uF Capacitors C1-C3.
# Install the DC-DC Converter VR1.
# Install the six RJ45 jacks J1-J6.
# Install the six RT485BN in IC3-IC8 with the notches facing the edge with the power terminal block.
# Install the EEPROM in IC2 with the notch facing the edge with the power terminal block.
# Install the Propeller in IC1 with the notch facing the WizNet adapter.
# Install the WizNet adapter with the socket facing the Propeller IC.

H2 and IC9 will be unpopulated as these are both for future expansion.

Congratulations! That completes the construction of the 6 Port E1.31 Bridge!

==Jumpers==

There are two types of jumper groups on the E1.31 bridge. The first is to set the input voltage and the others to set the desired DMX or Renard physical output.

====Power Jumper - JP1====
This jumper is used if you are supplying either a well regulated +5v or unregulated +7-24v. If you apply +5vdc to the terminal block, you should put the jumper on the "EXT" setting (indicating you are getting 5v externally). If you apply +7-24vdc, you should put the jumper on the "INT" setting (indicating you are getting 5v internally via the 5v regulator).

You '''MUST''' ensure you have this jumper set correctly if you are using voltages greater than 5v as it may (and probably will) cause permanent damage to some components on the board. The Propeller chip uses 3.3v and would be fine but the RS-485 transceivers are 5v devices and would be probably be damaged.

====Output Configuration Jumpers====
Each port has a set of four separate jumpers. If you want a DMX output, you need to put all four jumpers to the "DMX" side. If you want a Renard output, you need to put all four jumpers to the "REN" side. It is important that all four jumpers are in the same position for that port. Note that the protocol for the port is different than the wired output.

When configured for '''DMX''', the output would be:
 Pin 1 - RS-485 D+
 Pin 2 - RS-485 D-
 Pin 7 - Signal Ground
 Pin 8 - No Connection
 Pins 3, 4, 5, and 6 have no connection.

When configured for '''REN''', the output would be:
 Pin 1 - Signal Ground
 Pin 2 - Signal Ground
 Pin 4 - RS-485 D-
 Pin 5 - RS-495 D+
 Pins 3, 6, 7 and 8 have no connection.

You can use the bridge to drive LOR controllers capable of supporting DMX as well. The simplest method is to configure the protocol for DMX and the REN output. You will be required to swap pins 4 and 5 however as LOR has these signals swapped. You may also want to connect pin 6 from the LOR to pins 1 or 2 if using the REN output.

==Powering the E1.31 Bridge==
As mentioned above, the bridge can be powered with either a well regulated +5vdc supply or an unregulated/regulated +7-24vdc supply. The power supply should supply at least XXX mA (dlovely to supply). Configure the power jumper appropriately before applying power.

==Initial Testing==

==Programming the EEPROM==
Current version of the firmware is v2.03 and you can download it [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=16732&d=1354385180 here].

The Programming port on the Bridge is the 4 pin header near the WizNet adapter. Match up the silk screen labels with those on the Prop Plug. You will need to externally power the bridge when programming it. 

===Programming Tools Required===
'''The reccomended way is to use the PropPlug.''' 
====PropPlug====
[[File:PropPlug.jpg]] 
You can get it from [http://www.diyledexpress.com DIYLEDExpress] during Pre-Sales or find it at [http://www.parallax.com/Store/Microcontrollers/PropellerTools/tabid/143/CategoryID/19/List/0/SortField/0/Level/a/ProductID/398/Default.aspx Parallax] or [http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Parallax/32201/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMt7FrWooXVB14dwtuxqLs8Y Mouser] anytime.
====Build your own====
[[File:SerialToPropeller.jpg]]

===Programming Howto===

* Download the [http://www.parallax.com/Portals/0/Downloads/sw/propeller/Setup-Propeller-Tool-v1.3.2.zip Parallax Propeller Tool] and install it.
* Run the Propeller Tool application and it will ask of you want to associate .eeprom files with the application, Say Yes.
* You can close the Propeller Tool application and double click on the .eeprom file you downloaded or from within the application go to File->Open and change the 'Files of type' to 'Propeller Applications' and open the Bridge_v2.02.eeprom file.
* A 'Object Info' screen will open, if not already enabled click 'Show Hex'
* Program the EEPROM on the Bridge by selecting 'Load EEPROM' and you are done.

==Configuring and installing the E1.31 Driver==
http://doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=E1.31_Vixen_Plugin

==Configuration Commands==

===Save===
'''SAve''' n where n is a memory page number from 0 to 7. Writes the currently displayed configuration to the specified memory page

===Load===
'''LOad''' n where n is a memory page number, 0-7. Loads the specified memory page and displays the information on the web page.

===Boot===
'''BOot''' 999 will restart the system. Make sure you do a SAVE first if you have made any changes or your changes will be lost!

===IP===
'''IP''' a.b.c.d where a.b.c.d is any valid IPv4 address. This should be set within the same subnet as your sequencer PC Ethernet port unless you have routing enabled (not recommended). It is recommended that you have your show network on a separate subnet from your regular home network. This ensures you will not have issues with either interfering with the other. Note that this address is only used to configure/monitor the bridge - it is not used for the sequencer data itself.

===Subnet===
'''SUbnet''' a.b.c.d or '''SUbnet''' n where a.b.c.d is any valid subnet mask value, or n is the size of the subnet in bits.

===Gateway===
'''GAteway''' a.b.c.d where a.b.c.d is any valid internet address. Usually the address of your router.

===DNS===
'''DNs''' a.b.c.d where a.b.c.d is any valid internet address. Usually the address of your router.
 
If you are only using DHCP (not recommended), you can leave the static IP areas unused.
Network addressing (static or DHCP IP) is only needed to access the configuration
page with a web browser. Once configured, no IP address is needed for normal operation.
The Default IP Mode, Web Server Mode, No Data Timeout, and Test Pattern commands affect
what happens when the system starts up.

===Default===
'''DEfault''' n where n is 0 or 1. DE 0 sets a default network mode of STATIC, DE 1 sets a default network mode of DHCP.

===Universe===
'''UNiverse''' b n Where b is the RJ45 output jack number, from 1 to 6 and n is universe from 1 to 63999.

===Protocol===
The Protocol command is used to set the protocol for each of the six output RJ45 jacks. The current valid protocols are DMX and RENARD. 
'''PRotocol''' b n Where b is the RJ45 output jack number, from 1 to 6 and n is 1 for DMX protocol and 2 is for Renard protocol.

===Baud===
The Baud command is used to set the baud rate for each of the four output RJ45 jacks.
NOTE: This command is only used for the Renard protocol. Baud rate will not be displayed when
the DMX protocol is selected. 
'''BAud''' b n Where b is the RJ45 output jack number, from 1 to 6
and n is 1 for a baud rate of 57,600 or 2 is for a baud rate of 115,200.
The Renard protocol refresh rate at 57,600bps for 512 channels is approximately 90ms and at
115,200bps the refresh rate for 512 channels is approximately 45ms.
The DMX protocol refresh rate is preset to 25ms.

==TroubleShooting==
So - you've built your new 6 Port E1.31 Bridge, connected it up to your computer and tried a quick sequence and nothing happens! There are several checks to perform in order:

===Visual Inspection===
The very first step involves a close visual inspection of the board. Double check that you have the correct component in the correct location and in the correct orientation. Look at every single solder connection and if some are not shiny or look suspect - reflow them to be sure.
===Power===

===EEPROM Programming===

===Communications===
====Output Configuration====
====Network Configuration====

==FAQ==

----
--[[User:Dlovely|Dlovely]] ([[User talk:Dlovely|talk]]) 11:47, 29 November 2012 (EST)

E1.31 Bridge

2013-03-23T06:51:19Z

Budude: /* Powering the E1.31 Bridge */

'''This is a work in progress!!!!'''

----

=6 Port E1.31 Bridge Construction Manual=

==''What'' is the 6 Port E1.31 Bridge?==
The 6-port E1.31 bridge is a device that takes in an E1.31 stream from your network and converts (or 'bridges') that to multiple DMX or Renard output streams. E1.31 or sACN (Streaming Architecture for Control Networks) is method of multiplexing multiple DMX streams over your network using unicast or multicast UDP packets. The 6-port bridge currently only supports multicast streams. This makes it simpler to configure but has drawbacks in very large configurations (10's of streams). E1.31 can support 64K worth of DMX streams or 'universes' so it has a virtually unlimited amount of expansion available.

The 6-port bridge can handle up to six E1.31 universes, each of which get directed to a particular port. By default the bridge is configured to send universe '1' to port number 1, universe '2' to port number 2 and so on but you can assign any of the 64k universe numbers to any port if you wish. The bridge takes in the particular universe stream and either outputs it directly out each port for DMX output or it performs a conversion to Renard protocol. The protocol used depends of course on what you plan to use for controllers on the ports that you have configured. You can configure any mix of DMX and Renard protocols to any port.

The bridge has another feature so that each physical output can be re-wired to support with a "standard" DMX RJ-45 output or a Renard output without resorting to making custom cables to support either. The output of the bridge is always RS-485 in either case. Note that regardless if your Renard controller is running standard Renard/Serial code or Renard/DMX code, the jumpers should always be configured for Renard since the physical interface does not change.

==How does the 6 Port E1.31 Bridge work?==

As mentioned above, the bridge takes in a multicast E1.31 UDP stream, determines which stream belongs to which port (if any) and sends that data out the appropriate port. The E1.31 stream enters the bridge via an Ethernet port on the Wiz820io module and is converted to a serial signal that is sent on to the Propeller microcontroller chip. Your sequencer or streaming tool sends multicast packets with an address of 239.255.<UHB>.<ULB> where UHB is the Universe high byte and LHB is the Universe low byte. As an example, the address for universe '1' would be 239.255.0.1. This is why using multicast addressing can be simpler to configure since this address is always the same for any device using that universe. The disadvantage of using multicast is that the packets are sent to every device on the subnet regardless if they are destined for it or not. This means the receiving device must read in the header for each packet or have the means to block these within hardware. Depending on the device and the number of universes of data sent it can swamp the device and possibly end up causing a loss of data. Note however that this is not an issue for most networks until you get into the dozens of universes so it's not an issue for most users.

Unicast is another method of sending E1.31 packets. For this method, the IP address used to manage/configure the device is also used for the data packets. In this case, the packets are sent directly to the device instead of being broadcast across the entire subnet.

The Parallax Propeller microcontroller determines if the address matches one of the configured ports universe numbers and if it does, reads in the entire DMX stream and sends them out that particular port either as-is or after conversion to Renard protocol. The Propeller chip is quite powerful, it is essentially eight separate microcontrollers in a single package. These internal processors or COGs as they are called can each run completely different (or the same) code. This allows you to partition different functions to different COGs within your code. If a COG is not used, it does not use any resources which allows you to run the others faster. For more information on the Propeller, visit the Parallax site.

For the bridge, the COGs are used to support both the multiple input processing as well as the six port output processing.

==Revision History==

==6 Port E1.31 Bridge Parts==
In addition to the [http://www.diyledexpress.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=22&products_id=158 PCB], you will need the following components:

<table border="1"><tr><td>'''Mouser BOM'''</td></tr>
<tr><td>Mouser PN</td><td>Description</td><td>Qty</td></tr>
</table>

[http://www.mouser.com:80/ Click here for Mouser Direct Project BOM]

The BOM is available from [http://www.diyledexpress.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=22&products_id=157 DIYLEDExpress.com] 

==Building the 6 Port E1.31 Bridge==

The 6 Port E1.31 Bridge requires a fair bit of soldering so take your time and ensure you
install the components in the correct orientation when required. Start by sorting
the components by type and values. Look over the PCB before starting noting the
location of the various components. Follow the standard procedure of installing
the lowest profile parts first and ending up with the tallest.

[[File:E1_31Bridge.png]]

# Install the 0.1uF (100nF) capacitors C4-C12.
# Install the 220 Ohm resistors R1-R3.
# Install the 120 Ohm resistors R4-R9.
# Install the 10K Ohm resistors R10-R12
# Install the 5Mhz Crystal X1.
# Install the Toggle Switches S1-S2.
# Install the seven 8 Pin IC sockets and one 40 pin socket.
# Install the green LED LED1.
# Install the red LEDs LED2-LED3.
# Install the 3.3V Regulator VR2 with the heat sink.
# Install the 3 Pin and 4 Pin headers JP1, H1.
# Install the two WizNet 1x6 pin headers.
# Install the twelve 2x3 output pin selectors.
# Install the power terminal block TB1.
# Install the three 47uF Capacitors C1-C3.
# Install the DC-DC Converter VR1.
# Install the six RJ45 jacks J1-J6.
# Install the six RT485BN in IC3-IC8 with the notches facing the edge with the power terminal block.
# Install the EEPROM in IC2 with the notch facing the edge with the power terminal block.
# Install the Propeller in IC1 with the notch facing the WizNet adapter.
# Install the WizNet adapter with the socket facing the Propeller IC.

H2 and IC9 will be unpopulated as these are both for future expansion.

Congratulations! That completes the construction of the 6 Port E1.31 Bridge!

==Jumpers==

There are two types of jumper groups on the E1.31 bridge. The first is to set the input voltage and the others to set the desired DMX or Renard physical output.

====Power Jumper - JP1====
This jumper is used if you are supplying either a well regulated +5v or unregulated +7-24v. If you apply +5vdc to the terminal block, you should put the jumper on the "EXT" setting (indicating you are getting 5v externally). If you apply +7-24vdc, you should put the jumper on the "INT" setting (indicating you are getting 5v internally via the 5v regulator).

You '''MUST''' ensure you have this jumper set correctly if you are using voltages greater than 5v as it may (and probably will) cause permanent damage to some components on the board. The Propeller chip uses 3.3v and would be fine but the RS-485 transceivers are 5v devices and would be probably be damaged.

====Output Configuration Jumpers====
Each port has a set of four separate jumpers. If you want a DMX output, you need to put all four jumpers to the "DMX" side. If you want a Renard output, you need to put all four jumpers to the "REN" side. It is important that all four jumpers are in the same position for that port. Note that the protocol for the port is different than the wired output.

When configured for '''DMX''', the output would be:
 Pin 1 - RS-485 D+
 Pin 2 - RS-485 D-
 Pin 7 - Signal Ground
 Pin 8 - No Connection
 Pins 3, 4, 5, and 6 have no connection.

When configured for '''REN''', the output would be:
 Pin 1 - Signal Ground
 Pin 2 - Signal Ground
 Pin 4 - RS-485 D-
 Pin 5 - RS-495 D+
 Pins 3, 6, 7 and 8 have no connection.

You can use the bridge to drive LOR controllers capable of supporting DMX as well. The simplest method is to configure the protocol for DMX and the REN output. You will be required to swap pins 4 and 5 however as LOR has these signals swapped. You may also want to connect pin 6 from the LOR to pins 1 or 2 if using the REN output.

==Powering the E1.31 Bridge==
As mentioned above, the bridge can be powered with either a well regulated +5vdc supply or an unregulated/regulated +7-24vdc supply. The power supply should supply at least XXX mA (dlovely to supply). Configure the power jumper appropriately before applying power.

==Initial Testing==

==Programming the EEPROM==
Current version of the firmware is v2.03 and you can download it [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=16732&d=1354385180 here].

The Programming port on the Bridge is the 4 pin header near the WizNet adapter. Match up the silk screen labels with those on the Prop Plug. You will need to externally power the bridge when programming it. 

===Programming Tools Required===
'''The reccomended way is to use the PropPlug.''' 
====PropPlug====
[[File:PropPlug.jpg]] 
You can get it from [http://www.diyledexpress.com DIYLEDExpress] during Pre-Sales or find it at [http://www.parallax.com/Store/Microcontrollers/PropellerTools/tabid/143/CategoryID/19/List/0/SortField/0/Level/a/ProductID/398/Default.aspx Parallax] or [http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Parallax/32201/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMt7FrWooXVB14dwtuxqLs8Y Mouser] anytime.
====Build your own====
[[File:SerialToPropeller.jpg]]

===Programming Howto===

* Download the [http://www.parallax.com/Portals/0/Downloads/sw/propeller/Setup-Propeller-Tool-v1.3.2.zip Parallax Propeller Tool] and install it.
* Run the Propeller Tool application and it will ask of you want to associate .eeprom files with the application, Say Yes.
* You can close the Propeller Tool application and double click on the .eeprom file you downloaded or from within the application go to File->Open and change the 'Files of type' to 'Propeller Applications' and open the Bridge_v2.02.eeprom file.
* A 'Object Info' screen will open, if not already enabled click 'Show Hex'
* Program the EEPROM on the Bridge by selecting 'Load EEPROM' and you are done.

==Configuring and installing the E1.31 Driver==
http://doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=E1.31_Vixen_Plugin

==Configuration Commands==

===Save===
'''SAve''' n where n is a memory page number from 0 to 7. Writes the currently displayed configuration to the specified memory page

===Load===
'''LOad''' n where n is a memory page number, 0-7. Loads the specified memory page and displays the information on the web page.

===Boot===
'''BOot''' 999 will restart the system. Make sure you do a SAVE first if you have made any changes or your changes will be lost!

===IP===
'''IP''' a.b.c.d where a.b.c.d is any valid IP address

===Subnet===
'''SUbnet''' a.b.c.d or '''SUbnet''' n where a.b.c.d is any valid subnet mask value, or n is the size of the subnet in bits.

===Gateway===
'''GAteway''' a.b.c.d where a.b.c.d is any valid internet address. Usually the address of your router.

===DNS===
'''DNs''' a.b.c.d where a.b.c.d is any valid internet address. Usually the address of your router.
 
If you are only using DHCP (not recommended), you can leave the static IP areas unused.
Network addressing (static or DHCP IP) is only needed to access the configuration
page with a web browser. Once configured, no IP address is needed for normal operation.
The Default IP Mode, Web Server Mode, No Data Timeout, and Test Pattern commands affect
what happens when the system starts up.

===Default===
'''DEfault''' n where n is 0 or 1. DE 0 sets a default network mode of STATIC, DE 1 sets a default network mode of DHCP.

===Universe===
'''UNiverse''' b n Where b is the RJ45 output jack number, from 1 to 6 and n is universe from 1 to 63999.

===Protocol===
The Protocol command is used to set the protocol for each of the six output RJ45 jacks. The current valid protocols are DMX and RENARD. 
'''PRotocol''' b n Where b is the RJ45 output jack number, from 1 to 6 and n is 1 for DMX protocol and 2 is for Renard protocol.

===Baud===
The Baud command is used to set the baud rate for each of the four output RJ45 jacks.
NOTE: This command is only used for the Renard protocol. Baud rate will not be displayed when
the DMX protocol is selected. 
'''BAud''' b n Where b is the RJ45 output jack number, from 1 to 6
and n is 1 for a baud rate of 57,600 or 2 is for a baud rate of 115,200.
The Renard protocol refresh rate at 57,600bps for 512 channels is approximately 90ms and at
115,200bps the refresh rate for 512 channels is approximately 45ms.
The DMX protocol refresh rate is preset to 25ms.

==TroubleShooting==
So - you've built your new 6 Port E1.31 Bridge, connected it up to your computer and tried a quick sequence and nothing happens! There are several checks to perform in order:

===Visual Inspection===
The very first step involves a close visual inspection of the board. Double check that you have the correct component in the correct location and in the correct orientation. Look at every single solder connection and if some are not shiny or look suspect - reflow them to be sure.
===Power===

===EEPROM Programming===

===Communications===
====Output Configuration====
====Network Configuration====

==FAQ==

----
--[[User:Dlovely|Dlovely]] ([[User talk:Dlovely|talk]]) 11:47, 29 November 2012 (EST)

E1.31 Bridge

2013-03-23T06:49:44Z

Budude: /* Output Configuration Jumpers */

'''This is a work in progress!!!!'''

----

=6 Port E1.31 Bridge Construction Manual=

==''What'' is the 6 Port E1.31 Bridge?==
The 6-port E1.31 bridge is a device that takes in an E1.31 stream from your network and converts (or 'bridges') that to multiple DMX or Renard output streams. E1.31 or sACN (Streaming Architecture for Control Networks) is method of multiplexing multiple DMX streams over your network using unicast or multicast UDP packets. The 6-port bridge currently only supports multicast streams. This makes it simpler to configure but has drawbacks in very large configurations (10's of streams). E1.31 can support 64K worth of DMX streams or 'universes' so it has a virtually unlimited amount of expansion available.

The 6-port bridge can handle up to six E1.31 universes, each of which get directed to a particular port. By default the bridge is configured to send universe '1' to port number 1, universe '2' to port number 2 and so on but you can assign any of the 64k universe numbers to any port if you wish. The bridge takes in the particular universe stream and either outputs it directly out each port for DMX output or it performs a conversion to Renard protocol. The protocol used depends of course on what you plan to use for controllers on the ports that you have configured. You can configure any mix of DMX and Renard protocols to any port.

The bridge has another feature so that each physical output can be re-wired to support with a "standard" DMX RJ-45 output or a Renard output without resorting to making custom cables to support either. The output of the bridge is always RS-485 in either case. Note that regardless if your Renard controller is running standard Renard/Serial code or Renard/DMX code, the jumpers should always be configured for Renard since the physical interface does not change.

==How does the 6 Port E1.31 Bridge work?==

As mentioned above, the bridge takes in a multicast E1.31 UDP stream, determines which stream belongs to which port (if any) and sends that data out the appropriate port. The E1.31 stream enters the bridge via an Ethernet port on the Wiz820io module and is converted to a serial signal that is sent on to the Propeller microcontroller chip. Your sequencer or streaming tool sends multicast packets with an address of 239.255.<UHB>.<ULB> where UHB is the Universe high byte and LHB is the Universe low byte. As an example, the address for universe '1' would be 239.255.0.1. This is why using multicast addressing can be simpler to configure since this address is always the same for any device using that universe. The disadvantage of using multicast is that the packets are sent to every device on the subnet regardless if they are destined for it or not. This means the receiving device must read in the header for each packet or have the means to block these within hardware. Depending on the device and the number of universes of data sent it can swamp the device and possibly end up causing a loss of data. Note however that this is not an issue for most networks until you get into the dozens of universes so it's not an issue for most users.

Unicast is another method of sending E1.31 packets. For this method, the IP address used to manage/configure the device is also used for the data packets. In this case, the packets are sent directly to the device instead of being broadcast across the entire subnet.

The Parallax Propeller microcontroller determines if the address matches one of the configured ports universe numbers and if it does, reads in the entire DMX stream and sends them out that particular port either as-is or after conversion to Renard protocol. The Propeller chip is quite powerful, it is essentially eight separate microcontrollers in a single package. These internal processors or COGs as they are called can each run completely different (or the same) code. This allows you to partition different functions to different COGs within your code. If a COG is not used, it does not use any resources which allows you to run the others faster. For more information on the Propeller, visit the Parallax site.

For the bridge, the COGs are used to support both the multiple input processing as well as the six port output processing.

==Revision History==

==6 Port E1.31 Bridge Parts==
In addition to the [http://www.diyledexpress.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=22&products_id=158 PCB], you will need the following components:

<table border="1"><tr><td>'''Mouser BOM'''</td></tr>
<tr><td>Mouser PN</td><td>Description</td><td>Qty</td></tr>
</table>

[http://www.mouser.com:80/ Click here for Mouser Direct Project BOM]

The BOM is available from [http://www.diyledexpress.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=22&products_id=157 DIYLEDExpress.com] 

==Building the 6 Port E1.31 Bridge==

The 6 Port E1.31 Bridge requires a fair bit of soldering so take your time and ensure you
install the components in the correct orientation when required. Start by sorting
the components by type and values. Look over the PCB before starting noting the
location of the various components. Follow the standard procedure of installing
the lowest profile parts first and ending up with the tallest.

