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		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Dirknerkle: /* What is the Start Address? */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;== Background ==&lt;br /&gt;
:One of the main goals of the original Renard controller design was simplicity, and it was the original intent that all Renard controllers were identical, 8-channel units. Simplicity allowed for a person to expand a system simply by building and plugging in another 8-channel controller; 8 would then become 16, 16 would become 24, etc. Because the controllers were identical they were also interchangeable – it didn’t matter which was the first one and which the second or third one. There was no need for the user to set an address for this controller or that controller; it was simply “plug in and go.” However, with the advent of 16, 24, and even 64-channel Renard controllers, the concept has expanded over the years and has evolved into increasingly complex networks of controllers and thousands of feet or even miles of wires. But the original firmware that has been used in the Renard system has remained simple and unaddressable. Until now.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== What is the Start Address? ==&lt;br /&gt;
:The start address is a new feature of Renard firmware that makes a single Renard controller addressable.  Not in the purest sense such as an IP address or network name, but in a relative sense to the channel information that is sent to it. The feature allows a Renard controller to start decoding channels at a specific channel out of an entire range of channels. For example, instead of a controller automatically displaying channels 1-24, it can be set to skip channels 1-24 and start with channel 25 instead. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:The feature is primarily designed to aid those who use wireless communications in their light displays (although it can also be used with wired RS-485 systems). With wireless, it’s easy to broadcast all channels; all receivers in range of the transmitter will then pick up the same signal simultaneously. The start address provides a way for a wireless controller to begin decoding data at a specific channel out of the entire broadcast set of channels.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::&#039;&#039;&#039;IMPORTANT:&#039;&#039;&#039; The information provided here was intended to be used with the popular PIC16F688 chip that most Renard controllers use. While the general concepts apply to all Renard-type firmware, the actual start address and its relationship to the actual channel may be different for chips other than the PIC16F688. For example, note that for the PIC16F1825 chip (which was implemented later) the start address begins at 1 for channel 1 whereas the start address for the 16F688 began at 0 for channel 1. To convert the information below to apply to the PIC16F1825 chip, simply increment the stated start address by one.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Who should use it? ==&lt;br /&gt;
:The Renard start address feature is considered to be an advanced concept and is very likely to be quite confusing to someone new to DIY lighting controls. To successfully implement the feature, a solid understanding of how Renard controllers function normally is extremely important. One must also know how to modify assembly language program code, how to compile the code into HEX format and flash a PIC with the updated firmware.  It’s good to remember that if you make a mistake with the start address, you can always restore your Renard controller to normal operation by reflashing the PIC with the original Renard firmware.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Renard Start Address Concepts ==&lt;br /&gt;
:For the sake of explanation, consider a typical 32-channel Renard system utilizing a computer and four identical 8-channel controllers where the computer’s control signal connects to the first controller and all the other controllers are in a daisy-chain configuration, such as the example below. &lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Startaddr1.JPG]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:Our example uses an 8-channel controller because it has only a single PIC16F688 chip, which will be critical to understanding how to set the starting address feature later on. Another helpful concept is to remember that many Renard controllers can be connected to a single serial port and that there’s a limit to the total number of channels a single port can handle, and this is generally based on the sequence timing you use in Vixen. This is important because the starting address pertains to all the channels that come from a single serial port. If you use both COM1 and COM2, the starting addresses for controllers on COM1 are independent from starting addresses for controllers on COM2.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:Let’s change the normal Renard layout by connecting a 4-way splitter to the serial cable and then plugging each of the four 8-channel controllers into the splitter so that all four controllers can receive the same 32-channel signals simultaneously in a sort of “serial broadcast.” In this example, each controller uses the first eight channels of the 32-channel data and passes the remaining channels to the next controller – except the controllers aren’t connected to one another! Therefore, in this layout, each 8-channel controller gets only the first 8 channels and channels 9-32 don’t go anywhere because there is no “daisy chain” of controllers – each is an individual, standalone controller and has nowhere to pass the unused channel information along.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Startaddr2.JPG]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:Now let’s reflash the PIC in each controller with a “start address” that tells the PIC that instead of automatically taking the first channels it gets, to start decoding data at a different channel number instead. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:::•	Address 0 means normal operation.&lt;br /&gt;
:::•	Address 1 means start with channel 9 (skip channels 1-8)&lt;br /&gt;
:::•	Address 2 means start with channel 17 (skip channels 1-16)&lt;br /&gt;
:::•	Address 3 means start with channel 25 (skip channels 1-24)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Startaddr3.JPG]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::Now all 32 channels are in use again.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:Let’s switch gears again and replace the 32-channel setup with a 64-channel wireless model where all 64-channels are broadcast wirelessly from the computer and each 8-channel wireless controller is configured using individual starting addresses from the full 64-channel broadcast. Using identical controllers makes it easy to calculate the starting address for each unit. (This particular design would also require that all Ren-W wireless adapters be configured with the same PAN ID and no individual XBee radio addressing would be used at all. This is the purest “global broadcast” mode possible and one of the simplest ways to implement a Ren-W network yet retain individual controller channel assignments.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:64-channel_setup.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:The start address concept is most effective when all channel information can be distributed to all controllers simultaneously and is a perfect fit for those who use Ren-W wireless adapters.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== How to calculate the start address ==&lt;br /&gt;
:The formula for the start address is &#039;&#039;&#039;A=(C-1)/8&#039;&#039;&#039; where C is a channel number that you want the controller to start with. Examples: 9, 17, 25, 33, 41, 49, 57, etc. Do you notice that the channel number is always one more than a number evenly divisible by eight? This is because each PIC in a typical Renard controller controls 8 channels. Therefore, the last channel number in a Renard controller is always a factor of 8 and why the next channel number is 1 greater.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Multi-PIC Controllers ==&lt;br /&gt;
:So far, the examples have used only 8-channel controllers that use a single PIC. When you use controllers that have multiple PICs, the formula works the same way. Let’s examine a 64-channel system using four 16-channel wireless Renards. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::* Apply the formula: A=(C-1)/8 for the first controller: 1 – 1 = 0, then 0/8 = 0 so the start address of the first controller is zero. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::* We want the 2nd controller to start with channel 17, so applying the A=(C-1)/8 formula, we get a start address 2 for the 2nd controller: 17-1= 16, divide 16/8 = 2.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::* We want the 3rd controller to start with channel 33, and applying the formula we get a start address of 4: (33 – 1 = 32, then 32/8 = 4).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::* The 4th controller will start with channel 49, and we calculate that start address at 6: (49 – 1 = 48, then 48/8 = 6).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Startaddr5.JPG]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:Here’s an example of a 96-channel wireless design using four, 24-channel controllers. Applying the A=(C-1)/8 formula we arrive at start address 0, 3, 6 and 9 for the four controllers.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Startaddr6.JPG]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Mixing controllers with different channel counts ==&lt;br /&gt;
:When start addresses are used with controllers of varying channel counts, just use the formula to calculate the start address for each controller one controller at a time. In this 80-channel design with 5 controllers, in L-R order each controller’s channel counts are 24, 8, 16, 24 and 8. You can do the math yourself.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Startaddr7.JPG]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:It’s obviously a good idea to pre-plan your display and assign controllers to various portions of your display depending on the number of channels you need in each location. As you do that, you’ll find it helpful to label each controller in some way to denote where in the display it will be, the expected channels it will use and its start address. This will make it easier later on when/if something isn’t working right. Without labeling the controller, there will be no outwardly visible way to know what it’s supposed to be doing except by watching its lights.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== How to Set the Start Address ==&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;&#039;You will need:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
:::•	Renard firmware version 20090915.asm. (You can get it here: [[Media:Renard-20090915.asm]])&lt;br /&gt;
:::•	A text editor such as Windows Notepad.&lt;br /&gt;
:::•	MPASM, or other Microchip-compatible compiler to generate the HEX code for the PICs&lt;br /&gt;
:::•	A PIC programmer for PIC16F688 chips.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;&#039;Step-by-step procedure:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
::1.	Open the ASM file using the text editor and find the following section of code (it will be one of the earliest sections of the code following the copyright information):&lt;br /&gt;
:::::START_ADDR should normally be 0.  It is changed to another value if you &lt;br /&gt;
:::::wish for the particular PIC to ignore a certain number of (8-byte) records &lt;br /&gt;
:::::at the start of a frame (for wireless operation, mostly). &lt;br /&gt;
:::::define START_ADDR 0&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:2.	Change the number at the end of the &#039;&#039;&#039;define START_ADDR line&#039;&#039;&#039;. The number you enter must be an integer. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:3.	Save the file.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:4.	Open MPASM, be sure it is configured for the 16F688 chip, use the BROWSE button to find the Source File Name of your ASM file (the example here is start_addr.asm)   &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Startaddr8.JPG | 450px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:5.	Click the Assemble button. You may encounter warning messages such as in the example below, and these are expected. But if there are no errors you should be fine. Click the OK button to complete the operation.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Startaddr9.JPG | 200px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:6.	Open the PIC programmer and flash the designated PIC with the resulting HEX file you just assembled. Remember, this should be the FIRST PIC in a controller that has more than one PIC chip.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:7.	Insert the PIC back in your controller. Be sure to label the controller so that you know the start address and the expected channels it will use.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;&#039;Time Saver Suggestion:&#039;&#039;&#039; if you know that you will have many controllers with special start addresses but you don’t yet know what they are, after you compile the first ASM into HEX code, rename the resulting HEX file afterward with something that denotes what the starting address of that file is and simply repeat the process, changing the value, saving the file, recompiling into HEX, etc. and create multiple HEX files, such as in the example to the right. You may not use all of them, but they’ll always be available for you to quickly reflash a PIC whenever necessary. In this example, startaddr-34.HEX equates to 34 x 8 = 272 channels, virtually at the top of the recommended maximum for a single serial port using 57,600bps and sequencing at 50ms intervals.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::::[[File:Startaddr10.JPG | 300px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Common Questions &amp;amp; Answers ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;&#039;Which PIC gets the start address?&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
:Only the &#039;&#039;first&#039;&#039; PIC in each controller. If you don’t know which PIC that is or it isn’t marked, follow the circuit board tracings from the channel 1 output back to its PIC.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;&#039;Can I set the address in more than one PIC on a controller?&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
:Technically yes, but in practice, don’t do it. It may make it very difficult for you to analyze what’s going on in your display afterward. Set the start address only on the first PIC and leave the others alone.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;&#039;Do I need to do anything special in Vixen?&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
:No, just sequence like you normally do. It may be helpful to create a special sort order for the Vixen profile so that channels can be viewed together &#039;&#039;by controller&#039;&#039; instead of by color or location in the display. The idea is to have some method for cross-referencing various channels to various controllers for troubleshooting purposes. An alternative method would be to create a testing sequence that activates all channels on a single controller for a few seconds, then move to another controller, etc. In any event, you&#039;ll probably want some method to test the layout to make sure the controllers have the right addresses and you see what you expect to see. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;&#039;What if I need to replace a controller in my display?&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
:Use another Renard controller of the same channel count that has the first PIC flashed with the same START_ADDR and simply plug it in.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;&#039;Can I flash the PIC in my Renard controller &#039;&#039;in-circuit?&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
:Unless you have added in-circuit programming capability to your controller or have built a special cable/connector that can clamp onto the PIC&#039;s pins, you will have to remove the first PIC and flash it with your PIC Programmer as you normally would. The concept of adding an in-circuit header to a Renard controller is a good one – perhaps someone will come up with a DIY solution in the future!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;&#039;If I move a controller in my display, should I change the start address, too?&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
:Maybe. It depends on what channels you want the controller to use.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;&#039;Can I change my XBee modules’ PAN ID addresses, too?&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
:Yes, and in some cases it may actually be required. For example, if you have two serial ports and plan to broadcast channel controls out on both, you will need to use two PAN IDs, one for each port. If you used the same PAN ID for both ports, the XBee receivers will get very confused when they get transmissions from two sources simultaneously! Remember, only XBee radios that use the same PAN ID can communicate with one another. If you experience interference even when using different PAN IDs, you can also change the XBee channel setting to use a different channel.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;&#039;Does the Ren-C have start address capability?&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
:No. The start address pertains only to the firmware for the 16F688 chip; the Ren-C uses different firmware for its 16F627A chip. However, if you think outside the box a little, you can certainly have a start address on the controller immediately before the Ren-C and daisy chain the Ren-C off of that controller. For example, you might set the start address for an SS8 controller to 6 so that the SS8 begins at channel 49, connect the Ren-C/595 to the SS8’s RS-OUT jack and the Ren-C/595 would then become channels 57-120. (Of course, remember that the Ren-C still requires a ZC signal as well.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;&#039;Does the start address work with DMX?&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
:No, DMX has its own addressing scheme.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;&#039;How do I disable the start address?&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
:Either reflash the chip with a version that has the START_ADDR set to zero or reflash using the original 16F688 firmware that doesn’t include the start address option.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;&#039;Does the start address work with the Renard diagnostic firmware?&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
:No. The diagnostic firmware does not have the start address capability.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;&#039;How do I test the controller to determine if I used the right start address?&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
:If your controller has diagnostic LEDs, remember that they react to channels 2, 5-6-7-8. For example, if the controller’s start address is set to 6, channel 1 on that controller is actually Vixen channel 49. Therefore, channels 2, 5-6-7-8 are using Vixen channels 50, 53-54-55-56 and you should be able to use the Vixen channel test function to turn on the diagnostic LEDs one at a time. (We’re assuming that all channels are on the same serial port for this example.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;&#039;I use several serial ports on my PC. How do I know what address to use?&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
:This is where it gets confusing and you literally have to map it out on paper. Let’s say that you have two COM ports, and each port carries 128 channels for a total of 256 channels on your Vixen screen. Luckily, Vixen only allows defining a contiguous group of channels to a specific plugin and the plugin is assigned to its own port, so it shouldn’t be too difficult to identify which Vixen channels go to which port. Let’s assume in this example that Vixen channels 1-128 are assigned to COM1 and channels 129-256 are assigned to COM2. A Renard controller doesn’t know which port its channels are coming from; it only knows that channel information is coming to it. Therefore, the start address is relative to the total number of channels on that port. So in this example with 128 channels on COM1 and another 128 on COM2, a controller that has a start address of 2 would start with Vixen channel 17 if it were being controlled via COM1 but would start with Vixen channel 145 (128 + 17) if it were being controlled via COM2.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:The bottom line with using multiple serial ports is that you need to know which controllers are being controlled from each port, and assign the controllers their own order relative to that port. So while you may have sixteen, 16-channel Renard controllers in your display, it may help your organization to think of them as 1A, 2A, 3A etc. and 1B, 2B, 3B, etc. where eight are assigned to port A and the other eight assigned to port B.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:In any event, this takes some careful thought, a pencil and a pad of paper to carefully map out which controllers are where in your display, which port is being used to control them, how many channels each has and what the start_addr will be. It’s certainly not difficult math, but it does require some clear thinking.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;&#039;Is it possible to overlap channels by use of the start address?&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
:Yes, but you run the risk of orphaning channels later on. Let’s say that you had 72 channels in use on three, 24-channel controllers and you decided to change and use the 3rd controller to double-up on channels 41-48 to handle some extra lights and the resulting extra electrical current required.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:::* Controller #1: channels 1-24, start address = 0  (calculation: 1 – 1 = 0, then 0/8 = 0)&lt;br /&gt;
:::* Controller #2: channels 25-48, start address = 3 (calculation: 25 – 1 = 24, then 24/8 = 3)&lt;br /&gt;
:::* Controller #3: channels 41-64, start address = 5 (calculation: 41 – 1 = 40, then 40/8 = 5)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::Suddenly channels 65-72 don’t come on because by overlapping 8 channels, you’ve effectively reduced the total channel coverage from 72 down to 64. The point is that overlapping can cause some unexpected results, but it is certainly possible. You just have to plan for it.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;&#039;Can any channel be the start address?&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
:No, because the PICs in Renard controllers are 8-bit chips and therefore, the firmware requires that the address is based on 8-channel boundaries. However, you can simulate other start addresses by configuring the address so that the controller covers the desired channel(s) you want but then don’t plug any lights into the controller for channels you don’t want. For example, an address of 2 starts with channel 17, but if you really only want lights on channels 21-24, only plug lights into channels 21-24 and leave the others empty. This wastes a little capacity, of course, but nobody ever said that you always have to plug lights into every channel on a controller – you may decide to use only some channels while leaving others without lights plugged into them. It has the same end effect.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;&#039;Can I use the start address with my wired controllers?&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
:Yes, and if you chain other controllers off of the specially addressed one, they will behave normally just like you’d expect them to. Also remember that it’s possible to skip channels completely, too. For example, if you have two 24 channel controllers and you want one of them to use start address 0 (for channels 1-24) and the other controller at start address 6 (for channels 49-72) channels 25-48 won’t be anywhere in the display.  Channels that are “skipped” like this just disappear unless you configure other controllers to display them.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;&#039;Can I use the start address with daisy-chained controllers?&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
:Yes, but you should only set the start address on the FIRST controller and leave the remaining daisy chained controllers set to start address zero or use standard Renard firmware on them. Example: think about three SS16 controllers daisy chained together. Essentially, the three controllers form one large 48-channel controller, or at least that&#039;s what it looks like in a Vixen sequence. If you have a 120-channel sequence and you set the start address of the first of the SS16 controllers to be 4, you&#039;re essentially telling the first one to skip 32 channels and start with channel 33. Therefore, the three daisy chained SS16s would then use channels 33-80 because the start address of the first one establishes the starting channel address and the data flows through the other two controllers just like normal.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;&#039;Can I set the start address on EACH controller that&#039;s still daisy chained together?&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
:Yes, but this practice is not recommended. Determining which channels a controller will react to becomes quite confusing and even more difficult to troubleshoot and plan in your sequences. The bottom line is that while it will work, it will make it very confusing to use. To figure it out, you need a complete understanding of how the Renard firmware works and how the data packets are reformatted during the daisy chain process from one PIC to the next. However, in practice, doing so makes it possible for to make two or three controllers react to an extremely wide range of channels which you may not otherwise be able to do.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;&#039;Do I have to change the addresses every year?&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
:Maybe. If your display changes every year, then probably yes. If you put up exactly the same display every year and put exactly the same controllers out in the same locations, then perhaps not.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;&#039;If I run into trouble, who can I call for help?&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
:Because the Renard start address concept is quite dependent on the physical layout of your display as well as the physical connections between units and the configuration of Vixen on your computer, the one who can best deal with problem issues is YOU because you can actually SEE these pieces of your display. Take it one step at a time, get one controller working at a time, and you’ll work through them. However, &#039;&#039;&#039;dirknerkle&#039;&#039;&#039; authored this document, so try him first. &#039;&#039;&#039;That said, if your question is about setting the start address for multiple pics on the same controller or setting different start addresses for daisychained controllers, &#039;&#039;you&#039;re on your own.&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Table of Start Address Settings ==&lt;br /&gt;
:Here&#039;s a table of START_ADDR settings and the respective starting channel for that controller.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::ADDR --- Channel&lt;br /&gt;
:::0 ------ 1&lt;br /&gt;
:::1 ------ 9&lt;br /&gt;
:::2 ------ 17&lt;br /&gt;
:::3 ------ 25&lt;br /&gt;
:::4 ------ 33&lt;br /&gt;
:::5 ------ 41&lt;br /&gt;
:::6 ------ 49&lt;br /&gt;
:::7 ------ 57&lt;br /&gt;
:::8 ------ 65&lt;br /&gt;
:::9 ------ 73&lt;br /&gt;
:::10 ------ 81&lt;br /&gt;
:::11 ------ 89&lt;br /&gt;
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:[[Renard_Firmware | Go back to Renard Firmware]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Renard]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Firmware]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:DIYC Index]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Dirknerkle</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=Renard_Start_Address_Configuration_Guide&amp;diff=13167</id>
		<title>Renard Start Address Configuration Guide</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=Renard_Start_Address_Configuration_Guide&amp;diff=13167"/>
		<updated>2021-12-06T20:29:14Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Dirknerkle: /* What is the Start Address? */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;== Background ==&lt;br /&gt;
:One of the main goals of the original Renard controller design was simplicity, and it was the original intent that all Renard controllers were identical, 8-channel units. Simplicity allowed for a person to expand a system simply by building and plugging in another 8-channel controller; 8 would then become 16, 16 would become 24, etc. Because the controllers were identical they were also interchangeable – it didn’t matter which was the first one and which the second or third one. There was no need for the user to set an address for this controller or that controller; it was simply “plug in and go.” However, with the advent of 16, 24, and even 64-channel Renard controllers, the concept has expanded over the years and has evolved into increasingly complex networks of controllers and thousands of feet or even miles of wires. But the original firmware that has been used in the Renard system has remained simple and unaddressable. Until now.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== What is the Start Address? ==&lt;br /&gt;
:The start address is a new feature of Renard firmware that makes a single Renard controller addressable.  Not in the purest sense such as an IP address or network name, but in a relative sense to the channel information that is sent to it. The feature allows a Renard controller to start decoding channels at a specific channel out of an entire range of channels. For example, instead of a controller automatically displaying channels 1-24, it can be set to skip channels 1-24 and start with channel 25 instead. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:The feature is primarily designed to aid those who use wireless communications in their light displays (although it can also be used with wired RS-485 systems). With wireless, it’s easy to broadcast all channels; all receivers in range of the transmitter will then pick up the same signal simultaneously. The start address provides a way for a wireless controller to begin decoding data at a specific channel out of the entire broadcast set of channels.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::&#039;&#039;&#039;IMPORTANT:&#039;&#039;&#039; The information provided here was intended to be used with the popular PIC16F688 chip that most Renard controllers use. While the general concepts apply to all Renard-type firmware, the actual start address and its relationship to the actual channel may be different for chips other than the PIC16F688. Note that for the PIC16F1825 chip, which was implemented later, the start address starts at 1 for channel 1 whereas the start address for the 16F688 started at 0 for channel 1. To convert the information below to apply to the PIC16F1825 chip, simply increment the stated start address by one.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Who should use it? ==&lt;br /&gt;
:The Renard start address feature is considered to be an advanced concept and is very likely to be quite confusing to someone new to DIY lighting controls. To successfully implement the feature, a solid understanding of how Renard controllers function normally is extremely important. One must also know how to modify assembly language program code, how to compile the code into HEX format and flash a PIC with the updated firmware.  It’s good to remember that if you make a mistake with the start address, you can always restore your Renard controller to normal operation by reflashing the PIC with the original Renard firmware.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Renard Start Address Concepts ==&lt;br /&gt;
:For the sake of explanation, consider a typical 32-channel Renard system utilizing a computer and four identical 8-channel controllers where the computer’s control signal connects to the first controller and all the other controllers are in a daisy-chain configuration, such as the example below. &lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Startaddr1.JPG]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:Our example uses an 8-channel controller because it has only a single PIC16F688 chip, which will be critical to understanding how to set the starting address feature later on. Another helpful concept is to remember that many Renard controllers can be connected to a single serial port and that there’s a limit to the total number of channels a single port can handle, and this is generally based on the sequence timing you use in Vixen. This is important because the starting address pertains to all the channels that come from a single serial port. If you use both COM1 and COM2, the starting addresses for controllers on COM1 are independent from starting addresses for controllers on COM2.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:Let’s change the normal Renard layout by connecting a 4-way splitter to the serial cable and then plugging each of the four 8-channel controllers into the splitter so that all four controllers can receive the same 32-channel signals simultaneously in a sort of “serial broadcast.” In this example, each controller uses the first eight channels of the 32-channel data and passes the remaining channels to the next controller – except the controllers aren’t connected to one another! Therefore, in this layout, each 8-channel controller gets only the first 8 channels and channels 9-32 don’t go anywhere because there is no “daisy chain” of controllers – each is an individual, standalone controller and has nowhere to pass the unused channel information along.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Startaddr2.JPG]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:Now let’s reflash the PIC in each controller with a “start address” that tells the PIC that instead of automatically taking the first channels it gets, to start decoding data at a different channel number instead. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:::•	Address 0 means normal operation.&lt;br /&gt;
:::•	Address 1 means start with channel 9 (skip channels 1-8)&lt;br /&gt;
:::•	Address 2 means start with channel 17 (skip channels 1-16)&lt;br /&gt;
:::•	Address 3 means start with channel 25 (skip channels 1-24)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Startaddr3.JPG]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::Now all 32 channels are in use again.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:Let’s switch gears again and replace the 32-channel setup with a 64-channel wireless model where all 64-channels are broadcast wirelessly from the computer and each 8-channel wireless controller is configured using individual starting addresses from the full 64-channel broadcast. Using identical controllers makes it easy to calculate the starting address for each unit. (This particular design would also require that all Ren-W wireless adapters be configured with the same PAN ID and no individual XBee radio addressing would be used at all. This is the purest “global broadcast” mode possible and one of the simplest ways to implement a Ren-W network yet retain individual controller channel assignments.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:64-channel_setup.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:The start address concept is most effective when all channel information can be distributed to all controllers simultaneously and is a perfect fit for those who use Ren-W wireless adapters.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== How to calculate the start address ==&lt;br /&gt;
:The formula for the start address is &#039;&#039;&#039;A=(C-1)/8&#039;&#039;&#039; where C is a channel number that you want the controller to start with. Examples: 9, 17, 25, 33, 41, 49, 57, etc. Do you notice that the channel number is always one more than a number evenly divisible by eight? This is because each PIC in a typical Renard controller controls 8 channels. Therefore, the last channel number in a Renard controller is always a factor of 8 and why the next channel number is 1 greater.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Multi-PIC Controllers ==&lt;br /&gt;
:So far, the examples have used only 8-channel controllers that use a single PIC. When you use controllers that have multiple PICs, the formula works the same way. Let’s examine a 64-channel system using four 16-channel wireless Renards. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::* Apply the formula: A=(C-1)/8 for the first controller: 1 – 1 = 0, then 0/8 = 0 so the start address of the first controller is zero. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::* We want the 2nd controller to start with channel 17, so applying the A=(C-1)/8 formula, we get a start address 2 for the 2nd controller: 17-1= 16, divide 16/8 = 2.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::* We want the 3rd controller to start with channel 33, and applying the formula we get a start address of 4: (33 – 1 = 32, then 32/8 = 4).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::* The 4th controller will start with channel 49, and we calculate that start address at 6: (49 – 1 = 48, then 48/8 = 6).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Startaddr5.JPG]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:Here’s an example of a 96-channel wireless design using four, 24-channel controllers. Applying the A=(C-1)/8 formula we arrive at start address 0, 3, 6 and 9 for the four controllers.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Startaddr6.JPG]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Mixing controllers with different channel counts ==&lt;br /&gt;
:When start addresses are used with controllers of varying channel counts, just use the formula to calculate the start address for each controller one controller at a time. In this 80-channel design with 5 controllers, in L-R order each controller’s channel counts are 24, 8, 16, 24 and 8. You can do the math yourself.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Startaddr7.JPG]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:It’s obviously a good idea to pre-plan your display and assign controllers to various portions of your display depending on the number of channels you need in each location. As you do that, you’ll find it helpful to label each controller in some way to denote where in the display it will be, the expected channels it will use and its start address. This will make it easier later on when/if something isn’t working right. Without labeling the controller, there will be no outwardly visible way to know what it’s supposed to be doing except by watching its lights.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== How to Set the Start Address ==&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;&#039;You will need:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
:::•	Renard firmware version 20090915.asm. (You can get it here: [[Media:Renard-20090915.asm]])&lt;br /&gt;
:::•	A text editor such as Windows Notepad.&lt;br /&gt;
:::•	MPASM, or other Microchip-compatible compiler to generate the HEX code for the PICs&lt;br /&gt;
:::•	A PIC programmer for PIC16F688 chips.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;&#039;Step-by-step procedure:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
::1.	Open the ASM file using the text editor and find the following section of code (it will be one of the earliest sections of the code following the copyright information):&lt;br /&gt;
:::::START_ADDR should normally be 0.  It is changed to another value if you &lt;br /&gt;
:::::wish for the particular PIC to ignore a certain number of (8-byte) records &lt;br /&gt;
:::::at the start of a frame (for wireless operation, mostly). &lt;br /&gt;
:::::define START_ADDR 0&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:2.	Change the number at the end of the &#039;&#039;&#039;define START_ADDR line&#039;&#039;&#039;. The number you enter must be an integer. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:3.	Save the file.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:4.	Open MPASM, be sure it is configured for the 16F688 chip, use the BROWSE button to find the Source File Name of your ASM file (the example here is start_addr.asm)   &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Startaddr8.JPG | 450px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:5.	Click the Assemble button. You may encounter warning messages such as in the example below, and these are expected. But if there are no errors you should be fine. Click the OK button to complete the operation.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Startaddr9.JPG | 200px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:6.	Open the PIC programmer and flash the designated PIC with the resulting HEX file you just assembled. Remember, this should be the FIRST PIC in a controller that has more than one PIC chip.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:7.	Insert the PIC back in your controller. Be sure to label the controller so that you know the start address and the expected channels it will use.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;&#039;Time Saver Suggestion:&#039;&#039;&#039; if you know that you will have many controllers with special start addresses but you don’t yet know what they are, after you compile the first ASM into HEX code, rename the resulting HEX file afterward with something that denotes what the starting address of that file is and simply repeat the process, changing the value, saving the file, recompiling into HEX, etc. and create multiple HEX files, such as in the example to the right. You may not use all of them, but they’ll always be available for you to quickly reflash a PIC whenever necessary. In this example, startaddr-34.HEX equates to 34 x 8 = 272 channels, virtually at the top of the recommended maximum for a single serial port using 57,600bps and sequencing at 50ms intervals.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::::[[File:Startaddr10.JPG | 300px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Common Questions &amp;amp; Answers ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;&#039;Which PIC gets the start address?&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
:Only the &#039;&#039;first&#039;&#039; PIC in each controller. If you don’t know which PIC that is or it isn’t marked, follow the circuit board tracings from the channel 1 output back to its PIC.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;&#039;Can I set the address in more than one PIC on a controller?&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
:Technically yes, but in practice, don’t do it. It may make it very difficult for you to analyze what’s going on in your display afterward. Set the start address only on the first PIC and leave the others alone.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;&#039;Do I need to do anything special in Vixen?&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
:No, just sequence like you normally do. It may be helpful to create a special sort order for the Vixen profile so that channels can be viewed together &#039;&#039;by controller&#039;&#039; instead of by color or location in the display. The idea is to have some method for cross-referencing various channels to various controllers for troubleshooting purposes. An alternative method would be to create a testing sequence that activates all channels on a single controller for a few seconds, then move to another controller, etc. In any event, you&#039;ll probably want some method to test the layout to make sure the controllers have the right addresses and you see what you expect to see. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;&#039;What if I need to replace a controller in my display?&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
:Use another Renard controller of the same channel count that has the first PIC flashed with the same START_ADDR and simply plug it in.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;&#039;Can I flash the PIC in my Renard controller &#039;&#039;in-circuit?&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
:Unless you have added in-circuit programming capability to your controller or have built a special cable/connector that can clamp onto the PIC&#039;s pins, you will have to remove the first PIC and flash it with your PIC Programmer as you normally would. The concept of adding an in-circuit header to a Renard controller is a good one – perhaps someone will come up with a DIY solution in the future!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;&#039;If I move a controller in my display, should I change the start address, too?&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
:Maybe. It depends on what channels you want the controller to use.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;&#039;Can I change my XBee modules’ PAN ID addresses, too?&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
:Yes, and in some cases it may actually be required. For example, if you have two serial ports and plan to broadcast channel controls out on both, you will need to use two PAN IDs, one for each port. If you used the same PAN ID for both ports, the XBee receivers will get very confused when they get transmissions from two sources simultaneously! Remember, only XBee radios that use the same PAN ID can communicate with one another. If you experience interference even when using different PAN IDs, you can also change the XBee channel setting to use a different channel.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;&#039;Does the Ren-C have start address capability?&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
:No. The start address pertains only to the firmware for the 16F688 chip; the Ren-C uses different firmware for its 16F627A chip. However, if you think outside the box a little, you can certainly have a start address on the controller immediately before the Ren-C and daisy chain the Ren-C off of that controller. For example, you might set the start address for an SS8 controller to 6 so that the SS8 begins at channel 49, connect the Ren-C/595 to the SS8’s RS-OUT jack and the Ren-C/595 would then become channels 57-120. (Of course, remember that the Ren-C still requires a ZC signal as well.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;&#039;Does the start address work with DMX?&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
:No, DMX has its own addressing scheme.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;&#039;How do I disable the start address?&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
:Either reflash the chip with a version that has the START_ADDR set to zero or reflash using the original 16F688 firmware that doesn’t include the start address option.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;&#039;Does the start address work with the Renard diagnostic firmware?&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
:No. The diagnostic firmware does not have the start address capability.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;&#039;How do I test the controller to determine if I used the right start address?&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
:If your controller has diagnostic LEDs, remember that they react to channels 2, 5-6-7-8. For example, if the controller’s start address is set to 6, channel 1 on that controller is actually Vixen channel 49. Therefore, channels 2, 5-6-7-8 are using Vixen channels 50, 53-54-55-56 and you should be able to use the Vixen channel test function to turn on the diagnostic LEDs one at a time. (We’re assuming that all channels are on the same serial port for this example.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;&#039;I use several serial ports on my PC. How do I know what address to use?&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
:This is where it gets confusing and you literally have to map it out on paper. Let’s say that you have two COM ports, and each port carries 128 channels for a total of 256 channels on your Vixen screen. Luckily, Vixen only allows defining a contiguous group of channels to a specific plugin and the plugin is assigned to its own port, so it shouldn’t be too difficult to identify which Vixen channels go to which port. Let’s assume in this example that Vixen channels 1-128 are assigned to COM1 and channels 129-256 are assigned to COM2. A Renard controller doesn’t know which port its channels are coming from; it only knows that channel information is coming to it. Therefore, the start address is relative to the total number of channels on that port. So in this example with 128 channels on COM1 and another 128 on COM2, a controller that has a start address of 2 would start with Vixen channel 17 if it were being controlled via COM1 but would start with Vixen channel 145 (128 + 17) if it were being controlled via COM2.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:The bottom line with using multiple serial ports is that you need to know which controllers are being controlled from each port, and assign the controllers their own order relative to that port. So while you may have sixteen, 16-channel Renard controllers in your display, it may help your organization to think of them as 1A, 2A, 3A etc. and 1B, 2B, 3B, etc. where eight are assigned to port A and the other eight assigned to port B.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:In any event, this takes some careful thought, a pencil and a pad of paper to carefully map out which controllers are where in your display, which port is being used to control them, how many channels each has and what the start_addr will be. It’s certainly not difficult math, but it does require some clear thinking.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;&#039;Is it possible to overlap channels by use of the start address?&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
:Yes, but you run the risk of orphaning channels later on. Let’s say that you had 72 channels in use on three, 24-channel controllers and you decided to change and use the 3rd controller to double-up on channels 41-48 to handle some extra lights and the resulting extra electrical current required.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:::* Controller #1: channels 1-24, start address = 0  (calculation: 1 – 1 = 0, then 0/8 = 0)&lt;br /&gt;
:::* Controller #2: channels 25-48, start address = 3 (calculation: 25 – 1 = 24, then 24/8 = 3)&lt;br /&gt;
:::* Controller #3: channels 41-64, start address = 5 (calculation: 41 – 1 = 40, then 40/8 = 5)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::Suddenly channels 65-72 don’t come on because by overlapping 8 channels, you’ve effectively reduced the total channel coverage from 72 down to 64. The point is that overlapping can cause some unexpected results, but it is certainly possible. You just have to plan for it.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;&#039;Can any channel be the start address?&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
:No, because the PICs in Renard controllers are 8-bit chips and therefore, the firmware requires that the address is based on 8-channel boundaries. However, you can simulate other start addresses by configuring the address so that the controller covers the desired channel(s) you want but then don’t plug any lights into the controller for channels you don’t want. For example, an address of 2 starts with channel 17, but if you really only want lights on channels 21-24, only plug lights into channels 21-24 and leave the others empty. This wastes a little capacity, of course, but nobody ever said that you always have to plug lights into every channel on a controller – you may decide to use only some channels while leaving others without lights plugged into them. It has the same end effect.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;&#039;Can I use the start address with my wired controllers?&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
:Yes, and if you chain other controllers off of the specially addressed one, they will behave normally just like you’d expect them to. Also remember that it’s possible to skip channels completely, too. For example, if you have two 24 channel controllers and you want one of them to use start address 0 (for channels 1-24) and the other controller at start address 6 (for channels 49-72) channels 25-48 won’t be anywhere in the display.  Channels that are “skipped” like this just disappear unless you configure other controllers to display them.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;&#039;Can I use the start address with daisy-chained controllers?&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
:Yes, but you should only set the start address on the FIRST controller and leave the remaining daisy chained controllers set to start address zero or use standard Renard firmware on them. Example: think about three SS16 controllers daisy chained together. Essentially, the three controllers form one large 48-channel controller, or at least that&#039;s what it looks like in a Vixen sequence. If you have a 120-channel sequence and you set the start address of the first of the SS16 controllers to be 4, you&#039;re essentially telling the first one to skip 32 channels and start with channel 33. Therefore, the three daisy chained SS16s would then use channels 33-80 because the start address of the first one establishes the starting channel address and the data flows through the other two controllers just like normal.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;&#039;Can I set the start address on EACH controller that&#039;s still daisy chained together?&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
:Yes, but this practice is not recommended. Determining which channels a controller will react to becomes quite confusing and even more difficult to troubleshoot and plan in your sequences. The bottom line is that while it will work, it will make it very confusing to use. To figure it out, you need a complete understanding of how the Renard firmware works and how the data packets are reformatted during the daisy chain process from one PIC to the next. However, in practice, doing so makes it possible for to make two or three controllers react to an extremely wide range of channels which you may not otherwise be able to do.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;&#039;Do I have to change the addresses every year?&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
:Maybe. If your display changes every year, then probably yes. If you put up exactly the same display every year and put exactly the same controllers out in the same locations, then perhaps not.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;&#039;If I run into trouble, who can I call for help?&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
:Because the Renard start address concept is quite dependent on the physical layout of your display as well as the physical connections between units and the configuration of Vixen on your computer, the one who can best deal with problem issues is YOU because you can actually SEE these pieces of your display. Take it one step at a time, get one controller working at a time, and you’ll work through them. However, &#039;&#039;&#039;dirknerkle&#039;&#039;&#039; authored this document, so try him first. &#039;&#039;&#039;That said, if your question is about setting the start address for multiple pics on the same controller or setting different start addresses for daisychained controllers, &#039;&#039;you&#039;re on your own.&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Table of Start Address Settings ==&lt;br /&gt;
:Here&#039;s a table of START_ADDR settings and the respective starting channel for that controller.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::ADDR --- Channel&lt;br /&gt;
:::0 ------ 1&lt;br /&gt;
:::1 ------ 9&lt;br /&gt;
:::2 ------ 17&lt;br /&gt;
:::3 ------ 25&lt;br /&gt;
:::4 ------ 33&lt;br /&gt;
:::5 ------ 41&lt;br /&gt;
:::6 ------ 49&lt;br /&gt;
:::7 ------ 57&lt;br /&gt;
:::8 ------ 65&lt;br /&gt;
:::9 ------ 73&lt;br /&gt;
:::10 ------ 81&lt;br /&gt;
:::11 ------ 89&lt;br /&gt;
:::12 ------ 97&lt;br /&gt;
:::13 ------ 105&lt;br /&gt;
:::14 ------ 113&lt;br /&gt;
:::15 ------ 121&lt;br /&gt;
:::16 ------ 129&lt;br /&gt;
:::17 ------ 137&lt;br /&gt;
:::18 ------ 145&lt;br /&gt;
:::19 ------ 153&lt;br /&gt;
:::20 ------ 161&lt;br /&gt;
:::21 ------ 169&lt;br /&gt;
:::22 ------ 177&lt;br /&gt;
:::23 ------ 185&lt;br /&gt;
:::24 ------ 193&lt;br /&gt;
:::25 ------ 201&lt;br /&gt;
:::26 ------ 209&lt;br /&gt;
:::27 ------ 217&lt;br /&gt;
:::28 ------ 225&lt;br /&gt;
:::29 ------ 233&lt;br /&gt;
:::30 ------ 241&lt;br /&gt;
:::31 ------ 249&lt;br /&gt;
:::32 ------ 257&lt;br /&gt;
:::33 ------ 265&lt;br /&gt;
:::34 ------ 273&lt;br /&gt;
:::35 ------ 281&lt;br /&gt;
:::36 ------ 289&lt;br /&gt;
:::37 ------ 297&lt;br /&gt;
:::38 ------ 305&lt;br /&gt;
:::39 ------ 313&lt;br /&gt;
:::40 ------ 321&lt;br /&gt;
:::41 ------ 329&lt;br /&gt;
:::42 ------ 337&lt;br /&gt;
:::43 ------ 345&lt;br /&gt;
:::44 ------ 353&lt;br /&gt;
:::45 ------ 361&lt;br /&gt;
:::46 ------ 369&lt;br /&gt;
:::47 ------ 377&lt;br /&gt;
:::48 ------ 385&lt;br /&gt;
:::49 ------ 393&lt;br /&gt;
:::50 ------ 401&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:[[Renard_Firmware | Go back to Renard Firmware]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Renard]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Firmware]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:DIYC Index]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Dirknerkle</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=Renard_Start_Address_Configuration_Guide&amp;diff=13166</id>
		<title>Renard Start Address Configuration Guide</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=Renard_Start_Address_Configuration_Guide&amp;diff=13166"/>
		<updated>2021-12-06T20:28:42Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Dirknerkle: /* What is the Start Address? */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;== Background ==&lt;br /&gt;
:One of the main goals of the original Renard controller design was simplicity, and it was the original intent that all Renard controllers were identical, 8-channel units. Simplicity allowed for a person to expand a system simply by building and plugging in another 8-channel controller; 8 would then become 16, 16 would become 24, etc. Because the controllers were identical they were also interchangeable – it didn’t matter which was the first one and which the second or third one. There was no need for the user to set an address for this controller or that controller; it was simply “plug in and go.” However, with the advent of 16, 24, and even 64-channel Renard controllers, the concept has expanded over the years and has evolved into increasingly complex networks of controllers and thousands of feet or even miles of wires. But the original firmware that has been used in the Renard system has remained simple and unaddressable. Until now.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== What is the Start Address? ==&lt;br /&gt;
:The start address is a new feature of Renard firmware that makes a single Renard controller addressable.  Not in the purest sense such as an IP address or network name, but in a relative sense to the channel information that is sent to it. The feature allows a Renard controller to start decoding channels at a specific channel out of an entire range of channels. For example, instead of a controller automatically displaying channels 1-24, it can be set to skip channels 1-24 and start with channel 25 instead. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:The feature is primarily designed to aid those who use wireless communications in their light displays (although it can also be used with wired RS-485 systems). With wireless, it’s easy to broadcast all channels; all receivers in range of the transmitter will then pick up the same signal simultaneously. The start address provides a way for a wireless controller to begin decoding data at a specific channel out of the entire broadcast set of channels.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::IMPORTANT: The information provided here was intended to be used with the popular PIC16F688 chip that most Renard controllers use. While the general concepts apply to all Renard-type firmware, the actual start address and its relationship to the actual channel may be different for chips other than the PIC16F688. Note that for the PIC16F1825 chip, which was implemented later, the start address starts at 1 for channel 1 whereas the start address for the 16F688 started at 0 for channel 1. To convert the information below to apply to the PIC16F1825 chip, simply increment the stated start address by one.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Who should use it? ==&lt;br /&gt;
:The Renard start address feature is considered to be an advanced concept and is very likely to be quite confusing to someone new to DIY lighting controls. To successfully implement the feature, a solid understanding of how Renard controllers function normally is extremely important. One must also know how to modify assembly language program code, how to compile the code into HEX format and flash a PIC with the updated firmware.  It’s good to remember that if you make a mistake with the start address, you can always restore your Renard controller to normal operation by reflashing the PIC with the original Renard firmware.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Renard Start Address Concepts ==&lt;br /&gt;
:For the sake of explanation, consider a typical 32-channel Renard system utilizing a computer and four identical 8-channel controllers where the computer’s control signal connects to the first controller and all the other controllers are in a daisy-chain configuration, such as the example below. &lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Startaddr1.JPG]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:Our example uses an 8-channel controller because it has only a single PIC16F688 chip, which will be critical to understanding how to set the starting address feature later on. Another helpful concept is to remember that many Renard controllers can be connected to a single serial port and that there’s a limit to the total number of channels a single port can handle, and this is generally based on the sequence timing you use in Vixen. This is important because the starting address pertains to all the channels that come from a single serial port. If you use both COM1 and COM2, the starting addresses for controllers on COM1 are independent from starting addresses for controllers on COM2.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:Let’s change the normal Renard layout by connecting a 4-way splitter to the serial cable and then plugging each of the four 8-channel controllers into the splitter so that all four controllers can receive the same 32-channel signals simultaneously in a sort of “serial broadcast.” In this example, each controller uses the first eight channels of the 32-channel data and passes the remaining channels to the next controller – except the controllers aren’t connected to one another! Therefore, in this layout, each 8-channel controller gets only the first 8 channels and channels 9-32 don’t go anywhere because there is no “daisy chain” of controllers – each is an individual, standalone controller and has nowhere to pass the unused channel information along.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Startaddr2.JPG]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:Now let’s reflash the PIC in each controller with a “start address” that tells the PIC that instead of automatically taking the first channels it gets, to start decoding data at a different channel number instead. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:::•	Address 0 means normal operation.&lt;br /&gt;
:::•	Address 1 means start with channel 9 (skip channels 1-8)&lt;br /&gt;
:::•	Address 2 means start with channel 17 (skip channels 1-16)&lt;br /&gt;
:::•	Address 3 means start with channel 25 (skip channels 1-24)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Startaddr3.JPG]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::Now all 32 channels are in use again.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:Let’s switch gears again and replace the 32-channel setup with a 64-channel wireless model where all 64-channels are broadcast wirelessly from the computer and each 8-channel wireless controller is configured using individual starting addresses from the full 64-channel broadcast. Using identical controllers makes it easy to calculate the starting address for each unit. (This particular design would also require that all Ren-W wireless adapters be configured with the same PAN ID and no individual XBee radio addressing would be used at all. This is the purest “global broadcast” mode possible and one of the simplest ways to implement a Ren-W network yet retain individual controller channel assignments.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:64-channel_setup.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:The start address concept is most effective when all channel information can be distributed to all controllers simultaneously and is a perfect fit for those who use Ren-W wireless adapters.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== How to calculate the start address ==&lt;br /&gt;
:The formula for the start address is &#039;&#039;&#039;A=(C-1)/8&#039;&#039;&#039; where C is a channel number that you want the controller to start with. Examples: 9, 17, 25, 33, 41, 49, 57, etc. Do you notice that the channel number is always one more than a number evenly divisible by eight? This is because each PIC in a typical Renard controller controls 8 channels. Therefore, the last channel number in a Renard controller is always a factor of 8 and why the next channel number is 1 greater.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Multi-PIC Controllers ==&lt;br /&gt;
:So far, the examples have used only 8-channel controllers that use a single PIC. When you use controllers that have multiple PICs, the formula works the same way. Let’s examine a 64-channel system using four 16-channel wireless Renards. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::* Apply the formula: A=(C-1)/8 for the first controller: 1 – 1 = 0, then 0/8 = 0 so the start address of the first controller is zero. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::* We want the 2nd controller to start with channel 17, so applying the A=(C-1)/8 formula, we get a start address 2 for the 2nd controller: 17-1= 16, divide 16/8 = 2.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::* We want the 3rd controller to start with channel 33, and applying the formula we get a start address of 4: (33 – 1 = 32, then 32/8 = 4).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::* The 4th controller will start with channel 49, and we calculate that start address at 6: (49 – 1 = 48, then 48/8 = 6).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Startaddr5.JPG]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:Here’s an example of a 96-channel wireless design using four, 24-channel controllers. Applying the A=(C-1)/8 formula we arrive at start address 0, 3, 6 and 9 for the four controllers.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Startaddr6.JPG]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Mixing controllers with different channel counts ==&lt;br /&gt;
:When start addresses are used with controllers of varying channel counts, just use the formula to calculate the start address for each controller one controller at a time. In this 80-channel design with 5 controllers, in L-R order each controller’s channel counts are 24, 8, 16, 24 and 8. You can do the math yourself.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Startaddr7.JPG]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:It’s obviously a good idea to pre-plan your display and assign controllers to various portions of your display depending on the number of channels you need in each location. As you do that, you’ll find it helpful to label each controller in some way to denote where in the display it will be, the expected channels it will use and its start address. This will make it easier later on when/if something isn’t working right. Without labeling the controller, there will be no outwardly visible way to know what it’s supposed to be doing except by watching its lights.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== How to Set the Start Address ==&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;&#039;You will need:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
:::•	Renard firmware version 20090915.asm. (You can get it here: [[Media:Renard-20090915.asm]])&lt;br /&gt;
:::•	A text editor such as Windows Notepad.&lt;br /&gt;
:::•	MPASM, or other Microchip-compatible compiler to generate the HEX code for the PICs&lt;br /&gt;
:::•	A PIC programmer for PIC16F688 chips.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;&#039;Step-by-step procedure:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
::1.	Open the ASM file using the text editor and find the following section of code (it will be one of the earliest sections of the code following the copyright information):&lt;br /&gt;
:::::START_ADDR should normally be 0.  It is changed to another value if you &lt;br /&gt;
:::::wish for the particular PIC to ignore a certain number of (8-byte) records &lt;br /&gt;
:::::at the start of a frame (for wireless operation, mostly). &lt;br /&gt;
:::::define START_ADDR 0&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:2.	Change the number at the end of the &#039;&#039;&#039;define START_ADDR line&#039;&#039;&#039;. The number you enter must be an integer. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:3.	Save the file.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:4.	Open MPASM, be sure it is configured for the 16F688 chip, use the BROWSE button to find the Source File Name of your ASM file (the example here is start_addr.asm)   &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Startaddr8.JPG | 450px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:5.	Click the Assemble button. You may encounter warning messages such as in the example below, and these are expected. But if there are no errors you should be fine. Click the OK button to complete the operation.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Startaddr9.JPG | 200px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:6.	Open the PIC programmer and flash the designated PIC with the resulting HEX file you just assembled. Remember, this should be the FIRST PIC in a controller that has more than one PIC chip.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:7.	Insert the PIC back in your controller. Be sure to label the controller so that you know the start address and the expected channels it will use.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;&#039;Time Saver Suggestion:&#039;&#039;&#039; if you know that you will have many controllers with special start addresses but you don’t yet know what they are, after you compile the first ASM into HEX code, rename the resulting HEX file afterward with something that denotes what the starting address of that file is and simply repeat the process, changing the value, saving the file, recompiling into HEX, etc. and create multiple HEX files, such as in the example to the right. You may not use all of them, but they’ll always be available for you to quickly reflash a PIC whenever necessary. In this example, startaddr-34.HEX equates to 34 x 8 = 272 channels, virtually at the top of the recommended maximum for a single serial port using 57,600bps and sequencing at 50ms intervals.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::::[[File:Startaddr10.JPG | 300px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Common Questions &amp;amp; Answers ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;&#039;Which PIC gets the start address?&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
:Only the &#039;&#039;first&#039;&#039; PIC in each controller. If you don’t know which PIC that is or it isn’t marked, follow the circuit board tracings from the channel 1 output back to its PIC.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;&#039;Can I set the address in more than one PIC on a controller?&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
:Technically yes, but in practice, don’t do it. It may make it very difficult for you to analyze what’s going on in your display afterward. Set the start address only on the first PIC and leave the others alone.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;&#039;Do I need to do anything special in Vixen?&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
:No, just sequence like you normally do. It may be helpful to create a special sort order for the Vixen profile so that channels can be viewed together &#039;&#039;by controller&#039;&#039; instead of by color or location in the display. The idea is to have some method for cross-referencing various channels to various controllers for troubleshooting purposes. An alternative method would be to create a testing sequence that activates all channels on a single controller for a few seconds, then move to another controller, etc. In any event, you&#039;ll probably want some method to test the layout to make sure the controllers have the right addresses and you see what you expect to see. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;&#039;What if I need to replace a controller in my display?&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
:Use another Renard controller of the same channel count that has the first PIC flashed with the same START_ADDR and simply plug it in.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;&#039;Can I flash the PIC in my Renard controller &#039;&#039;in-circuit?&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
:Unless you have added in-circuit programming capability to your controller or have built a special cable/connector that can clamp onto the PIC&#039;s pins, you will have to remove the first PIC and flash it with your PIC Programmer as you normally would. The concept of adding an in-circuit header to a Renard controller is a good one – perhaps someone will come up with a DIY solution in the future!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;&#039;If I move a controller in my display, should I change the start address, too?&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
:Maybe. It depends on what channels you want the controller to use.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;&#039;Can I change my XBee modules’ PAN ID addresses, too?&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
:Yes, and in some cases it may actually be required. For example, if you have two serial ports and plan to broadcast channel controls out on both, you will need to use two PAN IDs, one for each port. If you used the same PAN ID for both ports, the XBee receivers will get very confused when they get transmissions from two sources simultaneously! Remember, only XBee radios that use the same PAN ID can communicate with one another. If you experience interference even when using different PAN IDs, you can also change the XBee channel setting to use a different channel.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;&#039;Does the Ren-C have start address capability?&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
:No. The start address pertains only to the firmware for the 16F688 chip; the Ren-C uses different firmware for its 16F627A chip. However, if you think outside the box a little, you can certainly have a start address on the controller immediately before the Ren-C and daisy chain the Ren-C off of that controller. For example, you might set the start address for an SS8 controller to 6 so that the SS8 begins at channel 49, connect the Ren-C/595 to the SS8’s RS-OUT jack and the Ren-C/595 would then become channels 57-120. (Of course, remember that the Ren-C still requires a ZC signal as well.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;&#039;Does the start address work with DMX?&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
:No, DMX has its own addressing scheme.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;&#039;How do I disable the start address?&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
:Either reflash the chip with a version that has the START_ADDR set to zero or reflash using the original 16F688 firmware that doesn’t include the start address option.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;&#039;Does the start address work with the Renard diagnostic firmware?&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
:No. The diagnostic firmware does not have the start address capability.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;&#039;How do I test the controller to determine if I used the right start address?&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
:If your controller has diagnostic LEDs, remember that they react to channels 2, 5-6-7-8. For example, if the controller’s start address is set to 6, channel 1 on that controller is actually Vixen channel 49. Therefore, channels 2, 5-6-7-8 are using Vixen channels 50, 53-54-55-56 and you should be able to use the Vixen channel test function to turn on the diagnostic LEDs one at a time. (We’re assuming that all channels are on the same serial port for this example.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;&#039;I use several serial ports on my PC. How do I know what address to use?&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
:This is where it gets confusing and you literally have to map it out on paper. Let’s say that you have two COM ports, and each port carries 128 channels for a total of 256 channels on your Vixen screen. Luckily, Vixen only allows defining a contiguous group of channels to a specific plugin and the plugin is assigned to its own port, so it shouldn’t be too difficult to identify which Vixen channels go to which port. Let’s assume in this example that Vixen channels 1-128 are assigned to COM1 and channels 129-256 are assigned to COM2. A Renard controller doesn’t know which port its channels are coming from; it only knows that channel information is coming to it. Therefore, the start address is relative to the total number of channels on that port. So in this example with 128 channels on COM1 and another 128 on COM2, a controller that has a start address of 2 would start with Vixen channel 17 if it were being controlled via COM1 but would start with Vixen channel 145 (128 + 17) if it were being controlled via COM2.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:The bottom line with using multiple serial ports is that you need to know which controllers are being controlled from each port, and assign the controllers their own order relative to that port. So while you may have sixteen, 16-channel Renard controllers in your display, it may help your organization to think of them as 1A, 2A, 3A etc. and 1B, 2B, 3B, etc. where eight are assigned to port A and the other eight assigned to port B.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:In any event, this takes some careful thought, a pencil and a pad of paper to carefully map out which controllers are where in your display, which port is being used to control them, how many channels each has and what the start_addr will be. It’s certainly not difficult math, but it does require some clear thinking.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;&#039;Is it possible to overlap channels by use of the start address?&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
:Yes, but you run the risk of orphaning channels later on. Let’s say that you had 72 channels in use on three, 24-channel controllers and you decided to change and use the 3rd controller to double-up on channels 41-48 to handle some extra lights and the resulting extra electrical current required.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:::* Controller #1: channels 1-24, start address = 0  (calculation: 1 – 1 = 0, then 0/8 = 0)&lt;br /&gt;
:::* Controller #2: channels 25-48, start address = 3 (calculation: 25 – 1 = 24, then 24/8 = 3)&lt;br /&gt;
:::* Controller #3: channels 41-64, start address = 5 (calculation: 41 – 1 = 40, then 40/8 = 5)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::Suddenly channels 65-72 don’t come on because by overlapping 8 channels, you’ve effectively reduced the total channel coverage from 72 down to 64. The point is that overlapping can cause some unexpected results, but it is certainly possible. You just have to plan for it.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;&#039;Can any channel be the start address?&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
:No, because the PICs in Renard controllers are 8-bit chips and therefore, the firmware requires that the address is based on 8-channel boundaries. However, you can simulate other start addresses by configuring the address so that the controller covers the desired channel(s) you want but then don’t plug any lights into the controller for channels you don’t want. For example, an address of 2 starts with channel 17, but if you really only want lights on channels 21-24, only plug lights into channels 21-24 and leave the others empty. This wastes a little capacity, of course, but nobody ever said that you always have to plug lights into every channel on a controller – you may decide to use only some channels while leaving others without lights plugged into them. It has the same end effect.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;&#039;Can I use the start address with my wired controllers?&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
:Yes, and if you chain other controllers off of the specially addressed one, they will behave normally just like you’d expect them to. Also remember that it’s possible to skip channels completely, too. For example, if you have two 24 channel controllers and you want one of them to use start address 0 (for channels 1-24) and the other controller at start address 6 (for channels 49-72) channels 25-48 won’t be anywhere in the display.  Channels that are “skipped” like this just disappear unless you configure other controllers to display them.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;&#039;Can I use the start address with daisy-chained controllers?&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
:Yes, but you should only set the start address on the FIRST controller and leave the remaining daisy chained controllers set to start address zero or use standard Renard firmware on them. Example: think about three SS16 controllers daisy chained together. Essentially, the three controllers form one large 48-channel controller, or at least that&#039;s what it looks like in a Vixen sequence. If you have a 120-channel sequence and you set the start address of the first of the SS16 controllers to be 4, you&#039;re essentially telling the first one to skip 32 channels and start with channel 33. Therefore, the three daisy chained SS16s would then use channels 33-80 because the start address of the first one establishes the starting channel address and the data flows through the other two controllers just like normal.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;&#039;Can I set the start address on EACH controller that&#039;s still daisy chained together?&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
:Yes, but this practice is not recommended. Determining which channels a controller will react to becomes quite confusing and even more difficult to troubleshoot and plan in your sequences. The bottom line is that while it will work, it will make it very confusing to use. To figure it out, you need a complete understanding of how the Renard firmware works and how the data packets are reformatted during the daisy chain process from one PIC to the next. However, in practice, doing so makes it possible for to make two or three controllers react to an extremely wide range of channels which you may not otherwise be able to do.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;&#039;Do I have to change the addresses every year?&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
:Maybe. If your display changes every year, then probably yes. If you put up exactly the same display every year and put exactly the same controllers out in the same locations, then perhaps not.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;&#039;If I run into trouble, who can I call for help?&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
:Because the Renard start address concept is quite dependent on the physical layout of your display as well as the physical connections between units and the configuration of Vixen on your computer, the one who can best deal with problem issues is YOU because you can actually SEE these pieces of your display. Take it one step at a time, get one controller working at a time, and you’ll work through them. However, &#039;&#039;&#039;dirknerkle&#039;&#039;&#039; authored this document, so try him first. &#039;&#039;&#039;That said, if your question is about setting the start address for multiple pics on the same controller or setting different start addresses for daisychained controllers, &#039;&#039;you&#039;re on your own.&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Table of Start Address Settings ==&lt;br /&gt;
:Here&#039;s a table of START_ADDR settings and the respective starting channel for that controller.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::ADDR --- Channel&lt;br /&gt;
:::0 ------ 1&lt;br /&gt;
:::1 ------ 9&lt;br /&gt;
:::2 ------ 17&lt;br /&gt;
:::3 ------ 25&lt;br /&gt;
:::4 ------ 33&lt;br /&gt;
:::5 ------ 41&lt;br /&gt;
:::6 ------ 49&lt;br /&gt;
:::7 ------ 57&lt;br /&gt;
:::8 ------ 65&lt;br /&gt;
:::9 ------ 73&lt;br /&gt;
:::10 ------ 81&lt;br /&gt;
:::11 ------ 89&lt;br /&gt;
:::12 ------ 97&lt;br /&gt;
:::13 ------ 105&lt;br /&gt;
:::14 ------ 113&lt;br /&gt;
:::15 ------ 121&lt;br /&gt;
:::16 ------ 129&lt;br /&gt;
:::17 ------ 137&lt;br /&gt;
:::18 ------ 145&lt;br /&gt;
:::19 ------ 153&lt;br /&gt;
:::20 ------ 161&lt;br /&gt;
:::21 ------ 169&lt;br /&gt;
:::22 ------ 177&lt;br /&gt;
:::23 ------ 185&lt;br /&gt;
:::24 ------ 193&lt;br /&gt;
:::25 ------ 201&lt;br /&gt;
:::26 ------ 209&lt;br /&gt;
:::27 ------ 217&lt;br /&gt;
:::28 ------ 225&lt;br /&gt;
:::29 ------ 233&lt;br /&gt;
:::30 ------ 241&lt;br /&gt;
:::31 ------ 249&lt;br /&gt;
:::32 ------ 257&lt;br /&gt;
:::33 ------ 265&lt;br /&gt;
:::34 ------ 273&lt;br /&gt;
:::35 ------ 281&lt;br /&gt;
:::36 ------ 289&lt;br /&gt;
:::37 ------ 297&lt;br /&gt;
:::38 ------ 305&lt;br /&gt;
:::39 ------ 313&lt;br /&gt;
:::40 ------ 321&lt;br /&gt;
:::41 ------ 329&lt;br /&gt;
:::42 ------ 337&lt;br /&gt;
:::43 ------ 345&lt;br /&gt;
:::44 ------ 353&lt;br /&gt;
:::45 ------ 361&lt;br /&gt;
:::46 ------ 369&lt;br /&gt;
:::47 ------ 377&lt;br /&gt;
:::48 ------ 385&lt;br /&gt;
:::49 ------ 393&lt;br /&gt;
:::50 ------ 401&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:[[Renard_Firmware | Go back to Renard Firmware]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Renard]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Firmware]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:DIYC Index]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Dirknerkle</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=Renard_Start_Address_Configuration_Guide&amp;diff=13165</id>
		<title>Renard Start Address Configuration Guide</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=Renard_Start_Address_Configuration_Guide&amp;diff=13165"/>
		<updated>2021-12-06T20:20:17Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Dirknerkle: /* What is the Start Address? */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;== Background ==&lt;br /&gt;
:One of the main goals of the original Renard controller design was simplicity, and it was the original intent that all Renard controllers were identical, 8-channel units. Simplicity allowed for a person to expand a system simply by building and plugging in another 8-channel controller; 8 would then become 16, 16 would become 24, etc. Because the controllers were identical they were also interchangeable – it didn’t matter which was the first one and which the second or third one. There was no need for the user to set an address for this controller or that controller; it was simply “plug in and go.” However, with the advent of 16, 24, and even 64-channel Renard controllers, the concept has expanded over the years and has evolved into increasingly complex networks of controllers and thousands of feet or even miles of wires. But the original firmware that has been used in the Renard system has remained simple and unaddressable. Until now.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== What is the Start Address? ==&lt;br /&gt;
:The start address is a new feature of Renard firmware that makes a single Renard controller addressable.  Not in the purest sense such as an IP address or network name, but in a relative sense to the channel information that is sent to it. The feature allows a Renard controller to start decoding channels at a specific channel out of an entire range of channels. For example, instead of a controller automatically displaying channels 1-24, it can be set to skip channels 1-24 and start with channel 25 instead. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:The feature is primarily designed to aid those who use wireless communications in their light displays (although it can also be used with wired RS-485 systems). With wireless, it’s easy to broadcast all channels; all receivers in range of the transmitter will then pick up the same signal simultaneously. The start address provides a way for a wireless controller to begin decoding data at a specific channel out of the entire broadcast set of channels.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::IMPORTANT: The information provided here was intended to be used with the popular PIC16F688 chip that most Renard controllers use. While the general concepts apply to all Renard-type firmware, the actual start address and its relationship to the actual channel may be different for chips other than the PIC16F688. Note that for the PIC16F1825 chip, which was implemented later, the start address starts at 1 for channel 1 whereas the start address for the 16F688 started at 0 for channel 1. To convert the information below to apply to the PIC16F1825 chip, simply increment the desired start address by one.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Who should use it? ==&lt;br /&gt;
:The Renard start address feature is considered to be an advanced concept and is very likely to be quite confusing to someone new to DIY lighting controls. To successfully implement the feature, a solid understanding of how Renard controllers function normally is extremely important. One must also know how to modify assembly language program code, how to compile the code into HEX format and flash a PIC with the updated firmware.  It’s good to remember that if you make a mistake with the start address, you can always restore your Renard controller to normal operation by reflashing the PIC with the original Renard firmware.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Renard Start Address Concepts ==&lt;br /&gt;
:For the sake of explanation, consider a typical 32-channel Renard system utilizing a computer and four identical 8-channel controllers where the computer’s control signal connects to the first controller and all the other controllers are in a daisy-chain configuration, such as the example below. &lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Startaddr1.JPG]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:Our example uses an 8-channel controller because it has only a single PIC16F688 chip, which will be critical to understanding how to set the starting address feature later on. Another helpful concept is to remember that many Renard controllers can be connected to a single serial port and that there’s a limit to the total number of channels a single port can handle, and this is generally based on the sequence timing you use in Vixen. This is important because the starting address pertains to all the channels that come from a single serial port. If you use both COM1 and COM2, the starting addresses for controllers on COM1 are independent from starting addresses for controllers on COM2.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:Let’s change the normal Renard layout by connecting a 4-way splitter to the serial cable and then plugging each of the four 8-channel controllers into the splitter so that all four controllers can receive the same 32-channel signals simultaneously in a sort of “serial broadcast.” In this example, each controller uses the first eight channels of the 32-channel data and passes the remaining channels to the next controller – except the controllers aren’t connected to one another! Therefore, in this layout, each 8-channel controller gets only the first 8 channels and channels 9-32 don’t go anywhere because there is no “daisy chain” of controllers – each is an individual, standalone controller and has nowhere to pass the unused channel information along.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Startaddr2.JPG]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:Now let’s reflash the PIC in each controller with a “start address” that tells the PIC that instead of automatically taking the first channels it gets, to start decoding data at a different channel number instead. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:::•	Address 0 means normal operation.&lt;br /&gt;
:::•	Address 1 means start with channel 9 (skip channels 1-8)&lt;br /&gt;
:::•	Address 2 means start with channel 17 (skip channels 1-16)&lt;br /&gt;
:::•	Address 3 means start with channel 25 (skip channels 1-24)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Startaddr3.JPG]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::Now all 32 channels are in use again.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:Let’s switch gears again and replace the 32-channel setup with a 64-channel wireless model where all 64-channels are broadcast wirelessly from the computer and each 8-channel wireless controller is configured using individual starting addresses from the full 64-channel broadcast. Using identical controllers makes it easy to calculate the starting address for each unit. (This particular design would also require that all Ren-W wireless adapters be configured with the same PAN ID and no individual XBee radio addressing would be used at all. This is the purest “global broadcast” mode possible and one of the simplest ways to implement a Ren-W network yet retain individual controller channel assignments.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:64-channel_setup.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:The start address concept is most effective when all channel information can be distributed to all controllers simultaneously and is a perfect fit for those who use Ren-W wireless adapters.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== How to calculate the start address ==&lt;br /&gt;
:The formula for the start address is &#039;&#039;&#039;A=(C-1)/8&#039;&#039;&#039; where C is a channel number that you want the controller to start with. Examples: 9, 17, 25, 33, 41, 49, 57, etc. Do you notice that the channel number is always one more than a number evenly divisible by eight? This is because each PIC in a typical Renard controller controls 8 channels. Therefore, the last channel number in a Renard controller is always a factor of 8 and why the next channel number is 1 greater.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Multi-PIC Controllers ==&lt;br /&gt;
:So far, the examples have used only 8-channel controllers that use a single PIC. When you use controllers that have multiple PICs, the formula works the same way. Let’s examine a 64-channel system using four 16-channel wireless Renards. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::* Apply the formula: A=(C-1)/8 for the first controller: 1 – 1 = 0, then 0/8 = 0 so the start address of the first controller is zero. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::* We want the 2nd controller to start with channel 17, so applying the A=(C-1)/8 formula, we get a start address 2 for the 2nd controller: 17-1= 16, divide 16/8 = 2.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::* We want the 3rd controller to start with channel 33, and applying the formula we get a start address of 4: (33 – 1 = 32, then 32/8 = 4).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::* The 4th controller will start with channel 49, and we calculate that start address at 6: (49 – 1 = 48, then 48/8 = 6).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Startaddr5.JPG]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:Here’s an example of a 96-channel wireless design using four, 24-channel controllers. Applying the A=(C-1)/8 formula we arrive at start address 0, 3, 6 and 9 for the four controllers.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Startaddr6.JPG]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Mixing controllers with different channel counts ==&lt;br /&gt;
:When start addresses are used with controllers of varying channel counts, just use the formula to calculate the start address for each controller one controller at a time. In this 80-channel design with 5 controllers, in L-R order each controller’s channel counts are 24, 8, 16, 24 and 8. You can do the math yourself.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Startaddr7.JPG]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:It’s obviously a good idea to pre-plan your display and assign controllers to various portions of your display depending on the number of channels you need in each location. As you do that, you’ll find it helpful to label each controller in some way to denote where in the display it will be, the expected channels it will use and its start address. This will make it easier later on when/if something isn’t working right. Without labeling the controller, there will be no outwardly visible way to know what it’s supposed to be doing except by watching its lights.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== How to Set the Start Address ==&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;&#039;You will need:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