[[File:E1_31Bridge.png]]

# Install the 0.1uF (100nF) capacitors C4-C12.
# Install the 220 Ohm resistors R1-R3.
# Install the 120 Ohm resistors R4-R9.
# Install the 10K Ohm resistors R10-R12
# Install the 5Mhz Crystal X1.
# Install the Toggle Switches S1-S2.
# Install the seven 8 Pin IC sockets and one 40 pin socket.
# Install the green LED LED1.
# Install the red LEDs LED2-LED3.
# Install the 3.3V Regulator VR2 with the heat sink.
# Install the 3 Pin and 4 Pin headers JP1, H1.
# Install the two WizNet 1x6 pin headers.
# Install the twelve 2x3 output pin selectors.
# Install the power terminal block TB1.
# Install the three 47uF Capacitors C1-C3.
# Install the DC-DC Converter VR1.
# Install the six RJ45 jacks J1-J6.
# Install the six RT485BN in IC3-IC8 with the notches facing the edge with the power terminal block.
# Install the EEPROM in IC2 with the notch facing the edge with the power terminal block.
# Install the Propeller in IC1 with the notch facing the WizNet adapter.
# Install the WizNet adapter with the socket facing the Propeller IC.

H2 and IC9 will be unpopulated as these are both for future expansion.

Congratulations! That completes the construction of the 6 Port E1.31 Bridge!

==Jumpers==

There are two types of jumper groups on the E1.31 bridge. The first is to set the input voltage and the others to set the desired DMX or Renard physical output.

====Power Jumper - JP1====
This jumper is used if you are supplying either a well regulated +5v or unregulated +7-24v. If you apply +5vdc to the terminal block, you should put the jumper on the "EXT" setting (indicating you are getting 5v externally). If you apply +7-24vdc, you should put the jumper on the "INT" setting (indicating you are getting 5v internally via the 5v regulator).

You '''MUST''' ensure you have this jumper set correctly if you are using voltages greater than 5v as it may (and probably will) cause permanent damage to some components on the board. The Propeller chip uses 3.3v and would be fine but the RS-485 transceivers are 5v devices and would be probably be damaged.

====Output Configuration Jumpers====
Each port has a set of four separate jumpers. If you want a DMX output, you need to put all four jumpers to the "DMX" side. If you want a Renard output, you need to put all four jumpers to the "REN" side. It is important that all four jumpers are in the same position for that port. Note that the protocol for the port is different than the wired output.

When configured for '''DMX''', the output would be:
 Pin 1 - RS-485 D+
 Pin 2 - RS-485 D-
 Pin 7 - Signal Ground
 Pin 8 - No Connection
 Pins 3, 4, 5, and 6 have no connection.

When configured for '''REN''', the output would be:
 Pin 1 - Signal Ground
 Pin 2 - Signal Ground
 Pin 4 - RS-485 D-
 Pin 5 - RS-495 D+
 Pins 3, 6, 7 and 8 have no connection.

You can use the bridge to drive LOR controllers capable of supporting DMX as well. The simplest method is to configure the protocol for DMX and the REN output. You will be required to swap pins 4 and 5 however as LOR has these signals swapped. You may also want to connect pin 6 from the LOR to pins 1 or 2 if using the REN output.

==Powering the E1.31 Bridge==
As mentioned above, the bridge can be powered with either a well regulated +5vdc supply or an unregulated/regulated +7-24vdc supply. The power supply should supply at least XXX mA (dlovely to supply). Configure the power jumper appropriate before applying power.

==Initial Testing==

==Programming the EEPROM==
Current version of the firmware is v2.03 and you can download it [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=16732&d=1354385180 here].

The Programming port on the Bridge is the 4 pin header near the WizNet adapter. Match up the silk screen labels with those on the Prop Plug. You will need to externally power the bridge when programming it. 

===Programming Tools Required===
'''The reccomended way is to use the PropPlug.''' 
====PropPlug====
[[File:PropPlug.jpg]] 
You can get it from [http://www.diyledexpress.com DIYLEDExpress] during Pre-Sales or find it at [http://www.parallax.com/Store/Microcontrollers/PropellerTools/tabid/143/CategoryID/19/List/0/SortField/0/Level/a/ProductID/398/Default.aspx Parallax] or [http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Parallax/32201/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMt7FrWooXVB14dwtuxqLs8Y Mouser] anytime.
====Build your own====
[[File:SerialToPropeller.jpg]]

===Programming Howto===

* Download the [http://www.parallax.com/Portals/0/Downloads/sw/propeller/Setup-Propeller-Tool-v1.3.2.zip Parallax Propeller Tool] and install it.
* Run the Propeller Tool application and it will ask of you want to associate .eeprom files with the application, Say Yes.
* You can close the Propeller Tool application and double click on the .eeprom file you downloaded or from within the application go to File->Open and change the 'Files of type' to 'Propeller Applications' and open the Bridge_v2.02.eeprom file.
* A 'Object Info' screen will open, if not already enabled click 'Show Hex'
* Program the EEPROM on the Bridge by selecting 'Load EEPROM' and you are done.

==Configuring and installing the E1.31 Driver==
http://doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=E1.31_Vixen_Plugin

==Configuration Commands==

===Save===
'''SAve''' n where n is a memory page number from 0 to 7. Writes the currently displayed configuration to the specified memory page

===Load===
'''LOad''' n where n is a memory page number, 0-7. Loads the specified memory page and displays the information on the web page.

===Boot===
'''BOot''' 999 will restart the system. Make sure you do a SAVE first if you have made any changes or your changes will be lost!

===IP===
'''IP''' a.b.c.d where a.b.c.d is any valid IP address

===Subnet===
'''SUbnet''' a.b.c.d or '''SUbnet''' n where a.b.c.d is any valid subnet mask value, or n is the size of the subnet in bits.

===Gateway===
'''GAteway''' a.b.c.d where a.b.c.d is any valid internet address. Usually the address of your router.

===DNS===
'''DNs''' a.b.c.d where a.b.c.d is any valid internet address. Usually the address of your router.
 
If you are only using DHCP (not recommended), you can leave the static IP areas unused.
Network addressing (static or DHCP IP) is only needed to access the configuration
page with a web browser. Once configured, no IP address is needed for normal operation.
The Default IP Mode, Web Server Mode, No Data Timeout, and Test Pattern commands affect
what happens when the system starts up.

===Default===
'''DEfault''' n where n is 0 or 1. DE 0 sets a default network mode of STATIC, DE 1 sets a default network mode of DHCP.

===Universe===
'''UNiverse''' b n Where b is the RJ45 output jack number, from 1 to 6 and n is universe from 1 to 63999.

===Protocol===
The Protocol command is used to set the protocol for each of the six output RJ45 jacks. The current valid protocols are DMX and RENARD. 
'''PRotocol''' b n Where b is the RJ45 output jack number, from 1 to 6 and n is 1 for DMX protocol and 2 is for Renard protocol.

===Baud===
The Baud command is used to set the baud rate for each of the four output RJ45 jacks.
NOTE: This command is only used for the Renard protocol. Baud rate will not be displayed when
the DMX protocol is selected. 
'''BAud''' b n Where b is the RJ45 output jack number, from 1 to 6
and n is 1 for a baud rate of 57,600 or 2 is for a baud rate of 115,200.
The Renard protocol refresh rate at 57,600bps for 512 channels is approximately 90ms and at
115,200bps the refresh rate for 512 channels is approximately 45ms.
The DMX protocol refresh rate is preset to 25ms.

==TroubleShooting==
So - you've built your new 6 Port E1.31 Bridge, connected it up to your computer and tried a quick sequence and nothing happens! There are several checks to perform in order:

===Visual Inspection===
The very first step involves a close visual inspection of the board. Double check that you have the correct component in the correct location and in the correct orientation. Look at every single solder connection and if some are not shiny or look suspect - reflow them to be sure.
===Power===

===EEPROM Programming===

===Communications===
====Output Configuration====
====Network Configuration====

==FAQ==

----
--[[User:Dlovely|Dlovely]] ([[User talk:Dlovely|talk]]) 11:47, 29 November 2012 (EST)

E1.31 Bridge

2013-03-23T06:46:06Z

Budude: /* Powering the E1.31 Bridge */

'''This is a work in progress!!!!'''

----

=6 Port E1.31 Bridge Construction Manual=

==''What'' is the 6 Port E1.31 Bridge?==
The 6-port E1.31 bridge is a device that takes in an E1.31 stream from your network and converts (or 'bridges') that to multiple DMX or Renard output streams. E1.31 or sACN (Streaming Architecture for Control Networks) is method of multiplexing multiple DMX streams over your network using unicast or multicast UDP packets. The 6-port bridge currently only supports multicast streams. This makes it simpler to configure but has drawbacks in very large configurations (10's of streams). E1.31 can support 64K worth of DMX streams or 'universes' so it has a virtually unlimited amount of expansion available.

The 6-port bridge can handle up to six E1.31 universes, each of which get directed to a particular port. By default the bridge is configured to send universe '1' to port number 1, universe '2' to port number 2 and so on but you can assign any of the 64k universe numbers to any port if you wish. The bridge takes in the particular universe stream and either outputs it directly out each port for DMX output or it performs a conversion to Renard protocol. The protocol used depends of course on what you plan to use for controllers on the ports that you have configured. You can configure any mix of DMX and Renard protocols to any port.

The bridge has another feature so that each physical output can be re-wired to support with a "standard" DMX RJ-45 output or a Renard output without resorting to making custom cables to support either. The output of the bridge is always RS-485 in either case. Note that regardless if your Renard controller is running standard Renard/Serial code or Renard/DMX code, the jumpers should always be configured for Renard since the physical interface does not change.

==How does the 6 Port E1.31 Bridge work?==

As mentioned above, the bridge takes in a multicast E1.31 UDP stream, determines which stream belongs to which port (if any) and sends that data out the appropriate port. The E1.31 stream enters the bridge via an Ethernet port on the Wiz820io module and is converted to a serial signal that is sent on to the Propeller microcontroller chip. Your sequencer or streaming tool sends multicast packets with an address of 239.255.<UHB>.<ULB> where UHB is the Universe high byte and LHB is the Universe low byte. As an example, the address for universe '1' would be 239.255.0.1. This is why using multicast addressing can be simpler to configure since this address is always the same for any device using that universe. The disadvantage of using multicast is that the packets are sent to every device on the subnet regardless if they are destined for it or not. This means the receiving device must read in the header for each packet or have the means to block these within hardware. Depending on the device and the number of universes of data sent it can swamp the device and possibly end up causing a loss of data. Note however that this is not an issue for most networks until you get into the dozens of universes so it's not an issue for most users.

Unicast is another method of sending E1.31 packets. For this method, the IP address used to manage/configure the device is also used for the data packets. In this case, the packets are sent directly to the device instead of being broadcast across the entire subnet.

The Parallax Propeller microcontroller determines if the address matches one of the configured ports universe numbers and if it does, reads in the entire DMX stream and sends them out that particular port either as-is or after conversion to Renard protocol. The Propeller chip is quite powerful, it is essentially eight separate microcontrollers in a single package. These internal processors or COGs as they are called can each run completely different (or the same) code. This allows you to partition different functions to different COGs within your code. If a COG is not used, it does not use any resources which allows you to run the others faster. For more information on the Propeller, visit the Parallax site.

For the bridge, the COGs are used to support both the multiple input processing as well as the six port output processing.

==Revision History==

==6 Port E1.31 Bridge Parts==
In addition to the [http://www.diyledexpress.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=22&products_id=158 PCB], you will need the following components:

<table border="1"><tr><td>'''Mouser BOM'''</td></tr>
<tr><td>Mouser PN</td><td>Description</td><td>Qty</td></tr>
</table>

[http://www.mouser.com:80/ Click here for Mouser Direct Project BOM]

The BOM is available from [http://www.diyledexpress.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=22&products_id=157 DIYLEDExpress.com] 

==Building the 6 Port E1.31 Bridge==

The 6 Port E1.31 Bridge requires a fair bit of soldering so take your time and ensure you
install the components in the correct orientation when required. Start by sorting
the components by type and values. Look over the PCB before starting noting the
location of the various components. Follow the standard procedure of installing
the lowest profile parts first and ending up with the tallest.

[[File:E1_31Bridge.png]]

# Install the 0.1uF (100nF) capacitors C4-C12.
# Install the 220 Ohm resistors R1-R3.
# Install the 120 Ohm resistors R4-R9.
# Install the 10K Ohm resistors R10-R12
# Install the 5Mhz Crystal X1.
# Install the Toggle Switches S1-S2.
# Install the seven 8 Pin IC sockets and one 40 pin socket.
# Install the green LED LED1.
# Install the red LEDs LED2-LED3.
# Install the 3.3V Regulator VR2 with the heat sink.
# Install the 3 Pin and 4 Pin headers JP1, H1.
# Install the two WizNet 1x6 pin headers.
# Install the twelve 2x3 output pin selectors.
# Install the power terminal block TB1.
# Install the three 47uF Capacitors C1-C3.
# Install the DC-DC Converter VR1.
# Install the six RJ45 jacks J1-J6.
# Install the six RT485BN in IC3-IC8 with the notches facing the edge with the power terminal block.
# Install the EEPROM in IC2 with the notch facing the edge with the power terminal block.
# Install the Propeller in IC1 with the notch facing the WizNet adapter.
# Install the WizNet adapter with the socket facing the Propeller IC.

H2 and IC9 will be unpopulated as these are both for future expansion.

Congratulations! That completes the construction of the 6 Port E1.31 Bridge!

==Jumpers==

There are two types of jumper groups on the E1.31 bridge. The first is to set the input voltage and the others to set the desired DMX or Renard physical output.

====Power Jumper - JP1====
This jumper is used if you are supplying either a well regulated +5v or unregulated +7-24v. If you apply +5vdc to the terminal block, you should put the jumper on the "EXT" setting (indicating you are getting 5v externally). If you apply +7-24vdc, you should put the jumper on the "INT" setting (indicating you are getting 5v internally via the 5v regulator).

You '''MUST''' ensure you have this jumper set correctly if you are using voltages greater than 5v as it may (and probably will) cause permanent damage to some components on the board. The Propeller chip uses 3.3v and would be fine but the RS-485 transceivers are 5v devices and would be probably be damaged.

====Output Configuration Jumpers====
Each port has a set of four separate jumpers. If you want a DMX output, you need to put all four jumpers to the "DMX" side. If you want a Renard output, you need to put all four jumpers to the "REN" side. It is important that all four jumpers are in the same position for that port.

When configured for '''DMX''', the output would be:
 Pin 1 - RS-485 D+
 Pin 2 - RS-485 D-
 Pin 7 - Signal Ground
 Pin 8 - No Connection
 Pins 3, 4, 5, and 6 have no connection.

When configured for '''REN''', the output would be:
 Pin 1 - Signal Ground
 Pin 2 - Signal Ground
 Pin 4 - RS-485 D-
 Pin 5 - RS-495 D+
 Pins 3, 6, 7 and 8 have no connection.

==Powering the E1.31 Bridge==
As mentioned above, the bridge can be powered with either a well regulated +5vdc supply or an unregulated/regulated +7-24vdc supply. The power supply should supply at least XXX mA (dlovely to supply). Configure the power jumper appropriate before applying power.

==Initial Testing==

==Programming the EEPROM==
Current version of the firmware is v2.03 and you can download it [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=16732&d=1354385180 here].

The Programming port on the Bridge is the 4 pin header near the WizNet adapter. Match up the silk screen labels with those on the Prop Plug. You will need to externally power the bridge when programming it. 

===Programming Tools Required===
'''The reccomended way is to use the PropPlug.''' 
====PropPlug====
[[File:PropPlug.jpg]] 
You can get it from [http://www.diyledexpress.com DIYLEDExpress] during Pre-Sales or find it at [http://www.parallax.com/Store/Microcontrollers/PropellerTools/tabid/143/CategoryID/19/List/0/SortField/0/Level/a/ProductID/398/Default.aspx Parallax] or [http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Parallax/32201/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMt7FrWooXVB14dwtuxqLs8Y Mouser] anytime.
====Build your own====
[[File:SerialToPropeller.jpg]]

===Programming Howto===

* Download the [http://www.parallax.com/Portals/0/Downloads/sw/propeller/Setup-Propeller-Tool-v1.3.2.zip Parallax Propeller Tool] and install it.
* Run the Propeller Tool application and it will ask of you want to associate .eeprom files with the application, Say Yes.
* You can close the Propeller Tool application and double click on the .eeprom file you downloaded or from within the application go to File->Open and change the 'Files of type' to 'Propeller Applications' and open the Bridge_v2.02.eeprom file.
* A 'Object Info' screen will open, if not already enabled click 'Show Hex'
* Program the EEPROM on the Bridge by selecting 'Load EEPROM' and you are done.

==Configuring and installing the E1.31 Driver==
http://doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=E1.31_Vixen_Plugin

==Configuration Commands==

===Save===
'''SAve''' n where n is a memory page number from 0 to 7. Writes the currently displayed configuration to the specified memory page

===Load===
'''LOad''' n where n is a memory page number, 0-7. Loads the specified memory page and displays the information on the web page.

===Boot===
'''BOot''' 999 will restart the system. Make sure you do a SAVE first if you have made any changes or your changes will be lost!

===IP===
'''IP''' a.b.c.d where a.b.c.d is any valid IP address

===Subnet===
'''SUbnet''' a.b.c.d or '''SUbnet''' n where a.b.c.d is any valid subnet mask value, or n is the size of the subnet in bits.

===Gateway===
'''GAteway''' a.b.c.d where a.b.c.d is any valid internet address. Usually the address of your router.

===DNS===
'''DNs''' a.b.c.d where a.b.c.d is any valid internet address. Usually the address of your router.
 
If you are only using DHCP (not recommended), you can leave the static IP areas unused.
Network addressing (static or DHCP IP) is only needed to access the configuration
page with a web browser. Once configured, no IP address is needed for normal operation.
The Default IP Mode, Web Server Mode, No Data Timeout, and Test Pattern commands affect
what happens when the system starts up.

===Default===
'''DEfault''' n where n is 0 or 1. DE 0 sets a default network mode of STATIC, DE 1 sets a default network mode of DHCP.

===Universe===
'''UNiverse''' b n Where b is the RJ45 output jack number, from 1 to 6 and n is universe from 1 to 63999.

===Protocol===
The Protocol command is used to set the protocol for each of the six output RJ45 jacks. The current valid protocols are DMX and RENARD. 
'''PRotocol''' b n Where b is the RJ45 output jack number, from 1 to 6 and n is 1 for DMX protocol and 2 is for Renard protocol.

===Baud===
The Baud command is used to set the baud rate for each of the four output RJ45 jacks.
NOTE: This command is only used for the Renard protocol. Baud rate will not be displayed when
the DMX protocol is selected. 
'''BAud''' b n Where b is the RJ45 output jack number, from 1 to 6
and n is 1 for a baud rate of 57,600 or 2 is for a baud rate of 115,200.
The Renard protocol refresh rate at 57,600bps for 512 channels is approximately 90ms and at
115,200bps the refresh rate for 512 channels is approximately 45ms.
The DMX protocol refresh rate is preset to 25ms.

==TroubleShooting==
So - you've built your new 6 Port E1.31 Bridge, connected it up to your computer and tried a quick sequence and nothing happens! There are several checks to perform in order:

===Visual Inspection===
The very first step involves a close visual inspection of the board. Double check that you have the correct component in the correct location and in the correct orientation. Look at every single solder connection and if some are not shiny or look suspect - reflow them to be sure.
===Power===

===EEPROM Programming===

===Communications===
====Output Configuration====
====Network Configuration====

==FAQ==

----
--[[User:Dlovely|Dlovely]] ([[User talk:Dlovely|talk]]) 11:47, 29 November 2012 (EST)

E1.31 Bridge

2013-03-23T06:36:14Z

Budude: /* Power Jumper - JP1 */

'''This is a work in progress!!!!'''

----

=6 Port E1.31 Bridge Construction Manual=

==''What'' is the 6 Port E1.31 Bridge?==
The 6-port E1.31 bridge is a device that takes in an E1.31 stream from your network and converts (or 'bridges') that to multiple DMX or Renard output streams. E1.31 or sACN (Streaming Architecture for Control Networks) is method of multiplexing multiple DMX streams over your network using unicast or multicast UDP packets. The 6-port bridge currently only supports multicast streams. This makes it simpler to configure but has drawbacks in very large configurations (10's of streams). E1.31 can support 64K worth of DMX streams or 'universes' so it has a virtually unlimited amount of expansion available.

The 6-port bridge can handle up to six E1.31 universes, each of which get directed to a particular port. By default the bridge is configured to send universe '1' to port number 1, universe '2' to port number 2 and so on but you can assign any of the 64k universe numbers to any port if you wish. The bridge takes in the particular universe stream and either outputs it directly out each port for DMX output or it performs a conversion to Renard protocol. The protocol used depends of course on what you plan to use for controllers on the ports that you have configured. You can configure any mix of DMX and Renard protocols to any port.

The bridge has another feature so that each physical output can be re-wired to support with a "standard" DMX RJ-45 output or a Renard output without resorting to making custom cables to support either. The output of the bridge is always RS-485 in either case. Note that regardless if your Renard controller is running standard Renard/Serial code or Renard/DMX code, the jumpers should always be configured for Renard since the physical interface does not change.

==How does the 6 Port E1.31 Bridge work?==

As mentioned above, the bridge takes in a multicast E1.31 UDP stream, determines which stream belongs to which port (if any) and sends that data out the appropriate port. The E1.31 stream enters the bridge via an Ethernet port on the Wiz820io module and is converted to a serial signal that is sent on to the Propeller microcontroller chip. Your sequencer or streaming tool sends multicast packets with an address of 239.255.<UHB>.<ULB> where UHB is the Universe high byte and LHB is the Universe low byte. As an example, the address for universe '1' would be 239.255.0.1. This is why using multicast addressing can be simpler to configure since this address is always the same for any device using that universe. The disadvantage of using multicast is that the packets are sent to every device on the subnet regardless if they are destined for it or not. This means the receiving device must read in the header for each packet or have the means to block these within hardware. Depending on the device and the number of universes of data sent it can swamp the device and possibly end up causing a loss of data. Note however that this is not an issue for most networks until you get into the dozens of universes so it's not an issue for most users.

Unicast is another method of sending E1.31 packets. For this method, the IP address used to manage/configure the device is also used for the data packets. In this case, the packets are sent directly to the device instead of being broadcast across the entire subnet.

The Parallax Propeller microcontroller determines if the address matches one of the configured ports universe numbers and if it does, reads in the entire DMX stream and sends them out that particular port either as-is or after conversion to Renard protocol. The Propeller chip is quite powerful, it is essentially eight separate microcontrollers in a single package. These internal processors or COGs as they are called can each run completely different (or the same) code. This allows you to partition different functions to different COGs within your code. If a COG is not used, it does not use any resources which allows you to run the others faster. For more information on the Propeller, visit the Parallax site.

For the bridge, the COGs are used to support both the multiple input processing as well as the six port output processing.