:::•	Renard firmware version 20090915.asm. (You can get it here: [[Media:Renard-20090915.asm]])&lt;br /&gt;
:::•	A text editor such as Windows Notepad.&lt;br /&gt;
:::•	MPASM, or other Microchip-compatible compiler to generate the HEX code for the PICs&lt;br /&gt;
:::•	A PIC programmer for PIC16F688 chips.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;&#039;Step-by-step procedure:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
::1.	Open the ASM file using the text editor and find the following section of code (it will be one of the earliest sections of the code following the copyright information):&lt;br /&gt;
:::::START_ADDR should normally be 0.  It is changed to another value if you &lt;br /&gt;
:::::wish for the particular PIC to ignore a certain number of (8-byte) records &lt;br /&gt;
:::::at the start of a frame (for wireless operation, mostly). &lt;br /&gt;
:::::define START_ADDR 0&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:2.	Change the number at the end of the &#039;&#039;&#039;define START_ADDR line&#039;&#039;&#039;. The number you enter must be an integer. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:3.	Save the file.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:4.	Open MPASM, be sure it is configured for the 16F688 chip, use the BROWSE button to find the Source File Name of your ASM file (the example here is start_addr.asm)   &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Startaddr8.JPG | 450px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:5.	Click the Assemble button. You may encounter warning messages such as in the example below, and these are expected. But if there are no errors you should be fine. Click the OK button to complete the operation.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Startaddr9.JPG | 200px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:6.	Open the PIC programmer and flash the designated PIC with the resulting HEX file you just assembled. Remember, this should be the FIRST PIC in a controller that has more than one PIC chip.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:7.	Insert the PIC back in your controller. Be sure to label the controller so that you know the start address and the expected channels it will use.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;&#039;Time Saver Suggestion:&#039;&#039;&#039; if you know that you will have many controllers with special start addresses but you don’t yet know what they are, after you compile the first ASM into HEX code, rename the resulting HEX file afterward with something that denotes what the starting address of that file is and simply repeat the process, changing the value, saving the file, recompiling into HEX, etc. and create multiple HEX files, such as in the example to the right. You may not use all of them, but they’ll always be available for you to quickly reflash a PIC whenever necessary. In this example, startaddr-34.HEX equates to 34 x 8 = 272 channels, virtually at the top of the recommended maximum for a single serial port using 57,600bps and sequencing at 50ms intervals.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::::[[File:Startaddr10.JPG | 300px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Common Questions &amp;amp; Answers ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;&#039;Which PIC gets the start address?&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
:Only the &#039;&#039;first&#039;&#039; PIC in each controller. If you don’t know which PIC that is or it isn’t marked, follow the circuit board tracings from the channel 1 output back to its PIC.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;&#039;Can I set the address in more than one PIC on a controller?&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
:Technically yes, but in practice, don’t do it. It may make it very difficult for you to analyze what’s going on in your display afterward. Set the start address only on the first PIC and leave the others alone.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;&#039;Do I need to do anything special in Vixen?&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
:No, just sequence like you normally do. It may be helpful to create a special sort order for the Vixen profile so that channels can be viewed together &#039;&#039;by controller&#039;&#039; instead of by color or location in the display. The idea is to have some method for cross-referencing various channels to various controllers for troubleshooting purposes. An alternative method would be to create a testing sequence that activates all channels on a single controller for a few seconds, then move to another controller, etc. In any event, you&#039;ll probably want some method to test the layout to make sure the controllers have the right addresses and you see what you expect to see. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;&#039;What if I need to replace a controller in my display?&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
:Use another Renard controller of the same channel count that has the first PIC flashed with the same START_ADDR and simply plug it in.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;&#039;Can I flash the PIC in my Renard controller &#039;&#039;in-circuit?&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
:Unless you have added in-circuit programming capability to your controller or have built a special cable/connector that can clamp onto the PIC&#039;s pins, you will have to remove the first PIC and flash it with your PIC Programmer as you normally would. The concept of adding an in-circuit header to a Renard controller is a good one – perhaps someone will come up with a DIY solution in the future!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;&#039;If I move a controller in my display, should I change the start address, too?&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
:Maybe. It depends on what channels you want the controller to use.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;&#039;Can I change my XBee modules’ PAN ID addresses, too?&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
:Yes, and in some cases it may actually be required. For example, if you have two serial ports and plan to broadcast channel controls out on both, you will need to use two PAN IDs, one for each port. If you used the same PAN ID for both ports, the XBee receivers will get very confused when they get transmissions from two sources simultaneously! Remember, only XBee radios that use the same PAN ID can communicate with one another. If you experience interference even when using different PAN IDs, you can also change the XBee channel setting to use a different channel.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;&#039;Does the Ren-C have start address capability?&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
:No. The start address pertains only to the firmware for the 16F688 chip; the Ren-C uses different firmware for its 16F627A chip. However, if you think outside the box a little, you can certainly have a start address on the controller immediately before the Ren-C and daisy chain the Ren-C off of that controller. For example, you might set the start address for an SS8 controller to 6 so that the SS8 begins at channel 49, connect the Ren-C/595 to the SS8’s RS-OUT jack and the Ren-C/595 would then become channels 57-120. (Of course, remember that the Ren-C still requires a ZC signal as well.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;&#039;Does the start address work with DMX?&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
:No, DMX has its own addressing scheme.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;&#039;How do I disable the start address?&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
:Either reflash the chip with a version that has the START_ADDR set to zero or reflash using the original 16F688 firmware that doesn’t include the start address option.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;&#039;Does the start address work with the Renard diagnostic firmware?&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
:No. The diagnostic firmware does not have the start address capability.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;&#039;How do I test the controller to determine if I used the right start address?&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
:If your controller has diagnostic LEDs, remember that they react to channels 2, 5-6-7-8. For example, if the controller’s start address is set to 6, channel 1 on that controller is actually Vixen channel 49. Therefore, channels 2, 5-6-7-8 are using Vixen channels 50, 53-54-55-56 and you should be able to use the Vixen channel test function to turn on the diagnostic LEDs one at a time. (We’re assuming that all channels are on the same serial port for this example.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;&#039;I use several serial ports on my PC. How do I know what address to use?&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
:This is where it gets confusing and you literally have to map it out on paper. Let’s say that you have two COM ports, and each port carries 128 channels for a total of 256 channels on your Vixen screen. Luckily, Vixen only allows defining a contiguous group of channels to a specific plugin and the plugin is assigned to its own port, so it shouldn’t be too difficult to identify which Vixen channels go to which port. Let’s assume in this example that Vixen channels 1-128 are assigned to COM1 and channels 129-256 are assigned to COM2. A Renard controller doesn’t know which port its channels are coming from; it only knows that channel information is coming to it. Therefore, the start address is relative to the total number of channels on that port. So in this example with 128 channels on COM1 and another 128 on COM2, a controller that has a start address of 2 would start with Vixen channel 17 if it were being controlled via COM1 but would start with Vixen channel 145 (128 + 17) if it were being controlled via COM2.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:The bottom line with using multiple serial ports is that you need to know which controllers are being controlled from each port, and assign the controllers their own order relative to that port. So while you may have sixteen, 16-channel Renard controllers in your display, it may help your organization to think of them as 1A, 2A, 3A etc. and 1B, 2B, 3B, etc. where eight are assigned to port A and the other eight assigned to port B.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:In any event, this takes some careful thought, a pencil and a pad of paper to carefully map out which controllers are where in your display, which port is being used to control them, how many channels each has and what the start_addr will be. It’s certainly not difficult math, but it does require some clear thinking.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;&#039;Is it possible to overlap channels by use of the start address?&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
:Yes, but you run the risk of orphaning channels later on. Let’s say that you had 72 channels in use on three, 24-channel controllers and you decided to change and use the 3rd controller to double-up on channels 41-48 to handle some extra lights and the resulting extra electrical current required.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:::* Controller #1: channels 1-24, start address = 0  (calculation: 1 – 1 = 0, then 0/8 = 0)&lt;br /&gt;
:::* Controller #2: channels 25-48, start address = 3 (calculation: 25 – 1 = 24, then 24/8 = 3)&lt;br /&gt;
:::* Controller #3: channels 41-64, start address = 5 (calculation: 41 – 1 = 40, then 40/8 = 5)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::Suddenly channels 65-72 don’t come on because by overlapping 8 channels, you’ve effectively reduced the total channel coverage from 72 down to 64. The point is that overlapping can cause some unexpected results, but it is certainly possible. You just have to plan for it.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;&#039;Can any channel be the start address?&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
:No, because the PICs in Renard controllers are 8-bit chips and therefore, the firmware requires that the address is based on 8-channel boundaries. However, you can simulate other start addresses by configuring the address so that the controller covers the desired channel(s) you want but then don’t plug any lights into the controller for channels you don’t want. For example, an address of 2 starts with channel 17, but if you really only want lights on channels 21-24, only plug lights into channels 21-24 and leave the others empty. This wastes a little capacity, of course, but nobody ever said that you always have to plug lights into every channel on a controller – you may decide to use only some channels while leaving others without lights plugged into them. It has the same end effect.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;&#039;Can I use the start address with my wired controllers?&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
:Yes, and if you chain other controllers off of the specially addressed one, they will behave normally just like you’d expect them to. Also remember that it’s possible to skip channels completely, too. For example, if you have two 24 channel controllers and you want one of them to use start address 0 (for channels 1-24) and the other controller at start address 6 (for channels 49-72) channels 25-48 won’t be anywhere in the display.  Channels that are “skipped” like this just disappear unless you configure other controllers to display them.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;&#039;Can I use the start address with daisy-chained controllers?&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
:Yes, but you should only set the start address on the FIRST controller and leave the remaining daisy chained controllers set to start address zero or use standard Renard firmware on them. Example: think about three SS16 controllers daisy chained together. Essentially, the three controllers form one large 48-channel controller, or at least that&#039;s what it looks like in a Vixen sequence. If you have a 120-channel sequence and you set the start address of the first of the SS16 controllers to be 4, you&#039;re essentially telling the first one to skip 32 channels and start with channel 33. Therefore, the three daisy chained SS16s would then use channels 33-80 because the start address of the first one establishes the starting channel address and the data flows through the other two controllers just like normal.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;&#039;Can I set the start address on EACH controller that&#039;s still daisy chained together?&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
:Yes, but this practice is not recommended. Determining which channels a controller will react to becomes quite confusing and even more difficult to troubleshoot and plan in your sequences. The bottom line is that while it will work, it will make it very confusing to use. To figure it out, you need a complete understanding of how the Renard firmware works and how the data packets are reformatted during the daisy chain process from one PIC to the next. However, in practice, doing so makes it possible for to make two or three controllers react to an extremely wide range of channels which you may not otherwise be able to do.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;&#039;Do I have to change the addresses every year?&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
:Maybe. If your display changes every year, then probably yes. If you put up exactly the same display every year and put exactly the same controllers out in the same locations, then perhaps not.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;&#039;If I run into trouble, who can I call for help?&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
:Because the Renard start address concept is quite dependent on the physical layout of your display as well as the physical connections between units and the configuration of Vixen on your computer, the one who can best deal with problem issues is YOU because you can actually SEE these pieces of your display. Take it one step at a time, get one controller working at a time, and you’ll work through them. However, &#039;&#039;&#039;dirknerkle&#039;&#039;&#039; authored this document, so try him first. &#039;&#039;&#039;That said, if your question is about setting the start address for multiple pics on the same controller or setting different start addresses for daisychained controllers, &#039;&#039;you&#039;re on your own.&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Table of Start Address Settings ==&lt;br /&gt;
:Here&#039;s a table of START_ADDR settings and the respective starting channel for that controller.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::ADDR --- Channel&lt;br /&gt;
:::0 ------ 1&lt;br /&gt;
:::1 ------ 9&lt;br /&gt;
:::2 ------ 17&lt;br /&gt;
:::3 ------ 25&lt;br /&gt;
:::4 ------ 33&lt;br /&gt;
:::5 ------ 41&lt;br /&gt;
:::6 ------ 49&lt;br /&gt;
:::7 ------ 57&lt;br /&gt;
:::8 ------ 65&lt;br /&gt;
:::9 ------ 73&lt;br /&gt;
:::10 ------ 81&lt;br /&gt;
:::11 ------ 89&lt;br /&gt;
:::12 ------ 97&lt;br /&gt;
:::13 ------ 105&lt;br /&gt;
:::14 ------ 113&lt;br /&gt;
:::15 ------ 121&lt;br /&gt;
:::16 ------ 129&lt;br /&gt;
:::17 ------ 137&lt;br /&gt;
:::18 ------ 145&lt;br /&gt;
:::19 ------ 153&lt;br /&gt;
:::20 ------ 161&lt;br /&gt;
:::21 ------ 169&lt;br /&gt;
:::22 ------ 177&lt;br /&gt;
:::23 ------ 185&lt;br /&gt;
:::24 ------ 193&lt;br /&gt;
:::25 ------ 201&lt;br /&gt;
:::26 ------ 209&lt;br /&gt;
:::27 ------ 217&lt;br /&gt;
:::28 ------ 225&lt;br /&gt;
:::29 ------ 233&lt;br /&gt;
:::30 ------ 241&lt;br /&gt;
:::31 ------ 249&lt;br /&gt;
:::32 ------ 257&lt;br /&gt;
:::33 ------ 265&lt;br /&gt;
:::34 ------ 273&lt;br /&gt;
:::35 ------ 281&lt;br /&gt;
:::36 ------ 289&lt;br /&gt;
:::37 ------ 297&lt;br /&gt;
:::38 ------ 305&lt;br /&gt;
:::39 ------ 313&lt;br /&gt;
:::40 ------ 321&lt;br /&gt;
:::41 ------ 329&lt;br /&gt;
:::42 ------ 337&lt;br /&gt;
:::43 ------ 345&lt;br /&gt;
:::44 ------ 353&lt;br /&gt;
:::45 ------ 361&lt;br /&gt;
:::46 ------ 369&lt;br /&gt;
:::47 ------ 377&lt;br /&gt;
:::48 ------ 385&lt;br /&gt;
:::49 ------ 393&lt;br /&gt;
:::50 ------ 401&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:[[Renard_Firmware | Go back to Renard Firmware]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Renard]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Firmware]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:DIYC Index]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Dirknerkle</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=Renard_Start_Address_Configuration_Guide&amp;diff=13164</id>
		<title>Renard Start Address Configuration Guide</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=Renard_Start_Address_Configuration_Guide&amp;diff=13164"/>
		<updated>2021-12-06T20:19:59Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Dirknerkle: /* What is the Start Address? */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;== Background ==&lt;br /&gt;
:One of the main goals of the original Renard controller design was simplicity, and it was the original intent that all Renard controllers were identical, 8-channel units. Simplicity allowed for a person to expand a system simply by building and plugging in another 8-channel controller; 8 would then become 16, 16 would become 24, etc. Because the controllers were identical they were also interchangeable – it didn’t matter which was the first one and which the second or third one. There was no need for the user to set an address for this controller or that controller; it was simply “plug in and go.” However, with the advent of 16, 24, and even 64-channel Renard controllers, the concept has expanded over the years and has evolved into increasingly complex networks of controllers and thousands of feet or even miles of wires. But the original firmware that has been used in the Renard system has remained simple and unaddressable. Until now.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== What is the Start Address? ==&lt;br /&gt;
:The start address is a new feature of Renard firmware that makes a single Renard controller addressable.  Not in the purest sense such as an IP address or network name, but in a relative sense to the channel information that is sent to it. The feature allows a Renard controller to start decoding channels at a specific channel out of an entire range of channels. For example, instead of a controller automatically displaying channels 1-24, it can be set to skip channels 1-24 and start with channel 25 instead. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:The feature is primarily designed to aid those who use wireless communications in their light displays (although it can also be used with wired RS-485 systems). With wireless, it’s easy to broadcast all channels; all receivers in range of the transmitter will then pick up the same signal simultaneously. The start address provides a way for a wireless controller to begin decoding data at a specific channel out of the entire broadcast set of channels.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
IMPORTANT: The information provided here was intended to be used with the popular PIC16F688 chip that most Renard controllers use. While the general concepts apply to all Renard-type firmware, the actual start address and its relationship to the actual channel may be different for chips other than the PIC16F688. Note that for the PIC16F1825 chip, which was implemented later, the start address starts at 1 for channel 1 whereas the start address for the 16F688 started at 0 for channel 1. To convert the information below to apply to the PIC16F1825 chip, simply increment the desired start address by one.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Who should use it? ==&lt;br /&gt;
:The Renard start address feature is considered to be an advanced concept and is very likely to be quite confusing to someone new to DIY lighting controls. To successfully implement the feature, a solid understanding of how Renard controllers function normally is extremely important. One must also know how to modify assembly language program code, how to compile the code into HEX format and flash a PIC with the updated firmware.  It’s good to remember that if you make a mistake with the start address, you can always restore your Renard controller to normal operation by reflashing the PIC with the original Renard firmware.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Renard Start Address Concepts ==&lt;br /&gt;
:For the sake of explanation, consider a typical 32-channel Renard system utilizing a computer and four identical 8-channel controllers where the computer’s control signal connects to the first controller and all the other controllers are in a daisy-chain configuration, such as the example below. &lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Startaddr1.JPG]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:Our example uses an 8-channel controller because it has only a single PIC16F688 chip, which will be critical to understanding how to set the starting address feature later on. Another helpful concept is to remember that many Renard controllers can be connected to a single serial port and that there’s a limit to the total number of channels a single port can handle, and this is generally based on the sequence timing you use in Vixen. This is important because the starting address pertains to all the channels that come from a single serial port. If you use both COM1 and COM2, the starting addresses for controllers on COM1 are independent from starting addresses for controllers on COM2.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:Let’s change the normal Renard layout by connecting a 4-way splitter to the serial cable and then plugging each of the four 8-channel controllers into the splitter so that all four controllers can receive the same 32-channel signals simultaneously in a sort of “serial broadcast.” In this example, each controller uses the first eight channels of the 32-channel data and passes the remaining channels to the next controller – except the controllers aren’t connected to one another! Therefore, in this layout, each 8-channel controller gets only the first 8 channels and channels 9-32 don’t go anywhere because there is no “daisy chain” of controllers – each is an individual, standalone controller and has nowhere to pass the unused channel information along.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Startaddr2.JPG]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:Now let’s reflash the PIC in each controller with a “start address” that tells the PIC that instead of automatically taking the first channels it gets, to start decoding data at a different channel number instead. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:::•	Address 0 means normal operation.&lt;br /&gt;
:::•	Address 1 means start with channel 9 (skip channels 1-8)&lt;br /&gt;
:::•	Address 2 means start with channel 17 (skip channels 1-16)&lt;br /&gt;
:::•	Address 3 means start with channel 25 (skip channels 1-24)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Startaddr3.JPG]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::Now all 32 channels are in use again.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:Let’s switch gears again and replace the 32-channel setup with a 64-channel wireless model where all 64-channels are broadcast wirelessly from the computer and each 8-channel wireless controller is configured using individual starting addresses from the full 64-channel broadcast. Using identical controllers makes it easy to calculate the starting address for each unit. (This particular design would also require that all Ren-W wireless adapters be configured with the same PAN ID and no individual XBee radio addressing would be used at all. This is the purest “global broadcast” mode possible and one of the simplest ways to implement a Ren-W network yet retain individual controller channel assignments.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:64-channel_setup.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:The start address concept is most effective when all channel information can be distributed to all controllers simultaneously and is a perfect fit for those who use Ren-W wireless adapters.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== How to calculate the start address ==&lt;br /&gt;
:The formula for the start address is &#039;&#039;&#039;A=(C-1)/8&#039;&#039;&#039; where C is a channel number that you want the controller to start with. Examples: 9, 17, 25, 33, 41, 49, 57, etc. Do you notice that the channel number is always one more than a number evenly divisible by eight? This is because each PIC in a typical Renard controller controls 8 channels. Therefore, the last channel number in a Renard controller is always a factor of 8 and why the next channel number is 1 greater.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Multi-PIC Controllers ==&lt;br /&gt;
:So far, the examples have used only 8-channel controllers that use a single PIC. When you use controllers that have multiple PICs, the formula works the same way. Let’s examine a 64-channel system using four 16-channel wireless Renards. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::* Apply the formula: A=(C-1)/8 for the first controller: 1 – 1 = 0, then 0/8 = 0 so the start address of the first controller is zero. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::* We want the 2nd controller to start with channel 17, so applying the A=(C-1)/8 formula, we get a start address 2 for the 2nd controller: 17-1= 16, divide 16/8 = 2.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::* We want the 3rd controller to start with channel 33, and applying the formula we get a start address of 4: (33 – 1 = 32, then 32/8 = 4).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::* The 4th controller will start with channel 49, and we calculate that start address at 6: (49 – 1 = 48, then 48/8 = 6).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Startaddr5.JPG]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:Here’s an example of a 96-channel wireless design using four, 24-channel controllers. Applying the A=(C-1)/8 formula we arrive at start address 0, 3, 6 and 9 for the four controllers.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Startaddr6.JPG]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Mixing controllers with different channel counts ==&lt;br /&gt;
:When start addresses are used with controllers of varying channel counts, just use the formula to calculate the start address for each controller one controller at a time. In this 80-channel design with 5 controllers, in L-R order each controller’s channel counts are 24, 8, 16, 24 and 8. You can do the math yourself.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Startaddr7.JPG]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:It’s obviously a good idea to pre-plan your display and assign controllers to various portions of your display depending on the number of channels you need in each location. As you do that, you’ll find it helpful to label each controller in some way to denote where in the display it will be, the expected channels it will use and its start address. This will make it easier later on when/if something isn’t working right. Without labeling the controller, there will be no outwardly visible way to know what it’s supposed to be doing except by watching its lights.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== How to Set the Start Address ==&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;&#039;You will need:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
:::•	Renard firmware version 20090915.asm. (You can get it here: [[Media:Renard-20090915.asm]])&lt;br /&gt;
:::•	A text editor such as Windows Notepad.&lt;br /&gt;
:::•	MPASM, or other Microchip-compatible compiler to generate the HEX code for the PICs&lt;br /&gt;
:::•	A PIC programmer for PIC16F688 chips.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;&#039;Step-by-step procedure:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
::1.	Open the ASM file using the text editor and find the following section of code (it will be one of the earliest sections of the code following the copyright information):&lt;br /&gt;
:::::START_ADDR should normally be 0.  It is changed to another value if you &lt;br /&gt;
:::::wish for the particular PIC to ignore a certain number of (8-byte) records &lt;br /&gt;
:::::at the start of a frame (for wireless operation, mostly). &lt;br /&gt;
:::::define START_ADDR 0&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:2.	Change the number at the end of the &#039;&#039;&#039;define START_ADDR line&#039;&#039;&#039;. The number you enter must be an integer. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:3.	Save the file.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:4.	Open MPASM, be sure it is configured for the 16F688 chip, use the BROWSE button to find the Source File Name of your ASM file (the example here is start_addr.asm)   &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Startaddr8.JPG | 450px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:5.	Click the Assemble button. You may encounter warning messages such as in the example below, and these are expected. But if there are no errors you should be fine. Click the OK button to complete the operation.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Startaddr9.JPG | 200px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:6.	Open the PIC programmer and flash the designated PIC with the resulting HEX file you just assembled. Remember, this should be the FIRST PIC in a controller that has more than one PIC chip.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:7.	Insert the PIC back in your controller. Be sure to label the controller so that you know the start address and the expected channels it will use.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;&#039;Time Saver Suggestion:&#039;&#039;&#039; if you know that you will have many controllers with special start addresses but you don’t yet know what they are, after you compile the first ASM into HEX code, rename the resulting HEX file afterward with something that denotes what the starting address of that file is and simply repeat the process, changing the value, saving the file, recompiling into HEX, etc. and create multiple HEX files, such as in the example to the right. You may not use all of them, but they’ll always be available for you to quickly reflash a PIC whenever necessary. In this example, startaddr-34.HEX equates to 34 x 8 = 272 channels, virtually at the top of the recommended maximum for a single serial port using 57,600bps and sequencing at 50ms intervals.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::::[[File:Startaddr10.JPG | 300px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Common Questions &amp;amp; Answers ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;&#039;Which PIC gets the start address?&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
:Only the &#039;&#039;first&#039;&#039; PIC in each controller. If you don’t know which PIC that is or it isn’t marked, follow the circuit board tracings from the channel 1 output back to its PIC.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;&#039;Can I set the address in more than one PIC on a controller?&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
:Technically yes, but in practice, don’t do it. It may make it very difficult for you to analyze what’s going on in your display afterward. Set the start address only on the first PIC and leave the others alone.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;&#039;Do I need to do anything special in Vixen?&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
:No, just sequence like you normally do. It may be helpful to create a special sort order for the Vixen profile so that channels can be viewed together &#039;&#039;by controller&#039;&#039; instead of by color or location in the display. The idea is to have some method for cross-referencing various channels to various controllers for troubleshooting purposes. An alternative method would be to create a testing sequence that activates all channels on a single controller for a few seconds, then move to another controller, etc. In any event, you&#039;ll probably want some method to test the layout to make sure the controllers have the right addresses and you see what you expect to see. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;&#039;What if I need to replace a controller in my display?&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
:Use another Renard controller of the same channel count that has the first PIC flashed with the same START_ADDR and simply plug it in.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;&#039;Can I flash the PIC in my Renard controller &#039;&#039;in-circuit?&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
:Unless you have added in-circuit programming capability to your controller or have built a special cable/connector that can clamp onto the PIC&#039;s pins, you will have to remove the first PIC and flash it with your PIC Programmer as you normally would. The concept of adding an in-circuit header to a Renard controller is a good one – perhaps someone will come up with a DIY solution in the future!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;&#039;If I move a controller in my display, should I change the start address, too?&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
:Maybe. It depends on what channels you want the controller to use.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;&#039;Can I change my XBee modules’ PAN ID addresses, too?&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
:Yes, and in some cases it may actually be required. For example, if you have two serial ports and plan to broadcast channel controls out on both, you will need to use two PAN IDs, one for each port. If you used the same PAN ID for both ports, the XBee receivers will get very confused when they get transmissions from two sources simultaneously! Remember, only XBee radios that use the same PAN ID can communicate with one another. If you experience interference even when using different PAN IDs, you can also change the XBee channel setting to use a different channel.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;&#039;Does the Ren-C have start address capability?&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
:No. The start address pertains only to the firmware for the 16F688 chip; the Ren-C uses different firmware for its 16F627A chip. However, if you think outside the box a little, you can certainly have a start address on the controller immediately before the Ren-C and daisy chain the Ren-C off of that controller. For example, you might set the start address for an SS8 controller to 6 so that the SS8 begins at channel 49, connect the Ren-C/595 to the SS8’s RS-OUT jack and the Ren-C/595 would then become channels 57-120. (Of course, remember that the Ren-C still requires a ZC signal as well.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;&#039;Does the start address work with DMX?&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
:No, DMX has its own addressing scheme.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;&#039;How do I disable the start address?&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
:Either reflash the chip with a version that has the START_ADDR set to zero or reflash using the original 16F688 firmware that doesn’t include the start address option.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;&#039;Does the start address work with the Renard diagnostic firmware?&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
:No. The diagnostic firmware does not have the start address capability.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;&#039;How do I test the controller to determine if I used the right start address?&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
:If your controller has diagnostic LEDs, remember that they react to channels 2, 5-6-7-8. For example, if the controller’s start address is set to 6, channel 1 on that controller is actually Vixen channel 49. Therefore, channels 2, 5-6-7-8 are using Vixen channels 50, 53-54-55-56 and you should be able to use the Vixen channel test function to turn on the diagnostic LEDs one at a time. (We’re assuming that all channels are on the same serial port for this example.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;&#039;I use several serial ports on my PC. How do I know what address to use?&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
:This is where it gets confusing and you literally have to map it out on paper. Let’s say that you have two COM ports, and each port carries 128 channels for a total of 256 channels on your Vixen screen. Luckily, Vixen only allows defining a contiguous group of channels to a specific plugin and the plugin is assigned to its own port, so it shouldn’t be too difficult to identify which Vixen channels go to which port. Let’s assume in this example that Vixen channels 1-128 are assigned to COM1 and channels 129-256 are assigned to COM2. A Renard controller doesn’t know which port its channels are coming from; it only knows that channel information is coming to it. Therefore, the start address is relative to the total number of channels on that port. So in this example with 128 channels on COM1 and another 128 on COM2, a controller that has a start address of 2 would start with Vixen channel 17 if it were being controlled via COM1 but would start with Vixen channel 145 (128 + 17) if it were being controlled via COM2.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:The bottom line with using multiple serial ports is that you need to know which controllers are being controlled from each port, and assign the controllers their own order relative to that port. So while you may have sixteen, 16-channel Renard controllers in your display, it may help your organization to think of them as 1A, 2A, 3A etc. and 1B, 2B, 3B, etc. where eight are assigned to port A and the other eight assigned to port B.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:In any event, this takes some careful thought, a pencil and a pad of paper to carefully map out which controllers are where in your display, which port is being used to control them, how many channels each has and what the start_addr will be. It’s certainly not difficult math, but it does require some clear thinking.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;&#039;Is it possible to overlap channels by use of the start address?&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
:Yes, but you run the risk of orphaning channels later on. Let’s say that you had 72 channels in use on three, 24-channel controllers and you decided to change and use the 3rd controller to double-up on channels 41-48 to handle some extra lights and the resulting extra electrical current required.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:::* Controller #1: channels 1-24, start address = 0  (calculation: 1 – 1 = 0, then 0/8 = 0)&lt;br /&gt;
:::* Controller #2: channels 25-48, start address = 3 (calculation: 25 – 1 = 24, then 24/8 = 3)&lt;br /&gt;
:::* Controller #3: channels 41-64, start address = 5 (calculation: 41 – 1 = 40, then 40/8 = 5)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::Suddenly channels 65-72 don’t come on because by overlapping 8 channels, you’ve effectively reduced the total channel coverage from 72 down to 64. The point is that overlapping can cause some unexpected results, but it is certainly possible. You just have to plan for it.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;&#039;Can any channel be the start address?&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
:No, because the PICs in Renard controllers are 8-bit chips and therefore, the firmware requires that the address is based on 8-channel boundaries. However, you can simulate other start addresses by configuring the address so that the controller covers the desired channel(s) you want but then don’t plug any lights into the controller for channels you don’t want. For example, an address of 2 starts with channel 17, but if you really only want lights on channels 21-24, only plug lights into channels 21-24 and leave the others empty. This wastes a little capacity, of course, but nobody ever said that you always have to plug lights into every channel on a controller – you may decide to use only some channels while leaving others without lights plugged into them. It has the same end effect.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;&#039;Can I use the start address with my wired controllers?&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
:Yes, and if you chain other controllers off of the specially addressed one, they will behave normally just like you’d expect them to. Also remember that it’s possible to skip channels completely, too. For example, if you have two 24 channel controllers and you want one of them to use start address 0 (for channels 1-24) and the other controller at start address 6 (for channels 49-72) channels 25-48 won’t be anywhere in the display.  Channels that are “skipped” like this just disappear unless you configure other controllers to display them.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;&#039;Can I use the start address with daisy-chained controllers?&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
:Yes, but you should only set the start address on the FIRST controller and leave the remaining daisy chained controllers set to start address zero or use standard Renard firmware on them. Example: think about three SS16 controllers daisy chained together. Essentially, the three controllers form one large 48-channel controller, or at least that&#039;s what it looks like in a Vixen sequence. If you have a 120-channel sequence and you set the start address of the first of the SS16 controllers to be 4, you&#039;re essentially telling the first one to skip 32 channels and start with channel 33. Therefore, the three daisy chained SS16s would then use channels 33-80 because the start address of the first one establishes the starting channel address and the data flows through the other two controllers just like normal.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;&#039;Can I set the start address on EACH controller that&#039;s still daisy chained together?&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
:Yes, but this practice is not recommended. Determining which channels a controller will react to becomes quite confusing and even more difficult to troubleshoot and plan in your sequences. The bottom line is that while it will work, it will make it very confusing to use. To figure it out, you need a complete understanding of how the Renard firmware works and how the data packets are reformatted during the daisy chain process from one PIC to the next. However, in practice, doing so makes it possible for to make two or three controllers react to an extremely wide range of channels which you may not otherwise be able to do.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;&#039;Do I have to change the addresses every year?&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
:Maybe. If your display changes every year, then probably yes. If you put up exactly the same display every year and put exactly the same controllers out in the same locations, then perhaps not.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;&#039;If I run into trouble, who can I call for help?&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
:Because the Renard start address concept is quite dependent on the physical layout of your display as well as the physical connections between units and the configuration of Vixen on your computer, the one who can best deal with problem issues is YOU because you can actually SEE these pieces of your display. Take it one step at a time, get one controller working at a time, and you’ll work through them. However, &#039;&#039;&#039;dirknerkle&#039;&#039;&#039; authored this document, so try him first. &#039;&#039;&#039;That said, if your question is about setting the start address for multiple pics on the same controller or setting different start addresses for daisychained controllers, &#039;&#039;you&#039;re on your own.&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Table of Start Address Settings ==&lt;br /&gt;
:Here&#039;s a table of START_ADDR settings and the respective starting channel for that controller.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::ADDR --- Channel&lt;br /&gt;
:::0 ------ 1&lt;br /&gt;
:::1 ------ 9&lt;br /&gt;
:::2 ------ 17&lt;br /&gt;
:::3 ------ 25&lt;br /&gt;
:::4 ------ 33&lt;br /&gt;
:::5 ------ 41&lt;br /&gt;
:::6 ------ 49&lt;br /&gt;
:::7 ------ 57&lt;br /&gt;
:::8 ------ 65&lt;br /&gt;
:::9 ------ 73&lt;br /&gt;
:::10 ------ 81&lt;br /&gt;
:::11 ------ 89&lt;br /&gt;
:::12 ------ 97&lt;br /&gt;
:::13 ------ 105&lt;br /&gt;
:::14 ------ 113&lt;br /&gt;
:::15 ------ 121&lt;br /&gt;
:::16 ------ 129&lt;br /&gt;
:::17 ------ 137&lt;br /&gt;
:::18 ------ 145&lt;br /&gt;
:::19 ------ 153&lt;br /&gt;
:::20 ------ 161&lt;br /&gt;
:::21 ------ 169&lt;br /&gt;
:::22 ------ 177&lt;br /&gt;
:::23 ------ 185&lt;br /&gt;
:::24 ------ 193&lt;br /&gt;
:::25 ------ 201&lt;br /&gt;
:::26 ------ 209&lt;br /&gt;
:::27 ------ 217&lt;br /&gt;
:::28 ------ 225&lt;br /&gt;
:::29 ------ 233&lt;br /&gt;
:::30 ------ 241&lt;br /&gt;
:::31 ------ 249&lt;br /&gt;
:::32 ------ 257&lt;br /&gt;
:::33 ------ 265&lt;br /&gt;
:::34 ------ 273&lt;br /&gt;
:::35 ------ 281&lt;br /&gt;
:::36 ------ 289&lt;br /&gt;
:::37 ------ 297&lt;br /&gt;
:::38 ------ 305&lt;br /&gt;
:::39 ------ 313&lt;br /&gt;
:::40 ------ 321&lt;br /&gt;
:::41 ------ 329&lt;br /&gt;
:::42 ------ 337&lt;br /&gt;
:::43 ------ 345&lt;br /&gt;
:::44 ------ 353&lt;br /&gt;
:::45 ------ 361&lt;br /&gt;
:::46 ------ 369&lt;br /&gt;
:::47 ------ 377&lt;br /&gt;
:::48 ------ 385&lt;br /&gt;
:::49 ------ 393&lt;br /&gt;
:::50 ------ 401&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:[[Renard_Firmware | Go back to Renard Firmware]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Renard]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Firmware]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:DIYC Index]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Dirknerkle</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=Renard_Wireless_Converter&amp;diff=12888</id>
		<title>Renard Wireless Converter</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=Renard_Wireless_Converter&amp;diff=12888"/>
		<updated>2019-11-12T21:16:09Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Dirknerkle: Added preliminary note at the top of the page.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;:[[File:Ren-w_complete.JPG|330px ]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;NOTE 11/12/2019: This documentation is now 10-years old and some concepts written in these pages no longer apply. DIGI has new configuration software for the XBee radios and in addition, the XBee firmware has changed, too. To add insult to injury, the new Vixen and XLights sequencers do not support MARK parity, so throughout this documentation, set parity to NONE instead. With the advent of the inexpensive ESP8266 module, wireless control seems to be shifting to Wi-Fi networking, but XBee can still be a viable wireless control option for many DIY&#039;ers. XBee has greater range and is less affected by the communication issues and conflicts that Wi-Fi presents.&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;Why a Wireless Converter?&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:Sometimes it&#039;s not practical, affordable or maybe even possible to lay physical cable to a particular light controller. For example, trenching beneath your driveway to put a megatree on the other side is a messy, dirty and potentially expensive project. Or let&#039;s say you have a pond behind your house and you&#039;d like to put a display on the bank on the other side where there&#039;s already an electrical connection for a circulating fountain. Or maybe your neighbor across the street wants you to help him light his house -- trenching beneath a street or suspending cable above it would probably require multiple permits from your local municipality, if it were allowed at all. Maybe you&#039;ve built a new house and you don&#039;t want to leave a window open so all the cables can be routed through it to the outside. Or perhaps you live in an apartment building or rented condo where drilling a hole through the wall isn&#039;t even an option. These are just some examples of instances where a wireless connection to your outside Renard controller could very likely be the simplest and most affordable choice. That&#039;s why the Ren-W was invented.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::&#039;&#039;&#039;NOTES:&#039;&#039;&#039; In the years since this documentation was originally created, the physical Ren-W board has undergone a few revisions. Even so, the construction methodology hasn&#039;t changed and the concepts expressed in this WIKI continue to hold true. The antenna configurations of the XBee radios and the configuration setup of the XBee radios with XCTU software have not changed either, and the documents here should stand in good stead for a long time to come.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::It is highly suggested that instead of cherrypicking bits of information here and there, the reader should go through everything at least once to get a flavor for what wireless is all about. The Q&amp;amp;A and Troubleshooting sections solve most of the questions that users have had, and the section about antennas covers the various XBee antenna types quite thoroughly. Lastly, the Renard Start Address firmware is absolutely the right tool to accompany wireless operation. The Start Address guide is really a closely-knit companion piece to the Ren-W information.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;Overview&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:Ren-W is an inexpensive, compact (3”H x 2.5”W), easy-to-build and configure plug-in wireless adapter for Renard controllers and 595/Grinch systems that use Ren-C (see Ren-C note below). It can also be used with other Renard controllers with very slight modifications to the controllers to tap +5v power for the Ren-W. The Ren-W functions as a transparent serial connection between Renard controllers by converting RS-485 serial data into a digital stream, transmitting it wirelessly to another Ren-W where the digital stream is recombined into serial data and fed into the Renard controller’s normal RJ45 input jack (J2) via short cat5 cable, just like it would have been had the computer been hard-wired directly to the controller. In a typical Renard daisy chain design, channel data that a Renard controller can’t use is passed through and out the controller’s data-out RJ45 jack (J1) as RS-485 data, which is then fed back into the Ren-W, retransmitted to the next Ren-W that’s supposed to receive it, where the digital stream is recombined into serial data, etc. and the process is repeated for as many Ren-W adapters as are in the chain. The Ren-W uses inexpensive yet powerful XBee Pro wireless radio modules to perform the actual wireless transmission/reception functions. The cost to build a single Ren-W board varies from about $27 to $73, depending on the various electronic components chosen.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;DMX&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
:Ren-W is NOT compatible with DMX systems as DMX requires data speeds upwards of 250kbps. The XBee radio that Ren-W uses for wireless communication cannot support streaming data at that speed; it tops out at around 80kbps, which means that 57,600 baud is the highest communication speed Ren-W can support.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;Compatibility with various Renard Controllers&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:The Ren-W has been successfully tested with the following controllers:&lt;br /&gt;
:* WayneJ&#039;s Renard SS8, SS16 and SS24&lt;br /&gt;
:* Wjohn&#039;s Ren-C in either a Ren-C/Olsen 595 or Ren-C/Grinch setup&lt;br /&gt;
:* Wjohn&#039;s Ren64 ver XC5&lt;br /&gt;
:* Frank Kostyun&#039;s Ren24, versions 3.0 and 3.3, and the Ren24LV&lt;br /&gt;
:* Budude&#039;s Ren48LSD v3b&lt;br /&gt;
:* Renard Simple24 and Renard Simple32 by Mactayl and TStraub&lt;br /&gt;
:* CTMal&#039;s RenServo&lt;br /&gt;
:* Other Renard boards that use similar serial input/output circuitry should also work.&lt;br /&gt;
:* The following serial port parameters are highly suggested: Baud: 57600, Parity: Mark, Stop bits: 2&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;Renard basics and how they relate to Ren-W&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:In standard operation when multiple Renard SS controllers are daisy chained from one into the next, each controller uses the first X number of Vixen channels it receives where X is the number of channels the controller is designed to control. This is always a multiple of 8 because of the Renard program code and the PIC16F688 chips used in the SS controllers. The channels it can’t use are passed along to the next controller. Therefore, the order in which you chain one controller into the next can make a difference, and even more dramatically if the controllers have different channel counts. For example, if you had an SS8 and an SS24 (total 32 channels) and the first controller was the SS8 which daisy chained into the SS24, the SS8 will use the first 8 channels (1-8) and the SS24 would get the overflow channels 9-32. However, if the order was reversed and the SS24 was the first controller which daisy chained into the SS8, the SS24 will use the first 24 channels (1-24) and the SS8 would get the overflow channels 25-32.  The Ren-W simulates the daisy chain concept with “Point-to-point broadcasting” (PTP or Alternate PTP) because the Ren-W boards’ XBee radios are configured to provide exactly the same daisy chain logic, just as if you were connecting the controllers with cat5 cable to daisy chain one into the next, etc. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:To make two (or more) Renard controllers respond identically with the same Vixen commands, Vixen users usually replicate the Vixen channel information that controls one Renard to the corresponding channels that control the other Renards. However, what if you could use a “signal splitter” cable that distributed the same serial signal to multiple controllers, not unlike the concept of a “multi-outlet serial plug strip?” (Splitting an actual, stock serial signal to multiple devices without additional amplification is certainly possible but is generally a discouraged practice – the concept is used here for the illustration.) With such a splitter, each SS controller plugged into the “multi-outlet serial strip” would receive exactly the same channel information at the same time, just as if each was connected directly to the computer’s serial port. In the 32-channel example above however, since the SS8 has only 8 channels, it would be able to use only Vixen channels 1-8 while the SS24 would be able to use channels 1-24, &#039;&#039;and channels 25-32 would not be used by either controller.&#039;&#039; The “serial signal splitter” concept can be accomplished wirelessly quite easily; Ren-W refers to this as &#039;&#039;“Global Broadcasting.”&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:A version of Renard firmware is available that makes &amp;quot;global broadcasting&amp;quot; possible while still retaining individual channel control. The firmware is an ideal match for the Ren-W and uses a &amp;quot;start address&amp;quot; concept where you set the starting channel number for the controller(s). For more information read the configuration guide: [http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=Renard_Start_Address_Configuration_Guide Start Address Configuration Guide]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;XBee Wireless Radio Module Basics&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:XBee radio modules are essentially addressable wireless serial modems. Ren-W uses XBee radios as a “serial line replacement” to the normal cat5 wiring used to connect Renard controllers. XBees can communicate with one another on a one to one, one to many, or one to all &amp;quot;global broadcast&amp;quot; mode, depending on how each module is configured. The XBee’s configuration flexibility makes it possible to configure a Ren-W network so that multiple Renard controllers respond to the same channels or the network may be configured so that each controller has its own range of channels, which is more in keeping with normal Renard use. XBee radios are designed to accommodate streaming serial data up to 80kbps. Therefore, for best results, set your computer and Renard controllers at 57,600 baud; at 115,200 you may encounter erratic behavior.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;Ren-W Operating Modes&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;&#039;Receive only mode:&#039;&#039;&#039; only one XBee module is required, plugged into the XBee RX (right) side of the Ren-W board.&lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;&#039;Transmit only mode:&#039;&#039;&#039; only one XBee module is required, plugged into the XBee TX (left) side of the Ren-W board.&lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;&#039;Repeater mode:&#039;&#039;&#039; two XBee modules are needed, one for each side of the Ren-W board. One will receive, the other will retransmit the Vixen commands to the next Ren-W. This applies only to the SMA board, the only board that has space for two Xbee modules.&lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;&#039;E-mode repeater:&#039;&#039;&#039;  only one XBee module is needed to perform the repeater functions, plugged into the XBee TX (left) side of the Ren-W board. Because a single XBee module must perform receive/transmit sequentially instead of simultaneously, small periodic delays in propagating the Vixen commands to the next Ren-W unit may occur. Note also that E-mode requires the use of the alternate PTP configuration scheme, outlined below, as well as a jumper across JP5. Only the SMA board can operate in e-mode.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;Signal Propagation Delay&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:An XBee module can require up to 6ms to process received data; normally it&#039;s 2-3ms. While this is a very short period of time, consider that the delay is cumulative when multiple Ren-W nodes are configured in repeater mode. For example, in a Ren-W network of 5 nodes, the last SS controller could be nearly 30ms late in reacting to Vixen control commands. This may not be very perceptible in some situations but in others, it could become quite noticeable and the delay should be factored into the general design of a Ren-W network, and possibly during the light sequencing design as well. Note that in global broadcast mode, the delay is not cumulative as all receiving Ren-Ws receive the Vixen commands simultaneously and each unit would only be 2-3ms (or less) late. In actual testing, whatever delay may exist in global broadcast mode is virtually undetectable.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;Selecting the right XBee Modules - Which Do I Need?&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:XBee RF modules come in a standard and a &amp;quot;pro&amp;quot; version, and they operate in the 2.4ghz frequency spectrum. The modules do not interfere with wireless computer networks that also operate at 2.4ghz. The lower-powered standard version is said to have a line-of-sight transmission range upwards of 300 feet while the more powerful “pro” version is only ¼” larger and has a line-of-sight range upwards of a mile. In actual use, the distances are quite probably less than the stated specifications, especially considering the modules will likely be housed inside a protective non-metallic box of some kind. Mounting inside a metal box is not advised as it will severely hamper effective transmission distance.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:xbee_radio_modules.JPG|750px ]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:The antenna type on an XBee module can make a difference, too. (Be sure to read the pages about antennas!) The short, 1&amp;quot; wire antenna will provide better coverage than the flat, on-chip antenna. A version is also available with an antenna connector, presumably for a external directional antenna and even greater range potential. There is no significant price difference for the different antenna types and all are available for both the standard and pro versions. Suggestion: If using the Ren-W in normal repeater mode, consider using the lower powered, lesser expensive standard module for receiving and the more powerful pro module for transmitting, depending, of course, on the transmission distance needed. A special version of the Ren-W board is available for those who want to try an external antenna, using XBee modules that have the SMA antenna connector. Because of the length of this connector, the board has been reengineered so that the XBee modules point downward:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::::[[File:Ren-w_sma.JPG|310px ]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:Other than the power difference and slightly larger physical size of the “pro” version, the modules are interchangeable, pin-for-pin identical, and the configuration settings are identical as well. &#039;&#039;&#039;However, consider that the “pro” version has 10x the transmitting power of its lower-powered sibling, and it has a more sensitive receiver, too. These two factors make it the XBee module of choice for the Ren-W.&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:It’s important to remember that Ren-W was created to be more of an extension to an existing, wired system than as a complete replacement of it. Wireless connections are never as secure as hard-wired connections are and periodically, data drop-outs can and likely will occur because wireless data transfer is inherently much more complex. But used in the right situations, Ren-W can be an effective solution to a wiring logistics problem.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Ren-C Note:&#039;&#039;&#039; When Ren-W is connected to a Ren-C&#039;s RS-IN jack, it is necessary to install a balun on the cable between the Ren-W and the Ren-C. The balun will reduce the EMI interference that the XBee module creates in the cat5 wire. Without the balun, the Ren-C will likely experience framing errors and no communication with the Ren-W. (Radio Shack part# 273-0069)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Additional Ren-W Links&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Renard Wireless Converter]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W BOM and Construction]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Configuration Concepts]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W XBee Radio Configuration]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Questions/Answers]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Troubleshooting]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Antenna Info]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Controller Heater]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8102 Ren-W Topic on the DIYC Forums]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Renard]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Ren-W]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Renard SS8]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Renard SS16]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Renard SS24]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Renard 24]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Renard 48LSD]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Renard 64XC]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Renard64]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Renard16 (xmus)]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:DIYC Index]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Dirknerkle</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=Ren-W_XBee_Radio_Configuration&amp;diff=12887</id>
		<title>Ren-W XBee Radio Configuration</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=Ren-W_XBee_Radio_Configuration&amp;diff=12887"/>
		<updated>2019-11-12T21:07:24Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Dirknerkle: added a couple notations related to newer sequencers than vixen 2.1&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;== &#039;&#039;&#039;XBee Explorer Programmer&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:You will need the free XCTU software from Digi International (www.digi.com) Software download: [http://www.digi.com/support/productdetl.jsp?pid=3257&amp;amp;osvid=0&amp;amp;s=268&amp;amp;tp=5&amp;amp;tp2=0 XCTU SOFTWARE]. You also will need an XBee programming board. An inexpensive programming board is available from SparkFun Electronics (www.sparkfun.com - it&#039;s called the XBee USB Explorer, SparkFun part # WRL-08687, about $25. The same board was available from the Robot Shop for $20  www.robotshop.com) but prices may have changed. Other programming boards are available and prices vary widely.  For quite a while there have been vendors that sell boards on ebay for only $12 shipped.  They even come with a USB Cable. Search on ebay for: &amp;quot;XBEE Explorer&amp;quot; and then sort by price to find the boards.  The green board below is one such example.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:Alternately, you can also configure the XBee manually using a Ren-W board; information about manual configuration appears later in this document.&lt;br /&gt;
:::::::[[File:Xbeeprogrammerboard.jpg |200px]][[File:Xbee_explorer_board.jpg |200px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*1.	Verify that the programmer board is unplugged from the USB port, and plug the XBee module into the board. You may need the FTDI drivers to communicate with the Explorer board. Download the drivers from: [http://www.ftdichip.com/FTDrivers.htm http://www.ftdichip.com/FTDrivers.htm]&lt;br /&gt;
*2.	Connect the programming board into the computer&#039;s USB port. Wait a few moments for the computer to recognize it.&lt;br /&gt;
*3.	Start the XCTU software. Choose the proper communication port into which the programmer board is plugged. As shown below, odds are you should select the USB port and not any &#039;COM&#039; ports that may show up earlier in the list.&lt;br /&gt;
:::::[[File:Xctu-1.JPG |400px]] &lt;br /&gt;
*4.	Use the default communication parameters to begin (9600 baud, no flow control, 8 data bits, no parity, 1 stop bit). These are the default parameters for all XBee modules right out-of-the-box.&lt;br /&gt;
*5.	Connect to the XBee module by clicking the Test/Query button. After a few seconds, a confirmation box will appear that communication was successful. The box will also display the type and firmware version the XBee module is using. Close the test/query box to continue. Note: if a connection is not made, verify that the correct com port and baud rate was selected and try again. If still unsuccessful, retry using a different baud rate.&lt;br /&gt;
::::::[[File:Xctu-2.JPG |300px]]&lt;br /&gt;
*6.	Select the Modem Configuration tab. &lt;br /&gt;
*7.	Click the Read button. In a few moments, the screen will display multiple configuration items.&lt;br /&gt;
:::::[[File:Xctu-3aa.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
*8.	Only five items need changing: PAN ID, MAC Mode, Interface Data Rate, Parity and Packetization Timeout (scroll down the XCTU screen to view more settings).&lt;br /&gt;
:::&#039;&#039;&#039;PAN ID:&#039;&#039;&#039; this is akin to a &amp;quot;domain&amp;quot; for a computer network, but for XBee, the ID is numerical instead of text. The default is 3332 for all XBee modules, but you can change it to a different number if you wish or if another XBee network is in use nearby. Note that only modules with the same PAN ID can communicate with one another and that the easiest way to separate one XBee network from another is by changing the PAN ID. (Example: the Helix controller also uses the XBee radio modules; if you were using both Helix and a Ren-W, you should use a different PAN ID for the Ren-W than the Helix system.) See PAN ID concept notes on the previous page. &lt;br /&gt;
:::&#039;&#039;&#039;MAC Mode:&#039;&#039;&#039; choose option 1 – 802.15.4 No ACKS. While all the modes function, this setting is the fastest for streaming data.&lt;br /&gt;
:::::[[File:Xbee_cfg_parity.JPG |300px]]&lt;br /&gt;
:::&#039;&#039;&#039;Interface Data Rate:&#039;&#039;&#039; this is the speed at which the XBee will communicate with the Renard SS controllers. Set this to 57600 for best performance. While the maximum setting for both a Renard and an XBee is 115,200, XBee radios are designed to provide up to 80kbps streaming throughput; setting to 115,200 may cause erratic behavior.&lt;br /&gt;
:::&#039;&#039;&#039;Parity:&#039;&#039;&#039; this setting may or may not be visible on your screen. If it is not available, you should upgrade your XBee firmware to version 10E6 to solve the problem. Once the Parity setting is available, set it to MARK PARITY. NOTE: IF USING THE NEWER SEQUENCERS THAT DO NOT HAVE A PARITY OPTION FOR SERIAL COMMUNICATION, SET THE PARITY TO NONE.&lt;br /&gt;
:::&#039;&#039;&#039;Packetization Timeout:&#039;&#039;&#039; set to zero (the default is 3). A zero setting makes the XBee perform faster.&lt;br /&gt;
*9.	When changes are complete, click the Write button near the top of the XCTU screen to save the changes to the XBee’s internal memory. A progress bar will appear and in a few moments, the completion message will appear such as the one in the lower left corner of this screen:&lt;br /&gt;
:::::[[File:Xctu-3c.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
*10. Because the XBee&#039;s communication parameters have changed, you can return to the first screen (steps #3-4 above), change the communication parameters to 57,600 baud, Mark parity and 2 Stop bits, requery the modem and reconnect to it to check your settings. NOTE: IF USING THE NEWER SEQUENCERS THAT DO NOT HAVE A PARITY OPTION FOR SERIAL COMMUNICATION, SET THE PARITY TO NONE.&lt;br /&gt;
*&#039;&#039;&#039;NOTE:&#039;&#039;&#039; It&#039;s possible that you may encounter an error/warning message that a configuration item is not right. This is likely the Retries setting, which should be zero because you don&#039;t want retries. However, XCTU thinks the zero setting must be an error, so it warns you. Solution: Just reload the settings and check the retries value. If it&#039;s zero you&#039;re fine. If it&#039;s blank, type a zero into it and re-write the settings again.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;Setting an XBee Module&#039;s Address&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
:Connecting to all XBee modules simultaneously is easy: just set the PANIDs on each module to the same number. However, if you want to create a daisy chain network architecture where one module transmits to a specific next module, and so forth, you need to go a little further.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*If you have two modules on each Ren-W board (a real luxury because of the added expense!), you can simply set the PANIDs of the two modules that will communicate with one another to the same PANID. See the &amp;quot;Point to Point&amp;quot; broadcasting example on the [[Ren-W Configuration Concepts]] page.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*However, in Alternate PTP mode with only ONE XBee module installed on a Ren-W board as an E-Mode Repeater (XBee module in the TX position and jumper on JP5) XBee addressing is used instead. With addressing, you have multiple options:&lt;br /&gt;
:::::[[File:Xctu-3b.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
:::Notice the 16-bit source address option in the above window. You can insert a numerical address of your choosing here, such as 1001, 1002, 1003, etc. and leave the PANID the same for all modules. To create a daisy chain network, you would assign the &amp;quot;destination address low&amp;quot; of the first module to be the 16-bit address of the next module. You would continue this logic throughout your XBee network by assiging a specific 16-bit address to each module and then assigning the desired destination addresses.&lt;br /&gt;
:::Instead of assigning a 16-bit source address of your own, you may choose to use the predefined serial numbers instead. If you do, be sure to use both the serial number high and serial number low of the receiving module as the transmitting module&#039;s destination address high and destination address low. Using the serial numbers makes the network the most secure it can possibly be because no two XBee modules are manufactured with the same serial number high and low. &lt;br /&gt;
*&#039;&#039;&#039;TIP #1:&#039;&#039;&#039; Be sure to write each radio&#039;s 16-bit address and it&#039;s assigned destination address on a piece of tape and either tape it to the XBee itself or to your enclosure so you know which radio transmits to which.&lt;br /&gt;
*&#039;&#039;&#039;TIP #2:&#039;&#039;&#039; By defining two or more XBee modules with the same 16-bit address, you can control them simultaneously from only one radio. However, don&#039;t assign multiple XBees to the same destination address or the receiving XBee may receive different commands from two different sources; the result will likely be confusion.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;Renard Specific Quick Summary for use with a REN-W&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Here is a list of the parameters known to work when using the XBees in a REN-W to run a Renard Controller wirelessly:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Interface Data Rate: 57,600&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Flow Control: None&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Data Bits : 8&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Parity: Mark Parity&#039;&#039;&#039; (OR NONE IF USING A NEWER SEQUENCER THAN VIXEN 2.1)&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Stop Bits: 2&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;PAN ID: 3332&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;MAC Mode: option 1 – 802.15.4 No ACKS&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Packetization Timeout: 0&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Note:&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The &#039;&#039;&#039;Interface Data Rate&#039;&#039;&#039; has a maximum value of 57,600.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;Manually Configuring an XBee Module with the Ren-W&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
:An XBee can be programmed manually directly from your computer&#039;s serial port (using an RS-485 converter) and a Ren-W board if you do not have an XBee programming board. However, this practice is somewhat difficult as there is no facility in the Ren-W for duplex communication with the XBee module, and you will be unable to &amp;quot;read&amp;quot; the XBee&#039;s settings to discover what they are. However, out of the box, an XBee module is factory pre-set at 9600 baud, 8 data bits, 1 stop bit and no parity.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:You will need a terminal program. The free XCTU software from www.digi.com includes a terminal program or you can use Windows Hyperterminal. XCTU is easier to use and is highly recommended as you have fewer configuration settings to contend with than with Hyperterminal. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:You may also want the XBee documentation that explains the AT command set the radio uses. This is also available from www.digi.com. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;&#039;The example below displays the method for setting the XBee module to the proper communication settings.&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::1. Plug the XBee module into the XBee TX (left) side of the Ren-W board.&lt;br /&gt;
::2. Plug the cat5 cable from your RS-485 connection into the J1 jack of the Ren-W board. This is on the XBee TX (left) side of the board as well.&lt;br /&gt;
::3. Make sure the Ren-W is powered up.&lt;br /&gt;
::4. Start the XCTU software.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:::[[File:Xbee_prog1.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::5. At the PC Settings screen, choose the correct com port for your computer and set the baud and other communication parameters to those of the XBee on the Ren-W board (see picture above).&lt;br /&gt;
::6. Check the API box to &amp;quot;Enable API.&amp;quot; This checkbox is on the far left side of the PC Settings tab about half-way down the screen. Leave the Use escape characters box unchecked (see picture above).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:::[[File:Xbee_prog2.JPG |300px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::7. Click the Test/Query button. If the communication parameters match the module, you should receive a connection message that displays the serial number of the XBee radio but not much else (see picture above).&lt;br /&gt;
::8. Select the Terminal tab.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:::[[File:Xbee_cfg_manual.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::9. Type &#039;&#039;&#039;+++&#039;&#039;&#039; by itself but DO NOT PRESS THE ENTER KEY. Wait about 2 or 3 seconds.&lt;br /&gt;
::10. Type &#039;&#039;&#039;ATMM=1&#039;&#039;&#039; and press ENTER, then wait about 2 seconds. This command sets the MAC mode to the No Acks setting.&lt;br /&gt;
::11. Type &#039;&#039;&#039;ATBD=6&#039;&#039;&#039; and press ENTER, then wait about 2 seconds. This command sets the BAUD rate to 57,600.&lt;br /&gt;
::12. Type &#039;&#039;&#039;ATNB=3&#039;&#039;&#039; and press ENTER, then wait about 2 seconds. This command sets the PARITY to MARK.&lt;br /&gt;
::13. Type &#039;&#039;&#039;ATRO=0&#039;&#039;&#039; and press ENTER, then wait about 2 seconds. This sets the packetization timeout to zero.&lt;br /&gt;
::14. Type &#039;&#039;&#039;ATWR&#039;&#039;&#039; and press ENTER, then wait about 5-10 seconds. This writes the changes to the XBee&#039;s internal memory.&lt;br /&gt;
::15. Remove power to the Ren-W board so when you restart it, it has a cold boot.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;How to change the XBee&#039;s PAN ID:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
::* Access the XBee as described in steps 1-8 above. Remember to change the baud rate to 57600 or the software will not connect to it.&lt;br /&gt;
::* Type &#039;&#039;&#039;+++&#039;&#039;&#039; by itself but DO NOT PRESS THE ENTER KEY. Wait about 4 or 5 seconds.&lt;br /&gt;
::* Type &#039;&#039;&#039;ATID=2255&#039;&#039;&#039; and press ENTER on your keyboard. Wait about 4 seconds. This sets the radio&#039;s PAN ID to 2255 (in this example). You may substitute 2255 with any 4-digit number of your choice.&lt;br /&gt;
::* Type &#039;&#039;&#039;ATWR&#039;&#039;&#039; and press ENTER on your keyboard. Wait about 10 seconds. This command &amp;quot;writes&amp;quot; the setting into the XBee&#039;s internal memory.&lt;br /&gt;
::* The XBee&#039;s PAN ID has now been changed to the number you selected. Remember that only XBees having the same PAN ID can communicate with one another. Power the Ren-W off so the XBee gets a cold restart.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;How to change the XBee&#039;s OWN address:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
::* Access the XBee as described in steps 1-8 above. Remember to change the baud rate to 57600 or the software will not connect to it.&lt;br /&gt;
::* Type &#039;&#039;&#039;+++&#039;&#039;&#039; by itself but DO NOT PRESS THE ENTER KEY. Wait about 4 or 5 seconds.&lt;br /&gt;
::* Type &#039;&#039;&#039;ATMY=1234&#039;&#039;&#039; and press ENTER on your keyboard. Wait about 4 seconds. This sets the radio&#039;s address to 1234. You may substitute 1234 with any 4-digit number of your choice.&lt;br /&gt;
::* Type &#039;&#039;&#039;ATWR&#039;&#039;&#039; and press ENTER on your keyboard. Wait about 10 seconds. This command &amp;quot;writes&amp;quot; the setting into the XBee&#039;s internal memory.&lt;br /&gt;
::* The XBee&#039;s own address has now been changed to the number you selected. Power the Ren-W off so the XBee gets a cold restart.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;How to change the XBee&#039;s DESTINATION address:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
::* Access the XBee as described in steps 1-8 above. Remember to change the baud rate to 57600 or the software will not connect to it.&lt;br /&gt;
::* Type &#039;&#039;&#039;+++&#039;&#039;&#039; by itself but DO NOT PRESS THE ENTER KEY. Wait about 4 or 5 seconds.&lt;br /&gt;
::* Type &#039;&#039;&#039;ATDL=3456&#039;&#039;&#039; and press ENTER on your keyboard. Wait about 4 seconds. This sets the radio&#039;s destination LOW address to 3456. You may substitute 3456 with the 4-digit address of the module this XBee should transmit to. Setting the destination address makes the XBee transmit ONLY to that address and only XBees with that address (3456 in this example) will receive the signal.&lt;br /&gt;
::* Type &#039;&#039;&#039;ATWR&#039;&#039;&#039; and press ENTER on your keyboard. Wait about 10 seconds. This command &amp;quot;writes&amp;quot; the setting into the XBee&#039;s internal memory.&lt;br /&gt;
::* The XBee&#039;s destination address has now been changed to the number you selected. Power the Ren-W off so the XBee gets a cold restart.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Making your own Ren-W Explorer Board/Cable ==&lt;br /&gt;
::It isn&#039;t difficult to make a Ren-W into an &amp;quot;explorer&amp;quot; board, and using a connection board such as the one below makes it easy, or you could make a custom cable instead. (Note that the Rev-6 board does not have this capability for it has only one RJ45 jack)&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
::::[[File:Renw_explorer.jpg | 300px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::The connections are as follows:&lt;br /&gt;
::1. You must make the RS485 patch to the board for this to work (see troubleshooting page for info)&lt;br /&gt;
::2. RS232 pin 5 (gnd) connects to Ren-W J1 pin 1.&lt;br /&gt;
::3. RS232 pin 3 (TX) connects to Ren-W J1 pin 4.&lt;br /&gt;
::4. RS232 pin 2 (RX) connects to Ren-W J2 pin 4.&lt;br /&gt;
::5. The XBee radio must be in the TX (left) side of the Ren-W and of course, the board must be powered-up.&lt;br /&gt;
::6. Ren-W&#039;s JP5 must be jumpered.&lt;br /&gt;
::7. Use the XCTU software as normal; be patient as the software is looking for handshaking signals and you&#039;ll probably encounter a delay. Alternately, you can use Windows HyperTerminal to make your connection and program it that way.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== How To Update XBee Firmware ==&lt;br /&gt;
:At the time of this writing, version 10E6 was the most current version of the XBee firmware. It is highly suggested that users update all their XBee modules with this version.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::1. Using the USB XBee Explorer board will be faster and more secure than any other board as it is designed for this.&lt;br /&gt;
::2. Open the XBee with the XCTU software and view the XBee&#039;s settings screen.&lt;br /&gt;
::3. Click the RESTORE button, then click WRITE. This will restore the radio to factory defaults, a requirement for changing the firmware.&lt;br /&gt;
::4. Change the XCTU software setting to reconnect to the radio, then redisplay the XBee&#039;s settings screen.&lt;br /&gt;
::5. Click the ALWAYS UPDATE FIRMWARE box.&lt;br /&gt;
::6. In the Version box (right side of the screen), choose version 10E6&lt;br /&gt;
::7. Here&#039;s were it can get a little strange... Click the WRITE button.&lt;br /&gt;
::::a) If the radio gives a &amp;quot;disconnect&amp;quot; kind of message on the bottom of the screen, do steps b-g below. If it does not, it will update the firmware directly, then go to step #8.&lt;br /&gt;
::::b) Leave the Explorer board plugged in but unplug the XBee from the Explorer board.&lt;br /&gt;
::::c) Click the WRITE button again, even though the radio is not plugged in. Wait a few moments, and a screen should appear that has a lot of words and options. Just do the next step quickly.&lt;br /&gt;
::::d) Plug the XBee radio back into the board. The screen should disappear, and you should get a note on the screen that the XBee is &amp;quot;initializing.&amp;quot; After that, it will go to programming. &#039;&#039;&#039;Alternate method:&#039;&#039;&#039; use a paper clip or other wire to short pins 5 and 10 on the top of the XBee module. This will cause the radio to &amp;quot;reset.&amp;quot; It can accomplish the same thing as unplugging and plugging in the board quickly. Just be very careful that you short only pins 5 and 10!&lt;br /&gt;
::::e) Another screen with text and options may appear. Unplug the radio again from the Explorer board, count to 1 and plug it back in.&lt;br /&gt;
::::f) It should then read the AT commands to display the XBee&#039;s settings page again.&lt;br /&gt;
::::g) Continue with the next step.&lt;br /&gt;
::8. Uncheck the ALWAYS UPDATE FIRMWARE box.&lt;br /&gt;
::9. Make appropriate changes to the XBee&#039;s settings to match your display. Version 10E6 of the firmware will display a new setting in the serial portion of the setting screen: a PARITY setting. If you use a wireless Ren64 in your display, you should read the troubleshooting page about the special settings necessary for the Ren64.&lt;br /&gt;
::10. Click WRITE to write the settings to the radio. You will get an error message as it tries to reread them because the XCTU software still has the old settings and can&#039;t connect to it.&lt;br /&gt;
::11. Change the XCTU settings to match the baud and/or parity settings, reconnect to the radio again and redisplay the settings you changed to verify they were successful.&lt;br /&gt;
::12. Now the XBee is ready.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== What Usually Goes Wrong When Two Radios Don&#039;t Communicate ==&lt;br /&gt;
:: The world of XBee radio addressing can become extremely complicated, and troubleshooting it can be a doggedly frustrating experience. START SLOW AND SIMPLE. Get TWO radios talking together -- change only the basic three settings and do nothing with individual radio addressing until you are comfortable understanding how to configure them. In almost every case, you will discover that a non-communication situation is caused by an addressing or baud rate problem. Secondarily, once the radios are in the Ren-W boards and connected to controllers, you may forget which is a transmitter, which is a receiver, which is a repeater, or you&#039;ll find you have a board set up to be a receiver but the XBee is in the TX side. Or you may have a radio set up to be a transmitter but it&#039;s plugged into the controller&#039;s RS-IN jack, which is for a receiver. GO SLOWLY, TAKE YOUR TIME.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Direct vs. Daisy Chain Settings ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:: In a normal mode where the transmitter connects directly to the remote Ren-Ws, it&#039;s suggested that 57,600 baud, 8 data bits, Mark parity and 2 stop bits be used. HOWEVER, this setting will likely not be successful in the scenario where one controller acts as a repeater and transmits on to the next controller, such as you&#039;d have in a daisy-chain configuration. For downstream controllers, be sure to set the radio at 57600 baud, 8 data bits, NO parity and 1 stop bit.&lt;br /&gt;
::* Direct transmitter to controller: 57600, 8, M, 2&lt;br /&gt;
::* Daisy chain, controller to controller: 57600, 8, N, 1&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::Explanation: When the computer communicates to the transmitting XBee radio, it supplies the Mark parity bit and two stop bits. However, once the data has been received and processed by the first PIC on the receiving controller, the parity and extra stop bit are stripped out and the flow of Renard data reverts to the normal, 8 data bits, No parity and 1 stop bit mode. In a daisy-chain mode, the data that is retransmitted by the Ren-W therefore no longer has the mark parity and extra stop bit. This means that the XBee radio in the downstream Ren-W must be set to NO parity. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::Symptom: if downstream controllers are set with the Mark parity bit, they may exhibit either no communication at all or intermittent communication, resulting in very poor light control.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Additional Ren-W Links&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Renard Wireless Converter]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W BOM and Construction]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Configuration Concepts]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W XBee Radio Configuration]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Questions/Answers]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Troubleshooting]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Antenna Info]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Controller Heater]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8102 Ren-W Topic on the DIYC Forums]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Ren-W]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:DIYC Index]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Dirknerkle</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=Ren-W_Questions/Answers&amp;diff=12875</id>
		<title>Ren-W Questions/Answers</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=Ren-W_Questions/Answers&amp;diff=12875"/>
		<updated>2018-09-07T20:55:04Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Dirknerkle: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;*&#039;&#039;&#039;Can a Ren-W be connected directly to the computer?&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
*Yes, but early versions of the Ren-W board priot to 20100622 may need the RS485 patch (see troubleshooting page) for it to work reliably unless the Ren-W board is version 20100622 or later; the later revision does not require the patch. The patch uses only the ground and -485 signals. However, the board in its current state works fine with passive RS232 - RS485 adapters such as the Sintech 9309, which is available for about $8 from [http://www.dealextreme.com/search.dx/search.sintech%209309 www.dealextreme.com]. I&#039;ve used this off my PC&#039;s RS-232 port and connected it directly to the Ren-W without any problems whatsoever. &#039;&#039;&#039;Bottom line:&#039;&#039;&#039; the best way to transmit directly from the computer is to use the XBee USB Explorer instead of a Ren-W. The Explorer doubles as the programmer board, but it&#039;s a fantastic transmitter, and appears to your computer just like a normal COM port, so configuring Vixen to use it is a snap. Then you can put all your Ren-Ws out in the field.&lt;br /&gt;
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*&#039;&#039;&#039;Can the Ren-W be used with a USB RS-232 to RS-485 converter?&#039;&#039;&#039; &lt;br /&gt;
*Yes. See above.&lt;br /&gt;
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*&#039;&#039;&#039;Will RS-232 work with the Ren-W?&#039;&#039;&#039; &lt;br /&gt;
*Yes, as long as the board has been modified as per the RS485 patch outlined on the Ren-W troubleshooting page of the Wiki (pre-20100622 boards only). In addition, you&#039;ll want to connect RS232 ground (pin 5) to the Ren-W&#039;s J1 pin 1 and RS232 pin 3 to the Ren-W&#039;s J1 pin 4. &lt;br /&gt;
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*&#039;&#039;&#039;Are the SMA and Rev-6 versions of the Ren-W interchangeable?&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
*Not directly. You&#039;ll find that using the Rev-6 board with an SS controller requires that JP2 on the SS controller be open and not shunted. (JP2 is the termination resistor on the SS board).&lt;br /&gt;
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*&#039;&#039;&#039;Do I have to use a special serial port setting with the Ren-W?&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
*Generally, yes. The best setting to use is 57600 baud, 8 data bits, 2 stop bits and Mark parity. This should be configured in both your Vixen plugin AND in the XBee radios themselves. The Renard firmware should also be set to 57600 baud so that the PICs are in sync, too. Note that 57600, 8 data bits, 1 stop bit and NO parity works generally works fine, although you may experience a few data packet dropouts when there are more than 57 channels connected to the same Ren-W board, such as with a Ren64. When daisy-chaining one controller to the next via Ren-Ws, the XBee radios in the daisy-chained Ren-W/controllers must be set to 57600, 8 bits, NO parity and 1 stop bit.&lt;br /&gt;
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*&#039;&#039;&#039;Can the Ren-W be powered independently instead of powered by the SS board?&#039;&#039;&#039; &lt;br /&gt;
*Yes. Connect +5vdv to either pin of the JP3 header and ground (-) to either pin of the JP4 header. Do not use a power supply that provides more than +5vdc and never connect JP3 to JP4! (&#039;&#039;&#039;Note:&#039;&#039;&#039; the Ren-W&#039;s voltage regulator should not become hot during normal use. Ren-W has been tested with a 12vdc supply and the regulator gets quite warm when powered this way. If you must power the Ren-W with 12vdc, consider attaching a heat sink to the back of the U1 voltage regulator.)&lt;br /&gt;
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*&#039;&#039;&#039;What kind of current draw does a Ren-W have?&#039;&#039;&#039; &lt;br /&gt;
*More current is used when an XBee module is transmitting than receiving. The higher-powered XBee Pro module requires upwards of 290ma while the standard XBee module requires only about 50ma. The 3.3vdc voltage regulator on the Ren-W is rated up to 500ma. Because the Ren-W draws its +5v power directly from the Renard SS controller, Ren-W users who experience inconsistent or erratic transmission performance may consider replacing the SS controller’s LF50CV ½-amp voltage regulator (Mouser # 511-LF50CV) with an LF50CP instead ( # 511-LF50CP), which has a full 1A capacity.&lt;br /&gt;
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*&#039;&#039;&#039;Does cat5 cable length matter when connecting a Ren-W to an SS controller? &#039;&#039;&#039; &lt;br /&gt;
*Both RS-232 and RS-485 are pretty robust and with RS-485, long cable lengths (up to 4000’) are certainly possible. We’ve tested RS-232 with 100’ cable without a problem but as the basic concept of Ren-W was to eliminate cables, keep them as short as possible anyway.&lt;br /&gt;
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*&#039;&#039;&#039;Can I mix Global Broadcast mode with PTP mode?&#039;&#039;&#039; &lt;br /&gt;
*Theoretically yes, if you’re very clever with using combinations of the XBee’s PAN ID and addressing configurations and don’t mind experimenting to see what works best for you. However, start_address firmware in a global broadcast most is most likely going to give you every bit of the flexibility you need, making PTP unnecessary.&lt;br /&gt;
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*&#039;&#039;&#039;Can I mix SS8, SS16 and SS24 boards in the same Ren-W network?&#039;&#039;&#039; &lt;br /&gt;
*Yes. In PTP mode, they will function just as if they were connected via cat5 cable (use 57600, 8,N,1 settings). In global broadcast mode where each Ren-W receives the same commands instead of only those passed on from the previous controller, use start_address firmware to tell the controllers which channels they should react to. Re-read the “Renard basics and how they relate to Ren-W” section on the first page of the Ren-W Wiki.&lt;br /&gt;
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*&#039;&#039;&#039;Can I mix hardwired SS controllers with Ren-W wireless controllers?&#039;&#039;&#039; &lt;br /&gt;
*Yes, Ren-W was designed to be an easy add-on to an existing wired system in either or both global broadcast, PTP or alternate PTP broadcast modes.&lt;br /&gt;
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*&#039;&#039;&#039;Can I use a Ren-W with my Ren-C/595 or Ren-C/Grinch controllers?&#039;&#039;&#039; &lt;br /&gt;
*Yes. It works very well when the RS-OUT of the Ren-C is plugged into the Ren-W&#039;s input for transmitting the signal out to the network. However, when the Ren-W is to &#039;&#039;control&#039;&#039; the Ren-C/595 or Grinch, it is necessary to also use a snap choke core balun on the cat5 cable going into the Ren-C&#039;s RS-IN jack (Radio Shack part# 273-0069). The balun eliminates EMI/RFI interference generated in the cat5 cable that&#039;s caused by the XBee radio module. Without the balun, the Ren-C will likely encounter framing errors and will not communicate with the Ren-W. Power for the Ren-W can be tapped from the 595/Grinch +5v header pins, from the Ren-C’s vcc header pin immediately to the left of the 2N3904 transistor (Q1) or from the Ren-C’s vcc header pin of the JP6 PGM row (2nd pin from the top). Note that the ZC signal must be supplied to the Ren-C directly and cannot be passed along wirelessly by the Ren-W.  The Ren-C’s RS-485 RS-OUT serial signal is approximately 4.52vdc, which is still within the acceptable range that Ren-W can accommodate.&lt;br /&gt;
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*&#039;&#039;&#039;Do I always need two XBee modules on a repeater board?&#039;&#039;&#039; &lt;br /&gt;
*Yes and no – it depends on whether the Ren-W is serving as a normal repeater or whether you want it to be an E-mode repeater. The normal repeater board uses two XBee modules, one for receiving and the other for transmitting. The E-mode repeater uses only one XBee module which performs both receiving and transmitting functions. Other than the obvious price difference between the two types of repeater boards because of the added XBee module, it’s important to understand that there may also be a performance difference because a single XBee module can’t perform receiving and transmitting simultaneously. It’s important to note that the design of the Ren-W allows switching from E-mode to normal mode by simply disconnecting the jumper shunt on JP5 and of course, adding and configuring the second XBee module. So one can always start with the E-mode repeater and if a performance lag is encountered, you can always switch to normal mode without having to take out the soldering iron.&lt;br /&gt;
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*&#039;&#039;&#039;Can I use “global broadcast” mode yet have each Renard controller respond to its own range of Vixen channels?&#039;&#039;&#039; &lt;br /&gt;
*Yes, and this is the best and most flexible way to use Ren-W in your display. You will need to use the Renard Start Address firmware to set the start address for your controller&#039;s first PIC. Be sure to read the Renard Start Address Configuration Guide for using this special firmware: [http://www.christmasinshirley.com/wiki/index.php?title=Renard_Start_Address_Configuration_Guide Renard Start Address Configuration guide].  Another way to &amp;quot;skin the cat&amp;quot; would be to think a little creatively. For example, if you used three 24-channel controllers and set up each of their Ren-W receivers so that all three received the same &amp;quot;broadcast&amp;quot; signal, you could connect lights to only channels 1-8 of the first controller (leaving channels 9-24 unused), channels 9-16 of the second controller and 17-24 of the third controller to simulate &amp;quot;broadcast addressing.&amp;quot; &lt;br /&gt;
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*&#039;&#039;&#039;Can the Ren-W work with other Renard controllers such as the Renard 16, Renard 24 or Renard 64?&#039;&#039;&#039; &lt;br /&gt;
*Yes, but some versions of Renard controllers may have different design versions and the RJ45 serial pin outs as well as the serial signal may vary from the Renard SS board’s design. The Ren-W was originally designed to be a plug-in option for WayneJ&#039;s Renard SS controllers but it has been successfully tested with wjohn&#039;s Ren64 (v. XC5), budude&#039;s Ren48LSD, fkostyun&#039;s Ren24 version 3.0 and 3.3 &#039;&#039;&#039;(thanks to DIYC members penfold and kychristmas!)&#039;&#039;&#039; and the Ren24LV, and the Simple Renard 24 and Simple Renard 32. If the RJ45 pinouts are the same as the Renard standard, it should work. However, if the pinouts are different from the Renard standard, you just have to make your own custom cat5 connection cables to connect the Ren-W to the Renard board instead of using the standard, straight-through cat5 cabling scheme. It is also possible that the use of the choke core balun (as for the Ren-C adapter) may be required to help reduce line noise.&lt;br /&gt;
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*&#039;&#039;&#039;Will the Ren-W work with DMX?&#039;&#039;&#039; &lt;br /&gt;
*No, because DMX requires a higher throughput than the XBee’s maximum. An XBee is limited to 115,200 and was designed to accommodate streaming data only up to 80kbps. DMX’s communication need is normally higher than that, in the neighborhood of 250kbps. It has been tested with RPM&#039;s USB DMX dongle and was proven not to work, but you could certainly give it a go – the Ren-W simply transfers a serial signal from one place to another. You’ll obviously have to consider the connector pin outs used for DMX and you may end up creating your own connection cables to/from the Ren-W to/from your DMX setup, but a completed pair of Ren-W boards are relatively inexpensive to make so the cost of experimentation isn’t very great.&lt;br /&gt;
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*&#039;&#039;&#039;Can a Ren-W be used with other light controllers or other devices to create a wireless connection?&#039;&#039;&#039; &lt;br /&gt;
*Maybe. Remember, Ren-W is essentially a wireless serial connection which means that theoretically, it could connect most any serial devices because it’s essentially transparent to the two devices involved – it merely inputs a serial data packet on the transmitting Ren-W’s J1 connector, translates it into a TTL data stream and transmits it to another Ren-W where the data stream is recombined into the serial data packet and output via the receiving Ren-W’s J2 connector. Because it’s a serial device, remember that the serial communication parameters (8 data bits, no parity, no stop in the case of the Renard controllers) can be changed to match a different packet structure such as 7 data bits, even parity, an 1 stop and that such configuration is done inside the XBee modules using the XCTU software. Obviously the transmitting and receiving units must be configured with the same communication parameters so that the serial data at the receiving Ren-W’s output port J2 is in the same format as it was originally when it went into the transmitting Ren-W. Another consideration is that an XBee’s maximum transmission speed is 115,200 bps but is really rated at only 80kbps in continuous, streaming data situations which may or may not be adequate in every case.&lt;br /&gt;
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*&#039;&#039;&#039;Will the super-powered 900mhz XBee radio modules work for even greater range?&#039;&#039;&#039; &lt;br /&gt;
*Maybe. Some radios in the XBee line supposedly provide a line-of-sight range of up to 12 miles, but they may not have the same speed throughput capability that you may need and their electrical power requirements may be greater than are designed into the Ren-W board. The concept still is sound, but they may not be a drop-in replacement for the current Ren-W design. However, Ren-W has been tested to easily provide 1000&#039; range when external Wi-Fi antennas are used (using the XBee Pro with SMA connector) so it&#039;s a bit hard to understand why you&#039;d need more distance than that. However, the 900mhz radio does not have the same baud rate options as the normal radio, so using it may provide mixed results.&lt;br /&gt;
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*&#039;&#039;&#039;Is a Programmer Board a necessity or can I get by without one?&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
*It&#039;s not terribly difficult to program an XBee using the Ren-W board and information about doing that is included in the configuration section of the Ren-W wiki pages. However, it is a little tricky to accomplish consistently and the programmer board is well worth the purchase and provides for duplex communication with the XBee radio, as well as a way to test modules, test communication, test settings, etc. before putting the units in the field. It can also be used as the originator transmitting module and Vixen can easily be configured to use it. So yes, you can &#039;get by&#039; but like having a Pic programmer if you use Renard, having an XBee programmer can be just as beneficial. An inexpensive Ren-W explorer solution is to rig-up a special cable that connects RS232 pin 3 to pin 4 of the Ren-W&#039;s J1 jack and RS232 pin 2 to pin 4 of the Ren-W&#039;s J2 jack, with RS232 pin 5 (ground) connected to the Ren-W&#039;s pin 1. Then put the XBee radio in the TX (left) side of the board and place a jumper on JP5. This creates a duplex communication setup with your computer and you can use the XCTU software as you would normally, or even Windows HyperTerminal to program the XBee radio&#039;s settings. It&#039;s not nearly as efficient or quick as using the XBee USB Explorer board, but it can work if you&#039;re patient and want to save the $25 cost of the USB Explorer. A handy solution is to construct your own Ren-W Explorer board such as this one which makes all the proper connections as outlined above. It can also be used to easily connect your RS232 cable to a Ren-W transmitter at the PC:&lt;br /&gt;
::::[[File:Renw_explorer.jpg | 300px]]&lt;br /&gt;
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*&#039;&#039;&#039;Will a version of Ren-W be available for parallel port controllers?&#039;&#039;&#039; &lt;br /&gt;
*No, there are no plans to create a parallel port version. Parallel port-based technology has rapidly lost popularity over the past few years and many computer manufacturers no longer even include parallel ports on their products. However, you could certainly try using a parallel-to-serial converter at the computer end, feed the resulting serial signal into J1 of the transmitting Ren-W and at the receiving Ren-W’s J2 jack, use a serial-to-parallel converter to convert it back into the parallel signal you need. Whether this will actually work is unknown; in theory it sounds like it might work but in actual practice, it may not.&lt;br /&gt;
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*&#039;&#039;&#039;What kind of wireless range can I expect to get?&#039;&#039;&#039; &lt;br /&gt;
*Even though the XBee radio’s specifications indicate much longer distances, in actual practice, a regular XBee module should provide roughly 50-75 foot range while the XBee Pro module can generally work up to 300 yards or greater, depending on the kind of antennas used on the units and where the antennas are located (higher is better). The Pro version of the radio has both a more powerful transmitting capability and a much greater receiving sensitivity. Even greater distances are possible, but signal reliability is a major issue when the radios are operating at 57,600 baud, the basic speed that is recommended for Renard SS controllers. Note that you should also expect to experience occasional light flickering or even miscued lights that are caused by data dropouts, a common occurrence with high speed wireless serial connections that use streaming data without a hardware or software flow control mechanism. If the SMA version of the XBee Pro module is used with an efficient external antenna, one might experience incredible range. In cursory testing, a 14&amp;quot; external SMA antenna with 6db gain easily provided about 1000&#039; of working distance, but results may vary depending on your situation. However, extreme distances such as miles have not been tested as they seem outside the scope of intended use.&lt;br /&gt;
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*&#039;&#039;&#039;Will this interact with my home wi-fi network?&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
*Possibly. Wi-fi generally operates in the 2.4ghz radio spectrum, same as the XBee radio. It has been proven that when a wi-fi device is in close proximity to an XBee radio, the XBee&#039;s reception can easily be hampered by the power of the wi-fi device&#039;s transmitter. The symptom is that the Ren-W starts acting randomly or may seem to lock up or be unresponsive. Usually removing the wi-fi device from the immediate area should solve the problem. Xbee radios can use many different Wi-Ri channels, and you may have to experiment with different settings if your experience interference. The Troubleshooting section of the Ren-W Wiki includes a notation on this very issue.&lt;br /&gt;
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*&#039;&#039;&#039;I’m concerned about dropped data. How might it affect my light show?&#039;&#039;&#039; &lt;br /&gt;
*In testing, the range of dropped bytes was in the neighborhood of .014 to .044%, equivalent to between 14 - 44 bytes out of every hundred thousand bytes transmitted. A typical song of 2½ minutes’ duration with moderate lighting commands for an SS24 controller might result in about 60K of Renard control data using 50ms timing in Vixen sequencing software. Applying the percentage formula, that could result in 8 to 26 dropped bytes; at one byte per cell, that’s equivalent to 8 to 26 cells over the course of the entire song. It could appear as a light that’s one cell (50ms) late in turning on or off, or if the byte represents a cell that’s in the middle of a long ramp up or down (4 or 5 seconds), one or two very slight flickers. In most cases, viewers probably wouldn’t even notice them.&lt;br /&gt;
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*&#039;&#039;&#039;Can you make it so no bytes are dropped at all?&#039;&#039;&#039; &lt;br /&gt;
*No, as this would require the use of flow control which, in a fast-paced streaming protocol that is often synchronized to a music track, tends to slow things down and data may eventually become out of sync with the music. The current Renard protocol assumes a direct wired connection, but it includes a space bit which is intended to help solve possible data flow issues and timing. There is no functionality built into the Renard’s PIC code for either software or hardware flow. Something you can try is to change Vixen’s Renard plug-in setting to use 2 stop bits instead of the normal one stop bit and see if that makes a difference for you. Of course, the stronger the radio signal is, the more likely fewer dropped bytes. Consider upgrading to the XBee Pro module if using the standard one, or possibly an SMA version and an external antenna. Wireless communication is never as secure as wired communication.&lt;br /&gt;
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*&#039;&#039;&#039;Can I mount the Ren-W inside one of my waterproof broadband-type controller boxes?&#039;&#039;&#039; &lt;br /&gt;
*Yes, but keep the XBee’s antenna away from any transformers, A/C power and any triacs for best performance. Also, don&#039;t put it inside a metal case -- that won&#039;t work at all. Also understand that the more impediments you place between the transmitting and receiving antennas the less workable distance you’ll get. Lastly, if you decide to mount the Ren-W on the inside top cover of your broadband case, consider using the side-entry RJ-45 jacks and a little longer cat5 cable instead of the top-entry version and a shorter cable. This will reduce stress on the cat5 connectors on both the Ren-W and the controller. There are antenna extension cables available but using them is generally not very successful as the cable soaks up all the transmitting energy. For Xbee to be successful, the distance between the antenna and the radio should be very short.&lt;br /&gt;
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*&#039;&#039;&#039;I&#039;m having trouble with channels 57-64 on my Ren64 with the Ren-W. What&#039;s going on?&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
*There is a timing incompatibility between the Ren-W&#039;s XBee module and the Ren64 when both are running at 57,600 baud, 8 data bits, 1 stop bit and no parity. Try using MARK parity and 2 stop bits instead. &#039;&#039;&#039;Update: a suggested combination firmware/hardware solution to this problem is available on the [[Ren-W Troubleshooting]] page.&#039;&#039;&#039;  Additional viable solutions include dropping down to 38,400 baud which completely eliminates the problem. Alternately, you can certainly use the Ren64 as-is without plugging anything into channels 57-64. However, the best (and easy) solutions are found on the troubleshooting page and the change to MARK parity and 2 stop bits is the simplest. Of course, you must set both the Vixen plug-in and the XBee radio to communicate at the same settings.&lt;br /&gt;
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*&#039;&#039;&#039;Can I modify the design on my own and improve it?&#039;&#039;&#039; &lt;br /&gt;
*Absolutely -- that’s in the truest spirit of DIYC! Remember also that you must then provide your design to other DIYC members without charge so that they may benefit from it, too. As a practical design suggestion, you’ll notice that the solder pads for XBee headers H1-H4 are elongated. The larger pads provide for a better home-etched board because otherwise, the tiny 2mm solder pads may be too small for enough solder to hold the headers to the board. &lt;br /&gt;
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*&#039;&#039;&#039;Where can I get more information about XBee radios?&#039;&#039;&#039; &lt;br /&gt;
*Contact www.digi.com, makers of the XBee line. Their technical support staff is responsive, knowledgeable and courteous. There are also links to user forums on the digi web site and the discussions there are quite timely and helpful.&lt;br /&gt;
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&#039;&#039;&#039;Additional Ren-W Links&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Renard Wireless Converter]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W BOM and Construction]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Configuration Concepts]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W XBee Radio Configuration]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Questions/Answers]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Troubleshooting]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Antenna Info]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Controller Heater]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8102 Ren-W Topic on the DIYC Forums]&lt;br /&gt;
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[[Category:Ren-W]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:DIYC Index]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Dirknerkle</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=Ren-W_Configuration_Concepts&amp;diff=12874</id>
		<title>Ren-W Configuration Concepts</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=Ren-W_Configuration_Concepts&amp;diff=12874"/>
		<updated>2018-09-07T20:46:12Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Dirknerkle: /* Point-to-point (PTP) broadcast */&lt;/p&gt;
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&lt;div&gt;== &#039;&#039;&#039;Ren-W Theory of Operation&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
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:1.	A packet of RS-485 serial data arrives at the Ren-W’s J1 RJ45 jack. The source of the RS-485 serial data is unimportant; it may be directly from the computer or from another Renard SS controller. The J1 jack conforms to the Renard SS’ J1 where -485 data is pin 4 and pins 1and 2 are ground (Ren-W does not use pin 5 of J1). &lt;br /&gt;
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:2.	J1’s pin 4 connects to the XBee’s DIN (pin3) via a simple zener diode circuit to further protect the XBee’s maximum input voltage of 3.3vdc.&lt;br /&gt;
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:3.	The XBee module transmits the data stream wirelessly to one or more designated receivers.&lt;br /&gt;
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:4.	The receiving XBee processes its received data and ports the stream to its DOUT (pin 2), which in turn is connected to the MAX232’s T1IN (pin 11).&lt;br /&gt;
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:5.	The MAX232 translates the XBee’s stream into an RS-232 serial signal and ports it to its T1OUT (pin 14) which is connected to pin 4 of the Ren-W’s J2 jack (pins 1-2 are ground).&lt;br /&gt;
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:6.	The Ren-W’s J2 conforms to the Renard SS’ J2 input which receives RS-232 serial data on pin 4.&lt;br /&gt;
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:7.	The Renard controller processes the command as it normally would, but if the command is for a channel that it does not have, it passes the unused control command on to the next Renard controller via RS-485 pin 5 of its J1 (data out) jack.&lt;br /&gt;
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:8.	The Renard controllers’ J1 jack is connected to the Ren-W J1 jack via standard cat5 cable in the same fashion as one Renard controller daisy chaining to another.&lt;br /&gt;
:9.	The unused serial data received on pin 4 of this Ren-W’s J1 on this Renard controller restarts the sequence on this Ren-W at step #1, which XBee module is configured to transmit to the next Ren-W in the chain and the process repeats itself until there are no more Ren-Ws to receive data.&lt;br /&gt;
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:Note: Throughout this document you may notice the similarity of part naming conventions of the Ren-W to the Renard SS controller. This is by design. It’s easier to remember that J1 plugs into J1, J2 into J2, and as you’ll later discover in the section titled “Powering the Ren-W board”, power connector JP3 plugs into JP3. (If using a Ren-C/595 or Ren-C/Grinch system, JP3 connects to one of the Ren-C’s vcc pins.)&lt;br /&gt;
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== &#039;&#039;&#039;PAN ID concepts&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;&#039;Basic Concept:&#039;&#039;&#039; XBee radios have a configuration option called the &amp;quot;PanID.&amp;quot; On an XBee network, this works similarly to the SSID of a wi-fi network. Only units that have the same PanID can communicate with one another. However, each radio has its own address ID as well. By changing either a radio&#039;s individual address or the PanID, you control which units receive what signal. By creative use of radio addressing, you can create a one-to-many or one-to-one communication scheme. Note however, that instead of using individual addressing of each radio, a far better and more convenient method is to simply use one transmitting XBee to globally send the data out to all receivers simultaneously and then use start address firmware in the respective controllers to capture the channels the controller is supposed to use.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;Global broadcast&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:[[File:Ren-w-global.JPG |375px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::Configure all XBee modules with the same PAN ID (or just keep the default 3332). When the first one (e.g. the &amp;quot;master&amp;quot;) transmits the Vixen control signals, all the other XBee modules will receive them simultaneously, and all the Renard SS controllers will respond identically. Example: for a 24-channel system, if SS8 controllers are mixed with SS16s and SS24s, the SS8s will respond to Vixen channels 1-8, the SS16s will respond to Vixen channels 1-16 and the SS24s will respond to Vixen channels 1-24. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::In a global broadcast mode, only one Ren-W board is used as the master transmitter and all the other Ren-W boards are receivers only, so each Ren-W board would require only one XBee module. The design of a global broadcast network looks like the example above.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::A special version of Renard firmware is available that allows using the global broadcast mode while still retaining individual channel selectability with each controller. The feature is called the &#039;&#039;&#039;Renard Start Address&#039;&#039;&#039; and the configuration guide can be found here: [http://www.christmasinshirley.com/wiki/index.php?title=Renard_Start_Address_Configuration_Guide Renard Start Address Configuration Guide].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;Point-to-point (PTP) broadcast&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
Note: Because Start_Address firmware can be used in a Renard Controller, Global Broadcast mode is vastly preferred to PTP mode, and PTP is generally not used. It is explained here, but doing so makes wireless connections quite a bit more complicated, not to mention more expensive since nearly twice as many Xbee radios are required to make it work.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:[[File:Ren-w-point2point.JPG |375px]]&lt;br /&gt;
::PTP mode enables the &amp;quot;daisy-chain&amp;quot; function that allows multiple Renard SS controllers to have their own ranges of channels which is more in keeping with the way most people use Renard controllers. Two PTP options are available: the standard and alternate methods. To accomplish this, think of the wireless system as a replacement for the cat5 wires: the RJ45 plugs are the individual XBee modules and the cat5 wire is replaced by the wireless radio signal. The first SS controller gets the first group of Vixen channels, the next controller in the chain gets the next group, etc. just as if the controllers had been daisy chained using cat5 cables. To configure the Ren-W network to simulate the cat5 wiring scheme, the first Ren-W board needs to be a transmitter only. It&#039;s PAN ID must be set to the same number as the next Ren-W&#039;s receiver module. (The second Ren-W would have two XBee modules -- one to receive and the other to retransmit the Vixen commands to the next Ren-W board) The second Ren-W board&#039;s XBee transmitter would have a different PAN ID than its receiver, and the third Ren-W board&#039;s receiver would have the same PAN ID as the second Ren-W&#039;s transmitter. This scheme continues until the last Ren-W which would be only a receiver and have only one XBee module.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::In the above standard PTP example, imagine that Ren-W1 is the main transmitter connected to the computer and all the other units are 24-channel Renard SS24, for a total of 96 channels.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::* Ren-W1 (main transmitter) has PAN ID (3332), which matches the W2’s receiver so the two can communicate with one another. Therefore, W2 takes Vixen channels 1-24 and passes 25-96 on to the next Ren-W in the chain.&lt;br /&gt;
::* The W2’s transmitter (PAN ID 4332) communicates with the W3’s receiver. Being the second controller in the chain, the W3 takes Vixen channels 25-48 and passes 49-96 on to the next Ren-W in the chain.&lt;br /&gt;
::* The W3’s transmitter (PAN ID 5332) communicates with the W4’s receiver. Being the third controller in the chain, the W4 takes Vixen channels 49-72 and passes 73-96 on to the next Ren-W in the chain.&lt;br /&gt;
::* The W4’s transmitter (PAN ID 6332) communicates with the W5’s receiver. Being the fourth controller in the chain, the W5 takes Vixen channels 73-96.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:::&#039;&#039;&#039;Summary: the standard PTP method uses matching pairs of PAN IDs to determine which modules connect to one another. Repeater Ren-Ws must each have &#039;&#039;&#039;two&#039;&#039;&#039; XBee modules using the PANID example above.&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;Alternate PTP Configuration&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::While the other three XBee configuration changes remain the same, instead of changing the PAN ID, this configuration option uses the XBee’s internal serial numbers to configure the point-to-point routing.  The manufacturer assigns each XBee module a unique serial number which is expressed as two values: serial number high and serial number low. The alternate PTP configuration assigns the transmitting module’s “Destination Address High” and “Destination Address Low” to the serial number high and serial number low of the intended receiving module. The PAN IDs of all modules on the network must remain identical. In actual practice one can simply set the receiving radio&#039;s &amp;quot;My Address&amp;quot; setting and then set the &amp;quot;destination low&amp;quot; address to the &amp;quot;My Address&amp;quot; setting of the radio it&#039;s supposed to transmit to.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::This method is a bit more cumbersome than the normal PTP method but it results in a more private, secure network design. In a way, the alternate PTP method is similar to a dedicated TCP/IP addressing scheme for a computer network.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::&#039;&#039;&#039;Summary: the alternate PTP method uses XBee serial numbers or &amp;quot;My Address and destination low&amp;quot; to determine which pairs of modules connect to one another while keeping the PAN ID identical across all XBee modules. In addition, only one XBee module is needed per Ren-W board if the board is set as an E-mode repeater.&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;E-mode repeater: &#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
::To use the Ren-W as an E-mode repeater, connect a jumper shunt across JP5 and use only one XBee module in the TX (left) position. You must also also use the alternate PTP configuration method throughout your Ren-W network.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Additional Ren-W Links&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Renard Wireless Converter]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W BOM and Construction]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Configuration Concepts]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W XBee Radio Configuration]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Questions/Answers]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Troubleshooting]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Antenna Info]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Controller Heater]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8102 Ren-W Topic on the DIYC Forums]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Ren-W]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:DIYC Index]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Dirknerkle</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=Ren-W_Configuration_Concepts&amp;diff=12873</id>
		<title>Ren-W Configuration Concepts</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=Ren-W_Configuration_Concepts&amp;diff=12873"/>
		<updated>2018-09-07T20:45:10Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Dirknerkle: /* PAN ID concepts */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;== &#039;&#039;&#039;Ren-W Theory of Operation&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
:1.	A packet of RS-485 serial data arrives at the Ren-W’s J1 RJ45 jack. The source of the RS-485 serial data is unimportant; it may be directly from the computer or from another Renard SS controller. The J1 jack conforms to the Renard SS’ J1 where -485 data is pin 4 and pins 1and 2 are ground (Ren-W does not use pin 5 of J1). &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:2.	J1’s pin 4 connects to the XBee’s DIN (pin3) via a simple zener diode circuit to further protect the XBee’s maximum input voltage of 3.3vdc.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:3.	The XBee module transmits the data stream wirelessly to one or more designated receivers.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:4.	The receiving XBee processes its received data and ports the stream to its DOUT (pin 2), which in turn is connected to the MAX232’s T1IN (pin 11).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:5.	The MAX232 translates the XBee’s stream into an RS-232 serial signal and ports it to its T1OUT (pin 14) which is connected to pin 4 of the Ren-W’s J2 jack (pins 1-2 are ground).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:6.	The Ren-W’s J2 conforms to the Renard SS’ J2 input which receives RS-232 serial data on pin 4.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:7.	The Renard controller processes the command as it normally would, but if the command is for a channel that it does not have, it passes the unused control command on to the next Renard controller via RS-485 pin 5 of its J1 (data out) jack.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:8.	The Renard controllers’ J1 jack is connected to the Ren-W J1 jack via standard cat5 cable in the same fashion as one Renard controller daisy chaining to another.&lt;br /&gt;
:9.	The unused serial data received on pin 4 of this Ren-W’s J1 on this Renard controller restarts the sequence on this Ren-W at step #1, which XBee module is configured to transmit to the next Ren-W in the chain and the process repeats itself until there are no more Ren-Ws to receive data.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:Note: Throughout this document you may notice the similarity of part naming conventions of the Ren-W to the Renard SS controller. This is by design. It’s easier to remember that J1 plugs into J1, J2 into J2, and as you’ll later discover in the section titled “Powering the Ren-W board”, power connector JP3 plugs into JP3. (If using a Ren-C/595 or Ren-C/Grinch system, JP3 connects to one of the Ren-C’s vcc pins.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;PAN ID concepts&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;&#039;Basic Concept:&#039;&#039;&#039; XBee radios have a configuration option called the &amp;quot;PanID.&amp;quot; On an XBee network, this works similarly to the SSID of a wi-fi network. Only units that have the same PanID can communicate with one another. However, each radio has its own address ID as well. By changing either a radio&#039;s individual address or the PanID, you control which units receive what signal. By creative use of radio addressing, you can create a one-to-many or one-to-one communication scheme. Note however, that instead of using individual addressing of each radio, a far better and more convenient method is to simply use one transmitting XBee to globally send the data out to all receivers simultaneously and then use start address firmware in the respective controllers to capture the channels the controller is supposed to use.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;Global broadcast&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:[[File:Ren-w-global.JPG |375px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::Configure all XBee modules with the same PAN ID (or just keep the default 3332). When the first one (e.g. the &amp;quot;master&amp;quot;) transmits the Vixen control signals, all the other XBee modules will receive them simultaneously, and all the Renard SS controllers will respond identically. Example: for a 24-channel system, if SS8 controllers are mixed with SS16s and SS24s, the SS8s will respond to Vixen channels 1-8, the SS16s will respond to Vixen channels 1-16 and the SS24s will respond to Vixen channels 1-24. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::In a global broadcast mode, only one Ren-W board is used as the master transmitter and all the other Ren-W boards are receivers only, so each Ren-W board would require only one XBee module. The design of a global broadcast network looks like the example above.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::A special version of Renard firmware is available that allows using the global broadcast mode while still retaining individual channel selectability with each controller. The feature is called the &#039;&#039;&#039;Renard Start Address&#039;&#039;&#039; and the configuration guide can be found here: [http://www.christmasinshirley.com/wiki/index.php?title=Renard_Start_Address_Configuration_Guide Renard Start Address Configuration Guide].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;Point-to-point (PTP) broadcast&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
Note: Because Start_Address firmware can be used in a Renard Controller, Global Broadcast mode is vastly preferred to PTP mode, and PTP is generally not used. It is explained here, but doing so makes wireless connections quite a bit more complicated.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:[[File:Ren-w-point2point.JPG |375px]]&lt;br /&gt;
::PTP mode enables the &amp;quot;daisy-chain&amp;quot; function that allows multiple Renard SS controllers to have their own ranges of channels which is more in keeping with the way most people use Renard controllers. Two PTP options are available: the standard and alternate methods. To accomplish this, think of the wireless system as a replacement for the cat5 wires: the RJ45 plugs are the individual XBee modules and the cat5 wire is replaced by the wireless radio signal. The first SS controller gets the first group of Vixen channels, the next controller in the chain gets the next group, etc. just as if the controllers had been daisy chained using cat5 cables. To configure the Ren-W network to simulate the cat5 wiring scheme, the first Ren-W board needs to be a transmitter only. It&#039;s PAN ID must be set to the same number as the next Ren-W&#039;s receiver module. (The second Ren-W would have two XBee modules -- one to receive and the other to retransmit the Vixen commands to the next Ren-W board) The second Ren-W board&#039;s XBee transmitter would have a different PAN ID than its receiver, and the third Ren-W board&#039;s receiver would have the same PAN ID as the second Ren-W&#039;s transmitter. This scheme continues until the last Ren-W which would be only a receiver and have only one XBee module.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::In the above standard PTP example, imagine that Ren-W1 is the main transmitter connected to the computer and all the other units are 24-channel Renard SS24, for a total of 96 channels.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::* Ren-W1 (main transmitter) has PAN ID (3332), which matches the W2’s receiver so the two can communicate with one another. Therefore, W2 takes Vixen channels 1-24 and passes 25-96 on to the next Ren-W in the chain.&lt;br /&gt;
::* The W2’s transmitter (PAN ID 4332) communicates with the W3’s receiver. Being the second controller in the chain, the W3 takes Vixen channels 25-48 and passes 49-96 on to the next Ren-W in the chain.&lt;br /&gt;
::* The W3’s transmitter (PAN ID 5332) communicates with the W4’s receiver. Being the third controller in the chain, the W4 takes Vixen channels 49-72 and passes 73-96 on to the next Ren-W in the chain.&lt;br /&gt;
::* The W4’s transmitter (PAN ID 6332) communicates with the W5’s receiver. Being the fourth controller in the chain, the W5 takes Vixen channels 73-96.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:::&#039;&#039;&#039;Summary: the standard PTP method uses matching pairs of PAN IDs to determine which modules connect to one another. Repeater Ren-Ws must each have &#039;&#039;&#039;two&#039;&#039;&#039; XBee modules using the PANID example above.&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;Alternate PTP Configuration&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::While the other three XBee configuration changes remain the same, instead of changing the PAN ID, this configuration option uses the XBee’s internal serial numbers to configure the point-to-point routing.  The manufacturer assigns each XBee module a unique serial number which is expressed as two values: serial number high and serial number low. The alternate PTP configuration assigns the transmitting module’s “Destination Address High” and “Destination Address Low” to the serial number high and serial number low of the intended receiving module. The PAN IDs of all modules on the network must remain identical. In actual practice one can simply set the receiving radio&#039;s &amp;quot;My Address&amp;quot; setting and then set the &amp;quot;destination low&amp;quot; address to the &amp;quot;My Address&amp;quot; setting of the radio it&#039;s supposed to transmit to.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::This method is a bit more cumbersome than the normal PTP method but it results in a more private, secure network design. In a way, the alternate PTP method is similar to a dedicated TCP/IP addressing scheme for a computer network.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::&#039;&#039;&#039;Summary: the alternate PTP method uses XBee serial numbers or &amp;quot;My Address and destination low&amp;quot; to determine which pairs of modules connect to one another while keeping the PAN ID identical across all XBee modules. In addition, only one XBee module is needed per Ren-W board if the board is set as an E-mode repeater.&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;E-mode repeater: &#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
::To use the Ren-W as an E-mode repeater, connect a jumper shunt across JP5 and use only one XBee module in the TX (left) position. You must also also use the alternate PTP configuration method throughout your Ren-W network.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Additional Ren-W Links&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Renard Wireless Converter]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W BOM and Construction]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Configuration Concepts]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W XBee Radio Configuration]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Questions/Answers]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Troubleshooting]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Antenna Info]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Controller Heater]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8102 Ren-W Topic on the DIYC Forums]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Ren-W]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:DIYC Index]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Dirknerkle</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=Ren-W_BOM_and_Construction&amp;diff=12206</id>
		<title>Ren-W BOM and Construction</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=Ren-W_BOM_and_Construction&amp;diff=12206"/>
		<updated>2015-06-23T16:40:33Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Dirknerkle: /* Links to BOM, PCB and SCHEMATIC files */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;== &#039;&#039;&#039;Master Parts List (with Ren-W Part# and Mouser Part#)&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Qty --	Description (Ren-W Part)			&lt;br /&gt;
*1 or 2 -- RJ45 jacks, side or top entry (J1, J2)  Mouser# 571-5520251-4  (side entry)  571-5556416-1 (top entry)&lt;br /&gt;
*6 -- 2-pin vertical PCB headers    (JP1-JP6)	Mouser# 538-22-03-2021  (fewer may be necessary – see note below)&lt;br /&gt;
*5 -- 1 uf capacitors (non-polarized - C1, C2, C4, C5, C6)	Mouser# 810-FK24Y5V1H105Z   (Note: 1 uf 16v electrolytic capacitors may be substituted if you wish; polarity markings are provided on the board as a convenience if you use electrolytics.)&lt;br /&gt;
*1 -- 100uf, 16v electrolytic capacitor (C3)	Mouser# 647-UVR1C101MDD&lt;br /&gt;
*1 -- 3.3v 1w zener diode 		(D1)	Mouser# 583-1N4728A-B&lt;br /&gt;
*1 -- 33 ohm ¼w resistor 		(R1)	Mouser# 291-33-RC	(299-33-RC  1/8 watt is also okay)&lt;br /&gt;
*1 -- 1k ohm ¼w resistor (optional) 	(R2)	Mouser# 291-1K-RC	(299-1K-RC  1/8 watt is also okay)&lt;br /&gt;
*1 -- LED (any color – optional) 	(D2)	Mouser# 604-WP7104GT (green transparent)&lt;br /&gt;
*1 -- 16-pin DIP socket (optional)		Mouser# 571-1-390261-4&lt;br /&gt;
*1 -- 3.3v positive voltage regulator (U1)	Mouser# 595-UA78M33CKCSE3&lt;br /&gt;
*1 -- RS-232 Interface ICs Dual EIA-232 Driver	Mouser# 595-MAX232IN&lt;br /&gt;
*1 -- XBee Wireless RF modules	(Pro version w/1&amp;quot; whip antenna is Mouser# 888-XBP24-AWI-001. The SMA version is #888-XBP24-ASI-001)&lt;br /&gt;
*2 -- Female SL Connectors (optional)		Mouser# 538-16-02-0102&lt;br /&gt;
*1 -- Ren-W circuit board			(etch your own in the true DIYC spirit, or contact [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/member.php?3044-dirknerkle &#039;&#039;&#039;dirknerkle&#039;&#039;&#039;] for pre-made boards)&lt;br /&gt;
*2/4 --	2mm x 10-pin XBee female headers 	(H1-H4)	Mouser# M22-7131042 or also available from SparkFun Electronics as part# PRT-08272	($1 each)&lt;br /&gt;
*1 -- Ren-C users: Snap Choke Core Balun - Radio Shack part# 273-0069&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;SUBSTITUTE PARTS&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
* 3.3v voltage regulator: Texas Instruments part # UA78M33CKCS&lt;br /&gt;
* RS-232 chip: Mouser part #: 595-MAX232N&lt;br /&gt;
* RS-232 chip: Mouser part #: 595-MAX232EIN&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Rev6 board BOM Differences&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
::The Rev6 board needs only one RJ45 jack and only two XBee female headers. Otherwise, parts are the same.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;Links to BOM, PCB and SCHEMATIC files&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:* Here&#039;s a direct link to the Express PCB source file for the STANDARD board: [http://digwdf.com/dirknerkle/pcb/ren-w-master.pcb Ren-W STD PCB file]&lt;br /&gt;
:* Here&#039;s a direct link to the Express PCB source file for the SMA board: [http://digwdf.com/dirknerkle/pcb/ren-w-master-SMA.pcb Ren-W SMA PCB file]&lt;br /&gt;
:* Here&#039;s a direct link to the Express PCB source file for the Rev6 board: [http://digwdf.com/dirknerkle/pcb/ren-w-rev6.pcb Ren-W Rev6 PCB file]&lt;br /&gt;
:* Here&#039;s a direct link to the schematic for the Ren-W board: [http://digwdf.com/dirknerkle/pcb/ren-w_schematic.jpg Ren-W_Schematic.JPG file]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:* Go to [http://www.expresspcb.com www.expresspcb.com] to download their free PCB software to open the PCB file.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;PCB Parts Layout&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
: The only important difference between the standard board and the SMA board is the orientation of the XBee modules. The standard board has the modules pointing upward; the SMA version has them pointing downward to allow for the long RPSMA antenna connector. Pay careful attention to the orientation of the XBee when plugging it into the board. If you have the standard board, plugging in an XBee module with an SMA connector upside-down will NOT WORK. Likewise, plugging in an XBee with a 1&amp;quot; whip the wrong way on an SMA board won&#039;t work, either. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
: The latest Rev6 version of the board has space for only one XBee module and uses a jumper to make the board be either a transmitter (TX) or receiver (RX). The Rev6 board cannot function as a repeater board as it has only one RJ45 jack, but it is about 30% smaller in size and has fewer parts so it&#039;s slightly less expensive to build.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_parts_location.JPG |600px]] [[File:Renwrev6.jpg |225px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;Construction Step-by-step - SMA and Rev-6 Boards&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;&#039;OVERALL CONCEPT:&#039;&#039;&#039; It is usually easist to assemble a circuit board using the &amp;quot;height&amp;quot; concept -- start with the parts that lay lowest or on the board itself, then the parts that stand taller and finishing with the tallest parts, installing them last.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_build-1.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
: The &#039;&#039;&#039;basic&#039;&#039;&#039; construction steps are identical for both the SMA and Rev6 versions of the board; the Rev6 board also uses the same part numbers. Obviously, the Rev6 has fewer parts, and where the parts don&#039;t exist, don&#039;t install them! Caution - the pins on the XBee female headers are quite tiny and require very little solder. Too much solder may flow down and fill the pin hole in the header itself and prevent plugging in the XBee later on.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:1.	Solder 2mm female headers at locations H1, H2, H3, H4 or: &lt;br /&gt;
:::	TX only: only H1, H2 are required&lt;br /&gt;
:::	RX only: only H3, H4 are required&lt;br /&gt;
:::	E-mode repeater: only H1, H2 are required.&lt;br /&gt;
:::	Normal repeater mode: all four headers required&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_build2.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:2.	Solder the 16-pin DIP socket into the MAX232 location. Note the position of pin 1; the notch faces to the right. If no socket is to be used, solder the MAX232 directly to the Ren-W board; verify the pin orientation before soldering.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_build3.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:3.	Solder capacitors C1 and C2. You may wish to straighten the leads to fit the holes better such as the example at the bottom of the picture. There are no polarity concerns for non-polarized capacitors. (Note: The polarity markings on the board are for the convenience of users who are using electrolytic capacitors instead of the non-polarized type.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_build4.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:4. Solder non-polarized capacitors C4, C5 and C6. Like C1 and C2, if electrolytic capacitors are used, observe the + polarity markings on the board. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_build5.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:5.	Solder electrolytic capacitor C3. Note the polarity: the + side into the square pad (top) closer to jack J2 which means the stripe on the capacitor faces DOWN.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_build6.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
:6.	Solder 2-pin headers JP1, JP2, JP3, JP4, JP5, JP6. (Note: JP1 and JP2 are optional.) The header pins are a tight fit; be careful as you wiggle them into their respective holes.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_build7.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:7.	Solder RJ45 jacks J1, J2&lt;br /&gt;
:::	TX only: only J1 is required&lt;br /&gt;
:::	RX only: only J2 is required&lt;br /&gt;
:::	Normal repeater and E-mode repeater: both J1 and J2 are required&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_build8.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:8.	Solder zener diode D1. Note the polarity – on the SMA board, the band on the diode must be facing up, next to header JP6. On the Rev6 board the band on the diode must be facing DOWN, next to header H2.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_build9.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:9.	Solder resistors R1 (orange-orange-black) and R2 (brown-black-red). R2 is only required if the optional power LED (D2) is used. No polarity concerns.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_build10.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:10.	Solder the optional power LED at position D2. Note the polarity – the flat side/cathode/shorter lead faces to the mounting hole immediately to the right of D2.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_build11.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:11.	Solder the 3.3v voltage regulator U1. On the SMA board the metal heat sink side faces toward JP2 (top); on the Rev6 board the metal heat sink side faces toward C3 (right). The need for an additional heat sink is highly unlikely as the supply voltage is only 5vdc. At this point, applying power to the SMA board should light the LED (if installed) and the voltage test points in the middle of the board should register the proper voltages. The Rev6 board requires that the XBee radio be in the sockets; the LED will then blink showing the XBee radio is operational. Disconnect power before continuing with the next step.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_complete.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:12.	Install the MAX232 and XBee module(s) in their respective sockets: use the XBee RX side for a receive-only board, the XBee TX side for a transmit-only board. Note the position of pin 1.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:13.	Install optional jumper shunt at JP6 if necessary. This bypasses the R1 resistor (33 ohms) and allows a weaker RS-485 signal through to the XBee radio in transmit mode. Normally, this jumper shunt is not necessary.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:14.    Install optional jumper shunt at JP5 if necessary. This makes the Ren-W into an E-Mode repeater where a single XBee module in the TX position serves as both the receiver and transmitter.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:15.  CAUTION: Never place jumper shunts across JP1 or JP2!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:16.  CAUTION: Never place jumper shunts across either pin of JP3 to either pin of JP4!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:17.  REV-6 board only: install 2-pin jumper headers at the TX and RX locations.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;Powering the Ren-W board&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:::::[[File:Ren-w_jumper-connector.JPG |200px]]   &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::* A nifty solution that retains the SS controller’s ability to use the diagnostic LEDs is to solder each end of a single strand of cat5 wire to an open jumper shunt such as the photo above. Alternately, you may wish to make your own power cable using two female SL connectors; use a small piece of shrink tubing around the connector for insulation safety. (Both pins on the Ren-W’s JP3 header are +5vdc; both JP4 pins are ground connections.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:::::[[File:Ren-w_mount3.JPG |500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::* With WayneJ&#039;s SS line of boards, the Ren-W draws its +5vdc power from the left pin of the board’s JP3 header (photo above); the ground power connection is made when the Ren-W is connected to either of the SS controller&#039;s RJ45 jacks. If you used the open jumper shunts to make your cable, simply plug the shunts into the JP3 headers on both the SS controller and the Ren-W.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:::::[[File:Ren24LV_5vdc.JPG |250px]] &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::* With Frank Kostyun&#039;s Ren24 ver 3.3, +5vdc can be taken at TP2 (test point 2). You may drill a small hole in the pad if you wish to solder-in a single pin header. With the Ren24LV (photo above) the red circles show places where 5vdc can be found: TP2 and the &amp;quot;Power Tie&amp;quot; (both circled in red in the above photo). The power tie includes six places for jumper header pins, the TOP LEFT of which carries +5vdc (red arrow) Remember, ground is made automatically when the cat5 cable is plugged in.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:::::[[File:Ren64_5vdc.JPG |450px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::* With Wjohn&#039;s Ren64 (version XC5) there is a small, unmarked +5vdc test point immediately below pin 8 of U5 (the rightmost ST485BN chip) and just left of R14. Solder-in a single header pin if you like such as the example above (red circle).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:::::[[File:Ren_c.JPG |450px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::* With Wjohn&#039;s Ren-C, +5vdc can be taken from the header pin immediately to the left of the Q1 transistor. The pin is marked VCC. Another +5vd VCC location is the 2nd from the top pin of the 6-pin JP6 programming header. Either location is fine. Both are marked with red arrows in the photo above.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::* With Budude&#039;s Ren48LSD, if you power the LSD board with 12vdc or less you can solder a single header pin into the test point that&#039;s next to the .1uf capacitor that resides between the voltage regulator and the 2200uf capacitor. The Ren-W&#039;s voltage regulator may get a bit warm but the MAX232 chip can handle 12vdc power and you should be okay. However, if you power the LSD board with more than 12vdc, you must tap power from the +5v side of one of the .1uf capacitors connected to pin 1 of any of the PIC16F688 chips. While not as handy as using the test point, it&#039;s a safer and more accurate way to power the Ren-W from the Ren48LSD.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;Connecting the Ren-W to a Renard SS Controller&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
	&lt;br /&gt;
:* Connect JP3 to JP3 on the SS to power the Ren-W (5vdc).&lt;br /&gt;
:* Ren-W as a transmit only node: connect only J1 to J1 on the SS. Leave J2 on the Ren-W unconnected.&lt;br /&gt;
:* Ren-W as a receive only node: connect only J2 to J2 on the SS. Leave J1 on the Ren-W unconnected.&lt;br /&gt;
:* Ren-W as a standard repeater: connect J1 to J1 and J2 to J2 on the SS. (A standard repeater has TWO XBee modules.)&lt;br /&gt;
:* Ren-W as an E-mode repeater: connect J1 to J1 and J2 to J2 on the SS, add a jumper on the Ren-W’s JP5 and make sure the Ren-W has only a single XBee module plugged into the TX (left) position. (An E-Mode repeater has only ONE XBee module.)&lt;br /&gt;
:* On the SS controller, you may find that the board functions better with JP1 not jumpered (RS-485 mode)but JP2 is jumpered. You can always try JP1 jumpered, but it may not be as effective.&lt;br /&gt;
:* If connecting to the RS-IN of a Ren-C, be sure to affix a snap choke core balun on the cat5 cable (Radio Shack part# 273-0069).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:* Rev6 board only: since this board has only one RJ45 jack (J2), it can be plugged into either the J1 or J2 jack on the Renard controller. If using the Rev6 as a receiver, place a jumper shunt on the RX header and connect J2 to the RS INPUT jack of the controller. If using the Rev6 as a transmitter, place a jumper shunt on the TX header and connect the Rev6&#039;s J2 to the RS OUTPUT jack of the controller. Note that the Rev6 board cannot be used as a &amp;quot;repeater&amp;quot; board which both receives and retransmits out. However, it can be used to transmit from a wired Renard controller to another Ren-W. Of course, a Rev6 can also be a main transmitter board at the PC as well. IMPORTANT: Rev-6 works best when JP2 (the termination resistor) on the SS board is open and not shunted.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;What are JP1, JP2 and JP6 used for?&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::JP1 is an optional RS-485 input connection. Because an XBee module can be programmed via serial communications using a simple AT commands from within a terminal program such as Windows Hyperterminal, these headers provide external access to the R1IN (pin 13, JP1) and T1OUT (pin 14, JP2) serial connections of the MAX232 chip, which in turn, communicates with the XBee module. Both data and ground are provided; ground is the right pin and is marked with G. Using the XCTU software and an XBee programmer board is vastly more convenient that manually configuring a module using AT commands but Digi provides ample documentation for AT command line programming. You can also measure the input voltage of the RS-485 signal at JP1; an acceptable range is +3.3 to +4.8 vdc. It is not expected that this voltage will exceed 5vdc. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::JP2 is an optional RS-232 output connection and can also be used to connect Ren-W to other serial devices. The output voltage is inverted and should be -5.0 to -5.5vdc, depending on the original input voltage.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:::::&#039;&#039;&#039;Caution: never place a shunt jumper across JP1 or JP2, or across either pin of JP3 to either pin of JP4.&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::JP6 is used to bypass the 33ohm resistor R1 which helps moderate the RS-485 serial signal’s current. The combination of R1 and zener diode D1 form a voltage/current protection circuit that limits the serial voltage to a maximum of 3.3 volts before it enters the XBee module’s DIN port. However, not all RS-485 serial signals are of the same voltage and if your serial signal is less than +3.3 volts, you may find that the integrity of transmitted data may increase by placing a shunt jumper on JP6 to bypass resistor R1. If the serial signal is +3.8 vdc or greater, you should leave JP6 open. The XBee module includes a modicum of internal protection and in testing, we found that an XBee can accommodate +5vdc at the input DIN for a short period of time (a few seconds), after which the XBee may stop responding and appear to “lock up.” Temporarily removing power to the board usually resets the XBee so that it will function again.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;Other Voltage Test Points&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::Almost in the exact center of the Ren-W board are three test points marked 5vdc, GND and 3vdc (actually 3.3v). While the actual voltages may vary slightly, the tested values should be very close to those figures. Our prototype measured 4.96v and 3.29v.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;Economy Ren-W Construction&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::If you know exactly how many receive-only and/or transmit-only boards you need and want to save some cash, you can economize by not populating the board with parts that will not be used. For example, below are pictures of stripped-down yet fully functional transmit-only (left) and receive-only (right) boards. Note the parts that are missing on each board. These examples also show the standard XBee radio, not the Pro version, which cuts cost even more, although the standard XBee is quite limited in transmission range. (Price comparison: the Standard Xbee is $19, XBee Pro is $32, XBee Pro with SMA connector is $34.):&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:::[[File:Ren-w_tx_only.JPG |350px]]  [[File:Ren-w_rx_only.JPG |350px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::&#039;&#039;&#039;Bottom line:&#039;&#039;&#039; a fully-populated Ren-W board totals about $43.38 for parts with the XBee Pro radio. If you don&#039;t need the extra power of the Pro version and opt for the standard XBee, you could build a transmit-only or receive-only board for about $26. Home-etch the boards yourself and you could have a fully-functional two-station system for about $50, and using the XBee Pro version would cost only $26 more for the pair. So if you&#039;re on the fence about wireless, you can see that it doesn&#039;t have to cost an arm-and-a-leg.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;Mounting a Ren-W and SS24 Controller in a CG2000 Enclosure&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:(click photos to enlarge)&lt;br /&gt;
:[[File:Ren-w_mount1.JPG |250px]] [[File:Ren-w_mount2.JPG |250px]]  [[File:Ren-w_mount4.JPG |250px]]  &lt;br /&gt;
Using side-entry RJ45s on the Ren-W and looping a cat5 cable from the Ren-W to the SS24, stress is minimized on all RJ45 connectors and the case can easily be fully opened. The Ren-W is mounted at the top of the case, to minimize magnetic interference from the SS24&#039;s transformer, and the SS24 is mounted diagonally in the CG2000 case to allow room for the antenna as well as a little additional distance from the triacs, another potential source of interference. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Additional Ren-W Links&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Renard Wireless Converter]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W BOM and Construction]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Configuration Concepts]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W XBee Radio Configuration]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Questions/Answers]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Troubleshooting]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Antenna Info]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Controller Heater]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8102 Ren-W Topic on the DIYC Forums]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Ren-W]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:DIYC Index]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Dirknerkle</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=Ren-W_BOM_and_Construction&amp;diff=12205</id>
		<title>Ren-W BOM and Construction</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=Ren-W_BOM_and_Construction&amp;diff=12205"/>
		<updated>2015-06-23T16:39:46Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Dirknerkle: /* Links to BOM, PCB and SCHEMATIC files */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;== &#039;&#039;&#039;Master Parts List (with Ren-W Part# and Mouser Part#)&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Qty --	Description (Ren-W Part)			&lt;br /&gt;
*1 or 2 -- RJ45 jacks, side or top entry (J1, J2)  Mouser# 571-5520251-4  (side entry)  571-5556416-1 (top entry)&lt;br /&gt;
*6 -- 2-pin vertical PCB headers    (JP1-JP6)	Mouser# 538-22-03-2021  (fewer may be necessary – see note below)&lt;br /&gt;
*5 -- 1 uf capacitors (non-polarized - C1, C2, C4, C5, C6)	Mouser# 810-FK24Y5V1H105Z   (Note: 1 uf 16v electrolytic capacitors may be substituted if you wish; polarity markings are provided on the board as a convenience if you use electrolytics.)&lt;br /&gt;
*1 -- 100uf, 16v electrolytic capacitor (C3)	Mouser# 647-UVR1C101MDD&lt;br /&gt;
*1 -- 3.3v 1w zener diode 		(D1)	Mouser# 583-1N4728A-B&lt;br /&gt;
*1 -- 33 ohm ¼w resistor 		(R1)	Mouser# 291-33-RC	(299-33-RC  1/8 watt is also okay)&lt;br /&gt;
*1 -- 1k ohm ¼w resistor (optional) 	(R2)	Mouser# 291-1K-RC	(299-1K-RC  1/8 watt is also okay)&lt;br /&gt;
*1 -- LED (any color – optional) 	(D2)	Mouser# 604-WP7104GT (green transparent)&lt;br /&gt;
*1 -- 16-pin DIP socket (optional)		Mouser# 571-1-390261-4&lt;br /&gt;
*1 -- 3.3v positive voltage regulator (U1)	Mouser# 595-UA78M33CKCSE3&lt;br /&gt;
*1 -- RS-232 Interface ICs Dual EIA-232 Driver	Mouser# 595-MAX232IN&lt;br /&gt;
*1 -- XBee Wireless RF modules	(Pro version w/1&amp;quot; whip antenna is Mouser# 888-XBP24-AWI-001. The SMA version is #888-XBP24-ASI-001)&lt;br /&gt;
*2 -- Female SL Connectors (optional)		Mouser# 538-16-02-0102&lt;br /&gt;
*1 -- Ren-W circuit board			(etch your own in the true DIYC spirit, or contact [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/member.php?3044-dirknerkle &#039;&#039;&#039;dirknerkle&#039;&#039;&#039;] for pre-made boards)&lt;br /&gt;
*2/4 --	2mm x 10-pin XBee female headers 	(H1-H4)	Mouser# M22-7131042 or also available from SparkFun Electronics as part# PRT-08272	($1 each)&lt;br /&gt;
*1 -- Ren-C users: Snap Choke Core Balun - Radio Shack part# 273-0069&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;SUBSTITUTE PARTS&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
* 3.3v voltage regulator: Texas Instruments part # UA78M33CKCS&lt;br /&gt;
* RS-232 chip: Mouser part #: 595-MAX232N&lt;br /&gt;
* RS-232 chip: Mouser part #: 595-MAX232EIN&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Rev6 board BOM Differences&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
::The Rev6 board needs only one RJ45 jack and only two XBee female headers. Otherwise, parts are the same.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;Links to BOM, PCB and SCHEMATIC files&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:* Here&#039;s a direct link to the complete Mouser BOM: [http://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=e1460aa043 Ren-W BOM]&lt;br /&gt;
:* Here&#039;s a direct link to the Express PCB source file for the STANDARD board: [http://digwdf.com/dirknerkle/pcb/ren-w-master.pcb Ren-W STD PCB file]&lt;br /&gt;
:* Here&#039;s a direct link to the Express PCB source file for the SMA board: [http://digwdf.com/dirknerkle/pcb/ren-w-master-SMA.pcb Ren-W SMA PCB file]&lt;br /&gt;
:* Here&#039;s a direct link to the Express PCB source file for the Rev6 board: [http://digwdf.com/dirknerkle/pcb/ren-w-rev6.pcb Ren-W Rev6 PCB file]&lt;br /&gt;
:* Here&#039;s a direct link to the schematic for the Ren-W board: [http://digwdf.com/dirknerkle/pcb/ren-w_schematic.jpg Ren-W_Schematic.JPG file]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:* Go to [http://www.expresspcb.com www.expresspcb.com] to download their free PCB software to open the PCB file.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;PCB Parts Layout&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
: The only important difference between the standard board and the SMA board is the orientation of the XBee modules. The standard board has the modules pointing upward; the SMA version has them pointing downward to allow for the long RPSMA antenna connector. Pay careful attention to the orientation of the XBee when plugging it into the board. If you have the standard board, plugging in an XBee module with an SMA connector upside-down will NOT WORK. Likewise, plugging in an XBee with a 1&amp;quot; whip the wrong way on an SMA board won&#039;t work, either. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
: The latest Rev6 version of the board has space for only one XBee module and uses a jumper to make the board be either a transmitter (TX) or receiver (RX). The Rev6 board cannot function as a repeater board as it has only one RJ45 jack, but it is about 30% smaller in size and has fewer parts so it&#039;s slightly less expensive to build.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_parts_location.JPG |600px]] [[File:Renwrev6.jpg |225px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;Construction Step-by-step - SMA and Rev-6 Boards&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;&#039;OVERALL CONCEPT:&#039;&#039;&#039; It is usually easist to assemble a circuit board using the &amp;quot;height&amp;quot; concept -- start with the parts that lay lowest or on the board itself, then the parts that stand taller and finishing with the tallest parts, installing them last.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_build-1.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
: The &#039;&#039;&#039;basic&#039;&#039;&#039; construction steps are identical for both the SMA and Rev6 versions of the board; the Rev6 board also uses the same part numbers. Obviously, the Rev6 has fewer parts, and where the parts don&#039;t exist, don&#039;t install them! Caution - the pins on the XBee female headers are quite tiny and require very little solder. Too much solder may flow down and fill the pin hole in the header itself and prevent plugging in the XBee later on.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:1.	Solder 2mm female headers at locations H1, H2, H3, H4 or: &lt;br /&gt;
:::	TX only: only H1, H2 are required&lt;br /&gt;
:::	RX only: only H3, H4 are required&lt;br /&gt;
:::	E-mode repeater: only H1, H2 are required.&lt;br /&gt;
:::	Normal repeater mode: all four headers required&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_build2.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:2.	Solder the 16-pin DIP socket into the MAX232 location. Note the position of pin 1; the notch faces to the right. If no socket is to be used, solder the MAX232 directly to the Ren-W board; verify the pin orientation before soldering.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_build3.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:3.	Solder capacitors C1 and C2. You may wish to straighten the leads to fit the holes better such as the example at the bottom of the picture. There are no polarity concerns for non-polarized capacitors. (Note: The polarity markings on the board are for the convenience of users who are using electrolytic capacitors instead of the non-polarized type.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_build4.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:4. Solder non-polarized capacitors C4, C5 and C6. Like C1 and C2, if electrolytic capacitors are used, observe the + polarity markings on the board. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_build5.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:5.	Solder electrolytic capacitor C3. Note the polarity: the + side into the square pad (top) closer to jack J2 which means the stripe on the capacitor faces DOWN.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_build6.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
:6.	Solder 2-pin headers JP1, JP2, JP3, JP4, JP5, JP6. (Note: JP1 and JP2 are optional.) The header pins are a tight fit; be careful as you wiggle them into their respective holes.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_build7.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:7.	Solder RJ45 jacks J1, J2&lt;br /&gt;
:::	TX only: only J1 is required&lt;br /&gt;
:::	RX only: only J2 is required&lt;br /&gt;
:::	Normal repeater and E-mode repeater: both J1 and J2 are required&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_build8.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:8.	Solder zener diode D1. Note the polarity – on the SMA board, the band on the diode must be facing up, next to header JP6. On the Rev6 board the band on the diode must be facing DOWN, next to header H2.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_build9.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:9.	Solder resistors R1 (orange-orange-black) and R2 (brown-black-red). R2 is only required if the optional power LED (D2) is used. No polarity concerns.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_build10.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:10.	Solder the optional power LED at position D2. Note the polarity – the flat side/cathode/shorter lead faces to the mounting hole immediately to the right of D2.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_build11.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:11.	Solder the 3.3v voltage regulator U1. On the SMA board the metal heat sink side faces toward JP2 (top); on the Rev6 board the metal heat sink side faces toward C3 (right). The need for an additional heat sink is highly unlikely as the supply voltage is only 5vdc. At this point, applying power to the SMA board should light the LED (if installed) and the voltage test points in the middle of the board should register the proper voltages. The Rev6 board requires that the XBee radio be in the sockets; the LED will then blink showing the XBee radio is operational. Disconnect power before continuing with the next step.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_complete.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:12.	Install the MAX232 and XBee module(s) in their respective sockets: use the XBee RX side for a receive-only board, the XBee TX side for a transmit-only board. Note the position of pin 1.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:13.	Install optional jumper shunt at JP6 if necessary. This bypasses the R1 resistor (33 ohms) and allows a weaker RS-485 signal through to the XBee radio in transmit mode. Normally, this jumper shunt is not necessary.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:14.    Install optional jumper shunt at JP5 if necessary. This makes the Ren-W into an E-Mode repeater where a single XBee module in the TX position serves as both the receiver and transmitter.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:15.  CAUTION: Never place jumper shunts across JP1 or JP2!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:16.  CAUTION: Never place jumper shunts across either pin of JP3 to either pin of JP4!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:17.  REV-6 board only: install 2-pin jumper headers at the TX and RX locations.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;Powering the Ren-W board&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:::::[[File:Ren-w_jumper-connector.JPG |200px]]   &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::* A nifty solution that retains the SS controller’s ability to use the diagnostic LEDs is to solder each end of a single strand of cat5 wire to an open jumper shunt such as the photo above. Alternately, you may wish to make your own power cable using two female SL connectors; use a small piece of shrink tubing around the connector for insulation safety. (Both pins on the Ren-W’s JP3 header are +5vdc; both JP4 pins are ground connections.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:::::[[File:Ren-w_mount3.JPG |500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::* With WayneJ&#039;s SS line of boards, the Ren-W draws its +5vdc power from the left pin of the board’s JP3 header (photo above); the ground power connection is made when the Ren-W is connected to either of the SS controller&#039;s RJ45 jacks. If you used the open jumper shunts to make your cable, simply plug the shunts into the JP3 headers on both the SS controller and the Ren-W.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:::::[[File:Ren24LV_5vdc.JPG |250px]] &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::* With Frank Kostyun&#039;s Ren24 ver 3.3, +5vdc can be taken at TP2 (test point 2). You may drill a small hole in the pad if you wish to solder-in a single pin header. With the Ren24LV (photo above) the red circles show places where 5vdc can be found: TP2 and the &amp;quot;Power Tie&amp;quot; (both circled in red in the above photo). The power tie includes six places for jumper header pins, the TOP LEFT of which carries +5vdc (red arrow) Remember, ground is made automatically when the cat5 cable is plugged in.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:::::[[File:Ren64_5vdc.JPG |450px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::* With Wjohn&#039;s Ren64 (version XC5) there is a small, unmarked +5vdc test point immediately below pin 8 of U5 (the rightmost ST485BN chip) and just left of R14. Solder-in a single header pin if you like such as the example above (red circle).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:::::[[File:Ren_c.JPG |450px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::* With Wjohn&#039;s Ren-C, +5vdc can be taken from the header pin immediately to the left of the Q1 transistor. The pin is marked VCC. Another +5vd VCC location is the 2nd from the top pin of the 6-pin JP6 programming header. Either location is fine. Both are marked with red arrows in the photo above.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::* With Budude&#039;s Ren48LSD, if you power the LSD board with 12vdc or less you can solder a single header pin into the test point that&#039;s next to the .1uf capacitor that resides between the voltage regulator and the 2200uf capacitor. The Ren-W&#039;s voltage regulator may get a bit warm but the MAX232 chip can handle 12vdc power and you should be okay. However, if you power the LSD board with more than 12vdc, you must tap power from the +5v side of one of the .1uf capacitors connected to pin 1 of any of the PIC16F688 chips. While not as handy as using the test point, it&#039;s a safer and more accurate way to power the Ren-W from the Ren48LSD.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;Connecting the Ren-W to a Renard SS Controller&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
	&lt;br /&gt;
:* Connect JP3 to JP3 on the SS to power the Ren-W (5vdc).&lt;br /&gt;
:* Ren-W as a transmit only node: connect only J1 to J1 on the SS. Leave J2 on the Ren-W unconnected.&lt;br /&gt;
:* Ren-W as a receive only node: connect only J2 to J2 on the SS. Leave J1 on the Ren-W unconnected.&lt;br /&gt;
:* Ren-W as a standard repeater: connect J1 to J1 and J2 to J2 on the SS. (A standard repeater has TWO XBee modules.)&lt;br /&gt;
:* Ren-W as an E-mode repeater: connect J1 to J1 and J2 to J2 on the SS, add a jumper on the Ren-W’s JP5 and make sure the Ren-W has only a single XBee module plugged into the TX (left) position. (An E-Mode repeater has only ONE XBee module.)&lt;br /&gt;
:* On the SS controller, you may find that the board functions better with JP1 not jumpered (RS-485 mode)but JP2 is jumpered. You can always try JP1 jumpered, but it may not be as effective.&lt;br /&gt;
:* If connecting to the RS-IN of a Ren-C, be sure to affix a snap choke core balun on the cat5 cable (Radio Shack part# 273-0069).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:* Rev6 board only: since this board has only one RJ45 jack (J2), it can be plugged into either the J1 or J2 jack on the Renard controller. If using the Rev6 as a receiver, place a jumper shunt on the RX header and connect J2 to the RS INPUT jack of the controller. If using the Rev6 as a transmitter, place a jumper shunt on the TX header and connect the Rev6&#039;s J2 to the RS OUTPUT jack of the controller. Note that the Rev6 board cannot be used as a &amp;quot;repeater&amp;quot; board which both receives and retransmits out. However, it can be used to transmit from a wired Renard controller to another Ren-W. Of course, a Rev6 can also be a main transmitter board at the PC as well. IMPORTANT: Rev-6 works best when JP2 (the termination resistor) on the SS board is open and not shunted.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;What are JP1, JP2 and JP6 used for?&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::JP1 is an optional RS-485 input connection. Because an XBee module can be programmed via serial communications using a simple AT commands from within a terminal program such as Windows Hyperterminal, these headers provide external access to the R1IN (pin 13, JP1) and T1OUT (pin 14, JP2) serial connections of the MAX232 chip, which in turn, communicates with the XBee module. Both data and ground are provided; ground is the right pin and is marked with G. Using the XCTU software and an XBee programmer board is vastly more convenient that manually configuring a module using AT commands but Digi provides ample documentation for AT command line programming. You can also measure the input voltage of the RS-485 signal at JP1; an acceptable range is +3.3 to +4.8 vdc. It is not expected that this voltage will exceed 5vdc. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::JP2 is an optional RS-232 output connection and can also be used to connect Ren-W to other serial devices. The output voltage is inverted and should be -5.0 to -5.5vdc, depending on the original input voltage.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:::::&#039;&#039;&#039;Caution: never place a shunt jumper across JP1 or JP2, or across either pin of JP3 to either pin of JP4.&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::JP6 is used to bypass the 33ohm resistor R1 which helps moderate the RS-485 serial signal’s current. The combination of R1 and zener diode D1 form a voltage/current protection circuit that limits the serial voltage to a maximum of 3.3 volts before it enters the XBee module’s DIN port. However, not all RS-485 serial signals are of the same voltage and if your serial signal is less than +3.3 volts, you may find that the integrity of transmitted data may increase by placing a shunt jumper on JP6 to bypass resistor R1. If the serial signal is +3.8 vdc or greater, you should leave JP6 open. The XBee module includes a modicum of internal protection and in testing, we found that an XBee can accommodate +5vdc at the input DIN for a short period of time (a few seconds), after which the XBee may stop responding and appear to “lock up.” Temporarily removing power to the board usually resets the XBee so that it will function again.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;Other Voltage Test Points&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::Almost in the exact center of the Ren-W board are three test points marked 5vdc, GND and 3vdc (actually 3.3v). While the actual voltages may vary slightly, the tested values should be very close to those figures. Our prototype measured 4.96v and 3.29v.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;Economy Ren-W Construction&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::If you know exactly how many receive-only and/or transmit-only boards you need and want to save some cash, you can economize by not populating the board with parts that will not be used. For example, below are pictures of stripped-down yet fully functional transmit-only (left) and receive-only (right) boards. Note the parts that are missing on each board. These examples also show the standard XBee radio, not the Pro version, which cuts cost even more, although the standard XBee is quite limited in transmission range. (Price comparison: the Standard Xbee is $19, XBee Pro is $32, XBee Pro with SMA connector is $34.):&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:::[[File:Ren-w_tx_only.JPG |350px]]  [[File:Ren-w_rx_only.JPG |350px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::&#039;&#039;&#039;Bottom line:&#039;&#039;&#039; a fully-populated Ren-W board totals about $43.38 for parts with the XBee Pro radio. If you don&#039;t need the extra power of the Pro version and opt for the standard XBee, you could build a transmit-only or receive-only board for about $26. Home-etch the boards yourself and you could have a fully-functional two-station system for about $50, and using the XBee Pro version would cost only $26 more for the pair. So if you&#039;re on the fence about wireless, you can see that it doesn&#039;t have to cost an arm-and-a-leg.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;Mounting a Ren-W and SS24 Controller in a CG2000 Enclosure&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:(click photos to enlarge)&lt;br /&gt;
:[[File:Ren-w_mount1.JPG |250px]] [[File:Ren-w_mount2.JPG |250px]]  [[File:Ren-w_mount4.JPG |250px]]  &lt;br /&gt;
Using side-entry RJ45s on the Ren-W and looping a cat5 cable from the Ren-W to the SS24, stress is minimized on all RJ45 connectors and the case can easily be fully opened. The Ren-W is mounted at the top of the case, to minimize magnetic interference from the SS24&#039;s transformer, and the SS24 is mounted diagonally in the CG2000 case to allow room for the antenna as well as a little additional distance from the triacs, another potential source of interference. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Additional Ren-W Links&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Renard Wireless Converter]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W BOM and Construction]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Configuration Concepts]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W XBee Radio Configuration]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Questions/Answers]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Troubleshooting]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Antenna Info]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Controller Heater]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8102 Ren-W Topic on the DIYC Forums]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Ren-W]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:DIYC Index]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Dirknerkle</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=Renard_Wireless_Converter&amp;diff=10239</id>
		<title>Renard Wireless Converter</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=Renard_Wireless_Converter&amp;diff=10239"/>
		<updated>2013-05-24T19:59:41Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Dirknerkle: /* Why a Wireless Converter? */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;:[[File:Ren-w_complete.JPG|330px ]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;Why a Wireless Converter?&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:Sometimes it&#039;s not practical, affordable or maybe even possible to lay physical cable to a particular light controller. For example, trenching beneath your driveway to put a megatree on the other side is a messy, dirty and potentially expensive project. Or let&#039;s say you have a pond behind your house and you&#039;d like to put a display on the bank on the other side where there&#039;s already an electrical connection for a circulating fountain. Or maybe your neighbor across the street wants you to help him light his house -- trenching beneath a street or suspending cable above it would probably require multiple permits from your local municipality, if it were allowed at all. Maybe you&#039;ve built a new house and you don&#039;t want to leave a window open so all the cables can be routed through it to the outside. Or perhaps you live in an apartment building or rented condo where drilling a hole through the wall isn&#039;t even an option. These are just some examples of instances where a wireless connection to your outside Renard controller could very likely be the simplest and most affordable choice. That&#039;s why the Ren-W was invented.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::&#039;&#039;&#039;NOTES:&#039;&#039;&#039; In the years since this documentation was originally created, the physical Ren-W board has undergone a few revisions. Even so, the construction methodology hasn&#039;t changed and the concepts expressed in this WIKI continue to hold true. The antenna configurations of the XBee radios and the configuration setup of the XBee radios with XCTU software have not changed either, and the documents here should stand in good stead for a long time to come.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::It is highly suggested that instead of cherrypicking bits of information here and there, the reader should go through everything at least once to get a flavor for what wireless is all about. The Q&amp;amp;A and Troubleshooting sections solve most of the questions that users have had, and the section about antennas covers the various XBee antenna types quite thoroughly. Lastly, the Renard Start Address firmware is absolutely the right tool to accompany wireless operation. The Start Address guide is really a closely-knit companion piece to the Ren-W information.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;Overview&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:Ren-W is an inexpensive, compact (3”H x 2.5”W), easy-to-build and configure plug-in wireless adapter for Renard controllers and 595/Grinch systems that use Ren-C (see Ren-C note below). It can also be used with other Renard controllers with very slight modifications to the controllers to tap +5v power for the Ren-W. The Ren-W functions as a transparent serial connection between Renard controllers by converting RS-485 serial data into a digital stream, transmitting it wirelessly to another Ren-W where the digital stream is recombined into serial data and fed into the Renard controller’s normal RJ45 input jack (J2) via short cat5 cable, just like it would have been had the computer been hard-wired directly to the controller. In a typical Renard daisy chain design, channel data that a Renard controller can’t use is passed through and out the controller’s data-out RJ45 jack (J1) as RS-485 data, which is then fed back into the Ren-W, retransmitted to the next Ren-W that’s supposed to receive it, where the digital stream is recombined into serial data, etc. and the process is repeated for as many Ren-W adapters as are in the chain. The Ren-W uses inexpensive yet powerful XBee Pro wireless radio modules to perform the actual wireless transmission/reception functions. The cost to build a single Ren-W board varies from about $27 to $73, depending on the various electronic components chosen.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;DMX&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
:Ren-W is NOT compatible with DMX systems as DMX requires data speeds upwards of 250kbps. The XBee radio that Ren-W uses for wireless communication cannot support streaming data at that speed; it tops out at around 80kbps, which means that 57,600 baud is the highest communication speed Ren-W can support.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;Compatibility with various Renard Controllers&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:The Ren-W has been successfully tested with the following controllers:&lt;br /&gt;
:* WayneJ&#039;s Renard SS8, SS16 and SS24&lt;br /&gt;
:* Wjohn&#039;s Ren-C in either a Ren-C/Olsen 595 or Ren-C/Grinch setup&lt;br /&gt;
:* Wjohn&#039;s Ren64 ver XC5&lt;br /&gt;
:* Frank Kostyun&#039;s Ren24, versions 3.0 and 3.3, and the Ren24LV&lt;br /&gt;
:* Budude&#039;s Ren48LSD v3b&lt;br /&gt;
:* Renard Simple24 and Renard Simple32 by Mactayl and TStraub&lt;br /&gt;
:* CTMal&#039;s RenServo&lt;br /&gt;
:* Other Renard boards that use similar serial input/output circuitry should also work.&lt;br /&gt;