==Revision History==

==6 Port E1.31 Bridge Parts==
In addition to the [http://www.diyledexpress.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=22&products_id=158 PCB], you will need the following components:

<table border="1"><tr><td>'''Mouser BOM'''</td></tr>
<tr><td>Mouser PN</td><td>Description</td><td>Qty</td></tr>
</table>

[http://www.mouser.com:80/ Click here for Mouser Direct Project BOM]

The BOM is available from [http://www.diyledexpress.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=22&products_id=157 DIYLEDExpress.com] 

==Building the 6 Port E1.31 Bridge==

The 6 Port E1.31 Bridge requires a fair bit of soldering so take your time and ensure you
install the components in the correct orientation when required. Start by sorting
the components by type and values. Look over the PCB before starting noting the
location of the various components. Follow the standard procedure of installing
the lowest profile parts first and ending up with the tallest.

[[File:E1_31Bridge.png]]

# Install the 0.1uF (100nF) capacitors C4-C12.
# Install the 220 Ohm resistors R1-R3.
# Install the 120 Ohm resistors R4-R9.
# Install the 10K Ohm resistors R10-R12
# Install the 5Mhz Crystal X1.
# Install the Toggle Switches S1-S2.
# Install the seven 8 Pin IC sockets and one 40 pin socket.
# Install the green LED LED1.
# Install the red LEDs LED2-LED3.
# Install the 3.3V Regulator VR2 with the heat sink.
# Install the 3 Pin and 4 Pin headers JP1, H1.
# Install the two WizNet 1x6 pin headers.
# Install the twelve 2x3 output pin selectors.
# Install the power terminal block TB1.
# Install the three 47uF Capacitors C1-C3.
# Install the DC-DC Converter VR1.
# Install the six RJ45 jacks J1-J6.
# Install the six RT485BN in IC3-IC8 with the notches facing the edge with the power terminal block.
# Install the EEPROM in IC2 with the notch facing the edge with the power terminal block.
# Install the Propeller in IC1 with the notch facing the WizNet adapter.
# Install the WizNet adapter with the socket facing the Propeller IC.

H2 and IC9 will be unpopulated as these are both for future expansion.

Congratulations! That completes the construction of the 6 Port E1.31 Bridge!

==Jumpers==

There are two types of jumper groups on the E1.31 bridge. The first is to set the input voltage and the others to set the desired DMX or Renard physical output.

====Power Jumper - JP1====
This jumper is used if you are supplying either a well regulated +5v or unregulated +7-24v. If you apply +5vdc to the terminal block, you should put the jumper on the "EXT" setting (indicating you are getting 5v externally). If you apply +7-24vdc, you should put the jumper on the "INT" setting (indicating you are getting 5v internally via the 5v regulator).

You '''MUST''' ensure you have this jumper set correctly if you are using voltages greater than 5v as it may (and probably will) cause permanent damage to some components on the board. The Propeller chip uses 3.3v and would be fine but the RS-485 transceivers are 5v devices and would be probably be damaged.

====Output Configuration Jumpers====
Each port has a set of four separate jumpers. If you want a DMX output, you need to put all four jumpers to the "DMX" side. If you want a Renard output, you need to put all four jumpers to the "REN" side. It is important that all four jumpers are in the same position for that port.

When configured for '''DMX''', the output would be:
 Pin 1 - RS-485 D+
 Pin 2 - RS-485 D-
 Pin 7 - Signal Ground
 Pin 8 - No Connection
 Pins 3, 4, 5, and 6 have no connection.

When configured for '''REN''', the output would be:
 Pin 1 - Signal Ground
 Pin 2 - Signal Ground
 Pin 4 - RS-485 D-
 Pin 5 - RS-495 D+
 Pins 3, 6, 7 and 8 have no connection.

==Powering the E1.31 Bridge==

==Initial Testing==

==Programming the EEPROM==
Current version of the firmware is v2.03 and you can download it [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=16732&d=1354385180 here].

The Programming port on the Bridge is the 4 pin header near the WizNet adapter. Match up the silk screen labels with those on the Prop Plug. You will need to externally power the bridge when programming it. 

===Programming Tools Required===
'''The reccomended way is to use the PropPlug.''' 
====PropPlug====
[[File:PropPlug.jpg]] 
You can get it from [http://www.diyledexpress.com DIYLEDExpress] during Pre-Sales or find it at [http://www.parallax.com/Store/Microcontrollers/PropellerTools/tabid/143/CategoryID/19/List/0/SortField/0/Level/a/ProductID/398/Default.aspx Parallax] or [http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Parallax/32201/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMt7FrWooXVB14dwtuxqLs8Y Mouser] anytime.
====Build your own====
[[File:SerialToPropeller.jpg]]

===Programming Howto===

* Download the [http://www.parallax.com/Portals/0/Downloads/sw/propeller/Setup-Propeller-Tool-v1.3.2.zip Parallax Propeller Tool] and install it.
* Run the Propeller Tool application and it will ask of you want to associate .eeprom files with the application, Say Yes.
* You can close the Propeller Tool application and double click on the .eeprom file you downloaded or from within the application go to File->Open and change the 'Files of type' to 'Propeller Applications' and open the Bridge_v2.02.eeprom file.
* A 'Object Info' screen will open, if not already enabled click 'Show Hex'
* Program the EEPROM on the Bridge by selecting 'Load EEPROM' and you are done.

==Configuring and installing the E1.31 Driver==
http://doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=E1.31_Vixen_Plugin

==Configuration Commands==

===Save===
'''SAve''' n where n is a memory page number from 0 to 7. Writes the currently displayed configuration to the specified memory page

===Load===
'''LOad''' n where n is a memory page number, 0-7. Loads the specified memory page and displays the information on the web page.

===Boot===
'''BOot''' 999 will restart the system. Make sure you do a SAVE first if you have made any changes or your changes will be lost!

===IP===
'''IP''' a.b.c.d where a.b.c.d is any valid IP address

===Subnet===
'''SUbnet''' a.b.c.d or '''SUbnet''' n where a.b.c.d is any valid subnet mask value, or n is the size of the subnet in bits.

===Gateway===
'''GAteway''' a.b.c.d where a.b.c.d is any valid internet address. Usually the address of your router.

===DNS===
'''DNs''' a.b.c.d where a.b.c.d is any valid internet address. Usually the address of your router.
 
If you are only using DHCP (not recommended), you can leave the static IP areas unused.
Network addressing (static or DHCP IP) is only needed to access the configuration
page with a web browser. Once configured, no IP address is needed for normal operation.
The Default IP Mode, Web Server Mode, No Data Timeout, and Test Pattern commands affect
what happens when the system starts up.

===Default===
'''DEfault''' n where n is 0 or 1. DE 0 sets a default network mode of STATIC, DE 1 sets a default network mode of DHCP.

===Universe===
'''UNiverse''' b n Where b is the RJ45 output jack number, from 1 to 6 and n is universe from 1 to 63999.

===Protocol===
The Protocol command is used to set the protocol for each of the six output RJ45 jacks. The current valid protocols are DMX and RENARD. 
'''PRotocol''' b n Where b is the RJ45 output jack number, from 1 to 6 and n is 1 for DMX protocol and 2 is for Renard protocol.

===Baud===
The Baud command is used to set the baud rate for each of the four output RJ45 jacks.
NOTE: This command is only used for the Renard protocol. Baud rate will not be displayed when
the DMX protocol is selected. 
'''BAud''' b n Where b is the RJ45 output jack number, from 1 to 6
and n is 1 for a baud rate of 57,600 or 2 is for a baud rate of 115,200.
The Renard protocol refresh rate at 57,600bps for 512 channels is approximately 90ms and at
115,200bps the refresh rate for 512 channels is approximately 45ms.
The DMX protocol refresh rate is preset to 25ms.

==TroubleShooting==
So - you've built your new 6 Port E1.31 Bridge, connected it up to your computer and tried a quick sequence and nothing happens! There are several checks to perform in order:

===Visual Inspection===
The very first step involves a close visual inspection of the board. Double check that you have the correct component in the correct location and in the correct orientation. Look at every single solder connection and if some are not shiny or look suspect - reflow them to be sure.
===Power===

===EEPROM Programming===

===Communications===
====Output Configuration====
====Network Configuration====

==FAQ==

----
--[[User:Dlovely|Dlovely]] ([[User talk:Dlovely|talk]]) 11:47, 29 November 2012 (EST)

E1.31 Bridge

2013-03-23T06:35:18Z

Budude: /* Power Jumper - JP1 */

'''This is a work in progress!!!!'''

----

=6 Port E1.31 Bridge Construction Manual=

==''What'' is the 6 Port E1.31 Bridge?==
The 6-port E1.31 bridge is a device that takes in an E1.31 stream from your network and converts (or 'bridges') that to multiple DMX or Renard output streams. E1.31 or sACN (Streaming Architecture for Control Networks) is method of multiplexing multiple DMX streams over your network using unicast or multicast UDP packets. The 6-port bridge currently only supports multicast streams. This makes it simpler to configure but has drawbacks in very large configurations (10's of streams). E1.31 can support 64K worth of DMX streams or 'universes' so it has a virtually unlimited amount of expansion available.

The 6-port bridge can handle up to six E1.31 universes, each of which get directed to a particular port. By default the bridge is configured to send universe '1' to port number 1, universe '2' to port number 2 and so on but you can assign any of the 64k universe numbers to any port if you wish. The bridge takes in the particular universe stream and either outputs it directly out each port for DMX output or it performs a conversion to Renard protocol. The protocol used depends of course on what you plan to use for controllers on the ports that you have configured. You can configure any mix of DMX and Renard protocols to any port.

The bridge has another feature so that each physical output can be re-wired to support with a "standard" DMX RJ-45 output or a Renard output without resorting to making custom cables to support either. The output of the bridge is always RS-485 in either case. Note that regardless if your Renard controller is running standard Renard/Serial code or Renard/DMX code, the jumpers should always be configured for Renard since the physical interface does not change.

==How does the 6 Port E1.31 Bridge work?==

As mentioned above, the bridge takes in a multicast E1.31 UDP stream, determines which stream belongs to which port (if any) and sends that data out the appropriate port. The E1.31 stream enters the bridge via an Ethernet port on the Wiz820io module and is converted to a serial signal that is sent on to the Propeller microcontroller chip. Your sequencer or streaming tool sends multicast packets with an address of 239.255.<UHB>.<ULB> where UHB is the Universe high byte and LHB is the Universe low byte. As an example, the address for universe '1' would be 239.255.0.1. This is why using multicast addressing can be simpler to configure since this address is always the same for any device using that universe. The disadvantage of using multicast is that the packets are sent to every device on the subnet regardless if they are destined for it or not. This means the receiving device must read in the header for each packet or have the means to block these within hardware. Depending on the device and the number of universes of data sent it can swamp the device and possibly end up causing a loss of data. Note however that this is not an issue for most networks until you get into the dozens of universes so it's not an issue for most users.

Unicast is another method of sending E1.31 packets. For this method, the IP address used to manage/configure the device is also used for the data packets. In this case, the packets are sent directly to the device instead of being broadcast across the entire subnet.

The Parallax Propeller microcontroller determines if the address matches one of the configured ports universe numbers and if it does, reads in the entire DMX stream and sends them out that particular port either as-is or after conversion to Renard protocol. The Propeller chip is quite powerful, it is essentially eight separate microcontrollers in a single package. These internal processors or COGs as they are called can each run completely different (or the same) code. This allows you to partition different functions to different COGs within your code. If a COG is not used, it does not use any resources which allows you to run the others faster. For more information on the Propeller, visit the Parallax site.

For the bridge, the COGs are used to support both the multiple input processing as well as the six port output processing.

==Revision History==

==6 Port E1.31 Bridge Parts==
In addition to the [http://www.diyledexpress.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=22&products_id=158 PCB], you will need the following components:

<table border="1"><tr><td>'''Mouser BOM'''</td></tr>
<tr><td>Mouser PN</td><td>Description</td><td>Qty</td></tr>
</table>

[http://www.mouser.com:80/ Click here for Mouser Direct Project BOM]

The BOM is available from [http://www.diyledexpress.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=22&products_id=157 DIYLEDExpress.com] 

==Building the 6 Port E1.31 Bridge==

The 6 Port E1.31 Bridge requires a fair bit of soldering so take your time and ensure you
install the components in the correct orientation when required. Start by sorting
the components by type and values. Look over the PCB before starting noting the
location of the various components. Follow the standard procedure of installing
the lowest profile parts first and ending up with the tallest.

[[File:E1_31Bridge.png]]

# Install the 0.1uF (100nF) capacitors C4-C12.
# Install the 220 Ohm resistors R1-R3.
# Install the 120 Ohm resistors R4-R9.
# Install the 10K Ohm resistors R10-R12
# Install the 5Mhz Crystal X1.
# Install the Toggle Switches S1-S2.
# Install the seven 8 Pin IC sockets and one 40 pin socket.
# Install the green LED LED1.
# Install the red LEDs LED2-LED3.
# Install the 3.3V Regulator VR2 with the heat sink.
# Install the 3 Pin and 4 Pin headers JP1, H1.
# Install the two WizNet 1x6 pin headers.
# Install the twelve 2x3 output pin selectors.
# Install the power terminal block TB1.
# Install the three 47uF Capacitors C1-C3.
# Install the DC-DC Converter VR1.
# Install the six RJ45 jacks J1-J6.
# Install the six RT485BN in IC3-IC8 with the notches facing the edge with the power terminal block.
# Install the EEPROM in IC2 with the notch facing the edge with the power terminal block.
# Install the Propeller in IC1 with the notch facing the WizNet adapter.
# Install the WizNet adapter with the socket facing the Propeller IC.

H2 and IC9 will be unpopulated as these are both for future expansion.

Congratulations! That completes the construction of the 6 Port E1.31 Bridge!

==Jumpers==

There are two types of jumper groups on the E1.31 bridge. The first is to set the input voltage and the others to set the desired DMX or Renard physical output.

====Power Jumper - JP1====
This jumper is used if you are supplying either a well regulated +5v or unregulated +7-24v. If you apply +5vdc to the terminal block, you should put the jumper on the "EXT" setting (indicating you are getting 5v [[ext]]ernally). If you apply +7-24vdc, you should put the jumper on the "INT" setting (indicating you are getting 5v [[int]]ernally via the 5v regulator).

You '''MUST''' ensure you have this jumper set correctly if you are using voltages greater than 5v as it may (and probably will) cause permanent damage to some components on the board. The Propeller chip uses 3.3v and would be fine but the RS-485 transceivers are 5v devices and would be probably be damaged.

====Output Configuration Jumpers====
Each port has a set of four separate jumpers. If you want a DMX output, you need to put all four jumpers to the "DMX" side. If you want a Renard output, you need to put all four jumpers to the "REN" side. It is important that all four jumpers are in the same position for that port.

When configured for '''DMX''', the output would be:
 Pin 1 - RS-485 D+
 Pin 2 - RS-485 D-
 Pin 7 - Signal Ground
 Pin 8 - No Connection
 Pins 3, 4, 5, and 6 have no connection.

When configured for '''REN''', the output would be:
 Pin 1 - Signal Ground
 Pin 2 - Signal Ground
 Pin 4 - RS-485 D-
 Pin 5 - RS-495 D+
 Pins 3, 6, 7 and 8 have no connection.

==Powering the E1.31 Bridge==

==Initial Testing==

==Programming the EEPROM==
Current version of the firmware is v2.03 and you can download it [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=16732&d=1354385180 here].

The Programming port on the Bridge is the 4 pin header near the WizNet adapter. Match up the silk screen labels with those on the Prop Plug. You will need to externally power the bridge when programming it. 

===Programming Tools Required===
'''The reccomended way is to use the PropPlug.''' 
====PropPlug====
[[File:PropPlug.jpg]] 
You can get it from [http://www.diyledexpress.com DIYLEDExpress] during Pre-Sales or find it at [http://www.parallax.com/Store/Microcontrollers/PropellerTools/tabid/143/CategoryID/19/List/0/SortField/0/Level/a/ProductID/398/Default.aspx Parallax] or [http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Parallax/32201/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMt7FrWooXVB14dwtuxqLs8Y Mouser] anytime.
====Build your own====
[[File:SerialToPropeller.jpg]]

===Programming Howto===

* Download the [http://www.parallax.com/Portals/0/Downloads/sw/propeller/Setup-Propeller-Tool-v1.3.2.zip Parallax Propeller Tool] and install it.
* Run the Propeller Tool application and it will ask of you want to associate .eeprom files with the application, Say Yes.
* You can close the Propeller Tool application and double click on the .eeprom file you downloaded or from within the application go to File->Open and change the 'Files of type' to 'Propeller Applications' and open the Bridge_v2.02.eeprom file.
* A 'Object Info' screen will open, if not already enabled click 'Show Hex'
* Program the EEPROM on the Bridge by selecting 'Load EEPROM' and you are done.

==Configuring and installing the E1.31 Driver==
http://doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=E1.31_Vixen_Plugin

==Configuration Commands==

===Save===
'''SAve''' n where n is a memory page number from 0 to 7. Writes the currently displayed configuration to the specified memory page

===Load===
'''LOad''' n where n is a memory page number, 0-7. Loads the specified memory page and displays the information on the web page.

===Boot===
'''BOot''' 999 will restart the system. Make sure you do a SAVE first if you have made any changes or your changes will be lost!

===IP===
'''IP''' a.b.c.d where a.b.c.d is any valid IP address

===Subnet===
'''SUbnet''' a.b.c.d or '''SUbnet''' n where a.b.c.d is any valid subnet mask value, or n is the size of the subnet in bits.

===Gateway===
'''GAteway''' a.b.c.d where a.b.c.d is any valid internet address. Usually the address of your router.

===DNS===
'''DNs''' a.b.c.d where a.b.c.d is any valid internet address. Usually the address of your router.
 
If you are only using DHCP (not recommended), you can leave the static IP areas unused.
Network addressing (static or DHCP IP) is only needed to access the configuration
page with a web browser. Once configured, no IP address is needed for normal operation.
The Default IP Mode, Web Server Mode, No Data Timeout, and Test Pattern commands affect
what happens when the system starts up.

===Default===
'''DEfault''' n where n is 0 or 1. DE 0 sets a default network mode of STATIC, DE 1 sets a default network mode of DHCP.

===Universe===
'''UNiverse''' b n Where b is the RJ45 output jack number, from 1 to 6 and n is universe from 1 to 63999.

===Protocol===
The Protocol command is used to set the protocol for each of the six output RJ45 jacks. The current valid protocols are DMX and RENARD. 
'''PRotocol''' b n Where b is the RJ45 output jack number, from 1 to 6 and n is 1 for DMX protocol and 2 is for Renard protocol.

===Baud===
The Baud command is used to set the baud rate for each of the four output RJ45 jacks.
NOTE: This command is only used for the Renard protocol. Baud rate will not be displayed when
the DMX protocol is selected. 
'''BAud''' b n Where b is the RJ45 output jack number, from 1 to 6
and n is 1 for a baud rate of 57,600 or 2 is for a baud rate of 115,200.
The Renard protocol refresh rate at 57,600bps for 512 channels is approximately 90ms and at
115,200bps the refresh rate for 512 channels is approximately 45ms.
The DMX protocol refresh rate is preset to 25ms.

==TroubleShooting==
So - you've built your new 6 Port E1.31 Bridge, connected it up to your computer and tried a quick sequence and nothing happens! There are several checks to perform in order:

===Visual Inspection===
The very first step involves a close visual inspection of the board. Double check that you have the correct component in the correct location and in the correct orientation. Look at every single solder connection and if some are not shiny or look suspect - reflow them to be sure.
===Power===

===EEPROM Programming===

===Communications===
====Output Configuration====
====Network Configuration====

==FAQ==

----
--[[User:Dlovely|Dlovely]] ([[User talk:Dlovely|talk]]) 11:47, 29 November 2012 (EST)

E1.31 Bridge

2013-03-23T06:30:44Z

Budude: /* Jumpers */

'''This is a work in progress!!!!'''

----

=6 Port E1.31 Bridge Construction Manual=

==''What'' is the 6 Port E1.31 Bridge?==
The 6-port E1.31 bridge is a device that takes in an E1.31 stream from your network and converts (or 'bridges') that to multiple DMX or Renard output streams. E1.31 or sACN (Streaming Architecture for Control Networks) is method of multiplexing multiple DMX streams over your network using unicast or multicast UDP packets. The 6-port bridge currently only supports multicast streams. This makes it simpler to configure but has drawbacks in very large configurations (10's of streams). E1.31 can support 64K worth of DMX streams or 'universes' so it has a virtually unlimited amount of expansion available.

The 6-port bridge can handle up to six E1.31 universes, each of which get directed to a particular port. By default the bridge is configured to send universe '1' to port number 1, universe '2' to port number 2 and so on but you can assign any of the 64k universe numbers to any port if you wish. The bridge takes in the particular universe stream and either outputs it directly out each port for DMX output or it performs a conversion to Renard protocol. The protocol used depends of course on what you plan to use for controllers on the ports that you have configured. You can configure any mix of DMX and Renard protocols to any port.

The bridge has another feature so that each physical output can be re-wired to support with a "standard" DMX RJ-45 output or a Renard output without resorting to making custom cables to support either. The output of the bridge is always RS-485 in either case. Note that regardless if your Renard controller is running standard Renard/Serial code or Renard/DMX code, the jumpers should always be configured for Renard since the physical interface does not change.

==How does the 6 Port E1.31 Bridge work?==

As mentioned above, the bridge takes in a multicast E1.31 UDP stream, determines which stream belongs to which port (if any) and sends that data out the appropriate port. The E1.31 stream enters the bridge via an Ethernet port on the Wiz820io module and is converted to a serial signal that is sent on to the Propeller microcontroller chip. Your sequencer or streaming tool sends multicast packets with an address of 239.255.<UHB>.<ULB> where UHB is the Universe high byte and LHB is the Universe low byte. As an example, the address for universe '1' would be 239.255.0.1. This is why using multicast addressing can be simpler to configure since this address is always the same for any device using that universe. The disadvantage of using multicast is that the packets are sent to every device on the subnet regardless if they are destined for it or not. This means the receiving device must read in the header for each packet or have the means to block these within hardware. Depending on the device and the number of universes of data sent it can swamp the device and possibly end up causing a loss of data. Note however that this is not an issue for most networks until you get into the dozens of universes so it's not an issue for most users.

Unicast is another method of sending E1.31 packets. For this method, the IP address used to manage/configure the device is also used for the data packets. In this case, the packets are sent directly to the device instead of being broadcast across the entire subnet.

The Parallax Propeller microcontroller determines if the address matches one of the configured ports universe numbers and if it does, reads in the entire DMX stream and sends them out that particular port either as-is or after conversion to Renard protocol. The Propeller chip is quite powerful, it is essentially eight separate microcontrollers in a single package. These internal processors or COGs as they are called can each run completely different (or the same) code. This allows you to partition different functions to different COGs within your code. If a COG is not used, it does not use any resources which allows you to run the others faster. For more information on the Propeller, visit the Parallax site.

For the bridge, the COGs are used to support both the multiple input processing as well as the six port output processing.

==Revision History==

==6 Port E1.31 Bridge Parts==
In addition to the [http://www.diyledexpress.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=22&products_id=158 PCB], you will need the following components:

<table border="1"><tr><td>'''Mouser BOM'''</td></tr>
<tr><td>Mouser PN</td><td>Description</td><td>Qty</td></tr>
</table>

[http://www.mouser.com:80/ Click here for Mouser Direct Project BOM]

The BOM is available from [http://www.diyledexpress.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=22&products_id=157 DIYLEDExpress.com] 

==Building the 6 Port E1.31 Bridge==

The 6 Port E1.31 Bridge requires a fair bit of soldering so take your time and ensure you
install the components in the correct orientation when required. Start by sorting
the components by type and values. Look over the PCB before starting noting the
location of the various components. Follow the standard procedure of installing
the lowest profile parts first and ending up with the tallest.