:* The following serial port parameters are highly suggested: Baud: 57600, Parity: Mark, Stop bits: 2&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;Renard basics and how they relate to Ren-W&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:In standard operation when multiple Renard SS controllers are daisy chained from one into the next, each controller uses the first X number of Vixen channels it receives where X is the number of channels the controller is designed to control. This is always a multiple of 8 because of the Renard program code and the PIC16F688 chips used in the SS controllers. The channels it can’t use are passed along to the next controller. Therefore, the order in which you chain one controller into the next can make a difference, and even more dramatically if the controllers have different channel counts. For example, if you had an SS8 and an SS24 (total 32 channels) and the first controller was the SS8 which daisy chained into the SS24, the SS8 will use the first 8 channels (1-8) and the SS24 would get the overflow channels 9-32. However, if the order was reversed and the SS24 was the first controller which daisy chained into the SS8, the SS24 will use the first 24 channels (1-24) and the SS8 would get the overflow channels 25-32.  The Ren-W simulates the daisy chain concept with “Point-to-point broadcasting” (PTP or Alternate PTP) because the Ren-W boards’ XBee radios are configured to provide exactly the same daisy chain logic, just as if you were connecting the controllers with cat5 cable to daisy chain one into the next, etc. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:To make two (or more) Renard controllers respond identically with the same Vixen commands, Vixen users usually replicate the Vixen channel information that controls one Renard to the corresponding channels that control the other Renards. However, what if you could use a “signal splitter” cable that distributed the same serial signal to multiple controllers, not unlike the concept of a “multi-outlet serial plug strip?” (Splitting an actual, stock serial signal to multiple devices without additional amplification is certainly possible but is generally a discouraged practice – the concept is used here for the illustration.) With such a splitter, each SS controller plugged into the “multi-outlet serial strip” would receive exactly the same channel information at the same time, just as if each was connected directly to the computer’s serial port. In the 32-channel example above however, since the SS8 has only 8 channels, it would be able to use only Vixen channels 1-8 while the SS24 would be able to use channels 1-24, &#039;&#039;and channels 25-32 would not be used by either controller.&#039;&#039; The “serial signal splitter” concept can be accomplished wirelessly quite easily; Ren-W refers to this as &#039;&#039;“Global Broadcasting.”&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:A version of Renard firmware is available that makes &amp;quot;global broadcasting&amp;quot; possible while still retaining individual channel control. The firmware is an ideal match for the Ren-W and uses a &amp;quot;start address&amp;quot; concept where you set the starting channel number for the controller(s). For more information read the configuration guide: [http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=Renard_Start_Address_Configuration_Guide Start Address Configuration Guide]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;XBee Wireless Radio Module Basics&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:XBee radio modules are essentially addressable wireless serial modems. Ren-W uses XBee radios as a “serial line replacement” to the normal cat5 wiring used to connect Renard controllers. XBees can communicate with one another on a one to one, one to many, or one to all &amp;quot;global broadcast&amp;quot; mode, depending on how each module is configured. The XBee’s configuration flexibility makes it possible to configure a Ren-W network so that multiple Renard controllers respond to the same channels or the network may be configured so that each controller has its own range of channels, which is more in keeping with normal Renard use. XBee radios are designed to accommodate streaming serial data up to 80kbps. Therefore, for best results, set your computer and Renard controllers at 57,600 baud; at 115,200 you may encounter erratic behavior.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;Ren-W Operating Modes&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;&#039;Receive only mode:&#039;&#039;&#039; only one XBee module is required, plugged into the XBee RX (right) side of the Ren-W board.&lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;&#039;Transmit only mode:&#039;&#039;&#039; only one XBee module is required, plugged into the XBee TX (left) side of the Ren-W board.&lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;&#039;Repeater mode:&#039;&#039;&#039; two XBee modules are needed, one for each side of the Ren-W board. One will receive, the other will retransmit the Vixen commands to the next Ren-W. This applies only to the SMA board, the only board that has space for two Xbee modules.&lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;&#039;E-mode repeater:&#039;&#039;&#039;  only one XBee module is needed to perform the repeater functions, plugged into the XBee TX (left) side of the Ren-W board. Because a single XBee module must perform receive/transmit sequentially instead of simultaneously, small periodic delays in propagating the Vixen commands to the next Ren-W unit may occur. Note also that E-mode requires the use of the alternate PTP configuration scheme, outlined below, as well as a jumper across JP5. Only the SMA board can operate in e-mode.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;Signal Propagation Delay&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:An XBee module can require up to 6ms to process received data; normally it&#039;s 2-3ms. While this is a very short period of time, consider that the delay is cumulative when multiple Ren-W nodes are configured in repeater mode. For example, in a Ren-W network of 5 nodes, the last SS controller could be nearly 30ms late in reacting to Vixen control commands. This may not be very perceptible in some situations but in others, it could become quite noticeable and the delay should be factored into the general design of a Ren-W network, and possibly during the light sequencing design as well. Note that in global broadcast mode, the delay is not cumulative as all receiving Ren-Ws receive the Vixen commands simultaneously and each unit would only be 2-3ms (or less) late. In actual testing, whatever delay may exist in global broadcast mode is virtually undetectable.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;Selecting the right XBee Modules - Which Do I Need?&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:XBee RF modules come in a standard and a &amp;quot;pro&amp;quot; version, and they operate in the 2.4ghz frequency spectrum. The modules do not interfere with wireless computer networks that also operate at 2.4ghz. The lower-powered standard version is said to have a line-of-sight transmission range upwards of 300 feet while the more powerful “pro” version is only ¼” larger and has a line-of-sight range upwards of a mile. In actual use, the distances are quite probably less than the stated specifications, especially considering the modules will likely be housed inside a protective non-metallic box of some kind. Mounting inside a metal box is not advised as it will severely hamper effective transmission distance.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:xbee_radio_modules.JPG|750px ]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:The antenna type on an XBee module can make a difference, too. (Be sure to read the pages about antennas!) The short, 1&amp;quot; wire antenna will provide better coverage than the flat, on-chip antenna. A version is also available with an antenna connector, presumably for a external directional antenna and even greater range potential. There is no significant price difference for the different antenna types and all are available for both the standard and pro versions. Suggestion: If using the Ren-W in normal repeater mode, consider using the lower powered, lesser expensive standard module for receiving and the more powerful pro module for transmitting, depending, of course, on the transmission distance needed. A special version of the Ren-W board is available for those who want to try an external antenna, using XBee modules that have the SMA antenna connector. Because of the length of this connector, the board has been reengineered so that the XBee modules point downward:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::::[[File:Ren-w_sma.JPG|310px ]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:Other than the power difference and slightly larger physical size of the “pro” version, the modules are interchangeable, pin-for-pin identical, and the configuration settings are identical as well. &#039;&#039;&#039;However, consider that the “pro” version has 10x the transmitting power of its lower-powered sibling, and it has a more sensitive receiver, too. These two factors make it the XBee module of choice for the Ren-W.&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:It’s important to remember that Ren-W was created to be more of an extension to an existing, wired system than as a complete replacement of it. Wireless connections are never as secure as hard-wired connections are and periodically, data drop-outs can and likely will occur because wireless data transfer is inherently much more complex. But used in the right situations, Ren-W can be an effective solution to a wiring logistics problem.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Ren-C Note:&#039;&#039;&#039; When Ren-W is connected to a Ren-C&#039;s RS-IN jack, it is necessary to install a balun on the cable between the Ren-W and the Ren-C. The balun will reduce the EMI interference that the XBee module creates in the cat5 wire. Without the balun, the Ren-C will likely experience framing errors and no communication with the Ren-W. (Radio Shack part# 273-0069)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Additional Ren-W Links&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Renard Wireless Converter]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W BOM and Construction]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Configuration Concepts]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W XBee Radio Configuration]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Questions/Answers]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Troubleshooting]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Antenna Info]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Controller Heater]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8102 Ren-W Topic on the DIYC Forums]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Renard]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Ren-W]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Renard SS8]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Renard SS16]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Renard SS24]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Renard 24]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Renard 48LSD]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Renard 64XC]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Renard64]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Renard16 (xmus)]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:DIYC Index]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Dirknerkle</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=Renard_Wireless_Converter&amp;diff=10238</id>
		<title>Renard Wireless Converter</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=Renard_Wireless_Converter&amp;diff=10238"/>
		<updated>2013-05-24T19:58:09Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Dirknerkle: /* Why a Wireless Converter? */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;:[[File:Ren-w_complete.JPG|330px ]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;Why a Wireless Converter?&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:Sometimes it&#039;s not practical, affordable or maybe even possible to lay physical cable to a particular light controller. For example, trenching beneath your driveway to put a megatree on the other side is a messy, dirty and potentially expensive project. Or let&#039;s say you have a pond behind your house and you&#039;d like to put a display on the bank on the other side where there&#039;s already an electrical connection for a circulating fountain. Or maybe your neighbor across the street wants you to help him light his house -- trenching beneath a street or suspending cable above it would probably require multiple permits from your local municipality, if it were allowed at all. Maybe you&#039;ve built a new house and you don&#039;t want to leave a window open so all the cables can be routed through it to the outside. Or perhaps you live in an apartment building or rented condo where drilling a hole through the wall isn&#039;t even an option. These are just some examples of instances where a wireless connection to your outside Renard controller could very likely be the simplest and most affordable choice. That&#039;s why the Ren-W was invented.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::NOTES: In the years since this documentation was originally created, the physical Ren-W board has undergone a few revisions. Even so, the construction methodology hasn&#039;t changed and the concepts expressed in this WIKI continue to hold true. The antenna configurations of the XBee radios and the configuration setup of the XBee radios with XCTU software have not changed either, and the documents here should stand in good stead for a long time to come.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::It is highly suggested that instead of cherrypicking bits of information here and there, the reader should go through everything at least once to get a flavor for what wireless is all about. The Q&amp;amp;A and Troubleshooting sections solve most of the questions that users have had, and the section about antennas covers the various XBee antenna types quite thoroughly. Lastly, the Renard Start Address firmware is absolutely the right tool to accompany wireless operation. The Start Address guide is really a closely-knit companion piece to the Ren-W information.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;Overview&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:Ren-W is an inexpensive, compact (3”H x 2.5”W), easy-to-build and configure plug-in wireless adapter for Renard controllers and 595/Grinch systems that use Ren-C (see Ren-C note below). It can also be used with other Renard controllers with very slight modifications to the controllers to tap +5v power for the Ren-W. The Ren-W functions as a transparent serial connection between Renard controllers by converting RS-485 serial data into a digital stream, transmitting it wirelessly to another Ren-W where the digital stream is recombined into serial data and fed into the Renard controller’s normal RJ45 input jack (J2) via short cat5 cable, just like it would have been had the computer been hard-wired directly to the controller. In a typical Renard daisy chain design, channel data that a Renard controller can’t use is passed through and out the controller’s data-out RJ45 jack (J1) as RS-485 data, which is then fed back into the Ren-W, retransmitted to the next Ren-W that’s supposed to receive it, where the digital stream is recombined into serial data, etc. and the process is repeated for as many Ren-W adapters as are in the chain. The Ren-W uses inexpensive yet powerful XBee Pro wireless radio modules to perform the actual wireless transmission/reception functions. The cost to build a single Ren-W board varies from about $27 to $73, depending on the various electronic components chosen.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;DMX&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
:Ren-W is NOT compatible with DMX systems as DMX requires data speeds upwards of 250kbps. The XBee radio that Ren-W uses for wireless communication cannot support streaming data at that speed; it tops out at around 80kbps, which means that 57,600 baud is the highest communication speed Ren-W can support.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;Compatibility with various Renard Controllers&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:The Ren-W has been successfully tested with the following controllers:&lt;br /&gt;
:* WayneJ&#039;s Renard SS8, SS16 and SS24&lt;br /&gt;
:* Wjohn&#039;s Ren-C in either a Ren-C/Olsen 595 or Ren-C/Grinch setup&lt;br /&gt;
:* Wjohn&#039;s Ren64 ver XC5&lt;br /&gt;
:* Frank Kostyun&#039;s Ren24, versions 3.0 and 3.3, and the Ren24LV&lt;br /&gt;
:* Budude&#039;s Ren48LSD v3b&lt;br /&gt;
:* Renard Simple24 and Renard Simple32 by Mactayl and TStraub&lt;br /&gt;
:* CTMal&#039;s RenServo&lt;br /&gt;
:* Other Renard boards that use similar serial input/output circuitry should also work.&lt;br /&gt;
:* The following serial port parameters are highly suggested: Baud: 57600, Parity: Mark, Stop bits: 2&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;Renard basics and how they relate to Ren-W&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:In standard operation when multiple Renard SS controllers are daisy chained from one into the next, each controller uses the first X number of Vixen channels it receives where X is the number of channels the controller is designed to control. This is always a multiple of 8 because of the Renard program code and the PIC16F688 chips used in the SS controllers. The channels it can’t use are passed along to the next controller. Therefore, the order in which you chain one controller into the next can make a difference, and even more dramatically if the controllers have different channel counts. For example, if you had an SS8 and an SS24 (total 32 channels) and the first controller was the SS8 which daisy chained into the SS24, the SS8 will use the first 8 channels (1-8) and the SS24 would get the overflow channels 9-32. However, if the order was reversed and the SS24 was the first controller which daisy chained into the SS8, the SS24 will use the first 24 channels (1-24) and the SS8 would get the overflow channels 25-32.  The Ren-W simulates the daisy chain concept with “Point-to-point broadcasting” (PTP or Alternate PTP) because the Ren-W boards’ XBee radios are configured to provide exactly the same daisy chain logic, just as if you were connecting the controllers with cat5 cable to daisy chain one into the next, etc. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:To make two (or more) Renard controllers respond identically with the same Vixen commands, Vixen users usually replicate the Vixen channel information that controls one Renard to the corresponding channels that control the other Renards. However, what if you could use a “signal splitter” cable that distributed the same serial signal to multiple controllers, not unlike the concept of a “multi-outlet serial plug strip?” (Splitting an actual, stock serial signal to multiple devices without additional amplification is certainly possible but is generally a discouraged practice – the concept is used here for the illustration.) With such a splitter, each SS controller plugged into the “multi-outlet serial strip” would receive exactly the same channel information at the same time, just as if each was connected directly to the computer’s serial port. In the 32-channel example above however, since the SS8 has only 8 channels, it would be able to use only Vixen channels 1-8 while the SS24 would be able to use channels 1-24, &#039;&#039;and channels 25-32 would not be used by either controller.&#039;&#039; The “serial signal splitter” concept can be accomplished wirelessly quite easily; Ren-W refers to this as &#039;&#039;“Global Broadcasting.”&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:A version of Renard firmware is available that makes &amp;quot;global broadcasting&amp;quot; possible while still retaining individual channel control. The firmware is an ideal match for the Ren-W and uses a &amp;quot;start address&amp;quot; concept where you set the starting channel number for the controller(s). For more information read the configuration guide: [http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=Renard_Start_Address_Configuration_Guide Start Address Configuration Guide]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;XBee Wireless Radio Module Basics&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:XBee radio modules are essentially addressable wireless serial modems. Ren-W uses XBee radios as a “serial line replacement” to the normal cat5 wiring used to connect Renard controllers. XBees can communicate with one another on a one to one, one to many, or one to all &amp;quot;global broadcast&amp;quot; mode, depending on how each module is configured. The XBee’s configuration flexibility makes it possible to configure a Ren-W network so that multiple Renard controllers respond to the same channels or the network may be configured so that each controller has its own range of channels, which is more in keeping with normal Renard use. XBee radios are designed to accommodate streaming serial data up to 80kbps. Therefore, for best results, set your computer and Renard controllers at 57,600 baud; at 115,200 you may encounter erratic behavior.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;Ren-W Operating Modes&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;&#039;Receive only mode:&#039;&#039;&#039; only one XBee module is required, plugged into the XBee RX (right) side of the Ren-W board.&lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;&#039;Transmit only mode:&#039;&#039;&#039; only one XBee module is required, plugged into the XBee TX (left) side of the Ren-W board.&lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;&#039;Repeater mode:&#039;&#039;&#039; two XBee modules are needed, one for each side of the Ren-W board. One will receive, the other will retransmit the Vixen commands to the next Ren-W. This applies only to the SMA board, the only board that has space for two Xbee modules.&lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;&#039;E-mode repeater:&#039;&#039;&#039;  only one XBee module is needed to perform the repeater functions, plugged into the XBee TX (left) side of the Ren-W board. Because a single XBee module must perform receive/transmit sequentially instead of simultaneously, small periodic delays in propagating the Vixen commands to the next Ren-W unit may occur. Note also that E-mode requires the use of the alternate PTP configuration scheme, outlined below, as well as a jumper across JP5. Only the SMA board can operate in e-mode.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;Signal Propagation Delay&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:An XBee module can require up to 6ms to process received data; normally it&#039;s 2-3ms. While this is a very short period of time, consider that the delay is cumulative when multiple Ren-W nodes are configured in repeater mode. For example, in a Ren-W network of 5 nodes, the last SS controller could be nearly 30ms late in reacting to Vixen control commands. This may not be very perceptible in some situations but in others, it could become quite noticeable and the delay should be factored into the general design of a Ren-W network, and possibly during the light sequencing design as well. Note that in global broadcast mode, the delay is not cumulative as all receiving Ren-Ws receive the Vixen commands simultaneously and each unit would only be 2-3ms (or less) late. In actual testing, whatever delay may exist in global broadcast mode is virtually undetectable.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;Selecting the right XBee Modules - Which Do I Need?&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:XBee RF modules come in a standard and a &amp;quot;pro&amp;quot; version, and they operate in the 2.4ghz frequency spectrum. The modules do not interfere with wireless computer networks that also operate at 2.4ghz. The lower-powered standard version is said to have a line-of-sight transmission range upwards of 300 feet while the more powerful “pro” version is only ¼” larger and has a line-of-sight range upwards of a mile. In actual use, the distances are quite probably less than the stated specifications, especially considering the modules will likely be housed inside a protective non-metallic box of some kind. Mounting inside a metal box is not advised as it will severely hamper effective transmission distance.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:xbee_radio_modules.JPG|750px ]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:The antenna type on an XBee module can make a difference, too. (Be sure to read the pages about antennas!) The short, 1&amp;quot; wire antenna will provide better coverage than the flat, on-chip antenna. A version is also available with an antenna connector, presumably for a external directional antenna and even greater range potential. There is no significant price difference for the different antenna types and all are available for both the standard and pro versions. Suggestion: If using the Ren-W in normal repeater mode, consider using the lower powered, lesser expensive standard module for receiving and the more powerful pro module for transmitting, depending, of course, on the transmission distance needed. A special version of the Ren-W board is available for those who want to try an external antenna, using XBee modules that have the SMA antenna connector. Because of the length of this connector, the board has been reengineered so that the XBee modules point downward:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::::[[File:Ren-w_sma.JPG|310px ]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:Other than the power difference and slightly larger physical size of the “pro” version, the modules are interchangeable, pin-for-pin identical, and the configuration settings are identical as well. &#039;&#039;&#039;However, consider that the “pro” version has 10x the transmitting power of its lower-powered sibling, and it has a more sensitive receiver, too. These two factors make it the XBee module of choice for the Ren-W.&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:It’s important to remember that Ren-W was created to be more of an extension to an existing, wired system than as a complete replacement of it. Wireless connections are never as secure as hard-wired connections are and periodically, data drop-outs can and likely will occur because wireless data transfer is inherently much more complex. But used in the right situations, Ren-W can be an effective solution to a wiring logistics problem.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Ren-C Note:&#039;&#039;&#039; When Ren-W is connected to a Ren-C&#039;s RS-IN jack, it is necessary to install a balun on the cable between the Ren-W and the Ren-C. The balun will reduce the EMI interference that the XBee module creates in the cat5 wire. Without the balun, the Ren-C will likely experience framing errors and no communication with the Ren-W. (Radio Shack part# 273-0069)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Additional Ren-W Links&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Renard Wireless Converter]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W BOM and Construction]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Configuration Concepts]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W XBee Radio Configuration]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Questions/Answers]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Troubleshooting]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Antenna Info]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Controller Heater]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8102 Ren-W Topic on the DIYC Forums]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Renard]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Ren-W]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Renard SS8]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Renard SS16]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Renard SS24]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Renard 24]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Renard 48LSD]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Renard 64XC]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Renard64]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Renard16 (xmus)]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:DIYC Index]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Dirknerkle</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=Renard_Wireless_Converter&amp;diff=10237</id>
		<title>Renard Wireless Converter</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=Renard_Wireless_Converter&amp;diff=10237"/>
		<updated>2013-05-24T19:57:41Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Dirknerkle: /* Why a Wireless Converter? */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;:[[File:Ren-w_complete.JPG|330px ]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;Why a Wireless Converter?&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:Sometimes it&#039;s not practical, affordable or maybe even possible to lay physical cable to a particular light controller. For example, trenching beneath your driveway to put a megatree on the other side is a messy, dirty and potentially expensive project. Or let&#039;s say you have a pond behind your house and you&#039;d like to put a display on the bank on the other side where there&#039;s already an electrical connection for a circulating fountain. Or maybe your neighbor across the street wants you to help him light his house -- trenching beneath a street or suspending cable above it would probably require multiple permits from your local municipality, if it were allowed at all. Maybe you&#039;ve built a new house and you don&#039;t want to leave a window open so all the cables can be routed through it to the outside. Or perhaps you live in an apartment building or rented condo where drilling a hole through the wall isn&#039;t even an option. These are just some examples of instances where a wireless connection to your outside Renard controller could very likely be the simplest and most affordable choice. That&#039;s why the Ren-W was invented.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:NOTES: In the years since this documentation was originally created, the physical Ren-W board has undergone a few revisions. Even so, the construction methodology hasn&#039;t changed and the concepts expressed in this WIKI continue to hold true. The antenna configurations of the XBee radios and the configuration setup of the XBee radios with XCTU software have not changed either, and the documents here should stand in good stead for a long time to come.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:It is highly suggested that instead of cherrypicking bits of information here and there, the reader should go through everything at least once to get a flavor for what wireless is all about. The Q&amp;amp;A and Troubleshooting sections solve most of the questions that users have had, and the section about antennas covers the various XBee antenna types quite thoroughly. Lastly, the Renard Start Address firmware is absolutely the right tool to accompany wireless operation. The Start Address guide is really a closely-knit companion piece to the Ren-W information.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;Overview&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:Ren-W is an inexpensive, compact (3”H x 2.5”W), easy-to-build and configure plug-in wireless adapter for Renard controllers and 595/Grinch systems that use Ren-C (see Ren-C note below). It can also be used with other Renard controllers with very slight modifications to the controllers to tap +5v power for the Ren-W. The Ren-W functions as a transparent serial connection between Renard controllers by converting RS-485 serial data into a digital stream, transmitting it wirelessly to another Ren-W where the digital stream is recombined into serial data and fed into the Renard controller’s normal RJ45 input jack (J2) via short cat5 cable, just like it would have been had the computer been hard-wired directly to the controller. In a typical Renard daisy chain design, channel data that a Renard controller can’t use is passed through and out the controller’s data-out RJ45 jack (J1) as RS-485 data, which is then fed back into the Ren-W, retransmitted to the next Ren-W that’s supposed to receive it, where the digital stream is recombined into serial data, etc. and the process is repeated for as many Ren-W adapters as are in the chain. The Ren-W uses inexpensive yet powerful XBee Pro wireless radio modules to perform the actual wireless transmission/reception functions. The cost to build a single Ren-W board varies from about $27 to $73, depending on the various electronic components chosen.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;DMX&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
:Ren-W is NOT compatible with DMX systems as DMX requires data speeds upwards of 250kbps. The XBee radio that Ren-W uses for wireless communication cannot support streaming data at that speed; it tops out at around 80kbps, which means that 57,600 baud is the highest communication speed Ren-W can support.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;Compatibility with various Renard Controllers&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:The Ren-W has been successfully tested with the following controllers:&lt;br /&gt;
:* WayneJ&#039;s Renard SS8, SS16 and SS24&lt;br /&gt;
:* Wjohn&#039;s Ren-C in either a Ren-C/Olsen 595 or Ren-C/Grinch setup&lt;br /&gt;
:* Wjohn&#039;s Ren64 ver XC5&lt;br /&gt;
:* Frank Kostyun&#039;s Ren24, versions 3.0 and 3.3, and the Ren24LV&lt;br /&gt;
:* Budude&#039;s Ren48LSD v3b&lt;br /&gt;
:* Renard Simple24 and Renard Simple32 by Mactayl and TStraub&lt;br /&gt;
:* CTMal&#039;s RenServo&lt;br /&gt;
:* Other Renard boards that use similar serial input/output circuitry should also work.&lt;br /&gt;
:* The following serial port parameters are highly suggested: Baud: 57600, Parity: Mark, Stop bits: 2&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;Renard basics and how they relate to Ren-W&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:In standard operation when multiple Renard SS controllers are daisy chained from one into the next, each controller uses the first X number of Vixen channels it receives where X is the number of channels the controller is designed to control. This is always a multiple of 8 because of the Renard program code and the PIC16F688 chips used in the SS controllers. The channels it can’t use are passed along to the next controller. Therefore, the order in which you chain one controller into the next can make a difference, and even more dramatically if the controllers have different channel counts. For example, if you had an SS8 and an SS24 (total 32 channels) and the first controller was the SS8 which daisy chained into the SS24, the SS8 will use the first 8 channels (1-8) and the SS24 would get the overflow channels 9-32. However, if the order was reversed and the SS24 was the first controller which daisy chained into the SS8, the SS24 will use the first 24 channels (1-24) and the SS8 would get the overflow channels 25-32.  The Ren-W simulates the daisy chain concept with “Point-to-point broadcasting” (PTP or Alternate PTP) because the Ren-W boards’ XBee radios are configured to provide exactly the same daisy chain logic, just as if you were connecting the controllers with cat5 cable to daisy chain one into the next, etc. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:To make two (or more) Renard controllers respond identically with the same Vixen commands, Vixen users usually replicate the Vixen channel information that controls one Renard to the corresponding channels that control the other Renards. However, what if you could use a “signal splitter” cable that distributed the same serial signal to multiple controllers, not unlike the concept of a “multi-outlet serial plug strip?” (Splitting an actual, stock serial signal to multiple devices without additional amplification is certainly possible but is generally a discouraged practice – the concept is used here for the illustration.) With such a splitter, each SS controller plugged into the “multi-outlet serial strip” would receive exactly the same channel information at the same time, just as if each was connected directly to the computer’s serial port. In the 32-channel example above however, since the SS8 has only 8 channels, it would be able to use only Vixen channels 1-8 while the SS24 would be able to use channels 1-24, &#039;&#039;and channels 25-32 would not be used by either controller.&#039;&#039; The “serial signal splitter” concept can be accomplished wirelessly quite easily; Ren-W refers to this as &#039;&#039;“Global Broadcasting.”&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:A version of Renard firmware is available that makes &amp;quot;global broadcasting&amp;quot; possible while still retaining individual channel control. The firmware is an ideal match for the Ren-W and uses a &amp;quot;start address&amp;quot; concept where you set the starting channel number for the controller(s). For more information read the configuration guide: [http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=Renard_Start_Address_Configuration_Guide Start Address Configuration Guide]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;XBee Wireless Radio Module Basics&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:XBee radio modules are essentially addressable wireless serial modems. Ren-W uses XBee radios as a “serial line replacement” to the normal cat5 wiring used to connect Renard controllers. XBees can communicate with one another on a one to one, one to many, or one to all &amp;quot;global broadcast&amp;quot; mode, depending on how each module is configured. The XBee’s configuration flexibility makes it possible to configure a Ren-W network so that multiple Renard controllers respond to the same channels or the network may be configured so that each controller has its own range of channels, which is more in keeping with normal Renard use. XBee radios are designed to accommodate streaming serial data up to 80kbps. Therefore, for best results, set your computer and Renard controllers at 57,600 baud; at 115,200 you may encounter erratic behavior.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;Ren-W Operating Modes&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;&#039;Receive only mode:&#039;&#039;&#039; only one XBee module is required, plugged into the XBee RX (right) side of the Ren-W board.&lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;&#039;Transmit only mode:&#039;&#039;&#039; only one XBee module is required, plugged into the XBee TX (left) side of the Ren-W board.&lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;&#039;Repeater mode:&#039;&#039;&#039; two XBee modules are needed, one for each side of the Ren-W board. One will receive, the other will retransmit the Vixen commands to the next Ren-W. This applies only to the SMA board, the only board that has space for two Xbee modules.&lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;&#039;E-mode repeater:&#039;&#039;&#039;  only one XBee module is needed to perform the repeater functions, plugged into the XBee TX (left) side of the Ren-W board. Because a single XBee module must perform receive/transmit sequentially instead of simultaneously, small periodic delays in propagating the Vixen commands to the next Ren-W unit may occur. Note also that E-mode requires the use of the alternate PTP configuration scheme, outlined below, as well as a jumper across JP5. Only the SMA board can operate in e-mode.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;Signal Propagation Delay&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:An XBee module can require up to 6ms to process received data; normally it&#039;s 2-3ms. While this is a very short period of time, consider that the delay is cumulative when multiple Ren-W nodes are configured in repeater mode. For example, in a Ren-W network of 5 nodes, the last SS controller could be nearly 30ms late in reacting to Vixen control commands. This may not be very perceptible in some situations but in others, it could become quite noticeable and the delay should be factored into the general design of a Ren-W network, and possibly during the light sequencing design as well. Note that in global broadcast mode, the delay is not cumulative as all receiving Ren-Ws receive the Vixen commands simultaneously and each unit would only be 2-3ms (or less) late. In actual testing, whatever delay may exist in global broadcast mode is virtually undetectable.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;Selecting the right XBee Modules - Which Do I Need?&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:XBee RF modules come in a standard and a &amp;quot;pro&amp;quot; version, and they operate in the 2.4ghz frequency spectrum. The modules do not interfere with wireless computer networks that also operate at 2.4ghz. The lower-powered standard version is said to have a line-of-sight transmission range upwards of 300 feet while the more powerful “pro” version is only ¼” larger and has a line-of-sight range upwards of a mile. In actual use, the distances are quite probably less than the stated specifications, especially considering the modules will likely be housed inside a protective non-metallic box of some kind. Mounting inside a metal box is not advised as it will severely hamper effective transmission distance.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:xbee_radio_modules.JPG|750px ]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:The antenna type on an XBee module can make a difference, too. (Be sure to read the pages about antennas!) The short, 1&amp;quot; wire antenna will provide better coverage than the flat, on-chip antenna. A version is also available with an antenna connector, presumably for a external directional antenna and even greater range potential. There is no significant price difference for the different antenna types and all are available for both the standard and pro versions. Suggestion: If using the Ren-W in normal repeater mode, consider using the lower powered, lesser expensive standard module for receiving and the more powerful pro module for transmitting, depending, of course, on the transmission distance needed. A special version of the Ren-W board is available for those who want to try an external antenna, using XBee modules that have the SMA antenna connector. Because of the length of this connector, the board has been reengineered so that the XBee modules point downward:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::::[[File:Ren-w_sma.JPG|310px ]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:Other than the power difference and slightly larger physical size of the “pro” version, the modules are interchangeable, pin-for-pin identical, and the configuration settings are identical as well. &#039;&#039;&#039;However, consider that the “pro” version has 10x the transmitting power of its lower-powered sibling, and it has a more sensitive receiver, too. These two factors make it the XBee module of choice for the Ren-W.&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:It’s important to remember that Ren-W was created to be more of an extension to an existing, wired system than as a complete replacement of it. Wireless connections are never as secure as hard-wired connections are and periodically, data drop-outs can and likely will occur because wireless data transfer is inherently much more complex. But used in the right situations, Ren-W can be an effective solution to a wiring logistics problem.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Ren-C Note:&#039;&#039;&#039; When Ren-W is connected to a Ren-C&#039;s RS-IN jack, it is necessary to install a balun on the cable between the Ren-W and the Ren-C. The balun will reduce the EMI interference that the XBee module creates in the cat5 wire. Without the balun, the Ren-C will likely experience framing errors and no communication with the Ren-W. (Radio Shack part# 273-0069)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Additional Ren-W Links&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Renard Wireless Converter]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W BOM and Construction]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Configuration Concepts]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W XBee Radio Configuration]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Questions/Answers]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Troubleshooting]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Antenna Info]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Controller Heater]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8102 Ren-W Topic on the DIYC Forums]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Renard]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Ren-W]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Renard SS8]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Renard SS16]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Renard SS24]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Renard 24]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Renard 48LSD]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Renard 64XC]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Renard64]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Renard16 (xmus)]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:DIYC Index]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Dirknerkle</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=Ren-W_BOM_and_Construction&amp;diff=7502</id>
		<title>Ren-W BOM and Construction</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=Ren-W_BOM_and_Construction&amp;diff=7502"/>
		<updated>2012-10-13T03:40:21Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Dirknerkle: /* Construction Step-by-step - SMA and Rev-6 Boards */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;== &#039;&#039;&#039;Master Parts List (with Ren-W Part# and Mouser Part#)&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Qty --	Description (Ren-W Part)			&lt;br /&gt;
*1 or 2 -- RJ45 jacks, side or top entry (J1, J2)  Mouser# 571-5520251-4  (side entry)  571-5556416-1 (top entry)&lt;br /&gt;
*6 -- 2-pin vertical PCB headers    (JP1-JP6)	Mouser# 538-22-03-2021  (fewer may be necessary – see note below)&lt;br /&gt;
*5 -- 1 uf capacitors (non-polarized - C1, C2, C4, C5, C6)	Mouser# 810-FK24Y5V1H105Z   (Note: 1 uf 16v electrolytic capacitors may be substituted if you wish; polarity markings are provided on the board as a convenience if you use electrolytics.)&lt;br /&gt;
*1 -- 100uf, 16v electrolytic capacitor (C3)	Mouser# 647-UVR1C101MDD&lt;br /&gt;
*1 -- 3.3v 1w zener diode 		(D1)	Mouser# 583-1N4728A-B&lt;br /&gt;
*1 -- 33 ohm ¼w resistor 		(R1)	Mouser# 291-33-RC	(299-33-RC  1/8 watt is also okay)&lt;br /&gt;
*1 -- 1k ohm ¼w resistor (optional) 	(R2)	Mouser# 291-1K-RC	(299-1K-RC  1/8 watt is also okay)&lt;br /&gt;
*1 -- LED (any color – optional) 	(D2)	Mouser# 604-WP7104GT (green transparent)&lt;br /&gt;
*1 -- 16-pin DIP socket (optional)		Mouser# 571-1-390261-4&lt;br /&gt;
*1 -- 3.3v positive voltage regulator (U1)	Mouser# 595-UA78M33CKCSE3&lt;br /&gt;
*1 -- RS-232 Interface ICs Dual EIA-232 Driver	Mouser# 595-MAX232IN&lt;br /&gt;
*1 -- XBee Wireless RF modules	(Pro version w/1&amp;quot; whip antenna is Mouser# 888-XBP24-AWI-001. The SMA version is #888-XBP24-ASI-001)&lt;br /&gt;
*2 -- Female SL Connectors (optional)		Mouser# 538-16-02-0102&lt;br /&gt;
*1 -- Ren-W circuit board			(etch your own in the true DIYC spirit, or contact [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/member.php?3044-dirknerkle &#039;&#039;&#039;dirknerkle&#039;&#039;&#039;] for pre-made boards)&lt;br /&gt;
*2/4 --	2mm x 10-pin XBee female headers 	(H1-H4)	Mouser# M22-7131042 or also available from SparkFun Electronics as part# PRT-08272	($1 each)&lt;br /&gt;
*1 -- Ren-C users: Snap Choke Core Balun - Radio Shack part# 273-0069&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;SUBSTITUTE PARTS&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
* 3.3v voltage regulator: Texas Instruments part # UA78M33CKCS&lt;br /&gt;
* RS-232 chip: Mouser part #: 595-MAX232N&lt;br /&gt;
* RS-232 chip: Mouser part #: 595-MAX232EIN&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Rev6 board BOM Differences&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
::The Rev6 board needs only one RJ45 jack and only two XBee female headers. Otherwise, parts are the same.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;Links to BOM, PCB and SCHEMATIC files&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:* Here&#039;s a direct link to the complete Mouser BOM: [http://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=e1460aa043 Ren-W BOM]&lt;br /&gt;
:* Here&#039;s a direct link to the Express PCB source file for the STANDARD board: [http://diychristmas.org/dirknerkle/pcb/ren-w-master.pcb Ren-W STD PCB file]&lt;br /&gt;
:* Here&#039;s a direct link to the Express PCB source file for the SMA board: [http://diychristmas.org/dirknerkle/pcb/ren-w-master-SMA.pcb Ren-W SMA PCB file]&lt;br /&gt;
:* Here&#039;s a direct link to the Express PCB source file for the Rev6 board: [http://diychristmas.org/dirknerkle/pcb/ren-w-rev6.pcb Ren-W Rev6 PCB file]&lt;br /&gt;
:* Here&#039;s a direct link to the schematic for the Ren-W board: [http://diychristmas.org/dirknerkle/pcb/ren-w_schematic.jpg Ren-W_Schematic.JPG file]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:* Go to [http://www.expresspcb.com www.expresspcb.com] to download their free PCB software to open the PCB file.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;PCB Parts Layout&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
: The only important difference between the standard board and the SMA board is the orientation of the XBee modules. The standard board has the modules pointing upward; the SMA version has them pointing downward to allow for the long RPSMA antenna connector. Pay careful attention to the orientation of the XBee when plugging it into the board. If you have the standard board, plugging in an XBee module with an SMA connector upside-down will NOT WORK. Likewise, plugging in an XBee with a 1&amp;quot; whip the wrong way on an SMA board won&#039;t work, either. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
: The latest Rev6 version of the board has space for only one XBee module and uses a jumper to make the board be either a transmitter (TX) or receiver (RX). The Rev6 board cannot function as a repeater board as it has only one RJ45 jack, but it is about 30% smaller in size and has fewer parts so it&#039;s slightly less expensive to build.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_parts_location.JPG |600px]] [[File:Renwrev6.jpg |225px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;Construction Step-by-step - SMA and Rev-6 Boards&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;&#039;OVERALL CONCEPT:&#039;&#039;&#039; It is usually easist to assemble a circuit board using the &amp;quot;height&amp;quot; concept -- start with the parts that lay lowest or on the board itself, then the parts that stand taller and finishing with the tallest parts, installing them last.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_build-1.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
: The &#039;&#039;&#039;basic&#039;&#039;&#039; construction steps are identical for both the SMA and Rev6 versions of the board; the Rev6 board also uses the same part numbers. Obviously, the Rev6 has fewer parts, and where the parts don&#039;t exist, don&#039;t install them! Caution - the pins on the XBee female headers are quite tiny and require very little solder. Too much solder may flow down and fill the pin hole in the header itself and prevent plugging in the XBee later on.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:1.	Solder 2mm female headers at locations H1, H2, H3, H4 or: &lt;br /&gt;
:::	TX only: only H1, H2 are required&lt;br /&gt;
:::	RX only: only H3, H4 are required&lt;br /&gt;
:::	E-mode repeater: only H1, H2 are required.&lt;br /&gt;
:::	Normal repeater mode: all four headers required&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_build2.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:2.	Solder the 16-pin DIP socket into the MAX232 location. Note the position of pin 1; the notch faces to the right. If no socket is to be used, solder the MAX232 directly to the Ren-W board; verify the pin orientation before soldering.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_build3.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:3.	Solder capacitors C1 and C2. You may wish to straighten the leads to fit the holes better such as the example at the bottom of the picture. There are no polarity concerns for non-polarized capacitors. (Note: The polarity markings on the board are for the convenience of users who are using electrolytic capacitors instead of the non-polarized type.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_build4.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:4. Solder non-polarized capacitors C4, C5 and C6. Like C1 and C2, if electrolytic capacitors are used, observe the + polarity markings on the board. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_build5.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:5.	Solder electrolytic capacitor C3. Note the polarity: the + side into the square pad (top) closer to jack J2 which means the stripe on the capacitor faces DOWN.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_build6.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
:6.	Solder 2-pin headers JP1, JP2, JP3, JP4, JP5, JP6. (Note: JP1 and JP2 are optional.) The header pins are a tight fit; be careful as you wiggle them into their respective holes.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_build7.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:7.	Solder RJ45 jacks J1, J2&lt;br /&gt;
:::	TX only: only J1 is required&lt;br /&gt;
:::	RX only: only J2 is required&lt;br /&gt;
:::	Normal repeater and E-mode repeater: both J1 and J2 are required&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_build8.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:8.	Solder zener diode D1. Note the polarity – on the SMA board, the band on the diode must be facing up, next to header JP6. On the Rev6 board the band on the diode must be facing DOWN, next to header H2.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_build9.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:9.	Solder resistors R1 (orange-orange-black) and R2 (brown-black-red). R2 is only required if the optional power LED (D2) is used. No polarity concerns.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_build10.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:10.	Solder the optional power LED at position D2. Note the polarity – the flat side/cathode/shorter lead faces to the mounting hole immediately to the right of D2.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_build11.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:11.	Solder the 3.3v voltage regulator U1. On the SMA board the metal heat sink side faces toward JP2 (top); on the Rev6 board the metal heat sink side faces toward C3 (right). The need for an additional heat sink is highly unlikely as the supply voltage is only 5vdc. At this point, applying power to the SMA board should light the LED (if installed) and the voltage test points in the middle of the board should register the proper voltages. The Rev6 board requires that the XBee radio be in the sockets; the LED will then blink showing the XBee radio is operational. Disconnect power before continuing with the next step.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_complete.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:12.	Install the MAX232 and XBee module(s) in their respective sockets: use the XBee RX side for a receive-only board, the XBee TX side for a transmit-only board. Note the position of pin 1.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:13.	Install optional jumper shunt at JP6 if necessary. This bypasses the R1 resistor (33 ohms) and allows a weaker RS-485 signal through to the XBee radio in transmit mode. Normally, this jumper shunt is not necessary.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:14.    Install optional jumper shunt at JP5 if necessary. This makes the Ren-W into an E-Mode repeater where a single XBee module in the TX position serves as both the receiver and transmitter.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:15.  CAUTION: Never place jumper shunts across JP1 or JP2!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:16.  CAUTION: Never place jumper shunts across either pin of JP3 to either pin of JP4!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:17.  REV-6 board only: install 2-pin jumper headers at the TX and RX locations.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;Powering the Ren-W board&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:::::[[File:Ren-w_jumper-connector.JPG |200px]]   &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::* A nifty solution that retains the SS controller’s ability to use the diagnostic LEDs is to solder each end of a single strand of cat5 wire to an open jumper shunt such as the photo above. Alternately, you may wish to make your own power cable using two female SL connectors; use a small piece of shrink tubing around the connector for insulation safety. (Both pins on the Ren-W’s JP3 header are +5vdc; both JP4 pins are ground connections.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:::::[[File:Ren-w_mount3.JPG |500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::* With WayneJ&#039;s SS line of boards, the Ren-W draws its +5vdc power from the left pin of the board’s JP3 header (photo above); the ground power connection is made when the Ren-W is connected to either of the SS controller&#039;s RJ45 jacks. If you used the open jumper shunts to make your cable, simply plug the shunts into the JP3 headers on both the SS controller and the Ren-W.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:::::[[File:Ren24LV_5vdc.JPG |250px]] &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::* With Frank Kostyun&#039;s Ren24 ver 3.3, +5vdc can be taken at TP2 (test point 2). You may drill a small hole in the pad if you wish to solder-in a single pin header. With the Ren24LV (photo above) the red circles show places where 5vdc can be found: TP2 and the &amp;quot;Power Tie&amp;quot; (both circled in red in the above photo). The power tie includes six places for jumper header pins, the TOP LEFT of which carries +5vdc (red arrow) Remember, ground is made automatically when the cat5 cable is plugged in.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:::::[[File:Ren64_5vdc.JPG |450px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::* With Wjohn&#039;s Ren64 (version XC5) there is a small, unmarked +5vdc test point immediately below pin 8 of U5 (the rightmost ST485BN chip) and just left of R14. Solder-in a single header pin if you like such as the example above (red circle).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:::::[[File:Ren_c.JPG |450px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::* With Wjohn&#039;s Ren-C, +5vdc can be taken from the header pin immediately to the left of the Q1 transistor. The pin is marked VCC. Another +5vd VCC location is the 2nd from the top pin of the 6-pin JP6 programming header. Either location is fine. Both are marked with red arrows in the photo above.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::* With Budude&#039;s Ren48LSD, if you power the LSD board with 12vdc or less you can solder a single header pin into the test point that&#039;s next to the .1uf capacitor that resides between the voltage regulator and the 2200uf capacitor. The Ren-W&#039;s voltage regulator may get a bit warm but the MAX232 chip can handle 12vdc power and you should be okay. However, if you power the LSD board with more than 12vdc, you must tap power from the +5v side of one of the .1uf capacitors connected to pin 1 of any of the PIC16F688 chips. While not as handy as using the test point, it&#039;s a safer and more accurate way to power the Ren-W from the Ren48LSD.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;Connecting the Ren-W to a Renard SS Controller&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
	&lt;br /&gt;
:* Connect JP3 to JP3 on the SS to power the Ren-W (5vdc).&lt;br /&gt;
:* Ren-W as a transmit only node: connect only J1 to J1 on the SS. Leave J2 on the Ren-W unconnected.&lt;br /&gt;
:* Ren-W as a receive only node: connect only J2 to J2 on the SS. Leave J1 on the Ren-W unconnected.&lt;br /&gt;
:* Ren-W as a standard repeater: connect J1 to J1 and J2 to J2 on the SS. (A standard repeater has TWO XBee modules.)&lt;br /&gt;
:* Ren-W as an E-mode repeater: connect J1 to J1 and J2 to J2 on the SS, add a jumper on the Ren-W’s JP5 and make sure the Ren-W has only a single XBee module plugged into the TX (left) position. (An E-Mode repeater has only ONE XBee module.)&lt;br /&gt;
:* On the SS controller, you may find that the board functions better with JP1 not jumpered (RS-485 mode)but JP2 is jumpered. You can always try JP1 jumpered, but it may not be as effective.&lt;br /&gt;
:* If connecting to the RS-IN of a Ren-C, be sure to affix a snap choke core balun on the cat5 cable (Radio Shack part# 273-0069).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:* Rev6 board only: since this board has only one RJ45 jack (J2), it can be plugged into either the J1 or J2 jack on the Renard controller. If using the Rev6 as a receiver, place a jumper shunt on the RX header and connect J2 to the RS INPUT jack of the controller. If using the Rev6 as a transmitter, place a jumper shunt on the TX header and connect the Rev6&#039;s J2 to the RS OUTPUT jack of the controller. Note that the Rev6 board cannot be used as a &amp;quot;repeater&amp;quot; board which both receives and retransmits out. However, it can be used to transmit from a wired Renard controller to another Ren-W. Of course, a Rev6 can also be a main transmitter board at the PC as well. IMPORTANT: Rev-6 works best when JP2 (the termination resistor) on the SS board is open and not shunted.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;What are JP1, JP2 and JP6 used for?&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::JP1 is an optional RS-485 input connection. Because an XBee module can be programmed via serial communications using a simple AT commands from within a terminal program such as Windows Hyperterminal, these headers provide external access to the R1IN (pin 13, JP1) and T1OUT (pin 14, JP2) serial connections of the MAX232 chip, which in turn, communicates with the XBee module. Both data and ground are provided; ground is the right pin and is marked with G. Using the XCTU software and an XBee programmer board is vastly more convenient that manually configuring a module using AT commands but Digi provides ample documentation for AT command line programming. You can also measure the input voltage of the RS-485 signal at JP1; an acceptable range is +3.3 to +4.8 vdc. It is not expected that this voltage will exceed 5vdc. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::JP2 is an optional RS-232 output connection and can also be used to connect Ren-W to other serial devices. The output voltage is inverted and should be -5.0 to -5.5vdc, depending on the original input voltage.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:::::&#039;&#039;&#039;Caution: never place a shunt jumper across JP1 or JP2, or across either pin of JP3 to either pin of JP4.&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::JP6 is used to bypass the 33ohm resistor R1 which helps moderate the RS-485 serial signal’s current. The combination of R1 and zener diode D1 form a voltage/current protection circuit that limits the serial voltage to a maximum of 3.3 volts before it enters the XBee module’s DIN port. However, not all RS-485 serial signals are of the same voltage and if your serial signal is less than +3.3 volts, you may find that the integrity of transmitted data may increase by placing a shunt jumper on JP6 to bypass resistor R1. If the serial signal is +3.8 vdc or greater, you should leave JP6 open. The XBee module includes a modicum of internal protection and in testing, we found that an XBee can accommodate +5vdc at the input DIN for a short period of time (a few seconds), after which the XBee may stop responding and appear to “lock up.” Temporarily removing power to the board usually resets the XBee so that it will function again.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;Other Voltage Test Points&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::Almost in the exact center of the Ren-W board are three test points marked 5vdc, GND and 3vdc (actually 3.3v). While the actual voltages may vary slightly, the tested values should be very close to those figures. Our prototype measured 4.96v and 3.29v.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;Economy Ren-W Construction&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::If you know exactly how many receive-only and/or transmit-only boards you need and want to save some cash, you can economize by not populating the board with parts that will not be used. For example, below are pictures of stripped-down yet fully functional transmit-only (left) and receive-only (right) boards. Note the parts that are missing on each board. These examples also show the standard XBee radio, not the Pro version, which cuts cost even more, although the standard XBee is quite limited in transmission range. (Price comparison: the Standard Xbee is $19, XBee Pro is $32, XBee Pro with SMA connector is $34.):&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:::[[File:Ren-w_tx_only.JPG |350px]]  [[File:Ren-w_rx_only.JPG |350px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::&#039;&#039;&#039;Bottom line:&#039;&#039;&#039; a fully-populated Ren-W board totals about $43.38 for parts with the XBee Pro radio. If you don&#039;t need the extra power of the Pro version and opt for the standard XBee, you could build a transmit-only or receive-only board for about $26. Home-etch the boards yourself and you could have a fully-functional two-station system for about $50, and using the XBee Pro version would cost only $26 more for the pair. So if you&#039;re on the fence about wireless, you can see that it doesn&#039;t have to cost an arm-and-a-leg.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;Mounting a Ren-W and SS24 Controller in a CG2000 Enclosure&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:(click photos to enlarge)&lt;br /&gt;
:[[File:Ren-w_mount1.JPG |250px]] [[File:Ren-w_mount2.JPG |250px]]  [[File:Ren-w_mount4.JPG |250px]]  &lt;br /&gt;
Using side-entry RJ45s on the Ren-W and looping a cat5 cable from the Ren-W to the SS24, stress is minimized on all RJ45 connectors and the case can easily be fully opened. The Ren-W is mounted at the top of the case, to minimize magnetic interference from the SS24&#039;s transformer, and the SS24 is mounted diagonally in the CG2000 case to allow room for the antenna as well as a little additional distance from the triacs, another potential source of interference. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Additional Ren-W Links&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Renard Wireless Converter]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W BOM and Construction]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Configuration Concepts]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W XBee Radio Configuration]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Questions/Answers]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Troubleshooting]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Antenna Info]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Controller Heater]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8102 Ren-W Topic on the DIYC Forums]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Ren-W]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:DIYC Index]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Dirknerkle</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=Ren-W_Controller_Heater&amp;diff=7042</id>
		<title>Ren-W Controller Heater</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=Ren-W_Controller_Heater&amp;diff=7042"/>
		<updated>2012-07-02T01:24:03Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Dirknerkle: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;:In some very cold climates (well below 0 degrees F), you may encounter a problem whereby a controller may function fine above freezing, but when the temperature drops below freezing, or even below zero, the controller ceases to respond. The problem is that either the Ren-W cannot &amp;quot;lock in&amp;quot; and capture a signal, which of course creates a communication problem or the temperature is outside the manufacturer&#039;s specs for proper operation. For example, the XBee radio is rated to -40C, which is pretty cold. But the MAX232 chip that Ren-W uses comes in multiple kinds, and the operating temperature specifications can vary widely. If the MAX232 ceases to function, communication to the controller cannot occur.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:Likewise, it&#039;s possible that components on the controller itself may cease to function when the environment is outside the operating temperatures of the components. The chips that control RS-485 communication, the H11AA1 optocoupler, the 18.432mhz oscillator, or perhaps even a PIC might not like very cold temperatures.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:The solution is simple: install a small heater bulb inside the controller box. The steps below outline one solution that is proven to work. In these examples, the heater was added to a Renard SS24 that was mounted inside a CG2000 case.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;&#039;Parts and Tools Needed&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
::* Candelabra socket with a mounting bracket. Example: Servalite CS-10014-52U or CS-10014-5U. (Lowe&#039;s SKU# 75605 or SKU# 75602, about $2.50). This socket does not have any electrical connection to the mounting bracket.&lt;br /&gt;
::* 15watt, 120vac tubular light bulb with candelabra mount. Example: Feit electric # BP15T4C/2.  (Lowe&#039;s SKU# 111424, 2 for approx $4.00) These are quite small, about 2&amp;quot; long and 1/2 inch across.&lt;br /&gt;
::* Length of SPT-1 or SPT-2 cord - see below for the length you need.&lt;br /&gt;
::* A/C plug&lt;br /&gt;
::* Zip ties, possibly heat shrink tubing or wire nuts&lt;br /&gt;
::* 1/4-20 x 1/2&amp;quot; or similarly long screw, nut and 3 appropriately sized washers (Other screw sizes are okay such as 8-32 x 1/2&amp;quot;, just keep them short so they don&#039;t contact anything when the cover is closed.)&lt;br /&gt;
::* TOOLS: drill, screwdriver, pliers&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;&#039;Instructions&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
::&#039;&#039;&#039;Step 1&#039;&#039;&#039; - Flatten the bracket on the candelabra socket with a pliers. Leave it slightly bent so that when mounted, the bulb will be raised away from the case.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::::[[File:Heater-1.JPG | 350px]]  [[File:Heater-2.JPG | 350px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::&#039;&#039;&#039;Step 2&#039;&#039;&#039; - Position the bulb in such place so that the bulb will provide the most benefit to the most components, yet away from any wiring. You want the bulb to be in free air and not physically touching anything. Mark the drill hole.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::::[[File:Heater-3.JPG | 400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::&#039;&#039;&#039;Step 3&#039;&#039;&#039; - Drill a hole the appropriate size for the screw chosen. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::&#039;&#039;&#039;Step 4&#039;&#039;&#039; - Put a washer on the screw and insert the screw through the hole. Place another washer over the screw on the inside, then apply the candelabra bracket, followed by another washer and finally the nut. Tighten very snugly.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::::[[File:Heater-4.JPG | 350px]]   [[File:Heater-4b.JPG | 350px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::&#039;&#039;&#039;Step 5&#039;&#039;&#039; - Screw in the bulb, connect a piece of SPT-1 wire (without a plug attached) using either wire nuts or solder to the candelabra socket&#039;s leads, covering with shrink-wrap. The length of the wire you need is dependent on where you intend to plug the bulb into A/C power. In this example, an A/C pirate plug was attached to the connecting wire between the two 12-channels halves of the SS24 board. If you choose to plug the heater into an external plug outside the controller, then use a longer piece of SPT wire and fish it out of one of the holes in the bottom of the case. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::::[[File:Heater-5.JPG | 400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::&#039;&#039;&#039;Step 6&#039;&#039;&#039; - Apply the plug to the SPT wire, and plug it in.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::::[[File:Heater-6.JPG | 350px]]   [[File:Heater-7.JPG | 350px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;&#039;Other Helpful Ideas&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
::* Heat rises, of course, so you might consider placing the controller on a 45-degree angle to the ground. In this example, doing so would help flow heat up to the Ren-W mounted near the top of the case.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::* The candelabra base is also used for common 7watt night-lights, and you may find that these inexpensive lights are better for your installation. Of course, they&#039;re slighly larger (about 7/8&amp;quot; across) but their lower power may provide just enough heat. Night lights are also available in 4watt versions, too.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::* Additional benefit: the availability of 15watts of light at the controller has also proven quite handy in the event you need to service the controller and/or display at night, replug in cables, etc.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Additional Ren-W Links&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Renard Wireless Converter]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W BOM and Construction]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Configuration Concepts]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W XBee Radio Configuration]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Questions/Answers]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Troubleshooting]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Antenna Info]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Controller Heater]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8102 Ren-W Topic on the DIYC Forums]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Ren-W]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:DIYC Index]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Dirknerkle</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=Ren-W_Troubleshooting&amp;diff=7041</id>
		<title>Ren-W Troubleshooting</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=Ren-W_Troubleshooting&amp;diff=7041"/>
		<updated>2012-07-02T01:21:30Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Dirknerkle: /* RS-485 Patch for Ren-W as a Transmitter at the PC - Pre-version 20100622 only */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;The Ren-W circuit board is a very simple design but good soldering technique is still extremely important.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Voltage Measurements: three test points are just below pin 16 of the MAX232 chip/socket (circled in red):&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::::[[File:Ren-w-closeup.JPG |500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Construction Mistakes ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
: The Ren-W board was designed for home-etching and thus has very generous traces and solder pads. Be certain that the following components are mounted on the board properly:&lt;br /&gt;
::* The notch on the MAX232 chip faces to the right, toward the U1 voltage regulator.&lt;br /&gt;
::* The zener diode (D1) has the black stripe on the TOP, next to the JP6 header pins. On the Rev-6 board the diode stripe is on the BOTTOM.&lt;br /&gt;
::* The 3.3 voltage regulator (U1) has the metal tab facing up, toward the JP2 header pins. On the Rev-6 board, the metal tab faces to the right, toward the C3 capacitor.&lt;br /&gt;
::* The electrolytic capacitor (C3) has the - stripe facing DOWN toward the LED, which means the + side is up toward the J2 jack.&lt;br /&gt;
::* Capacitors C1, C2, C4, C5 and C6 are essential to the stability of the MAX232 chip, and C3 is needed to help smooth out the 5vdc power.&lt;br /&gt;
::* If using an electrolytic capacitor for C1, C2, C4, C5 or C6, be sure its polarity is correct.&lt;br /&gt;
::* The LED (D2) while not very clear in this photo, has the kathode (flat side) facing the mounting hole to its right. On the Rev-6 board, the flat side faces to the right, toward the U1 voltage regulator.&lt;br /&gt;
::* Resistor R1 (33 ohms) is immediately below the MAX232 chip. The resistor has no polarity concerns.&lt;br /&gt;
::* Resistor R2 (1k ohms) is immediately below the U1 voltage regulator. The resistor has no polarity concerns.&lt;br /&gt;
::* Be sure to observe the XBee module&#039;s orientation as printed on the board; remember that the standard board has the XBee pointing upward while the SMA board has the module pointing downward. If you have the standard board, DO NOT simply turn the module around to point downward for an XBee module with an SMA connector -- it will not work and you may damage the radio when power is applied!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:::::[[File:Ren-w_parts_location.JPG |500px]]   [[File:Renwrev6.jpg |200px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Soldering Mistakes ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::::[[File:Ren-w-copperB.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
:When you study the underside (copper) side of the circuit board, a few things become readily apparent:&lt;br /&gt;
::* Very few pins of the XBee radio modules are actually used; most are unused and serve only to hold the header sockets securely.&lt;br /&gt;
::* The solder pads for the XBee headers are very small; accurate and careful soldering is a must to prevent solder bridges. A solder bridge could easily prevent the XBee radio from functioning properly and could damage it. Note the elongated pads for the XBee headers, too. These provide home etch boards will a larger soldering surface.&lt;br /&gt;
::* Note that the cat5 jacks J1 and J2 include additional solder pads for pins that don&#039;t connect to anything. These are provided for home etch boards by providing additional soldering area and strength in holding the jacks to the board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Cabling Mistakes ==&lt;br /&gt;
::* The Ren-W does not need a special cable when connecting J1 or J2 to the Renard controller. A standard cat5 cable with standard pinouts should work fine. It&#039;s a good idea to keep this relatively short inside a controller box so that you don&#039;t end up with a coil of wire, which could affect transmission. Otherwise, the length of the cat5 cables connecting the Ren-W to the controller should be limited to 50 feet or less, the recommended maximum for RS-232 communications.&lt;br /&gt;
::* When connecting a Ren-W directly to a computer&#039;s -485 output to be a &amp;quot;transmit only&amp;quot; unit, remember that the Ren-W takes input only on pin 4 of J1 connector and ground is made on pins 1-2. You may need to make a special cable by connecting -485 to pin 4 before plugging it into J1 of the Ren-W. Ren-W does not use pin 5.&lt;br /&gt;
::* If the Ren-W locks up unexpectedly when connected to a PC in transmit only mode and only unplugging power temporarily restores operations, check the input voltage of the RS-485 line connecting into J1 of the Ren-W; it should be the -485 line.&lt;br /&gt;
::* The Rev-6 version of the Ren-W board requires that JP2 on an SS8, SS16 or SS24 sontroller be open and not shunted. This is because Rev-6 has only one RJ45 jack, and it uses a different physical connection point to the SS board. (JP2 is the termination resistor on an SS controller)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Interaction With other Wi-Fi Devices ==&lt;br /&gt;
::Xbee radios operate in the 2.4ghz frequency spectrum, the same spectrum as your wi-fi router or wireless access point. It is possible that you may encounter interaction between the two if the wi-fi device is in close proximity to a receiving XBee radio. The symptom is misfires or it may even appear to be randomly responsive. For example, a wireless laptop with a live, wireless connection could negatively influence the reception of a nearby controller with a Ren-W, or a wireless webcam placed near a remote controller with a Ren-W could easily influence that Ren-W&#039;s ability to discriminate the Xbee control signal if the webcam&#039;s transmission is too strong.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::Possible solution: Wireless routers, webcams, access points (etc.) usually have the option to use a &amp;quot;channel&amp;quot; as the primary communicating link. XBee radios also have a channel setting and depending on whether it&#039;s a regular Xbee or an XBPro, the channel options may differ. The default XBee channel is channel &amp;quot;C.&amp;quot; Try changing the XBee radios to a different channel and see if the conflicts go away. Note that the channel setting must be made on ALL XBees that are to communicate with one another.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Interaction with FM Radio Transmitter Antenna ==&lt;br /&gt;
::Even though normal broadcast FM is in the megahertz frequency range while XBee radios communicate in the gigahertz range, it&#039;s possible that when the XBee transmitting radio is very close to the FM transmitter&#039;s antenna, some interaction may occur causing either distortion in the FM radio signal or possibly some interference with the XBee if the FM transmitter is very powerful. It&#039;s probably best to keep them separated by a few feet if possible.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Using Common Sense ==&lt;br /&gt;
::* Ren-W&#039;s will communicate best when there is a direct line-of-sight between the transmitter and the receiver. It&#039;s just obvious common sense to place the transmitting antenna in such a place where it will have the fewest things between it and the receiving units. If your receiving Ren-Ws are in the front yard, then putting the transmitter in the back yard doesn&#039;t make a lot of sense and you&#039;ll likely encounter misfires because of it.&lt;br /&gt;
::* When you place your receiving unit/controller on the ground, or near your display, place it so that the antenna is closer to the transmitting antenna. If the antenna is inside the controller&#039;s case and in a corner, place the controller so that corner is the closest corner to the transmitting antenna. Just good common sense.&lt;br /&gt;
::* If your transmitting antenna is vertical, then when you position your controllers/receiving Ren-Ws, place them so that their antennae are parallel to the transmitter so as to maximize the reception of the radio waves. In some cases, the units may be so close to the transmitting antenna that it doesn&#039;t matter, and that&#039;s fine, but the further away you get, the more important it will be to minimize misfires.&lt;br /&gt;
::* If a receiving unit is quite distant or has many trees, bushes, swingsets or other things in the way, consider using putting an external antenna on the receiving unit. It will be vastly superior to using any of the XBee&#039;s built-in antennas and can greatly help reduce misfires. Again, it&#039;s common sense -- try to get the antennae so there are few impediments between them.&lt;br /&gt;
::* Understand that there will be misfires with Ren-W, but there will be fewer of them if you follow these common sense guidelines. Remember, the Renard protocol is asynchronous -- it sends out only and it doesn&#039;t look for any return confirmation that a packet that was sent was actually delivered. This is by design because if communication was poor, there would be a lot slower transfer of data to your controllers because of all the retries going on and your lights would always lag behind your music. Hence, Renard is asynchronous. So is Ren-W for the very same reason. Therefore, to minimize misfires, you need to do everything in your power to allow the best communication between the transmitter and the receivers as you possibly can.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Other Easy Mistakes ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::* Plugging the XBee module into the wrong side of the board for the kind of function the board is to do. Remember:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::::* A receive-ONLY Ren-W has the XBee mounted in the RX (right) side and no jumper is on JP5. The cat5 cable is plugged into J2 and into the J2 socket of the Renard SS controller (the controller&#039;s RS-232 IN port)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::::* A transmit-ONLY Ren-W has the XBee mounted in the TX (left) side and no jumper is on JP5. The cat5 cable is plugged into J1 and into the J1 socket of the Renard SS controller (the controller&#039;s RS-485 OUT port).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::::* An E-Mode Repeater has is exactly the same as a transmit-only board but JP5 is jumpered instead. Cat5 cables connect both jacks J1 and J2 to the Renard controller&#039;s RS-485 OUT and RS-232 IN ports respectively.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::* Connecting J1 to the Renard controller for a receive-only Ren-W won&#039;t work because a receive-only Ren-W uses J2 for the cat5.&lt;br /&gt;
::* Connecting J2 to the Renard controller for a transmit-only Ren-W won&#039;t work because a transmit-only Ren-W uses J1 for the cat5.&lt;br /&gt;
::* Misconfiguring the 16-bit address of an XBee module.&lt;br /&gt;
::* Misconfiguring the LOW address of an XBee module.&lt;br /&gt;
::* Setting the destination address of an XBee module to the wrong address. (This is a hard one to find!)&lt;br /&gt;
::* Setting one radio to transmit to a specific destination XBee but not having the destination XBee in the test.&lt;br /&gt;
::* Changing the PANID to the wrong value; remember, only radios with the same PANID can communcate with one another.&lt;br /&gt;
::* Forgetting to set the Renard controller to accept RS-232 data.&lt;br /&gt;
::* Mounting the Ren-W so the antenna is too close to a transformer or even a triac on the Renard controller can cause erratic transmission and/or reception behavior.&lt;br /&gt;
::* If using the Ren-W to transmit control commands to a Ren-C/595 or Ren-C/Grinch controller, be sure that the cat5 cable that goes from J2 of the Ren-W to the Rs-IN jack of the Ren-C has a choke core balun affixed to it (Radio Shack part# 273-0069). You might also coil the cat5 cable into 4 or 5 loops approx 5&amp;quot; across if the balun alone doesn&#039;t solve the problem. This will reduce the amount of EMI/RFI that the XBee radio produces, which the ren-C may mistakenly see as serial input and cause framing errors. It&#039;s also possible that the framing error LED on a Ren-C may light even though everything is functioning properly. This is likely due to some of the XBee&#039;s EMI getting through anyway and is probably not a critical issue.&lt;br /&gt;
::* Unplugging or plugging-in an XBee module while the Ren-W board is powered up. This can adversely affect and XBee module, and it&#039;s just good practice to remove power from it before unplugging anything.&lt;br /&gt;
::* Resetting an XBee module back to its default specs (an option in the XCTU software) but forgetting to reset the baud rate back to 57600 before putting it back in a Ren-W socket.&lt;br /&gt;
::* Using 57600, 8 bits, Mark parity and 2 stop bits for daisy-chained Ren-W/controllers. Use 57,600, 8, N, 1 instead.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== RS-485 Patch for Ren-W as a Transmitter at the PC - Pre-version 20100622 only ==&lt;br /&gt;
::NOTE: This patch applies ONLY to Ren-W boards prior to version 20100622, and it does not apply at all to the Rev-6 or Rev7 boards.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:A better and more secure transmitter can be made by using only the -485 signal and allowing the Max232 chip to invert it before sending it to the XBee. The patch has been well-tested and is very easy to make. You probably will need to make the change only to one Ren-W board if you plan to use it as a transmitter direct from your PC instead of using the XBee Explorer board. Here&#039;s how:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:::[[File:Ren-w-485patch.JPG | 400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:* Cut the bottom copper tracing in two places, shown as RED LINES in the picture.&lt;br /&gt;
:* Solder short jumper wires were indicated in BLUE LINES in the picture.&lt;br /&gt;
:* When done, the -485 line will be sent to the Max232 where it will be inverted and sent to the XBee&#039;s input via the zener diode, which will limit the voltage to 3.3v, the maximum prescribed for the XBee.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Transmission Test ==&lt;br /&gt;
: This procedure gives you a chance to see what the Renard data looks like to a controller and it serves ad a terrific way to test a transmitting Ren-W board as well as a receiving XBee module to make sure they&#039;re using the same communication parameters.&lt;br /&gt;
::* Set up a Ren-W in transmit only mode (XBee in the TX side, standard cat5 cable connecting from the RS-OUT jack of the Renard to the RS-IN jack of the Ren-W, Ren-W powered on.)&lt;br /&gt;
::* Plug your computer&#039;s serial output into the Renard controller&#039;s serial IN. Either RS-232 or RS-485 is fine. Just connect it to your computer&#039;s serial port as you would normally.&lt;br /&gt;
::* Use an USB XBee Explorer programmer board with an XBee radio plugged into it as the &amp;quot;receiver.&amp;quot; &lt;br /&gt;
::::* Plug the Explorer board into the computer&lt;br /&gt;
::::* Start up the XCTU software, connect to the XBee radio.&lt;br /&gt;
::::* Open the TERMINAL window, select the SHOW HEX button.&lt;br /&gt;
::::* Leave the screen open so you can view it.&lt;br /&gt;
::* Start up Vixen&lt;br /&gt;
::::* Define a new profile with twice as many channels as the Renard controller you&#039;re using. If it&#039;s an SS16, then create a 32-channel profile using the Renard Dimmer (modified) plugin. &lt;br /&gt;
::::* Open a new sequence and link it to the new profile you just created.&lt;br /&gt;
::::* Make Vixen&#039;s screen smaller so you can see both Vixen and the XCTU Terminal screen at the same time.&lt;br /&gt;
::::* Open Vixen&#039;s channel test feature. When it appears on the screen, your should see a block of HEX information pop into the XCTU screen&#039;s window. You&#039;ll see a 7E 80 sequence followed by as many pairs of zeros as half of your total channel count. If you have defined a 32 channel profile and are using an SS16, then you&#039;ll see sixteen pairs of zeros.&lt;br /&gt;
::::* On Vixen&#039;s channel test box, click the SELECT ALL button. You&#039;ll see the XCTU screen fill with another 7E 80 followed by pairs of FFs, representing &amp;quot;all on&amp;quot; for all the channels. Click the UNSELECT ALL button and the screen will return to zeros.&lt;br /&gt;
::::* Use the slider bar when the lights are &amp;quot;all on&amp;quot; and watch the XCTU screen fill with data. Each slider bar change sends a whole set of data for all channels. You&#039;ll be amazed how much data is processed, and how quickly, too.&lt;br /&gt;
::* You can play an actual sequence in this way, too, and watch all the data flow through to what the transmitting Ren-W board thinks is another Ren-W, but is actually just an XBee radio. You&#039;ll be able to see patterns emerge after a while.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Renard/XBee Timing Issue and Channels 57-64 ==&lt;br /&gt;
: An issue has been reported and reproduced on the Ren64 whereby at 57600 baud, channels 57-64 act inconsistently. They seem to work okay with the ALL CHANNEL test and appear to work okay with most blinky-type activity, but in slower testing, some channels may not come on at all. It&#039;s important to know that the problem is not with the Renard boards or the Renard firmware: the problem is that the XBee&#039;s communication speed is a bit fast and also that certain versions of the XBee firmware have a bug in the serial settings. Changing the firmware and XBee radio to operate at 38400 baud completely solves the problem. However, this also lowers the total number of channels that can be controlled on a single com port at that speed. Another solution is to use only channels 1-56 on the Ren64 controller and continue to operate at 57600, which effectively provides for up to 254 usable channels out of the suggested maximum 286 when sequencing at 50ms. &#039;&#039;&#039;Two additional solutions are available:&#039;&#039;&#039; one is a combination hardware/firmware modification on the Ren64; the second is a firmware modification on the XBee radio coupled with a changed Vixen settiong. Be sure to read BOTH solutions before you start hacking your board! First, the Hardware/Firmware modification of the Ren64 board:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;SOLUTION #1- Hardware/Firmware modification on the Ren64 board - (thanks to tweist!)&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
: Disconnect pin 5 of the U14 pic, and connect a jumper wire between pin5 and pin 1 of U5 (the rightmost ST485BN chip). Then reflash the firmware on the U14 pic with start address 4.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
: Here&#039;s a slick way to do it that won&#039;t compromise any traces on the Ren64 board:&lt;br /&gt;
::1. Bend pin 5 of a spare 14-pin DIP socket out to the side and piggyback it into the U14 socket. Solder a small wire onto the exposed pin 5.&lt;br /&gt;
::::[[File:Ren64-mod2.JPG | 500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::2. Drill a small hole next to U14 and fish the wire through it. There is ample room for the hole, but use caution nevertheless. A small piece of tape on either side of the piggybacked socket will keep it snug.&lt;br /&gt;
::::[[File:Ren64-mod1.JPG | 500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::3. Solder the wire to pin 1 of U5 on the bottom of the board.&lt;br /&gt;
::::[[File:Ren64-mod3.JPG | 200px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::4. Remember to flash the U14 pic with start address firmware set with start_addr 4.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;SOLUTION #2 - XBee Firmware Upgrade/Vixen 2 stop bits&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
: Unsolvable communication issues have been reported by users who have XBee radios that use XBee firmware version 10CD. It is possible that other versions also have a similar problem, but upgrading the XBee firmware to version 10E6 apparently solves the issue when you set the XBee firmware&#039;s parity setting to 3-MARK PARITY. The other setting change is to set your Renard plugin com settings to 57600, 8 data bits and 2 stop bits. However, one of the other issues is that XBee version 10CD is quite cantankerous and generally doesn&#039;t upgrade itself. Here&#039;s the solution to that:&lt;br /&gt;
:::* Be sure your XCTU software has version 10E6 available in the version box. XCTU has a button option to check for new versions on the Digi web site.&lt;br /&gt;
:::* Restore the XBee radio to the factory default settings by clicking the RESTORE button.&lt;br /&gt;
:::* Change your XTCU settings to the default 9600 baud, 8 data bits, no parity and 1 stop bit and load the XBee configuration. Verify that it has version 10CD. (If you don&#039;t have 10CD, you can use this procedure to update it to 10E6 anyway.)&lt;br /&gt;
:::* Check the box to &amp;quot;Always update firmware&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
:::* Choose version 10A5 in the version window. (Yes, you have to DOWNGRADE it first.)&lt;br /&gt;
:::* Click the WRITE button to write the changes, initialize the radio and reprogram it with 10A5 firmware.&lt;br /&gt;
:::* (Do the next two steps very quickly!) When done, uplug the XBee radio so it has no power.&lt;br /&gt;
:::* Re-plug in the XBee, open it again and read the settings.&lt;br /&gt;
:::* Make sure the &amp;quot;Always update firmware&amp;quot; box is checked.&lt;br /&gt;
:::* Choose version 10E6 in the version window.&lt;br /&gt;
:::* Click the WRITE button again.&lt;br /&gt;
:::* When finished, unplug the radio again to remove power, then plug it back in and read the settings again. You should see version 10E6 in the version box.&lt;br /&gt;
:::* Make the normal changes as already suggested (PanID, No-Acks, 57600 baud, packetization timeout 0).&lt;br /&gt;
:::* Change the PARITY setting to 3-MARK PARITY&lt;br /&gt;
:::* Write the settings to the radio.&lt;br /&gt;
:::* Make sure Vixen&#039;s com settings for the Renard plug-in is set to MARK parity and 2 stop bits also.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== What if I can&#039;t Figure It Out? ==&lt;br /&gt;
You can always send your Ren-W boards to Dirknerkle -- he&#039;ll be glad to check them out and fix whatever needs fixing. If you need to do this, just PM the dirk sometime for his address. Oh, and you&#039;ll want to send the XBee modules too, because he&#039;ll want to check everything out and test it. You&#039;ll get them back in perfect working order and his turnaround is super-fast.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Additional Ren-W Links&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Renard Wireless Converter]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W BOM and Construction]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Configuration Concepts]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W XBee Radio Configuration]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Questions/Answers]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Troubleshooting]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Antenna Info]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Controller Heater]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8102 Ren-W Topic on the DIYC Forums]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Ren-W]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:DIYC Index]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Dirknerkle</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=Ren-W_Troubleshooting&amp;diff=7040</id>
		<title>Ren-W Troubleshooting</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=Ren-W_Troubleshooting&amp;diff=7040"/>
		<updated>2012-07-02T01:20:12Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Dirknerkle: /* Construction Mistakes */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;The Ren-W circuit board is a very simple design but good soldering technique is still extremely important.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Voltage Measurements: three test points are just below pin 16 of the MAX232 chip/socket (circled in red):&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::::[[File:Ren-w-closeup.JPG |500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Construction Mistakes ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
: The Ren-W board was designed for home-etching and thus has very generous traces and solder pads. Be certain that the following components are mounted on the board properly:&lt;br /&gt;
::* The notch on the MAX232 chip faces to the right, toward the U1 voltage regulator.&lt;br /&gt;
::* The zener diode (D1) has the black stripe on the TOP, next to the JP6 header pins. On the Rev-6 board the diode stripe is on the BOTTOM.&lt;br /&gt;
::* The 3.3 voltage regulator (U1) has the metal tab facing up, toward the JP2 header pins. On the Rev-6 board, the metal tab faces to the right, toward the C3 capacitor.&lt;br /&gt;
::* The electrolytic capacitor (C3) has the - stripe facing DOWN toward the LED, which means the + side is up toward the J2 jack.&lt;br /&gt;
::* Capacitors C1, C2, C4, C5 and C6 are essential to the stability of the MAX232 chip, and C3 is needed to help smooth out the 5vdc power.&lt;br /&gt;
::* If using an electrolytic capacitor for C1, C2, C4, C5 or C6, be sure its polarity is correct.&lt;br /&gt;
::* The LED (D2) while not very clear in this photo, has the kathode (flat side) facing the mounting hole to its right. On the Rev-6 board, the flat side faces to the right, toward the U1 voltage regulator.&lt;br /&gt;
::* Resistor R1 (33 ohms) is immediately below the MAX232 chip. The resistor has no polarity concerns.&lt;br /&gt;
::* Resistor R2 (1k ohms) is immediately below the U1 voltage regulator. The resistor has no polarity concerns.&lt;br /&gt;
::* Be sure to observe the XBee module&#039;s orientation as printed on the board; remember that the standard board has the XBee pointing upward while the SMA board has the module pointing downward. If you have the standard board, DO NOT simply turn the module around to point downward for an XBee module with an SMA connector -- it will not work and you may damage the radio when power is applied!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:::::[[File:Ren-w_parts_location.JPG |500px]]   [[File:Renwrev6.jpg |200px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Soldering Mistakes ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::::[[File:Ren-w-copperB.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
:When you study the underside (copper) side of the circuit board, a few things become readily apparent:&lt;br /&gt;
::* Very few pins of the XBee radio modules are actually used; most are unused and serve only to hold the header sockets securely.&lt;br /&gt;
::* The solder pads for the XBee headers are very small; accurate and careful soldering is a must to prevent solder bridges. A solder bridge could easily prevent the XBee radio from functioning properly and could damage it. Note the elongated pads for the XBee headers, too. These provide home etch boards will a larger soldering surface.&lt;br /&gt;
::* Note that the cat5 jacks J1 and J2 include additional solder pads for pins that don&#039;t connect to anything. These are provided for home etch boards by providing additional soldering area and strength in holding the jacks to the board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Cabling Mistakes ==&lt;br /&gt;
::* The Ren-W does not need a special cable when connecting J1 or J2 to the Renard controller. A standard cat5 cable with standard pinouts should work fine. It&#039;s a good idea to keep this relatively short inside a controller box so that you don&#039;t end up with a coil of wire, which could affect transmission. Otherwise, the length of the cat5 cables connecting the Ren-W to the controller should be limited to 50 feet or less, the recommended maximum for RS-232 communications.&lt;br /&gt;
::* When connecting a Ren-W directly to a computer&#039;s -485 output to be a &amp;quot;transmit only&amp;quot; unit, remember that the Ren-W takes input only on pin 4 of J1 connector and ground is made on pins 1-2. You may need to make a special cable by connecting -485 to pin 4 before plugging it into J1 of the Ren-W. Ren-W does not use pin 5.&lt;br /&gt;
::* If the Ren-W locks up unexpectedly when connected to a PC in transmit only mode and only unplugging power temporarily restores operations, check the input voltage of the RS-485 line connecting into J1 of the Ren-W; it should be the -485 line.&lt;br /&gt;
::* The Rev-6 version of the Ren-W board requires that JP2 on an SS8, SS16 or SS24 sontroller be open and not shunted. This is because Rev-6 has only one RJ45 jack, and it uses a different physical connection point to the SS board. (JP2 is the termination resistor on an SS controller)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Interaction With other Wi-Fi Devices ==&lt;br /&gt;
::Xbee radios operate in the 2.4ghz frequency spectrum, the same spectrum as your wi-fi router or wireless access point. It is possible that you may encounter interaction between the two if the wi-fi device is in close proximity to a receiving XBee radio. The symptom is misfires or it may even appear to be randomly responsive. For example, a wireless laptop with a live, wireless connection could negatively influence the reception of a nearby controller with a Ren-W, or a wireless webcam placed near a remote controller with a Ren-W could easily influence that Ren-W&#039;s ability to discriminate the Xbee control signal if the webcam&#039;s transmission is too strong.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::Possible solution: Wireless routers, webcams, access points (etc.) usually have the option to use a &amp;quot;channel&amp;quot; as the primary communicating link. XBee radios also have a channel setting and depending on whether it&#039;s a regular Xbee or an XBPro, the channel options may differ. The default XBee channel is channel &amp;quot;C.&amp;quot; Try changing the XBee radios to a different channel and see if the conflicts go away. Note that the channel setting must be made on ALL XBees that are to communicate with one another.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Interaction with FM Radio Transmitter Antenna ==&lt;br /&gt;
::Even though normal broadcast FM is in the megahertz frequency range while XBee radios communicate in the gigahertz range, it&#039;s possible that when the XBee transmitting radio is very close to the FM transmitter&#039;s antenna, some interaction may occur causing either distortion in the FM radio signal or possibly some interference with the XBee if the FM transmitter is very powerful. It&#039;s probably best to keep them separated by a few feet if possible.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Using Common Sense ==&lt;br /&gt;
::* Ren-W&#039;s will communicate best when there is a direct line-of-sight between the transmitter and the receiver. It&#039;s just obvious common sense to place the transmitting antenna in such a place where it will have the fewest things between it and the receiving units. If your receiving Ren-Ws are in the front yard, then putting the transmitter in the back yard doesn&#039;t make a lot of sense and you&#039;ll likely encounter misfires because of it.&lt;br /&gt;
::* When you place your receiving unit/controller on the ground, or near your display, place it so that the antenna is closer to the transmitting antenna. If the antenna is inside the controller&#039;s case and in a corner, place the controller so that corner is the closest corner to the transmitting antenna. Just good common sense.&lt;br /&gt;
::* If your transmitting antenna is vertical, then when you position your controllers/receiving Ren-Ws, place them so that their antennae are parallel to the transmitter so as to maximize the reception of the radio waves. In some cases, the units may be so close to the transmitting antenna that it doesn&#039;t matter, and that&#039;s fine, but the further away you get, the more important it will be to minimize misfires.&lt;br /&gt;
::* If a receiving unit is quite distant or has many trees, bushes, swingsets or other things in the way, consider using putting an external antenna on the receiving unit. It will be vastly superior to using any of the XBee&#039;s built-in antennas and can greatly help reduce misfires. Again, it&#039;s common sense -- try to get the antennae so there are few impediments between them.&lt;br /&gt;
::* Understand that there will be misfires with Ren-W, but there will be fewer of them if you follow these common sense guidelines. Remember, the Renard protocol is asynchronous -- it sends out only and it doesn&#039;t look for any return confirmation that a packet that was sent was actually delivered. This is by design because if communication was poor, there would be a lot slower transfer of data to your controllers because of all the retries going on and your lights would always lag behind your music. Hence, Renard is asynchronous. So is Ren-W for the very same reason. Therefore, to minimize misfires, you need to do everything in your power to allow the best communication between the transmitter and the receivers as you possibly can.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Other Easy Mistakes ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::* Plugging the XBee module into the wrong side of the board for the kind of function the board is to do. Remember:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::::* A receive-ONLY Ren-W has the XBee mounted in the RX (right) side and no jumper is on JP5. The cat5 cable is plugged into J2 and into the J2 socket of the Renard SS controller (the controller&#039;s RS-232 IN port)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::::* A transmit-ONLY Ren-W has the XBee mounted in the TX (left) side and no jumper is on JP5. The cat5 cable is plugged into J1 and into the J1 socket of the Renard SS controller (the controller&#039;s RS-485 OUT port).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::::* An E-Mode Repeater has is exactly the same as a transmit-only board but JP5 is jumpered instead. Cat5 cables connect both jacks J1 and J2 to the Renard controller&#039;s RS-485 OUT and RS-232 IN ports respectively.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::* Connecting J1 to the Renard controller for a receive-only Ren-W won&#039;t work because a receive-only Ren-W uses J2 for the cat5.&lt;br /&gt;
::* Connecting J2 to the Renard controller for a transmit-only Ren-W won&#039;t work because a transmit-only Ren-W uses J1 for the cat5.&lt;br /&gt;
::* Misconfiguring the 16-bit address of an XBee module.&lt;br /&gt;
::* Misconfiguring the LOW address of an XBee module.&lt;br /&gt;
::* Setting the destination address of an XBee module to the wrong address. (This is a hard one to find!)&lt;br /&gt;
::* Setting one radio to transmit to a specific destination XBee but not having the destination XBee in the test.&lt;br /&gt;
::* Changing the PANID to the wrong value; remember, only radios with the same PANID can communcate with one another.&lt;br /&gt;
::* Forgetting to set the Renard controller to accept RS-232 data.&lt;br /&gt;
::* Mounting the Ren-W so the antenna is too close to a transformer or even a triac on the Renard controller can cause erratic transmission and/or reception behavior.&lt;br /&gt;
::* If using the Ren-W to transmit control commands to a Ren-C/595 or Ren-C/Grinch controller, be sure that the cat5 cable that goes from J2 of the Ren-W to the Rs-IN jack of the Ren-C has a choke core balun affixed to it (Radio Shack part# 273-0069). You might also coil the cat5 cable into 4 or 5 loops approx 5&amp;quot; across if the balun alone doesn&#039;t solve the problem. This will reduce the amount of EMI/RFI that the XBee radio produces, which the ren-C may mistakenly see as serial input and cause framing errors. It&#039;s also possible that the framing error LED on a Ren-C may light even though everything is functioning properly. This is likely due to some of the XBee&#039;s EMI getting through anyway and is probably not a critical issue.&lt;br /&gt;
::* Unplugging or plugging-in an XBee module while the Ren-W board is powered up. This can adversely affect and XBee module, and it&#039;s just good practice to remove power from it before unplugging anything.&lt;br /&gt;
::* Resetting an XBee module back to its default specs (an option in the XCTU software) but forgetting to reset the baud rate back to 57600 before putting it back in a Ren-W socket.&lt;br /&gt;
::* Using 57600, 8 bits, Mark parity and 2 stop bits for daisy-chained Ren-W/controllers. Use 57,600, 8, N, 1 instead.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== RS-485 Patch for Ren-W as a Transmitter at the PC - Pre-version 20100622 only ==&lt;br /&gt;
::NOTE: This patch applies ONLY to Ren-W boards prior to version 20100622, and it does not apply at all to the Rev-6 board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:A better and more secure transmitter can be made by using only the -485 signal and allowing the Max232 chip to invert it before sending it to the XBee. The patch has been well-tested and is very easy to make. You probably will need to make the change only to one Ren-W board if you plan to use it as a transmitter direct from your PC instead of using the XBee Explorer board. Here&#039;s how:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:::[[File:Ren-w-485patch.JPG | 400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:* Cut the bottom copper tracing in two places, shown as RED LINES in the picture.&lt;br /&gt;
:* Solder short jumper wires were indicated in BLUE LINES in the picture.&lt;br /&gt;
:* When done, the -485 line will be sent to the Max232 where it will be inverted and sent to the XBee&#039;s input via the zener diode, which will limit the voltage to 3.3v, the maximum prescribed for the XBee.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Transmission Test ==&lt;br /&gt;
: This procedure gives you a chance to see what the Renard data looks like to a controller and it serves ad a terrific way to test a transmitting Ren-W board as well as a receiving XBee module to make sure they&#039;re using the same communication parameters.&lt;br /&gt;
::* Set up a Ren-W in transmit only mode (XBee in the TX side, standard cat5 cable connecting from the RS-OUT jack of the Renard to the RS-IN jack of the Ren-W, Ren-W powered on.)&lt;br /&gt;
::* Plug your computer&#039;s serial output into the Renard controller&#039;s serial IN. Either RS-232 or RS-485 is fine. Just connect it to your computer&#039;s serial port as you would normally.&lt;br /&gt;
::* Use an USB XBee Explorer programmer board with an XBee radio plugged into it as the &amp;quot;receiver.&amp;quot; &lt;br /&gt;
::::* Plug the Explorer board into the computer&lt;br /&gt;
::::* Start up the XCTU software, connect to the XBee radio.&lt;br /&gt;
::::* Open the TERMINAL window, select the SHOW HEX button.&lt;br /&gt;
::::* Leave the screen open so you can view it.&lt;br /&gt;
::* Start up Vixen&lt;br /&gt;
::::* Define a new profile with twice as many channels as the Renard controller you&#039;re using. If it&#039;s an SS16, then create a 32-channel profile using the Renard Dimmer (modified) plugin. &lt;br /&gt;
::::* Open a new sequence and link it to the new profile you just created.&lt;br /&gt;
::::* Make Vixen&#039;s screen smaller so you can see both Vixen and the XCTU Terminal screen at the same time.&lt;br /&gt;
::::* Open Vixen&#039;s channel test feature. When it appears on the screen, your should see a block of HEX information pop into the XCTU screen&#039;s window. You&#039;ll see a 7E 80 sequence followed by as many pairs of zeros as half of your total channel count. If you have defined a 32 channel profile and are using an SS16, then you&#039;ll see sixteen pairs of zeros.&lt;br /&gt;
::::* On Vixen&#039;s channel test box, click the SELECT ALL button. You&#039;ll see the XCTU screen fill with another 7E 80 followed by pairs of FFs, representing &amp;quot;all on&amp;quot; for all the channels. Click the UNSELECT ALL button and the screen will return to zeros.&lt;br /&gt;
::::* Use the slider bar when the lights are &amp;quot;all on&amp;quot; and watch the XCTU screen fill with data. Each slider bar change sends a whole set of data for all channels. You&#039;ll be amazed how much data is processed, and how quickly, too.&lt;br /&gt;
::* You can play an actual sequence in this way, too, and watch all the data flow through to what the transmitting Ren-W board thinks is another Ren-W, but is actually just an XBee radio. You&#039;ll be able to see patterns emerge after a while.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Renard/XBee Timing Issue and Channels 57-64 ==&lt;br /&gt;
: An issue has been reported and reproduced on the Ren64 whereby at 57600 baud, channels 57-64 act inconsistently. They seem to work okay with the ALL CHANNEL test and appear to work okay with most blinky-type activity, but in slower testing, some channels may not come on at all. It&#039;s important to know that the problem is not with the Renard boards or the Renard firmware: the problem is that the XBee&#039;s communication speed is a bit fast and also that certain versions of the XBee firmware have a bug in the serial settings. Changing the firmware and XBee radio to operate at 38400 baud completely solves the problem. However, this also lowers the total number of channels that can be controlled on a single com port at that speed. Another solution is to use only channels 1-56 on the Ren64 controller and continue to operate at 57600, which effectively provides for up to 254 usable channels out of the suggested maximum 286 when sequencing at 50ms. &#039;&#039;&#039;Two additional solutions are available:&#039;&#039;&#039; one is a combination hardware/firmware modification on the Ren64; the second is a firmware modification on the XBee radio coupled with a changed Vixen settiong. Be sure to read BOTH solutions before you start hacking your board! First, the Hardware/Firmware modification of the Ren64 board:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;SOLUTION #1- Hardware/Firmware modification on the Ren64 board - (thanks to tweist!)&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
: Disconnect pin 5 of the U14 pic, and connect a jumper wire between pin5 and pin 1 of U5 (the rightmost ST485BN chip). Then reflash the firmware on the U14 pic with start address 4.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
: Here&#039;s a slick way to do it that won&#039;t compromise any traces on the Ren64 board:&lt;br /&gt;
::1. Bend pin 5 of a spare 14-pin DIP socket out to the side and piggyback it into the U14 socket. Solder a small wire onto the exposed pin 5.&lt;br /&gt;
::::[[File:Ren64-mod2.JPG | 500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::2. Drill a small hole next to U14 and fish the wire through it. There is ample room for the hole, but use caution nevertheless. A small piece of tape on either side of the piggybacked socket will keep it snug.&lt;br /&gt;
::::[[File:Ren64-mod1.JPG | 500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::3. Solder the wire to pin 1 of U5 on the bottom of the board.&lt;br /&gt;
::::[[File:Ren64-mod3.JPG | 200px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::4. Remember to flash the U14 pic with start address firmware set with start_addr 4.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;SOLUTION #2 - XBee Firmware Upgrade/Vixen 2 stop bits&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
: Unsolvable communication issues have been reported by users who have XBee radios that use XBee firmware version 10CD. It is possible that other versions also have a similar problem, but upgrading the XBee firmware to version 10E6 apparently solves the issue when you set the XBee firmware&#039;s parity setting to 3-MARK PARITY. The other setting change is to set your Renard plugin com settings to 57600, 8 data bits and 2 stop bits. However, one of the other issues is that XBee version 10CD is quite cantankerous and generally doesn&#039;t upgrade itself. Here&#039;s the solution to that:&lt;br /&gt;
:::* Be sure your XCTU software has version 10E6 available in the version box. XCTU has a button option to check for new versions on the Digi web site.&lt;br /&gt;
:::* Restore the XBee radio to the factory default settings by clicking the RESTORE button.&lt;br /&gt;
:::* Change your XTCU settings to the default 9600 baud, 8 data bits, no parity and 1 stop bit and load the XBee configuration. Verify that it has version 10CD. (If you don&#039;t have 10CD, you can use this procedure to update it to 10E6 anyway.)&lt;br /&gt;
:::* Check the box to &amp;quot;Always update firmware&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
:::* Choose version 10A5 in the version window. (Yes, you have to DOWNGRADE it first.)&lt;br /&gt;
:::* Click the WRITE button to write the changes, initialize the radio and reprogram it with 10A5 firmware.&lt;br /&gt;
:::* (Do the next two steps very quickly!) When done, uplug the XBee radio so it has no power.&lt;br /&gt;
:::* Re-plug in the XBee, open it again and read the settings.&lt;br /&gt;
:::* Make sure the &amp;quot;Always update firmware&amp;quot; box is checked.&lt;br /&gt;
:::* Choose version 10E6 in the version window.&lt;br /&gt;
:::* Click the WRITE button again.&lt;br /&gt;
:::* When finished, unplug the radio again to remove power, then plug it back in and read the settings again. You should see version 10E6 in the version box.&lt;br /&gt;
:::* Make the normal changes as already suggested (PanID, No-Acks, 57600 baud, packetization timeout 0).&lt;br /&gt;
:::* Change the PARITY setting to 3-MARK PARITY&lt;br /&gt;
:::* Write the settings to the radio.&lt;br /&gt;
:::* Make sure Vixen&#039;s com settings for the Renard plug-in is set to MARK parity and 2 stop bits also.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== What if I can&#039;t Figure It Out? ==&lt;br /&gt;
You can always send your Ren-W boards to Dirknerkle -- he&#039;ll be glad to check them out and fix whatever needs fixing. If you need to do this, just PM the dirk sometime for his address. Oh, and you&#039;ll want to send the XBee modules too, because he&#039;ll want to check everything out and test it. You&#039;ll get them back in perfect working order and his turnaround is super-fast.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Additional Ren-W Links&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Renard Wireless Converter]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W BOM and Construction]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Configuration Concepts]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W XBee Radio Configuration]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Questions/Answers]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Troubleshooting]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Antenna Info]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Controller Heater]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8102 Ren-W Topic on the DIYC Forums]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Ren-W]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:DIYC Index]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Dirknerkle</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=File:DirkCheapSSR_technical.pdf&amp;diff=7007</id>
		<title>File:DirkCheapSSR technical.pdf</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=File:DirkCheapSSR_technical.pdf&amp;diff=7007"/>
		<updated>2012-05-26T03:02:55Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Dirknerkle: uploaded a new version of &amp;quot;File:DirkCheapSSR technical.pdf&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;Assembly and Technical info on the DirkCheapSSR&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Dirknerkle</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=DirkCheapSSR&amp;diff=7006</id>
		<title>DirkCheapSSR</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=DirkCheapSSR&amp;diff=7006"/>
		<updated>2012-05-26T03:00:27Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Dirknerkle: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;&#039;&#039;&#039;What is it?&#039;&#039;&#039; The DirkCheapSSR is a very small, 4-channel SSR that has a maximum current capacity of 1 amp per channel. It is intended to be built directly into a display piece and is small enough to be built directly into the wiring and covered with shrink-tube. The original project arose in May 2012 and included a group buy. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Follow this link to download the PDF that explains all you need to know about it:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
http://doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/images/f/fe/DirkCheapSSR_technical.pdf&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Dirknerkle</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=DirkCheapSSR&amp;diff=7005</id>
		<title>DirkCheapSSR</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=DirkCheapSSR&amp;diff=7005"/>
		<updated>2012-05-26T03:00:14Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Dirknerkle: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;&#039;&#039;&#039;What is it?&#039;&#039;&#039; The DirkCheapSSR is a very small, 4-channel SSR that has a maximum current capacity of 1 amp per channel. It is intended to be built directly into a display piece and is small enough to be built directly into the wiring and covered with shrink-tube. The original project arose in May 2012 and included a group buy. Follow this link to download the PDF that explains all you need to know about it:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
http://doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/images/f/fe/DirkCheapSSR_technical.pdf&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Dirknerkle</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=DirkCheapSSR&amp;diff=7004</id>
		<title>DirkCheapSSR</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=DirkCheapSSR&amp;diff=7004"/>
		<updated>2012-05-26T02:59:51Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Dirknerkle: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;What it is: The DirkCheapSSR is a very small, 4-channel SSR that has a maximum current capacity of 1 amp per channel. It is intended to be built directly into a display piece and is small enough to be built directly into the wiring and covered with shrink-tube. The original project arose in May 2012 and included a group buy. Follow this link to download the PDF that explains all you need to know about it:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
http://doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/images/f/fe/DirkCheapSSR_technical.pdf&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Dirknerkle</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=DirkCheapSSR&amp;diff=7003</id>
		<title>DirkCheapSSR</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=DirkCheapSSR&amp;diff=7003"/>
		<updated>2012-05-26T02:56:47Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Dirknerkle: Created page with &amp;#039; Follow this link to download the PDF:  http://doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/images/f/fe/DirkCheapSSR_technical.pdf&amp;#039;&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Follow this link to download the PDF:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
http://doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/images/f/fe/DirkCheapSSR_technical.pdf&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Dirknerkle</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=File:DirkCheapSSR_technical.pdf&amp;diff=7002</id>
		<title>File:DirkCheapSSR technical.pdf</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=File:DirkCheapSSR_technical.pdf&amp;diff=7002"/>
		<updated>2012-05-26T02:55:52Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Dirknerkle: Assembly and Technical info on the DirkCheapSSR&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;Assembly and Technical info on the DirkCheapSSR&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Dirknerkle</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=Co-Op_Boards_and_Assembly_Instructions&amp;diff=7001</id>
		<title>Co-Op Boards and Assembly Instructions</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=Co-Op_Boards_and_Assembly_Instructions&amp;diff=7001"/>
		<updated>2012-05-26T02:53:01Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Dirknerkle: /* Other DIYC Boards */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;==Parallel Port Controllers==&lt;br /&gt;
:[[64 Channel Olsen 595 Controller Assembly Instructions]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:[[GRINCH Controller Assembly Instructions]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Renard Controllers==&lt;br /&gt;
:[[Ren4Flood]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:[[16 Channel Renard with SSRs]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:[[24 Channel Renard with SSR Assembly Instructions]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:[[Assembly Instructions The Renard SS8]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:[[Assembly Instructions The Renard SS16]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:[[Assembly Instructions The Renard SS24]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:[[Renard 64XC Construction]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:[[Ren48LSDv3c | Renard 48LSD]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:[[Simple_Renard_RGB%2BW| Simple Renard RGB+W]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Other DIYC Boards==&lt;br /&gt;
:[[FAST Finally Affordable Snowfall Tube]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:[[LedTriks Controller Assembly Instructions]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:[[Tricks-C Controller Assembly Instructions]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:[[4 Channel SSROZ Assembly Instructions | SSROZ]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:[[4 Channel DCSSR Assembly Instructions | DCSSR]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:[[DCSSR Version 2.4| DCSSR Version 2.4]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:[[SSRez]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:[[DirkCheapSSR]] - Low Current SSR for A/C&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:[[Ren-T PCB Assembly Instructions]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:[[REN-C PCB ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS | Ren-C PCB Assembly Instructions]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:[[Ren-W_BOM_and_Construction | Ren-W PCB Assembly Instructions]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:DIYC Controllers]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Beginners Info]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:General Info]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Renard SS8]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Renard SS16]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Renard SS24]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Renard 24]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Renard 48LSD]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Renard 64XC]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Renard64]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Renard16 (xmus)]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Ren-C]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Ren-T]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Ren-W]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:SSR]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:The Grinch]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Olsen 595]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Firegod and Helix]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:RPMs DMX Designs]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:DIYC Index]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Dirknerkle</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=Ren-W_BOM_and_Construction&amp;diff=6943</id>
		<title>Ren-W BOM and Construction</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=Ren-W_BOM_and_Construction&amp;diff=6943"/>
		<updated>2012-04-24T01:05:33Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Dirknerkle: /* LINKS TO BOM, PCB and SCHEMATIC FILES */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;== &#039;&#039;&#039;Master Parts List (with Ren-W Part# and Mouser Part#)&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Qty --	Description (Ren-W Part)			&lt;br /&gt;
*1 or 2 -- RJ45 jacks, side or top entry (J1, J2)  Mouser# 571-5520251-4  (side entry)  571-5556416-1 (top entry)&lt;br /&gt;
*6 -- 2-pin vertical PCB headers    (JP1-JP6)	Mouser# 538-22-03-2021  (fewer may be necessary – see note below)&lt;br /&gt;
*5 -- 1 uf capacitors (non-polarized - C1, C2, C4, C5, C6)	Mouser# 810-FK24Y5V1H105Z   (Note: 1 uf 16v electrolytic capacitors may be substituted if you wish; polarity markings are provided on the board as a convenience if you use electrolytics.)&lt;br /&gt;
*1 -- 100uf, 16v electrolytic capacitor (C3)	Mouser# 647-UVR1C101MDD&lt;br /&gt;
*1 -- 3.3v 1w zener diode 		(D1)	Mouser# 583-1N4728A-B&lt;br /&gt;
*1 -- 33 ohm ¼w resistor 		(R1)	Mouser# 291-33-RC	(299-33-RC  1/8 watt is also okay)&lt;br /&gt;
*1 -- 1k ohm ¼w resistor (optional) 	(R2)	Mouser# 291-1K-RC	(299-1K-RC  1/8 watt is also okay)&lt;br /&gt;
*1 -- LED (any color – optional) 	(D2)	Mouser# 604-WP7104GT (green transparent)&lt;br /&gt;
*1 -- 16-pin DIP socket (optional)		Mouser# 571-1-390261-4&lt;br /&gt;
*1 -- 3.3v positive voltage regulator (U1)	Mouser# 595-UA78M33CKCSE3&lt;br /&gt;
*1 -- RS-232 Interface ICs Dual EIA-232 Driver	Mouser# 595-MAX232IN&lt;br /&gt;
*1 -- XBee Wireless RF modules	(Pro version w/1&amp;quot; whip antenna is Mouser# 888-XBP24-AWI-001. The SMA version is #888-XBP24-ASI-001)&lt;br /&gt;
*2 -- Female SL Connectors (optional)		Mouser# 538-16-02-0102&lt;br /&gt;
*1 -- Ren-W circuit board			(etch your own in the true DIYC spirit, or contact [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/member.php?3044-dirknerkle &#039;&#039;&#039;dirknerkle&#039;&#039;&#039;] for pre-made boards)&lt;br /&gt;
*2/4 --	2mm x 10-pin XBee female headers 	(H1-H4)	Mouser# M22-7131042 or also available from SparkFun Electronics as part# PRT-08272	($1 each)&lt;br /&gt;
*1 -- Ren-C users: Snap Choke Core Balun - Radio Shack part# 273-0069&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;SUBSTITUTE PARTS&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
* 3.3v voltage regulator: Texas Instruments part # UA78M33CKCS&lt;br /&gt;
* RS-232 chip: Mouser part #: 595-MAX232N&lt;br /&gt;
* RS-232 chip: Mouser part #: 595-MAX232EIN&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Rev6 board BOM Differences&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
::The Rev6 board needs only one RJ45 jack and only two XBee female headers. Otherwise, parts are the same.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;Links to BOM, PCB and SCHEMATIC files&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:* Here&#039;s a direct link to the complete Mouser BOM: [http://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=e1460aa043 Ren-W BOM]&lt;br /&gt;
:* Here&#039;s a direct link to the Express PCB source file for the STANDARD board: [http://diychristmas.org/dirknerkle/pcb/ren-w-master.pcb Ren-W STD PCB file]&lt;br /&gt;
:* Here&#039;s a direct link to the Express PCB source file for the SMA board: [http://diychristmas.org/dirknerkle/pcb/ren-w-master-SMA.pcb Ren-W SMA PCB file]&lt;br /&gt;
:* Here&#039;s a direct link to the Express PCB source file for the Rev6 board: [http://diychristmas.org/dirknerkle/pcb/ren-w-rev6.pcb Ren-W Rev6 PCB file]&lt;br /&gt;
:* Here&#039;s a direct link to the schematic for the Ren-W board: [http://diychristmas.org/dirknerkle/pcb/ren-w_schematic.jpg Ren-W_Schematic.JPG file]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:* Go to [http://www.expresspcb.com www.expresspcb.com] to download their free PCB software to open the PCB file.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;PCB Parts Layout&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
: The only important difference between the standard board and the SMA board is the orientation of the XBee modules. The standard board has the modules pointing upward; the SMA version has them pointing downward to allow for the long RPSMA antenna connector. Pay careful attention to the orientation of the XBee when plugging it into the board. If you have the standard board, plugging in an XBee module with an SMA connector upside-down will NOT WORK. Likewise, plugging in an XBee with a 1&amp;quot; whip the wrong way on an SMA board won&#039;t work, either. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
: The latest Rev6 version of the board has space for only one XBee module and uses a jumper to make the board be either a transmitter (TX) or receiver (RX). The Rev6 board cannot function as a repeater board as it has only one RJ45 jack, but it is about 30% smaller in size and has fewer parts so it&#039;s slightly less expensive to build.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_parts_location.JPG |600px]] [[File:Renwrev6.jpg |225px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;Construction Step-by-step - SMA and Rev-6 Boards&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;&#039;OVERALL CONCEPT:&#039;&#039;&#039; It is usually easist to assemble a circuit board using the &amp;quot;height&amp;quot; concept -- start with the parts that lay lowest or on the board itself, then the parts that stand taller and finishing with the tallest parts, installing them last.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_build-1.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
: The &#039;&#039;&#039;basic&#039;&#039;&#039; construction steps are identical for both the SMA and Rev6 versions of the board; the Rev6 board also uses the same part numbers. Obviously, the Rev6 has fewer parts, and where the parts don&#039;t exist, don&#039;t install them! Caution - the pins on the XBee female headers are quite tiny and require very little solder. Too much solder may flow down and fill the pin hole in the header itself and prevent plugging in the XBee later on.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:1.	Solder 2mm female headers at locations H1, H2, H3, H4 or: &lt;br /&gt;
:::	TX only: only H1, H2 are required&lt;br /&gt;
:::	RX only: only H3, H4 are required&lt;br /&gt;
:::	E-mode repeater: only H1, H2 are required.&lt;br /&gt;
:::	Normal repeater mode: all four headers required&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_build2.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:2.	Solder the 16-pin DIP socket into the MAX232 location. Note the position of pin 1; the notch faces to the right. If no socket is to be used, solder the MAX232 directly to the Ren-W board; verify the pin orientation before soldering.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_build3.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:3.	Solder capacitors C1 and C2. You may wish to straighten the leads to fit the holes better such as the example at the bottom of the picture. There are no polarity concerns for non-polarized capacitors. (Note: The polarity markings on the board are for the convenience of users who are using electrolytic capacitors instead of the non-polarized type.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_build4.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:4. Solder non-polarized capacitors C4, C5 and C6. Like C1 and C2, if electrolytic capacitors are used, observe the + polarity markings on the board. (Note: C4, C5 and C6 do a lot to clean up the RS-232 signal the Ren-W provides to the Renard controller, and these are essential if connecting the Ren-W to a Ren-C/595 or Ren-C/Grinch. Early models of the Ren-W did not utilize C4, C5 and C6 but they are highly suggested to make the MAX232 chip run nice and stable.)&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_build5.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:5.	Solder electrolytic capacitor C3. Note the polarity: the + side into the square pad (top) closer to jack J2 which means the stripe on the capacitor faces DOWN.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_build6.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
:6.	Solder 2-pin headers JP1, JP2, JP3, JP4, JP5, JP6. (Note: JP1 and JP2 are optional.) The header pins are a tight fit; be careful as you wiggle them into their respective holes.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_build7.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:7.	Solder RJ45 jacks J1, J2&lt;br /&gt;
:::	TX only: only J1 is required&lt;br /&gt;
:::	RX only: only J2 is required&lt;br /&gt;
:::	Normal repeater and E-mode repeater: both J1 and J2 are required&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_build8.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:8.	Solder zener diode D1. Note the polarity – on the SMA board, the band on the diode must be facing up, next to header JP6. On the Rev6 board the band on the diode must be facing DOWN, next to header H2.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_build9.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:9.	Solder resistors R1 (orange-orange-black) and R2 (brown-black-red). R2 is only required if the optional power LED (D2) is used. No polarity concerns.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_build10.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:10.	Solder the optional power LED at position D2. Note the polarity – the flat side/cathode/shorter lead faces to the mounting hole immediately to the right of D2.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_build11.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:11.	Solder the 3.3v voltage regulator U1. On the SMA board the metal heat sink side faces toward JP2 (top); on the Rev6 board the metal heat sink side faces toward C3 (right). The need for an additional heat sink is highly unlikely as the supply voltage is only 5vdc. At this point, applying power to the SMA board should light the LED (if installed) and the voltage test points in the middle of the board should register the proper voltages. The Rev6 board requires that the XBee radio be in the sockets; the LED will then blink showing the XBee radio is operational. Disconnect power before continuing with the next step.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_complete.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:12.	Install the MAX232 and XBee module(s) in their respective sockets: use the XBee RX side for a receive-only board, the XBee TX side for a transmit-only board. Note the position of pin 1.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:13.	Install optional jumper shunt at JP6 if necessary. This bypasses the R1 resistor (33 ohms) and allows a weaker RS-485 signal through to the XBee radio in transmit mode. Normally, this jumper shunt is not necessary.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:14.    Install optional jumper shunt at JP5 if necessary. This makes the Ren-W into an E-Mode repeater where a single XBee module in the TX position serves as both the receiver and transmitter.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:15.  CAUTION: Never place jumper shunts across JP1 or JP2!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:16.  CAUTION: Never place jumper shunts across either pin of JP3 to either pin of JP4!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:17.  REV-6 board only: install 2-pin jumper headers at the TX and RX locations.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;Powering the Ren-W board&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:::::[[File:Ren-w_jumper-connector.JPG |200px]]   &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::* A nifty solution that retains the SS controller’s ability to use the diagnostic LEDs is to solder each end of a single strand of cat5 wire to an open jumper shunt such as the photo above. Alternately, you may wish to make your own power cable using two female SL connectors; use a small piece of shrink tubing around the connector for insulation safety. (Both pins on the Ren-W’s JP3 header are +5vdc; both JP4 pins are ground connections.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:::::[[File:Ren-w_mount3.JPG |500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::* With WayneJ&#039;s SS line of boards, the Ren-W draws its +5vdc power from the left pin of the board’s JP3 header (photo above); the ground power connection is made when the Ren-W is connected to either of the SS controller&#039;s RJ45 jacks. If you used the open jumper shunts to make your cable, simply plug the shunts into the JP3 headers on both the SS controller and the Ren-W.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:::::[[File:Ren24LV_5vdc.JPG |250px]] &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::* With Frank Kostyun&#039;s Ren24 ver 3.3, +5vdc can be taken at TP2 (test point 2). You may drill a small hole in the pad if you wish to solder-in a single pin header. With the Ren24LV (photo above) the red circles show places where 5vdc can be found: TP2 and the &amp;quot;Power Tie&amp;quot; (both circled in red in the above photo). The power tie includes six places for jumper header pins, the TOP LEFT of which carries +5vdc (red arrow) Remember, ground is made automatically when the cat5 cable is plugged in.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:::::[[File:Ren64_5vdc.JPG |450px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::* With Wjohn&#039;s Ren64 (version XC5) there is a small, unmarked +5vdc test point immediately below pin 8 of U5 (the rightmost ST485BN chip) and just left of R14. Solder-in a single header pin if you like such as the example above (red circle).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:::::[[File:Ren_c.JPG |450px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::* With Wjohn&#039;s Ren-C, +5vdc can be taken from the header pin immediately to the left of the Q1 transistor. The pin is marked VCC. Another +5vd VCC location is the 2nd from the top pin of the 6-pin JP6 programming header. Either location is fine. Both are marked with red arrows in the photo above.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::* With Budude&#039;s Ren48LSD, if you power the LSD board with 12vdc or less you can solder a single header pin into the test point that&#039;s next to the .1uf capacitor that resides between the voltage regulator and the 2200uf capacitor. The Ren-W&#039;s voltage regulator may get a bit warm but the MAX232 chip can handle 12vdc power and you should be okay. However, if you power the LSD board with more than 12vdc, you must tap power from the +5v side of one of the .1uf capacitors connected to pin 1 of any of the PIC16F688 chips. While not as handy as using the test point, it&#039;s a safer and more accurate way to power the Ren-W from the Ren48LSD.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;Connecting the Ren-W to a Renard SS Controller&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
	&lt;br /&gt;
:* Connect JP3 to JP3 on the SS to power the Ren-W (5vdc).&lt;br /&gt;
:* Ren-W as a transmit only node: connect only J1 to J1 on the SS. Leave J2 on the Ren-W unconnected.&lt;br /&gt;
:* Ren-W as a receive only node: connect only J2 to J2 on the SS. Leave J1 on the Ren-W unconnected.&lt;br /&gt;
:* Ren-W as a standard repeater: connect J1 to J1 and J2 to J2 on the SS. (A standard repeater has TWO XBee modules.)&lt;br /&gt;
:* Ren-W as an E-mode repeater: connect J1 to J1 and J2 to J2 on the SS, add a jumper on the Ren-W’s JP5 and make sure the Ren-W has only a single XBee module plugged into the TX (left) position. (An E-Mode repeater has only ONE XBee module.)&lt;br /&gt;
:* On the SS controller, you may find that the board functions better with JP1 not jumpered (RS-485 mode)but JP2 is jumpered. You can always try JP1 jumpered, but it may not be as effective.&lt;br /&gt;
:* If connecting to the RS-IN of a Ren-C, be sure to affix a snap choke core balun on the cat5 cable (Radio Shack part# 273-0069).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:* Rev6 board only: since this board has only one RJ45 jack (J2), it can be plugged into either the J1 or J2 jack on the Renard controller. If using the Rev6 as a receiver, place a jumper shunt on the RX header and connect J2 to the RS INPUT jack of the controller. If using the Rev6 as a transmitter, place a jumper shunt on the TX header and connect the Rev6&#039;s J2 to the RS OUTPUT jack of the controller. Note that the Rev6 board cannot be used as a &amp;quot;repeater&amp;quot; board which both receives and retransmits out. However, it can be used to transmit from a wired Renard controller to another Ren-W. Of course, a Rev6 can also be a main transmitter board at the PC as well. IMPORTANT: Rev-6 works best when JP2 (the termination resistor) on the SS board is open and not shunted.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;What are JP1, JP2 and JP6 used for?&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::JP1 is an optional RS-485 input connection. Because an XBee module can be programmed via serial communications using a simple AT commands from within a terminal program such as Windows Hyperterminal, these headers provide external access to the R1IN (pin 13, JP1) and T1OUT (pin 14, JP2) serial connections of the MAX232 chip, which in turn, communicates with the XBee module. Both data and ground are provided; ground is the right pin and is marked with G. Using the XCTU software and an XBee programmer board is vastly more convenient that manually configuring a module using AT commands but Digi provides ample documentation for AT command line programming. You can also measure the input voltage of the RS-485 signal at JP1; an acceptable range is +3.3 to +4.8 vdc. It is not expected that this voltage will exceed 5vdc. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::JP2 is an optional RS-232 output connection and can also be used to connect Ren-W to other serial devices. The output voltage is inverted and should be -5.0 to -5.5vdc, depending on the original input voltage.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:::::&#039;&#039;&#039;Caution: never place a shunt jumper across JP1 or JP2, or across either pin of JP3 to either pin of JP4.&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::JP6 is used to bypass the 33ohm resistor R1 which helps moderate the RS-485 serial signal’s current. The combination of R1 and zener diode D1 form a voltage/current protection circuit that limits the serial voltage to a maximum of 3.3 volts before it enters the XBee module’s DIN port. However, not all RS-485 serial signals are of the same voltage and if your serial signal is less than +3.3 volts, you may find that the integrity of transmitted data may increase by placing a shunt jumper on JP6 to bypass resistor R1. If the serial signal is +3.8 vdc or greater, you should leave JP6 open. The XBee module includes a modicum of internal protection and in testing, we found that an XBee can accommodate +5vdc at the input DIN for a short period of time (a few seconds), after which the XBee may stop responding and appear to “lock up.” Temporarily removing power to the board usually resets the XBee so that it will function again.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;Other Voltage Test Points&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::Almost in the exact center of the Ren-W board are three test points marked 5vdc, GND and 3vdc (actually 3.3v). While the actual voltages may vary slightly, the tested values should be very close to those figures. Our prototype measured 4.96v and 3.29v.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;Economy Ren-W Construction&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::If you know exactly how many receive-only and/or transmit-only boards you need and want to save some cash, you can economize by not populating the board with parts that will not be used. For example, below are pictures of stripped-down yet fully functional transmit-only (left) and receive-only (right) boards. Note the parts that are missing on each board. These examples also show the standard XBee radio, not the Pro version, which cuts cost even more, although the standard XBee is quite limited in transmission range. (Price comparison: the Standard Xbee is $19, XBee Pro is $32, XBee Pro with SMA connector is $34.):&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:::[[File:Ren-w_tx_only.JPG |350px]]  [[File:Ren-w_rx_only.JPG |350px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::&#039;&#039;&#039;Bottom line:&#039;&#039;&#039; a fully-populated Ren-W board totals about $43.38 for parts with the XBee Pro radio. If you don&#039;t need the extra power of the Pro version and opt for the standard XBee, you could build a transmit-only or receive-only board for about $26. Home-etch the boards yourself and you could have a fully-functional two-station system for about $50, and using the XBee Pro version would cost only $26 more for the pair. So if you&#039;re on the fence about wireless, you can see that it doesn&#039;t have to cost an arm-and-a-leg.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;Mounting a Ren-W and SS24 Controller in a CG2000 Enclosure&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:(click photos to enlarge)&lt;br /&gt;
:[[File:Ren-w_mount1.JPG |250px]] [[File:Ren-w_mount2.JPG |250px]]  [[File:Ren-w_mount4.JPG |250px]]  &lt;br /&gt;
Using side-entry RJ45s on the Ren-W and looping a cat5 cable from the Ren-W to the SS24, stress is minimized on all RJ45 connectors and the case can easily be fully opened. The Ren-W is mounted at the top of the case, to minimize magnetic interference from the SS24&#039;s transformer, and the SS24 is mounted diagonally in the CG2000 case to allow room for the antenna as well as a little additional distance from the triacs, another potential source of interference. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Additional Ren-W Links&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Renard Wireless Converter]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W BOM and Construction]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Configuration Concepts]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W XBee Radio Configuration]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Questions/Answers]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Troubleshooting]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Antenna Info]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Controller Heater]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8102 Ren-W Topic on the DIYC Forums]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Ren-W]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:DIYC Index]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Dirknerkle</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=Ren-W_BOM_and_Construction&amp;diff=6942</id>
		<title>Ren-W BOM and Construction</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=Ren-W_BOM_and_Construction&amp;diff=6942"/>
		<updated>2012-04-24T01:05:02Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Dirknerkle: /* Master Parts List (with Ren-W Part# and Mouser Part#) */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;== &#039;&#039;&#039;Master Parts List (with Ren-W Part# and Mouser Part#)&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Qty --	Description (Ren-W Part)			&lt;br /&gt;
*1 or 2 -- RJ45 jacks, side or top entry (J1, J2)  Mouser# 571-5520251-4  (side entry)  571-5556416-1 (top entry)&lt;br /&gt;
*6 -- 2-pin vertical PCB headers    (JP1-JP6)	Mouser# 538-22-03-2021  (fewer may be necessary – see note below)&lt;br /&gt;
*5 -- 1 uf capacitors (non-polarized - C1, C2, C4, C5, C6)	Mouser# 810-FK24Y5V1H105Z   (Note: 1 uf 16v electrolytic capacitors may be substituted if you wish; polarity markings are provided on the board as a convenience if you use electrolytics.)&lt;br /&gt;
*1 -- 100uf, 16v electrolytic capacitor (C3)	Mouser# 647-UVR1C101MDD&lt;br /&gt;
*1 -- 3.3v 1w zener diode 		(D1)	Mouser# 583-1N4728A-B&lt;br /&gt;
*1 -- 33 ohm ¼w resistor 		(R1)	Mouser# 291-33-RC	(299-33-RC  1/8 watt is also okay)&lt;br /&gt;
*1 -- 1k ohm ¼w resistor (optional) 	(R2)	Mouser# 291-1K-RC	(299-1K-RC  1/8 watt is also okay)&lt;br /&gt;
*1 -- LED (any color – optional) 	(D2)	Mouser# 604-WP7104GT (green transparent)&lt;br /&gt;
*1 -- 16-pin DIP socket (optional)		Mouser# 571-1-390261-4&lt;br /&gt;
*1 -- 3.3v positive voltage regulator (U1)	Mouser# 595-UA78M33CKCSE3&lt;br /&gt;
*1 -- RS-232 Interface ICs Dual EIA-232 Driver	Mouser# 595-MAX232IN&lt;br /&gt;
*1 -- XBee Wireless RF modules	(Pro version w/1&amp;quot; whip antenna is Mouser# 888-XBP24-AWI-001. The SMA version is #888-XBP24-ASI-001)&lt;br /&gt;
*2 -- Female SL Connectors (optional)		Mouser# 538-16-02-0102&lt;br /&gt;
*1 -- Ren-W circuit board			(etch your own in the true DIYC spirit, or contact [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/member.php?3044-dirknerkle &#039;&#039;&#039;dirknerkle&#039;&#039;&#039;] for pre-made boards)&lt;br /&gt;
*2/4 --	2mm x 10-pin XBee female headers 	(H1-H4)	Mouser# M22-7131042 or also available from SparkFun Electronics as part# PRT-08272	($1 each)&lt;br /&gt;
*1 -- Ren-C users: Snap Choke Core Balun - Radio Shack part# 273-0069&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;SUBSTITUTE PARTS&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
* 3.3v voltage regulator: Texas Instruments part # UA78M33CKCS&lt;br /&gt;
* RS-232 chip: Mouser part #: 595-MAX232N&lt;br /&gt;
* RS-232 chip: Mouser part #: 595-MAX232EIN&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Rev6 board BOM Differences&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
::The Rev6 board needs only one RJ45 jack and only two XBee female headers. Otherwise, parts are the same.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;LINKS TO BOM, PCB and SCHEMATIC FILES&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:* Here&#039;s a direct link to the complete Mouser BOM: [http://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=e1460aa043 Ren-W BOM]&lt;br /&gt;
:* Here&#039;s a direct link to the Express PCB source file for the STANDARD board: [http://diychristmas.org/dirknerkle/pcb/ren-w-master.pcb Ren-W STD PCB file]&lt;br /&gt;
:* Here&#039;s a direct link to the Express PCB source file for the SMA board: [http://diychristmas.org/dirknerkle/pcb/ren-w-master-SMA.pcb Ren-W SMA PCB file]&lt;br /&gt;
:* Here&#039;s a direct link to the Express PCB source file for the Rev6 board: [http://diychristmas.org/dirknerkle/pcb/ren-w-rev6.pcb Ren-W Rev6 PCB file]&lt;br /&gt;
:* Here&#039;s a direct link to the schematic for the Ren-W board: [http://diychristmas.org/dirknerkle/pcb/ren-w_schematic.jpg Ren-W_Schematic.JPG file]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:* Go to [http://www.expresspcb.com www.expresspcb.com] to download their free PCB software to open the PCB file.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;PCB Parts Layout&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
: The only important difference between the standard board and the SMA board is the orientation of the XBee modules. The standard board has the modules pointing upward; the SMA version has them pointing downward to allow for the long RPSMA antenna connector. Pay careful attention to the orientation of the XBee when plugging it into the board. If you have the standard board, plugging in an XBee module with an SMA connector upside-down will NOT WORK. Likewise, plugging in an XBee with a 1&amp;quot; whip the wrong way on an SMA board won&#039;t work, either. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
: The latest Rev6 version of the board has space for only one XBee module and uses a jumper to make the board be either a transmitter (TX) or receiver (RX). The Rev6 board cannot function as a repeater board as it has only one RJ45 jack, but it is about 30% smaller in size and has fewer parts so it&#039;s slightly less expensive to build.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_parts_location.JPG |600px]] [[File:Renwrev6.jpg |225px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;Construction Step-by-step - SMA and Rev-6 Boards&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;&#039;OVERALL CONCEPT:&#039;&#039;&#039; It is usually easist to assemble a circuit board using the &amp;quot;height&amp;quot; concept -- start with the parts that lay lowest or on the board itself, then the parts that stand taller and finishing with the tallest parts, installing them last.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_build-1.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
: The &#039;&#039;&#039;basic&#039;&#039;&#039; construction steps are identical for both the SMA and Rev6 versions of the board; the Rev6 board also uses the same part numbers. Obviously, the Rev6 has fewer parts, and where the parts don&#039;t exist, don&#039;t install them! Caution - the pins on the XBee female headers are quite tiny and require very little solder. Too much solder may flow down and fill the pin hole in the header itself and prevent plugging in the XBee later on.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:1.	Solder 2mm female headers at locations H1, H2, H3, H4 or: &lt;br /&gt;
:::	TX only: only H1, H2 are required&lt;br /&gt;
:::	RX only: only H3, H4 are required&lt;br /&gt;
:::	E-mode repeater: only H1, H2 are required.&lt;br /&gt;
:::	Normal repeater mode: all four headers required&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_build2.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:2.	Solder the 16-pin DIP socket into the MAX232 location. Note the position of pin 1; the notch faces to the right. If no socket is to be used, solder the MAX232 directly to the Ren-W board; verify the pin orientation before soldering.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_build3.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:3.	Solder capacitors C1 and C2. You may wish to straighten the leads to fit the holes better such as the example at the bottom of the picture. There are no polarity concerns for non-polarized capacitors. (Note: The polarity markings on the board are for the convenience of users who are using electrolytic capacitors instead of the non-polarized type.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_build4.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:4. Solder non-polarized capacitors C4, C5 and C6. Like C1 and C2, if electrolytic capacitors are used, observe the + polarity markings on the board. (Note: C4, C5 and C6 do a lot to clean up the RS-232 signal the Ren-W provides to the Renard controller, and these are essential if connecting the Ren-W to a Ren-C/595 or Ren-C/Grinch. Early models of the Ren-W did not utilize C4, C5 and C6 but they are highly suggested to make the MAX232 chip run nice and stable.)&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_build5.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:5.	Solder electrolytic capacitor C3. Note the polarity: the + side into the square pad (top) closer to jack J2 which means the stripe on the capacitor faces DOWN.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_build6.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
:6.	Solder 2-pin headers JP1, JP2, JP3, JP4, JP5, JP6. (Note: JP1 and JP2 are optional.) The header pins are a tight fit; be careful as you wiggle them into their respective holes.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_build7.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:7.	Solder RJ45 jacks J1, J2&lt;br /&gt;
:::	TX only: only J1 is required&lt;br /&gt;
:::	RX only: only J2 is required&lt;br /&gt;
:::	Normal repeater and E-mode repeater: both J1 and J2 are required&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_build8.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:8.	Solder zener diode D1. Note the polarity – on the SMA board, the band on the diode must be facing up, next to header JP6. On the Rev6 board the band on the diode must be facing DOWN, next to header H2.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_build9.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:9.	Solder resistors R1 (orange-orange-black) and R2 (brown-black-red). R2 is only required if the optional power LED (D2) is used. No polarity concerns.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_build10.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:10.	Solder the optional power LED at position D2. Note the polarity – the flat side/cathode/shorter lead faces to the mounting hole immediately to the right of D2.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_build11.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:11.	Solder the 3.3v voltage regulator U1. On the SMA board the metal heat sink side faces toward JP2 (top); on the Rev6 board the metal heat sink side faces toward C3 (right). The need for an additional heat sink is highly unlikely as the supply voltage is only 5vdc. At this point, applying power to the SMA board should light the LED (if installed) and the voltage test points in the middle of the board should register the proper voltages. The Rev6 board requires that the XBee radio be in the sockets; the LED will then blink showing the XBee radio is operational. Disconnect power before continuing with the next step.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_complete.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:12.	Install the MAX232 and XBee module(s) in their respective sockets: use the XBee RX side for a receive-only board, the XBee TX side for a transmit-only board. Note the position of pin 1.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:13.	Install optional jumper shunt at JP6 if necessary. This bypasses the R1 resistor (33 ohms) and allows a weaker RS-485 signal through to the XBee radio in transmit mode. Normally, this jumper shunt is not necessary.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:14.    Install optional jumper shunt at JP5 if necessary. This makes the Ren-W into an E-Mode repeater where a single XBee module in the TX position serves as both the receiver and transmitter.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:15.  CAUTION: Never place jumper shunts across JP1 or JP2!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:16.  CAUTION: Never place jumper shunts across either pin of JP3 to either pin of JP4!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:17.  REV-6 board only: install 2-pin jumper headers at the TX and RX locations.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;Powering the Ren-W board&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:::::[[File:Ren-w_jumper-connector.JPG |200px]]   &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::* A nifty solution that retains the SS controller’s ability to use the diagnostic LEDs is to solder each end of a single strand of cat5 wire to an open jumper shunt such as the photo above. Alternately, you may wish to make your own power cable using two female SL connectors; use a small piece of shrink tubing around the connector for insulation safety. (Both pins on the Ren-W’s JP3 header are +5vdc; both JP4 pins are ground connections.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:::::[[File:Ren-w_mount3.JPG |500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::* With WayneJ&#039;s SS line of boards, the Ren-W draws its +5vdc power from the left pin of the board’s JP3 header (photo above); the ground power connection is made when the Ren-W is connected to either of the SS controller&#039;s RJ45 jacks. If you used the open jumper shunts to make your cable, simply plug the shunts into the JP3 headers on both the SS controller and the Ren-W.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:::::[[File:Ren24LV_5vdc.JPG |250px]] &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::* With Frank Kostyun&#039;s Ren24 ver 3.3, +5vdc can be taken at TP2 (test point 2). You may drill a small hole in the pad if you wish to solder-in a single pin header. With the Ren24LV (photo above) the red circles show places where 5vdc can be found: TP2 and the &amp;quot;Power Tie&amp;quot; (both circled in red in the above photo). The power tie includes six places for jumper header pins, the TOP LEFT of which carries +5vdc (red arrow) Remember, ground is made automatically when the cat5 cable is plugged in.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:::::[[File:Ren64_5vdc.JPG |450px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::* With Wjohn&#039;s Ren64 (version XC5) there is a small, unmarked +5vdc test point immediately below pin 8 of U5 (the rightmost ST485BN chip) and just left of R14. Solder-in a single header pin if you like such as the example above (red circle).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:::::[[File:Ren_c.JPG |450px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::* With Wjohn&#039;s Ren-C, +5vdc can be taken from the header pin immediately to the left of the Q1 transistor. The pin is marked VCC. Another +5vd VCC location is the 2nd from the top pin of the 6-pin JP6 programming header. Either location is fine. Both are marked with red arrows in the photo above.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::* With Budude&#039;s Ren48LSD, if you power the LSD board with 12vdc or less you can solder a single header pin into the test point that&#039;s next to the .1uf capacitor that resides between the voltage regulator and the 2200uf capacitor. The Ren-W&#039;s voltage regulator may get a bit warm but the MAX232 chip can handle 12vdc power and you should be okay. However, if you power the LSD board with more than 12vdc, you must tap power from the +5v side of one of the .1uf capacitors connected to pin 1 of any of the PIC16F688 chips. While not as handy as using the test point, it&#039;s a safer and more accurate way to power the Ren-W from the Ren48LSD.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;Connecting the Ren-W to a Renard SS Controller&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
	&lt;br /&gt;
:* Connect JP3 to JP3 on the SS to power the Ren-W (5vdc).&lt;br /&gt;
:* Ren-W as a transmit only node: connect only J1 to J1 on the SS. Leave J2 on the Ren-W unconnected.&lt;br /&gt;
:* Ren-W as a receive only node: connect only J2 to J2 on the SS. Leave J1 on the Ren-W unconnected.&lt;br /&gt;
:* Ren-W as a standard repeater: connect J1 to J1 and J2 to J2 on the SS. (A standard repeater has TWO XBee modules.)&lt;br /&gt;
:* Ren-W as an E-mode repeater: connect J1 to J1 and J2 to J2 on the SS, add a jumper on the Ren-W’s JP5 and make sure the Ren-W has only a single XBee module plugged into the TX (left) position. (An E-Mode repeater has only ONE XBee module.)&lt;br /&gt;
:* On the SS controller, you may find that the board functions better with JP1 not jumpered (RS-485 mode)but JP2 is jumpered. You can always try JP1 jumpered, but it may not be as effective.&lt;br /&gt;
:* If connecting to the RS-IN of a Ren-C, be sure to affix a snap choke core balun on the cat5 cable (Radio Shack part# 273-0069).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:* Rev6 board only: since this board has only one RJ45 jack (J2), it can be plugged into either the J1 or J2 jack on the Renard controller. If using the Rev6 as a receiver, place a jumper shunt on the RX header and connect J2 to the RS INPUT jack of the controller. If using the Rev6 as a transmitter, place a jumper shunt on the TX header and connect the Rev6&#039;s J2 to the RS OUTPUT jack of the controller. Note that the Rev6 board cannot be used as a &amp;quot;repeater&amp;quot; board which both receives and retransmits out. However, it can be used to transmit from a wired Renard controller to another Ren-W. Of course, a Rev6 can also be a main transmitter board at the PC as well. IMPORTANT: Rev-6 works best when JP2 (the termination resistor) on the SS board is open and not shunted.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;What are JP1, JP2 and JP6 used for?&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::JP1 is an optional RS-485 input connection. Because an XBee module can be programmed via serial communications using a simple AT commands from within a terminal program such as Windows Hyperterminal, these headers provide external access to the R1IN (pin 13, JP1) and T1OUT (pin 14, JP2) serial connections of the MAX232 chip, which in turn, communicates with the XBee module. Both data and ground are provided; ground is the right pin and is marked with G. Using the XCTU software and an XBee programmer board is vastly more convenient that manually configuring a module using AT commands but Digi provides ample documentation for AT command line programming. You can also measure the input voltage of the RS-485 signal at JP1; an acceptable range is +3.3 to +4.8 vdc. It is not expected that this voltage will exceed 5vdc. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::JP2 is an optional RS-232 output connection and can also be used to connect Ren-W to other serial devices. The output voltage is inverted and should be -5.0 to -5.5vdc, depending on the original input voltage.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:::::&#039;&#039;&#039;Caution: never place a shunt jumper across JP1 or JP2, or across either pin of JP3 to either pin of JP4.&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::JP6 is used to bypass the 33ohm resistor R1 which helps moderate the RS-485 serial signal’s current. The combination of R1 and zener diode D1 form a voltage/current protection circuit that limits the serial voltage to a maximum of 3.3 volts before it enters the XBee module’s DIN port. However, not all RS-485 serial signals are of the same voltage and if your serial signal is less than +3.3 volts, you may find that the integrity of transmitted data may increase by placing a shunt jumper on JP6 to bypass resistor R1. If the serial signal is +3.8 vdc or greater, you should leave JP6 open. The XBee module includes a modicum of internal protection and in testing, we found that an XBee can accommodate +5vdc at the input DIN for a short period of time (a few seconds), after which the XBee may stop responding and appear to “lock up.” Temporarily removing power to the board usually resets the XBee so that it will function again.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;Other Voltage Test Points&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::Almost in the exact center of the Ren-W board are three test points marked 5vdc, GND and 3vdc (actually 3.3v). While the actual voltages may vary slightly, the tested values should be very close to those figures. Our prototype measured 4.96v and 3.29v.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;Economy Ren-W Construction&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::If you know exactly how many receive-only and/or transmit-only boards you need and want to save some cash, you can economize by not populating the board with parts that will not be used. For example, below are pictures of stripped-down yet fully functional transmit-only (left) and receive-only (right) boards. Note the parts that are missing on each board. These examples also show the standard XBee radio, not the Pro version, which cuts cost even more, although the standard XBee is quite limited in transmission range. (Price comparison: the Standard Xbee is $19, XBee Pro is $32, XBee Pro with SMA connector is $34.):&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:::[[File:Ren-w_tx_only.JPG |350px]]  [[File:Ren-w_rx_only.JPG |350px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::&#039;&#039;&#039;Bottom line:&#039;&#039;&#039; a fully-populated Ren-W board totals about $43.38 for parts with the XBee Pro radio. If you don&#039;t need the extra power of the Pro version and opt for the standard XBee, you could build a transmit-only or receive-only board for about $26. Home-etch the boards yourself and you could have a fully-functional two-station system for about $50, and using the XBee Pro version would cost only $26 more for the pair. So if you&#039;re on the fence about wireless, you can see that it doesn&#039;t have to cost an arm-and-a-leg.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;Mounting a Ren-W and SS24 Controller in a CG2000 Enclosure&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:(click photos to enlarge)&lt;br /&gt;
:[[File:Ren-w_mount1.JPG |250px]] [[File:Ren-w_mount2.JPG |250px]]  [[File:Ren-w_mount4.JPG |250px]]  &lt;br /&gt;
Using side-entry RJ45s on the Ren-W and looping a cat5 cable from the Ren-W to the SS24, stress is minimized on all RJ45 connectors and the case can easily be fully opened. The Ren-W is mounted at the top of the case, to minimize magnetic interference from the SS24&#039;s transformer, and the SS24 is mounted diagonally in the CG2000 case to allow room for the antenna as well as a little additional distance from the triacs, another potential source of interference. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Additional Ren-W Links&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Renard Wireless Converter]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W BOM and Construction]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Configuration Concepts]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W XBee Radio Configuration]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Questions/Answers]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Troubleshooting]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Antenna Info]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Controller Heater]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8102 Ren-W Topic on the DIYC Forums]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Ren-W]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:DIYC Index]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Dirknerkle</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=Ren-W_BOM_and_Construction&amp;diff=6941</id>
		<title>Ren-W BOM and Construction</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=Ren-W_BOM_and_Construction&amp;diff=6941"/>
		<updated>2012-04-24T01:04:31Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Dirknerkle: /* Master Parts List (with Ren-W Part# and Mouser Part#) */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;== &#039;&#039;&#039;Master Parts List (with Ren-W Part# and Mouser Part#)&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Qty --	Description (Ren-W Part)			&lt;br /&gt;
*1 or 2 -- RJ45 jacks, side or top entry (J1, J2)  Mouser# 571-5520251-4  (side entry)  571-5556416-1 (top entry)&lt;br /&gt;
*6 -- 2-pin vertical PCB headers    (JP1-JP6)	Mouser# 538-22-03-2021  (fewer may be necessary – see note below)&lt;br /&gt;
*5 -- 1 uf capacitors (non-polarized - C1, C2, C4, C5, C6)	Mouser# 810-FK24Y5V1H105Z   (Note: 1 uf 16v electrolytic capacitors may be substituted if you wish; polarity markings are provided on the board as a convenience if you use electrolytics.)&lt;br /&gt;
*1 -- 100uf, 16v electrolytic capacitor (C3)	Mouser# 647-UVR1C101MDD&lt;br /&gt;
*1 -- 3.3v 1w zener diode 		(D1)	Mouser# 583-1N4728A-B&lt;br /&gt;
*1 -- 33 ohm ¼w resistor 		(R1)	Mouser# 291-33-RC	(299-33-RC  1/8 watt is also okay)&lt;br /&gt;
*1 -- 1k ohm ¼w resistor (optional) 	(R2)	Mouser# 291-1K-RC	(299-1K-RC  1/8 watt is also okay)&lt;br /&gt;
*1 -- LED (any color – optional) 	(D2)	Mouser# 604-WP7104GT (green transparent)&lt;br /&gt;
*1 -- 16-pin DIP socket (optional)		Mouser# 571-1-390261-4&lt;br /&gt;
*1 -- 3.3v positive voltage regulator (U1)	Mouser# 595-UA78M33CKCSE3&lt;br /&gt;
*1 -- RS-232 Interface ICs Dual EIA-232 Driver	Mouser# 595-MAX232IN&lt;br /&gt;
*1 -- XBee Wireless RF modules	(Pro version w/1&amp;quot; whip antenna is Mouser# 888-XBP24-AWI-001. The SMA version is #888-XBP24-ASI-001)&lt;br /&gt;
*2 -- Female SL Connectors (optional)		Mouser# 538-16-02-0102&lt;br /&gt;
*1 -- Ren-W circuit board			(etch your own in the true DIYC spirit, or contact [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/member.php?3044-dirknerkle &#039;&#039;&#039;dirknerkle&#039;&#039;&#039;] for pre-made boards)&lt;br /&gt;
*2/4 --	2mm x 10-pin XBee female headers 	(H1-H4)	Mouser# M22-7131042 or also available from SparkFun Electronics as part# PRT-08272	($1 each)&lt;br /&gt;
*1 -- Ren-C users: Snap Choke Core Balun - Radio Shack part# 273-0069&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;SUBSTITUTE PARTS&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
* 3.3v voltage regulator: Texas Instruments part # UA78M33CKCS&lt;br /&gt;
* RS-232 chip: Mouser part #: 595-MAX232N&lt;br /&gt;
* RS-232 chip: Mouser part #: 595-MAX232EIN&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Rev6 board BOM Differences&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
::The Rev6 board needs only one RJ45 jack and only two XBee female headers. Otherwise, parts are the same.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;LINKS TO BOM, PCB and SCHEMATIC FILES&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:* Here&#039;s a direct link to the complete Mouser BOM: [http://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=e1460aa043 Ren-W BOM]&lt;br /&gt;
:* Here&#039;s a direct link to the Express PCB source file for the STANDARD board: [http://diychristmas.org/dirknerkle/pcb/ren-w-master.pcb Ren-W STD PCB file]&lt;br /&gt;
:* Here&#039;s a direct link to the Express PCB source file for the SMA board: [http://diychristmas.org/dirknerkle/pcb/ren-w-master-SMA.pcb Ren-W SMA PCB file]&lt;br /&gt;
:* Here&#039;s a direct link to the Express PCB source file for the Rev6 board: [http://diychristmas.org/dirknerkle/pcb/ren-w-rev6.pcb Ren-W Rev6 PCB file]&lt;br /&gt;
:* Here&#039;s a direct link to the schematic for the Ren-W board: [http://diychristmas.org/dirknerkle/pcb/ren-w_schematic.jpg Ren-W_Schematic.JPG file]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:* Go to [http://www.expresspcb.com www.expresspcb.com] to download their free PCB software to open the PCB file.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;PCB Parts Layout&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
: The only important difference between the standard board and the SMA board is the orientation of the XBee modules. The standard board has the modules pointing upward; the SMA version has them pointing downward to allow for the long RPSMA antenna connector. Pay careful attention to the orientation of the XBee when plugging it into the board. If you have the standard board, plugging in an XBee module with an SMA connector upside-down will NOT WORK. Likewise, plugging in an XBee with a 1&amp;quot; whip the wrong way on an SMA board won&#039;t work, either. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
: The latest Rev6 version of the board has space for only one XBee module and uses a jumper to make the board be either a transmitter (TX) or receiver (RX). The Rev6 board cannot function as a repeater board as it has only one RJ45 jack, but it is about 30% smaller in size and has fewer parts so it&#039;s slightly less expensive to build.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_parts_location.JPG |600px]] [[File:Renwrev6.jpg |225px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;Construction Step-by-step - SMA and Rev-6 Boards&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;&#039;OVERALL CONCEPT:&#039;&#039;&#039; It is usually easist to assemble a circuit board using the &amp;quot;height&amp;quot; concept -- start with the parts that lay lowest or on the board itself, then the parts that stand taller and finishing with the tallest parts, installing them last.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_build-1.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
: The &#039;&#039;&#039;basic&#039;&#039;&#039; construction steps are identical for both the SMA and Rev6 versions of the board; the Rev6 board also uses the same part numbers. Obviously, the Rev6 has fewer parts, and where the parts don&#039;t exist, don&#039;t install them! Caution - the pins on the XBee female headers are quite tiny and require very little solder. Too much solder may flow down and fill the pin hole in the header itself and prevent plugging in the XBee later on.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:1.	Solder 2mm female headers at locations H1, H2, H3, H4 or: &lt;br /&gt;
:::	TX only: only H1, H2 are required&lt;br /&gt;
:::	RX only: only H3, H4 are required&lt;br /&gt;
:::	E-mode repeater: only H1, H2 are required.&lt;br /&gt;
:::	Normal repeater mode: all four headers required&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_build2.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:2.	Solder the 16-pin DIP socket into the MAX232 location. Note the position of pin 1; the notch faces to the right. If no socket is to be used, solder the MAX232 directly to the Ren-W board; verify the pin orientation before soldering.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_build3.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:3.	Solder capacitors C1 and C2. You may wish to straighten the leads to fit the holes better such as the example at the bottom of the picture. There are no polarity concerns for non-polarized capacitors. (Note: The polarity markings on the board are for the convenience of users who are using electrolytic capacitors instead of the non-polarized type.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_build4.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:4. Solder non-polarized capacitors C4, C5 and C6. Like C1 and C2, if electrolytic capacitors are used, observe the + polarity markings on the board. (Note: C4, C5 and C6 do a lot to clean up the RS-232 signal the Ren-W provides to the Renard controller, and these are essential if connecting the Ren-W to a Ren-C/595 or Ren-C/Grinch. Early models of the Ren-W did not utilize C4, C5 and C6 but they are highly suggested to make the MAX232 chip run nice and stable.)&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_build5.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:5.	Solder electrolytic capacitor C3. Note the polarity: the + side into the square pad (top) closer to jack J2 which means the stripe on the capacitor faces DOWN.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_build6.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
:6.	Solder 2-pin headers JP1, JP2, JP3, JP4, JP5, JP6. (Note: JP1 and JP2 are optional.) The header pins are a tight fit; be careful as you wiggle them into their respective holes.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_build7.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:7.	Solder RJ45 jacks J1, J2&lt;br /&gt;
:::	TX only: only J1 is required&lt;br /&gt;
:::	RX only: only J2 is required&lt;br /&gt;
:::	Normal repeater and E-mode repeater: both J1 and J2 are required&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_build8.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:8.	Solder zener diode D1. Note the polarity – on the SMA board, the band on the diode must be facing up, next to header JP6. On the Rev6 board the band on the diode must be facing DOWN, next to header H2.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_build9.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:9.	Solder resistors R1 (orange-orange-black) and R2 (brown-black-red). R2 is only required if the optional power LED (D2) is used. No polarity concerns.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_build10.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:10.	Solder the optional power LED at position D2. Note the polarity – the flat side/cathode/shorter lead faces to the mounting hole immediately to the right of D2.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_build11.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:11.	Solder the 3.3v voltage regulator U1. On the SMA board the metal heat sink side faces toward JP2 (top); on the Rev6 board the metal heat sink side faces toward C3 (right). The need for an additional heat sink is highly unlikely as the supply voltage is only 5vdc. At this point, applying power to the SMA board should light the LED (if installed) and the voltage test points in the middle of the board should register the proper voltages. The Rev6 board requires that the XBee radio be in the sockets; the LED will then blink showing the XBee radio is operational. Disconnect power before continuing with the next step.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_complete.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:12.	Install the MAX232 and XBee module(s) in their respective sockets: use the XBee RX side for a receive-only board, the XBee TX side for a transmit-only board. Note the position of pin 1.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:13.	Install optional jumper shunt at JP6 if necessary. This bypasses the R1 resistor (33 ohms) and allows a weaker RS-485 signal through to the XBee radio in transmit mode. Normally, this jumper shunt is not necessary.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:14.    Install optional jumper shunt at JP5 if necessary. This makes the Ren-W into an E-Mode repeater where a single XBee module in the TX position serves as both the receiver and transmitter.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:15.  CAUTION: Never place jumper shunts across JP1 or JP2!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:16.  CAUTION: Never place jumper shunts across either pin of JP3 to either pin of JP4!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:17.  REV-6 board only: install 2-pin jumper headers at the TX and RX locations.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;Powering the Ren-W board&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:::::[[File:Ren-w_jumper-connector.JPG |200px]]   &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::* A nifty solution that retains the SS controller’s ability to use the diagnostic LEDs is to solder each end of a single strand of cat5 wire to an open jumper shunt such as the photo above. Alternately, you may wish to make your own power cable using two female SL connectors; use a small piece of shrink tubing around the connector for insulation safety. (Both pins on the Ren-W’s JP3 header are +5vdc; both JP4 pins are ground connections.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:::::[[File:Ren-w_mount3.JPG |500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::* With WayneJ&#039;s SS line of boards, the Ren-W draws its +5vdc power from the left pin of the board’s JP3 header (photo above); the ground power connection is made when the Ren-W is connected to either of the SS controller&#039;s RJ45 jacks. If you used the open jumper shunts to make your cable, simply plug the shunts into the JP3 headers on both the SS controller and the Ren-W.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:::::[[File:Ren24LV_5vdc.JPG |250px]] &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::* With Frank Kostyun&#039;s Ren24 ver 3.3, +5vdc can be taken at TP2 (test point 2). You may drill a small hole in the pad if you wish to solder-in a single pin header. With the Ren24LV (photo above) the red circles show places where 5vdc can be found: TP2 and the &amp;quot;Power Tie&amp;quot; (both circled in red in the above photo). The power tie includes six places for jumper header pins, the TOP LEFT of which carries +5vdc (red arrow) Remember, ground is made automatically when the cat5 cable is plugged in.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:::::[[File:Ren64_5vdc.JPG |450px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::* With Wjohn&#039;s Ren64 (version XC5) there is a small, unmarked +5vdc test point immediately below pin 8 of U5 (the rightmost ST485BN chip) and just left of R14. Solder-in a single header pin if you like such as the example above (red circle).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:::::[[File:Ren_c.JPG |450px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::* With Wjohn&#039;s Ren-C, +5vdc can be taken from the header pin immediately to the left of the Q1 transistor. The pin is marked VCC. Another +5vd VCC location is the 2nd from the top pin of the 6-pin JP6 programming header. Either location is fine. Both are marked with red arrows in the photo above.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::* With Budude&#039;s Ren48LSD, if you power the LSD board with 12vdc or less you can solder a single header pin into the test point that&#039;s next to the .1uf capacitor that resides between the voltage regulator and the 2200uf capacitor. The Ren-W&#039;s voltage regulator may get a bit warm but the MAX232 chip can handle 12vdc power and you should be okay. However, if you power the LSD board with more than 12vdc, you must tap power from the +5v side of one of the .1uf capacitors connected to pin 1 of any of the PIC16F688 chips. While not as handy as using the test point, it&#039;s a safer and more accurate way to power the Ren-W from the Ren48LSD.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;Connecting the Ren-W to a Renard SS Controller&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
	&lt;br /&gt;
:* Connect JP3 to JP3 on the SS to power the Ren-W (5vdc).&lt;br /&gt;
:* Ren-W as a transmit only node: connect only J1 to J1 on the SS. Leave J2 on the Ren-W unconnected.&lt;br /&gt;
:* Ren-W as a receive only node: connect only J2 to J2 on the SS. Leave J1 on the Ren-W unconnected.&lt;br /&gt;
:* Ren-W as a standard repeater: connect J1 to J1 and J2 to J2 on the SS. (A standard repeater has TWO XBee modules.)&lt;br /&gt;
:* Ren-W as an E-mode repeater: connect J1 to J1 and J2 to J2 on the SS, add a jumper on the Ren-W’s JP5 and make sure the Ren-W has only a single XBee module plugged into the TX (left) position. (An E-Mode repeater has only ONE XBee module.)&lt;br /&gt;
:* On the SS controller, you may find that the board functions better with JP1 not jumpered (RS-485 mode)but JP2 is jumpered. You can always try JP1 jumpered, but it may not be as effective.&lt;br /&gt;
:* If connecting to the RS-IN of a Ren-C, be sure to affix a snap choke core balun on the cat5 cable (Radio Shack part# 273-0069).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:* Rev6 board only: since this board has only one RJ45 jack (J2), it can be plugged into either the J1 or J2 jack on the Renard controller. If using the Rev6 as a receiver, place a jumper shunt on the RX header and connect J2 to the RS INPUT jack of the controller. If using the Rev6 as a transmitter, place a jumper shunt on the TX header and connect the Rev6&#039;s J2 to the RS OUTPUT jack of the controller. Note that the Rev6 board cannot be used as a &amp;quot;repeater&amp;quot; board which both receives and retransmits out. However, it can be used to transmit from a wired Renard controller to another Ren-W. Of course, a Rev6 can also be a main transmitter board at the PC as well. IMPORTANT: Rev-6 works best when JP2 (the termination resistor) on the SS board is open and not shunted.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;What are JP1, JP2 and JP6 used for?&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::JP1 is an optional RS-485 input connection. Because an XBee module can be programmed via serial communications using a simple AT commands from within a terminal program such as Windows Hyperterminal, these headers provide external access to the R1IN (pin 13, JP1) and T1OUT (pin 14, JP2) serial connections of the MAX232 chip, which in turn, communicates with the XBee module. Both data and ground are provided; ground is the right pin and is marked with G. Using the XCTU software and an XBee programmer board is vastly more convenient that manually configuring a module using AT commands but Digi provides ample documentation for AT command line programming. You can also measure the input voltage of the RS-485 signal at JP1; an acceptable range is +3.3 to +4.8 vdc. It is not expected that this voltage will exceed 5vdc. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::JP2 is an optional RS-232 output connection and can also be used to connect Ren-W to other serial devices. The output voltage is inverted and should be -5.0 to -5.5vdc, depending on the original input voltage.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:::::&#039;&#039;&#039;Caution: never place a shunt jumper across JP1 or JP2, or across either pin of JP3 to either pin of JP4.&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::JP6 is used to bypass the 33ohm resistor R1 which helps moderate the RS-485 serial signal’s current. The combination of R1 and zener diode D1 form a voltage/current protection circuit that limits the serial voltage to a maximum of 3.3 volts before it enters the XBee module’s DIN port. However, not all RS-485 serial signals are of the same voltage and if your serial signal is less than +3.3 volts, you may find that the integrity of transmitted data may increase by placing a shunt jumper on JP6 to bypass resistor R1. If the serial signal is +3.8 vdc or greater, you should leave JP6 open. The XBee module includes a modicum of internal protection and in testing, we found that an XBee can accommodate +5vdc at the input DIN for a short period of time (a few seconds), after which the XBee may stop responding and appear to “lock up.” Temporarily removing power to the board usually resets the XBee so that it will function again.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;Other Voltage Test Points&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::Almost in the exact center of the Ren-W board are three test points marked 5vdc, GND and 3vdc (actually 3.3v). While the actual voltages may vary slightly, the tested values should be very close to those figures. Our prototype measured 4.96v and 3.29v.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;Economy Ren-W Construction&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::If you know exactly how many receive-only and/or transmit-only boards you need and want to save some cash, you can economize by not populating the board with parts that will not be used. For example, below are pictures of stripped-down yet fully functional transmit-only (left) and receive-only (right) boards. Note the parts that are missing on each board. These examples also show the standard XBee radio, not the Pro version, which cuts cost even more, although the standard XBee is quite limited in transmission range. (Price comparison: the Standard Xbee is $19, XBee Pro is $32, XBee Pro with SMA connector is $34.):&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:::[[File:Ren-w_tx_only.JPG |350px]]  [[File:Ren-w_rx_only.JPG |350px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::&#039;&#039;&#039;Bottom line:&#039;&#039;&#039; a fully-populated Ren-W board totals about $43.38 for parts with the XBee Pro radio. If you don&#039;t need the extra power of the Pro version and opt for the standard XBee, you could build a transmit-only or receive-only board for about $26. Home-etch the boards yourself and you could have a fully-functional two-station system for about $50, and using the XBee Pro version would cost only $26 more for the pair. So if you&#039;re on the fence about wireless, you can see that it doesn&#039;t have to cost an arm-and-a-leg.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;Mounting a Ren-W and SS24 Controller in a CG2000 Enclosure&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:(click photos to enlarge)&lt;br /&gt;
:[[File:Ren-w_mount1.JPG |250px]] [[File:Ren-w_mount2.JPG |250px]]  [[File:Ren-w_mount4.JPG |250px]]  &lt;br /&gt;
Using side-entry RJ45s on the Ren-W and looping a cat5 cable from the Ren-W to the SS24, stress is minimized on all RJ45 connectors and the case can easily be fully opened. The Ren-W is mounted at the top of the case, to minimize magnetic interference from the SS24&#039;s transformer, and the SS24 is mounted diagonally in the CG2000 case to allow room for the antenna as well as a little additional distance from the triacs, another potential source of interference. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Additional Ren-W Links&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Renard Wireless Converter]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W BOM and Construction]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Configuration Concepts]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W XBee Radio Configuration]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Questions/Answers]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Troubleshooting]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Antenna Info]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Controller Heater]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8102 Ren-W Topic on the DIYC Forums]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Ren-W]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:DIYC Index]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Dirknerkle</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=Ren-W_BOM_and_Construction&amp;diff=6940</id>
		<title>Ren-W BOM and Construction</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=Ren-W_BOM_and_Construction&amp;diff=6940"/>
		<updated>2012-04-24T00:58:34Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Dirknerkle: /* Master Parts List (with Ren-W Part# and Mouser Part#) */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;== &#039;&#039;&#039;Master Parts List (with Ren-W Part# and Mouser Part#)&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Qty --	Description (Ren-W Part)			&lt;br /&gt;
*1 or 2 -- RJ45 jacks, side or top entry (J1, J2)  Mouser# 571-5520251-4  (side entry)  571-5556416-1 (top entry)&lt;br /&gt;
*6 -- 2-pin vertical PCB headers    (JP1-JP6)	Mouser# 538-22-03-2021  (fewer may be necessary – see note below)&lt;br /&gt;
*5 -- 1 uf capacitors (non-polarized - C1, C2, C4, C5, C6)	Mouser# 810-FK24Y5V1H105Z   (Note: 1 uf 16v electrolytic capacitors may be substituted if you wish; polarity markings are provided on the board as a convenience if you use electrolytics.)&lt;br /&gt;