[[File:E1_31Bridge.png]]

# Install the 0.1uF (100nF) capacitors C4-C12.
# Install the 220 Ohm resistors R1-R3.
# Install the 120 Ohm resistors R4-R9.
# Install the 10K Ohm resistors R10-R12
# Install the 5Mhz Crystal X1.
# Install the Toggle Switches S1-S2.
# Install the seven 8 Pin IC sockets and one 40 pin socket.
# Install the green LED LED1.
# Install the red LEDs LED2-LED3.
# Install the 3.3V Regulator VR2 with the heat sink.
# Install the 3 Pin and 4 Pin headers JP1, H1.
# Install the two WizNet 1x6 pin headers.
# Install the twelve 2x3 output pin selectors.
# Install the power terminal block TB1.
# Install the three 47uF Capacitors C1-C3.
# Install the DC-DC Converter VR1.
# Install the six RJ45 jacks J1-J6.
# Install the six RT485BN in IC3-IC8 with the notches facing the edge with the power terminal block.
# Install the EEPROM in IC2 with the notch facing the edge with the power terminal block.
# Install the Propeller in IC1 with the notch facing the WizNet adapter.
# Install the WizNet adapter with the socket facing the Propeller IC.

H2 and IC9 will be unpopulated as these are both for future expansion.

Congratulations! That completes the construction of the 6 Port E1.31 Bridge!

==Jumpers==

There are two types of jumper groups on the E1.31 bridge. The first is to set the input voltage and the others to set the desired DMX or Renard physical output.

====Power Jumper - JP1====
This jumper determines whether the power provided on the DC input terminal block goes directly to logic on the board or if it goes to the 5v voltage regulator and then to the 3.3v regulator. If you apply +5vdc to the terminal block, you should put the jumper on the "EXT" setting (indicates you are getting 5v externally). If you apply +7-24vdc, you should put the jumper on the "INT" setting (indicates you are getting 5v internally).

You '''MUST''' ensure you have this jumper set correctly if you are using voltages greater than 5v as it may (and probably will) cause permanent damage to some components on the board. The Propeller chip uses 3.3v but the RS-485 transceivers are 5v devices and would be probably be damaged.

====Output Configuration Jumpers====
Each port has a set of four separate jumpers. If you want a DMX output, you need to put all four jumpers to the "DMX" side. If you want a Renard output, you need to put all four jumpers to the "REN" side. It is important that all four jumpers are in the same position for that port.

When configured for '''DMX''', the output would be:
 Pin 1 - RS-485 D+
 Pin 2 - RS-485 D-
 Pin 7 - Signal Ground
 Pin 8 - No Connection
 Pins 3, 4, 5, and 6 have no connection.

When configured for '''REN''', the output would be:
 Pin 1 - Signal Ground
 Pin 2 - Signal Ground
 Pin 4 - RS-485 D-
 Pin 5 - RS-495 D+
 Pins 3, 6, 7 and 8 have no connection.

==Powering the E1.31 Bridge==

==Initial Testing==

==Programming the EEPROM==
Current version of the firmware is v2.03 and you can download it [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=16732&d=1354385180 here].

The Programming port on the Bridge is the 4 pin header near the WizNet adapter. Match up the silk screen labels with those on the Prop Plug. You will need to externally power the bridge when programming it. 

===Programming Tools Required===
'''The reccomended way is to use the PropPlug.''' 
====PropPlug====
[[File:PropPlug.jpg]] 
You can get it from [http://www.diyledexpress.com DIYLEDExpress] during Pre-Sales or find it at [http://www.parallax.com/Store/Microcontrollers/PropellerTools/tabid/143/CategoryID/19/List/0/SortField/0/Level/a/ProductID/398/Default.aspx Parallax] or [http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Parallax/32201/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMt7FrWooXVB14dwtuxqLs8Y Mouser] anytime.
====Build your own====
[[File:SerialToPropeller.jpg]]

===Programming Howto===

* Download the [http://www.parallax.com/Portals/0/Downloads/sw/propeller/Setup-Propeller-Tool-v1.3.2.zip Parallax Propeller Tool] and install it.
* Run the Propeller Tool application and it will ask of you want to associate .eeprom files with the application, Say Yes.
* You can close the Propeller Tool application and double click on the .eeprom file you downloaded or from within the application go to File->Open and change the 'Files of type' to 'Propeller Applications' and open the Bridge_v2.02.eeprom file.
* A 'Object Info' screen will open, if not already enabled click 'Show Hex'
* Program the EEPROM on the Bridge by selecting 'Load EEPROM' and you are done.

==Configuring and installing the E1.31 Driver==
http://doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=E1.31_Vixen_Plugin

==Configuration Commands==

===Save===
'''SAve''' n where n is a memory page number from 0 to 7. Writes the currently displayed configuration to the specified memory page

===Load===
'''LOad''' n where n is a memory page number, 0-7. Loads the specified memory page and displays the information on the web page.

===Boot===
'''BOot''' 999 will restart the system. Make sure you do a SAVE first if you have made any changes or your changes will be lost!

===IP===
'''IP''' a.b.c.d where a.b.c.d is any valid IP address

===Subnet===
'''SUbnet''' a.b.c.d or '''SUbnet''' n where a.b.c.d is any valid subnet mask value, or n is the size of the subnet in bits.

===Gateway===
'''GAteway''' a.b.c.d where a.b.c.d is any valid internet address. Usually the address of your router.

===DNS===
'''DNs''' a.b.c.d where a.b.c.d is any valid internet address. Usually the address of your router.
 
If you are only using DHCP (not recommended), you can leave the static IP areas unused.
Network addressing (static or DHCP IP) is only needed to access the configuration
page with a web browser. Once configured, no IP address is needed for normal operation.
The Default IP Mode, Web Server Mode, No Data Timeout, and Test Pattern commands affect
what happens when the system starts up.

===Default===
'''DEfault''' n where n is 0 or 1. DE 0 sets a default network mode of STATIC, DE 1 sets a default network mode of DHCP.

===Universe===
'''UNiverse''' b n Where b is the RJ45 output jack number, from 1 to 6 and n is universe from 1 to 63999.

===Protocol===
The Protocol command is used to set the protocol for each of the six output RJ45 jacks. The current valid protocols are DMX and RENARD. 
'''PRotocol''' b n Where b is the RJ45 output jack number, from 1 to 6 and n is 1 for DMX protocol and 2 is for Renard protocol.

===Baud===
The Baud command is used to set the baud rate for each of the four output RJ45 jacks.
NOTE: This command is only used for the Renard protocol. Baud rate will not be displayed when
the DMX protocol is selected. 
'''BAud''' b n Where b is the RJ45 output jack number, from 1 to 6
and n is 1 for a baud rate of 57,600 or 2 is for a baud rate of 115,200.
The Renard protocol refresh rate at 57,600bps for 512 channels is approximately 90ms and at
115,200bps the refresh rate for 512 channels is approximately 45ms.
The DMX protocol refresh rate is preset to 25ms.

==TroubleShooting==
So - you've built your new 6 Port E1.31 Bridge, connected it up to your computer and tried a quick sequence and nothing happens! There are several checks to perform in order:

===Visual Inspection===
The very first step involves a close visual inspection of the board. Double check that you have the correct component in the correct location and in the correct orientation. Look at every single solder connection and if some are not shiny or look suspect - reflow them to be sure.
===Power===

===EEPROM Programming===

===Communications===
====Output Configuration====
====Network Configuration====

==FAQ==

----
--[[User:Dlovely|Dlovely]] ([[User talk:Dlovely|talk]]) 11:47, 29 November 2012 (EST)

E1.31 Bridge

2013-03-23T06:01:09Z

Budude: /* How does the 6 Port E1.31 Bridge work? */

E1.31 Bridge

2013-03-23T05:06:24Z

Budude: /* What is the 6 Port E1.31 Bridge? */

E1.31 Bridge

2013-03-23T05:01:34Z

Budude: /* What is the 6 Port E1.31 Bridge? */

DCSSR Version 2.4

2013-01-23T18:44:01Z

Budude: /* Controlling the DCSSR Version 2.4 */

=DCSSR Version 2.4 - 4 Channel DC SSR - layout by Labrat=

[[File:DCSSR_2.4.png|300px]] 

==Disclaimers==
The standard disclaimers pertaining to the information contained on this wiki page are listed [[Disclaimers | here.]] 

==What is the DCSSR Version 2.4?==
The DCSSR Version 2.4 is a 4 channel DC SSR (Solid State Relay) used to switch medium/high current DC loads such as high power LEDS, Dumb RGB Strips, DC Floodlights, solenoids, etc. The DCSSR Version 2.4 is connected to a computer thru a controller and is directly connected to your dc load and dc power supply. The DCSSR is connected to a controller such as the [[Renard_64XC|Ren64XC]] or the [[Ren48LSDv3c|Ren48LSD]] to provide the signals necessary to turn the DCSSR on and off.
It is capable of controlling DC loads from 7 - 24V. Each channel is rated for 4A and the total load for all four channels combined is 10A. The original concept design was created by DIYC user [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/member.php?11-wjohn| John Wilson (wjohn)]. This version of the layout was designed by [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/member.php?3440-LabRat| Andrew Williams (LabRat)] of Ottawa, Canada, in the spring of 2012, with the intent to make a board that would fit inside the TA-200 enclosure.

==How does the DCSSR work?==
The DCSSR Version 2.4 was designed to be used primarily to drive medium/high current DC loads that require a higher current then can be provided by other DC units such as the stand alone REN48LSD. The design allow 4 channels to be switched on/off or dimmed by switching the N Channel Mosfets on and off which provides a ground to the devices connected to the respective channels. It provides a common V+ across all of the channels.

The DCSSR Version 2.4 uses an Optoisolator to isolate the controller from the DC loads being switched. The input signals come from the DC controller using ordinary Cat5 cable plugged in to the controller and the DCSSR Version 2.4. The power for the DC loads is connected to the DC In terminals near the top right of the board and the 4 channel of DC loads are connected to the terminals along the right side of the board. 

 

==Revision History==
The Version 2.4 is currently the most recent version of the DCSSR designed by Labrat in production.

Previous version (1.6) is detailed in the "Files Section" of the DIYC website.
[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/dynamics/showentry.php?e=36&catid=8| TA200 DCSSR Version 1.6]

For wjohn DCSSR Versions 1.0-1.3 look [[4_Channel_DCSSR_Assembly_Instructions | here]].

=DCSSR Version 2.4 Parts=

===PCB===

The PCB is available at [http://www.diyledexpress.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=13&products_id=71 DIYLEDExpress.com]

In addition to the PCB, you will need the following components:
===Mouser===
<table border="1">
<tr><td>Mouser PN</td><td>Description</td><td>Qty</td></tr>
<tr><td>534-3517</td><td>Fuseholders, Clips, & Hardware PC FUSE CLIP 5 MM</td><td>2</td></tr>
<tr><td>660-CF1/4C103J</td><td>Carbon Film Resistors - Through Hole 10Kohms 5%</td><td>4</td></tr>
<tr><td>80-C322C104Z5U</td><td>Multilayer Ceramic Capacitors (MLCC) - Leaded 50volts 0.1uF Z5U</td><td>2</td></tr>
<tr><td>512-LM78L05ACZX</td><td>Linear Regulators - Standard TO-92 .1A Pos Volt</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>660-CFS1/4CT52R471J</td><td>Carbon Film Resistors - Through Hole 470 OHM 5% 1/4W</td><td>4</td></tr>
<tr><td>660-CFS1/4CT52R681J</td><td>Carbon Film Resistors - Through Hole 680 OHM 5% 1/4W</td><td>4</td></tr>
<tr><td>782-K847PH</td><td>Transistor Output Optocouplers Phototransistor Out Quad CTR 50-600%</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>538-39890-0302 </td><td>Fixed Terminal Blocks 5.0MM ECONOMY 2P 14-24AWG</td><td>5</td></tr>
<tr><td>571-1-390261-4</td><td> IC & Component Sockets 16P ECONOMY TIN</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td> 512-FQPF13N06L</td><td>MOSFET 60V N-Channel QFET Logic Level</td><td>4</td></tr>
<tr><td>571-5556416-1</td><td>Ethernet & Telecom Connectors 8 PCB TOP ENTRY</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>604-WP7113ID</td><td>Standard LED - Through Hole HI EFF RED DIFFUSED</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>604-WP7113GD</td><td>Standard LED - Through Hole GREEN DIFFUSED</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td> 71-CCF071K00GKE36</td><td> Metal Film Resistors - Through Hole 1/4watt 1Kohms 2% Rated to 1/2watt</td><td>2</td></tr>
<tr><td>504-GMA-10</td><td>10A Fuse</td><td>1</td></tr>
</table> 

[http://www.mouser.com:80/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=972c658787 Click here for Mouser Direct Project BOM]

The BOM is available at [http://www.diyledexpress.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=13&products_id=70 DIYLEDExpress.com]

===Heatsink===
The design calls for a heatsink to be attached to the MOSFETS to provide maximum power handling capability. It may be purchased at [http://www.diyledexpress.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=74| www.diyledexpress.com] 

===Housing===
The DCSSR Version 2.4 was designed to fit in the [http://www.aflglobal.com/cmspages/bluekey/getfile.aspx?aliaspath=/productlist/Product-Lines/Optical-Connectivity---Apparatus/Terminal-Access-TA-200-205-Terminal-Enclosure/doc/TA-200-Terminal-Enclosure TA-200 Demarcation Enclosure] available from numerous vendors including [http://www.diyledexpress.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=16 DIYLEDExpress.com] 
[[File:TA-200.jpg|100px]] 

=Building the DCSSR Version 2.4=
==Assembly==

The DCSSR Version 2.4 is a simple device to assemble and test. It is easiest if you build the units by inserting the various components from smallest to tallest .

# Begin by inspecting the PCBs to look for any defects such as cracks or breaks. The holes on the board should be open on both sides. Then inspect and sort out the various parts for the board.
# Install the resistors:
## four 470 ohm resistors (yellow-violet-brown) in positions R1-R4 in the center of the board. The resistors are not polarized so they can go either way.
##:[[File:DCSSR2-4-Step-1.jpg|300px]]
## four 10K ohm resistors (brown-black-orange) in positions R5-R8 in the center of the board. The resistors are not polarized so they can go either way.
##:[[File:DCSSR2-4-Step-2.jpg|300px]]
## four 680 ohm resistors (blue-grey-brown) in positions R9-R12 on the left side of the board. The resistors are not polarized so they can go either way.
##:[[File:DCSSR2-4-Step-3.jpg|300px]]
## two 1K ohm resistors (brown-black-red) in positions R13-R14 on the top left and bottom left of the board. The resistors are not polarized so they can go either way.
##:[[File:DCSSR2-4-Step-4.jpg|300px]]
# Install the two 0.1 uF capacitors in positions C1-C2 on the bottom left of the board. The capacitors are not polarized so they can go either way.
#:[[File:DCSSR2-4-Step-5.jpg|300px]]
# Install the Install the 16 pin socket in the center of the board. Note that the notch faces the top of the board matching the silkscreen pattern on the PCB.
#:[[File:DCSSR2-4-Step-6.jpg|300px]]
# Install the light emitting diodes:
## Install the Green LED in the position marked Signal near the top of the board next to the RJ45 jack. Note that the LED is polarized and long lead should go towards the bottom of the board. (Note: silkscreen shows "FLAT" side of the LED, this can also be used to check for proper orientation)
## Insert the Red LED in the position marked Power near the bottom left of the board. Note that the LED is polarized and the long lead should face towards the top of the board.
##:[[File:DCSSR2-4-Step-7.jpg|300px]]
# Install the 5v linear regulator on the bottom left side of the board. Note that there are two sets of three holes. If you are using the small TO-92 package regulator listed in the BOM then the 7805 will use the holes closest to the caps. Note the regulator is polarized and the flat side should face left to match the orientation on the silkscreen. '''NOTE: IF YOU PLAN TO USE 5VDC LOADS, SEE THE [[DCSSR_Version_2.4#Design_Options| DESIGN OPTIONS SECTION BELOW]] BEFORE INSTALLING THE VOLTAGE REGULATOR.'''
#:[[File:DCSSR2-4-Step-8.jpg|300px]]
# Install the two fuse clips near the top center of the circuit board. It may be easier to put the fuse in then install them on the PCB to ensure they are installed in the correct direction and line up. Please note that fuse clips '''may''' be polarized. Examine them carefully, as they often have extra bends that should be placed on the outside end, to stop the fuse from slipping out. Be careful, the fuse holders require a fair amount of solder and heat to attach them. The FUSE should not be present when installing the clips, as the extra heat may melt the end of the fuse.
#:[[File:DCSSR2-4-Step-9.jpg|300px]] [[File:Fuse_Clip.png]]
# Connect the five 2 position screw terminal strips together by sliding the notches on the sides together. Next solder them to the circuit board with the wire opening side facing the right side of the board.
#:[[File:DCSSR2-4-Step-10.jpg|300px]]
# Install the 4 MOSFETs in the center of the board. It may be easier to attach them to the heat sink first using heatsink compound and screws and nuts, then soldering them to the PCB so they line up correctly. The MOSFETs are polarized and they should be installed with the tab facing the screw terminals.
#:[[File:DCSSR2-4-Step-11a.jpg|300px]][[File:DCSSR2-4-Step-11b.jpg|300px]]
# Install the RJ45 jack to the top left of the board. Gently align the eight wires with the matching holes and snap the connector to the board. Solder the connector to the circuit board being careful to not short out the connectors.
#:[[File:DCSSR2-4-Step-12.jpg|300px]]
# Install the fuse in the clips if it is not already there.
#:[[File:DCSSR2-4-Step-13.jpg|300px]]
# Gently install the Optoisolator in the socket making sure that the notch faces the top of the board , matching the silkscreen drawing.
# Inspect the board to look for any missing solder joints, solder bridges or cold solder joints.

Congratulations! That completes the construction of the DCSSR Version 2.4 ! 
[[File:DCSSR2-4-Final.jpg]]

==Final Testing==
Connect power to the DC IN terminals and the POWER LED should light. 
Connect the DCSSR Version 2.4 to the DC controller by connecting the RJ45 jacks between the two units. The SIGNAL LED should light. 
NOTE: THE SIGNAL LIGHT WILL NOT LIGHT IF THE DCSSR VERSION 2.4 IS PLUGGED INTO A REN48LSD 

==Mounting in Housing==
The DCSSR Version 2.4 PCB is designed with attachment holes for #4 sheet metal screws for direct mounting into the TA-200 Demarcation enclosure. However, the enclosure bosses are designed for a minimum #6 screw. In order to attach the PCB to the enclosure bosses, either fill the lower mounting holes in the enclosure with hot glue and use #4 screws, or expand the PCB mounting holes by drilling (such as a #16 drill (.177" diameter) and attach directly with #6 x 5/8" long screws. The upper bosses in the enclosure may need to be filed down to allow the PCB to sit flush depending on the trimming of the component leads on the bottom of the PCB.

Please note that the small hole in the lower corner of the board (nearest to the terminal block headers), is intended for use as a strain relief point. Place a small ''zip tie'' through this hole and around all incoming/outgoing cables, and tighten until ''snug''. This ensures that any accidental pulling on the cables won't jar the connectors loose from the terminal block headers.

=Power Requirements=
The DCSSR4 Version 2.4 can switch DC loads from 7-24VDC. The design provides local power for the optoisolator and the MOSFETs by using a local voltage regulator on the DC IN power. The voltage regulator does not work on the DC loads, so that any voltage applied to the DC IN terminals is fully available at the Output Terminals.

While the MOSFETs are capable of switching up to 10A each, the traces on the board cannot handle that much power. Each channel should be limited to 4 A and the total for all 4 channels should be limited to 10A. 

= Controlling the DCSSR Version 2.4 =
The DCSSR Version 2.4 requires a DC controller to be connected to its input for automated lighting. It can be driven by a variety of DC controllers. The [[Renard_64XC|Ren64XC]] and the [[Ren48LSDv3c|Ren48LSD]] are both configured to drive the DCSSR and have matching RJ45 jacks. If you are using the [[Ren48LSDv3c|Ren48LSD]] to drive your DCSSRs, you may need to change the resistors (9-13) from the controller to the optoisolator chip. The original design calls out a 680 ohm resistor which delivers 5mA across the optoisolator. Use the following table to determine which resistors to use:
 
* 5v - 680 ohm 1/8W or 1/4W
* 12v - 2000 ohm 1/8W or 1/4W
* 24v - 4300 ohm 1/4W
 
If you are driving an inductive DC load such as a solenoid,relay or a motor, you may want to add a [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flyback_diode Flyback Diode] such as a 1N4004 to provide extra protection to the MOSFET in the circuit.

The V+ is common for all four channels and the individual channels are controlled by switching the V- to ground. 

RJ45 controller inputs on the RJ45 jack should be as follows:

Pin 1 - +5v supply
Pin 2 - Channel 1 output
Pin 3 - +5v supply
Pin 4 - Channel 2 output
Pin 5 - reserved
Pin 6 - Channel 3 output
Pin 7 - LED (''signal'') ground
Pin 8 - Channel 4 output

=Schematic=
[[File:DCSSR2_4_schematic.pdf]]

=PCB=

[[File:DCSSR24.jpg|300px]] 

The PCB is available at [http://www.diyledexpress.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=13&products_id=71 DIYLEDExpress.com]

Gerbers are available in the FILE LIBRARY:
[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/dynamics/showentry.php?e=166&catid=8 DCSSR 2.4 Gerbers (zip archive)]

=Design Options=
If you want to drive 5.0V DC loads, you should omit the Voltage regulator and solder in a jumper between the two outer pins where the voltage regulator would go. You must use a well regulated DC voltage supply attached to the DC In power terminals. 

=Other Information=
TBD

==DCSSR Version 2.4 Discussion Threads==
TBD

==FAQ==
TBD 

[[Category:SSR]]
[[Category:DIYC Controllers]]
[[Category:DIYC Index]]

Ren48LSDv3c

2012-11-05T19:27:39Z

Budude: /* Ren48LSD (v3c) Parts */

=Ren48LSD (v3c) Construction Manual=

'''For information on the older version of this board (v3b) please go to [[Ren48LSD]].''' This page is for the v3c version of the board.

==''What'' is the Ren48LSD?==
The Ren48LSD ('''L'''ED '''S'''trip '''D'''river) controller came about as a solution to drive Frank's LED Super Strips. Originally I used [[DCSSR|DCSSRs]] to drive them and while it's a workable solution, it tends to be somewhat bulky and requires lots of additional wiring between the controller and DCSSRs as well as to the strips themselves. Another alternative is [[Renard 24LV|Frank's Ren24LV]] which uses ULN2803 drivers. The issue with this solution is that it has limitations in how much power it can sink to the strips due to the ULN2803 package power dissipation.