*1 -- 100uf, 16v electrolytic capacitor (C3)	Mouser# 647-UVR1C101MDD&lt;br /&gt;
*1 -- 3.3v 1w zener diode 		(D1)	Mouser# 583-1N4728A-B&lt;br /&gt;
*1 -- 33 ohm ¼w resistor 		(R1)	Mouser# 291-33-RC	(299-33-RC  1/8 watt is also okay)&lt;br /&gt;
*1 -- 1k ohm ¼w resistor (optional) 	(R2)	Mouser# 291-1K-RC	(299-1K-RC  1/8 watt is also okay)&lt;br /&gt;
*1 -- LED (any color – optional) 	(D2)	Mouser# 604-WP7104GT (green transparent)&lt;br /&gt;
*1 -- 16-pin DIP socket (optional)		Mouser# 571-1-390261-4&lt;br /&gt;
*1 -- 3.3v positive voltage regulator (U1)	Mouser# 595-UA78M33CKCSE3&lt;br /&gt;
*1 -- RS-232 Interface ICs Dual EIA-232 Driver	Mouser# 595-MAX232IN&lt;br /&gt;
*1 -- XBee Wireless RF modules	(Pro version w/1&amp;quot; whip antenna is Mouser# 888-XBP24-AWI-001. The SMA version is #888-XBP24-ASI-001)&lt;br /&gt;
*2 -- Female SL Connectors (optional)		Mouser# 538-16-02-0102&lt;br /&gt;
*1 -- Ren-W circuit board			(etch your own in the true DIYC spirit, or contact [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/member.php?3044-dirknerkle &#039;&#039;&#039;dirknerkle&#039;&#039;&#039;] for pre-made boards)&lt;br /&gt;
*2/4 --	2mm x 10-pin XBee female headers 	(H1-H4)	Mouser# M22-7131042 or also available from SparkFun Electronics as part# PRT-08272	($1 each)&lt;br /&gt;
*1 -- Ren-C users: Snap Choke Core Balun - Radio Shack part# 273-0069&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;SUBSTITUTE PARTS&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
* 3.3v voltage regulator: Texas Instruments part # UA78M33CKCS&lt;br /&gt;
* RS-232 chip: Mouser part #: 595-MAX232N&lt;br /&gt;
* RS-232 chip: Mouser part #: 595-MAX232EIN&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Rev6 board BOM Differences&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
::The Rev6 board needs only one RJ45 jack and only two XBee female headers. Otherwise, parts are the same.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:* Here&#039;s a direct link to the complete Mouser BOM: [http://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=e1460aa043 Ren-W BOM]&lt;br /&gt;
:* Here&#039;s a direct link to the Express PCB source file for the STANDARD board: [http://diychristmas.org/dirknerkle/pcb/ren-w-master.pcb Ren-W STD PCB file]&lt;br /&gt;
:* Here&#039;s a direct link to the Express PCB source file for the SMA board: [http://diychristmas.org/dirknerkle/pcb/ren-w-master-SMA.pcb Ren-W SMA PCB file]&lt;br /&gt;
:* Here&#039;s a direct link to the Express PCB source file for the Rev6 board: [http://diychristmas.org/dirknerkle/pcb/ren-w-rev6.pcb Ren-W Rev6 PCB file]&lt;br /&gt;
:* Here&#039;s a direct link to the schematic for the Ren-W board: [http://diychristmas.org/dirknerkle/pcb/ren-w_schematic.jpg Ren-W_Schematic.JPG file]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:* Go to [http://www.expresspcb.com www.expresspcb.com] to download their free PCB software to open the PCB file.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;PCB Parts Layout&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
: The only important difference between the standard board and the SMA board is the orientation of the XBee modules. The standard board has the modules pointing upward; the SMA version has them pointing downward to allow for the long RPSMA antenna connector. Pay careful attention to the orientation of the XBee when plugging it into the board. If you have the standard board, plugging in an XBee module with an SMA connector upside-down will NOT WORK. Likewise, plugging in an XBee with a 1&amp;quot; whip the wrong way on an SMA board won&#039;t work, either. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
: The latest Rev6 version of the board has space for only one XBee module and uses a jumper to make the board be either a transmitter (TX) or receiver (RX). The Rev6 board cannot function as a repeater board as it has only one RJ45 jack, but it is about 30% smaller in size and has fewer parts so it&#039;s slightly less expensive to build.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_parts_location.JPG |600px]] [[File:Renwrev6.jpg |225px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;Construction Step-by-step - SMA and Rev-6 Boards&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;&#039;OVERALL CONCEPT:&#039;&#039;&#039; It is usually easist to assemble a circuit board using the &amp;quot;height&amp;quot; concept -- start with the parts that lay lowest or on the board itself, then the parts that stand taller and finishing with the tallest parts, installing them last.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_build-1.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
: The &#039;&#039;&#039;basic&#039;&#039;&#039; construction steps are identical for both the SMA and Rev6 versions of the board; the Rev6 board also uses the same part numbers. Obviously, the Rev6 has fewer parts, and where the parts don&#039;t exist, don&#039;t install them! Caution - the pins on the XBee female headers are quite tiny and require very little solder. Too much solder may flow down and fill the pin hole in the header itself and prevent plugging in the XBee later on.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:1.	Solder 2mm female headers at locations H1, H2, H3, H4 or: &lt;br /&gt;
:::	TX only: only H1, H2 are required&lt;br /&gt;
:::	RX only: only H3, H4 are required&lt;br /&gt;
:::	E-mode repeater: only H1, H2 are required.&lt;br /&gt;
:::	Normal repeater mode: all four headers required&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_build2.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:2.	Solder the 16-pin DIP socket into the MAX232 location. Note the position of pin 1; the notch faces to the right. If no socket is to be used, solder the MAX232 directly to the Ren-W board; verify the pin orientation before soldering.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_build3.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:3.	Solder capacitors C1 and C2. You may wish to straighten the leads to fit the holes better such as the example at the bottom of the picture. There are no polarity concerns for non-polarized capacitors. (Note: The polarity markings on the board are for the convenience of users who are using electrolytic capacitors instead of the non-polarized type.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_build4.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:4. Solder non-polarized capacitors C4, C5 and C6. Like C1 and C2, if electrolytic capacitors are used, observe the + polarity markings on the board. (Note: C4, C5 and C6 do a lot to clean up the RS-232 signal the Ren-W provides to the Renard controller, and these are essential if connecting the Ren-W to a Ren-C/595 or Ren-C/Grinch. Early models of the Ren-W did not utilize C4, C5 and C6 but they are highly suggested to make the MAX232 chip run nice and stable.)&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_build5.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:5.	Solder electrolytic capacitor C3. Note the polarity: the + side into the square pad (top) closer to jack J2 which means the stripe on the capacitor faces DOWN.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_build6.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
:6.	Solder 2-pin headers JP1, JP2, JP3, JP4, JP5, JP6. (Note: JP1 and JP2 are optional.) The header pins are a tight fit; be careful as you wiggle them into their respective holes.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_build7.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:7.	Solder RJ45 jacks J1, J2&lt;br /&gt;
:::	TX only: only J1 is required&lt;br /&gt;
:::	RX only: only J2 is required&lt;br /&gt;
:::	Normal repeater and E-mode repeater: both J1 and J2 are required&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_build8.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:8.	Solder zener diode D1. Note the polarity – on the SMA board, the band on the diode must be facing up, next to header JP6. On the Rev6 board the band on the diode must be facing DOWN, next to header H2.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_build9.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:9.	Solder resistors R1 (orange-orange-black) and R2 (brown-black-red). R2 is only required if the optional power LED (D2) is used. No polarity concerns.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_build10.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:10.	Solder the optional power LED at position D2. Note the polarity – the flat side/cathode/shorter lead faces to the mounting hole immediately to the right of D2.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_build11.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:11.	Solder the 3.3v voltage regulator U1. On the SMA board the metal heat sink side faces toward JP2 (top); on the Rev6 board the metal heat sink side faces toward C3 (right). The need for an additional heat sink is highly unlikely as the supply voltage is only 5vdc. At this point, applying power to the SMA board should light the LED (if installed) and the voltage test points in the middle of the board should register the proper voltages. The Rev6 board requires that the XBee radio be in the sockets; the LED will then blink showing the XBee radio is operational. Disconnect power before continuing with the next step.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_complete.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:12.	Install the MAX232 and XBee module(s) in their respective sockets: use the XBee RX side for a receive-only board, the XBee TX side for a transmit-only board. Note the position of pin 1.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:13.	Install optional jumper shunt at JP6 if necessary. This bypasses the R1 resistor (33 ohms) and allows a weaker RS-485 signal through to the XBee radio in transmit mode. Normally, this jumper shunt is not necessary.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:14.    Install optional jumper shunt at JP5 if necessary. This makes the Ren-W into an E-Mode repeater where a single XBee module in the TX position serves as both the receiver and transmitter.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:15.  CAUTION: Never place jumper shunts across JP1 or JP2!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:16.  CAUTION: Never place jumper shunts across either pin of JP3 to either pin of JP4!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:17.  REV-6 board only: install 2-pin jumper headers at the TX and RX locations.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;Powering the Ren-W board&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:::::[[File:Ren-w_jumper-connector.JPG |200px]]   &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::* A nifty solution that retains the SS controller’s ability to use the diagnostic LEDs is to solder each end of a single strand of cat5 wire to an open jumper shunt such as the photo above. Alternately, you may wish to make your own power cable using two female SL connectors; use a small piece of shrink tubing around the connector for insulation safety. (Both pins on the Ren-W’s JP3 header are +5vdc; both JP4 pins are ground connections.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:::::[[File:Ren-w_mount3.JPG |500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::* With WayneJ&#039;s SS line of boards, the Ren-W draws its +5vdc power from the left pin of the board’s JP3 header (photo above); the ground power connection is made when the Ren-W is connected to either of the SS controller&#039;s RJ45 jacks. If you used the open jumper shunts to make your cable, simply plug the shunts into the JP3 headers on both the SS controller and the Ren-W.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:::::[[File:Ren24LV_5vdc.JPG |250px]] &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::* With Frank Kostyun&#039;s Ren24 ver 3.3, +5vdc can be taken at TP2 (test point 2). You may drill a small hole in the pad if you wish to solder-in a single pin header. With the Ren24LV (photo above) the red circles show places where 5vdc can be found: TP2 and the &amp;quot;Power Tie&amp;quot; (both circled in red in the above photo). The power tie includes six places for jumper header pins, the TOP LEFT of which carries +5vdc (red arrow) Remember, ground is made automatically when the cat5 cable is plugged in.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:::::[[File:Ren64_5vdc.JPG |450px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::* With Wjohn&#039;s Ren64 (version XC5) there is a small, unmarked +5vdc test point immediately below pin 8 of U5 (the rightmost ST485BN chip) and just left of R14. Solder-in a single header pin if you like such as the example above (red circle).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:::::[[File:Ren_c.JPG |450px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::* With Wjohn&#039;s Ren-C, +5vdc can be taken from the header pin immediately to the left of the Q1 transistor. The pin is marked VCC. Another +5vd VCC location is the 2nd from the top pin of the 6-pin JP6 programming header. Either location is fine. Both are marked with red arrows in the photo above.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::* With Budude&#039;s Ren48LSD, if you power the LSD board with 12vdc or less you can solder a single header pin into the test point that&#039;s next to the .1uf capacitor that resides between the voltage regulator and the 2200uf capacitor. The Ren-W&#039;s voltage regulator may get a bit warm but the MAX232 chip can handle 12vdc power and you should be okay. However, if you power the LSD board with more than 12vdc, you must tap power from the +5v side of one of the .1uf capacitors connected to pin 1 of any of the PIC16F688 chips. While not as handy as using the test point, it&#039;s a safer and more accurate way to power the Ren-W from the Ren48LSD.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;Connecting the Ren-W to a Renard SS Controller&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
	&lt;br /&gt;
:* Connect JP3 to JP3 on the SS to power the Ren-W (5vdc).&lt;br /&gt;
:* Ren-W as a transmit only node: connect only J1 to J1 on the SS. Leave J2 on the Ren-W unconnected.&lt;br /&gt;
:* Ren-W as a receive only node: connect only J2 to J2 on the SS. Leave J1 on the Ren-W unconnected.&lt;br /&gt;
:* Ren-W as a standard repeater: connect J1 to J1 and J2 to J2 on the SS. (A standard repeater has TWO XBee modules.)&lt;br /&gt;
:* Ren-W as an E-mode repeater: connect J1 to J1 and J2 to J2 on the SS, add a jumper on the Ren-W’s JP5 and make sure the Ren-W has only a single XBee module plugged into the TX (left) position. (An E-Mode repeater has only ONE XBee module.)&lt;br /&gt;
:* On the SS controller, you may find that the board functions better with JP1 not jumpered (RS-485 mode)but JP2 is jumpered. You can always try JP1 jumpered, but it may not be as effective.&lt;br /&gt;
:* If connecting to the RS-IN of a Ren-C, be sure to affix a snap choke core balun on the cat5 cable (Radio Shack part# 273-0069).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:* Rev6 board only: since this board has only one RJ45 jack (J2), it can be plugged into either the J1 or J2 jack on the Renard controller. If using the Rev6 as a receiver, place a jumper shunt on the RX header and connect J2 to the RS INPUT jack of the controller. If using the Rev6 as a transmitter, place a jumper shunt on the TX header and connect the Rev6&#039;s J2 to the RS OUTPUT jack of the controller. Note that the Rev6 board cannot be used as a &amp;quot;repeater&amp;quot; board which both receives and retransmits out. However, it can be used to transmit from a wired Renard controller to another Ren-W. Of course, a Rev6 can also be a main transmitter board at the PC as well. IMPORTANT: Rev-6 works best when JP2 (the termination resistor) on the SS board is open and not shunted.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;What are JP1, JP2 and JP6 used for?&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::JP1 is an optional RS-485 input connection. Because an XBee module can be programmed via serial communications using a simple AT commands from within a terminal program such as Windows Hyperterminal, these headers provide external access to the R1IN (pin 13, JP1) and T1OUT (pin 14, JP2) serial connections of the MAX232 chip, which in turn, communicates with the XBee module. Both data and ground are provided; ground is the right pin and is marked with G. Using the XCTU software and an XBee programmer board is vastly more convenient that manually configuring a module using AT commands but Digi provides ample documentation for AT command line programming. You can also measure the input voltage of the RS-485 signal at JP1; an acceptable range is +3.3 to +4.8 vdc. It is not expected that this voltage will exceed 5vdc. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::JP2 is an optional RS-232 output connection and can also be used to connect Ren-W to other serial devices. The output voltage is inverted and should be -5.0 to -5.5vdc, depending on the original input voltage.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:::::&#039;&#039;&#039;Caution: never place a shunt jumper across JP1 or JP2, or across either pin of JP3 to either pin of JP4.&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::JP6 is used to bypass the 33ohm resistor R1 which helps moderate the RS-485 serial signal’s current. The combination of R1 and zener diode D1 form a voltage/current protection circuit that limits the serial voltage to a maximum of 3.3 volts before it enters the XBee module’s DIN port. However, not all RS-485 serial signals are of the same voltage and if your serial signal is less than +3.3 volts, you may find that the integrity of transmitted data may increase by placing a shunt jumper on JP6 to bypass resistor R1. If the serial signal is +3.8 vdc or greater, you should leave JP6 open. The XBee module includes a modicum of internal protection and in testing, we found that an XBee can accommodate +5vdc at the input DIN for a short period of time (a few seconds), after which the XBee may stop responding and appear to “lock up.” Temporarily removing power to the board usually resets the XBee so that it will function again.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;Other Voltage Test Points&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::Almost in the exact center of the Ren-W board are three test points marked 5vdc, GND and 3vdc (actually 3.3v). While the actual voltages may vary slightly, the tested values should be very close to those figures. Our prototype measured 4.96v and 3.29v.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;Economy Ren-W Construction&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::If you know exactly how many receive-only and/or transmit-only boards you need and want to save some cash, you can economize by not populating the board with parts that will not be used. For example, below are pictures of stripped-down yet fully functional transmit-only (left) and receive-only (right) boards. Note the parts that are missing on each board. These examples also show the standard XBee radio, not the Pro version, which cuts cost even more, although the standard XBee is quite limited in transmission range. (Price comparison: the Standard Xbee is $19, XBee Pro is $32, XBee Pro with SMA connector is $34.):&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:::[[File:Ren-w_tx_only.JPG |350px]]  [[File:Ren-w_rx_only.JPG |350px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::&#039;&#039;&#039;Bottom line:&#039;&#039;&#039; a fully-populated Ren-W board totals about $43.38 for parts with the XBee Pro radio. If you don&#039;t need the extra power of the Pro version and opt for the standard XBee, you could build a transmit-only or receive-only board for about $26. Home-etch the boards yourself and you could have a fully-functional two-station system for about $50, and using the XBee Pro version would cost only $26 more for the pair. So if you&#039;re on the fence about wireless, you can see that it doesn&#039;t have to cost an arm-and-a-leg.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;Mounting a Ren-W and SS24 Controller in a CG2000 Enclosure&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:(click photos to enlarge)&lt;br /&gt;
:[[File:Ren-w_mount1.JPG |250px]] [[File:Ren-w_mount2.JPG |250px]]  [[File:Ren-w_mount4.JPG |250px]]  &lt;br /&gt;
Using side-entry RJ45s on the Ren-W and looping a cat5 cable from the Ren-W to the SS24, stress is minimized on all RJ45 connectors and the case can easily be fully opened. The Ren-W is mounted at the top of the case, to minimize magnetic interference from the SS24&#039;s transformer, and the SS24 is mounted diagonally in the CG2000 case to allow room for the antenna as well as a little additional distance from the triacs, another potential source of interference. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Additional Ren-W Links&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Renard Wireless Converter]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W BOM and Construction]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Configuration Concepts]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W XBee Radio Configuration]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Questions/Answers]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Troubleshooting]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Antenna Info]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Controller Heater]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8102 Ren-W Topic on the DIYC Forums]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Ren-W]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:DIYC Index]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Dirknerkle</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=Ren-W_BOM_and_Construction&amp;diff=6939</id>
		<title>Ren-W BOM and Construction</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=Ren-W_BOM_and_Construction&amp;diff=6939"/>
		<updated>2012-04-24T00:57:36Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Dirknerkle: /* Master Parts List (with Ren-W Part# and Mouser Part#) */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;== &#039;&#039;&#039;Master Parts List (with Ren-W Part# and Mouser Part#)&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Qty --	Description (Ren-W Part)			&lt;br /&gt;
*1 or 2 -- RJ45 jacks, side or top entry (J1, J2)  Mouser# 571-5520251-4  (side entry)  571-5556416-1 (top entry)&lt;br /&gt;
*6 -- 2-pin vertical PCB headers    (JP1-JP6)	Mouser# 538-22-03-2021  (fewer may be necessary – see note below)&lt;br /&gt;
*5 -- 1 uf capacitors (non-polarized - C1, C2, C4, C5, C6)	Mouser# 810-FK24Y5V1H105Z   (Note: 1 uf 16v electrolytic capacitors may be substituted if you wish; polarity markings are provided on the board as a convenience if you use electrolytics.)&lt;br /&gt;
*1 -- 100uf, 16v electrolytic capacitor (C3)	Mouser# 647-UVR1C101MDD&lt;br /&gt;
*1 -- 3.3v 1w zener diode 		(D1)	Mouser# 583-1N4728A-B&lt;br /&gt;
*1 -- 33 ohm ¼w resistor 		(R1)	Mouser# 291-33-RC	(299-33-RC  1/8 watt is also okay)&lt;br /&gt;
*1 -- 1k ohm ¼w resistor (optional) 	(R2)	Mouser# 291-1K-RC	(299-1K-RC  1/8 watt is also okay)&lt;br /&gt;
*1 -- LED (any color – optional) 	(D2)	Mouser# 604-WP7104GT (green transparent)&lt;br /&gt;
*1 -- 16-pin DIP socket (optional)		Mouser# 571-1-390261-4&lt;br /&gt;
*1 -- 3.3v positive voltage regulator (U1)	Mouser# 595-UA78M33CKCSE3&lt;br /&gt;
*1 -- RS-232 Interface ICs Dual EIA-232 Driver	Mouser# 595-MAX232IN&lt;br /&gt;
*1 -- XBee Wireless RF modules	(Pro version w/1&amp;quot; whip antenna is Mouser# 888-XBP24-AWI-001. The SMA version is #888-XBP24-ASI-001)&lt;br /&gt;
*2 -- Female SL Connectors (optional)		Mouser# 538-16-02-0102&lt;br /&gt;
*1 -- Ren-W circuit board			(etch your own in the true DIYC spirit, or contact [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/member.php?3044-dirknerkle &#039;&#039;&#039;dirknerkle&#039;&#039;&#039;] for pre-made boards)&lt;br /&gt;
*2/4 --	2mm x 10-pin XBee female headers 	(H1-H4)	Mouser# M22-7131042 or also available from SparkFun Electronics as part# PRT-08272	($1 each)&lt;br /&gt;
*1 -- Ren-C users: Snap Choke Core Balun - Radio Shack part# 273-0069&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;SUBSTITUTE PARTS&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
* 3.3v voltage regulator: Texas Instruments part # UA78M33CKCS&lt;br /&gt;
* RS-232 chip: Mouser part #: 595-MAX232N&lt;br /&gt;
* RS-232 chip: Mouser part #: 595-MAX232EIN&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Rev6 board BOM Differences&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
::The Rev6 board needs only one RJ45 jack and only two XBee female headers. Otherwise, parts are the same.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:* Here&#039;s a direct link to the complete Mouser BOM: [http://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=e1460aa043 Ren-W BOM]&lt;br /&gt;
:* Here&#039;s a direct link to the Express PCB source file for the STANDARD board: [http://diychristmas.com/dirknerkle/pcb/ren-w-master.pcb Ren-W STD PCB file]&lt;br /&gt;
:* Here&#039;s a direct link to the Express PCB source file for the SMA board: [http://diychristmas.org/dirknerkle/pcb/ren-w-master-SMA.pcb Ren-W SMA PCB file]&lt;br /&gt;
:* Here&#039;s a direct link to the Express PCB source file for the Rev6 board: [http://diychristmas.org/dirknerkle/pcb/ren-w-rev6.pcb Ren-W Rev6 PCB file]&lt;br /&gt;
:* Here&#039;s a direct link to the schematic for the Ren-W board: [http://diychristmas.org/dirknerkle/pcb/ren-w_schematic.jpg Ren-W_Schematic.JPG file]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:* Go to [http://www.expresspcb.com www.expresspcb.com] to download their free PCB software to open the PCB file.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;PCB Parts Layout&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
: The only important difference between the standard board and the SMA board is the orientation of the XBee modules. The standard board has the modules pointing upward; the SMA version has them pointing downward to allow for the long RPSMA antenna connector. Pay careful attention to the orientation of the XBee when plugging it into the board. If you have the standard board, plugging in an XBee module with an SMA connector upside-down will NOT WORK. Likewise, plugging in an XBee with a 1&amp;quot; whip the wrong way on an SMA board won&#039;t work, either. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
: The latest Rev6 version of the board has space for only one XBee module and uses a jumper to make the board be either a transmitter (TX) or receiver (RX). The Rev6 board cannot function as a repeater board as it has only one RJ45 jack, but it is about 30% smaller in size and has fewer parts so it&#039;s slightly less expensive to build.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_parts_location.JPG |600px]] [[File:Renwrev6.jpg |225px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;Construction Step-by-step - SMA and Rev-6 Boards&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;&#039;OVERALL CONCEPT:&#039;&#039;&#039; It is usually easist to assemble a circuit board using the &amp;quot;height&amp;quot; concept -- start with the parts that lay lowest or on the board itself, then the parts that stand taller and finishing with the tallest parts, installing them last.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_build-1.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
: The &#039;&#039;&#039;basic&#039;&#039;&#039; construction steps are identical for both the SMA and Rev6 versions of the board; the Rev6 board also uses the same part numbers. Obviously, the Rev6 has fewer parts, and where the parts don&#039;t exist, don&#039;t install them! Caution - the pins on the XBee female headers are quite tiny and require very little solder. Too much solder may flow down and fill the pin hole in the header itself and prevent plugging in the XBee later on.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:1.	Solder 2mm female headers at locations H1, H2, H3, H4 or: &lt;br /&gt;
:::	TX only: only H1, H2 are required&lt;br /&gt;
:::	RX only: only H3, H4 are required&lt;br /&gt;
:::	E-mode repeater: only H1, H2 are required.&lt;br /&gt;
:::	Normal repeater mode: all four headers required&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_build2.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:2.	Solder the 16-pin DIP socket into the MAX232 location. Note the position of pin 1; the notch faces to the right. If no socket is to be used, solder the MAX232 directly to the Ren-W board; verify the pin orientation before soldering.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_build3.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:3.	Solder capacitors C1 and C2. You may wish to straighten the leads to fit the holes better such as the example at the bottom of the picture. There are no polarity concerns for non-polarized capacitors. (Note: The polarity markings on the board are for the convenience of users who are using electrolytic capacitors instead of the non-polarized type.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_build4.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:4. Solder non-polarized capacitors C4, C5 and C6. Like C1 and C2, if electrolytic capacitors are used, observe the + polarity markings on the board. (Note: C4, C5 and C6 do a lot to clean up the RS-232 signal the Ren-W provides to the Renard controller, and these are essential if connecting the Ren-W to a Ren-C/595 or Ren-C/Grinch. Early models of the Ren-W did not utilize C4, C5 and C6 but they are highly suggested to make the MAX232 chip run nice and stable.)&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_build5.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:5.	Solder electrolytic capacitor C3. Note the polarity: the + side into the square pad (top) closer to jack J2 which means the stripe on the capacitor faces DOWN.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_build6.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
:6.	Solder 2-pin headers JP1, JP2, JP3, JP4, JP5, JP6. (Note: JP1 and JP2 are optional.) The header pins are a tight fit; be careful as you wiggle them into their respective holes.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_build7.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:7.	Solder RJ45 jacks J1, J2&lt;br /&gt;
:::	TX only: only J1 is required&lt;br /&gt;
:::	RX only: only J2 is required&lt;br /&gt;
:::	Normal repeater and E-mode repeater: both J1 and J2 are required&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_build8.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:8.	Solder zener diode D1. Note the polarity – on the SMA board, the band on the diode must be facing up, next to header JP6. On the Rev6 board the band on the diode must be facing DOWN, next to header H2.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_build9.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:9.	Solder resistors R1 (orange-orange-black) and R2 (brown-black-red). R2 is only required if the optional power LED (D2) is used. No polarity concerns.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_build10.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:10.	Solder the optional power LED at position D2. Note the polarity – the flat side/cathode/shorter lead faces to the mounting hole immediately to the right of D2.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_build11.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:11.	Solder the 3.3v voltage regulator U1. On the SMA board the metal heat sink side faces toward JP2 (top); on the Rev6 board the metal heat sink side faces toward C3 (right). The need for an additional heat sink is highly unlikely as the supply voltage is only 5vdc. At this point, applying power to the SMA board should light the LED (if installed) and the voltage test points in the middle of the board should register the proper voltages. The Rev6 board requires that the XBee radio be in the sockets; the LED will then blink showing the XBee radio is operational. Disconnect power before continuing with the next step.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_complete.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:12.	Install the MAX232 and XBee module(s) in their respective sockets: use the XBee RX side for a receive-only board, the XBee TX side for a transmit-only board. Note the position of pin 1.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:13.	Install optional jumper shunt at JP6 if necessary. This bypasses the R1 resistor (33 ohms) and allows a weaker RS-485 signal through to the XBee radio in transmit mode. Normally, this jumper shunt is not necessary.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:14.    Install optional jumper shunt at JP5 if necessary. This makes the Ren-W into an E-Mode repeater where a single XBee module in the TX position serves as both the receiver and transmitter.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:15.  CAUTION: Never place jumper shunts across JP1 or JP2!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:16.  CAUTION: Never place jumper shunts across either pin of JP3 to either pin of JP4!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:17.  REV-6 board only: install 2-pin jumper headers at the TX and RX locations.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;Powering the Ren-W board&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:::::[[File:Ren-w_jumper-connector.JPG |200px]]   &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::* A nifty solution that retains the SS controller’s ability to use the diagnostic LEDs is to solder each end of a single strand of cat5 wire to an open jumper shunt such as the photo above. Alternately, you may wish to make your own power cable using two female SL connectors; use a small piece of shrink tubing around the connector for insulation safety. (Both pins on the Ren-W’s JP3 header are +5vdc; both JP4 pins are ground connections.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:::::[[File:Ren-w_mount3.JPG |500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::* With WayneJ&#039;s SS line of boards, the Ren-W draws its +5vdc power from the left pin of the board’s JP3 header (photo above); the ground power connection is made when the Ren-W is connected to either of the SS controller&#039;s RJ45 jacks. If you used the open jumper shunts to make your cable, simply plug the shunts into the JP3 headers on both the SS controller and the Ren-W.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:::::[[File:Ren24LV_5vdc.JPG |250px]] &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::* With Frank Kostyun&#039;s Ren24 ver 3.3, +5vdc can be taken at TP2 (test point 2). You may drill a small hole in the pad if you wish to solder-in a single pin header. With the Ren24LV (photo above) the red circles show places where 5vdc can be found: TP2 and the &amp;quot;Power Tie&amp;quot; (both circled in red in the above photo). The power tie includes six places for jumper header pins, the TOP LEFT of which carries +5vdc (red arrow) Remember, ground is made automatically when the cat5 cable is plugged in.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:::::[[File:Ren64_5vdc.JPG |450px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::* With Wjohn&#039;s Ren64 (version XC5) there is a small, unmarked +5vdc test point immediately below pin 8 of U5 (the rightmost ST485BN chip) and just left of R14. Solder-in a single header pin if you like such as the example above (red circle).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:::::[[File:Ren_c.JPG |450px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::* With Wjohn&#039;s Ren-C, +5vdc can be taken from the header pin immediately to the left of the Q1 transistor. The pin is marked VCC. Another +5vd VCC location is the 2nd from the top pin of the 6-pin JP6 programming header. Either location is fine. Both are marked with red arrows in the photo above.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::* With Budude&#039;s Ren48LSD, if you power the LSD board with 12vdc or less you can solder a single header pin into the test point that&#039;s next to the .1uf capacitor that resides between the voltage regulator and the 2200uf capacitor. The Ren-W&#039;s voltage regulator may get a bit warm but the MAX232 chip can handle 12vdc power and you should be okay. However, if you power the LSD board with more than 12vdc, you must tap power from the +5v side of one of the .1uf capacitors connected to pin 1 of any of the PIC16F688 chips. While not as handy as using the test point, it&#039;s a safer and more accurate way to power the Ren-W from the Ren48LSD.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;Connecting the Ren-W to a Renard SS Controller&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
	&lt;br /&gt;
:* Connect JP3 to JP3 on the SS to power the Ren-W (5vdc).&lt;br /&gt;
:* Ren-W as a transmit only node: connect only J1 to J1 on the SS. Leave J2 on the Ren-W unconnected.&lt;br /&gt;
:* Ren-W as a receive only node: connect only J2 to J2 on the SS. Leave J1 on the Ren-W unconnected.&lt;br /&gt;
:* Ren-W as a standard repeater: connect J1 to J1 and J2 to J2 on the SS. (A standard repeater has TWO XBee modules.)&lt;br /&gt;
:* Ren-W as an E-mode repeater: connect J1 to J1 and J2 to J2 on the SS, add a jumper on the Ren-W’s JP5 and make sure the Ren-W has only a single XBee module plugged into the TX (left) position. (An E-Mode repeater has only ONE XBee module.)&lt;br /&gt;
:* On the SS controller, you may find that the board functions better with JP1 not jumpered (RS-485 mode)but JP2 is jumpered. You can always try JP1 jumpered, but it may not be as effective.&lt;br /&gt;
:* If connecting to the RS-IN of a Ren-C, be sure to affix a snap choke core balun on the cat5 cable (Radio Shack part# 273-0069).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:* Rev6 board only: since this board has only one RJ45 jack (J2), it can be plugged into either the J1 or J2 jack on the Renard controller. If using the Rev6 as a receiver, place a jumper shunt on the RX header and connect J2 to the RS INPUT jack of the controller. If using the Rev6 as a transmitter, place a jumper shunt on the TX header and connect the Rev6&#039;s J2 to the RS OUTPUT jack of the controller. Note that the Rev6 board cannot be used as a &amp;quot;repeater&amp;quot; board which both receives and retransmits out. However, it can be used to transmit from a wired Renard controller to another Ren-W. Of course, a Rev6 can also be a main transmitter board at the PC as well. IMPORTANT: Rev-6 works best when JP2 (the termination resistor) on the SS board is open and not shunted.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;What are JP1, JP2 and JP6 used for?&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::JP1 is an optional RS-485 input connection. Because an XBee module can be programmed via serial communications using a simple AT commands from within a terminal program such as Windows Hyperterminal, these headers provide external access to the R1IN (pin 13, JP1) and T1OUT (pin 14, JP2) serial connections of the MAX232 chip, which in turn, communicates with the XBee module. Both data and ground are provided; ground is the right pin and is marked with G. Using the XCTU software and an XBee programmer board is vastly more convenient that manually configuring a module using AT commands but Digi provides ample documentation for AT command line programming. You can also measure the input voltage of the RS-485 signal at JP1; an acceptable range is +3.3 to +4.8 vdc. It is not expected that this voltage will exceed 5vdc. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::JP2 is an optional RS-232 output connection and can also be used to connect Ren-W to other serial devices. The output voltage is inverted and should be -5.0 to -5.5vdc, depending on the original input voltage.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:::::&#039;&#039;&#039;Caution: never place a shunt jumper across JP1 or JP2, or across either pin of JP3 to either pin of JP4.&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::JP6 is used to bypass the 33ohm resistor R1 which helps moderate the RS-485 serial signal’s current. The combination of R1 and zener diode D1 form a voltage/current protection circuit that limits the serial voltage to a maximum of 3.3 volts before it enters the XBee module’s DIN port. However, not all RS-485 serial signals are of the same voltage and if your serial signal is less than +3.3 volts, you may find that the integrity of transmitted data may increase by placing a shunt jumper on JP6 to bypass resistor R1. If the serial signal is +3.8 vdc or greater, you should leave JP6 open. The XBee module includes a modicum of internal protection and in testing, we found that an XBee can accommodate +5vdc at the input DIN for a short period of time (a few seconds), after which the XBee may stop responding and appear to “lock up.” Temporarily removing power to the board usually resets the XBee so that it will function again.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;Other Voltage Test Points&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::Almost in the exact center of the Ren-W board are three test points marked 5vdc, GND and 3vdc (actually 3.3v). While the actual voltages may vary slightly, the tested values should be very close to those figures. Our prototype measured 4.96v and 3.29v.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;Economy Ren-W Construction&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::If you know exactly how many receive-only and/or transmit-only boards you need and want to save some cash, you can economize by not populating the board with parts that will not be used. For example, below are pictures of stripped-down yet fully functional transmit-only (left) and receive-only (right) boards. Note the parts that are missing on each board. These examples also show the standard XBee radio, not the Pro version, which cuts cost even more, although the standard XBee is quite limited in transmission range. (Price comparison: the Standard Xbee is $19, XBee Pro is $32, XBee Pro with SMA connector is $34.):&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:::[[File:Ren-w_tx_only.JPG |350px]]  [[File:Ren-w_rx_only.JPG |350px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::&#039;&#039;&#039;Bottom line:&#039;&#039;&#039; a fully-populated Ren-W board totals about $43.38 for parts with the XBee Pro radio. If you don&#039;t need the extra power of the Pro version and opt for the standard XBee, you could build a transmit-only or receive-only board for about $26. Home-etch the boards yourself and you could have a fully-functional two-station system for about $50, and using the XBee Pro version would cost only $26 more for the pair. So if you&#039;re on the fence about wireless, you can see that it doesn&#039;t have to cost an arm-and-a-leg.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;Mounting a Ren-W and SS24 Controller in a CG2000 Enclosure&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:(click photos to enlarge)&lt;br /&gt;
:[[File:Ren-w_mount1.JPG |250px]] [[File:Ren-w_mount2.JPG |250px]]  [[File:Ren-w_mount4.JPG |250px]]  &lt;br /&gt;
Using side-entry RJ45s on the Ren-W and looping a cat5 cable from the Ren-W to the SS24, stress is minimized on all RJ45 connectors and the case can easily be fully opened. The Ren-W is mounted at the top of the case, to minimize magnetic interference from the SS24&#039;s transformer, and the SS24 is mounted diagonally in the CG2000 case to allow room for the antenna as well as a little additional distance from the triacs, another potential source of interference. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Additional Ren-W Links&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Renard Wireless Converter]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W BOM and Construction]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Configuration Concepts]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W XBee Radio Configuration]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Questions/Answers]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Troubleshooting]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Antenna Info]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Controller Heater]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8102 Ren-W Topic on the DIYC Forums]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Ren-W]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:DIYC Index]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Dirknerkle</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=Ren-W_BOM_and_Construction&amp;diff=6938</id>
		<title>Ren-W BOM and Construction</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=Ren-W_BOM_and_Construction&amp;diff=6938"/>
		<updated>2012-04-24T00:55:44Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Dirknerkle: /* Master Parts List (with Ren-W Part# and Mouser Part#) */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;== &#039;&#039;&#039;Master Parts List (with Ren-W Part# and Mouser Part#)&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Qty --	Description (Ren-W Part)			&lt;br /&gt;
*1 or 2 -- RJ45 jacks, side or top entry (J1, J2)  Mouser# 571-5520251-4  (side entry)  571-5556416-1 (top entry)&lt;br /&gt;
*6 -- 2-pin vertical PCB headers    (JP1-JP6)	Mouser# 538-22-03-2021  (fewer may be necessary – see note below)&lt;br /&gt;
*5 -- 1 uf capacitors (non-polarized - C1, C2, C4, C5, C6)	Mouser# 810-FK24Y5V1H105Z   (Note: 1 uf 16v electrolytic capacitors may be substituted if you wish; polarity markings are provided on the board as a convenience if you use electrolytics.)&lt;br /&gt;
*1 -- 100uf, 16v electrolytic capacitor (C3)	Mouser# 647-UVR1C101MDD&lt;br /&gt;
*1 -- 3.3v 1w zener diode 		(D1)	Mouser# 583-1N4728A-B&lt;br /&gt;
*1 -- 33 ohm ¼w resistor 		(R1)	Mouser# 291-33-RC	(299-33-RC  1/8 watt is also okay)&lt;br /&gt;
*1 -- 1k ohm ¼w resistor (optional) 	(R2)	Mouser# 291-1K-RC	(299-1K-RC  1/8 watt is also okay)&lt;br /&gt;
*1 -- LED (any color – optional) 	(D2)	Mouser# 604-WP7104GT (green transparent)&lt;br /&gt;
*1 -- 16-pin DIP socket (optional)		Mouser# 571-1-390261-4&lt;br /&gt;
*1 -- 3.3v positive voltage regulator (U1)	Mouser# 595-UA78M33CKCSE3&lt;br /&gt;
*1 -- RS-232 Interface ICs Dual EIA-232 Driver	Mouser# 595-MAX232IN&lt;br /&gt;
*1 -- XBee Wireless RF modules	(Pro version w/1&amp;quot; whip antenna is Mouser# 888-XBP24-AWI-001. The SMA version is #888-XBP24-ASI-001)&lt;br /&gt;
*2 -- Female SL Connectors (optional)		Mouser# 538-16-02-0102&lt;br /&gt;
*1 -- Ren-W circuit board			(etch your own in the true DIYC spirit, or contact [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/member.php?3044-dirknerkle &#039;&#039;&#039;dirknerkle&#039;&#039;&#039;] for pre-made boards)&lt;br /&gt;
*2/4 --	2mm x 10-pin XBee female headers 	(H1-H4)	Mouser# M22-7131042 or also available from SparkFun Electronics as part# PRT-08272	($1 each)&lt;br /&gt;
*1 -- Ren-C users: Snap Choke Core Balun - Radio Shack part# 273-0069&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;SUBSTITUTE PARTS&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
* 3.3v voltage regulator: Texas Instruments part # UA78M33CKCS&lt;br /&gt;
* RS-232 chip: Mouser part #: 595-MAX232N&lt;br /&gt;
* RS-232 chip: Mouser part #: 595-MAX232EIN&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Rev6 board BOM Differences&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
::The Rev6 board needs only one RJ45 jack and only two XBee female headers. Otherwise, parts are the same.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:* Here&#039;s a direct link to the complete Mouser BOM: [http://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=e1460aa043 Ren-W BOM]&lt;br /&gt;
:* Here&#039;s a direct link to the Express PCB source file for the STANDARD board: [http://dirknerkle.clubdata.com/pcb/ren-w-master.pcb Ren-W STD PCB file]&lt;br /&gt;
:* Here&#039;s a direct link to the Express PCB source file for the SMA board: [http://diychristmas.org/dirknerkle/pcb/ren-w-master-SMA.pcb Ren-W SMA PCB file]&lt;br /&gt;
:* Here&#039;s a direct link to the Express PCB source file for the Rev6 board: [http://diychristmas.org/dirknerkle/pcb/ren-w-rev6.pcb Ren-W Rev6 PCB file]&lt;br /&gt;
:* Here&#039;s a direct link to the schematic for the Ren-W board: [http://diychristmas.org/dirknerkle/pcb/ren-w_schematic.jpg Ren-W_Schematic.JPG file]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:* Go to [http://www.expresspcb.com www.expresspcb.com] to download their free PCB software to open the PCB file.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;PCB Parts Layout&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
: The only important difference between the standard board and the SMA board is the orientation of the XBee modules. The standard board has the modules pointing upward; the SMA version has them pointing downward to allow for the long RPSMA antenna connector. Pay careful attention to the orientation of the XBee when plugging it into the board. If you have the standard board, plugging in an XBee module with an SMA connector upside-down will NOT WORK. Likewise, plugging in an XBee with a 1&amp;quot; whip the wrong way on an SMA board won&#039;t work, either. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
: The latest Rev6 version of the board has space for only one XBee module and uses a jumper to make the board be either a transmitter (TX) or receiver (RX). The Rev6 board cannot function as a repeater board as it has only one RJ45 jack, but it is about 30% smaller in size and has fewer parts so it&#039;s slightly less expensive to build.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_parts_location.JPG |600px]] [[File:Renwrev6.jpg |225px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;Construction Step-by-step - SMA and Rev-6 Boards&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;&#039;OVERALL CONCEPT:&#039;&#039;&#039; It is usually easist to assemble a circuit board using the &amp;quot;height&amp;quot; concept -- start with the parts that lay lowest or on the board itself, then the parts that stand taller and finishing with the tallest parts, installing them last.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_build-1.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
: The &#039;&#039;&#039;basic&#039;&#039;&#039; construction steps are identical for both the SMA and Rev6 versions of the board; the Rev6 board also uses the same part numbers. Obviously, the Rev6 has fewer parts, and where the parts don&#039;t exist, don&#039;t install them! Caution - the pins on the XBee female headers are quite tiny and require very little solder. Too much solder may flow down and fill the pin hole in the header itself and prevent plugging in the XBee later on.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:1.	Solder 2mm female headers at locations H1, H2, H3, H4 or: &lt;br /&gt;
:::	TX only: only H1, H2 are required&lt;br /&gt;
:::	RX only: only H3, H4 are required&lt;br /&gt;
:::	E-mode repeater: only H1, H2 are required.&lt;br /&gt;
:::	Normal repeater mode: all four headers required&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_build2.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:2.	Solder the 16-pin DIP socket into the MAX232 location. Note the position of pin 1; the notch faces to the right. If no socket is to be used, solder the MAX232 directly to the Ren-W board; verify the pin orientation before soldering.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_build3.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:3.	Solder capacitors C1 and C2. You may wish to straighten the leads to fit the holes better such as the example at the bottom of the picture. There are no polarity concerns for non-polarized capacitors. (Note: The polarity markings on the board are for the convenience of users who are using electrolytic capacitors instead of the non-polarized type.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_build4.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:4. Solder non-polarized capacitors C4, C5 and C6. Like C1 and C2, if electrolytic capacitors are used, observe the + polarity markings on the board. (Note: C4, C5 and C6 do a lot to clean up the RS-232 signal the Ren-W provides to the Renard controller, and these are essential if connecting the Ren-W to a Ren-C/595 or Ren-C/Grinch. Early models of the Ren-W did not utilize C4, C5 and C6 but they are highly suggested to make the MAX232 chip run nice and stable.)&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_build5.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:5.	Solder electrolytic capacitor C3. Note the polarity: the + side into the square pad (top) closer to jack J2 which means the stripe on the capacitor faces DOWN.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_build6.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
:6.	Solder 2-pin headers JP1, JP2, JP3, JP4, JP5, JP6. (Note: JP1 and JP2 are optional.) The header pins are a tight fit; be careful as you wiggle them into their respective holes.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_build7.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:7.	Solder RJ45 jacks J1, J2&lt;br /&gt;
:::	TX only: only J1 is required&lt;br /&gt;
:::	RX only: only J2 is required&lt;br /&gt;
:::	Normal repeater and E-mode repeater: both J1 and J2 are required&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_build8.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:8.	Solder zener diode D1. Note the polarity – on the SMA board, the band on the diode must be facing up, next to header JP6. On the Rev6 board the band on the diode must be facing DOWN, next to header H2.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_build9.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:9.	Solder resistors R1 (orange-orange-black) and R2 (brown-black-red). R2 is only required if the optional power LED (D2) is used. No polarity concerns.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_build10.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:10.	Solder the optional power LED at position D2. Note the polarity – the flat side/cathode/shorter lead faces to the mounting hole immediately to the right of D2.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_build11.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:11.	Solder the 3.3v voltage regulator U1. On the SMA board the metal heat sink side faces toward JP2 (top); on the Rev6 board the metal heat sink side faces toward C3 (right). The need for an additional heat sink is highly unlikely as the supply voltage is only 5vdc. At this point, applying power to the SMA board should light the LED (if installed) and the voltage test points in the middle of the board should register the proper voltages. The Rev6 board requires that the XBee radio be in the sockets; the LED will then blink showing the XBee radio is operational. Disconnect power before continuing with the next step.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_complete.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:12.	Install the MAX232 and XBee module(s) in their respective sockets: use the XBee RX side for a receive-only board, the XBee TX side for a transmit-only board. Note the position of pin 1.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:13.	Install optional jumper shunt at JP6 if necessary. This bypasses the R1 resistor (33 ohms) and allows a weaker RS-485 signal through to the XBee radio in transmit mode. Normally, this jumper shunt is not necessary.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:14.    Install optional jumper shunt at JP5 if necessary. This makes the Ren-W into an E-Mode repeater where a single XBee module in the TX position serves as both the receiver and transmitter.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:15.  CAUTION: Never place jumper shunts across JP1 or JP2!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:16.  CAUTION: Never place jumper shunts across either pin of JP3 to either pin of JP4!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:17.  REV-6 board only: install 2-pin jumper headers at the TX and RX locations.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;Powering the Ren-W board&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:::::[[File:Ren-w_jumper-connector.JPG |200px]]   &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::* A nifty solution that retains the SS controller’s ability to use the diagnostic LEDs is to solder each end of a single strand of cat5 wire to an open jumper shunt such as the photo above. Alternately, you may wish to make your own power cable using two female SL connectors; use a small piece of shrink tubing around the connector for insulation safety. (Both pins on the Ren-W’s JP3 header are +5vdc; both JP4 pins are ground connections.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:::::[[File:Ren-w_mount3.JPG |500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::* With WayneJ&#039;s SS line of boards, the Ren-W draws its +5vdc power from the left pin of the board’s JP3 header (photo above); the ground power connection is made when the Ren-W is connected to either of the SS controller&#039;s RJ45 jacks. If you used the open jumper shunts to make your cable, simply plug the shunts into the JP3 headers on both the SS controller and the Ren-W.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:::::[[File:Ren24LV_5vdc.JPG |250px]] &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::* With Frank Kostyun&#039;s Ren24 ver 3.3, +5vdc can be taken at TP2 (test point 2). You may drill a small hole in the pad if you wish to solder-in a single pin header. With the Ren24LV (photo above) the red circles show places where 5vdc can be found: TP2 and the &amp;quot;Power Tie&amp;quot; (both circled in red in the above photo). The power tie includes six places for jumper header pins, the TOP LEFT of which carries +5vdc (red arrow) Remember, ground is made automatically when the cat5 cable is plugged in.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:::::[[File:Ren64_5vdc.JPG |450px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::* With Wjohn&#039;s Ren64 (version XC5) there is a small, unmarked +5vdc test point immediately below pin 8 of U5 (the rightmost ST485BN chip) and just left of R14. Solder-in a single header pin if you like such as the example above (red circle).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:::::[[File:Ren_c.JPG |450px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::* With Wjohn&#039;s Ren-C, +5vdc can be taken from the header pin immediately to the left of the Q1 transistor. The pin is marked VCC. Another +5vd VCC location is the 2nd from the top pin of the 6-pin JP6 programming header. Either location is fine. Both are marked with red arrows in the photo above.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::* With Budude&#039;s Ren48LSD, if you power the LSD board with 12vdc or less you can solder a single header pin into the test point that&#039;s next to the .1uf capacitor that resides between the voltage regulator and the 2200uf capacitor. The Ren-W&#039;s voltage regulator may get a bit warm but the MAX232 chip can handle 12vdc power and you should be okay. However, if you power the LSD board with more than 12vdc, you must tap power from the +5v side of one of the .1uf capacitors connected to pin 1 of any of the PIC16F688 chips. While not as handy as using the test point, it&#039;s a safer and more accurate way to power the Ren-W from the Ren48LSD.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;Connecting the Ren-W to a Renard SS Controller&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
	&lt;br /&gt;
:* Connect JP3 to JP3 on the SS to power the Ren-W (5vdc).&lt;br /&gt;
:* Ren-W as a transmit only node: connect only J1 to J1 on the SS. Leave J2 on the Ren-W unconnected.&lt;br /&gt;
:* Ren-W as a receive only node: connect only J2 to J2 on the SS. Leave J1 on the Ren-W unconnected.&lt;br /&gt;
:* Ren-W as a standard repeater: connect J1 to J1 and J2 to J2 on the SS. (A standard repeater has TWO XBee modules.)&lt;br /&gt;
:* Ren-W as an E-mode repeater: connect J1 to J1 and J2 to J2 on the SS, add a jumper on the Ren-W’s JP5 and make sure the Ren-W has only a single XBee module plugged into the TX (left) position. (An E-Mode repeater has only ONE XBee module.)&lt;br /&gt;
:* On the SS controller, you may find that the board functions better with JP1 not jumpered (RS-485 mode)but JP2 is jumpered. You can always try JP1 jumpered, but it may not be as effective.&lt;br /&gt;
:* If connecting to the RS-IN of a Ren-C, be sure to affix a snap choke core balun on the cat5 cable (Radio Shack part# 273-0069).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:* Rev6 board only: since this board has only one RJ45 jack (J2), it can be plugged into either the J1 or J2 jack on the Renard controller. If using the Rev6 as a receiver, place a jumper shunt on the RX header and connect J2 to the RS INPUT jack of the controller. If using the Rev6 as a transmitter, place a jumper shunt on the TX header and connect the Rev6&#039;s J2 to the RS OUTPUT jack of the controller. Note that the Rev6 board cannot be used as a &amp;quot;repeater&amp;quot; board which both receives and retransmits out. However, it can be used to transmit from a wired Renard controller to another Ren-W. Of course, a Rev6 can also be a main transmitter board at the PC as well. IMPORTANT: Rev-6 works best when JP2 (the termination resistor) on the SS board is open and not shunted.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;What are JP1, JP2 and JP6 used for?&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::JP1 is an optional RS-485 input connection. Because an XBee module can be programmed via serial communications using a simple AT commands from within a terminal program such as Windows Hyperterminal, these headers provide external access to the R1IN (pin 13, JP1) and T1OUT (pin 14, JP2) serial connections of the MAX232 chip, which in turn, communicates with the XBee module. Both data and ground are provided; ground is the right pin and is marked with G. Using the XCTU software and an XBee programmer board is vastly more convenient that manually configuring a module using AT commands but Digi provides ample documentation for AT command line programming. You can also measure the input voltage of the RS-485 signal at JP1; an acceptable range is +3.3 to +4.8 vdc. It is not expected that this voltage will exceed 5vdc. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::JP2 is an optional RS-232 output connection and can also be used to connect Ren-W to other serial devices. The output voltage is inverted and should be -5.0 to -5.5vdc, depending on the original input voltage.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:::::&#039;&#039;&#039;Caution: never place a shunt jumper across JP1 or JP2, or across either pin of JP3 to either pin of JP4.&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::JP6 is used to bypass the 33ohm resistor R1 which helps moderate the RS-485 serial signal’s current. The combination of R1 and zener diode D1 form a voltage/current protection circuit that limits the serial voltage to a maximum of 3.3 volts before it enters the XBee module’s DIN port. However, not all RS-485 serial signals are of the same voltage and if your serial signal is less than +3.3 volts, you may find that the integrity of transmitted data may increase by placing a shunt jumper on JP6 to bypass resistor R1. If the serial signal is +3.8 vdc or greater, you should leave JP6 open. The XBee module includes a modicum of internal protection and in testing, we found that an XBee can accommodate +5vdc at the input DIN for a short period of time (a few seconds), after which the XBee may stop responding and appear to “lock up.” Temporarily removing power to the board usually resets the XBee so that it will function again.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;Other Voltage Test Points&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::Almost in the exact center of the Ren-W board are three test points marked 5vdc, GND and 3vdc (actually 3.3v). While the actual voltages may vary slightly, the tested values should be very close to those figures. Our prototype measured 4.96v and 3.29v.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;Economy Ren-W Construction&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::If you know exactly how many receive-only and/or transmit-only boards you need and want to save some cash, you can economize by not populating the board with parts that will not be used. For example, below are pictures of stripped-down yet fully functional transmit-only (left) and receive-only (right) boards. Note the parts that are missing on each board. These examples also show the standard XBee radio, not the Pro version, which cuts cost even more, although the standard XBee is quite limited in transmission range. (Price comparison: the Standard Xbee is $19, XBee Pro is $32, XBee Pro with SMA connector is $34.):&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:::[[File:Ren-w_tx_only.JPG |350px]]  [[File:Ren-w_rx_only.JPG |350px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::&#039;&#039;&#039;Bottom line:&#039;&#039;&#039; a fully-populated Ren-W board totals about $43.38 for parts with the XBee Pro radio. If you don&#039;t need the extra power of the Pro version and opt for the standard XBee, you could build a transmit-only or receive-only board for about $26. Home-etch the boards yourself and you could have a fully-functional two-station system for about $50, and using the XBee Pro version would cost only $26 more for the pair. So if you&#039;re on the fence about wireless, you can see that it doesn&#039;t have to cost an arm-and-a-leg.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;Mounting a Ren-W and SS24 Controller in a CG2000 Enclosure&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:(click photos to enlarge)&lt;br /&gt;
:[[File:Ren-w_mount1.JPG |250px]] [[File:Ren-w_mount2.JPG |250px]]  [[File:Ren-w_mount4.JPG |250px]]  &lt;br /&gt;
Using side-entry RJ45s on the Ren-W and looping a cat5 cable from the Ren-W to the SS24, stress is minimized on all RJ45 connectors and the case can easily be fully opened. The Ren-W is mounted at the top of the case, to minimize magnetic interference from the SS24&#039;s transformer, and the SS24 is mounted diagonally in the CG2000 case to allow room for the antenna as well as a little additional distance from the triacs, another potential source of interference. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Additional Ren-W Links&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Renard Wireless Converter]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W BOM and Construction]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Configuration Concepts]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W XBee Radio Configuration]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Questions/Answers]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Troubleshooting]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Antenna Info]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Controller Heater]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8102 Ren-W Topic on the DIYC Forums]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Ren-W]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:DIYC Index]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Dirknerkle</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=Ren-W_Troubleshooting&amp;diff=6937</id>
		<title>Ren-W Troubleshooting</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=Ren-W_Troubleshooting&amp;diff=6937"/>
		<updated>2012-04-24T00:50:40Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Dirknerkle: /* Renard/XBee Timing Issue and Channels 57-64 */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;The Ren-W circuit board is a very simple design but good soldering technique is still extremely important.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Voltage Measurements: three test points are just below pin 16 of the MAX232 chip/socket (circled in red):&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::::[[File:Ren-w-closeup.JPG |500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Construction Mistakes ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
: The Ren-W board was designed for home-etching and thus has very generous traces and solder pads. Be certain that the following components are mounted on the board properly:&lt;br /&gt;
::* The notch on the MAX232 chip faces to the right, toward the U1 voltage regulator.&lt;br /&gt;
::* The zener diode (D1) has the black stripe on the TOP, next to the JP6 header pins. On the Rev-6 board the diode stripe is on the BOTTOM.&lt;br /&gt;
::* The 3.3 voltage regulator (U1) has the metal tab facing up, toward the JP2 header pins. On the Rev-6 board, the metal tab faces to the right, toward the C3 capacitor.&lt;br /&gt;
::* The electrolytic capacitor (C3) has the - stripe facing DOWN toward the LED, which means the + side is up toward the J2 jack.&lt;br /&gt;
::* Capacitors C1, C2 and C3 are needed at the very least and if you find that your Ren-W doesn&#039;t work without optional capacitors C4, C5 and C6, install them and you&#039;ll probably solve your problem. These three additional capacitors do a lot to clean up the RS-232 serial signal output and adding C4, C5 and C6 are highly recommended if you encounter inconsistent communication from the Ren-W to your Renard controller.&lt;br /&gt;
::* If using an electrolytic capacitor for C1, C2, C4, C5 or C6, be sure its polarity is correct. The + sides are marked on the board; the opposite side it obviously the - side, which is marked on the capacitor itself.&lt;br /&gt;
::* The LED (D2) while not very clear in this photo, has the kathode (flat side) facing the mounting hole to its right. On the Rev-6 board, the flat side faces to the right, toward the U1 voltage regulator.&lt;br /&gt;
::* Resistor R1 (33 ohms) is immediately below the MAX232 chip. The resistor has no polarity concerns.&lt;br /&gt;
::* Resistor R2 (1k ohms) is immediately below the U1 voltage regulator. The resistor has no polarity concerns.&lt;br /&gt;
::* Be sure to observe the XBee module&#039;s orientation as printed on the board; remember that the standard board has the XBee pointing upward while the SMA board has the module pointing downward. If you have the standard board, DO NOT simply turn the module around to point downward for an XBee module with an SMA connector -- it will not work and you may damage the radio when power is applied!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:::::[[File:Ren-w_parts_location.JPG |500px]]   [[File:Renwrev6.jpg |200px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Soldering Mistakes ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::::[[File:Ren-w-copperB.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
:When you study the underside (copper) side of the circuit board, a few things become readily apparent:&lt;br /&gt;
::* Very few pins of the XBee radio modules are actually used; most are unused and serve only to hold the header sockets securely.&lt;br /&gt;
::* The solder pads for the XBee headers are very small; accurate and careful soldering is a must to prevent solder bridges. A solder bridge could easily prevent the XBee radio from functioning properly and could damage it. Note the elongated pads for the XBee headers, too. These provide home etch boards will a larger soldering surface.&lt;br /&gt;
::* Note that the cat5 jacks J1 and J2 include additional solder pads for pins that don&#039;t connect to anything. These are provided for home etch boards by providing additional soldering area and strength in holding the jacks to the board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Cabling Mistakes ==&lt;br /&gt;
::* The Ren-W does not need a special cable when connecting J1 or J2 to the Renard controller. A standard cat5 cable with standard pinouts should work fine. It&#039;s a good idea to keep this relatively short inside a controller box so that you don&#039;t end up with a coil of wire, which could affect transmission. Otherwise, the length of the cat5 cables connecting the Ren-W to the controller should be limited to 50 feet or less, the recommended maximum for RS-232 communications.&lt;br /&gt;
::* When connecting a Ren-W directly to a computer&#039;s -485 output to be a &amp;quot;transmit only&amp;quot; unit, remember that the Ren-W takes input only on pin 4 of J1 connector and ground is made on pins 1-2. You may need to make a special cable by connecting -485 to pin 4 before plugging it into J1 of the Ren-W. Ren-W does not use pin 5.&lt;br /&gt;
::* If the Ren-W locks up unexpectedly when connected to a PC in transmit only mode and only unplugging power temporarily restores operations, check the input voltage of the RS-485 line connecting into J1 of the Ren-W; it should be the -485 line.&lt;br /&gt;
::* The Rev-6 version of the Ren-W board requires that JP2 on an SS8, SS16 or SS24 sontroller be open and not shunted. This is because Rev-6 has only one RJ45 jack, and it uses a different physical connection point to the SS board. (JP2 is the termination resistor on an SS controller)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Interaction With other Wi-Fi Devices ==&lt;br /&gt;
::Xbee radios operate in the 2.4ghz frequency spectrum, the same spectrum as your wi-fi router or wireless access point. It is possible that you may encounter interaction between the two if the wi-fi device is in close proximity to a receiving XBee radio. The symptom is misfires or it may even appear to be randomly responsive. For example, a wireless laptop with a live, wireless connection could negatively influence the reception of a nearby controller with a Ren-W, or a wireless webcam placed near a remote controller with a Ren-W could easily influence that Ren-W&#039;s ability to discriminate the Xbee control signal if the webcam&#039;s transmission is too strong.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::Possible solution: Wireless routers, webcams, access points (etc.) usually have the option to use a &amp;quot;channel&amp;quot; as the primary communicating link. XBee radios also have a channel setting and depending on whether it&#039;s a regular Xbee or an XBPro, the channel options may differ. The default XBee channel is channel &amp;quot;C.&amp;quot; Try changing the XBee radios to a different channel and see if the conflicts go away. Note that the channel setting must be made on ALL XBees that are to communicate with one another.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Interaction with FM Radio Transmitter Antenna ==&lt;br /&gt;
::Even though normal broadcast FM is in the megahertz frequency range while XBee radios communicate in the gigahertz range, it&#039;s possible that when the XBee transmitting radio is very close to the FM transmitter&#039;s antenna, some interaction may occur causing either distortion in the FM radio signal or possibly some interference with the XBee if the FM transmitter is very powerful. It&#039;s probably best to keep them separated by a few feet if possible.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Using Common Sense ==&lt;br /&gt;
::* Ren-W&#039;s will communicate best when there is a direct line-of-sight between the transmitter and the receiver. It&#039;s just obvious common sense to place the transmitting antenna in such a place where it will have the fewest things between it and the receiving units. If your receiving Ren-Ws are in the front yard, then putting the transmitter in the back yard doesn&#039;t make a lot of sense and you&#039;ll likely encounter misfires because of it.&lt;br /&gt;
::* When you place your receiving unit/controller on the ground, or near your display, place it so that the antenna is closer to the transmitting antenna. If the antenna is inside the controller&#039;s case and in a corner, place the controller so that corner is the closest corner to the transmitting antenna. Just good common sense.&lt;br /&gt;
::* If your transmitting antenna is vertical, then when you position your controllers/receiving Ren-Ws, place them so that their antennae are parallel to the transmitter so as to maximize the reception of the radio waves. In some cases, the units may be so close to the transmitting antenna that it doesn&#039;t matter, and that&#039;s fine, but the further away you get, the more important it will be to minimize misfires.&lt;br /&gt;
::* If a receiving unit is quite distant or has many trees, bushes, swingsets or other things in the way, consider using putting an external antenna on the receiving unit. It will be vastly superior to using any of the XBee&#039;s built-in antennas and can greatly help reduce misfires. Again, it&#039;s common sense -- try to get the antennae so there are few impediments between them.&lt;br /&gt;
::* Understand that there will be misfires with Ren-W, but there will be fewer of them if you follow these common sense guidelines. Remember, the Renard protocol is asynchronous -- it sends out only and it doesn&#039;t look for any return confirmation that a packet that was sent was actually delivered. This is by design because if communication was poor, there would be a lot slower transfer of data to your controllers because of all the retries going on and your lights would always lag behind your music. Hence, Renard is asynchronous. So is Ren-W for the very same reason. Therefore, to minimize misfires, you need to do everything in your power to allow the best communication between the transmitter and the receivers as you possibly can.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Other Easy Mistakes ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::* Plugging the XBee module into the wrong side of the board for the kind of function the board is to do. Remember:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::::* A receive-ONLY Ren-W has the XBee mounted in the RX (right) side and no jumper is on JP5. The cat5 cable is plugged into J2 and into the J2 socket of the Renard SS controller (the controller&#039;s RS-232 IN port)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::::* A transmit-ONLY Ren-W has the XBee mounted in the TX (left) side and no jumper is on JP5. The cat5 cable is plugged into J1 and into the J1 socket of the Renard SS controller (the controller&#039;s RS-485 OUT port).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::::* An E-Mode Repeater has is exactly the same as a transmit-only board but JP5 is jumpered instead. Cat5 cables connect both jacks J1 and J2 to the Renard controller&#039;s RS-485 OUT and RS-232 IN ports respectively.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::* Connecting J1 to the Renard controller for a receive-only Ren-W won&#039;t work because a receive-only Ren-W uses J2 for the cat5.&lt;br /&gt;
::* Connecting J2 to the Renard controller for a transmit-only Ren-W won&#039;t work because a transmit-only Ren-W uses J1 for the cat5.&lt;br /&gt;
::* Misconfiguring the 16-bit address of an XBee module.&lt;br /&gt;
::* Misconfiguring the LOW address of an XBee module.&lt;br /&gt;
::* Setting the destination address of an XBee module to the wrong address. (This is a hard one to find!)&lt;br /&gt;
::* Setting one radio to transmit to a specific destination XBee but not having the destination XBee in the test.&lt;br /&gt;
::* Changing the PANID to the wrong value; remember, only radios with the same PANID can communcate with one another.&lt;br /&gt;
::* Forgetting to set the Renard controller to accept RS-232 data.&lt;br /&gt;
::* Mounting the Ren-W so the antenna is too close to a transformer or even a triac on the Renard controller can cause erratic transmission and/or reception behavior.&lt;br /&gt;
::* If using the Ren-W to transmit control commands to a Ren-C/595 or Ren-C/Grinch controller, be sure that the cat5 cable that goes from J2 of the Ren-W to the Rs-IN jack of the Ren-C has a choke core balun affixed to it (Radio Shack part# 273-0069). You might also coil the cat5 cable into 4 or 5 loops approx 5&amp;quot; across if the balun alone doesn&#039;t solve the problem. This will reduce the amount of EMI/RFI that the XBee radio produces, which the ren-C may mistakenly see as serial input and cause framing errors. It&#039;s also possible that the framing error LED on a Ren-C may light even though everything is functioning properly. This is likely due to some of the XBee&#039;s EMI getting through anyway and is probably not a critical issue.&lt;br /&gt;
::* Unplugging or plugging-in an XBee module while the Ren-W board is powered up. This can adversely affect and XBee module, and it&#039;s just good practice to remove power from it before unplugging anything.&lt;br /&gt;
::* Resetting an XBee module back to its default specs (an option in the XCTU software) but forgetting to reset the baud rate back to 57600 before putting it back in a Ren-W socket.&lt;br /&gt;
::* Using 57600, 8 bits, Mark parity and 2 stop bits for daisy-chained Ren-W/controllers. Use 57,600, 8, N, 1 instead.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== RS-485 Patch for Ren-W as a Transmitter at the PC - Pre-version 20100622 only ==&lt;br /&gt;
::NOTE: This patch applies ONLY to Ren-W boards prior to version 20100622, and it does not apply at all to the Rev-6 board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:A better and more secure transmitter can be made by using only the -485 signal and allowing the Max232 chip to invert it before sending it to the XBee. The patch has been well-tested and is very easy to make. You probably will need to make the change only to one Ren-W board if you plan to use it as a transmitter direct from your PC instead of using the XBee Explorer board. Here&#039;s how:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:::[[File:Ren-w-485patch.JPG | 400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:* Cut the bottom copper tracing in two places, shown as RED LINES in the picture.&lt;br /&gt;
:* Solder short jumper wires were indicated in BLUE LINES in the picture.&lt;br /&gt;
:* When done, the -485 line will be sent to the Max232 where it will be inverted and sent to the XBee&#039;s input via the zener diode, which will limit the voltage to 3.3v, the maximum prescribed for the XBee.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Transmission Test ==&lt;br /&gt;
: This procedure gives you a chance to see what the Renard data looks like to a controller and it serves ad a terrific way to test a transmitting Ren-W board as well as a receiving XBee module to make sure they&#039;re using the same communication parameters.&lt;br /&gt;
::* Set up a Ren-W in transmit only mode (XBee in the TX side, standard cat5 cable connecting from the RS-OUT jack of the Renard to the RS-IN jack of the Ren-W, Ren-W powered on.)&lt;br /&gt;
::* Plug your computer&#039;s serial output into the Renard controller&#039;s serial IN. Either RS-232 or RS-485 is fine. Just connect it to your computer&#039;s serial port as you would normally.&lt;br /&gt;
::* Use an USB XBee Explorer programmer board with an XBee radio plugged into it as the &amp;quot;receiver.&amp;quot; &lt;br /&gt;
::::* Plug the Explorer board into the computer&lt;br /&gt;
::::* Start up the XCTU software, connect to the XBee radio.&lt;br /&gt;
::::* Open the TERMINAL window, select the SHOW HEX button.&lt;br /&gt;
::::* Leave the screen open so you can view it.&lt;br /&gt;
::* Start up Vixen&lt;br /&gt;
::::* Define a new profile with twice as many channels as the Renard controller you&#039;re using. If it&#039;s an SS16, then create a 32-channel profile using the Renard Dimmer (modified) plugin. &lt;br /&gt;
::::* Open a new sequence and link it to the new profile you just created.&lt;br /&gt;
::::* Make Vixen&#039;s screen smaller so you can see both Vixen and the XCTU Terminal screen at the same time.&lt;br /&gt;
::::* Open Vixen&#039;s channel test feature. When it appears on the screen, your should see a block of HEX information pop into the XCTU screen&#039;s window. You&#039;ll see a 7E 80 sequence followed by as many pairs of zeros as half of your total channel count. If you have defined a 32 channel profile and are using an SS16, then you&#039;ll see sixteen pairs of zeros.&lt;br /&gt;
::::* On Vixen&#039;s channel test box, click the SELECT ALL button. You&#039;ll see the XCTU screen fill with another 7E 80 followed by pairs of FFs, representing &amp;quot;all on&amp;quot; for all the channels. Click the UNSELECT ALL button and the screen will return to zeros.&lt;br /&gt;
::::* Use the slider bar when the lights are &amp;quot;all on&amp;quot; and watch the XCTU screen fill with data. Each slider bar change sends a whole set of data for all channels. You&#039;ll be amazed how much data is processed, and how quickly, too.&lt;br /&gt;
::* You can play an actual sequence in this way, too, and watch all the data flow through to what the transmitting Ren-W board thinks is another Ren-W, but is actually just an XBee radio. You&#039;ll be able to see patterns emerge after a while.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Renard/XBee Timing Issue and Channels 57-64 ==&lt;br /&gt;
: An issue has been reported and reproduced on the Ren64 whereby at 57600 baud, channels 57-64 act inconsistently. They seem to work okay with the ALL CHANNEL test and appear to work okay with most blinky-type activity, but in slower testing, some channels may not come on at all. It&#039;s important to know that the problem is not with the Renard boards or the Renard firmware: the problem is that the XBee&#039;s communication speed is a bit fast and also that certain versions of the XBee firmware have a bug in the serial settings. Changing the firmware and XBee radio to operate at 38400 baud completely solves the problem. However, this also lowers the total number of channels that can be controlled on a single com port at that speed. Another solution is to use only channels 1-56 on the Ren64 controller and continue to operate at 57600, which effectively provides for up to 254 usable channels out of the suggested maximum 286 when sequencing at 50ms. &#039;&#039;&#039;Two additional solutions are available:&#039;&#039;&#039; one is a combination hardware/firmware modification on the Ren64; the second is a firmware modification on the XBee radio coupled with a changed Vixen settiong. Be sure to read BOTH solutions before you start hacking your board! First, the Hardware/Firmware modification of the Ren64 board:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;SOLUTION #1- Hardware/Firmware modification on the Ren64 board - (thanks to tweist!)&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
: Disconnect pin 5 of the U14 pic, and connect a jumper wire between pin5 and pin 1 of U5 (the rightmost ST485BN chip). Then reflash the firmware on the U14 pic with start address 4.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
: Here&#039;s a slick way to do it that won&#039;t compromise any traces on the Ren64 board:&lt;br /&gt;
::1. Bend pin 5 of a spare 14-pin DIP socket out to the side and piggyback it into the U14 socket. Solder a small wire onto the exposed pin 5.&lt;br /&gt;
::::[[File:Ren64-mod2.JPG | 500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::2. Drill a small hole next to U14 and fish the wire through it. There is ample room for the hole, but use caution nevertheless. A small piece of tape on either side of the piggybacked socket will keep it snug.&lt;br /&gt;
::::[[File:Ren64-mod1.JPG | 500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::3. Solder the wire to pin 1 of U5 on the bottom of the board.&lt;br /&gt;
::::[[File:Ren64-mod3.JPG | 200px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::4. Remember to flash the U14 pic with start address firmware set with start_addr 4.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;SOLUTION #2 - XBee Firmware Upgrade/Vixen 2 stop bits&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
: Unsolvable communication issues have been reported by users who have XBee radios that use XBee firmware version 10CD. It is possible that other versions also have a similar problem, but upgrading the XBee firmware to version 10E6 apparently solves the issue when you set the XBee firmware&#039;s parity setting to 3-MARK PARITY. The other setting change is to set your Renard plugin com settings to 57600, 8 data bits and 2 stop bits. However, one of the other issues is that XBee version 10CD is quite cantankerous and generally doesn&#039;t upgrade itself. Here&#039;s the solution to that:&lt;br /&gt;
:::* Be sure your XCTU software has version 10E6 available in the version box. XCTU has a button option to check for new versions on the Digi web site.&lt;br /&gt;
:::* Restore the XBee radio to the factory default settings by clicking the RESTORE button.&lt;br /&gt;
:::* Change your XTCU settings to the default 9600 baud, 8 data bits, no parity and 1 stop bit and load the XBee configuration. Verify that it has version 10CD. (If you don&#039;t have 10CD, you can use this procedure to update it to 10E6 anyway.)&lt;br /&gt;
:::* Check the box to &amp;quot;Always update firmware&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
:::* Choose version 10A5 in the version window. (Yes, you have to DOWNGRADE it first.)&lt;br /&gt;
:::* Click the WRITE button to write the changes, initialize the radio and reprogram it with 10A5 firmware.&lt;br /&gt;
:::* (Do the next two steps very quickly!) When done, uplug the XBee radio so it has no power.&lt;br /&gt;
:::* Re-plug in the XBee, open it again and read the settings.&lt;br /&gt;
:::* Make sure the &amp;quot;Always update firmware&amp;quot; box is checked.&lt;br /&gt;
:::* Choose version 10E6 in the version window.&lt;br /&gt;
:::* Click the WRITE button again.&lt;br /&gt;
:::* When finished, unplug the radio again to remove power, then plug it back in and read the settings again. You should see version 10E6 in the version box.&lt;br /&gt;
:::* Make the normal changes as already suggested (PanID, No-Acks, 57600 baud, packetization timeout 0).&lt;br /&gt;
:::* Change the PARITY setting to 3-MARK PARITY&lt;br /&gt;
:::* Write the settings to the radio.&lt;br /&gt;
:::* Make sure Vixen&#039;s com settings for the Renard plug-in is set to MARK parity and 2 stop bits also.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== What if I can&#039;t Figure It Out? ==&lt;br /&gt;
You can always send your Ren-W boards to Dirknerkle -- he&#039;ll be glad to check them out and fix whatever needs fixing. If you need to do this, just PM the dirk sometime for his address. Oh, and you&#039;ll want to send the XBee modules too, because he&#039;ll want to check everything out and test it. You&#039;ll get them back in perfect working order and his turnaround is super-fast.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Additional Ren-W Links&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Renard Wireless Converter]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W BOM and Construction]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Configuration Concepts]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W XBee Radio Configuration]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Questions/Answers]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Troubleshooting]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Antenna Info]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Controller Heater]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8102 Ren-W Topic on the DIYC Forums]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Ren-W]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:DIYC Index]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Dirknerkle</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=Renard_Wireless_Converter&amp;diff=6936</id>
		<title>Renard Wireless Converter</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=Renard_Wireless_Converter&amp;diff=6936"/>
		<updated>2012-04-24T00:46:53Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Dirknerkle: /* Signal Propagation Delay */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;:[[File:Ren-w_complete.JPG|330px ]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;Why a Wireless Converter?&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:Sometimes it&#039;s not practical, affordable or maybe even possible to lay physical cable to a particular light controller. For example, trenching beneath your driveway to put a megatree on the other side is a messy, dirty and potentially expensive project. Or let&#039;s say you have a pond behind your house and you&#039;d like to put a display on the bank on the other side where there&#039;s already an electrical connection for a circulating fountain. Or maybe your neighbor across the street wants you to help him light his house -- trenching beneath a street or suspending cable above it would probably require multiple permits from your local municipality, if it were allowed at all. Maybe you&#039;ve built a new house and you don&#039;t want to leave a window open so all the cables can be routed through it to the outside. Or perhaps you live in an apartment building or rented condo where drilling a hole through the wall isn&#039;t even an option. These are just some examples of instances where a wireless connection to your outside Renard controller could very likely be the simplest and most affordable choice. That&#039;s why the Ren-W was invented.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;Overview&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:Ren-W is an inexpensive, compact (3”H x 2.5”W), easy-to-build and configure plug-in wireless adapter for Renard controllers and 595/Grinch systems that use Ren-C (see Ren-C note below). It can also be used with other Renard controllers with very slight modifications to the controllers to tap +5v power for the Ren-W. The Ren-W functions as a transparent serial connection between Renard controllers by converting RS-485 serial data into a digital stream, transmitting it wirelessly to another Ren-W where the digital stream is recombined into serial data and fed into the Renard controller’s normal RJ45 input jack (J2) via short cat5 cable, just like it would have been had the computer been hard-wired directly to the controller. In a typical Renard daisy chain design, channel data that a Renard controller can’t use is passed through and out the controller’s data-out RJ45 jack (J1) as RS-485 data, which is then fed back into the Ren-W, retransmitted to the next Ren-W that’s supposed to receive it, where the digital stream is recombined into serial data, etc. and the process is repeated for as many Ren-W adapters as are in the chain. The Ren-W uses inexpensive yet powerful XBee Pro wireless radio modules to perform the actual wireless transmission/reception functions. The cost to build a single Ren-W board varies from about $27 to $73, depending on the various electronic components chosen.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;DMX&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
:Ren-W is NOT compatible with DMX systems as DMX requires data speeds upwards of 250kbps. The XBee radio that Ren-W uses for wireless communication cannot support streaming data at that speed; it tops out at around 80kbps, which means that 57,600 baud is the highest communication speed Ren-W can support.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;Compatibility with various Renard Controllers&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:The Ren-W has been successfully tested with the following controllers:&lt;br /&gt;
:* WayneJ&#039;s Renard SS8, SS16 and SS24&lt;br /&gt;
:* Wjohn&#039;s Ren-C in either a Ren-C/Olsen 595 or Ren-C/Grinch setup&lt;br /&gt;
:* Wjohn&#039;s Ren64 ver XC5&lt;br /&gt;
:* Frank Kostyun&#039;s Ren24, versions 3.0 and 3.3, and the Ren24LV&lt;br /&gt;
:* Budude&#039;s Ren48LSD v3b&lt;br /&gt;
:* Renard Simple24 and Renard Simple32 by Mactayl and TStraub&lt;br /&gt;
:* CTMal&#039;s RenServo&lt;br /&gt;
:* Other Renard boards that use similar serial input/output circuitry should also work.&lt;br /&gt;