The strips require up to 360mA per output (18 LEDs x 20mA) so I used an NPN bipolar transistor to drive them. The transistors support up to 600mA maximum but should be limited to 400mA per output overall due to trace/connector maximums. The transistors are fairly cheap so it makes for a simple, inexpensive solution. The controller design used the [[The_Renard_SS24_Controller_Board|Ren24SS]] as a base, using the same PIC, clocking and serial interface configuration but expanded to 6 PICs to support 48 channels or driving up to 12 strips per board. Because of this, the controller supports standard [[Renard_Firmware#Regular_Firmware|Renard protocol FW]] using RS-232/485 as well as the [[Renard_Firmware#DMX_firmware|DMX]] version. The board requires either a 5vdc well regulated supply or a good 9-24vdc supply. The input supply also drives the LED strips.

'''For information on the previous version of this board (v3b) please go to [[Ren48LSD]].''' This page is for the v3c version of the board.

==How does the Ren48LSD work?==
The Ren48LSD uses the same architecture for the logic portions of the board from the RenardSS series of boards. Sequence information is passed from a PC running Vixen or other sequencing program via an RS-232 or RS-485/DMX interface. The ST485 chips receive this information and turn into standard TTL logic levels that the PIC can understand. The PIC reads in the data and if it determines that the information corresponds to itself, it updates the dimming levels of all 8 channels. It removes this information from the stream and feeds the rest out to the next PIC and that one performs the same. This is repeated for all 6 PICs. The last PIC, PIC 6, feeds what's left of the stream out to the other ST485 chip which translates it to RS-485 levels for the next controller in the line. It is important to realize that the information is removed from the stream and that the resultant leftover stream will have all of the data offset by the 48 channels of information used by the Ren48LSD. For example, if you have two Ren48LSDs, on Vixen you would configure a single Renard/DMX plug-in with 96 channels. The first Ren48LSD consumes the first 48 channels of information leaving only 48 channels on it's outputs. The second Ren48LSD will see this incoming data as controller #1 again and assume the data is for it. This is very much different than standard hard/soft-coded DMX or LOR devices that use a set address yet still pass on the entire stream to the next controller on the line. There are advantages and disadvantages to either approach - but you should be aware of this when combining normal DMX devices before/after a Ren48LSD (or any Renard controller running DMX code).

The PICs receive the data on pin 5 and after consuming their 8 channels of data, forward the rest out of pin 6 of the PIC which in turn goes to pin 5 of the next PIC. PIC #6 or the last PIC feeds the next controller if you have one attached as mentioned above. All of the PICs are fed the same clock from the external oscillator.

The logic portions of the board require a steady +5vdc supply. This can be supplied in two ways on the Ren48LSD. If you use a well-regulated +5vdc power supply, you skip installing all of the regulator circuitry and install a jumper across the +5vdc bypass connector. This will feed the power from the DC IN 1 jack directly to the logic components. Obviously care must be taken to ONLY use a 5vdc supply - if a 12v supply is connected in this configuration, you will probably lose all of your PICs, ST485 chips and the Oscillator in one shot. If you are planning to use a 9-24vdc supply then you must install the regulator circuitry. This allows the power supplied on the DC IN 1 connector to be converted down to +5vdc for the logic components. It is important to realize that the 5v created is only used by the logic components, it is NOT sent out to the outputs of the Ren48LSD. The outputs always follow whatever you place on DC IN 1 and DC IN 2. The two connectors are separated so it is possible to run different voltages on DC IN 1 and DC IN 2 (say 5v and 12v). Here again, extreme caution must be taken to ensure you do not mix up supplies or plug your device into the wrong outputs (say a 5v strip into a 12v output). In addition, you must ensure that the two power supplies will work harmoniously with a shared ground connection since the ground plane is shared between DC IN 1 and DC IN 2.

So - now that the PICs have the updated dimming levels for all of it's channels, it enables each of its outputs using PWM or Pulse Width Modulation. It is important to grasp that the voltage levels are not controlled - it is the amount of time on and off that is varied within a small cycle of time for each update. It seems logical that to dim things you would just change the voltage from 12v to 9v for example. Instead, the voltage is on at the full 12v for x amount of time and then it is off (0v) for the y amount of time - it is not something in-between. The cycle time is controlled by the PIC in the case of the Ren48LSD. In RenardSS boards, they use a Zero-Cross (ZC) signal which is created by an opto-isolator attached to the AC line (either directly to the mains or via a transformer and in both cases through some resistors to limit the current to the opto). Since the Ren48LSD does not have any AC supplied to it, the PIC basically makes up it's own timing but it closely resembles what is seen with normal ZC usage.

The Ren48LSD uses sourced outputs and not sinked outputs like the RenardSS controllers. Why is this? Because the PIC needs to turn on a transistor and to do this, it supplies 5v on it's output which turns on the transistor (via a resistor to limit the current) which allows current to flow from the collector to the emitter of the transistor. The emitter is directly connected to ground so basically, the transistor sinks the current from the LEDs (or whatever you have attached to the output) to ground. The positive voltage from the DC power supply connects directly to the device you have attached and this completes the circuit.

==Revision History==
The main changes from the v3b version of the board are a newly designed voltage regulator circuit. It was found on the v3b that the standard LM7805 regulator would get very hot when fully loaded at 12v (the v3b only supported 5vdc or 9-12vdc input). When fully on, the device sat at it's peak temperature of about 120 degC. I came up with a few workarounds which addressed this (see the v3b page) but for the next revision, I decided to change the regulator completely. Instead of using a linear 7805 regulator, I went with the LM2575-5 switching regulator. While it requires a few more parts (a coil, diodes and low ESR filter capacitors) it does allow the v3c version of the board to go up to 24vdc at full load. The regulator stays well within the temperature specs and in normal operation does not even get warm.

You do have to decide prior to building the board whether you will be using +5vdc or 9-24vdc as your input supply source (specifically to DC IN 1). If you are going with 5vdc, then you don't need any of the regulator circuit components - in fact you should specifically leave them off the board. There is a bypass jumper block on the board that bypasses the +5v from DC IN 1 directly to the logic on the board so you must install that block and jumper that as well. If you are going with 9-24vdc then you do need to install all of the regulator circuit to provide 5v to the logic on the board (PICs, Oscillator, RS485 chips).

==Ren48LSD (v3c) Parts==
In addition to the [http://www.diyledexpress.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=3&products_id=68 PCB], you will need the following components:

<table border="1"><tr><td>'''Mouser BOM'''</td></tr>
<tr><td>Mouser PN</td><td>Description</td><td>Qty</td></tr>
<tr><td>579-PIC16F688-I/P</td><td>Microcontrollers (MCU) 7KB 256 RAM 12 I/O</td><td>6</td></tr>
<tr><td>571-1-390261-3</td><td>IC & Component Sockets 14P ECONOMY TIN</td><td>6</td></tr>
<tr><td>511-ST485BN</td><td>Buffers & Line Drivers Hi-Spd Lo Pwr Trans</td><td>2</td></tr>
<tr><td>571-1-390261-2</td><td>IC & Component Sockets 8P ECONOMY TIN</td><td>2</td></tr>
<tr><td>520-TCH1843-X</td><td>ECS-2100AX-18.432MHZ</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>863-MPS2222AG</td><td>Bipolar Transistors 600mA 75V NPN</td><td>48</td></tr>
<tr><td>78-1N5239B</td><td>Zener Diodes 9.1 Volt 0.5 Watt</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>78-1N5229B</td><td>Zener Diodes 4.3 Volt 0.5 Watt</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>863-1N5819G</td><td>Schottky (Diodes & Rectifiers) 1A 40V</td><td>2</td></tr>
<tr><td>863-LM2575TV-5G</td><td>Switching Converters, Regulators & Controllers 5V 1A PWR SW REG</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>532-577102B00</td><td>Heatsinks TO-220 HORIZ/VERT SLIM CHANNEL STYLE</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>604-WP7113ID</td><td>Standard LED - Through Hole HI EFF RED DIFFUSED</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>581-SA105E104MAR</td><td>Multilayer Ceramic Capacitors (MLCC) - Leaded 50volts 0.1uF 20% Z5U</td><td>9</td></tr>
<tr><td>667-ELC-18B331L</td><td>Power Inductors 330UH RADIAL COIL CHOKE</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>140-RXJ331M1CBK1012P</td><td>Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - Leaded 16V 330uF 105C 10x12.5 mm</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>140-RXJ101M1HBK1016P</td><td>Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - Leaded 50V 100uF 105C 10x16 mm</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>299-680-RC</td><td>Carbon Film Resistors 680ohms</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>299-120-RC</td><td>Carbon Film Resistors 120ohms</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>299-27K-RC</td><td>Carbon Film Resistors 27Kohms</td><td>2</td></tr>
<tr><td>299-1K-RC</td><td>Carbon Film Resistors 1.0Kohms</td><td>2</td></tr>
<tr><td>299-470-RC</td><td>Carbon Film Resistors 470ohms</td><td>48</td></tr>
<tr><td>299-10K-RC</td><td>Carbon Film Resistors 10Kohms</td><td>6</td></tr>
<tr><td>571-5556416-1</td><td>Telecom & Ethernet Connectors 8 PCB TOP ENTRY</td><td>14</td></tr>
<tr><td>571-7969492</td><td>Terminal Blocks 5.08MM VERTICAL 2P wire protector</td><td>3</td></tr>
<tr><td>571-5-146281-2</td><td>Headers & Wire Housings 2 P HEADER GOLD 30u single row</td><td>2</td></tr>
<tr><td>649-65474-002LF</td><td>Headers & Wire Housings SHUNT TIN</td><td>1</td></tr>
</table>

[http://www.mouser.com:80/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=76c8f3ed18 Click here for Mouser Direct Project BOM]

Most of the components are not overly critical and some can be omitted in certain
cases. The electrolytic capacitors must only be subsituted with low-ESR versions only. Failure to do so could result in instability in the regulation circuit. If you are using a well regulated 5vdc supply, the voltage regulator, 1N5819 diodes (2), 330uH coil, and 100uf capacitor should not be installed. This will require a jumper to be placed across the +5vdc bypass terminal block which effectively shunts DC IN 1 directly to the board logic.

The BOM is available from [http://www.diyledexpress.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=3 DIYLEDExpress.com] 

'''NOTE - If you recently purchased a Ren48LSD board from diyledexpress then you should know that there was a slight mistake on the board files. Pin 7 of ALL the RJ45 outputs is not connected to anything. To use that pin, you must run a small jumper from pin 5 to pin 7 or simply blob up some solder between the two pins. This will ensure the common V+ is distributed properly to all four odd pins on the outputs.'''

==Building the Ren48LSD==

The Ren48LSD requires a fair bit of soldering so take your time and ensure you
install the components in the correct orientation when required. Start by sorting
the components by type and values. Look over the PCB before starting noting the
location of the various components. Follow the standard procedure of installing
the lowest profile parts first and ending up with the tallest.

[[File:Ren48LSD-v3c-Construction-0.png]]

1. Install the six 10k resistors near each PIC

[[File:Ren48LSD-v3c-Build-01a.jpg|850px]]

2. Install the two 1k resistors near the 485 chips

[[File:Ren48LSD-v3c-Build-02a.jpg|850px]]

3. Install the two 27k resistors near the 485 chips

[[File:Ren48LSD-v3c-Build-03a.jpg|850px]]

4. Install the one 120 resistor near the 485 chips

[[File:Ren48LSD-v3c-Build-04a.jpg|850px]]

5. Install the one 680 resistor near the LED

[[File:Ren48LSD-v3c-Build-05a.jpg|850px]]

6. Install the 1N5229 diode near the 485 chips – note the correct orientation - the band on the diode goes towards the top of the board in the square hole.

[[File:Ren48LSD-v3c-Build-06a.jpg|850px]]

7. Install the 1N5239 diode near the 485 chips – note the correct orientation - the band on the diode goes towards the top of the board in the square hole.

[[File:Ren48LSD-v3c-Build-07a.jpg|850px]]

8. Install the two 1N5819 diodes near the voltage regulator '''(Do not install for 5vdc input)''' – note the correct orientation - the diode closest to DCIN1 has the band on the diode facing down and in the square hole, the diode closest to the choke has the band on the diode facing right and in the square hole.

[[File:Ren48LSD-v3c-Build-08a.jpg|850px]]

9. Install all forty-eight 470 ohm resistors doing 4-8 at a time.

[[File:Ren48LSD-v3c-Build-09a.jpg|850px]]

10. Install the nine decoupling capacitors near the IC sockets and oscillator. Note that the silkscreen says ".01uF" - in fact they are 0.1uF (100nF).

[[File:Ren48LSD-v3c-Build-10a.jpg|850px]]

11. Install the six 14-pin PIC chip sockets - note the correct orientation - the top 3 sockets have the notch facing towards the left, and the bottom 3 sockets have the notch facing the right.

[[File:Ren48LSD-v3c-Build-11a.jpg|850px]]

12. Install the two 8-pin 485 chip sockets - note the correct orientation - the notch faces to the right side of the board towards the PICs.

[[File:Ren48LSD-v3c-Build-12a.jpg|850px]]

13. Install the 18.432MHz oscillator – note the correct orientation - the package has one square corner (and a dot) and that goes into the square hole on the board

[[File:Ren48LSD-v3c-Build-13a.jpg|850px]]

14. Install the 48 transistors – note the correct orientation – the emitter is nearest the PICs, base in the middle and collector near the RJ45 jacks. The legs of the transistors will need to be bent slightly to fit the holes. The middle leg will end up being out in front of the flat side of the transistor.

[[File:Ren48LSD-v3c-Build-14a.jpg|850px]]

15. Install the two 2-pin shunt jumpers

[[File:Ren48LSD-v3c-Build-15a.jpg|850px]]

16. Install the LED – note correct orientation - the flat side of the LED faces the bottom of the board and the shorter leg goes into the square hole.

[[File:Ren48LSD-v3c-Build-16a.jpg|850px]]

17. Install the DC input terminal blocks – note correct orientation - have the side where the power wires will be inserted facing to the right.

[[File:Ren48LSD-v3c-Build-17a.jpg|850px]]

18. Install the +5vdc bypass block '''(Install for 5vdc input)'''

[[File:Ren48LSD-v3c-Build-18a.jpg|850px]]

Note that if you are using a regulated 5vdc power supply for your input, you should omit installing most of the regulator circuitry.

19. Install the LM2575 regulator '''(Do not install for 5vdc input)''' - note correct orientation - pin 1 is denoted by the square pad - the odd number pins are the pins farthest away from the back

[[File:Ren48LSD-v3c-Build-19a.jpg|850px]]

20. Install the 100uF/50v capacitor '''(Do not install for 5vdc input)''' – note correct orientation - the capacitor has a stripe on the side denoting the negative leg that goes in the round hole.

[[File:Ren48LSD-v3c-Build-20a.jpg|850px]]

21. Install the 330uF/16v capacitor – note correct orientation - the capacitor has a stripe on the side denoting the negative leg that goes in the round hole.

[[File:Ren48LSD-v3c-Build-21a.jpg|850px]]

22. Mount the 5v regulator heat sink if you installed the regulator – use a small amount of heat sink compound

23. Install the choke coil '''(Do not install for 5vdc input)'''

[[File:Ren48LSD-v3c-Build-22.jpg|850px]]

24. Install the fourteen RJ45 jacks – note that side-entry jacks can be substituted

[[File:Ren48LSD-v3c-Build-23a.jpg|850px]]

Congratulations! That completes the construction of the Ren48LSD!

==Initial Testing==
The first thing you will want to do in any PCB construction project is to double check that you have all components installed and in the proper orientation. You will then want to inspect the board for any cold/bridged solder joints. Take your time with this step and go over each and every joint.

If you have any of the IC's installed - remove them now. Connect your power supply to the “DC IN 1” - it supplies power to controller portion of the board as well as strip outputs 1-6. “DC IN 2” is a separate input to drive strips 7-12. Note that the ground is shared between the two inputs. If you are using a well regulated +5vdc power supply as your power input, the regulator circuit should not be installed. However, you must manually bypass this by placing a jumper wire between the +5vdc bypass terminal block. Turn on the supply and verify the power LED lights up. Verify you have 5v between pins 1 and 14 on each PIC socket as well as between pins 5 and 8 on the 485 chip sockets. Install all of the IC's if this passes.

==Programming the PIC controllers==
The Ren48LSD does not supply or use a ZeroCross input and therefore the Renard firmware (either Renard or DMX protocol) must be configured for DC/PWM
operation. In addition, if you are using the DMX firmware, you may want to set the initial starting address but generally, this can be left at '1' for all PICs since the code is self-addressing. Also – like the ULN2803 drivers, the transistors invert the output so the firmware uses positive outputs.

===Renard Protocol===
Obtain the standard Renard firmware [http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/images/d/d3/Renard-20071229.asm here:]

Make the following changes:

#define PWM_build 1 – change from '0'
#define DC_build 1 – change from '0'
#define CTR_LOCKOUT 1 – change from '15'
;#define OUTPUT_NEGATIVE_TRUE – comment this out

Compile the code into hex code and program all six PICs with the same code. A standard version of the code with the settings above has been compiled already for you in the File Library available [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/dynamics/attachment.php?attachmentid=207&d=1280420686 here].

===Renard-DMX Protocol===
Obtain the DMX Renard firmware from [http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/images/e/ea/Renard-dmx-20080814.asm here:]

#define DC_build 1 – change from '0'
#define CTR_LOCKOUT 0 – change from '40'
#define SINK_map 0x00 – change from '0xFF'

If you want to change the DMX starting address then alter it below – this is only required on the first PIC in the chain. If you have multiple Ren48LSD controllers, you can leave the second/subsequent PICs at '1' and they will automatically start off where the last PIC left off.

#define DMX_START_ADDRESS 1

Compile the code into hex code and program all six PICs with the same code (unless using a starting address). A standard version of the code with the settings above has been compiled already for you in the File Library available [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/dynamics/attachment.php?attachmentid=206&d=1280420686 here].

Whichever firmware you choose, install the flashed PICs into the sockets noting the correct orientation. Also install the two 485 chips into their sockets noting the correct orientation. You are now ready for final testing.

==Final Testing==
I chose not to design in the diagnostic LEDs as those used on the RenSS series of controllers. The design is fairly straight-forward and as long as you are sure of the voltage inputs and the PICs are flashed properly you should not have any issues if your soldering is good.

If you are using RS232, you should install the shunt on the "RS232" header which shorts pin 5 of the RJ45-IN connector to ground for proper RS232 operation. The wiring is the same as the RenardSS series so you can follow the cabling requiremnents for that.

As the Renard controller variations do not use bussed DMX it's not critical to install the DMX termination shunt if you are only using Renard controllers. This is because they are using point-to-point configurations. However - if this particular controller is at the end of a line of other normal (bussed) DMX devices, you should install the shunt to properly terminate the bus.

I'm assuming at this point that you have built one or more of the LED SuperStrips to test with. If not - - well - - do it... Note that the strips have one caveat – I have found that the LED colors go in Red, Blue, Green and White order – not Red, Green, Blue and White order. The RJ45 outputs are as follows:

#Common +DC
#Red Ground
#Common +DC
#Blue Ground
#Common +DC
#Green Ground
#Common +DC
#White Ground

What does this mean to you? Well – if you use standard straight-thru RJ45/Ethernet cables, the color order will be RBGW channel order in Vixen so if you want to use an RGBW order, you'll need to change the channel order in Vixen. The other alternative (and the way I do it) is to swap pins 4 and 6 at one end of the RJ45 cable. I did this because I thought it made more sense to keep the natural pin order versus color order. Note that pins 1, 3, 5 and 7 are tied together both on the PCB as well as the strips – there is no way to have separate +DC runs with the strips.

Connect the Ren48LSD to your PC using standard wiring practices as on the Wiki for other Renard controllers. Develop a Vixen sequence to turn on/off each channel in groups of four using the appropriate Renard/DMX plug-in. Channels 1, 5, 9, etc should have the same programming but only have 1 channel in the group (1,2,3,4) on at a time. This helps ensure you have unique channel
addressing from each RJ45 output.

With the sequence running, plug in a strip into each RJ45 and ensure each color turns on in order (remember that the B & G colors are swapped). Once that is complete you change the on/off to ramp up/downs to verify dimming operation. Finally, you can perform a full load test with 12 strips installed.

The Ren48LSD can be used to drive other devices as well of course. The MightyMini floods can be wired using normal RGBW wiring since the MM end of the cable goes into terminal blocks versus an RJ45 jack. Another popular flood is the ChristmasOnManor Rainbow Flood. This is an RGB (no white) flood so it only uses 3 channels. The wiring uses pins 2, 4 and 8 to drive Red, Green and Blue. Note that pin 6 - or the 3rd channel is not used here. You have a few choices - in Vixen simply skip that channel, or if you really want to use that channel, you will need to do some creative cabling or not use the RJ45 jacks at all and wire the 3 channels directly to the board. You can also alter the code in the PIC to only use 6 channels but this probably isn't worth the effort of changing the code.

==TroubleShooting==
So - you've built your new Ren48LSD, connected it up to your computer and tried a quick sequence and nothing happens! There are several checks to perform in order:

===Visual Inspection===
The very first step involves a close visual inspection of the board. Double check that you have the correct component in the correct location and in the correct orientation. Look at every single solder connection and if some are not shiny or look suspect - reflow them to be sure.
===Power===
Measure across pins 1 and 14 on all PIC sockets (U1 -> U6) - it should read 5v

Measure across pins 5 and 8 on both RS-485 sockets (U7, U8) - it should read 5v

If you do not measure 5v and you are using the "+5VDC BYPASS" feature, then ensure your supply is actually providing 5v at the "DC IN 1" terminal block.

If you do not measure 5v and you are using the regulator circuit, then ensure you are providing at least 7.5vdc (and up to 24vdc) into the "DC IN 1" terminal block from your supply. If that's OK, then inspect the soldering all around the regulator, coil, diodes and filter capacitors on the right hand side of the board. Ensure the filter capacitors, diodes and regulator were installed with the correct orientation.

===PIC Programming===
Reflash your PICs with the .hex file from this Wiki page or the File Library - perform a 'Verify' to be sure it's not blank
===Clocking===
With all six PICs installed, measure the voltage from pin 14 (gnd) to pin 2 (OSC) on all PICs - it should read around 2.5v (+/- 0.3v). If it appears to be stuck at 0 or 5v, then you probably have a soldering issue, the oscillator was installed with the incorrect orientation or the oscillator is bad. There should be 5v between the upper left and lower right pins on the oscillator (as viewed from the top of the board shown above).

Another possible reason for seeing close to 5v on pin 2 is that none of the PICs have been programmed properly. This is due to no loading of the output from the oscillator. Before replacing the oscillator, re-verify that the PICs have been programmed.

===Communications===
From Vixen, ensure you have the appropriate plug-in selected and configured. If you are using Renard/Serial code, you should have the "Renard Dimmer (modified)" selected using Protocol Version 1 and the correct COM port selected for your serial port. Ensure the baud rate is 57600 (if using the standard image), 8-bits, no parity, no stop bits and that it matches the port settings in the Windows Control Panel (Device Manager) as well. Ensure your cabling is correct from the Wiki documentation for Renard (it is the same as the RenSS series). Ensure the "RS232" jumper is ON and that the "TERM" jumper is OFF.

If you are using Renard/DMX code, you should have either the "Enttec Open DMX" or "Enttec DMX USB Pro" plug-in selected (unless you are using E1.31 which is beyond this document). Ensure your DMX dongle is seen as a COM port (unplug/plug in to be sure while Vixen is not up) and the plug-in is configured to match the port number. The baud rate settings are not used for DMX (it's always 250Kbps). If using the Enttec Open dongle, you need to configure the DMX Add-In as well so that the data is streamed to the device.Ensure your cabling is correct from the Wiki documentation for Renard (it is the same as the RenSS series). Ensure the "RS232" jumper is OFF. The "TERM" jumper will probably make no difference whether it's on or off but you can try both ways to see if it makes any difference.