:* The following serial port parameters are highly suggested: Baud: 57600, Parity: Mark, Stop bits: 2&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;Renard basics and how they relate to Ren-W&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:In standard operation when multiple Renard SS controllers are daisy chained from one into the next, each controller uses the first X number of Vixen channels it receives where X is the number of channels the controller is designed to control. This is always a multiple of 8 because of the Renard program code and the PIC16F688 chips used in the SS controllers. The channels it can’t use are passed along to the next controller. Therefore, the order in which you chain one controller into the next can make a difference, and even more dramatically if the controllers have different channel counts. For example, if you had an SS8 and an SS24 (total 32 channels) and the first controller was the SS8 which daisy chained into the SS24, the SS8 will use the first 8 channels (1-8) and the SS24 would get the overflow channels 9-32. However, if the order was reversed and the SS24 was the first controller which daisy chained into the SS8, the SS24 will use the first 24 channels (1-24) and the SS8 would get the overflow channels 25-32.  The Ren-W simulates the daisy chain concept with “Point-to-point broadcasting” (PTP or Alternate PTP) because the Ren-W boards’ XBee radios are configured to provide exactly the same daisy chain logic, just as if you were connecting the controllers with cat5 cable to daisy chain one into the next, etc. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:To make two (or more) Renard controllers respond identically with the same Vixen commands, Vixen users usually replicate the Vixen channel information that controls one Renard to the corresponding channels that control the other Renards. However, what if you could use a “signal splitter” cable that distributed the same serial signal to multiple controllers, not unlike the concept of a “multi-outlet serial plug strip?” (Splitting an actual, stock serial signal to multiple devices without additional amplification is certainly possible but is generally a discouraged practice – the concept is used here for the illustration.) With such a splitter, each SS controller plugged into the “multi-outlet serial strip” would receive exactly the same channel information at the same time, just as if each was connected directly to the computer’s serial port. In the 32-channel example above however, since the SS8 has only 8 channels, it would be able to use only Vixen channels 1-8 while the SS24 would be able to use channels 1-24, &#039;&#039;and channels 25-32 would not be used by either controller.&#039;&#039; The “serial signal splitter” concept can be accomplished wirelessly quite easily; Ren-W refers to this as &#039;&#039;“Global Broadcasting.”&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:A version of Renard firmware is available that makes &amp;quot;global broadcasting&amp;quot; possible while still retaining individual channel control. The firmware is an ideal match for the Ren-W and uses a &amp;quot;start address&amp;quot; concept where you set the starting channel number for the controller(s). For more information read the configuration guide: [http://www.christmasinshirley.com/wiki/index.php?title=Renard_Start_Address_Configuration_Guide Start Address Configuration Guide]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;XBee Wireless Radio Module Basics&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:XBee radio modules are essentially addressable wireless serial modems. Ren-W uses XBee radios as a “serial line replacement” to the normal cat5 wiring used to connect Renard controllers. XBees can communicate with one another on a one to one, one to many, or one to all &amp;quot;global broadcast&amp;quot; mode, depending on how each module is configured. The XBee’s configuration flexibility makes it possible to configure a Ren-W network so that multiple Renard controllers respond to the same channels or the network may be configured so that each controller has its own range of channels, which is more in keeping with normal Renard use. XBee radios are designed to accommodate streaming serial data up to 80kbps. Therefore, for best results, set your computer and Renard controllers at 57,600 baud; at 115,200 you may encounter erratic behavior.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;Ren-W Operating Modes&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;&#039;Receive only mode:&#039;&#039;&#039; only one XBee module is required, plugged into the XBee RX (right) side of the Ren-W board.&lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;&#039;Transmit only mode:&#039;&#039;&#039; only one XBee module is required, plugged into the XBee TX (left) side of the Ren-W board.&lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;&#039;Repeater mode:&#039;&#039;&#039; two XBee modules are needed, one for each side of the Ren-W board. One will receive, the other will retransmit the Vixen commands to the next Ren-W. This applies only to the SMA board, the only board that has space for two Xbee modules.&lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;&#039;E-mode repeater:&#039;&#039;&#039;  only one XBee module is needed to perform the repeater functions, plugged into the XBee TX (left) side of the Ren-W board. Because a single XBee module must perform receive/transmit sequentially instead of simultaneously, small periodic delays in propagating the Vixen commands to the next Ren-W unit may occur. Note also that E-mode requires the use of the alternate PTP configuration scheme, outlined below, as well as a jumper across JP5. Only the SMA board can operate in e-mode.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;Signal Propagation Delay&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:An XBee module can require up to 6ms to process received data; normally it&#039;s 2-3ms. While this is a very short period of time, consider that the delay is cumulative when multiple Ren-W nodes are configured in repeater mode. For example, in a Ren-W network of 5 nodes, the last SS controller could be nearly 30ms late in reacting to Vixen control commands. This may not be very perceptible in some situations but in others, it could become quite noticeable and the delay should be factored into the general design of a Ren-W network, and possibly during the light sequencing design as well. Note that in global broadcast mode, the delay is not cumulative as all receiving Ren-Ws receive the Vixen commands simultaneously and each unit would only be 2-3ms (or less) late. In actual testing, whatever delay may exist in global broadcast mode is virtually undetectable.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;Selecting the right XBee Modules - Which Do I Need?&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:XBee RF modules come in a standard and a &amp;quot;pro&amp;quot; version, and they operate in the 2.4ghz frequency spectrum. The modules do not interfere with wireless computer networks that also operate at 2.4ghz. The lower-powered standard version is said to have a line-of-sight transmission range upwards of 300 feet while the more powerful “pro” version is only ¼” larger and has a line-of-sight range upwards of a mile. In actual use, the distances are quite probably less than the stated specifications, especially considering the modules will likely be housed inside a protective non-metallic box of some kind. Mounting inside a metal box is not advised as it will severely hamper effective transmission distance.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:xbee_radio_modules.JPG|750px ]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:The antenna type on an XBee module can make a difference, too. (Be sure to read the pages about antennas!) The short, 1&amp;quot; wire antenna will provide better coverage than the flat, on-chip antenna. A version is also available with an antenna connector, presumably for a external directional antenna and even greater range potential. There is no significant price difference for the different antenna types and all are available for both the standard and pro versions. Suggestion: If using the Ren-W in normal repeater mode, consider using the lower powered, lesser expensive standard module for receiving and the more powerful pro module for transmitting, depending, of course, on the transmission distance needed. A special version of the Ren-W board is available for those who want to try an external antenna, using XBee modules that have the SMA antenna connector. Because of the length of this connector, the board has been reengineered so that the XBee modules point downward:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::::[[File:Ren-w_sma.JPG|310px ]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:Other than the power difference and slightly larger physical size of the “pro” version, the modules are interchangeable, pin-for-pin identical, and the configuration settings are identical as well. &#039;&#039;&#039;However, consider that the “pro” version has 10x the transmitting power of its lower-powered sibling, and it has a more sensitive receiver, too. These two factors make it the XBee module of choice for the Ren-W.&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:It’s important to remember that Ren-W was created to be more of an extension to an existing, wired system than as a complete replacement of it. Wireless connections are never as secure as hard-wired connections are and periodically, data drop-outs can and likely will occur because wireless data transfer is inherently much more complex. But used in the right situations, Ren-W can be an effective solution to a wiring logistics problem.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Ren-C Note:&#039;&#039;&#039; When Ren-W is connected to a Ren-C&#039;s RS-IN jack, it is necessary to install a balun on the cable between the Ren-W and the Ren-C. The balun will reduce the EMI interference that the XBee module creates in the cat5 wire. Without the balun, the Ren-C will likely experience framing errors and no communication with the Ren-W. (Radio Shack part# 273-0069)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Additional Ren-W Links&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Renard Wireless Converter]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W BOM and Construction]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Configuration Concepts]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W XBee Radio Configuration]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Questions/Answers]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Troubleshooting]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Antenna Info]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Controller Heater]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8102 Ren-W Topic on the DIYC Forums]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Renard]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Ren-W]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Renard SS8]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Renard SS16]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Renard SS24]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Renard 24]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Renard 48LSD]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Renard 64XC]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Renard64]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Renard16 (xmus)]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:DIYC Index]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Dirknerkle</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=Renard_Wireless_Converter&amp;diff=6935</id>
		<title>Renard Wireless Converter</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=Renard_Wireless_Converter&amp;diff=6935"/>
		<updated>2012-04-24T00:44:57Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Dirknerkle: /* Signal Propagation Delay */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;:[[File:Ren-w_complete.JPG|330px ]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;Why a Wireless Converter?&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:Sometimes it&#039;s not practical, affordable or maybe even possible to lay physical cable to a particular light controller. For example, trenching beneath your driveway to put a megatree on the other side is a messy, dirty and potentially expensive project. Or let&#039;s say you have a pond behind your house and you&#039;d like to put a display on the bank on the other side where there&#039;s already an electrical connection for a circulating fountain. Or maybe your neighbor across the street wants you to help him light his house -- trenching beneath a street or suspending cable above it would probably require multiple permits from your local municipality, if it were allowed at all. Maybe you&#039;ve built a new house and you don&#039;t want to leave a window open so all the cables can be routed through it to the outside. Or perhaps you live in an apartment building or rented condo where drilling a hole through the wall isn&#039;t even an option. These are just some examples of instances where a wireless connection to your outside Renard controller could very likely be the simplest and most affordable choice. That&#039;s why the Ren-W was invented.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;Overview&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:Ren-W is an inexpensive, compact (3”H x 2.5”W), easy-to-build and configure plug-in wireless adapter for Renard controllers and 595/Grinch systems that use Ren-C (see Ren-C note below). It can also be used with other Renard controllers with very slight modifications to the controllers to tap +5v power for the Ren-W. The Ren-W functions as a transparent serial connection between Renard controllers by converting RS-485 serial data into a digital stream, transmitting it wirelessly to another Ren-W where the digital stream is recombined into serial data and fed into the Renard controller’s normal RJ45 input jack (J2) via short cat5 cable, just like it would have been had the computer been hard-wired directly to the controller. In a typical Renard daisy chain design, channel data that a Renard controller can’t use is passed through and out the controller’s data-out RJ45 jack (J1) as RS-485 data, which is then fed back into the Ren-W, retransmitted to the next Ren-W that’s supposed to receive it, where the digital stream is recombined into serial data, etc. and the process is repeated for as many Ren-W adapters as are in the chain. The Ren-W uses inexpensive yet powerful XBee Pro wireless radio modules to perform the actual wireless transmission/reception functions. The cost to build a single Ren-W board varies from about $27 to $73, depending on the various electronic components chosen.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;DMX&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
:Ren-W is NOT compatible with DMX systems as DMX requires data speeds upwards of 250kbps. The XBee radio that Ren-W uses for wireless communication cannot support streaming data at that speed; it tops out at around 80kbps, which means that 57,600 baud is the highest communication speed Ren-W can support.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;Compatibility with various Renard Controllers&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:The Ren-W has been successfully tested with the following controllers:&lt;br /&gt;
:* WayneJ&#039;s Renard SS8, SS16 and SS24&lt;br /&gt;
:* Wjohn&#039;s Ren-C in either a Ren-C/Olsen 595 or Ren-C/Grinch setup&lt;br /&gt;
:* Wjohn&#039;s Ren64 ver XC5&lt;br /&gt;
:* Frank Kostyun&#039;s Ren24, versions 3.0 and 3.3, and the Ren24LV&lt;br /&gt;
:* Budude&#039;s Ren48LSD v3b&lt;br /&gt;
:* Renard Simple24 and Renard Simple32 by Mactayl and TStraub&lt;br /&gt;
:* CTMal&#039;s RenServo&lt;br /&gt;
:* Other Renard boards that use similar serial input/output circuitry should also work.&lt;br /&gt;
:* The following serial port parameters are highly suggested: Baud: 57600, Parity: Mark, Stop bits: 2&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;Renard basics and how they relate to Ren-W&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:In standard operation when multiple Renard SS controllers are daisy chained from one into the next, each controller uses the first X number of Vixen channels it receives where X is the number of channels the controller is designed to control. This is always a multiple of 8 because of the Renard program code and the PIC16F688 chips used in the SS controllers. The channels it can’t use are passed along to the next controller. Therefore, the order in which you chain one controller into the next can make a difference, and even more dramatically if the controllers have different channel counts. For example, if you had an SS8 and an SS24 (total 32 channels) and the first controller was the SS8 which daisy chained into the SS24, the SS8 will use the first 8 channels (1-8) and the SS24 would get the overflow channels 9-32. However, if the order was reversed and the SS24 was the first controller which daisy chained into the SS8, the SS24 will use the first 24 channels (1-24) and the SS8 would get the overflow channels 25-32.  The Ren-W simulates the daisy chain concept with “Point-to-point broadcasting” (PTP or Alternate PTP) because the Ren-W boards’ XBee radios are configured to provide exactly the same daisy chain logic, just as if you were connecting the controllers with cat5 cable to daisy chain one into the next, etc. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:To make two (or more) Renard controllers respond identically with the same Vixen commands, Vixen users usually replicate the Vixen channel information that controls one Renard to the corresponding channels that control the other Renards. However, what if you could use a “signal splitter” cable that distributed the same serial signal to multiple controllers, not unlike the concept of a “multi-outlet serial plug strip?” (Splitting an actual, stock serial signal to multiple devices without additional amplification is certainly possible but is generally a discouraged practice – the concept is used here for the illustration.) With such a splitter, each SS controller plugged into the “multi-outlet serial strip” would receive exactly the same channel information at the same time, just as if each was connected directly to the computer’s serial port. In the 32-channel example above however, since the SS8 has only 8 channels, it would be able to use only Vixen channels 1-8 while the SS24 would be able to use channels 1-24, &#039;&#039;and channels 25-32 would not be used by either controller.&#039;&#039; The “serial signal splitter” concept can be accomplished wirelessly quite easily; Ren-W refers to this as &#039;&#039;“Global Broadcasting.”&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:A version of Renard firmware is available that makes &amp;quot;global broadcasting&amp;quot; possible while still retaining individual channel control. The firmware is an ideal match for the Ren-W and uses a &amp;quot;start address&amp;quot; concept where you set the starting channel number for the controller(s). For more information read the configuration guide: [http://www.christmasinshirley.com/wiki/index.php?title=Renard_Start_Address_Configuration_Guide Start Address Configuration Guide]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;XBee Wireless Radio Module Basics&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:XBee radio modules are essentially addressable wireless serial modems. Ren-W uses XBee radios as a “serial line replacement” to the normal cat5 wiring used to connect Renard controllers. XBees can communicate with one another on a one to one, one to many, or one to all &amp;quot;global broadcast&amp;quot; mode, depending on how each module is configured. The XBee’s configuration flexibility makes it possible to configure a Ren-W network so that multiple Renard controllers respond to the same channels or the network may be configured so that each controller has its own range of channels, which is more in keeping with normal Renard use. XBee radios are designed to accommodate streaming serial data up to 80kbps. Therefore, for best results, set your computer and Renard controllers at 57,600 baud; at 115,200 you may encounter erratic behavior.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;Ren-W Operating Modes&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;&#039;Receive only mode:&#039;&#039;&#039; only one XBee module is required, plugged into the XBee RX (right) side of the Ren-W board.&lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;&#039;Transmit only mode:&#039;&#039;&#039; only one XBee module is required, plugged into the XBee TX (left) side of the Ren-W board.&lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;&#039;Repeater mode:&#039;&#039;&#039; two XBee modules are needed, one for each side of the Ren-W board. One will receive, the other will retransmit the Vixen commands to the next Ren-W. This applies only to the SMA board, the only board that has space for two Xbee modules.&lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;&#039;E-mode repeater:&#039;&#039;&#039;  only one XBee module is needed to perform the repeater functions, plugged into the XBee TX (left) side of the Ren-W board. Because a single XBee module must perform receive/transmit sequentially instead of simultaneously, small periodic delays in propagating the Vixen commands to the next Ren-W unit may occur. Note also that E-mode requires the use of the alternate PTP configuration scheme, outlined below, as well as a jumper across JP5. Only the SMA board can operate in e-mode.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;Signal Propagation Delay&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:An XBee module can require up to 6ms to process received data; normally it&#039;s 2-3ms. While this is a very short period of time, consider that the delay is cumulative when multiple Ren-W nodes are configured in repeater mode. For example, in a Ren-W network of 5 nodes, the last SS controller could be nearly 30ms late in reacting to Vixen control commands. This may not be very perceptible in some situations but in others, it could become quite noticeable and the delay should be factored into the general design of a Ren-W network, and possibly during the light sequencing design as well. Note that in global broadcast mode, the delay is [[not]] cumulative as all receiving Ren-Ws would receive the Vixen commands simultaneously and each unit would only be 2-3ms (or less) late. In actual testing, the delay was virtually undetectable to the naked eye.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;Selecting the right XBee Modules - Which Do I Need?&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:XBee RF modules come in a standard and a &amp;quot;pro&amp;quot; version, and they operate in the 2.4ghz frequency spectrum. The modules do not interfere with wireless computer networks that also operate at 2.4ghz. The lower-powered standard version is said to have a line-of-sight transmission range upwards of 300 feet while the more powerful “pro” version is only ¼” larger and has a line-of-sight range upwards of a mile. In actual use, the distances are quite probably less than the stated specifications, especially considering the modules will likely be housed inside a protective non-metallic box of some kind. Mounting inside a metal box is not advised as it will severely hamper effective transmission distance.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:xbee_radio_modules.JPG|750px ]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:The antenna type on an XBee module can make a difference, too. (Be sure to read the pages about antennas!) The short, 1&amp;quot; wire antenna will provide better coverage than the flat, on-chip antenna. A version is also available with an antenna connector, presumably for a external directional antenna and even greater range potential. There is no significant price difference for the different antenna types and all are available for both the standard and pro versions. Suggestion: If using the Ren-W in normal repeater mode, consider using the lower powered, lesser expensive standard module for receiving and the more powerful pro module for transmitting, depending, of course, on the transmission distance needed. A special version of the Ren-W board is available for those who want to try an external antenna, using XBee modules that have the SMA antenna connector. Because of the length of this connector, the board has been reengineered so that the XBee modules point downward:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::::[[File:Ren-w_sma.JPG|310px ]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:Other than the power difference and slightly larger physical size of the “pro” version, the modules are interchangeable, pin-for-pin identical, and the configuration settings are identical as well. &#039;&#039;&#039;However, consider that the “pro” version has 10x the transmitting power of its lower-powered sibling, and it has a more sensitive receiver, too. These two factors make it the XBee module of choice for the Ren-W.&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:It’s important to remember that Ren-W was created to be more of an extension to an existing, wired system than as a complete replacement of it. Wireless connections are never as secure as hard-wired connections are and periodically, data drop-outs can and likely will occur because wireless data transfer is inherently much more complex. But used in the right situations, Ren-W can be an effective solution to a wiring logistics problem.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Ren-C Note:&#039;&#039;&#039; When Ren-W is connected to a Ren-C&#039;s RS-IN jack, it is necessary to install a balun on the cable between the Ren-W and the Ren-C. The balun will reduce the EMI interference that the XBee module creates in the cat5 wire. Without the balun, the Ren-C will likely experience framing errors and no communication with the Ren-W. (Radio Shack part# 273-0069)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Additional Ren-W Links&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Renard Wireless Converter]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W BOM and Construction]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Configuration Concepts]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W XBee Radio Configuration]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Questions/Answers]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Troubleshooting]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Antenna Info]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Controller Heater]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8102 Ren-W Topic on the DIYC Forums]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Renard]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Ren-W]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Renard SS8]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Renard SS16]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Renard SS24]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Renard 24]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Renard 48LSD]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Renard 64XC]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Renard64]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Renard16 (xmus)]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:DIYC Index]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Dirknerkle</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=Renard_Wireless_Converter&amp;diff=6934</id>
		<title>Renard Wireless Converter</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=Renard_Wireless_Converter&amp;diff=6934"/>
		<updated>2012-04-24T00:43:04Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Dirknerkle: /* Compatibility with various Renard Controllers */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;:[[File:Ren-w_complete.JPG|330px ]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;Why a Wireless Converter?&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:Sometimes it&#039;s not practical, affordable or maybe even possible to lay physical cable to a particular light controller. For example, trenching beneath your driveway to put a megatree on the other side is a messy, dirty and potentially expensive project. Or let&#039;s say you have a pond behind your house and you&#039;d like to put a display on the bank on the other side where there&#039;s already an electrical connection for a circulating fountain. Or maybe your neighbor across the street wants you to help him light his house -- trenching beneath a street or suspending cable above it would probably require multiple permits from your local municipality, if it were allowed at all. Maybe you&#039;ve built a new house and you don&#039;t want to leave a window open so all the cables can be routed through it to the outside. Or perhaps you live in an apartment building or rented condo where drilling a hole through the wall isn&#039;t even an option. These are just some examples of instances where a wireless connection to your outside Renard controller could very likely be the simplest and most affordable choice. That&#039;s why the Ren-W was invented.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;Overview&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:Ren-W is an inexpensive, compact (3”H x 2.5”W), easy-to-build and configure plug-in wireless adapter for Renard controllers and 595/Grinch systems that use Ren-C (see Ren-C note below). It can also be used with other Renard controllers with very slight modifications to the controllers to tap +5v power for the Ren-W. The Ren-W functions as a transparent serial connection between Renard controllers by converting RS-485 serial data into a digital stream, transmitting it wirelessly to another Ren-W where the digital stream is recombined into serial data and fed into the Renard controller’s normal RJ45 input jack (J2) via short cat5 cable, just like it would have been had the computer been hard-wired directly to the controller. In a typical Renard daisy chain design, channel data that a Renard controller can’t use is passed through and out the controller’s data-out RJ45 jack (J1) as RS-485 data, which is then fed back into the Ren-W, retransmitted to the next Ren-W that’s supposed to receive it, where the digital stream is recombined into serial data, etc. and the process is repeated for as many Ren-W adapters as are in the chain. The Ren-W uses inexpensive yet powerful XBee Pro wireless radio modules to perform the actual wireless transmission/reception functions. The cost to build a single Ren-W board varies from about $27 to $73, depending on the various electronic components chosen.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;DMX&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
:Ren-W is NOT compatible with DMX systems as DMX requires data speeds upwards of 250kbps. The XBee radio that Ren-W uses for wireless communication cannot support streaming data at that speed; it tops out at around 80kbps, which means that 57,600 baud is the highest communication speed Ren-W can support.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;Compatibility with various Renard Controllers&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:The Ren-W has been successfully tested with the following controllers:&lt;br /&gt;
:* WayneJ&#039;s Renard SS8, SS16 and SS24&lt;br /&gt;
:* Wjohn&#039;s Ren-C in either a Ren-C/Olsen 595 or Ren-C/Grinch setup&lt;br /&gt;
:* Wjohn&#039;s Ren64 ver XC5&lt;br /&gt;
:* Frank Kostyun&#039;s Ren24, versions 3.0 and 3.3, and the Ren24LV&lt;br /&gt;
:* Budude&#039;s Ren48LSD v3b&lt;br /&gt;
:* Renard Simple24 and Renard Simple32 by Mactayl and TStraub&lt;br /&gt;
:* CTMal&#039;s RenServo&lt;br /&gt;
:* Other Renard boards that use similar serial input/output circuitry should also work.&lt;br /&gt;
:* The following serial port parameters are highly suggested: Baud: 57600, Parity: Mark, Stop bits: 2&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;Renard basics and how they relate to Ren-W&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:In standard operation when multiple Renard SS controllers are daisy chained from one into the next, each controller uses the first X number of Vixen channels it receives where X is the number of channels the controller is designed to control. This is always a multiple of 8 because of the Renard program code and the PIC16F688 chips used in the SS controllers. The channels it can’t use are passed along to the next controller. Therefore, the order in which you chain one controller into the next can make a difference, and even more dramatically if the controllers have different channel counts. For example, if you had an SS8 and an SS24 (total 32 channels) and the first controller was the SS8 which daisy chained into the SS24, the SS8 will use the first 8 channels (1-8) and the SS24 would get the overflow channels 9-32. However, if the order was reversed and the SS24 was the first controller which daisy chained into the SS8, the SS24 will use the first 24 channels (1-24) and the SS8 would get the overflow channels 25-32.  The Ren-W simulates the daisy chain concept with “Point-to-point broadcasting” (PTP or Alternate PTP) because the Ren-W boards’ XBee radios are configured to provide exactly the same daisy chain logic, just as if you were connecting the controllers with cat5 cable to daisy chain one into the next, etc. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:To make two (or more) Renard controllers respond identically with the same Vixen commands, Vixen users usually replicate the Vixen channel information that controls one Renard to the corresponding channels that control the other Renards. However, what if you could use a “signal splitter” cable that distributed the same serial signal to multiple controllers, not unlike the concept of a “multi-outlet serial plug strip?” (Splitting an actual, stock serial signal to multiple devices without additional amplification is certainly possible but is generally a discouraged practice – the concept is used here for the illustration.) With such a splitter, each SS controller plugged into the “multi-outlet serial strip” would receive exactly the same channel information at the same time, just as if each was connected directly to the computer’s serial port. In the 32-channel example above however, since the SS8 has only 8 channels, it would be able to use only Vixen channels 1-8 while the SS24 would be able to use channels 1-24, &#039;&#039;and channels 25-32 would not be used by either controller.&#039;&#039; The “serial signal splitter” concept can be accomplished wirelessly quite easily; Ren-W refers to this as &#039;&#039;“Global Broadcasting.”&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:A version of Renard firmware is available that makes &amp;quot;global broadcasting&amp;quot; possible while still retaining individual channel control. The firmware is an ideal match for the Ren-W and uses a &amp;quot;start address&amp;quot; concept where you set the starting channel number for the controller(s). For more information read the configuration guide: [http://www.christmasinshirley.com/wiki/index.php?title=Renard_Start_Address_Configuration_Guide Start Address Configuration Guide]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;XBee Wireless Radio Module Basics&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:XBee radio modules are essentially addressable wireless serial modems. Ren-W uses XBee radios as a “serial line replacement” to the normal cat5 wiring used to connect Renard controllers. XBees can communicate with one another on a one to one, one to many, or one to all &amp;quot;global broadcast&amp;quot; mode, depending on how each module is configured. The XBee’s configuration flexibility makes it possible to configure a Ren-W network so that multiple Renard controllers respond to the same channels or the network may be configured so that each controller has its own range of channels, which is more in keeping with normal Renard use. XBee radios are designed to accommodate streaming serial data up to 80kbps. Therefore, for best results, set your computer and Renard controllers at 57,600 baud; at 115,200 you may encounter erratic behavior.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;Ren-W Operating Modes&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;&#039;Receive only mode:&#039;&#039;&#039; only one XBee module is required, plugged into the XBee RX (right) side of the Ren-W board.&lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;&#039;Transmit only mode:&#039;&#039;&#039; only one XBee module is required, plugged into the XBee TX (left) side of the Ren-W board.&lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;&#039;Repeater mode:&#039;&#039;&#039; two XBee modules are needed, one for each side of the Ren-W board. One will receive, the other will retransmit the Vixen commands to the next Ren-W. This applies only to the SMA board, the only board that has space for two Xbee modules.&lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;&#039;E-mode repeater:&#039;&#039;&#039;  only one XBee module is needed to perform the repeater functions, plugged into the XBee TX (left) side of the Ren-W board. Because a single XBee module must perform receive/transmit sequentially instead of simultaneously, small periodic delays in propagating the Vixen commands to the next Ren-W unit may occur. Note also that E-mode requires the use of the alternate PTP configuration scheme, outlined below, as well as a jumper across JP5. Only the SMA board can operate in e-mode.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;Signal Propagation Delay&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:An XBee module can require up to 6ms to process received data. While this is a very short period of time, consider that the delay is cumulative when multiple Ren-W nodes are configured in repeater mode. For example, in a Ren-W network of 5 nodes, the last SS controller could be nearly 30ms late in reacting to Vixen control commands. This may not be very perceptible in some situations but in others, it could become quite noticeable and the delay should be factored into the general design of a Ren-W network, and possibly during the light sequencing design as well. Note that in global broadcast mode, the delay is not cumulative as all receiving Ren-Ws would receive the Vixen commands simultaneously and each unit would only be 6ms (or less) late. In actual testing, the delay was virtually undetectable to the naked eye.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;Selecting the right XBee Modules - Which Do I Need?&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:XBee RF modules come in a standard and a &amp;quot;pro&amp;quot; version, and they operate in the 2.4ghz frequency spectrum. The modules do not interfere with wireless computer networks that also operate at 2.4ghz. The lower-powered standard version is said to have a line-of-sight transmission range upwards of 300 feet while the more powerful “pro” version is only ¼” larger and has a line-of-sight range upwards of a mile. In actual use, the distances are quite probably less than the stated specifications, especially considering the modules will likely be housed inside a protective non-metallic box of some kind. Mounting inside a metal box is not advised as it will severely hamper effective transmission distance.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:xbee_radio_modules.JPG|750px ]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:The antenna type on an XBee module can make a difference, too. (Be sure to read the pages about antennas!) The short, 1&amp;quot; wire antenna will provide better coverage than the flat, on-chip antenna. A version is also available with an antenna connector, presumably for a external directional antenna and even greater range potential. There is no significant price difference for the different antenna types and all are available for both the standard and pro versions. Suggestion: If using the Ren-W in normal repeater mode, consider using the lower powered, lesser expensive standard module for receiving and the more powerful pro module for transmitting, depending, of course, on the transmission distance needed. A special version of the Ren-W board is available for those who want to try an external antenna, using XBee modules that have the SMA antenna connector. Because of the length of this connector, the board has been reengineered so that the XBee modules point downward:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::::[[File:Ren-w_sma.JPG|310px ]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:Other than the power difference and slightly larger physical size of the “pro” version, the modules are interchangeable, pin-for-pin identical, and the configuration settings are identical as well. &#039;&#039;&#039;However, consider that the “pro” version has 10x the transmitting power of its lower-powered sibling, and it has a more sensitive receiver, too. These two factors make it the XBee module of choice for the Ren-W.&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:It’s important to remember that Ren-W was created to be more of an extension to an existing, wired system than as a complete replacement of it. Wireless connections are never as secure as hard-wired connections are and periodically, data drop-outs can and likely will occur because wireless data transfer is inherently much more complex. But used in the right situations, Ren-W can be an effective solution to a wiring logistics problem.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Ren-C Note:&#039;&#039;&#039; When Ren-W is connected to a Ren-C&#039;s RS-IN jack, it is necessary to install a balun on the cable between the Ren-W and the Ren-C. The balun will reduce the EMI interference that the XBee module creates in the cat5 wire. Without the balun, the Ren-C will likely experience framing errors and no communication with the Ren-W. (Radio Shack part# 273-0069)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Additional Ren-W Links&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Renard Wireless Converter]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W BOM and Construction]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Configuration Concepts]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W XBee Radio Configuration]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Questions/Answers]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Troubleshooting]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Antenna Info]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Controller Heater]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8102 Ren-W Topic on the DIYC Forums]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Renard]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Ren-W]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Renard SS8]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Renard SS16]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Renard SS24]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Renard 24]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Renard 48LSD]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Renard 64XC]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Renard64]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Renard16 (xmus)]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:DIYC Index]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Dirknerkle</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=Renard_Wireless_Converter&amp;diff=6933</id>
		<title>Renard Wireless Converter</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=Renard_Wireless_Converter&amp;diff=6933"/>
		<updated>2012-04-24T00:41:27Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Dirknerkle: /* Overview */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;:[[File:Ren-w_complete.JPG|330px ]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;Why a Wireless Converter?&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:Sometimes it&#039;s not practical, affordable or maybe even possible to lay physical cable to a particular light controller. For example, trenching beneath your driveway to put a megatree on the other side is a messy, dirty and potentially expensive project. Or let&#039;s say you have a pond behind your house and you&#039;d like to put a display on the bank on the other side where there&#039;s already an electrical connection for a circulating fountain. Or maybe your neighbor across the street wants you to help him light his house -- trenching beneath a street or suspending cable above it would probably require multiple permits from your local municipality, if it were allowed at all. Maybe you&#039;ve built a new house and you don&#039;t want to leave a window open so all the cables can be routed through it to the outside. Or perhaps you live in an apartment building or rented condo where drilling a hole through the wall isn&#039;t even an option. These are just some examples of instances where a wireless connection to your outside Renard controller could very likely be the simplest and most affordable choice. That&#039;s why the Ren-W was invented.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;Overview&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:Ren-W is an inexpensive, compact (3”H x 2.5”W), easy-to-build and configure plug-in wireless adapter for Renard controllers and 595/Grinch systems that use Ren-C (see Ren-C note below). It can also be used with other Renard controllers with very slight modifications to the controllers to tap +5v power for the Ren-W. The Ren-W functions as a transparent serial connection between Renard controllers by converting RS-485 serial data into a digital stream, transmitting it wirelessly to another Ren-W where the digital stream is recombined into serial data and fed into the Renard controller’s normal RJ45 input jack (J2) via short cat5 cable, just like it would have been had the computer been hard-wired directly to the controller. In a typical Renard daisy chain design, channel data that a Renard controller can’t use is passed through and out the controller’s data-out RJ45 jack (J1) as RS-485 data, which is then fed back into the Ren-W, retransmitted to the next Ren-W that’s supposed to receive it, where the digital stream is recombined into serial data, etc. and the process is repeated for as many Ren-W adapters as are in the chain. The Ren-W uses inexpensive yet powerful XBee Pro wireless radio modules to perform the actual wireless transmission/reception functions. The cost to build a single Ren-W board varies from about $27 to $73, depending on the various electronic components chosen.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;DMX&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
:Ren-W is NOT compatible with DMX systems as DMX requires data speeds upwards of 250kbps. The XBee radio that Ren-W uses for wireless communication cannot support streaming data at that speed; it tops out at around 80kbps, which means that 57,600 baud is the highest communication speed Ren-W can support.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;Compatibility with various Renard Controllers&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:The Ren-W has been successfully tested with the following controllers:&lt;br /&gt;
:* WayneJ&#039;s Renard SS8, SS16 and SS24&lt;br /&gt;
:* Wjohn&#039;s Ren-C in either a Ren-C/Olsen 595 or Ren-C/Grinch setup&lt;br /&gt;
:* Wjohn&#039;s Ren64 ver XC5&lt;br /&gt;
:* Frank Kostyun&#039;s Ren24, versions 3.0 and 3.3, and the Ren24LV&lt;br /&gt;
:* Budude&#039;s Ren48LSD v3b&lt;br /&gt;
:* Renard Simple24 and Renard Simple32&lt;br /&gt;
:* Other Renard boards that use similar serial input/output circuitry should also work.&lt;br /&gt;
:* The following serial port parameters are highly suggested: Baud: 57600, Parity: Mark, Stop bits: 2&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;Renard basics and how they relate to Ren-W&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:In standard operation when multiple Renard SS controllers are daisy chained from one into the next, each controller uses the first X number of Vixen channels it receives where X is the number of channels the controller is designed to control. This is always a multiple of 8 because of the Renard program code and the PIC16F688 chips used in the SS controllers. The channels it can’t use are passed along to the next controller. Therefore, the order in which you chain one controller into the next can make a difference, and even more dramatically if the controllers have different channel counts. For example, if you had an SS8 and an SS24 (total 32 channels) and the first controller was the SS8 which daisy chained into the SS24, the SS8 will use the first 8 channels (1-8) and the SS24 would get the overflow channels 9-32. However, if the order was reversed and the SS24 was the first controller which daisy chained into the SS8, the SS24 will use the first 24 channels (1-24) and the SS8 would get the overflow channels 25-32.  The Ren-W simulates the daisy chain concept with “Point-to-point broadcasting” (PTP or Alternate PTP) because the Ren-W boards’ XBee radios are configured to provide exactly the same daisy chain logic, just as if you were connecting the controllers with cat5 cable to daisy chain one into the next, etc. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:To make two (or more) Renard controllers respond identically with the same Vixen commands, Vixen users usually replicate the Vixen channel information that controls one Renard to the corresponding channels that control the other Renards. However, what if you could use a “signal splitter” cable that distributed the same serial signal to multiple controllers, not unlike the concept of a “multi-outlet serial plug strip?” (Splitting an actual, stock serial signal to multiple devices without additional amplification is certainly possible but is generally a discouraged practice – the concept is used here for the illustration.) With such a splitter, each SS controller plugged into the “multi-outlet serial strip” would receive exactly the same channel information at the same time, just as if each was connected directly to the computer’s serial port. In the 32-channel example above however, since the SS8 has only 8 channels, it would be able to use only Vixen channels 1-8 while the SS24 would be able to use channels 1-24, &#039;&#039;and channels 25-32 would not be used by either controller.&#039;&#039; The “serial signal splitter” concept can be accomplished wirelessly quite easily; Ren-W refers to this as &#039;&#039;“Global Broadcasting.”&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:A version of Renard firmware is available that makes &amp;quot;global broadcasting&amp;quot; possible while still retaining individual channel control. The firmware is an ideal match for the Ren-W and uses a &amp;quot;start address&amp;quot; concept where you set the starting channel number for the controller(s). For more information read the configuration guide: [http://www.christmasinshirley.com/wiki/index.php?title=Renard_Start_Address_Configuration_Guide Start Address Configuration Guide]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;XBee Wireless Radio Module Basics&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:XBee radio modules are essentially addressable wireless serial modems. Ren-W uses XBee radios as a “serial line replacement” to the normal cat5 wiring used to connect Renard controllers. XBees can communicate with one another on a one to one, one to many, or one to all &amp;quot;global broadcast&amp;quot; mode, depending on how each module is configured. The XBee’s configuration flexibility makes it possible to configure a Ren-W network so that multiple Renard controllers respond to the same channels or the network may be configured so that each controller has its own range of channels, which is more in keeping with normal Renard use. XBee radios are designed to accommodate streaming serial data up to 80kbps. Therefore, for best results, set your computer and Renard controllers at 57,600 baud; at 115,200 you may encounter erratic behavior.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;Ren-W Operating Modes&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;&#039;Receive only mode:&#039;&#039;&#039; only one XBee module is required, plugged into the XBee RX (right) side of the Ren-W board.&lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;&#039;Transmit only mode:&#039;&#039;&#039; only one XBee module is required, plugged into the XBee TX (left) side of the Ren-W board.&lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;&#039;Repeater mode:&#039;&#039;&#039; two XBee modules are needed, one for each side of the Ren-W board. One will receive, the other will retransmit the Vixen commands to the next Ren-W. This applies only to the SMA board, the only board that has space for two Xbee modules.&lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;&#039;E-mode repeater:&#039;&#039;&#039;  only one XBee module is needed to perform the repeater functions, plugged into the XBee TX (left) side of the Ren-W board. Because a single XBee module must perform receive/transmit sequentially instead of simultaneously, small periodic delays in propagating the Vixen commands to the next Ren-W unit may occur. Note also that E-mode requires the use of the alternate PTP configuration scheme, outlined below, as well as a jumper across JP5. Only the SMA board can operate in e-mode.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;Signal Propagation Delay&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:An XBee module can require up to 6ms to process received data. While this is a very short period of time, consider that the delay is cumulative when multiple Ren-W nodes are configured in repeater mode. For example, in a Ren-W network of 5 nodes, the last SS controller could be nearly 30ms late in reacting to Vixen control commands. This may not be very perceptible in some situations but in others, it could become quite noticeable and the delay should be factored into the general design of a Ren-W network, and possibly during the light sequencing design as well. Note that in global broadcast mode, the delay is not cumulative as all receiving Ren-Ws would receive the Vixen commands simultaneously and each unit would only be 6ms (or less) late. In actual testing, the delay was virtually undetectable to the naked eye.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;Selecting the right XBee Modules - Which Do I Need?&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:XBee RF modules come in a standard and a &amp;quot;pro&amp;quot; version, and they operate in the 2.4ghz frequency spectrum. The modules do not interfere with wireless computer networks that also operate at 2.4ghz. The lower-powered standard version is said to have a line-of-sight transmission range upwards of 300 feet while the more powerful “pro” version is only ¼” larger and has a line-of-sight range upwards of a mile. In actual use, the distances are quite probably less than the stated specifications, especially considering the modules will likely be housed inside a protective non-metallic box of some kind. Mounting inside a metal box is not advised as it will severely hamper effective transmission distance.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:xbee_radio_modules.JPG|750px ]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:The antenna type on an XBee module can make a difference, too. (Be sure to read the pages about antennas!) The short, 1&amp;quot; wire antenna will provide better coverage than the flat, on-chip antenna. A version is also available with an antenna connector, presumably for a external directional antenna and even greater range potential. There is no significant price difference for the different antenna types and all are available for both the standard and pro versions. Suggestion: If using the Ren-W in normal repeater mode, consider using the lower powered, lesser expensive standard module for receiving and the more powerful pro module for transmitting, depending, of course, on the transmission distance needed. A special version of the Ren-W board is available for those who want to try an external antenna, using XBee modules that have the SMA antenna connector. Because of the length of this connector, the board has been reengineered so that the XBee modules point downward:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::::[[File:Ren-w_sma.JPG|310px ]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:Other than the power difference and slightly larger physical size of the “pro” version, the modules are interchangeable, pin-for-pin identical, and the configuration settings are identical as well. &#039;&#039;&#039;However, consider that the “pro” version has 10x the transmitting power of its lower-powered sibling, and it has a more sensitive receiver, too. These two factors make it the XBee module of choice for the Ren-W.&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:It’s important to remember that Ren-W was created to be more of an extension to an existing, wired system than as a complete replacement of it. Wireless connections are never as secure as hard-wired connections are and periodically, data drop-outs can and likely will occur because wireless data transfer is inherently much more complex. But used in the right situations, Ren-W can be an effective solution to a wiring logistics problem.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Ren-C Note:&#039;&#039;&#039; When Ren-W is connected to a Ren-C&#039;s RS-IN jack, it is necessary to install a balun on the cable between the Ren-W and the Ren-C. The balun will reduce the EMI interference that the XBee module creates in the cat5 wire. Without the balun, the Ren-C will likely experience framing errors and no communication with the Ren-W. (Radio Shack part# 273-0069)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Additional Ren-W Links&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Renard Wireless Converter]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W BOM and Construction]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Configuration Concepts]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W XBee Radio Configuration]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Questions/Answers]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Troubleshooting]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Antenna Info]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Controller Heater]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8102 Ren-W Topic on the DIYC Forums]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Renard]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Ren-W]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Renard SS8]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Renard SS16]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Renard SS24]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Renard 24]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Renard 48LSD]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Renard 64XC]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Renard64]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Renard16 (xmus)]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:DIYC Index]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Dirknerkle</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=Renard_Wireless_Converter&amp;diff=6932</id>
		<title>Renard Wireless Converter</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=Renard_Wireless_Converter&amp;diff=6932"/>
		<updated>2012-04-24T00:40:46Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Dirknerkle: /* Overview */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;:[[File:Ren-w_complete.JPG|330px ]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;Why a Wireless Converter?&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:Sometimes it&#039;s not practical, affordable or maybe even possible to lay physical cable to a particular light controller. For example, trenching beneath your driveway to put a megatree on the other side is a messy, dirty and potentially expensive project. Or let&#039;s say you have a pond behind your house and you&#039;d like to put a display on the bank on the other side where there&#039;s already an electrical connection for a circulating fountain. Or maybe your neighbor across the street wants you to help him light his house -- trenching beneath a street or suspending cable above it would probably require multiple permits from your local municipality, if it were allowed at all. Maybe you&#039;ve built a new house and you don&#039;t want to leave a window open so all the cables can be routed through it to the outside. Or perhaps you live in an apartment building or rented condo where drilling a hole through the wall isn&#039;t even an option. These are just some examples of instances where a wireless connection to your outside Renard controller could very likely be the simplest and most affordable choice. That&#039;s why the Ren-W was invented.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;Overview&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:Ren-W is an inexpensive, compact (3”H x 2.5”W), easy-to-build and configure plug-in wireless adapter for Renard controllers and 595/Grinch systems that use Ren-C (see Ren-C note below). It can also be used with other Renard controllers with very slight modifications to the controllers to tap +5v power for the Ren-W. The Ren-W functions as a transparent serial connection between Renard controllers by converting RS-485 serial data into a digital stream, transmitting it wirelessly to another Ren-W where the digital stream is recombined into serial data and fed into the Renard controller’s normal RJ45 input jack (J2) via short cat5 cable, just like it would have been had the computer been hard-wired directly to the controller. In a typical Renard daisy chain design, channel data that a Renard controller can’t use is passed through and out the controller’s data-out RJ45 jack (J1) as RS-485 data, which is then fed back into the Ren-W, retransmitted to the next Ren-W that’s supposed to receive it, where the digital stream is recombined into serial data, etc. and the process is repeated for as many Ren-W adapters as are in the chain. The Ren-W uses inexpensive yet powerful XBee Pro wireless radio modules to perform the actual wireless transmission/reception functions. The cost to build a single Ren-W board varies from about $27 to $73, depending on the various electronic components chosen.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:Ren-W is NOT compatible with DMX systems as DMX requires data speeds upwards of 250kbps. The XBee radio that Ren-W uses for wireless communication cannot support streaming data at that speed; it tops out at around 80kbps, which means that 57,600 baud is the highest communication speed Ren-W can support.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;Compatibility with various Renard Controllers&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:The Ren-W has been successfully tested with the following controllers:&lt;br /&gt;
:* WayneJ&#039;s Renard SS8, SS16 and SS24&lt;br /&gt;
:* Wjohn&#039;s Ren-C in either a Ren-C/Olsen 595 or Ren-C/Grinch setup&lt;br /&gt;
:* Wjohn&#039;s Ren64 ver XC5&lt;br /&gt;
:* Frank Kostyun&#039;s Ren24, versions 3.0 and 3.3, and the Ren24LV&lt;br /&gt;
:* Budude&#039;s Ren48LSD v3b&lt;br /&gt;
:* Renard Simple24 and Renard Simple32&lt;br /&gt;
:* Other Renard boards that use similar serial input/output circuitry should also work.&lt;br /&gt;
:* The following serial port parameters are highly suggested: Baud: 57600, Parity: Mark, Stop bits: 2&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;Renard basics and how they relate to Ren-W&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:In standard operation when multiple Renard SS controllers are daisy chained from one into the next, each controller uses the first X number of Vixen channels it receives where X is the number of channels the controller is designed to control. This is always a multiple of 8 because of the Renard program code and the PIC16F688 chips used in the SS controllers. The channels it can’t use are passed along to the next controller. Therefore, the order in which you chain one controller into the next can make a difference, and even more dramatically if the controllers have different channel counts. For example, if you had an SS8 and an SS24 (total 32 channels) and the first controller was the SS8 which daisy chained into the SS24, the SS8 will use the first 8 channels (1-8) and the SS24 would get the overflow channels 9-32. However, if the order was reversed and the SS24 was the first controller which daisy chained into the SS8, the SS24 will use the first 24 channels (1-24) and the SS8 would get the overflow channels 25-32.  The Ren-W simulates the daisy chain concept with “Point-to-point broadcasting” (PTP or Alternate PTP) because the Ren-W boards’ XBee radios are configured to provide exactly the same daisy chain logic, just as if you were connecting the controllers with cat5 cable to daisy chain one into the next, etc. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:To make two (or more) Renard controllers respond identically with the same Vixen commands, Vixen users usually replicate the Vixen channel information that controls one Renard to the corresponding channels that control the other Renards. However, what if you could use a “signal splitter” cable that distributed the same serial signal to multiple controllers, not unlike the concept of a “multi-outlet serial plug strip?” (Splitting an actual, stock serial signal to multiple devices without additional amplification is certainly possible but is generally a discouraged practice – the concept is used here for the illustration.) With such a splitter, each SS controller plugged into the “multi-outlet serial strip” would receive exactly the same channel information at the same time, just as if each was connected directly to the computer’s serial port. In the 32-channel example above however, since the SS8 has only 8 channels, it would be able to use only Vixen channels 1-8 while the SS24 would be able to use channels 1-24, &#039;&#039;and channels 25-32 would not be used by either controller.&#039;&#039; The “serial signal splitter” concept can be accomplished wirelessly quite easily; Ren-W refers to this as &#039;&#039;“Global Broadcasting.”&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:A version of Renard firmware is available that makes &amp;quot;global broadcasting&amp;quot; possible while still retaining individual channel control. The firmware is an ideal match for the Ren-W and uses a &amp;quot;start address&amp;quot; concept where you set the starting channel number for the controller(s). For more information read the configuration guide: [http://www.christmasinshirley.com/wiki/index.php?title=Renard_Start_Address_Configuration_Guide Start Address Configuration Guide]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;XBee Wireless Radio Module Basics&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:XBee radio modules are essentially addressable wireless serial modems. Ren-W uses XBee radios as a “serial line replacement” to the normal cat5 wiring used to connect Renard controllers. XBees can communicate with one another on a one to one, one to many, or one to all &amp;quot;global broadcast&amp;quot; mode, depending on how each module is configured. The XBee’s configuration flexibility makes it possible to configure a Ren-W network so that multiple Renard controllers respond to the same channels or the network may be configured so that each controller has its own range of channels, which is more in keeping with normal Renard use. XBee radios are designed to accommodate streaming serial data up to 80kbps. Therefore, for best results, set your computer and Renard controllers at 57,600 baud; at 115,200 you may encounter erratic behavior.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;Ren-W Operating Modes&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;&#039;Receive only mode:&#039;&#039;&#039; only one XBee module is required, plugged into the XBee RX (right) side of the Ren-W board.&lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;&#039;Transmit only mode:&#039;&#039;&#039; only one XBee module is required, plugged into the XBee TX (left) side of the Ren-W board.&lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;&#039;Repeater mode:&#039;&#039;&#039; two XBee modules are needed, one for each side of the Ren-W board. One will receive, the other will retransmit the Vixen commands to the next Ren-W. This applies only to the SMA board, the only board that has space for two Xbee modules.&lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;&#039;E-mode repeater:&#039;&#039;&#039;  only one XBee module is needed to perform the repeater functions, plugged into the XBee TX (left) side of the Ren-W board. Because a single XBee module must perform receive/transmit sequentially instead of simultaneously, small periodic delays in propagating the Vixen commands to the next Ren-W unit may occur. Note also that E-mode requires the use of the alternate PTP configuration scheme, outlined below, as well as a jumper across JP5. Only the SMA board can operate in e-mode.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;Signal Propagation Delay&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:An XBee module can require up to 6ms to process received data. While this is a very short period of time, consider that the delay is cumulative when multiple Ren-W nodes are configured in repeater mode. For example, in a Ren-W network of 5 nodes, the last SS controller could be nearly 30ms late in reacting to Vixen control commands. This may not be very perceptible in some situations but in others, it could become quite noticeable and the delay should be factored into the general design of a Ren-W network, and possibly during the light sequencing design as well. Note that in global broadcast mode, the delay is not cumulative as all receiving Ren-Ws would receive the Vixen commands simultaneously and each unit would only be 6ms (or less) late. In actual testing, the delay was virtually undetectable to the naked eye.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;Selecting the right XBee Modules - Which Do I Need?&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:XBee RF modules come in a standard and a &amp;quot;pro&amp;quot; version, and they operate in the 2.4ghz frequency spectrum. The modules do not interfere with wireless computer networks that also operate at 2.4ghz. The lower-powered standard version is said to have a line-of-sight transmission range upwards of 300 feet while the more powerful “pro” version is only ¼” larger and has a line-of-sight range upwards of a mile. In actual use, the distances are quite probably less than the stated specifications, especially considering the modules will likely be housed inside a protective non-metallic box of some kind. Mounting inside a metal box is not advised as it will severely hamper effective transmission distance.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:xbee_radio_modules.JPG|750px ]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:The antenna type on an XBee module can make a difference, too. (Be sure to read the pages about antennas!) The short, 1&amp;quot; wire antenna will provide better coverage than the flat, on-chip antenna. A version is also available with an antenna connector, presumably for a external directional antenna and even greater range potential. There is no significant price difference for the different antenna types and all are available for both the standard and pro versions. Suggestion: If using the Ren-W in normal repeater mode, consider using the lower powered, lesser expensive standard module for receiving and the more powerful pro module for transmitting, depending, of course, on the transmission distance needed. A special version of the Ren-W board is available for those who want to try an external antenna, using XBee modules that have the SMA antenna connector. Because of the length of this connector, the board has been reengineered so that the XBee modules point downward:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::::[[File:Ren-w_sma.JPG|310px ]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:Other than the power difference and slightly larger physical size of the “pro” version, the modules are interchangeable, pin-for-pin identical, and the configuration settings are identical as well. &#039;&#039;&#039;However, consider that the “pro” version has 10x the transmitting power of its lower-powered sibling, and it has a more sensitive receiver, too. These two factors make it the XBee module of choice for the Ren-W.&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:It’s important to remember that Ren-W was created to be more of an extension to an existing, wired system than as a complete replacement of it. Wireless connections are never as secure as hard-wired connections are and periodically, data drop-outs can and likely will occur because wireless data transfer is inherently much more complex. But used in the right situations, Ren-W can be an effective solution to a wiring logistics problem.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Ren-C Note:&#039;&#039;&#039; When Ren-W is connected to a Ren-C&#039;s RS-IN jack, it is necessary to install a balun on the cable between the Ren-W and the Ren-C. The balun will reduce the EMI interference that the XBee module creates in the cat5 wire. Without the balun, the Ren-C will likely experience framing errors and no communication with the Ren-W. (Radio Shack part# 273-0069)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Additional Ren-W Links&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Renard Wireless Converter]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W BOM and Construction]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Configuration Concepts]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W XBee Radio Configuration]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Questions/Answers]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Troubleshooting]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Antenna Info]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Controller Heater]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8102 Ren-W Topic on the DIYC Forums]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Renard]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Ren-W]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Renard SS8]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Renard SS16]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Renard SS24]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Renard 24]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Renard 48LSD]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Renard 64XC]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Renard64]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Renard16 (xmus)]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:DIYC Index]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Dirknerkle</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=Ren-W_BOM_and_Construction&amp;diff=6931</id>
		<title>Ren-W BOM and Construction</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=Ren-W_BOM_and_Construction&amp;diff=6931"/>
		<updated>2012-04-24T00:37:30Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Dirknerkle: /* Construction Step-by-step - SMA and Rev-6 Boards */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;== &#039;&#039;&#039;Master Parts List (with Ren-W Part# and Mouser Part#)&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Qty --	Description (Ren-W Part)			&lt;br /&gt;
*1 or 2 -- RJ45 jacks, side or top entry (J1, J2)  Mouser# 571-5520251-4  (side entry)  571-5556416-1 (top entry)&lt;br /&gt;
*6 -- 2-pin vertical PCB headers    (JP1-JP6)	Mouser# 538-22-03-2021  (fewer may be necessary – see note below)&lt;br /&gt;
*5 -- 1 uf capacitors (non-polarized - C1, C2, C4, C5, C6)	Mouser# 810-FK24Y5V1H105Z   (Note: 1 uf 16v electrolytic capacitors may be substituted if you wish; polarity markings are provided on the board as a convenience if you use electrolytics.)&lt;br /&gt;
*1 -- 100uf, 16v electrolytic capacitor (C3)	Mouser# 647-UVR1C101MDD&lt;br /&gt;
*1 -- 3.3v 1w zener diode 		(D1)	Mouser# 583-1N4728A-B&lt;br /&gt;
*1 -- 33 ohm ¼w resistor 		(R1)	Mouser# 291-33-RC	(299-33-RC  1/8 watt is also okay)&lt;br /&gt;
*1 -- 1k ohm ¼w resistor (optional) 	(R2)	Mouser# 291-1K-RC	(299-1K-RC  1/8 watt is also okay)&lt;br /&gt;
*1 -- LED (any color – optional) 	(D2)	Mouser# 604-WP7104GT (green transparent)&lt;br /&gt;
*1 -- 16-pin DIP socket (optional)		Mouser# 571-1-390261-4&lt;br /&gt;
*1 -- 3.3v positive voltage regulator (U1)	Mouser# 595-UA78M33CKCSE3&lt;br /&gt;
*1 -- RS-232 Interface ICs Dual EIA-232 Driver	Mouser# 595-MAX232IN&lt;br /&gt;
*1 -- XBee Wireless RF modules	(Pro version w/1&amp;quot; whip antenna is Mouser# 888-XBP24-AWI-001. The SMA version is #888-XBP24-ASI-001)&lt;br /&gt;
*2 -- Female SL Connectors (optional)		Mouser# 538-16-02-0102&lt;br /&gt;
*1 -- Ren-W circuit board			(etch your own in the true DIYC spirit, or contact [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/member.php?3044-dirknerkle &#039;&#039;&#039;dirknerkle&#039;&#039;&#039;] for pre-made boards)&lt;br /&gt;
*2/4 --	2mm x 10-pin XBee female headers 	(H1-H4)	Mouser# M22-7131042 or also available from SparkFun Electronics as part# PRT-08272	($1 each)&lt;br /&gt;
*1 -- Ren-C users: Snap Choke Core Balun - Radio Shack part# 273-0069&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;SUBSTITUTE PARTS&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
* 3.3v voltage regulator: Texas Instruments part # UA78M33CKCS&lt;br /&gt;
* RS-232 chip: Mouser part #: 595-MAX232N&lt;br /&gt;
* RS-232 chip: Mouser part #: 595-MAX232EIN&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Rev6 board BOM Differences&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
::The Rev6 board needs only one RJ45 jack and only two XBee female headers. Otherwise, parts are the same.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:* Here&#039;s a direct link to the complete Mouser BOM: [http://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=e1460aa043 Ren-W BOM]&lt;br /&gt;
:* Here&#039;s a direct link to the Express PCB source file for the STANDARD board: [http://dirknerkle.clubdata.com/pcb/ren-w-master.pcb Ren-W STD PCB file]&lt;br /&gt;
:* Here&#039;s a direct link to the Express PCB source file for the SMA board: [http://dirknerkle.clubdata.com/pcb/ren-w-master-SMA.pcb Ren-W SMA PCB file]&lt;br /&gt;
:* Here&#039;s a direct link to the Express PCB source file for the Rev6 board: [http://dirknerkle.clubdata.com/pcb/ren-w-rev6.pcb Ren-W Rev6 PCB file]&lt;br /&gt;
:* Here&#039;s a direct link to the schematic for the Ren-W board: [http://dirknerkle.clubdata.com/pcb/ren-w_schematic.jpg Ren-W_Schematic.JPG file]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:* Go to [http://www.expresspcb.com www.expresspcb.com] to download their free PCB software to open the PCB file.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;PCB Parts Layout&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
: The only important difference between the standard board and the SMA board is the orientation of the XBee modules. The standard board has the modules pointing upward; the SMA version has them pointing downward to allow for the long RPSMA antenna connector. Pay careful attention to the orientation of the XBee when plugging it into the board. If you have the standard board, plugging in an XBee module with an SMA connector upside-down will NOT WORK. Likewise, plugging in an XBee with a 1&amp;quot; whip the wrong way on an SMA board won&#039;t work, either. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
: The latest Rev6 version of the board has space for only one XBee module and uses a jumper to make the board be either a transmitter (TX) or receiver (RX). The Rev6 board cannot function as a repeater board as it has only one RJ45 jack, but it is about 30% smaller in size and has fewer parts so it&#039;s slightly less expensive to build.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_parts_location.JPG |600px]] [[File:Renwrev6.jpg |225px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;Construction Step-by-step - SMA and Rev-6 Boards&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;&#039;OVERALL CONCEPT:&#039;&#039;&#039; It is usually easist to assemble a circuit board using the &amp;quot;height&amp;quot; concept -- start with the parts that lay lowest or on the board itself, then the parts that stand taller and finishing with the tallest parts, installing them last.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_build-1.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
: The &#039;&#039;&#039;basic&#039;&#039;&#039; construction steps are identical for both the SMA and Rev6 versions of the board; the Rev6 board also uses the same part numbers. Obviously, the Rev6 has fewer parts, and where the parts don&#039;t exist, don&#039;t install them! Caution - the pins on the XBee female headers are quite tiny and require very little solder. Too much solder may flow down and fill the pin hole in the header itself and prevent plugging in the XBee later on.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:1.	Solder 2mm female headers at locations H1, H2, H3, H4 or: &lt;br /&gt;
:::	TX only: only H1, H2 are required&lt;br /&gt;
:::	RX only: only H3, H4 are required&lt;br /&gt;
:::	E-mode repeater: only H1, H2 are required.&lt;br /&gt;
:::	Normal repeater mode: all four headers required&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_build2.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:2.	Solder the 16-pin DIP socket into the MAX232 location. Note the position of pin 1; the notch faces to the right. If no socket is to be used, solder the MAX232 directly to the Ren-W board; verify the pin orientation before soldering.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_build3.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:3.	Solder capacitors C1 and C2. You may wish to straighten the leads to fit the holes better such as the example at the bottom of the picture. There are no polarity concerns for non-polarized capacitors. (Note: The polarity markings on the board are for the convenience of users who are using electrolytic capacitors instead of the non-polarized type.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_build4.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:4. Solder non-polarized capacitors C4, C5 and C6. Like C1 and C2, if electrolytic capacitors are used, observe the + polarity markings on the board. (Note: C4, C5 and C6 do a lot to clean up the RS-232 signal the Ren-W provides to the Renard controller, and these are essential if connecting the Ren-W to a Ren-C/595 or Ren-C/Grinch. Early models of the Ren-W did not utilize C4, C5 and C6 but they are highly suggested to make the MAX232 chip run nice and stable.)&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_build5.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:5.	Solder electrolytic capacitor C3. Note the polarity: the + side into the square pad (top) closer to jack J2 which means the stripe on the capacitor faces DOWN.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_build6.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
:6.	Solder 2-pin headers JP1, JP2, JP3, JP4, JP5, JP6. (Note: JP1 and JP2 are optional.) The header pins are a tight fit; be careful as you wiggle them into their respective holes.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_build7.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:7.	Solder RJ45 jacks J1, J2&lt;br /&gt;
:::	TX only: only J1 is required&lt;br /&gt;
:::	RX only: only J2 is required&lt;br /&gt;
:::	Normal repeater and E-mode repeater: both J1 and J2 are required&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_build8.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:8.	Solder zener diode D1. Note the polarity – on the SMA board, the band on the diode must be facing up, next to header JP6. On the Rev6 board the band on the diode must be facing DOWN, next to header H2.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_build9.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:9.	Solder resistors R1 (orange-orange-black) and R2 (brown-black-red). R2 is only required if the optional power LED (D2) is used. No polarity concerns.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_build10.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:10.	Solder the optional power LED at position D2. Note the polarity – the flat side/cathode/shorter lead faces to the mounting hole immediately to the right of D2.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_build11.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:11.	Solder the 3.3v voltage regulator U1. On the SMA board the metal heat sink side faces toward JP2 (top); on the Rev6 board the metal heat sink side faces toward C3 (right). The need for an additional heat sink is highly unlikely as the supply voltage is only 5vdc. At this point, applying power to the SMA board should light the LED (if installed) and the voltage test points in the middle of the board should register the proper voltages. The Rev6 board requires that the XBee radio be in the sockets; the LED will then blink showing the XBee radio is operational. Disconnect power before continuing with the next step.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_complete.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:12.	Install the MAX232 and XBee module(s) in their respective sockets: use the XBee RX side for a receive-only board, the XBee TX side for a transmit-only board. Note the position of pin 1.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:13.	Install optional jumper shunt at JP6 if necessary. This bypasses the R1 resistor (33 ohms) and allows a weaker RS-485 signal through to the XBee radio in transmit mode. Normally, this jumper shunt is not necessary.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:14.    Install optional jumper shunt at JP5 if necessary. This makes the Ren-W into an E-Mode repeater where a single XBee module in the TX position serves as both the receiver and transmitter.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:15.  CAUTION: Never place jumper shunts across JP1 or JP2!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:16.  CAUTION: Never place jumper shunts across either pin of JP3 to either pin of JP4!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:17.  REV-6 board only: install 2-pin jumper headers at the TX and RX locations.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;Powering the Ren-W board&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:::::[[File:Ren-w_jumper-connector.JPG |200px]]   &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::* A nifty solution that retains the SS controller’s ability to use the diagnostic LEDs is to solder each end of a single strand of cat5 wire to an open jumper shunt such as the photo above. Alternately, you may wish to make your own power cable using two female SL connectors; use a small piece of shrink tubing around the connector for insulation safety. (Both pins on the Ren-W’s JP3 header are +5vdc; both JP4 pins are ground connections.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:::::[[File:Ren-w_mount3.JPG |500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::* With WayneJ&#039;s SS line of boards, the Ren-W draws its +5vdc power from the left pin of the board’s JP3 header (photo above); the ground power connection is made when the Ren-W is connected to either of the SS controller&#039;s RJ45 jacks. If you used the open jumper shunts to make your cable, simply plug the shunts into the JP3 headers on both the SS controller and the Ren-W.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:::::[[File:Ren24LV_5vdc.JPG |250px]] &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::* With Frank Kostyun&#039;s Ren24 ver 3.3, +5vdc can be taken at TP2 (test point 2). You may drill a small hole in the pad if you wish to solder-in a single pin header. With the Ren24LV (photo above) the red circles show places where 5vdc can be found: TP2 and the &amp;quot;Power Tie&amp;quot; (both circled in red in the above photo). The power tie includes six places for jumper header pins, the TOP LEFT of which carries +5vdc (red arrow) Remember, ground is made automatically when the cat5 cable is plugged in.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:::::[[File:Ren64_5vdc.JPG |450px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::* With Wjohn&#039;s Ren64 (version XC5) there is a small, unmarked +5vdc test point immediately below pin 8 of U5 (the rightmost ST485BN chip) and just left of R14. Solder-in a single header pin if you like such as the example above (red circle).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:::::[[File:Ren_c.JPG |450px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::* With Wjohn&#039;s Ren-C, +5vdc can be taken from the header pin immediately to the left of the Q1 transistor. The pin is marked VCC. Another +5vd VCC location is the 2nd from the top pin of the 6-pin JP6 programming header. Either location is fine. Both are marked with red arrows in the photo above.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::* With Budude&#039;s Ren48LSD, if you power the LSD board with 12vdc or less you can solder a single header pin into the test point that&#039;s next to the .1uf capacitor that resides between the voltage regulator and the 2200uf capacitor. The Ren-W&#039;s voltage regulator may get a bit warm but the MAX232 chip can handle 12vdc power and you should be okay. However, if you power the LSD board with more than 12vdc, you must tap power from the +5v side of one of the .1uf capacitors connected to pin 1 of any of the PIC16F688 chips. While not as handy as using the test point, it&#039;s a safer and more accurate way to power the Ren-W from the Ren48LSD.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;Connecting the Ren-W to a Renard SS Controller&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
	&lt;br /&gt;
:* Connect JP3 to JP3 on the SS to power the Ren-W (5vdc).&lt;br /&gt;
:* Ren-W as a transmit only node: connect only J1 to J1 on the SS. Leave J2 on the Ren-W unconnected.&lt;br /&gt;
:* Ren-W as a receive only node: connect only J2 to J2 on the SS. Leave J1 on the Ren-W unconnected.&lt;br /&gt;
:* Ren-W as a standard repeater: connect J1 to J1 and J2 to J2 on the SS. (A standard repeater has TWO XBee modules.)&lt;br /&gt;
:* Ren-W as an E-mode repeater: connect J1 to J1 and J2 to J2 on the SS, add a jumper on the Ren-W’s JP5 and make sure the Ren-W has only a single XBee module plugged into the TX (left) position. (An E-Mode repeater has only ONE XBee module.)&lt;br /&gt;
:* On the SS controller, you may find that the board functions better with JP1 not jumpered (RS-485 mode)but JP2 is jumpered. You can always try JP1 jumpered, but it may not be as effective.&lt;br /&gt;
:* If connecting to the RS-IN of a Ren-C, be sure to affix a snap choke core balun on the cat5 cable (Radio Shack part# 273-0069).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:* Rev6 board only: since this board has only one RJ45 jack (J2), it can be plugged into either the J1 or J2 jack on the Renard controller. If using the Rev6 as a receiver, place a jumper shunt on the RX header and connect J2 to the RS INPUT jack of the controller. If using the Rev6 as a transmitter, place a jumper shunt on the TX header and connect the Rev6&#039;s J2 to the RS OUTPUT jack of the controller. Note that the Rev6 board cannot be used as a &amp;quot;repeater&amp;quot; board which both receives and retransmits out. However, it can be used to transmit from a wired Renard controller to another Ren-W. Of course, a Rev6 can also be a main transmitter board at the PC as well. IMPORTANT: Rev-6 works best when JP2 (the termination resistor) on the SS board is open and not shunted.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;What are JP1, JP2 and JP6 used for?&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::JP1 is an optional RS-485 input connection. Because an XBee module can be programmed via serial communications using a simple AT commands from within a terminal program such as Windows Hyperterminal, these headers provide external access to the R1IN (pin 13, JP1) and T1OUT (pin 14, JP2) serial connections of the MAX232 chip, which in turn, communicates with the XBee module. Both data and ground are provided; ground is the right pin and is marked with G. Using the XCTU software and an XBee programmer board is vastly more convenient that manually configuring a module using AT commands but Digi provides ample documentation for AT command line programming. You can also measure the input voltage of the RS-485 signal at JP1; an acceptable range is +3.3 to +4.8 vdc. It is not expected that this voltage will exceed 5vdc. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::JP2 is an optional RS-232 output connection and can also be used to connect Ren-W to other serial devices. The output voltage is inverted and should be -5.0 to -5.5vdc, depending on the original input voltage.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:::::&#039;&#039;&#039;Caution: never place a shunt jumper across JP1 or JP2, or across either pin of JP3 to either pin of JP4.&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::JP6 is used to bypass the 33ohm resistor R1 which helps moderate the RS-485 serial signal’s current. The combination of R1 and zener diode D1 form a voltage/current protection circuit that limits the serial voltage to a maximum of 3.3 volts before it enters the XBee module’s DIN port. However, not all RS-485 serial signals are of the same voltage and if your serial signal is less than +3.3 volts, you may find that the integrity of transmitted data may increase by placing a shunt jumper on JP6 to bypass resistor R1. If the serial signal is +3.8 vdc or greater, you should leave JP6 open. The XBee module includes a modicum of internal protection and in testing, we found that an XBee can accommodate +5vdc at the input DIN for a short period of time (a few seconds), after which the XBee may stop responding and appear to “lock up.” Temporarily removing power to the board usually resets the XBee so that it will function again.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;Other Voltage Test Points&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::Almost in the exact center of the Ren-W board are three test points marked 5vdc, GND and 3vdc (actually 3.3v). While the actual voltages may vary slightly, the tested values should be very close to those figures. Our prototype measured 4.96v and 3.29v.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;Economy Ren-W Construction&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::If you know exactly how many receive-only and/or transmit-only boards you need and want to save some cash, you can economize by not populating the board with parts that will not be used. For example, below are pictures of stripped-down yet fully functional transmit-only (left) and receive-only (right) boards. Note the parts that are missing on each board. These examples also show the standard XBee radio, not the Pro version, which cuts cost even more, although the standard XBee is quite limited in transmission range. (Price comparison: the Standard Xbee is $19, XBee Pro is $32, XBee Pro with SMA connector is $34.):&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:::[[File:Ren-w_tx_only.JPG |350px]]  [[File:Ren-w_rx_only.JPG |350px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::&#039;&#039;&#039;Bottom line:&#039;&#039;&#039; a fully-populated Ren-W board totals about $43.38 for parts with the XBee Pro radio. If you don&#039;t need the extra power of the Pro version and opt for the standard XBee, you could build a transmit-only or receive-only board for about $26. Home-etch the boards yourself and you could have a fully-functional two-station system for about $50, and using the XBee Pro version would cost only $26 more for the pair. So if you&#039;re on the fence about wireless, you can see that it doesn&#039;t have to cost an arm-and-a-leg.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;Mounting a Ren-W and SS24 Controller in a CG2000 Enclosure&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:(click photos to enlarge)&lt;br /&gt;
:[[File:Ren-w_mount1.JPG |250px]] [[File:Ren-w_mount2.JPG |250px]]  [[File:Ren-w_mount4.JPG |250px]]  &lt;br /&gt;
Using side-entry RJ45s on the Ren-W and looping a cat5 cable from the Ren-W to the SS24, stress is minimized on all RJ45 connectors and the case can easily be fully opened. The Ren-W is mounted at the top of the case, to minimize magnetic interference from the SS24&#039;s transformer, and the SS24 is mounted diagonally in the CG2000 case to allow room for the antenna as well as a little additional distance from the triacs, another potential source of interference. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Additional Ren-W Links&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Renard Wireless Converter]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W BOM and Construction]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Configuration Concepts]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W XBee Radio Configuration]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Questions/Answers]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Troubleshooting]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Antenna Info]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Controller Heater]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8102 Ren-W Topic on the DIYC Forums]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Ren-W]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:DIYC Index]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Dirknerkle</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=Ren-W_BOM_and_Construction&amp;diff=6930</id>
		<title>Ren-W BOM and Construction</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=Ren-W_BOM_and_Construction&amp;diff=6930"/>
		<updated>2012-04-24T00:36:32Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Dirknerkle: /* Construction Step-by-step - SMA and Rev-6 Boards */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;== &#039;&#039;&#039;Master Parts List (with Ren-W Part# and Mouser Part#)&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Qty --	Description (Ren-W Part)			&lt;br /&gt;
*1 or 2 -- RJ45 jacks, side or top entry (J1, J2)  Mouser# 571-5520251-4  (side entry)  571-5556416-1 (top entry)&lt;br /&gt;
*6 -- 2-pin vertical PCB headers    (JP1-JP6)	Mouser# 538-22-03-2021  (fewer may be necessary – see note below)&lt;br /&gt;
*5 -- 1 uf capacitors (non-polarized - C1, C2, C4, C5, C6)	Mouser# 810-FK24Y5V1H105Z   (Note: 1 uf 16v electrolytic capacitors may be substituted if you wish; polarity markings are provided on the board as a convenience if you use electrolytics.)&lt;br /&gt;
*1 -- 100uf, 16v electrolytic capacitor (C3)	Mouser# 647-UVR1C101MDD&lt;br /&gt;
*1 -- 3.3v 1w zener diode 		(D1)	Mouser# 583-1N4728A-B&lt;br /&gt;
*1 -- 33 ohm ¼w resistor 		(R1)	Mouser# 291-33-RC	(299-33-RC  1/8 watt is also okay)&lt;br /&gt;
*1 -- 1k ohm ¼w resistor (optional) 	(R2)	Mouser# 291-1K-RC	(299-1K-RC  1/8 watt is also okay)&lt;br /&gt;
*1 -- LED (any color – optional) 	(D2)	Mouser# 604-WP7104GT (green transparent)&lt;br /&gt;
*1 -- 16-pin DIP socket (optional)		Mouser# 571-1-390261-4&lt;br /&gt;
*1 -- 3.3v positive voltage regulator (U1)	Mouser# 595-UA78M33CKCSE3&lt;br /&gt;
*1 -- RS-232 Interface ICs Dual EIA-232 Driver	Mouser# 595-MAX232IN&lt;br /&gt;
*1 -- XBee Wireless RF modules	(Pro version w/1&amp;quot; whip antenna is Mouser# 888-XBP24-AWI-001. The SMA version is #888-XBP24-ASI-001)&lt;br /&gt;
*2 -- Female SL Connectors (optional)		Mouser# 538-16-02-0102&lt;br /&gt;
*1 -- Ren-W circuit board			(etch your own in the true DIYC spirit, or contact [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/member.php?3044-dirknerkle &#039;&#039;&#039;dirknerkle&#039;&#039;&#039;] for pre-made boards)&lt;br /&gt;
*2/4 --	2mm x 10-pin XBee female headers 	(H1-H4)	Mouser# M22-7131042 or also available from SparkFun Electronics as part# PRT-08272	($1 each)&lt;br /&gt;
*1 -- Ren-C users: Snap Choke Core Balun - Radio Shack part# 273-0069&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;SUBSTITUTE PARTS&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
* 3.3v voltage regulator: Texas Instruments part # UA78M33CKCS&lt;br /&gt;
* RS-232 chip: Mouser part #: 595-MAX232N&lt;br /&gt;
* RS-232 chip: Mouser part #: 595-MAX232EIN&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Rev6 board BOM Differences&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