Note that it's not really within the scope of this document to troubleshoot Vixen/dongle/cabling issues - please go through some of the Wiki documentation and if at all possible, try to confirm on a working piece of equipment before troubleshooting something that isn't broken to begin with. It's assumed at this point that to the best of your knowledge that everything up to the "IN" jack is in working order.

Configure a short Vixen sequence with a slow on/off sequence for each channel - 1 second on, 1 second off. Alternate the odd channels so that they are the opposite polarity of the even channels. In other words, when channel 1 is ON, channel 2 is OFF or when channel 2 is ON, channel 1 is off. Create a 48-channel sequence in this fashion so you can test all PICs at once. With the sequence running, measure the outputs of the PIC at pins 1, 13, 12, 11, 10, 9, 8 and 7. You should see each pin alternate from 0v to 5v once a second matching the sequence. If this is not the case, then sequencing data is not being received by the PIC(s).

Measure the voltage at pin 5 on PIC #1 (U1) with the same sequence running (from ground). it should be alternating between 0v and 5v and not be stuck at one or the other. If it appears stuck, then inspect the "IN" RS-485 chip at U7 (and the entire path from it to pin 5 on PIC #1/U1 pin 5) and ensure there are no bent pins (including the RJ45 jack itself), cold solder joints. Swap the two chips at U7 and U8 ("OUT" RS-485) to see if that resolves the issue. If the failure is in-between channels, then perform the same check on pin 5 on all PICs. For PICs #2-6, pin 5 is fed from pin 6 on the preceding PIC. In other words PIC 1, pin 6 feeds PIC 2, pin 5 and down the line so it could be an issue with the preceding PIC. Swap PICs around to see if that helps - otherwise it is probably a soldering issue.

If the problem is with a daisy-chained controller FROM this Ren48LSD, then inspect the RS-485 "OUT" chip closely at U8 for bent pins, solder issues, etc. Check the output RJ45 jack at J14 for crossed pins. Swap the RS-485 chip between U7 and U8 to see if that helps. Note that ALL output from the Ren48LSD is at RS-485 levels so the daisy-chained controller should not have the RS-232 jumper enabled.

===Output Drivers===
It's assumed at this point that you have checked that a sequence can drive the PIC outputs properly between 0 and 5v OK. With the PIC(s) removed and power on, connect a ''known good device'' (flood, RGB strip, etc) to the output socket(s) in question.

Use a piece of hookup wire and connect the wire from pin 1 to the following pins:

:Pin 3 - channel 1/9/17/25/33/41
:Pin 13 - channel 2/10/18/26/34/42
:Pin 12 - channel 3/11/19/27/35/43
:Pin 11 - channel 4/12/20/28/36/44
:Pin 10 - channel 5/13/21/29/37/45
:Pin 9 - channel 6/14/22/30/38/46
:Pin 8 - channel 7/15/23/31/39/47
:Pin 7 - channel 8/16/24/32/40/48

After connecting the wire to the output pins, the device should turn on. If it does not, then it's possible the output driver (transistor) is bad. Check the path from the PIC output pin you are testing through the 470 ohm resistor and to the base of the transistor in question. The nomenclature (name) of the transistor matches the channel number so "Q23" is for channel 23. Replacements may have been included with your kit or you can get them at RadioShack - most MPS2222a, PN2222A or 2N3904 types can be subsituted. If you have multiple transistors bad, then you should investigate how this happened before replacing the transistors since there's a good chance they will simply blow again.

==FAQ==

Q1: What if I only have 6 strips and won't be using ports 7-12?

A1: Well - you're in luck! Next to PIC #3 and PIC #6 is a via hole that will bypass PICs #4 - #6 if you install a wire between them. Note that this is only necessary if you are planning to daisy-chain another board from this one. This effectively makes this a Ren24LSD. If you are not going to daisy-chain another board, you can leave it off as well as the RS-485 output chip. Personally, I think this is false economy since you'll have to dig the parts up if you change your mind and want to run a board off this one. In either case, you certainly save time and money by not installing the PICs, sockets, transistors, resistors and output connectors for strips 7-12 if you don't have them.

[[File:Ren48LSD-v3c-Construction-Bypass.png]]

Q2: Can I use standard DIY SSRs with the Ren48LSD?

A2: Maybe - but with the following caveats:
:*It has not been tested at all
:*The power LED on the SSR will not work as there is no ground fed to pin 7.
:*To be safe, pins 3, 5 and 7 should not be connected from the Ren48LSD to the SSR.
:*You may want to stick with a 5vdc source only if insure of the specifications of the optoisolators used on the SSRs. If you are using the standard coop AC or DC SSRs then they should be able to use anything up to 12vdc OK.
For these reasons, it is not really recommended to use an SSR on the Ren48LSD at this time.
----

==Schematic==

'''NOTE - the schematic below has an error on the input circuitry but the board itself is correct. Use the RenSS (any) schematic for the communication circuitry for now.'''

Here is the schematic drawing for the Ren48LSD v3c in PDF format - [[File:Ren48LSD-v3c-Schematic.pdf]]

----
--[[User:Budude|Budude]] 03:08, 4 June 2010 (UTC)

[[Category:DIYC Controllers]]
[[Category:Renard]]
[[Category:Renard 48LSD]]
[[Category:DIYC Index]]

Ren4Flood

2012-10-18T23:20:47Z

Budude: /* Communications */

=Ren4Flood Construction Manual=
Please see the standard [[Disclaimers|Disclaimers]] 

[[File:Ren4Flood-v1c-Step26.JPG|300px]] 

==What is the Ren4Flood?==
The Ren4Flood is a four channel controller primarily aimed at controlling an RGB+W LED flood such as the MightyMini, Rainbow Flood (RGB only) or the [[DIYC_Flood|DIYC Flood]]. It uses the existing Renard architecture and code which has been modified to only consume four channels versus the normal eight that a Renard uses per PIC. The logic/control/communication portion of the circuit comes straight from the RenardSS series of controllers so much of the credit goes to Wayne James and of course Phil Short for their contributions. The output section is taken from the Ren48LSD but reduced to only four channels. One minor difference on the RS-485 interface is that jumpers have been added to bypass the input directly to the output creating a non-regenerated "THRU" port instead of the more common output port on the RenSS series. This allows you to use static node addressing without affecting other nodes further up/down the line.

The other significant difference with the Ren4Flood is that it employs two input trigger ports. While this is not completely defined at the moment, the idea is of at least two different scenarios. The first allowing the installation of a switch to be mounted to the flood enclosure and simply turning on all of the LEDs to create a bright flood to be used during setup or off-season. The other scenario is using a trigger for security reasons. The input would be connected to some type of N/O switches and closing the switch would trigger the board to perform some type of light effect to scare off and/or alert you to this. Additional code could be used to monitor the input for data and if after a particular time period passes with no traffic (say 15 minutes), a light pattern would start for a set length of time to create simple mood/background lighting after the show completes.

==How does the Ren4Flood work?==
As mentioned before, the Ren4Flood uses the same architecture for the logic portions of the board from the RenardSS series of boards. Sequence information is passed from a PC running Vixen or other sequencing program via an RS-232 or RS-485/DMX interface. The ST485 chips receive this information and turn into standard TTL logic levels that the PIC can understand. The PIC reads in the data and if it determines that the information corresponds to itself, it updates the dimming levels of all 4 channels. It removes this information from the stream and feeds the rest out to the other ST485 chip which translates it to RS-485 levels for the next controller in the line. It is important to realize that the information is removed from the stream and that the resultant leftover stream will have all of the data offset by the 4 channels of information used by the Ren4Flood. For example, if you have two Ren4Flood, on Vixen you would configure a single Renard/DMX plug-in with 8 channels. The first Ren4Flood consumes the first 4 channels of information leaving only 4 channels on it's outputs. The second Ren4Flood will see this incoming data as controller #1 again and assume the data is for it. This is very much different than standard hard/soft-coded DMX or LOR devices that use a set address yet still pass on the entire stream to the next controller on the line. There are advantages and disadvantages to either approach - but you should be aware of this when combining normal DMX devices before/after a Ren4Flood (or any Renard controller running DMX code).

The Ren4Flood has a jumper to bypass this however and can pass the data straight from the input to the output plug. This means you will need to set the hardware address by programming the PIC with different addresses on each Ren4Flood controller.

The PICs receive the data on pin 5 and after consuming their 4 channels of data, forward the rest out of pin 6 of the PIC which in turn goes to the next controller if you have one attached as mentioned above.

The board requires a 12-24vdc supply which is converted to +5v for the logic portion of the controller but is also fed directly out to the outputs via the transistors.

The Ren4Flood uses sourced outputs and not sinked outputs like the RenardSS controllers. Why is this? Because the PIC needs to turn on a transistor and to do this, it supplies 5v on it's output which turns on the transistor (via a resistor to limit the current) which allows current to flow from the collector to the emitter of the transistor. The emitter is directly connected to ground so basically, the transistor sinks the current from the LEDs (or whatever you have attached to the output) to ground. The positive voltage from the DC power supply connects directly to the device you have attached and this completes the circuit.

==Revision History==
The v1c version is currently the only version of the Ren4Flood in production.

==Ren4Flood (v1c) Parts==
In addition to the PCB, you will need the following components:

<table border="1"><tr><td>'''Mouser BOM'''</td></tr>
<tr><td>Mouser PN</td><td>Description</td><td>Qty</td></tr>
<tr><td>579-PIC16F688-I/P</td><td>Microcontrollers (MCU) 7KB 256 RAM 12 I/O</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>571-1-390261-3</td><td>IC & Component Sockets 14P ECONOMY TIN</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>511-ST485BN</td><td>Buffers & Line Drivers Hi-Spd Lo Pwr Trans</td><td>2</td></tr>
<tr><td>571-1-390261-2</td><td>IC & Component Sockets 8P ECONOMY TIN</td><td>2</td></tr>
<tr><td>520-TCH1843-X</td><td>ECS-2100AX-18.432MHZ</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>863-MPS2222AG</td><td>Bipolar Transistors 600mA 75V NPN</td><td>4</td></tr>
<tr><td>78-1N5239B</td><td>Zener Diodes 9.1 Volt 0.5 Watt</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>78-1N5229B</td><td>Zener Diodes 4.3 Volt 0.5 Watt</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>863-1N5819G</td><td>Schottky (Diodes & Rectifiers) 1A 40V</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>512-LM7805CT</td><td>Linear Regulators - Standard 1A Pos Vol Reg</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>532-577102B00</td><td>Heatsinks TO-220 HORIZ/VERT SLIM CHANNEL STYLE</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>604-WP7113ID</td><td>Standard LED - Through Hole HI EFF RED DIFFUSED</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>581-SA105E104MAR</td><td>Multilayer Ceramic Capacitors (MLCC) - Leaded 50volts 0.1uF 20% Z5U</td><td>5</td></tr>
<tr><td>647-UHE1C471MPD</td><td>Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - Leaded 16volts 470uF 105c 8x15 3.5LS</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>581-SA105E224MAR</td><td>Multilayer Ceramic Capacitors (MLCC) - Leaded 50volts 0.22uF 20% Z5U</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>581-SA305E105MAR</td><td>Multilayer Ceramic Capacitors (MLCC) - Leaded 50volts 1uF 20% Z5U</td><td>2</td></tr>
<tr><td>299-680-RC</td><td>Carbon Film Resistors 680ohms</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>299-120-RC</td><td>Carbon Film Resistors 120ohms</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>299-27K-RC</td><td>Carbon Film Resistors 27Kohms</td><td>2</td></tr>
<tr><td>299-1K-RC</td><td>Carbon Film Resistors 1.0Kohms</td><td>4</td></tr>
<tr><td>299-470-RC</td><td>Carbon Film Resistors 470ohms</td><td>4</td></tr>
<tr><td>299-10K-RC</td><td>Carbon Film Resistors 10Kohms</td><td>3</td></tr>
<tr><td>571-5556416-1</td><td>Telecom & Ethernet Connectors 8 PCB TOP ENTRY</td><td>2</td></tr>
<tr><td>571-7969492</td><td>Terminal Blocks 5.08MM VERTICAL 2P wire protector</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>651-1727078</td><td>Fixed Terminal Blocks 8P 3.81mm 90DEG</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>651-1727036</td><td>Fixed Terminal Blocks 4P 3.81mm 90DEG</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>538-22-28-4056</td><td>Headers & Wire Housings 5CKT VERT HDR</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>538-70287-1001</td><td>Headers & Wire Housings C-GRID .100" 2X03P VT HDR </td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>571-5-146281-2</td><td>Headers & Wire Housings 2 P HEADER GOLD 30u single row</td><td>2</td></tr>
<tr><td>649-65474-002LF</td><td>Headers & Wire Housings SHUNT TIN</td><td>3</td></tr>
</table>

[http://www.mouser.com:80/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=aef7433f52 Click here for Mouser Direct Project BOM]

Most of the components are not overly critical and some can be omitted in certain cases.

The BOM is available from [http://www.diyledexpress.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=4&products_id=9 DIYLEDExpress.com] 

==Building the Ren4Flood==

The Ren4Flood requires a modest bit of soldering so take your time and ensure you install the components in the correct orientation when required. Start by sorting the components by type and values. Look over the PCB before starting noting the location of the various components. Follow the standard procedure of installing the lowest profile parts first and ending up with the tallest. Begin by inspecting the PCBs to look for any defects such as cracks or breaks. The holes on the board should be open on both sides. Then inspect and sort out the various parts for the board.

[[File:Ren4Flood-v1c-Step00.JPG|300px]] 

1. Install the three 10k resistors near top center of the board

[[File:Ren4Flood-v1c-Step01.JPG|300px]] 

2. Install the four 1k resistors two near the top 485 chip and two near the middle of the board

[[File:Ren4Flood-v1c-Step02.JPG|300px]] 

3. Install the two 27k resistors near the top 485 chip

[[File:Ren4Flood-v1c-Step03.JPG|300px]] 

4. Install the one 120 resistor near the top 485 chip

[[File:Ren4Flood-v1c-Step04.JPG|300px]] 

5. Install the one 680 resistor near the LED in the middle of the board

[[File:Ren4Flood-v1c-Step05.JPG|300px]] 

6. Install the 1N5229 diode above the top 485 chip – note the correct orientation - the band on the diode goes towards the right side of the board

[[File:Ren4Flood-v1c-Step06.JPG|300px]] 

7. Install the 1N5239 diode above the top 485 chip – note the correct orientation - the band on the diode goes towards the left side of the board

[[File:Ren4Flood-v1c-Step07.JPG|300px]] 

8. Install the four 470 ohm resistors near the right side of the board

[[File:Ren4Flood-v1c-Step08.JPG|300px]] 

9. Install the five 0.1uf decoupling capacitors near the IC sockets, oscillator and near the voltage regulator. Note that the silkscreen says 100nF.

[[File:Ren4Flood-v1c-Step09.JPG|300px]] 

10. Install the one 0.33uf capacitor to the right of the voltage regulator. Note that the silkscreen says 330nF. The BOM lists a 0.22uf capacitor, either a 0.22uf or a 0.33uf can be used.

[[File:Ren4Flood-v1c-Step10.JPG|300px]] 

11. Install the two 1.0uf capacitors and near the ICSP header. Note that the silkscreen says "1uF".

12. Install the one 14-pin PIC chip socket and the two 8-pin 485 chip sockets - note the correct orientation with the socket notch in the same direction as the silk screen.

[[File:Ren4Flood-v1c-Step12.JPG|300px]] 

13. Install the 18.432MHz oscillator – note the correct orientation - the package has one square corner (and a dot) and that goes into the square hole on the board

[[File:Ren4Flood-v1c-Step13.JPG|300px]] 

14. Install the two 2-pin headers on the left side of the board in the term and rs232 holes

[[File:Ren4Flood-v1c-Step14.JPG|300px]] 

15. Install the one 2x3-pin header to the left of the bottom rs485 chip

[[File:Ren4Flood-v1c-Step15.JPG|300px]] 

16. Install the one 5-pin header in the top center of the board int the holes marked ICSP

[[File:Ren4Flood-v1c-Step16.JPG|300px]] 

17. Install the LED – note correct orientation - the flat side of the LED faces to the left. The longer leg of the LED goes in the hole to the right.

[[File:Ren4Flood-v1c-Step17.JPG|300px]] 

18. Install the one 2-terminal DC input terminal blocks – note correct orientation - have the side where the power wires will be inserted facing the bottom of the board

[[File:Ren4Flood-v1c-Step18.JPG|300px]] 

19. Install the one 4-terminal trigger terminal block on the top right of the board.

[[File:Ren4Flood-v1c-Step19.JPG|300px]] 

20. Install the one 8-terminal flood terminal block to the right side of the board.

21. Install the LM7805 regulator - note correct orientation - pin 1 is denoted by the dot on the package and the board. Mount the heat sink to the device and use a small amount of heat sink compound

[[File:Ren4Flood-v1c-Step21.JPG|300px]] 

22. Install the one 1N5819 diode near the voltage regulator ( – note the correct orientation - the diode has the band on the diode facing towards the top of the board. '''NOTE - If you are using the Ren4Flood with the DIYC Flood do not install this diode - instead use a jumper'''

[[File:Ren4Flood-v1c-Step22.JPG|300px]] 

23. Install the 470uF/16v capacitor – note correct orientation - the capacitor has a stripe on the side denoting the negative leg that goes in the hole near the "-"mark on the board.

[[File:Ren4Flood-v1c-Step23.JPG|300px]] 

24. Install the two RJ45 jacks – note that side-entry jacks can be substituted

[[File:Ren4Flood-v1c-Step24.JPG|300px]] 

25. Install the 4 transistors – note the correct orientation – the flat side of the package faces towards the bottom of the board.

[[File:Ren4Flood-v1c-Step25.JPG|300px]] 

Congratulations! That completes the construction of the Ren4Flood!

==Initial Testing==
The first thing you will want to do in any PCB construction project is to double check that you have all components installed and in the proper orientation. You will then want to inspect the board for any cold/bridged solder joints. Take your time with this step and go over each and every joint.

If you have any of the IC's installed - remove them now. Connect your power supply to the “DC IN” - it supplies power to controller portion of the board as well as the outputs. Turn on the supply and verify the power LED lights up. Verify you have 5v between pins 1 and 14 on the PIC socket as well as between pins 5 and 8 on the 485 chip sockets. Install all of the IC's if this passes. The PIC goes in the 14 pin socket with the notch facing the top of the board. The two 485 chips go in the 8 pin sockets on the left side of the board and the notches face to the left.

==Programming the PIC controllers==
The Ren4Flood does not supply or use a ZeroCross input and therefore the Renard firmware (either Renard or DMX protocol) must be configured for DC/PWM
operation. In addition, if you are using the DMX firmware, you may want to set the initial starting address but generally, this can be left at '1' for all PICs since the code is self-addressing. Also – like the ULN2803 drivers, the transistors invert the output so the firmware uses positive outputs.

===Renard Protocol===
'''4-channel Renard/Serial firmware for the Ren4Flood will be coming soon - for now use standard Ren48LSD/Serial code'''
Obtain the standard Renard firmware [http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/images/d/d3/Renard-20071229.asm here:]

Make the following changes:

#define PWM_build 1 – change from '0'
#define DC_build 1 – change from '0'
#define CTR_LOCKOUT 1 – change from '15'
;#define OUTPUT_NEGATIVE_TRUE – comment this out

Compile the code into hex code and program the PIC. A standard version of the code with the settings above has been compiled already for you in the File Library available [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/dynamics/attachment.php?attachmentid=207&d=1280420686 here].

Note that when using the standard Ren48LSD/Serial code, that you need to account for eight channels even though there are only four used on the Ren4Flood. Channels 1-4 are not used and channels 5-8 are for the four outputs.

There is no trigger code written for the Ren4Flood at this time so the trigger inputs are not functional yet. This functionality will be added at a later time.

===Renard-DMX Protocol===
Obtain the Ren4Flood firmware from [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/dynamics/attachment.php?attachmentid=379&d=1316753757 here:]

If you want to change the DMX starting address then alter it below.

#define DMX_START_ADDRESS 1

Compile the code into hex code and program the PIC with the same code (unless using a starting address). A standard version of the code with the settings above has been compiled already for you in the File Library available [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/dynamics/attachment.php?attachmentid=380&d=1316753757 here].

Whichever firmware you choose, install the flashed PIC into the socket noting the correct orientation. Also install the two 485 chips into their sockets noting the correct orientation. You are now ready for final testing.

There is no trigger code written for the Ren4Flood at this time so the trigger inputs are not functional yet. This functionality will be added at a later time.

==Final Testing==
I chose not to design in the diagnostic LEDs as those used on the RenSS series of controllers. The design is fairly straight-forward and as long as you are sure of the voltage inputs and the PICs are flashed properly you should not have any issues if your soldering is good.

If you are using RS232, you should install the shunt on the "RS232" header which shorts pin 5 of the RJ45-IN connector to ground for proper RS232 operation. The wiring is the same as the RenardSS series so you can follow the cabling requiremnents for that.

As the Renard controller variations do not use bussed DMX it's not critical to install the DMX termination shunt if you are only using Renard controllers. This is because they are using point-to-point configurations. However - if this particular controller is at the end of a line of other normal (bussed) DMX devices, you should install the shunt to properly terminate the bus.

Connect the Ren4Flood to your PC using standard wiring practices as on the Wiki for other Renard controllers. Develop a Vixen sequence to turn on/off each channel one-by-one using the appropriate Renard/DMX plug-in. With the sequence running, measure the output of each terminal block pair and ensure the voltage swings from 0 to DC IN.

==TroubleShooting==
So - you've built your new Ren4Flood, connected it up to your computer and tried a quick sequence and nothing happens! There are several checks to perform in order:

===Visual Inspection===
The very first step involves a close visual inspection of the board. Double check that you have the correct component in the correct location and in the correct orientation. Look at every single solder connection and if some are not shiny or look suspect - reflow them to be sure.
===Power===
Measure across pins 1 and 14 on the PIC socket - it should read 5v

Measure across pins 5 and 8 on both RS-485 sockets - it should read 5v

If you do not measure 5v and you are using the regulator, then ensure you are providing at least 7.5vdc (and up to 24vdc) into the terminal block from your supply. If that's OK, then inspect the soldering all around the regulator and filter capacitors on the board. Ensure the filter capacitor and regulator were installed with the correct orientation.

===PIC Programming===
Reflash your PIC with the .hex file from this Wiki page or the File Library - perform a 'Verify' to be sure it's not blank

===Clocking===
With the PIC installed, measure the voltage from pin 14 (gnd) to pin 2 (OSC) on the PIC - it should not be stuck at 0 or 5v (probably close to 3.5v). If it is then you probably have a soldering issue, the oscillator was installed with the incorrect orientation or the oscillator is bad. There should be 5v between the upper left and lower right pins on the oscillator.

Another possible reason for seeing close to 5v on pin 2 is that the PIC has been programmed properly. This is due to no loading of the output from the oscillator. Before replacing the oscillator, re-verify that the PIC has been programmed.

===Communications===
From Vixen, ensure you have the appropriate plug-in selected and configured. If you are using Renard/Serial code, you should have the "Renard Dimmer (modified)" selected using Protocol Version 1 and the correct COM port selected for your serial port. Ensure the baud rate is 57600 (if using the standard image), 8-bits, no parity, 1 stop bit and that it matches the port settings in the Windows Control Panel (Device Manager) as well. Ensure your cabling is correct from the Wiki documentation for Renard (it is the same as the RenSS series). Ensure the "RS232" jumper is ON and that the "TERM" jumper is OFF.

If you are using Renard/DMX code, you should have either the "Enttec Open DMX" or "Enttec DMX USB Pro" plug-in selected (unless you are using E1.31 which is beyond this document). Ensure your DMX dongle is seen as a COM port (unplug/plug in to be sure while Vixen is not up) and the plug-in is configured to match the port number. The baud rate settings are not used for DMX (it's always 250Kbps). If using the Enttec Open dongle, you need to configure the DMX Add-In as well so that the data is streamed to the device.Ensure your cabling is correct from the Wiki documentation for Renard (it is the same as the RenSS series). Ensure the "RS232" jumper is OFF. The "TERM" jumper will probably make no difference whether it's on or off but you can try both ways to see if it makes any difference.

Note that it's not really within the scope of this document to troubleshoot Vixen/dongle/cabling issues - please go through some of the Wiki documentation and if at all possible, try to confirm on a working piece of equipment before troubleshooting something that isn't broken to begin with. It's assumed at this point that to the best of your knowledge that everything up to the "IN" jack is in working order.

Configure a short Vixen sequence with a slow on/off sequence for each channel - 1 second on, 1 second off. Alternate the odd channels so that they are the opposite polarity of the even channels. In other words, when channel 1 is ON, channel 2 is OFF or when channel 2 is ON, channel 1 is off. Create a 4-channel sequence in this fashion so you can test all channels at once. With the sequence running, measure the outputs of the PIC at pins 10, 9, 8 and 7. You should see each pin alternate from 0v to 5v once a second matching the sequence. If this is not the case, then sequencing data is not being received by the PIC(s).

Measure the voltage at pin 5 on PIC with the same sequence running (from ground). it should be alternating between 0v and 5v and not be stuck at one or the other. If it appears stuck, then inspect the "IN" RS-485 chip (and the entire path from it to pin 5 on the PIC) and ensure there are no bent pins (including the RJ45 jack itself), cold solder joints. Swap the two RS485 chips to see if that resolves the issue.

If the problem is with a daisy-chained controller FROM this Ren4Flood, then inspect the RS-485 "OUT" chip closely for bent pins, solder issues, etc. Check the output RJ45 jack for crossed pins. Swap the RS-485 chips to see if that helps. Note that ALL output from the Ren4Flood is at RS-485 levels so the daisy-chained controller should not have the RS-232 jumper enabled.

===Output Drivers===
It's assumed at this point that you have checked that a sequence can drive the PIC outputs properly between 0 and 5v OK. With the PIC(s) removed and power on, connect a ''known good device'' (flood, RGB strip, etc) to the output socket(s) in question.

Use a piece of hookup wire and connect the wire from pin 1 to the following pins:

:Pin 10 - channel 1
:Pin 9 - channel 2
:Pin 8 - channel 3
:Pin 7 - channel 4

After connecting the wire to the output pins, the device should turn on. If it does not, then it's possible the output driver (transistor) is bad. Check the path from the PIC output pin you are testing through the 470 ohm resistor and to the base of the transistor in question. The nomenclature (name) of the transistor matches the channel number so "Q2" is for channel 2. Replacements may have been included with your kit or you can get them at RadioShack - most MPS2222a, PN2222A or 2N3904 types can be subsituted. If you have multiple transistors bad, then you should investigate how this happened before replacing the transistors since there's a good chance they will simply blow again.

==FAQ==
What are the jumper settings for the board? 
There are three jumper settings on the Ren4Flood pcb.

1) The first jumper is the TERM jumper. You may need to connect the shunt across the two pins if this is the last device in a string of DMX devices.

2) The second jumper is the RS232 jumper. You may need to connect the shunt across the two pins if you are sending data to the board using RS232 signaling.

3) The Third jumper is the THRU jumper. This is a 2x3 header. For "normal" Renard operation, there should be a pair of jumpers across both 1&2 (they go vertically). For "THRU" they should go across 2&3. Basically this jumpers pins 4&5 from the IN connector directly to the OUT connector. If you use the THRU connection using the standard Ren48LSD code, it will not be an issue since ALL data is bypassed across the connector. You will need to set the starting address on each PIC however.

Can you program the pic while it is on the board? 
Yes, by using the ICSP header connected to your PIC2 or PIC3 programmer you can program the PIC while it is on the board. Please make sure to note the orientation of pin 1 of the ICSP header (marked by the arrow at the top).

==Schematic==

Here is the schematic drawing for the Ren4Flood v1c in PDF format [[Media:Ren4Flood-v1c.pdf]]

=PCB=
The PCBs for the Ren4Flood were designed by [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/member.php?1986-budude Brian Ullmark (budude)]. The PCB is 4.75" x 2.1". The PCB is available from [http://www.diyledexpress.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=4&products_id=24 DIYLEDExpress.com] 

[[File:Ren4Flood-v1c-PCB1.jpg|300px]] 

----

[[Category:DIYC Controllers]]
[[Category:Renard]]
[[Category:DIYC Index]]

E68X-to-DMX

2012-10-16T07:25:47Z

Budude: /* Assembly */

==E68X-to-DMX Adapter==

The E68X-to-DMX Adapter as the name implies, converts the TTL logic level of the DMX Raw data stream from the E68x controller and converts it to the proper RS-485 levels. The E68x can be configured to send a raw DMX data stream to the first pixel controller connector in a group. The output is a single-ended TTL level (5v) which is not suitable for direct connection to a DMX RS-485 network. This adapter takes that input and converts it to the proper differential output required. This initial version is a simple design and does not emply any isolation at the input or outputs to the RS-485 line. This was done to keep costs to a minimum and keep the board small. Later versions may include full isolation if there's enough demand for it.

----

The current version (v1b) is currently at the working prototype level. After some more testing it will be considered a full production level (or upgraded).

===Schematic===
The schematic is quite simple and contains few parts. It can be made quite cheaply by replacing certain jumpers, etc with wires. The output jumper layout to support both Renard or DMX wiring schemes was taken from member RPM's E1.31-Renard/DMX bridge. Setting all of the jumpers one way uses the pseudo standard RJ45 DMX format with D+/D- on 1/2 and ground on 7. Setting all the jumpers the other way selects Renard format with D+/D- on 4/5 and ground on 1/2. Note that in both cases, it is still DMX output - this just saves you from making a special cable so that straight Cat5 patch cables can be used. The board includes an optional 78L05 voltage regulator that can be used if you exclusively use 12v pixels. This will convert the voltage to 5v for the RS485 chip but can be bypassed if you have 5v pixels.
 
[[File:E68XTODMX-SCH-V1D.jpg|680px|E68XTODMX Schematic]]
 
Here is the current [http://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=8335f174c6 BOM] for the adapter

===Board Layout===
The board layout is very straight forward with a pixel connector and reguator (optional) at one end, an RS-485 chip in the middle and an output jumper setup with RJ45 to DMX connector at the end. Two methods of connections to the E68x are possible. The first consists of a standard 4-contact terminal block that can be wired back to the removable block that plugs into the E68x. The other method consists of running a 20 gauge or so wires down from the board and terminating them directly into a removable block that can be plugged directly into the E68x. This latter method saves on the terminal block and keeps the setup quite neat. Only 3 wires are used (+5v, Ground, Data) but a 4-wire connector was used so it would physically match up to the connector (1.5mm pitch) on the E68x.
 
[[File:E68XTODMX-BRD-V1D.jpg|680px|E68X-DMX Schematic]]
 

===Assembly===
 E68XTODMX KIT 1 CONTENTS
 [[File:E68XTODMX-01.JPG|680px|E68XTODMX KIT1 CONTENTS]]
 E68XTODMX KIT 2 CONTENTS
 [[File:E68XTODMX-02.JPG|680px|E68XTODMX KIT2 CONTENTS]]
 E68XTODMX PCB
 [[File:E68XTODMX-03.JPG|680px|E68XTODMX PCB]]
 Install the 120 ohm resistor - there is no polarity
 Install a wire jumper instead of the 7805 regulator if you are using 5v pixel power - do NOT install if using 12v pixel power
 [[File:E68XTODMX-04.JPG|680px|]]
 Install the three 100nF decoupling capacitors - there is no polarity
 [[File:E68XTODMX-05.JPG|680px|]]
 Install the 8-pin DIP Socket
 [[File:E68XTODMX-06.JPG|680px|]]
 Install the two 2x3 headers horizontally
 [[File:E68XTODMX-07.JPG|680px|]]
 Install the four shunts - all four on left for DMX or all four on right for Renard output wiring
 [[File:E68XTODMX-08.JPG|680px|]]
 If you are not using the 4-pin terminal block, take four pieces of wire and bend the ends over as shown
 [[File:E68XTODMX-09.JPG|680px|]]
 Insert the wires and solder them in
 [[File:E68XTODMX-10.JPG|680px|]]
 Here are the four wires shown from the bottom
 [[File:E68XTODMX-11.JPG|680px|]]
 Trim the four wires to about 1/2" or so
 [[File:E68XTODMX-12.JPG|680px|]]
 Insert the four wires into the Terminal Block provided from your E681
 [[File:E68XTODMX-13.JPG|680px|]]
 Install the RJ45 connector
 [[File:E68XTODMX-14.JPG|680px|]]
 Completed E68XTODMX Adaptor (5v version)
 [[File:E68XTODMX-16.JPG|680px|]]
 If you are using 12V Pixel power, install the 7805 regulator
 [[File:E68XTODMX-17.JPG|680px|]]
 If you are using the 4-pin terminal block, install it now
 [[File:E68XTODMX-18.JPG|680px|]]
 Install the RJ45 connector
 [[File:E68XTODMX-19.JPG|680px|]]

===E68x Configuration===
The E68x should be configured with the following parameters:
*Pixel Type of "DMX PIXEL" - use the command CH X,5 where X is the Group number
*String Count of 1 - use the command ST X,1 where X is the Group number
*Pixel Count of 170 - use the command PI X,170 where X is the Group number

The converter must be plugged into the first connector of the group (1-1, 2-1, 3-1 or 4-1) if you want a full universe (actually 510 channels).

You can also get creative and configure it with 4 strings of up to 42 pixels and use all four connectors in a group and you will end up with four separate DMX streams starting at addresses of 1-126, 127-252, 253-378 and 379-504. Smaller string lengths will result in smaller bundles of DMX addresses. Note that all strings sizes have to be the same length for a given group. Also remember the unit of measurement is pixels or 3-channels - not single channels.

===Converter Configuration===
The four jumpers must be placed all on the left for DMX wiring or all on the right for Renard wiring. You must install all four of the jumpers or install wire jumpers instead for the converter to work properly.

If you are using 5v pixel power on the connector you can jumper out the 78L05 regulator to provide 5v power. If you are using 12v pixel power then be sure to NOT have the bypass jumper installed or it will fry the RS485 chip. It is not recommended to use this board with 24v pixels as it may cause the regulator to overheat.

 

[[Category:DIYC Controllers]]
[[Category:DIYC Index]]

E68X-to-DMX

2012-10-16T07:19:12Z

Budude: /* E68x Configuration */

==E68X-to-DMX Adapter==

The E68X-to-DMX Adapter as the name implies, converts the TTL logic level of the DMX Raw data stream from the E68x controller and converts it to the proper RS-485 levels. The E68x can be configured to send a raw DMX data stream to the first pixel controller connector in a group. The output is a single-ended TTL level (5v) which is not suitable for direct connection to a DMX RS-485 network. This adapter takes that input and converts it to the proper differential output required. This initial version is a simple design and does not emply any isolation at the input or outputs to the RS-485 line. This was done to keep costs to a minimum and keep the board small. Later versions may include full isolation if there's enough demand for it.

----

The current version (v1b) is currently at the working prototype level. After some more testing it will be considered a full production level (or upgraded).

===Schematic===
The schematic is quite simple and contains few parts. It can be made quite cheaply by replacing certain jumpers, etc with wires. The output jumper layout to support both Renard or DMX wiring schemes was taken from member RPM's E1.31-Renard/DMX bridge. Setting all of the jumpers one way uses the pseudo standard RJ45 DMX format with D+/D- on 1/2 and ground on 7. Setting all the jumpers the other way selects Renard format with D+/D- on 4/5 and ground on 1/2. Note that in both cases, it is still DMX output - this just saves you from making a special cable so that straight Cat5 patch cables can be used. The board includes an optional 78L05 voltage regulator that can be used if you exclusively use 12v pixels. This will convert the voltage to 5v for the RS485 chip but can be bypassed if you have 5v pixels.
 
[[File:E68XTODMX-SCH-V1D.jpg|680px|E68XTODMX Schematic]]
 
Here is the current [http://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=8335f174c6 BOM] for the adapter

===Board Layout===
The board layout is very straight forward with a pixel connector and reguator (optional) at one end, an RS-485 chip in the middle and an output jumper setup with RJ45 to DMX connector at the end. Two methods of connections to the E68x are possible. The first consists of a standard 4-contact terminal block that can be wired back to the removable block that plugs into the E68x. The other method consists of running a 20 gauge or so wires down from the board and terminating them directly into a removable block that can be plugged directly into the E68x. This latter method saves on the terminal block and keeps the setup quite neat. Only 3 wires are used (+5v, Ground, Data) but a 4-wire connector was used so it would physically match up to the connector (1.5mm pitch) on the E68x.
 
[[File:E68XTODMX-BRD-V1D.jpg|680px|E68X-DMX Schematic]]
 

===Assembly===
 E68XTODMX KIT 1 CONTENTS
 [[File:E68XTODMX-01.JPG|680px|E68XTODMX KIT1 CONTENTS]]
 E68XTODMX KIT 2 CONTENTS
 [[File:E68XTODMX-02.JPG|680px|E68XTODMX KIT2 CONTENTS]]
 E68XTODMX PCB
 [[File:E68XTODMX-03.JPG|680px|E68XTODMX PCB]]
 Install the 120 ohm resistor - there is no polarity
 Install the jumper instead of the 7805 regulator if you are using 5v pixel power - do NOT install if using 12v pixel power
 [[File:E68XTODMX-04.JPG|680px|]]
 Install the three 100nF decoupling capacitors - there is no polarity
 [[File:E68XTODMX-05.JPG|680px|]]
 Install the 8-pin DIP Socket
 [[File:E68XTODMX-06.JPG|680px|]]
 Install the two 2x3 headers horizontally
 [[File:E68XTODMX-07.JPG|680px|]]
 Install the four shunts - all four on left for DMX or all four on right for Renard output wiring
 [[File:E68XTODMX-08.JPG|680px|]]
 If you are not using the 4-pin terminal block, take four pieces of wire and bend the ends over as shown
 [[File:E68XTODMX-09.JPG|680px|]]
 Insert the wires and solder them in
 [[File:E68XTODMX-10.JPG|680px|]]
 Here are the four wires shown from the bottom
 [[File:E68XTODMX-11.JPG|680px|]]
 Trim the four wires to about 1/2" or so
 [[File:E68XTODMX-12.JPG|680px|]]
 Insert the four wires into the Terminal Block provided from your E681
 [[File:E68XTODMX-13.JPG|680px|]]
 Install the RJ45 connector
 [[File:E68XTODMX-14.JPG|680px|]]
 Completed E68XTODMX Adaptor (5v version)
 [[File:E68XTODMX-16.JPG|680px|]]
 If you are using 12V Pixel power, install the 7805 regulator
 [[File:E68XTODMX-17.JPG|680px|]]
 If you are using the 4-pin terminal block, install it now
 [[File:E68XTODMX-18.JPG|680px|]]
 Install the RJ45 connector
 [[File:E68XTODMX-19.JPG|680px|]]

===E68x Configuration===
The E68x should be configured with the following parameters:
*Pixel Type of "DMX PIXEL" - use the command CH X,5 where X is the Group number
*String Count of 1 - use the command ST X,1 where X is the Group number
*Pixel Count of 170 - use the command PI X,170 where X is the Group number

The converter must be plugged into the first connector of the group (1-1, 2-1, 3-1 or 4-1) if you want a full universe (actually 510 channels).

You can also get creative and configure it with 4 strings of up to 42 pixels and use all four connectors in a group and you will end up with four separate DMX streams starting at addresses of 1-126, 127-252, 253-378 and 379-504. Smaller string lengths will result in smaller bundles of DMX addresses. Note that all strings sizes have to be the same length for a given group. Also remember the unit of measurement is pixels or 3-channels - not single channels.

===Converter Configuration===
The four jumpers must be placed all on the left for DMX wiring or all on the right for Renard wiring. You must install all four of the jumpers or install wire jumpers instead for the converter to work properly.

If you are using 5v pixel power on the connector you can jumper out the 78L05 regulator to provide 5v power. If you are using 12v pixel power then be sure to NOT have the bypass jumper installed or it will fry the RS485 chip. It is not recommended to use this board with 24v pixels as it may cause the regulator to overheat.

 

[[Category:DIYC Controllers]]
[[Category:DIYC Index]]

E68X-to-DMX

2012-10-16T07:15:22Z

Budude: /* Board Layout */

==E68X-to-DMX Adapter==

The E68X-to-DMX Adapter as the name implies, converts the TTL logic level of the DMX Raw data stream from the E68x controller and converts it to the proper RS-485 levels. The E68x can be configured to send a raw DMX data stream to the first pixel controller connector in a group. The output is a single-ended TTL level (5v) which is not suitable for direct connection to a DMX RS-485 network. This adapter takes that input and converts it to the proper differential output required. This initial version is a simple design and does not emply any isolation at the input or outputs to the RS-485 line. This was done to keep costs to a minimum and keep the board small. Later versions may include full isolation if there's enough demand for it.

----

The current version (v1b) is currently at the working prototype level. After some more testing it will be considered a full production level (or upgraded).

===Schematic===
The schematic is quite simple and contains few parts. It can be made quite cheaply by replacing certain jumpers, etc with wires. The output jumper layout to support both Renard or DMX wiring schemes was taken from member RPM's E1.31-Renard/DMX bridge. Setting all of the jumpers one way uses the pseudo standard RJ45 DMX format with D+/D- on 1/2 and ground on 7. Setting all the jumpers the other way selects Renard format with D+/D- on 4/5 and ground on 1/2. Note that in both cases, it is still DMX output - this just saves you from making a special cable so that straight Cat5 patch cables can be used. The board includes an optional 78L05 voltage regulator that can be used if you exclusively use 12v pixels. This will convert the voltage to 5v for the RS485 chip but can be bypassed if you have 5v pixels.
 
[[File:E68XTODMX-SCH-V1D.jpg|680px|E68XTODMX Schematic]]
 
Here is the current [http://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=8335f174c6 BOM] for the adapter

===Board Layout===
The board layout is very straight forward with a pixel connector and reguator (optional) at one end, an RS-485 chip in the middle and an output jumper setup with RJ45 to DMX connector at the end. Two methods of connections to the E68x are possible. The first consists of a standard 4-contact terminal block that can be wired back to the removable block that plugs into the E68x. The other method consists of running a 20 gauge or so wires down from the board and terminating them directly into a removable block that can be plugged directly into the E68x. This latter method saves on the terminal block and keeps the setup quite neat. Only 3 wires are used (+5v, Ground, Data) but a 4-wire connector was used so it would physically match up to the connector (1.5mm pitch) on the E68x.
 
[[File:E68XTODMX-BRD-V1D.jpg|680px|E68X-DMX Schematic]]
 

===Assembly===
 E68XTODMX KIT 1 CONTENTS
 [[File:E68XTODMX-01.JPG|680px|E68XTODMX KIT1 CONTENTS]]
 E68XTODMX KIT 2 CONTENTS
 [[File:E68XTODMX-02.JPG|680px|E68XTODMX KIT2 CONTENTS]]
 E68XTODMX PCB
 [[File:E68XTODMX-03.JPG|680px|E68XTODMX PCB]]
 Install the 120 ohm resistor - there is no polarity
 Install the jumper instead of the 7805 regulator if you are using 5v pixel power - do NOT install if using 12v pixel power
 [[File:E68XTODMX-04.JPG|680px|]]
 Install the three 100nF decoupling capacitors - there is no polarity
 [[File:E68XTODMX-05.JPG|680px|]]
 Install the 8-pin DIP Socket
 [[File:E68XTODMX-06.JPG|680px|]]
 Install the two 2x3 headers horizontally
 [[File:E68XTODMX-07.JPG|680px|]]
 Install the four shunts - all four on left for DMX or all four on right for Renard output wiring
 [[File:E68XTODMX-08.JPG|680px|]]
 If you are not using the 4-pin terminal block, take four pieces of wire and bend the ends over as shown
 [[File:E68XTODMX-09.JPG|680px|]]
 Insert the wires and solder them in
 [[File:E68XTODMX-10.JPG|680px|]]
 Here are the four wires shown from the bottom
 [[File:E68XTODMX-11.JPG|680px|]]
 Trim the four wires to about 1/2" or so
 [[File:E68XTODMX-12.JPG|680px|]]
 Insert the four wires into the Terminal Block provided from your E681
 [[File:E68XTODMX-13.JPG|680px|]]
 Install the RJ45 connector
 [[File:E68XTODMX-14.JPG|680px|]]
 Completed E68XTODMX Adaptor (5v version)
 [[File:E68XTODMX-16.JPG|680px|]]
 If you are using 12V Pixel power, install the 7805 regulator
 [[File:E68XTODMX-17.JPG|680px|]]
 If you are using the 4-pin terminal block, install it now
 [[File:E68XTODMX-18.JPG|680px|]]
 Install the RJ45 connector
 [[File:E68XTODMX-19.JPG|680px|]]

===E68x Configuration===
The E68x should be configured with the following parameters:
*Pixel Type of "DMX PIXEL"
*String Count of 1
*Pixel Count of 170

The converter must be plugged into the first connector of the group (1-1, 2-1, 3-1 or 4-1) if you want a full universe (actually 510 channels).

You can also get creative and configure it with 4 strings of up to 42 pixels and use all four connectors in a group and you will end up with four separate DMX streams starting at addresses of 1-126, 127-252, 253-378 and 379-504. Smaller string lengths will result in smaller bundles of DMX addresses. Note that all strings sizes have to be the same length for a given group. Also remember the unit of measurement is pixels or 3-channels - not single channels.

===Converter Configuration===
The four jumpers must be placed all on the left for DMX wiring or all on the right for Renard wiring. You must install all four of the jumpers or install wire jumpers instead for the converter to work properly.

If you are using 5v pixel power on the connector you can jumper out the 78L05 regulator to provide 5v power. If you are using 12v pixel power then be sure to NOT have the bypass jumper installed or it will fry the RS485 chip. It is not recommended to use this board with 24v pixels as it may cause the regulator to overheat.

 

[[Category:DIYC Controllers]]
[[Category:DIYC Index]]

E68X-to-DMX

2012-10-16T07:14:56Z

Budude: /* Board Layout */

==E68X-to-DMX Adapter==

The E68X-to-DMX Adapter as the name implies, converts the TTL logic level of the DMX Raw data stream from the E68x controller and converts it to the proper RS-485 levels. The E68x can be configured to send a raw DMX data stream to the first pixel controller connector in a group. The output is a single-ended TTL level (5v) which is not suitable for direct connection to a DMX RS-485 network. This adapter takes that input and converts it to the proper differential output required. This initial version is a simple design and does not emply any isolation at the input or outputs to the RS-485 line. This was done to keep costs to a minimum and keep the board small. Later versions may include full isolation if there's enough demand for it.