::The Rev6 board needs only one RJ45 jack and only two XBee female headers. Otherwise, parts are the same.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:* Here&#039;s a direct link to the complete Mouser BOM: [http://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=e1460aa043 Ren-W BOM]&lt;br /&gt;
:* Here&#039;s a direct link to the Express PCB source file for the STANDARD board: [http://dirknerkle.clubdata.com/pcb/ren-w-master.pcb Ren-W STD PCB file]&lt;br /&gt;
:* Here&#039;s a direct link to the Express PCB source file for the SMA board: [http://dirknerkle.clubdata.com/pcb/ren-w-master-SMA.pcb Ren-W SMA PCB file]&lt;br /&gt;
:* Here&#039;s a direct link to the Express PCB source file for the Rev6 board: [http://dirknerkle.clubdata.com/pcb/ren-w-rev6.pcb Ren-W Rev6 PCB file]&lt;br /&gt;
:* Here&#039;s a direct link to the schematic for the Ren-W board: [http://dirknerkle.clubdata.com/pcb/ren-w_schematic.jpg Ren-W_Schematic.JPG file]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:* Go to [http://www.expresspcb.com www.expresspcb.com] to download their free PCB software to open the PCB file.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;PCB Parts Layout&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
: The only important difference between the standard board and the SMA board is the orientation of the XBee modules. The standard board has the modules pointing upward; the SMA version has them pointing downward to allow for the long RPSMA antenna connector. Pay careful attention to the orientation of the XBee when plugging it into the board. If you have the standard board, plugging in an XBee module with an SMA connector upside-down will NOT WORK. Likewise, plugging in an XBee with a 1&amp;quot; whip the wrong way on an SMA board won&#039;t work, either. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
: The latest Rev6 version of the board has space for only one XBee module and uses a jumper to make the board be either a transmitter (TX) or receiver (RX). The Rev6 board cannot function as a repeater board as it has only one RJ45 jack, but it is about 30% smaller in size and has fewer parts so it&#039;s slightly less expensive to build.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_parts_location.JPG |600px]] [[File:Renwrev6.jpg |225px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;Construction Step-by-step - SMA and Rev-6 Boards&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;&#039;OVERALL CONCEPT:&#039;&#039;&#039; It is usually easist to assemble a circuit board using the &amp;quot;height&amp;quot; concept -- start with the parts that lay lowest or on the board itself, then the parts that stand taller and finishing with the tallest parts, installing them last. This usually means that resistors and diodes usually lie flat and are the first to be installed, then perhaps short capacitors, then DIP sockets, etc. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_build-1.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
: The &#039;&#039;&#039;basic&#039;&#039;&#039; construction steps are identical for both the SMA and Rev6 versions of the board; the Rev6 board also uses the same part numbers. Obviously, the Rev6 has fewer parts, and where the parts don&#039;t exist, don&#039;t install them! Caution - the pins on the XBee female headers are quite tiny and require very little solder. Too much solder may flow down and fill the pin hole in the header itself and prevent plugging in the XBee later on.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:1.	Solder 2mm female headers at locations H1, H2, H3, H4 or: &lt;br /&gt;
:::	TX only: only H1, H2 are required&lt;br /&gt;
:::	RX only: only H3, H4 are required&lt;br /&gt;
:::	E-mode repeater: only H1, H2 are required.&lt;br /&gt;
:::	Normal repeater mode: all four headers required&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_build2.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:2.	Solder the 16-pin DIP socket into the MAX232 location. Note the position of pin 1; the notch faces to the right. If no socket is to be used, solder the MAX232 directly to the Ren-W board; verify the pin orientation before soldering.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_build3.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:3.	Solder capacitors C1 and C2. You may wish to straighten the leads to fit the holes better such as the example at the bottom of the picture. There are no polarity concerns for non-polarized capacitors. (Note: The polarity markings on the board are for the convenience of users who are using electrolytic capacitors instead of the non-polarized type.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_build4.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:4. Solder non-polarized capacitors C4, C5 and C6. Like C1 and C2, if electrolytic capacitors are used, observe the + polarity markings on the board. (Note: C4, C5 and C6 do a lot to clean up the RS-232 signal the Ren-W provides to the Renard controller, and these are essential if connecting the Ren-W to a Ren-C/595 or Ren-C/Grinch. Early models of the Ren-W did not utilize C4, C5 and C6 but they are highly suggested to make the MAX232 chip run nice and stable.)&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_build5.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:5.	Solder electrolytic capacitor C3. Note the polarity: the + side into the square pad (top) closer to jack J2 which means the stripe on the capacitor faces DOWN.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_build6.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
:6.	Solder 2-pin headers JP1, JP2, JP3, JP4, JP5, JP6. (Note: JP1 and JP2 are optional.) The header pins are a tight fit; be careful as you wiggle them into their respective holes.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_build7.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:7.	Solder RJ45 jacks J1, J2&lt;br /&gt;
:::	TX only: only J1 is required&lt;br /&gt;
:::	RX only: only J2 is required&lt;br /&gt;
:::	Normal repeater and E-mode repeater: both J1 and J2 are required&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_build8.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:8.	Solder zener diode D1. Note the polarity – on the SMA board, the band on the diode must be facing up, next to header JP6. On the Rev6 board the band on the diode must be facing DOWN, next to header H2.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_build9.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:9.	Solder resistors R1 (orange-orange-black) and R2 (brown-black-red). R2 is only required if the optional power LED (D2) is used. No polarity concerns.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_build10.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:10.	Solder the optional power LED at position D2. Note the polarity – the flat side/cathode/shorter lead faces to the mounting hole immediately to the right of D2.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_build11.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:11.	Solder the 3.3v voltage regulator U1. On the SMA board the metal heat sink side faces toward JP2 (top); on the Rev6 board the metal heat sink side faces toward C3 (right). The need for an additional heat sink is highly unlikely as the supply voltage is only 5vdc. At this point, applying power to the SMA board should light the LED (if installed) and the voltage test points in the middle of the board should register the proper voltages. The Rev6 board requires that the XBee radio be in the sockets; the LED will then blink showing the XBee radio is operational. Disconnect power before continuing with the next step.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_complete.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:12.	Install the MAX232 and XBee module(s) in their respective sockets: use the XBee RX side for a receive-only board, the XBee TX side for a transmit-only board. Note the position of pin 1.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:13.	Install optional jumper shunt at JP6 if necessary. This bypasses the R1 resistor (33 ohms) and allows a weaker RS-485 signal through to the XBee radio in transmit mode. Normally, this jumper shunt is not necessary.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:14.    Install optional jumper shunt at JP5 if necessary. This makes the Ren-W into an E-Mode repeater where a single XBee module in the TX position serves as both the receiver and transmitter.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:15.  CAUTION: Never place jumper shunts across JP1 or JP2!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:16.  CAUTION: Never place jumper shunts across either pin of JP3 to either pin of JP4!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:17.  REV-6 board only: install 2-pin jumper headers at the TX and RX locations.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;Powering the Ren-W board&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:::::[[File:Ren-w_jumper-connector.JPG |200px]]   &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::* A nifty solution that retains the SS controller’s ability to use the diagnostic LEDs is to solder each end of a single strand of cat5 wire to an open jumper shunt such as the photo above. Alternately, you may wish to make your own power cable using two female SL connectors; use a small piece of shrink tubing around the connector for insulation safety. (Both pins on the Ren-W’s JP3 header are +5vdc; both JP4 pins are ground connections.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:::::[[File:Ren-w_mount3.JPG |500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::* With WayneJ&#039;s SS line of boards, the Ren-W draws its +5vdc power from the left pin of the board’s JP3 header (photo above); the ground power connection is made when the Ren-W is connected to either of the SS controller&#039;s RJ45 jacks. If you used the open jumper shunts to make your cable, simply plug the shunts into the JP3 headers on both the SS controller and the Ren-W.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:::::[[File:Ren24LV_5vdc.JPG |250px]] &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::* With Frank Kostyun&#039;s Ren24 ver 3.3, +5vdc can be taken at TP2 (test point 2). You may drill a small hole in the pad if you wish to solder-in a single pin header. With the Ren24LV (photo above) the red circles show places where 5vdc can be found: TP2 and the &amp;quot;Power Tie&amp;quot; (both circled in red in the above photo). The power tie includes six places for jumper header pins, the TOP LEFT of which carries +5vdc (red arrow) Remember, ground is made automatically when the cat5 cable is plugged in.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:::::[[File:Ren64_5vdc.JPG |450px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::* With Wjohn&#039;s Ren64 (version XC5) there is a small, unmarked +5vdc test point immediately below pin 8 of U5 (the rightmost ST485BN chip) and just left of R14. Solder-in a single header pin if you like such as the example above (red circle).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:::::[[File:Ren_c.JPG |450px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::* With Wjohn&#039;s Ren-C, +5vdc can be taken from the header pin immediately to the left of the Q1 transistor. The pin is marked VCC. Another +5vd VCC location is the 2nd from the top pin of the 6-pin JP6 programming header. Either location is fine. Both are marked with red arrows in the photo above.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::* With Budude&#039;s Ren48LSD, if you power the LSD board with 12vdc or less you can solder a single header pin into the test point that&#039;s next to the .1uf capacitor that resides between the voltage regulator and the 2200uf capacitor. The Ren-W&#039;s voltage regulator may get a bit warm but the MAX232 chip can handle 12vdc power and you should be okay. However, if you power the LSD board with more than 12vdc, you must tap power from the +5v side of one of the .1uf capacitors connected to pin 1 of any of the PIC16F688 chips. While not as handy as using the test point, it&#039;s a safer and more accurate way to power the Ren-W from the Ren48LSD.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;Connecting the Ren-W to a Renard SS Controller&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
	&lt;br /&gt;
:* Connect JP3 to JP3 on the SS to power the Ren-W (5vdc).&lt;br /&gt;
:* Ren-W as a transmit only node: connect only J1 to J1 on the SS. Leave J2 on the Ren-W unconnected.&lt;br /&gt;
:* Ren-W as a receive only node: connect only J2 to J2 on the SS. Leave J1 on the Ren-W unconnected.&lt;br /&gt;
:* Ren-W as a standard repeater: connect J1 to J1 and J2 to J2 on the SS. (A standard repeater has TWO XBee modules.)&lt;br /&gt;
:* Ren-W as an E-mode repeater: connect J1 to J1 and J2 to J2 on the SS, add a jumper on the Ren-W’s JP5 and make sure the Ren-W has only a single XBee module plugged into the TX (left) position. (An E-Mode repeater has only ONE XBee module.)&lt;br /&gt;
:* On the SS controller, you may find that the board functions better with JP1 not jumpered (RS-485 mode)but JP2 is jumpered. You can always try JP1 jumpered, but it may not be as effective.&lt;br /&gt;
:* If connecting to the RS-IN of a Ren-C, be sure to affix a snap choke core balun on the cat5 cable (Radio Shack part# 273-0069).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:* Rev6 board only: since this board has only one RJ45 jack (J2), it can be plugged into either the J1 or J2 jack on the Renard controller. If using the Rev6 as a receiver, place a jumper shunt on the RX header and connect J2 to the RS INPUT jack of the controller. If using the Rev6 as a transmitter, place a jumper shunt on the TX header and connect the Rev6&#039;s J2 to the RS OUTPUT jack of the controller. Note that the Rev6 board cannot be used as a &amp;quot;repeater&amp;quot; board which both receives and retransmits out. However, it can be used to transmit from a wired Renard controller to another Ren-W. Of course, a Rev6 can also be a main transmitter board at the PC as well. IMPORTANT: Rev-6 works best when JP2 (the termination resistor) on the SS board is open and not shunted.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;What are JP1, JP2 and JP6 used for?&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::JP1 is an optional RS-485 input connection. Because an XBee module can be programmed via serial communications using a simple AT commands from within a terminal program such as Windows Hyperterminal, these headers provide external access to the R1IN (pin 13, JP1) and T1OUT (pin 14, JP2) serial connections of the MAX232 chip, which in turn, communicates with the XBee module. Both data and ground are provided; ground is the right pin and is marked with G. Using the XCTU software and an XBee programmer board is vastly more convenient that manually configuring a module using AT commands but Digi provides ample documentation for AT command line programming. You can also measure the input voltage of the RS-485 signal at JP1; an acceptable range is +3.3 to +4.8 vdc. It is not expected that this voltage will exceed 5vdc. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::JP2 is an optional RS-232 output connection and can also be used to connect Ren-W to other serial devices. The output voltage is inverted and should be -5.0 to -5.5vdc, depending on the original input voltage.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:::::&#039;&#039;&#039;Caution: never place a shunt jumper across JP1 or JP2, or across either pin of JP3 to either pin of JP4.&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::JP6 is used to bypass the 33ohm resistor R1 which helps moderate the RS-485 serial signal’s current. The combination of R1 and zener diode D1 form a voltage/current protection circuit that limits the serial voltage to a maximum of 3.3 volts before it enters the XBee module’s DIN port. However, not all RS-485 serial signals are of the same voltage and if your serial signal is less than +3.3 volts, you may find that the integrity of transmitted data may increase by placing a shunt jumper on JP6 to bypass resistor R1. If the serial signal is +3.8 vdc or greater, you should leave JP6 open. The XBee module includes a modicum of internal protection and in testing, we found that an XBee can accommodate +5vdc at the input DIN for a short period of time (a few seconds), after which the XBee may stop responding and appear to “lock up.” Temporarily removing power to the board usually resets the XBee so that it will function again.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;Other Voltage Test Points&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::Almost in the exact center of the Ren-W board are three test points marked 5vdc, GND and 3vdc (actually 3.3v). While the actual voltages may vary slightly, the tested values should be very close to those figures. Our prototype measured 4.96v and 3.29v.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;Economy Ren-W Construction&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::If you know exactly how many receive-only and/or transmit-only boards you need and want to save some cash, you can economize by not populating the board with parts that will not be used. For example, below are pictures of stripped-down yet fully functional transmit-only (left) and receive-only (right) boards. Note the parts that are missing on each board. These examples also show the standard XBee radio, not the Pro version, which cuts cost even more, although the standard XBee is quite limited in transmission range. (Price comparison: the Standard Xbee is $19, XBee Pro is $32, XBee Pro with SMA connector is $34.):&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:::[[File:Ren-w_tx_only.JPG |350px]]  [[File:Ren-w_rx_only.JPG |350px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::&#039;&#039;&#039;Bottom line:&#039;&#039;&#039; a fully-populated Ren-W board totals about $43.38 for parts with the XBee Pro radio. If you don&#039;t need the extra power of the Pro version and opt for the standard XBee, you could build a transmit-only or receive-only board for about $26. Home-etch the boards yourself and you could have a fully-functional two-station system for about $50, and using the XBee Pro version would cost only $26 more for the pair. So if you&#039;re on the fence about wireless, you can see that it doesn&#039;t have to cost an arm-and-a-leg.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;Mounting a Ren-W and SS24 Controller in a CG2000 Enclosure&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:(click photos to enlarge)&lt;br /&gt;
:[[File:Ren-w_mount1.JPG |250px]] [[File:Ren-w_mount2.JPG |250px]]  [[File:Ren-w_mount4.JPG |250px]]  &lt;br /&gt;
Using side-entry RJ45s on the Ren-W and looping a cat5 cable from the Ren-W to the SS24, stress is minimized on all RJ45 connectors and the case can easily be fully opened. The Ren-W is mounted at the top of the case, to minimize magnetic interference from the SS24&#039;s transformer, and the SS24 is mounted diagonally in the CG2000 case to allow room for the antenna as well as a little additional distance from the triacs, another potential source of interference. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Additional Ren-W Links&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Renard Wireless Converter]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W BOM and Construction]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Configuration Concepts]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W XBee Radio Configuration]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Questions/Answers]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Troubleshooting]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Antenna Info]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Controller Heater]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8102 Ren-W Topic on the DIYC Forums]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Ren-W]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:DIYC Index]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Dirknerkle</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=Ren-W_Troubleshooting&amp;diff=6929</id>
		<title>Ren-W Troubleshooting</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=Ren-W_Troubleshooting&amp;diff=6929"/>
		<updated>2012-04-24T00:30:13Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Dirknerkle: /* RS-485 Patch for Ren-W as a Transmitter at the PC */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;The Ren-W circuit board is a very simple design but good soldering technique is still extremely important.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Voltage Measurements: three test points are just below pin 16 of the MAX232 chip/socket (circled in red):&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::::[[File:Ren-w-closeup.JPG |500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Construction Mistakes ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
: The Ren-W board was designed for home-etching and thus has very generous traces and solder pads. Be certain that the following components are mounted on the board properly:&lt;br /&gt;
::* The notch on the MAX232 chip faces to the right, toward the U1 voltage regulator.&lt;br /&gt;
::* The zener diode (D1) has the black stripe on the TOP, next to the JP6 header pins. On the Rev-6 board the diode stripe is on the BOTTOM.&lt;br /&gt;
::* The 3.3 voltage regulator (U1) has the metal tab facing up, toward the JP2 header pins. On the Rev-6 board, the metal tab faces to the right, toward the C3 capacitor.&lt;br /&gt;
::* The electrolytic capacitor (C3) has the - stripe facing DOWN toward the LED, which means the + side is up toward the J2 jack.&lt;br /&gt;
::* Capacitors C1, C2 and C3 are needed at the very least and if you find that your Ren-W doesn&#039;t work without optional capacitors C4, C5 and C6, install them and you&#039;ll probably solve your problem. These three additional capacitors do a lot to clean up the RS-232 serial signal output and adding C4, C5 and C6 are highly recommended if you encounter inconsistent communication from the Ren-W to your Renard controller.&lt;br /&gt;
::* If using an electrolytic capacitor for C1, C2, C4, C5 or C6, be sure its polarity is correct. The + sides are marked on the board; the opposite side it obviously the - side, which is marked on the capacitor itself.&lt;br /&gt;
::* The LED (D2) while not very clear in this photo, has the kathode (flat side) facing the mounting hole to its right. On the Rev-6 board, the flat side faces to the right, toward the U1 voltage regulator.&lt;br /&gt;
::* Resistor R1 (33 ohms) is immediately below the MAX232 chip. The resistor has no polarity concerns.&lt;br /&gt;
::* Resistor R2 (1k ohms) is immediately below the U1 voltage regulator. The resistor has no polarity concerns.&lt;br /&gt;
::* Be sure to observe the XBee module&#039;s orientation as printed on the board; remember that the standard board has the XBee pointing upward while the SMA board has the module pointing downward. If you have the standard board, DO NOT simply turn the module around to point downward for an XBee module with an SMA connector -- it will not work and you may damage the radio when power is applied!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:::::[[File:Ren-w_parts_location.JPG |500px]]   [[File:Renwrev6.jpg |200px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Soldering Mistakes ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::::[[File:Ren-w-copperB.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
:When you study the underside (copper) side of the circuit board, a few things become readily apparent:&lt;br /&gt;
::* Very few pins of the XBee radio modules are actually used; most are unused and serve only to hold the header sockets securely.&lt;br /&gt;
::* The solder pads for the XBee headers are very small; accurate and careful soldering is a must to prevent solder bridges. A solder bridge could easily prevent the XBee radio from functioning properly and could damage it. Note the elongated pads for the XBee headers, too. These provide home etch boards will a larger soldering surface.&lt;br /&gt;
::* Note that the cat5 jacks J1 and J2 include additional solder pads for pins that don&#039;t connect to anything. These are provided for home etch boards by providing additional soldering area and strength in holding the jacks to the board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Cabling Mistakes ==&lt;br /&gt;
::* The Ren-W does not need a special cable when connecting J1 or J2 to the Renard controller. A standard cat5 cable with standard pinouts should work fine. It&#039;s a good idea to keep this relatively short inside a controller box so that you don&#039;t end up with a coil of wire, which could affect transmission. Otherwise, the length of the cat5 cables connecting the Ren-W to the controller should be limited to 50 feet or less, the recommended maximum for RS-232 communications.&lt;br /&gt;
::* When connecting a Ren-W directly to a computer&#039;s -485 output to be a &amp;quot;transmit only&amp;quot; unit, remember that the Ren-W takes input only on pin 4 of J1 connector and ground is made on pins 1-2. You may need to make a special cable by connecting -485 to pin 4 before plugging it into J1 of the Ren-W. Ren-W does not use pin 5.&lt;br /&gt;
::* If the Ren-W locks up unexpectedly when connected to a PC in transmit only mode and only unplugging power temporarily restores operations, check the input voltage of the RS-485 line connecting into J1 of the Ren-W; it should be the -485 line.&lt;br /&gt;
::* The Rev-6 version of the Ren-W board requires that JP2 on an SS8, SS16 or SS24 sontroller be open and not shunted. This is because Rev-6 has only one RJ45 jack, and it uses a different physical connection point to the SS board. (JP2 is the termination resistor on an SS controller)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Interaction With other Wi-Fi Devices ==&lt;br /&gt;
::Xbee radios operate in the 2.4ghz frequency spectrum, the same spectrum as your wi-fi router or wireless access point. It is possible that you may encounter interaction between the two if the wi-fi device is in close proximity to a receiving XBee radio. The symptom is misfires or it may even appear to be randomly responsive. For example, a wireless laptop with a live, wireless connection could negatively influence the reception of a nearby controller with a Ren-W, or a wireless webcam placed near a remote controller with a Ren-W could easily influence that Ren-W&#039;s ability to discriminate the Xbee control signal if the webcam&#039;s transmission is too strong.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::Possible solution: Wireless routers, webcams, access points (etc.) usually have the option to use a &amp;quot;channel&amp;quot; as the primary communicating link. XBee radios also have a channel setting and depending on whether it&#039;s a regular Xbee or an XBPro, the channel options may differ. The default XBee channel is channel &amp;quot;C.&amp;quot; Try changing the XBee radios to a different channel and see if the conflicts go away. Note that the channel setting must be made on ALL XBees that are to communicate with one another.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Interaction with FM Radio Transmitter Antenna ==&lt;br /&gt;
::Even though normal broadcast FM is in the megahertz frequency range while XBee radios communicate in the gigahertz range, it&#039;s possible that when the XBee transmitting radio is very close to the FM transmitter&#039;s antenna, some interaction may occur causing either distortion in the FM radio signal or possibly some interference with the XBee if the FM transmitter is very powerful. It&#039;s probably best to keep them separated by a few feet if possible.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Using Common Sense ==&lt;br /&gt;
::* Ren-W&#039;s will communicate best when there is a direct line-of-sight between the transmitter and the receiver. It&#039;s just obvious common sense to place the transmitting antenna in such a place where it will have the fewest things between it and the receiving units. If your receiving Ren-Ws are in the front yard, then putting the transmitter in the back yard doesn&#039;t make a lot of sense and you&#039;ll likely encounter misfires because of it.&lt;br /&gt;
::* When you place your receiving unit/controller on the ground, or near your display, place it so that the antenna is closer to the transmitting antenna. If the antenna is inside the controller&#039;s case and in a corner, place the controller so that corner is the closest corner to the transmitting antenna. Just good common sense.&lt;br /&gt;
::* If your transmitting antenna is vertical, then when you position your controllers/receiving Ren-Ws, place them so that their antennae are parallel to the transmitter so as to maximize the reception of the radio waves. In some cases, the units may be so close to the transmitting antenna that it doesn&#039;t matter, and that&#039;s fine, but the further away you get, the more important it will be to minimize misfires.&lt;br /&gt;
::* If a receiving unit is quite distant or has many trees, bushes, swingsets or other things in the way, consider using putting an external antenna on the receiving unit. It will be vastly superior to using any of the XBee&#039;s built-in antennas and can greatly help reduce misfires. Again, it&#039;s common sense -- try to get the antennae so there are few impediments between them.&lt;br /&gt;
::* Understand that there will be misfires with Ren-W, but there will be fewer of them if you follow these common sense guidelines. Remember, the Renard protocol is asynchronous -- it sends out only and it doesn&#039;t look for any return confirmation that a packet that was sent was actually delivered. This is by design because if communication was poor, there would be a lot slower transfer of data to your controllers because of all the retries going on and your lights would always lag behind your music. Hence, Renard is asynchronous. So is Ren-W for the very same reason. Therefore, to minimize misfires, you need to do everything in your power to allow the best communication between the transmitter and the receivers as you possibly can.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Other Easy Mistakes ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::* Plugging the XBee module into the wrong side of the board for the kind of function the board is to do. Remember:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::::* A receive-ONLY Ren-W has the XBee mounted in the RX (right) side and no jumper is on JP5. The cat5 cable is plugged into J2 and into the J2 socket of the Renard SS controller (the controller&#039;s RS-232 IN port)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::::* A transmit-ONLY Ren-W has the XBee mounted in the TX (left) side and no jumper is on JP5. The cat5 cable is plugged into J1 and into the J1 socket of the Renard SS controller (the controller&#039;s RS-485 OUT port).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::::* An E-Mode Repeater has is exactly the same as a transmit-only board but JP5 is jumpered instead. Cat5 cables connect both jacks J1 and J2 to the Renard controller&#039;s RS-485 OUT and RS-232 IN ports respectively.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::* Connecting J1 to the Renard controller for a receive-only Ren-W won&#039;t work because a receive-only Ren-W uses J2 for the cat5.&lt;br /&gt;
::* Connecting J2 to the Renard controller for a transmit-only Ren-W won&#039;t work because a transmit-only Ren-W uses J1 for the cat5.&lt;br /&gt;
::* Misconfiguring the 16-bit address of an XBee module.&lt;br /&gt;
::* Misconfiguring the LOW address of an XBee module.&lt;br /&gt;
::* Setting the destination address of an XBee module to the wrong address. (This is a hard one to find!)&lt;br /&gt;
::* Setting one radio to transmit to a specific destination XBee but not having the destination XBee in the test.&lt;br /&gt;
::* Changing the PANID to the wrong value; remember, only radios with the same PANID can communcate with one another.&lt;br /&gt;
::* Forgetting to set the Renard controller to accept RS-232 data.&lt;br /&gt;
::* Mounting the Ren-W so the antenna is too close to a transformer or even a triac on the Renard controller can cause erratic transmission and/or reception behavior.&lt;br /&gt;
::* If using the Ren-W to transmit control commands to a Ren-C/595 or Ren-C/Grinch controller, be sure that the cat5 cable that goes from J2 of the Ren-W to the Rs-IN jack of the Ren-C has a choke core balun affixed to it (Radio Shack part# 273-0069). You might also coil the cat5 cable into 4 or 5 loops approx 5&amp;quot; across if the balun alone doesn&#039;t solve the problem. This will reduce the amount of EMI/RFI that the XBee radio produces, which the ren-C may mistakenly see as serial input and cause framing errors. It&#039;s also possible that the framing error LED on a Ren-C may light even though everything is functioning properly. This is likely due to some of the XBee&#039;s EMI getting through anyway and is probably not a critical issue.&lt;br /&gt;
::* Unplugging or plugging-in an XBee module while the Ren-W board is powered up. This can adversely affect and XBee module, and it&#039;s just good practice to remove power from it before unplugging anything.&lt;br /&gt;
::* Resetting an XBee module back to its default specs (an option in the XCTU software) but forgetting to reset the baud rate back to 57600 before putting it back in a Ren-W socket.&lt;br /&gt;
::* Using 57600, 8 bits, Mark parity and 2 stop bits for daisy-chained Ren-W/controllers. Use 57,600, 8, N, 1 instead.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== RS-485 Patch for Ren-W as a Transmitter at the PC - Pre-version 20100622 only ==&lt;br /&gt;
::NOTE: This patch applies ONLY to Ren-W boards prior to version 20100622, and it does not apply at all to the Rev-6 board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:A better and more secure transmitter can be made by using only the -485 signal and allowing the Max232 chip to invert it before sending it to the XBee. The patch has been well-tested and is very easy to make. You probably will need to make the change only to one Ren-W board if you plan to use it as a transmitter direct from your PC instead of using the XBee Explorer board. Here&#039;s how:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:::[[File:Ren-w-485patch.JPG | 400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:* Cut the bottom copper tracing in two places, shown as RED LINES in the picture.&lt;br /&gt;
:* Solder short jumper wires were indicated in BLUE LINES in the picture.&lt;br /&gt;
:* When done, the -485 line will be sent to the Max232 where it will be inverted and sent to the XBee&#039;s input via the zener diode, which will limit the voltage to 3.3v, the maximum prescribed for the XBee.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Transmission Test ==&lt;br /&gt;
: This procedure gives you a chance to see what the Renard data looks like to a controller and it serves ad a terrific way to test a transmitting Ren-W board as well as a receiving XBee module to make sure they&#039;re using the same communication parameters.&lt;br /&gt;
::* Set up a Ren-W in transmit only mode (XBee in the TX side, standard cat5 cable connecting from the RS-OUT jack of the Renard to the RS-IN jack of the Ren-W, Ren-W powered on.)&lt;br /&gt;
::* Plug your computer&#039;s serial output into the Renard controller&#039;s serial IN. Either RS-232 or RS-485 is fine. Just connect it to your computer&#039;s serial port as you would normally.&lt;br /&gt;
::* Use an USB XBee Explorer programmer board with an XBee radio plugged into it as the &amp;quot;receiver.&amp;quot; &lt;br /&gt;
::::* Plug the Explorer board into the computer&lt;br /&gt;
::::* Start up the XCTU software, connect to the XBee radio.&lt;br /&gt;
::::* Open the TERMINAL window, select the SHOW HEX button.&lt;br /&gt;
::::* Leave the screen open so you can view it.&lt;br /&gt;
::* Start up Vixen&lt;br /&gt;
::::* Define a new profile with twice as many channels as the Renard controller you&#039;re using. If it&#039;s an SS16, then create a 32-channel profile using the Renard Dimmer (modified) plugin. &lt;br /&gt;
::::* Open a new sequence and link it to the new profile you just created.&lt;br /&gt;
::::* Make Vixen&#039;s screen smaller so you can see both Vixen and the XCTU Terminal screen at the same time.&lt;br /&gt;
::::* Open Vixen&#039;s channel test feature. When it appears on the screen, your should see a block of HEX information pop into the XCTU screen&#039;s window. You&#039;ll see a 7E 80 sequence followed by as many pairs of zeros as half of your total channel count. If you have defined a 32 channel profile and are using an SS16, then you&#039;ll see sixteen pairs of zeros.&lt;br /&gt;
::::* On Vixen&#039;s channel test box, click the SELECT ALL button. You&#039;ll see the XCTU screen fill with another 7E 80 followed by pairs of FFs, representing &amp;quot;all on&amp;quot; for all the channels. Click the UNSELECT ALL button and the screen will return to zeros.&lt;br /&gt;
::::* Use the slider bar when the lights are &amp;quot;all on&amp;quot; and watch the XCTU screen fill with data. Each slider bar change sends a whole set of data for all channels. You&#039;ll be amazed how much data is processed, and how quickly, too.&lt;br /&gt;
::* You can play an actual sequence in this way, too, and watch all the data flow through to what the transmitting Ren-W board thinks is another Ren-W, but is actually just an XBee radio. You&#039;ll be able to see patterns emerge after a while.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Renard/XBee Timing Issue and Channels 57-64 ==&lt;br /&gt;
: An issue has been reported and reproduced on the Ren64 whereby at 57600 baud, channels 57-64 act inconsistently. They seem to work okay with the ALL CHANNEL test and appear to work okay with most blinky-type activity, but in slower testing, some channels may not come on at all. It&#039;s important to know that the problem is not with the Renard boards or the Renard firmware: the problem is that the XBee&#039;s communication speed is a bit fast and also that certain versions of the XBee firmware have a bug in the serial settings. Changing the firmware and XBee radio to operate at 38400 baud completely solves the problem. However, this also lowers the total number of channels that can be controlled on a single com port at that speed. Another solution is to use only channels 1-56 on the Ren64 controller and continue to operate at 57600, which effectively provides for up to 254 usable channels out of the suggested maximum 286 when sequencing at 50ms. &#039;&#039;&#039;Two additional solutions are available:&#039;&#039;&#039; one is a combination hardware/firmware modification on the Ren64; the second is a firmware modification on the XBee radio coupled with a changed Vixen settiong. Be sure to read BOTH solutions before you start hacking your board! First, the Hardware/Firmware modification of the Ren64 board:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;SOLUTION #1- Hardware/Firmware modification on the Ren64 board - (thanks to tweist!)&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
: Disconnect pin 5 of the U14 pic, and connect a jumper wire between pin5 and pin 1 of U5 (the rightmost ST485BN chip). Then reflash the firmware on the U14 pic with start address 4.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
: Here&#039;s a slick way to do it that won&#039;t compromise any traces on the Ren64 board:&lt;br /&gt;
::1. Bend pin 5 of a spare 14-pin DIP socket out to the side and piggyback it into the U14 socket. Solder a small wire onto the exposed pin 5.&lt;br /&gt;
::::[[File:Ren64-mod2.JPG | 500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::2. Drill a small hole next to U14 and fish the wire through it. There is ample room for the hole, but use caution nevertheless. A small piece of tape on either side of the piggybacked socket will keep it snug.&lt;br /&gt;
::::[[File:Ren64-mod1.JPG | 500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::3. Solder the wire to pin 1 of U5 on the bottom of the board.&lt;br /&gt;
::::[[File:Ren64-mod3.JPG | 200px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::4. Remember to flash the U14 pic with start address firmware set with start_addr 4.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;SOLUTION #2 - XBee Firmware Upgrade/Vixen 2 stop bits&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
: Unsolvable communication issues have been reported by users who have XBee radios that use XBee firmware version 10CD. It is possible that other versions also have a similar problem, but upgrading the XBee firmware to version 10E6 apparently solves the issue when you set the XBee firmware&#039;s parity setting to 3-MARK PARITY. The other setting change is to set your Renard plugin com settings to 57600, 8 data bits and 2 stop bits. However, one of the other issues is that XBee version 10CD is quite cantankerous and generally doesn&#039;t upgrade itself. Here&#039;s the solution to that:&lt;br /&gt;
:::* Be sure your XCTU software has version 10E6 available in the version box. XCTU has a button option to check for new versions on the Digi web site.&lt;br /&gt;
:::* Restore the XBee radio to the factory default settings by clicking the RESTORE button.&lt;br /&gt;
:::* Change your XTCU settings to the default 9600 baud, 8 data bits, no parity and 1 stop bit and load the XBee configuration. Verify that it has version 10CD. (If you don&#039;t have 10CD, you can use this procedure to update it to 10E6 anyway.)&lt;br /&gt;
:::* Check the box to &amp;quot;Always update firmware&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
:::* Choose version 10A5 in the version window. (Yes, you have to DOWNGRADE it first.)&lt;br /&gt;
:::* Click the WRITE button to write the changes, initialize the radio and reprogram it with 10A5 firmware.&lt;br /&gt;
:::* (Do the next two steps very quickly!) When done, uplug the XBee radio so it has no power.&lt;br /&gt;
:::* Re-plug in the XBee, open it again and read the settings.&lt;br /&gt;
:::* Make sure the &amp;quot;Always update firmware&amp;quot; box is checked.&lt;br /&gt;
:::* Choose version 10E6 in the version window.&lt;br /&gt;
:::* Click the WRITE button again.&lt;br /&gt;
:::* When finished, unplug the radio again to remove power, then plug it back in and read the settings again. You should see version 10E6 in the version box.&lt;br /&gt;
:::* Make the normal changes as already suggested (PanID, No-Acks, 57600 baud, packetization timeout 0).&lt;br /&gt;
:::* Change the PARITY setting to 3-MARK PARITY&lt;br /&gt;
:::* Write the settings to the radio.&lt;br /&gt;
:::* Make sure Vixen&#039;s com settings for the Renard plug-in is set to MARK parity and 2 stop bits also.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Additional Ren-W Links&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Renard Wireless Converter]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W BOM and Construction]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Configuration Concepts]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W XBee Radio Configuration]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Questions/Answers]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Troubleshooting]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Antenna Info]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Controller Heater]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8102 Ren-W Topic on the DIYC Forums]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Ren-W]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:DIYC Index]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Dirknerkle</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=Ren-W_Troubleshooting&amp;diff=6928</id>
		<title>Ren-W Troubleshooting</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=Ren-W_Troubleshooting&amp;diff=6928"/>
		<updated>2012-04-24T00:29:35Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Dirknerkle: /* RS-485 Patch for Ren-W as a Transmitter at the PC */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;The Ren-W circuit board is a very simple design but good soldering technique is still extremely important.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Voltage Measurements: three test points are just below pin 16 of the MAX232 chip/socket (circled in red):&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::::[[File:Ren-w-closeup.JPG |500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Construction Mistakes ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
: The Ren-W board was designed for home-etching and thus has very generous traces and solder pads. Be certain that the following components are mounted on the board properly:&lt;br /&gt;
::* The notch on the MAX232 chip faces to the right, toward the U1 voltage regulator.&lt;br /&gt;
::* The zener diode (D1) has the black stripe on the TOP, next to the JP6 header pins. On the Rev-6 board the diode stripe is on the BOTTOM.&lt;br /&gt;
::* The 3.3 voltage regulator (U1) has the metal tab facing up, toward the JP2 header pins. On the Rev-6 board, the metal tab faces to the right, toward the C3 capacitor.&lt;br /&gt;
::* The electrolytic capacitor (C3) has the - stripe facing DOWN toward the LED, which means the + side is up toward the J2 jack.&lt;br /&gt;
::* Capacitors C1, C2 and C3 are needed at the very least and if you find that your Ren-W doesn&#039;t work without optional capacitors C4, C5 and C6, install them and you&#039;ll probably solve your problem. These three additional capacitors do a lot to clean up the RS-232 serial signal output and adding C4, C5 and C6 are highly recommended if you encounter inconsistent communication from the Ren-W to your Renard controller.&lt;br /&gt;
::* If using an electrolytic capacitor for C1, C2, C4, C5 or C6, be sure its polarity is correct. The + sides are marked on the board; the opposite side it obviously the - side, which is marked on the capacitor itself.&lt;br /&gt;
::* The LED (D2) while not very clear in this photo, has the kathode (flat side) facing the mounting hole to its right. On the Rev-6 board, the flat side faces to the right, toward the U1 voltage regulator.&lt;br /&gt;
::* Resistor R1 (33 ohms) is immediately below the MAX232 chip. The resistor has no polarity concerns.&lt;br /&gt;
::* Resistor R2 (1k ohms) is immediately below the U1 voltage regulator. The resistor has no polarity concerns.&lt;br /&gt;
::* Be sure to observe the XBee module&#039;s orientation as printed on the board; remember that the standard board has the XBee pointing upward while the SMA board has the module pointing downward. If you have the standard board, DO NOT simply turn the module around to point downward for an XBee module with an SMA connector -- it will not work and you may damage the radio when power is applied!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:::::[[File:Ren-w_parts_location.JPG |500px]]   [[File:Renwrev6.jpg |200px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Soldering Mistakes ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::::[[File:Ren-w-copperB.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
:When you study the underside (copper) side of the circuit board, a few things become readily apparent:&lt;br /&gt;
::* Very few pins of the XBee radio modules are actually used; most are unused and serve only to hold the header sockets securely.&lt;br /&gt;
::* The solder pads for the XBee headers are very small; accurate and careful soldering is a must to prevent solder bridges. A solder bridge could easily prevent the XBee radio from functioning properly and could damage it. Note the elongated pads for the XBee headers, too. These provide home etch boards will a larger soldering surface.&lt;br /&gt;
::* Note that the cat5 jacks J1 and J2 include additional solder pads for pins that don&#039;t connect to anything. These are provided for home etch boards by providing additional soldering area and strength in holding the jacks to the board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Cabling Mistakes ==&lt;br /&gt;
::* The Ren-W does not need a special cable when connecting J1 or J2 to the Renard controller. A standard cat5 cable with standard pinouts should work fine. It&#039;s a good idea to keep this relatively short inside a controller box so that you don&#039;t end up with a coil of wire, which could affect transmission. Otherwise, the length of the cat5 cables connecting the Ren-W to the controller should be limited to 50 feet or less, the recommended maximum for RS-232 communications.&lt;br /&gt;
::* When connecting a Ren-W directly to a computer&#039;s -485 output to be a &amp;quot;transmit only&amp;quot; unit, remember that the Ren-W takes input only on pin 4 of J1 connector and ground is made on pins 1-2. You may need to make a special cable by connecting -485 to pin 4 before plugging it into J1 of the Ren-W. Ren-W does not use pin 5.&lt;br /&gt;
::* If the Ren-W locks up unexpectedly when connected to a PC in transmit only mode and only unplugging power temporarily restores operations, check the input voltage of the RS-485 line connecting into J1 of the Ren-W; it should be the -485 line.&lt;br /&gt;
::* The Rev-6 version of the Ren-W board requires that JP2 on an SS8, SS16 or SS24 sontroller be open and not shunted. This is because Rev-6 has only one RJ45 jack, and it uses a different physical connection point to the SS board. (JP2 is the termination resistor on an SS controller)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Interaction With other Wi-Fi Devices ==&lt;br /&gt;
::Xbee radios operate in the 2.4ghz frequency spectrum, the same spectrum as your wi-fi router or wireless access point. It is possible that you may encounter interaction between the two if the wi-fi device is in close proximity to a receiving XBee radio. The symptom is misfires or it may even appear to be randomly responsive. For example, a wireless laptop with a live, wireless connection could negatively influence the reception of a nearby controller with a Ren-W, or a wireless webcam placed near a remote controller with a Ren-W could easily influence that Ren-W&#039;s ability to discriminate the Xbee control signal if the webcam&#039;s transmission is too strong.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::Possible solution: Wireless routers, webcams, access points (etc.) usually have the option to use a &amp;quot;channel&amp;quot; as the primary communicating link. XBee radios also have a channel setting and depending on whether it&#039;s a regular Xbee or an XBPro, the channel options may differ. The default XBee channel is channel &amp;quot;C.&amp;quot; Try changing the XBee radios to a different channel and see if the conflicts go away. Note that the channel setting must be made on ALL XBees that are to communicate with one another.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Interaction with FM Radio Transmitter Antenna ==&lt;br /&gt;
::Even though normal broadcast FM is in the megahertz frequency range while XBee radios communicate in the gigahertz range, it&#039;s possible that when the XBee transmitting radio is very close to the FM transmitter&#039;s antenna, some interaction may occur causing either distortion in the FM radio signal or possibly some interference with the XBee if the FM transmitter is very powerful. It&#039;s probably best to keep them separated by a few feet if possible.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Using Common Sense ==&lt;br /&gt;
::* Ren-W&#039;s will communicate best when there is a direct line-of-sight between the transmitter and the receiver. It&#039;s just obvious common sense to place the transmitting antenna in such a place where it will have the fewest things between it and the receiving units. If your receiving Ren-Ws are in the front yard, then putting the transmitter in the back yard doesn&#039;t make a lot of sense and you&#039;ll likely encounter misfires because of it.&lt;br /&gt;
::* When you place your receiving unit/controller on the ground, or near your display, place it so that the antenna is closer to the transmitting antenna. If the antenna is inside the controller&#039;s case and in a corner, place the controller so that corner is the closest corner to the transmitting antenna. Just good common sense.&lt;br /&gt;
::* If your transmitting antenna is vertical, then when you position your controllers/receiving Ren-Ws, place them so that their antennae are parallel to the transmitter so as to maximize the reception of the radio waves. In some cases, the units may be so close to the transmitting antenna that it doesn&#039;t matter, and that&#039;s fine, but the further away you get, the more important it will be to minimize misfires.&lt;br /&gt;
::* If a receiving unit is quite distant or has many trees, bushes, swingsets or other things in the way, consider using putting an external antenna on the receiving unit. It will be vastly superior to using any of the XBee&#039;s built-in antennas and can greatly help reduce misfires. Again, it&#039;s common sense -- try to get the antennae so there are few impediments between them.&lt;br /&gt;
::* Understand that there will be misfires with Ren-W, but there will be fewer of them if you follow these common sense guidelines. Remember, the Renard protocol is asynchronous -- it sends out only and it doesn&#039;t look for any return confirmation that a packet that was sent was actually delivered. This is by design because if communication was poor, there would be a lot slower transfer of data to your controllers because of all the retries going on and your lights would always lag behind your music. Hence, Renard is asynchronous. So is Ren-W for the very same reason. Therefore, to minimize misfires, you need to do everything in your power to allow the best communication between the transmitter and the receivers as you possibly can.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Other Easy Mistakes ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::* Plugging the XBee module into the wrong side of the board for the kind of function the board is to do. Remember:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::::* A receive-ONLY Ren-W has the XBee mounted in the RX (right) side and no jumper is on JP5. The cat5 cable is plugged into J2 and into the J2 socket of the Renard SS controller (the controller&#039;s RS-232 IN port)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::::* A transmit-ONLY Ren-W has the XBee mounted in the TX (left) side and no jumper is on JP5. The cat5 cable is plugged into J1 and into the J1 socket of the Renard SS controller (the controller&#039;s RS-485 OUT port).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::::* An E-Mode Repeater has is exactly the same as a transmit-only board but JP5 is jumpered instead. Cat5 cables connect both jacks J1 and J2 to the Renard controller&#039;s RS-485 OUT and RS-232 IN ports respectively.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::* Connecting J1 to the Renard controller for a receive-only Ren-W won&#039;t work because a receive-only Ren-W uses J2 for the cat5.&lt;br /&gt;
::* Connecting J2 to the Renard controller for a transmit-only Ren-W won&#039;t work because a transmit-only Ren-W uses J1 for the cat5.&lt;br /&gt;
::* Misconfiguring the 16-bit address of an XBee module.&lt;br /&gt;
::* Misconfiguring the LOW address of an XBee module.&lt;br /&gt;
::* Setting the destination address of an XBee module to the wrong address. (This is a hard one to find!)&lt;br /&gt;
::* Setting one radio to transmit to a specific destination XBee but not having the destination XBee in the test.&lt;br /&gt;
::* Changing the PANID to the wrong value; remember, only radios with the same PANID can communcate with one another.&lt;br /&gt;
::* Forgetting to set the Renard controller to accept RS-232 data.&lt;br /&gt;
::* Mounting the Ren-W so the antenna is too close to a transformer or even a triac on the Renard controller can cause erratic transmission and/or reception behavior.&lt;br /&gt;
::* If using the Ren-W to transmit control commands to a Ren-C/595 or Ren-C/Grinch controller, be sure that the cat5 cable that goes from J2 of the Ren-W to the Rs-IN jack of the Ren-C has a choke core balun affixed to it (Radio Shack part# 273-0069). You might also coil the cat5 cable into 4 or 5 loops approx 5&amp;quot; across if the balun alone doesn&#039;t solve the problem. This will reduce the amount of EMI/RFI that the XBee radio produces, which the ren-C may mistakenly see as serial input and cause framing errors. It&#039;s also possible that the framing error LED on a Ren-C may light even though everything is functioning properly. This is likely due to some of the XBee&#039;s EMI getting through anyway and is probably not a critical issue.&lt;br /&gt;
::* Unplugging or plugging-in an XBee module while the Ren-W board is powered up. This can adversely affect and XBee module, and it&#039;s just good practice to remove power from it before unplugging anything.&lt;br /&gt;
::* Resetting an XBee module back to its default specs (an option in the XCTU software) but forgetting to reset the baud rate back to 57600 before putting it back in a Ren-W socket.&lt;br /&gt;
::* Using 57600, 8 bits, Mark parity and 2 stop bits for daisy-chained Ren-W/controllers. Use 57,600, 8, N, 1 instead.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== RS-485 Patch for Ren-W as a Transmitter at the PC ==&lt;br /&gt;
::NOTE: This patch applies ONLY to Ren-W boards prior to version 20100622, and it does not apply at all to the Rev-6 board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:A better and more secure transmitter can be made by using only the -485 signal and allowing the Max232 chip to invert it before sending it to the XBee. The patch has been well-tested and is very easy to make. You probably will need to make the change only to one Ren-W board if you plan to use it as a transmitter direct from your PC instead of using the XBee Explorer board. Here&#039;s how:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:::[[File:Ren-w-485patch.JPG | 400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:* Cut the bottom copper tracing in two places, shown as RED LINES in the picture.&lt;br /&gt;
:* Solder short jumper wires were indicated in BLUE LINES in the picture.&lt;br /&gt;
:* When done, the -485 line will be sent to the Max232 where it will be inverted and sent to the XBee&#039;s input via the zener diode, which will limit the voltage to 3.3v, the maximum prescribed for the XBee.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Transmission Test ==&lt;br /&gt;
: This procedure gives you a chance to see what the Renard data looks like to a controller and it serves ad a terrific way to test a transmitting Ren-W board as well as a receiving XBee module to make sure they&#039;re using the same communication parameters.&lt;br /&gt;
::* Set up a Ren-W in transmit only mode (XBee in the TX side, standard cat5 cable connecting from the RS-OUT jack of the Renard to the RS-IN jack of the Ren-W, Ren-W powered on.)&lt;br /&gt;
::* Plug your computer&#039;s serial output into the Renard controller&#039;s serial IN. Either RS-232 or RS-485 is fine. Just connect it to your computer&#039;s serial port as you would normally.&lt;br /&gt;
::* Use an USB XBee Explorer programmer board with an XBee radio plugged into it as the &amp;quot;receiver.&amp;quot; &lt;br /&gt;
::::* Plug the Explorer board into the computer&lt;br /&gt;
::::* Start up the XCTU software, connect to the XBee radio.&lt;br /&gt;
::::* Open the TERMINAL window, select the SHOW HEX button.&lt;br /&gt;
::::* Leave the screen open so you can view it.&lt;br /&gt;
::* Start up Vixen&lt;br /&gt;
::::* Define a new profile with twice as many channels as the Renard controller you&#039;re using. If it&#039;s an SS16, then create a 32-channel profile using the Renard Dimmer (modified) plugin. &lt;br /&gt;
::::* Open a new sequence and link it to the new profile you just created.&lt;br /&gt;
::::* Make Vixen&#039;s screen smaller so you can see both Vixen and the XCTU Terminal screen at the same time.&lt;br /&gt;
::::* Open Vixen&#039;s channel test feature. When it appears on the screen, your should see a block of HEX information pop into the XCTU screen&#039;s window. You&#039;ll see a 7E 80 sequence followed by as many pairs of zeros as half of your total channel count. If you have defined a 32 channel profile and are using an SS16, then you&#039;ll see sixteen pairs of zeros.&lt;br /&gt;
::::* On Vixen&#039;s channel test box, click the SELECT ALL button. You&#039;ll see the XCTU screen fill with another 7E 80 followed by pairs of FFs, representing &amp;quot;all on&amp;quot; for all the channels. Click the UNSELECT ALL button and the screen will return to zeros.&lt;br /&gt;
::::* Use the slider bar when the lights are &amp;quot;all on&amp;quot; and watch the XCTU screen fill with data. Each slider bar change sends a whole set of data for all channels. You&#039;ll be amazed how much data is processed, and how quickly, too.&lt;br /&gt;
::* You can play an actual sequence in this way, too, and watch all the data flow through to what the transmitting Ren-W board thinks is another Ren-W, but is actually just an XBee radio. You&#039;ll be able to see patterns emerge after a while.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Renard/XBee Timing Issue and Channels 57-64 ==&lt;br /&gt;
: An issue has been reported and reproduced on the Ren64 whereby at 57600 baud, channels 57-64 act inconsistently. They seem to work okay with the ALL CHANNEL test and appear to work okay with most blinky-type activity, but in slower testing, some channels may not come on at all. It&#039;s important to know that the problem is not with the Renard boards or the Renard firmware: the problem is that the XBee&#039;s communication speed is a bit fast and also that certain versions of the XBee firmware have a bug in the serial settings. Changing the firmware and XBee radio to operate at 38400 baud completely solves the problem. However, this also lowers the total number of channels that can be controlled on a single com port at that speed. Another solution is to use only channels 1-56 on the Ren64 controller and continue to operate at 57600, which effectively provides for up to 254 usable channels out of the suggested maximum 286 when sequencing at 50ms. &#039;&#039;&#039;Two additional solutions are available:&#039;&#039;&#039; one is a combination hardware/firmware modification on the Ren64; the second is a firmware modification on the XBee radio coupled with a changed Vixen settiong. Be sure to read BOTH solutions before you start hacking your board! First, the Hardware/Firmware modification of the Ren64 board:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;SOLUTION #1- Hardware/Firmware modification on the Ren64 board - (thanks to tweist!)&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
: Disconnect pin 5 of the U14 pic, and connect a jumper wire between pin5 and pin 1 of U5 (the rightmost ST485BN chip). Then reflash the firmware on the U14 pic with start address 4.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
: Here&#039;s a slick way to do it that won&#039;t compromise any traces on the Ren64 board:&lt;br /&gt;
::1. Bend pin 5 of a spare 14-pin DIP socket out to the side and piggyback it into the U14 socket. Solder a small wire onto the exposed pin 5.&lt;br /&gt;
::::[[File:Ren64-mod2.JPG | 500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::2. Drill a small hole next to U14 and fish the wire through it. There is ample room for the hole, but use caution nevertheless. A small piece of tape on either side of the piggybacked socket will keep it snug.&lt;br /&gt;
::::[[File:Ren64-mod1.JPG | 500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::3. Solder the wire to pin 1 of U5 on the bottom of the board.&lt;br /&gt;
::::[[File:Ren64-mod3.JPG | 200px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::4. Remember to flash the U14 pic with start address firmware set with start_addr 4.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;SOLUTION #2 - XBee Firmware Upgrade/Vixen 2 stop bits&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
: Unsolvable communication issues have been reported by users who have XBee radios that use XBee firmware version 10CD. It is possible that other versions also have a similar problem, but upgrading the XBee firmware to version 10E6 apparently solves the issue when you set the XBee firmware&#039;s parity setting to 3-MARK PARITY. The other setting change is to set your Renard plugin com settings to 57600, 8 data bits and 2 stop bits. However, one of the other issues is that XBee version 10CD is quite cantankerous and generally doesn&#039;t upgrade itself. Here&#039;s the solution to that:&lt;br /&gt;
:::* Be sure your XCTU software has version 10E6 available in the version box. XCTU has a button option to check for new versions on the Digi web site.&lt;br /&gt;
:::* Restore the XBee radio to the factory default settings by clicking the RESTORE button.&lt;br /&gt;
:::* Change your XTCU settings to the default 9600 baud, 8 data bits, no parity and 1 stop bit and load the XBee configuration. Verify that it has version 10CD. (If you don&#039;t have 10CD, you can use this procedure to update it to 10E6 anyway.)&lt;br /&gt;
:::* Check the box to &amp;quot;Always update firmware&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
:::* Choose version 10A5 in the version window. (Yes, you have to DOWNGRADE it first.)&lt;br /&gt;
:::* Click the WRITE button to write the changes, initialize the radio and reprogram it with 10A5 firmware.&lt;br /&gt;
:::* (Do the next two steps very quickly!) When done, uplug the XBee radio so it has no power.&lt;br /&gt;
:::* Re-plug in the XBee, open it again and read the settings.&lt;br /&gt;
:::* Make sure the &amp;quot;Always update firmware&amp;quot; box is checked.&lt;br /&gt;
:::* Choose version 10E6 in the version window.&lt;br /&gt;
:::* Click the WRITE button again.&lt;br /&gt;
:::* When finished, unplug the radio again to remove power, then plug it back in and read the settings again. You should see version 10E6 in the version box.&lt;br /&gt;
:::* Make the normal changes as already suggested (PanID, No-Acks, 57600 baud, packetization timeout 0).&lt;br /&gt;
:::* Change the PARITY setting to 3-MARK PARITY&lt;br /&gt;
:::* Write the settings to the radio.&lt;br /&gt;
:::* Make sure Vixen&#039;s com settings for the Renard plug-in is set to MARK parity and 2 stop bits also.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Additional Ren-W Links&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Renard Wireless Converter]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W BOM and Construction]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Configuration Concepts]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W XBee Radio Configuration]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Questions/Answers]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Troubleshooting]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Antenna Info]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Controller Heater]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8102 Ren-W Topic on the DIYC Forums]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Ren-W]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:DIYC Index]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Dirknerkle</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=Ren-W_Troubleshooting&amp;diff=6927</id>
		<title>Ren-W Troubleshooting</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=Ren-W_Troubleshooting&amp;diff=6927"/>
		<updated>2012-04-24T00:27:26Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Dirknerkle: /* Construction Mistakes */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;The Ren-W circuit board is a very simple design but good soldering technique is still extremely important.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Voltage Measurements: three test points are just below pin 16 of the MAX232 chip/socket (circled in red):&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::::[[File:Ren-w-closeup.JPG |500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Construction Mistakes ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
: The Ren-W board was designed for home-etching and thus has very generous traces and solder pads. Be certain that the following components are mounted on the board properly:&lt;br /&gt;
::* The notch on the MAX232 chip faces to the right, toward the U1 voltage regulator.&lt;br /&gt;
::* The zener diode (D1) has the black stripe on the TOP, next to the JP6 header pins. On the Rev-6 board the diode stripe is on the BOTTOM.&lt;br /&gt;
::* The 3.3 voltage regulator (U1) has the metal tab facing up, toward the JP2 header pins. On the Rev-6 board, the metal tab faces to the right, toward the C3 capacitor.&lt;br /&gt;
::* The electrolytic capacitor (C3) has the - stripe facing DOWN toward the LED, which means the + side is up toward the J2 jack.&lt;br /&gt;
::* Capacitors C1, C2 and C3 are needed at the very least and if you find that your Ren-W doesn&#039;t work without optional capacitors C4, C5 and C6, install them and you&#039;ll probably solve your problem. These three additional capacitors do a lot to clean up the RS-232 serial signal output and adding C4, C5 and C6 are highly recommended if you encounter inconsistent communication from the Ren-W to your Renard controller.&lt;br /&gt;
::* If using an electrolytic capacitor for C1, C2, C4, C5 or C6, be sure its polarity is correct. The + sides are marked on the board; the opposite side it obviously the - side, which is marked on the capacitor itself.&lt;br /&gt;
::* The LED (D2) while not very clear in this photo, has the kathode (flat side) facing the mounting hole to its right. On the Rev-6 board, the flat side faces to the right, toward the U1 voltage regulator.&lt;br /&gt;
::* Resistor R1 (33 ohms) is immediately below the MAX232 chip. The resistor has no polarity concerns.&lt;br /&gt;
::* Resistor R2 (1k ohms) is immediately below the U1 voltage regulator. The resistor has no polarity concerns.&lt;br /&gt;
::* Be sure to observe the XBee module&#039;s orientation as printed on the board; remember that the standard board has the XBee pointing upward while the SMA board has the module pointing downward. If you have the standard board, DO NOT simply turn the module around to point downward for an XBee module with an SMA connector -- it will not work and you may damage the radio when power is applied!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:::::[[File:Ren-w_parts_location.JPG |500px]]   [[File:Renwrev6.jpg |200px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Soldering Mistakes ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::::[[File:Ren-w-copperB.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
:When you study the underside (copper) side of the circuit board, a few things become readily apparent:&lt;br /&gt;
::* Very few pins of the XBee radio modules are actually used; most are unused and serve only to hold the header sockets securely.&lt;br /&gt;
::* The solder pads for the XBee headers are very small; accurate and careful soldering is a must to prevent solder bridges. A solder bridge could easily prevent the XBee radio from functioning properly and could damage it. Note the elongated pads for the XBee headers, too. These provide home etch boards will a larger soldering surface.&lt;br /&gt;
::* Note that the cat5 jacks J1 and J2 include additional solder pads for pins that don&#039;t connect to anything. These are provided for home etch boards by providing additional soldering area and strength in holding the jacks to the board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Cabling Mistakes ==&lt;br /&gt;
::* The Ren-W does not need a special cable when connecting J1 or J2 to the Renard controller. A standard cat5 cable with standard pinouts should work fine. It&#039;s a good idea to keep this relatively short inside a controller box so that you don&#039;t end up with a coil of wire, which could affect transmission. Otherwise, the length of the cat5 cables connecting the Ren-W to the controller should be limited to 50 feet or less, the recommended maximum for RS-232 communications.&lt;br /&gt;
::* When connecting a Ren-W directly to a computer&#039;s -485 output to be a &amp;quot;transmit only&amp;quot; unit, remember that the Ren-W takes input only on pin 4 of J1 connector and ground is made on pins 1-2. You may need to make a special cable by connecting -485 to pin 4 before plugging it into J1 of the Ren-W. Ren-W does not use pin 5.&lt;br /&gt;
::* If the Ren-W locks up unexpectedly when connected to a PC in transmit only mode and only unplugging power temporarily restores operations, check the input voltage of the RS-485 line connecting into J1 of the Ren-W; it should be the -485 line.&lt;br /&gt;
::* The Rev-6 version of the Ren-W board requires that JP2 on an SS8, SS16 or SS24 sontroller be open and not shunted. This is because Rev-6 has only one RJ45 jack, and it uses a different physical connection point to the SS board. (JP2 is the termination resistor on an SS controller)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Interaction With other Wi-Fi Devices ==&lt;br /&gt;
::Xbee radios operate in the 2.4ghz frequency spectrum, the same spectrum as your wi-fi router or wireless access point. It is possible that you may encounter interaction between the two if the wi-fi device is in close proximity to a receiving XBee radio. The symptom is misfires or it may even appear to be randomly responsive. For example, a wireless laptop with a live, wireless connection could negatively influence the reception of a nearby controller with a Ren-W, or a wireless webcam placed near a remote controller with a Ren-W could easily influence that Ren-W&#039;s ability to discriminate the Xbee control signal if the webcam&#039;s transmission is too strong.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::Possible solution: Wireless routers, webcams, access points (etc.) usually have the option to use a &amp;quot;channel&amp;quot; as the primary communicating link. XBee radios also have a channel setting and depending on whether it&#039;s a regular Xbee or an XBPro, the channel options may differ. The default XBee channel is channel &amp;quot;C.&amp;quot; Try changing the XBee radios to a different channel and see if the conflicts go away. Note that the channel setting must be made on ALL XBees that are to communicate with one another.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Interaction with FM Radio Transmitter Antenna ==&lt;br /&gt;
::Even though normal broadcast FM is in the megahertz frequency range while XBee radios communicate in the gigahertz range, it&#039;s possible that when the XBee transmitting radio is very close to the FM transmitter&#039;s antenna, some interaction may occur causing either distortion in the FM radio signal or possibly some interference with the XBee if the FM transmitter is very powerful. It&#039;s probably best to keep them separated by a few feet if possible.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Using Common Sense ==&lt;br /&gt;
::* Ren-W&#039;s will communicate best when there is a direct line-of-sight between the transmitter and the receiver. It&#039;s just obvious common sense to place the transmitting antenna in such a place where it will have the fewest things between it and the receiving units. If your receiving Ren-Ws are in the front yard, then putting the transmitter in the back yard doesn&#039;t make a lot of sense and you&#039;ll likely encounter misfires because of it.&lt;br /&gt;
::* When you place your receiving unit/controller on the ground, or near your display, place it so that the antenna is closer to the transmitting antenna. If the antenna is inside the controller&#039;s case and in a corner, place the controller so that corner is the closest corner to the transmitting antenna. Just good common sense.&lt;br /&gt;
::* If your transmitting antenna is vertical, then when you position your controllers/receiving Ren-Ws, place them so that their antennae are parallel to the transmitter so as to maximize the reception of the radio waves. In some cases, the units may be so close to the transmitting antenna that it doesn&#039;t matter, and that&#039;s fine, but the further away you get, the more important it will be to minimize misfires.&lt;br /&gt;
::* If a receiving unit is quite distant or has many trees, bushes, swingsets or other things in the way, consider using putting an external antenna on the receiving unit. It will be vastly superior to using any of the XBee&#039;s built-in antennas and can greatly help reduce misfires. Again, it&#039;s common sense -- try to get the antennae so there are few impediments between them.&lt;br /&gt;
::* Understand that there will be misfires with Ren-W, but there will be fewer of them if you follow these common sense guidelines. Remember, the Renard protocol is asynchronous -- it sends out only and it doesn&#039;t look for any return confirmation that a packet that was sent was actually delivered. This is by design because if communication was poor, there would be a lot slower transfer of data to your controllers because of all the retries going on and your lights would always lag behind your music. Hence, Renard is asynchronous. So is Ren-W for the very same reason. Therefore, to minimize misfires, you need to do everything in your power to allow the best communication between the transmitter and the receivers as you possibly can.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Other Easy Mistakes ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::* Plugging the XBee module into the wrong side of the board for the kind of function the board is to do. Remember:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::::* A receive-ONLY Ren-W has the XBee mounted in the RX (right) side and no jumper is on JP5. The cat5 cable is plugged into J2 and into the J2 socket of the Renard SS controller (the controller&#039;s RS-232 IN port)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::::* A transmit-ONLY Ren-W has the XBee mounted in the TX (left) side and no jumper is on JP5. The cat5 cable is plugged into J1 and into the J1 socket of the Renard SS controller (the controller&#039;s RS-485 OUT port).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::::* An E-Mode Repeater has is exactly the same as a transmit-only board but JP5 is jumpered instead. Cat5 cables connect both jacks J1 and J2 to the Renard controller&#039;s RS-485 OUT and RS-232 IN ports respectively.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::* Connecting J1 to the Renard controller for a receive-only Ren-W won&#039;t work because a receive-only Ren-W uses J2 for the cat5.&lt;br /&gt;
::* Connecting J2 to the Renard controller for a transmit-only Ren-W won&#039;t work because a transmit-only Ren-W uses J1 for the cat5.&lt;br /&gt;
::* Misconfiguring the 16-bit address of an XBee module.&lt;br /&gt;
::* Misconfiguring the LOW address of an XBee module.&lt;br /&gt;
::* Setting the destination address of an XBee module to the wrong address. (This is a hard one to find!)&lt;br /&gt;
::* Setting one radio to transmit to a specific destination XBee but not having the destination XBee in the test.&lt;br /&gt;
::* Changing the PANID to the wrong value; remember, only radios with the same PANID can communcate with one another.&lt;br /&gt;
::* Forgetting to set the Renard controller to accept RS-232 data.&lt;br /&gt;
::* Mounting the Ren-W so the antenna is too close to a transformer or even a triac on the Renard controller can cause erratic transmission and/or reception behavior.&lt;br /&gt;
::* If using the Ren-W to transmit control commands to a Ren-C/595 or Ren-C/Grinch controller, be sure that the cat5 cable that goes from J2 of the Ren-W to the Rs-IN jack of the Ren-C has a choke core balun affixed to it (Radio Shack part# 273-0069). You might also coil the cat5 cable into 4 or 5 loops approx 5&amp;quot; across if the balun alone doesn&#039;t solve the problem. This will reduce the amount of EMI/RFI that the XBee radio produces, which the ren-C may mistakenly see as serial input and cause framing errors. It&#039;s also possible that the framing error LED on a Ren-C may light even though everything is functioning properly. This is likely due to some of the XBee&#039;s EMI getting through anyway and is probably not a critical issue.&lt;br /&gt;
::* Unplugging or plugging-in an XBee module while the Ren-W board is powered up. This can adversely affect and XBee module, and it&#039;s just good practice to remove power from it before unplugging anything.&lt;br /&gt;
::* Resetting an XBee module back to its default specs (an option in the XCTU software) but forgetting to reset the baud rate back to 57600 before putting it back in a Ren-W socket.&lt;br /&gt;
::* Using 57600, 8 bits, Mark parity and 2 stop bits for daisy-chained Ren-W/controllers. Use 57,600, 8, N, 1 instead.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== RS-485 Patch for Ren-W as a Transmitter at the PC ==&lt;br /&gt;
:::NOTE: This patch does not apply to Ren-W SMA boards version 20100622 or the Rev-6 board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:A better and more secure transmitter can be made by using only the -485 signal and allowing the Max232 chip to invert it before sending it to the XBee. The patch has been well-tested and is very easy to make. You probably will need to make the change only to one Ren-W board if you plan to use it as a transmitter direct from your PC instead of using the XBee Explorer board. Here&#039;s how:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:::[[File:Ren-w-485patch.JPG | 400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:* Cut the bottom copper tracing in two places, shown as RED LINES in the picture.&lt;br /&gt;
:* Solder short jumper wires were indicated in BLUE LINES in the picture.&lt;br /&gt;
:* When done, the -485 line will be sent to the Max232 where it will be inverted and sent to the XBee&#039;s input via the zener diode, which will limit the voltage to 3.3v, the maximum prescribed for the XBee.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Transmission Test ==&lt;br /&gt;
: This procedure gives you a chance to see what the Renard data looks like to a controller and it serves ad a terrific way to test a transmitting Ren-W board as well as a receiving XBee module to make sure they&#039;re using the same communication parameters.&lt;br /&gt;
::* Set up a Ren-W in transmit only mode (XBee in the TX side, standard cat5 cable connecting from the RS-OUT jack of the Renard to the RS-IN jack of the Ren-W, Ren-W powered on.)&lt;br /&gt;
::* Plug your computer&#039;s serial output into the Renard controller&#039;s serial IN. Either RS-232 or RS-485 is fine. Just connect it to your computer&#039;s serial port as you would normally.&lt;br /&gt;
::* Use an USB XBee Explorer programmer board with an XBee radio plugged into it as the &amp;quot;receiver.&amp;quot; &lt;br /&gt;
::::* Plug the Explorer board into the computer&lt;br /&gt;
::::* Start up the XCTU software, connect to the XBee radio.&lt;br /&gt;
::::* Open the TERMINAL window, select the SHOW HEX button.&lt;br /&gt;
::::* Leave the screen open so you can view it.&lt;br /&gt;
::* Start up Vixen&lt;br /&gt;
::::* Define a new profile with twice as many channels as the Renard controller you&#039;re using. If it&#039;s an SS16, then create a 32-channel profile using the Renard Dimmer (modified) plugin. &lt;br /&gt;
::::* Open a new sequence and link it to the new profile you just created.&lt;br /&gt;
::::* Make Vixen&#039;s screen smaller so you can see both Vixen and the XCTU Terminal screen at the same time.&lt;br /&gt;
::::* Open Vixen&#039;s channel test feature. When it appears on the screen, your should see a block of HEX information pop into the XCTU screen&#039;s window. You&#039;ll see a 7E 80 sequence followed by as many pairs of zeros as half of your total channel count. If you have defined a 32 channel profile and are using an SS16, then you&#039;ll see sixteen pairs of zeros.&lt;br /&gt;
::::* On Vixen&#039;s channel test box, click the SELECT ALL button. You&#039;ll see the XCTU screen fill with another 7E 80 followed by pairs of FFs, representing &amp;quot;all on&amp;quot; for all the channels. Click the UNSELECT ALL button and the screen will return to zeros.&lt;br /&gt;
::::* Use the slider bar when the lights are &amp;quot;all on&amp;quot; and watch the XCTU screen fill with data. Each slider bar change sends a whole set of data for all channels. You&#039;ll be amazed how much data is processed, and how quickly, too.&lt;br /&gt;
::* You can play an actual sequence in this way, too, and watch all the data flow through to what the transmitting Ren-W board thinks is another Ren-W, but is actually just an XBee radio. You&#039;ll be able to see patterns emerge after a while.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Renard/XBee Timing Issue and Channels 57-64 ==&lt;br /&gt;
: An issue has been reported and reproduced on the Ren64 whereby at 57600 baud, channels 57-64 act inconsistently. They seem to work okay with the ALL CHANNEL test and appear to work okay with most blinky-type activity, but in slower testing, some channels may not come on at all. It&#039;s important to know that the problem is not with the Renard boards or the Renard firmware: the problem is that the XBee&#039;s communication speed is a bit fast and also that certain versions of the XBee firmware have a bug in the serial settings. Changing the firmware and XBee radio to operate at 38400 baud completely solves the problem. However, this also lowers the total number of channels that can be controlled on a single com port at that speed. Another solution is to use only channels 1-56 on the Ren64 controller and continue to operate at 57600, which effectively provides for up to 254 usable channels out of the suggested maximum 286 when sequencing at 50ms. &#039;&#039;&#039;Two additional solutions are available:&#039;&#039;&#039; one is a combination hardware/firmware modification on the Ren64; the second is a firmware modification on the XBee radio coupled with a changed Vixen settiong. Be sure to read BOTH solutions before you start hacking your board! First, the Hardware/Firmware modification of the Ren64 board:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;SOLUTION #1- Hardware/Firmware modification on the Ren64 board - (thanks to tweist!)&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
: Disconnect pin 5 of the U14 pic, and connect a jumper wire between pin5 and pin 1 of U5 (the rightmost ST485BN chip). Then reflash the firmware on the U14 pic with start address 4.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
: Here&#039;s a slick way to do it that won&#039;t compromise any traces on the Ren64 board:&lt;br /&gt;
::1. Bend pin 5 of a spare 14-pin DIP socket out to the side and piggyback it into the U14 socket. Solder a small wire onto the exposed pin 5.&lt;br /&gt;
::::[[File:Ren64-mod2.JPG | 500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::2. Drill a small hole next to U14 and fish the wire through it. There is ample room for the hole, but use caution nevertheless. A small piece of tape on either side of the piggybacked socket will keep it snug.&lt;br /&gt;
::::[[File:Ren64-mod1.JPG | 500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::3. Solder the wire to pin 1 of U5 on the bottom of the board.&lt;br /&gt;
::::[[File:Ren64-mod3.JPG | 200px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::4. Remember to flash the U14 pic with start address firmware set with start_addr 4.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;SOLUTION #2 - XBee Firmware Upgrade/Vixen 2 stop bits&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
: Unsolvable communication issues have been reported by users who have XBee radios that use XBee firmware version 10CD. It is possible that other versions also have a similar problem, but upgrading the XBee firmware to version 10E6 apparently solves the issue when you set the XBee firmware&#039;s parity setting to 3-MARK PARITY. The other setting change is to set your Renard plugin com settings to 57600, 8 data bits and 2 stop bits. However, one of the other issues is that XBee version 10CD is quite cantankerous and generally doesn&#039;t upgrade itself. Here&#039;s the solution to that:&lt;br /&gt;
:::* Be sure your XCTU software has version 10E6 available in the version box. XCTU has a button option to check for new versions on the Digi web site.&lt;br /&gt;
:::* Restore the XBee radio to the factory default settings by clicking the RESTORE button.&lt;br /&gt;
:::* Change your XTCU settings to the default 9600 baud, 8 data bits, no parity and 1 stop bit and load the XBee configuration. Verify that it has version 10CD. (If you don&#039;t have 10CD, you can use this procedure to update it to 10E6 anyway.)&lt;br /&gt;
:::* Check the box to &amp;quot;Always update firmware&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
:::* Choose version 10A5 in the version window. (Yes, you have to DOWNGRADE it first.)&lt;br /&gt;
:::* Click the WRITE button to write the changes, initialize the radio and reprogram it with 10A5 firmware.&lt;br /&gt;
:::* (Do the next two steps very quickly!) When done, uplug the XBee radio so it has no power.&lt;br /&gt;
:::* Re-plug in the XBee, open it again and read the settings.&lt;br /&gt;
:::* Make sure the &amp;quot;Always update firmware&amp;quot; box is checked.&lt;br /&gt;
:::* Choose version 10E6 in the version window.&lt;br /&gt;
:::* Click the WRITE button again.&lt;br /&gt;
:::* When finished, unplug the radio again to remove power, then plug it back in and read the settings again. You should see version 10E6 in the version box.&lt;br /&gt;
:::* Make the normal changes as already suggested (PanID, No-Acks, 57600 baud, packetization timeout 0).&lt;br /&gt;
:::* Change the PARITY setting to 3-MARK PARITY&lt;br /&gt;
:::* Write the settings to the radio.&lt;br /&gt;
:::* Make sure Vixen&#039;s com settings for the Renard plug-in is set to MARK parity and 2 stop bits also.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Additional Ren-W Links&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Renard Wireless Converter]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W BOM and Construction]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Configuration Concepts]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W XBee Radio Configuration]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Questions/Answers]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Troubleshooting]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Antenna Info]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Controller Heater]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8102 Ren-W Topic on the DIYC Forums]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Ren-W]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:DIYC Index]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Dirknerkle</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=Ren-W_Troubleshooting&amp;diff=6926</id>
		<title>Ren-W Troubleshooting</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=Ren-W_Troubleshooting&amp;diff=6926"/>
		<updated>2012-04-24T00:26:11Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Dirknerkle: /* Construction Mistakes */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;The Ren-W circuit board is a very simple design but good soldering technique is still extremely important.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Voltage Measurements: three test points are just below pin 16 of the MAX232 chip/socket (circled in red):&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::::[[File:Ren-w-closeup.JPG |500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Construction Mistakes ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
: Be certain that the following components are mounted on the board properly:&lt;br /&gt;
::* The notch on the MAX232 chip faces to the right, toward the U1 voltage regulator.&lt;br /&gt;
::* The zener diode (D1) has the black stripe on the TOP, next to the JP6 header pins. On the Rev-6 board the diode stripe is on the BOTTOM.&lt;br /&gt;
::* The 3.3 voltage regulator (U1) has the metal tab facing up, toward the JP2 header pins. On the Rev-6 board, the metal tab faces to the right, toward the C3 capacitor.&lt;br /&gt;
::* The electrolytic capacitor (C3) has the - stripe facing DOWN toward the LED, which means the + side is up toward the J2 jack.&lt;br /&gt;
::* Capacitors C1, C2 and C3 are needed at the very least and if you find that your Ren-W doesn&#039;t work without optional capacitors C4, C5 and C6, install them and you&#039;ll probably solve your problem. These three additional capacitors do a lot to clean up the RS-232 serial signal output and adding C4, C5 and C6 are highly recommended if you encounter inconsistent communication from the Ren-W to your Renard controller.&lt;br /&gt;
::* If using an electrolytic capacitor for C1, C2, C4, C5 or C6, be sure its polarity is correct. The + sides are marked on the board; the opposite side it obviously the - side, which is marked on the capacitor itself.&lt;br /&gt;
::* The LED (D2) while not very clear in this photo, has the kathode (flat side) facing the mounting hole to its right. On the Rev-6 board, the flat side faces to the right, toward the U1 voltage regulator.&lt;br /&gt;
::* Resistor R1 (33 ohms) is immediately below the MAX232 chip. The resistor has no polarity concerns.&lt;br /&gt;
::* Resistor R2 (1k ohms) is immediately below the U1 voltage regulator. The resistor has no polarity concerns.&lt;br /&gt;
::* Be sure to observe the XBee module&#039;s orientation as printed on the board; remember that the standard board has the XBee pointing upward while the SMA board has the module pointing downward. If you have the standard board, DO NOT simply turn the module around to point downward for an XBee module with an SMA connector -- it will not work and you may damage the radio when power is applied!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:::::[[File:Ren-w_parts_location.JPG |500px]]   [[File:Renwrev6.jpg |200px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Soldering Mistakes ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::::[[File:Ren-w-copperB.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
:When you study the underside (copper) side of the circuit board, a few things become readily apparent:&lt;br /&gt;
::* Very few pins of the XBee radio modules are actually used; most are unused and serve only to hold the header sockets securely.&lt;br /&gt;
::* The solder pads for the XBee headers are very small; accurate and careful soldering is a must to prevent solder bridges. A solder bridge could easily prevent the XBee radio from functioning properly and could damage it. Note the elongated pads for the XBee headers, too. These provide home etch boards will a larger soldering surface.&lt;br /&gt;
::* Note that the cat5 jacks J1 and J2 include additional solder pads for pins that don&#039;t connect to anything. These are provided for home etch boards by providing additional soldering area and strength in holding the jacks to the board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Cabling Mistakes ==&lt;br /&gt;
::* The Ren-W does not need a special cable when connecting J1 or J2 to the Renard controller. A standard cat5 cable with standard pinouts should work fine. It&#039;s a good idea to keep this relatively short inside a controller box so that you don&#039;t end up with a coil of wire, which could affect transmission. Otherwise, the length of the cat5 cables connecting the Ren-W to the controller should be limited to 50 feet or less, the recommended maximum for RS-232 communications.&lt;br /&gt;
::* When connecting a Ren-W directly to a computer&#039;s -485 output to be a &amp;quot;transmit only&amp;quot; unit, remember that the Ren-W takes input only on pin 4 of J1 connector and ground is made on pins 1-2. You may need to make a special cable by connecting -485 to pin 4 before plugging it into J1 of the Ren-W. Ren-W does not use pin 5.&lt;br /&gt;
::* If the Ren-W locks up unexpectedly when connected to a PC in transmit only mode and only unplugging power temporarily restores operations, check the input voltage of the RS-485 line connecting into J1 of the Ren-W; it should be the -485 line.&lt;br /&gt;
::* The Rev-6 version of the Ren-W board requires that JP2 on an SS8, SS16 or SS24 sontroller be open and not shunted. This is because Rev-6 has only one RJ45 jack, and it uses a different physical connection point to the SS board. (JP2 is the termination resistor on an SS controller)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Interaction With other Wi-Fi Devices ==&lt;br /&gt;
::Xbee radios operate in the 2.4ghz frequency spectrum, the same spectrum as your wi-fi router or wireless access point. It is possible that you may encounter interaction between the two if the wi-fi device is in close proximity to a receiving XBee radio. The symptom is misfires or it may even appear to be randomly responsive. For example, a wireless laptop with a live, wireless connection could negatively influence the reception of a nearby controller with a Ren-W, or a wireless webcam placed near a remote controller with a Ren-W could easily influence that Ren-W&#039;s ability to discriminate the Xbee control signal if the webcam&#039;s transmission is too strong.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::Possible solution: Wireless routers, webcams, access points (etc.) usually have the option to use a &amp;quot;channel&amp;quot; as the primary communicating link. XBee radios also have a channel setting and depending on whether it&#039;s a regular Xbee or an XBPro, the channel options may differ. The default XBee channel is channel &amp;quot;C.&amp;quot; Try changing the XBee radios to a different channel and see if the conflicts go away. Note that the channel setting must be made on ALL XBees that are to communicate with one another.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Interaction with FM Radio Transmitter Antenna ==&lt;br /&gt;
::Even though normal broadcast FM is in the megahertz frequency range while XBee radios communicate in the gigahertz range, it&#039;s possible that when the XBee transmitting radio is very close to the FM transmitter&#039;s antenna, some interaction may occur causing either distortion in the FM radio signal or possibly some interference with the XBee if the FM transmitter