----

The current version (v1b) is currently at the working prototype level. After some more testing it will be considered a full production level (or upgraded).

===Schematic===
The schematic is quite simple and contains few parts. It can be made quite cheaply by replacing certain jumpers, etc with wires. The output jumper layout to support both Renard or DMX wiring schemes was taken from member RPM's E1.31-Renard/DMX bridge. Setting all of the jumpers one way uses the pseudo standard RJ45 DMX format with D+/D- on 1/2 and ground on 7. Setting all the jumpers the other way selects Renard format with D+/D- on 4/5 and ground on 1/2. Note that in both cases, it is still DMX output - this just saves you from making a special cable so that straight Cat5 patch cables can be used. The board includes an optional 78L05 voltage regulator that can be used if you exclusively use 12v pixels. This will convert the voltage to 5v for the RS485 chip but can be bypassed if you have 5v pixels.
 
[[File:E68XTODMX-SCH-V1D.jpg|680px|E68XTODMX Schematic]]
 
Here is the current [http://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=8335f174c6 BOM] for the adapter

===Board Layout===
The board layout is very straight forward with a pixel connector and reguator (optional) at one end, an RS-485 chip in the middle and an output jumper setup with RJ45 to DMX connector at the end. Two methods of connections to the E68x are possible. The first consists of a standard 4-contact terminal block that can be wired back to the removable block that plugs into the E68x. The other method consists of running a 20 gauge or so wires down from the board and terminating them directly into a removable block that can be plugged directly into the E68x. This latter method saves on the terminal block and keeps the setup quite neat. Only 3 wires are used (+5v, Ground, Data) but a 4-wire connector was used so it would physically match up to the connector (1.5mm pitch) on the E68x.
 
[[File:E68XTODMX-BRD-V1D.JPG|680px|E68X-DMX Schematic]]
 

===Assembly===
 E68XTODMX KIT 1 CONTENTS
 [[File:E68XTODMX-01.JPG|680px|E68XTODMX KIT1 CONTENTS]]
 E68XTODMX KIT 2 CONTENTS
 [[File:E68XTODMX-02.JPG|680px|E68XTODMX KIT2 CONTENTS]]
 E68XTODMX PCB
 [[File:E68XTODMX-03.JPG|680px|E68XTODMX PCB]]
 Install the 120 ohm resistor - there is no polarity
 Install the jumper instead of the 7805 regulator if you are using 5v pixel power - do NOT install if using 12v pixel power
 [[File:E68XTODMX-04.JPG|680px|]]
 Install the three 100nF decoupling capacitors - there is no polarity
 [[File:E68XTODMX-05.JPG|680px|]]
 Install the 8-pin DIP Socket
 [[File:E68XTODMX-06.JPG|680px|]]
 Install the two 2x3 headers horizontally
 [[File:E68XTODMX-07.JPG|680px|]]
 Install the four shunts - all four on left for DMX or all four on right for Renard output wiring
 [[File:E68XTODMX-08.JPG|680px|]]
 If you are not using the 4-pin terminal block, take four pieces of wire and bend the ends over as shown
 [[File:E68XTODMX-09.JPG|680px|]]
 Insert the wires and solder them in
 [[File:E68XTODMX-10.JPG|680px|]]
 Here are the four wires shown from the bottom
 [[File:E68XTODMX-11.JPG|680px|]]
 Trim the four wires to about 1/2" or so
 [[File:E68XTODMX-12.JPG|680px|]]
 Insert the four wires into the Terminal Block provided from your E681
 [[File:E68XTODMX-13.JPG|680px|]]
 Install the RJ45 connector
 [[File:E68XTODMX-14.JPG|680px|]]
 Completed E68XTODMX Adaptor (5v version)
 [[File:E68XTODMX-16.JPG|680px|]]
 If you are using 12V Pixel power, install the 7805 regulator
 [[File:E68XTODMX-17.JPG|680px|]]
 If you are using the 4-pin terminal block, install it now
 [[File:E68XTODMX-18.JPG|680px|]]
 Install the RJ45 connector
 [[File:E68XTODMX-19.JPG|680px|]]

===E68x Configuration===
The E68x should be configured with the following parameters:
*Pixel Type of "DMX PIXEL"
*String Count of 1
*Pixel Count of 170

The converter must be plugged into the first connector of the group (1-1, 2-1, 3-1 or 4-1) if you want a full universe (actually 510 channels).

You can also get creative and configure it with 4 strings of up to 42 pixels and use all four connectors in a group and you will end up with four separate DMX streams starting at addresses of 1-126, 127-252, 253-378 and 379-504. Smaller string lengths will result in smaller bundles of DMX addresses. Note that all strings sizes have to be the same length for a given group. Also remember the unit of measurement is pixels or 3-channels - not single channels.

===Converter Configuration===
The four jumpers must be placed all on the left for DMX wiring or all on the right for Renard wiring. You must install all four of the jumpers or install wire jumpers instead for the converter to work properly.

If you are using 5v pixel power on the connector you can jumper out the 78L05 regulator to provide 5v power. If you are using 12v pixel power then be sure to NOT have the bypass jumper installed or it will fry the RS485 chip. It is not recommended to use this board with 24v pixels as it may cause the regulator to overheat.

 

[[Category:DIYC Controllers]]
[[Category:DIYC Index]]

E68X-to-DMX

2012-10-16T07:14:30Z

Budude: /* Schematic */

==E68X-to-DMX Adapter==

The E68X-to-DMX Adapter as the name implies, converts the TTL logic level of the DMX Raw data stream from the E68x controller and converts it to the proper RS-485 levels. The E68x can be configured to send a raw DMX data stream to the first pixel controller connector in a group. The output is a single-ended TTL level (5v) which is not suitable for direct connection to a DMX RS-485 network. This adapter takes that input and converts it to the proper differential output required. This initial version is a simple design and does not emply any isolation at the input or outputs to the RS-485 line. This was done to keep costs to a minimum and keep the board small. Later versions may include full isolation if there's enough demand for it.

----

The current version (v1b) is currently at the working prototype level. After some more testing it will be considered a full production level (or upgraded).

===Schematic===
The schematic is quite simple and contains few parts. It can be made quite cheaply by replacing certain jumpers, etc with wires. The output jumper layout to support both Renard or DMX wiring schemes was taken from member RPM's E1.31-Renard/DMX bridge. Setting all of the jumpers one way uses the pseudo standard RJ45 DMX format with D+/D- on 1/2 and ground on 7. Setting all the jumpers the other way selects Renard format with D+/D- on 4/5 and ground on 1/2. Note that in both cases, it is still DMX output - this just saves you from making a special cable so that straight Cat5 patch cables can be used. The board includes an optional 78L05 voltage regulator that can be used if you exclusively use 12v pixels. This will convert the voltage to 5v for the RS485 chip but can be bypassed if you have 5v pixels.
 
[[File:E68XTODMX-SCH-V1D.jpg|680px|E68XTODMX Schematic]]
 
Here is the current [http://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=8335f174c6 BOM] for the adapter

===Board Layout===
The board layout is very straight forward with a pixel connector and reguator (optional) at one end, an RS-485 chip in the middle and an output jumper setup with RJ45 to DMX connector at the end. Two methods of connections to the E68x are possible. The first consists of a standard 4-contact terminal block that can be wired back to the removable block that plugs into the E68x. The other method consists of running a 20 gauge or so wires down from the board and terminating them directly into a removable block that can be plugged directly into the E68x. This latter method saves on the terminal block and keeps the setup quite neat. Only 3 wires are used (+5v, Ground, Data) but a 4-wire connector was used so it would physically match up to the connector (1.5mm pitch) on the E68x.
 
[[File:E68X-DMX-BRD-v1b.jpg|680px|E68X-DMX Schematic]]
 

===Assembly===
 E68XTODMX KIT 1 CONTENTS
 [[File:E68XTODMX-01.JPG|680px|E68XTODMX KIT1 CONTENTS]]
 E68XTODMX KIT 2 CONTENTS
 [[File:E68XTODMX-02.JPG|680px|E68XTODMX KIT2 CONTENTS]]
 E68XTODMX PCB
 [[File:E68XTODMX-03.JPG|680px|E68XTODMX PCB]]
 Install the 120 ohm resistor - there is no polarity
 Install the jumper instead of the 7805 regulator if you are using 5v pixel power - do NOT install if using 12v pixel power
 [[File:E68XTODMX-04.JPG|680px|]]
 Install the three 100nF decoupling capacitors - there is no polarity
 [[File:E68XTODMX-05.JPG|680px|]]
 Install the 8-pin DIP Socket
 [[File:E68XTODMX-06.JPG|680px|]]
 Install the two 2x3 headers horizontally
 [[File:E68XTODMX-07.JPG|680px|]]
 Install the four shunts - all four on left for DMX or all four on right for Renard output wiring
 [[File:E68XTODMX-08.JPG|680px|]]
 If you are not using the 4-pin terminal block, take four pieces of wire and bend the ends over as shown
 [[File:E68XTODMX-09.JPG|680px|]]
 Insert the wires and solder them in
 [[File:E68XTODMX-10.JPG|680px|]]
 Here are the four wires shown from the bottom
 [[File:E68XTODMX-11.JPG|680px|]]
 Trim the four wires to about 1/2" or so
 [[File:E68XTODMX-12.JPG|680px|]]
 Insert the four wires into the Terminal Block provided from your E681
 [[File:E68XTODMX-13.JPG|680px|]]
 Install the RJ45 connector
 [[File:E68XTODMX-14.JPG|680px|]]
 Completed E68XTODMX Adaptor (5v version)
 [[File:E68XTODMX-16.JPG|680px|]]
 If you are using 12V Pixel power, install the 7805 regulator
 [[File:E68XTODMX-17.JPG|680px|]]
 If you are using the 4-pin terminal block, install it now
 [[File:E68XTODMX-18.JPG|680px|]]
 Install the RJ45 connector
 [[File:E68XTODMX-19.JPG|680px|]]

===E68x Configuration===
The E68x should be configured with the following parameters:
*Pixel Type of "DMX PIXEL"
*String Count of 1
*Pixel Count of 170

The converter must be plugged into the first connector of the group (1-1, 2-1, 3-1 or 4-1) if you want a full universe (actually 510 channels).

You can also get creative and configure it with 4 strings of up to 42 pixels and use all four connectors in a group and you will end up with four separate DMX streams starting at addresses of 1-126, 127-252, 253-378 and 379-504. Smaller string lengths will result in smaller bundles of DMX addresses. Note that all strings sizes have to be the same length for a given group. Also remember the unit of measurement is pixels or 3-channels - not single channels.

===Converter Configuration===
The four jumpers must be placed all on the left for DMX wiring or all on the right for Renard wiring. You must install all four of the jumpers or install wire jumpers instead for the converter to work properly.

If you are using 5v pixel power on the connector you can jumper out the 78L05 regulator to provide 5v power. If you are using 12v pixel power then be sure to NOT have the bypass jumper installed or it will fry the RS485 chip. It is not recommended to use this board with 24v pixels as it may cause the regulator to overheat.

 

[[Category:DIYC Controllers]]
[[Category:DIYC Index]]

File:E68XTODMX-BRD-V1D.jpg

2012-10-16T07:13:36Z

Budude:

File:E68XTODMX-SCH-V1D.jpg

2012-10-16T07:13:17Z

Budude:

E68X-to-DMX

2012-10-16T07:09:38Z

Budude: /* Assembly */

==E68X-to-DMX Adapter==

The E68X-to-DMX Adapter as the name implies, converts the TTL logic level of the DMX Raw data stream from the E68x controller and converts it to the proper RS-485 levels. The E68x can be configured to send a raw DMX data stream to the first pixel controller connector in a group. The output is a single-ended TTL level (5v) which is not suitable for direct connection to a DMX RS-485 network. This adapter takes that input and converts it to the proper differential output required. This initial version is a simple design and does not emply any isolation at the input or outputs to the RS-485 line. This was done to keep costs to a minimum and keep the board small. Later versions may include full isolation if there's enough demand for it.

----

The current version (v1b) is currently at the working prototype level. After some more testing it will be considered a full production level (or upgraded).

===Schematic===
The schematic is quite simple and contains few parts. It can be made quite cheaply by replacing certain jumpers, etc with wires. The output jumper layout to support both Renard or DMX wiring schemes was taken from member RPM's E1.31-Renard/DMX bridge. Setting all of the jumpers one way uses the pseudo standard RJ45 DMX format with D+/D- on 1/2 and ground on 7. Setting all the jumpers the other way selects Renard format with D+/D- on 4/5 and ground on 1/2. Note that in both cases, it is still DMX output - this just saves you from making a special cable so that straight Cat5 patch cables can be used. The board includes an optional 78L05 voltage regulator that can be used if you exclusively use 12v pixels. This will convert the voltage to 5v for the RS485 chip but can be bypassed if you have 5v pixels.
 
[[File:E68X-DMX-SCH-v1b.jpg|680px|E68X-DMX Schematic]]
 
Here is the current [http://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=8335f174c6 BOM] for the adapter

===Board Layout===
The board layout is very straight forward with a pixel connector and reguator (optional) at one end, an RS-485 chip in the middle and an output jumper setup with RJ45 to DMX connector at the end. Two methods of connections to the E68x are possible. The first consists of a standard 4-contact terminal block that can be wired back to the removable block that plugs into the E68x. The other method consists of running a 20 gauge or so wires down from the board and terminating them directly into a removable block that can be plugged directly into the E68x. This latter method saves on the terminal block and keeps the setup quite neat. Only 3 wires are used (+5v, Ground, Data) but a 4-wire connector was used so it would physically match up to the connector (1.5mm pitch) on the E68x.
 
[[File:E68X-DMX-BRD-v1b.jpg|680px|E68X-DMX Schematic]]
 

===Assembly===
 E68XTODMX KIT 1 CONTENTS
 [[File:E68XTODMX-01.JPG|680px|E68XTODMX KIT1 CONTENTS]]
 E68XTODMX KIT 2 CONTENTS
 [[File:E68XTODMX-02.JPG|680px|E68XTODMX KIT2 CONTENTS]]
 E68XTODMX PCB
 [[File:E68XTODMX-03.JPG|680px|E68XTODMX PCB]]
 Install the 120 ohm resistor - there is no polarity
 Install the jumper instead of the 7805 regulator if you are using 5v pixel power - do NOT install if using 12v pixel power
 [[File:E68XTODMX-04.JPG|680px|]]
 Install the three 100nF decoupling capacitors - there is no polarity
 [[File:E68XTODMX-05.JPG|680px|]]
 Install the 8-pin DIP Socket
 [[File:E68XTODMX-06.JPG|680px|]]
 Install the two 2x3 headers horizontally
 [[File:E68XTODMX-07.JPG|680px|]]
 Install the four shunts - all four on left for DMX or all four on right for Renard output wiring
 [[File:E68XTODMX-08.JPG|680px|]]
 If you are not using the 4-pin terminal block, take four pieces of wire and bend the ends over as shown
 [[File:E68XTODMX-09.JPG|680px|]]
 Insert the wires and solder them in
 [[File:E68XTODMX-10.JPG|680px|]]
 Here are the four wires shown from the bottom
 [[File:E68XTODMX-11.JPG|680px|]]
 Trim the four wires to about 1/2" or so
 [[File:E68XTODMX-12.JPG|680px|]]
 Insert the four wires into the Terminal Block provided from your E681
 [[File:E68XTODMX-13.JPG|680px|]]
 Install the RJ45 connector
 [[File:E68XTODMX-14.JPG|680px|]]
 Completed E68XTODMX Adaptor (5v version)
 [[File:E68XTODMX-16.JPG|680px|]]
 If you are using 12V Pixel power, install the 7805 regulator
 [[File:E68XTODMX-17.JPG|680px|]]
 If you are using the 4-pin terminal block, install it now
 [[File:E68XTODMX-18.JPG|680px|]]
 Install the RJ45 connector
 [[File:E68XTODMX-19.JPG|680px|]]

===E68x Configuration===
The E68x should be configured with the following parameters:
*Pixel Type of "DMX PIXEL"
*String Count of 1
*Pixel Count of 170

The converter must be plugged into the first connector of the group (1-1, 2-1, 3-1 or 4-1) if you want a full universe (actually 510 channels).

You can also get creative and configure it with 4 strings of up to 42 pixels and use all four connectors in a group and you will end up with four separate DMX streams starting at addresses of 1-126, 127-252, 253-378 and 379-504. Smaller string lengths will result in smaller bundles of DMX addresses. Note that all strings sizes have to be the same length for a given group. Also remember the unit of measurement is pixels or 3-channels - not single channels.

===Converter Configuration===
The four jumpers must be placed all on the left for DMX wiring or all on the right for Renard wiring. You must install all four of the jumpers or install wire jumpers instead for the converter to work properly.

If you are using 5v pixel power on the connector you can jumper out the 78L05 regulator to provide 5v power. If you are using 12v pixel power then be sure to NOT have the bypass jumper installed or it will fry the RS485 chip. It is not recommended to use this board with 24v pixels as it may cause the regulator to overheat.

 

[[Category:DIYC Controllers]]
[[Category:DIYC Index]]

E68X-to-DMX

2012-10-16T06:55:05Z

Budude: /* Assembly */

==E68X-to-DMX Adapter==

The E68X-to-DMX Adapter as the name implies, converts the TTL logic level of the DMX Raw data stream from the E68x controller and converts it to the proper RS-485 levels. The E68x can be configured to send a raw DMX data stream to the first pixel controller connector in a group. The output is a single-ended TTL level (5v) which is not suitable for direct connection to a DMX RS-485 network. This adapter takes that input and converts it to the proper differential output required. This initial version is a simple design and does not emply any isolation at the input or outputs to the RS-485 line. This was done to keep costs to a minimum and keep the board small. Later versions may include full isolation if there's enough demand for it.

----

The current version (v1b) is currently at the working prototype level. After some more testing it will be considered a full production level (or upgraded).

===Schematic===
The schematic is quite simple and contains few parts. It can be made quite cheaply by replacing certain jumpers, etc with wires. The output jumper layout to support both Renard or DMX wiring schemes was taken from member RPM's E1.31-Renard/DMX bridge. Setting all of the jumpers one way uses the pseudo standard RJ45 DMX format with D+/D- on 1/2 and ground on 7. Setting all the jumpers the other way selects Renard format with D+/D- on 4/5 and ground on 1/2. Note that in both cases, it is still DMX output - this just saves you from making a special cable so that straight Cat5 patch cables can be used. The board includes an optional 78L05 voltage regulator that can be used if you exclusively use 12v pixels. This will convert the voltage to 5v for the RS485 chip but can be bypassed if you have 5v pixels.
 
[[File:E68X-DMX-SCH-v1b.jpg|680px|E68X-DMX Schematic]]
 
Here is the current [http://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=8335f174c6 BOM] for the adapter

===Board Layout===
The board layout is very straight forward with a pixel connector and reguator (optional) at one end, an RS-485 chip in the middle and an output jumper setup with RJ45 to DMX connector at the end. Two methods of connections to the E68x are possible. The first consists of a standard 4-contact terminal block that can be wired back to the removable block that plugs into the E68x. The other method consists of running a 20 gauge or so wires down from the board and terminating them directly into a removable block that can be plugged directly into the E68x. This latter method saves on the terminal block and keeps the setup quite neat. Only 3 wires are used (+5v, Ground, Data) but a 4-wire connector was used so it would physically match up to the connector (1.5mm pitch) on the E68x.
 
[[File:E68X-DMX-BRD-v1b.jpg|680px|E68X-DMX Schematic]]
 

===Assembly===
[[File:E68XTODMX-01.JPG|680px|E68XTODMX KIT1 CONTENTS]]
[[File:E68XTODMX-02.JPG|680px|E68XTODMX KIT2 CONTENTS]]
[[File:E68XTODMX-03.JPG|680px|E68XTODMX PCB]]
Install the 120 ohm resistor
Install the jumper if you are using 5v pixel power - do NOT install if using 12v pixel power
[[File:E68XTODMX-04.JPG|680px|E68XTODMX KIT1 CONTENTS]]
[[File:E68XTODMX-05.JPG|680px|E68XTODMX KIT1 CONTENTS]]
[[File:E68XTODMX-06.JPG|680px|E68XTODMX KIT1 CONTENTS]]
[[File:E68XTODMX-07.JPG|680px|E68XTODMX KIT1 CONTENTS]]
[[File:E68XTODMX-08.JPG|680px|E68XTODMX KIT1 CONTENTS]]
[[File:E68XTODMX-09.JPG|680px|E68XTODMX KIT1 CONTENTS]]
[[File:E68XTODMX-10.JPG|680px|E68XTODMX KIT1 CONTENTS]]
[[File:E68XTODMX-11.JPG|680px|E68XTODMX KIT1 CONTENTS]]
[[File:E68XTODMX-12.JPG|680px|E68XTODMX KIT1 CONTENTS]]
[[File:E68XTODMX-13.JPG|680px|E68XTODMX KIT1 CONTENTS]]
[[File:E68XTODMX-14.JPG|680px|E68XTODMX KIT1 CONTENTS]]
[[File:E68XTODMX-16.JPG|680px|E68XTODMX KIT1 CONTENTS]]
[[File:E68XTODMX-17.JPG|680px|E68XTODMX KIT1 CONTENTS]]
[[File:E68XTODMX-18.JPG|680px|E68XTODMX KIT1 CONTENTS]]
[[File:E68XTODMX-19.JPG|680px|E68XTODMX KIT1 CONTENTS]]

===E68x Configuration===
The E68x should be configured with the following parameters:
*Pixel Type of "DMX PIXEL"
*String Count of 1
*Pixel Count of 170

The converter must be plugged into the first connector of the group (1-1, 2-1, 3-1 or 4-1) if you want a full universe (actually 510 channels).

You can also get creative and configure it with 4 strings of up to 42 pixels and use all four connectors in a group and you will end up with four separate DMX streams starting at addresses of 1-126, 127-252, 253-378 and 379-504. Smaller string lengths will result in smaller bundles of DMX addresses. Note that all strings sizes have to be the same length for a given group. Also remember the unit of measurement is pixels or 3-channels - not single channels.

===Converter Configuration===
The four jumpers must be placed all on the left for DMX wiring or all on the right for Renard wiring. You must install all four of the jumpers or install wire jumpers instead for the converter to work properly.

If you are using 5v pixel power on the connector you can jumper out the 78L05 regulator to provide 5v power. If you are using 12v pixel power then be sure to NOT have the bypass jumper installed or it will fry the RS485 chip. It is not recommended to use this board with 24v pixels as it may cause the regulator to overheat.

 

[[Category:DIYC Controllers]]
[[Category:DIYC Index]]

E68X-to-DMX

2012-10-16T06:52:25Z

Budude: /* Assembly */

E68X-to-DMX

2012-10-16T06:51:01Z

Budude: /* E68x Configuration */

File:FloodSplitter-05.JPG

2012-10-16T06:49:40Z

Budude:

File:FloodSplitter-04.JPG

2012-10-16T06:49:29Z

Budude:

File:FloodSplitter-03.JPG

2012-10-16T06:49:18Z

Budude:

File:FloodSplitter-02.JPG

2012-10-16T06:49:06Z

Budude: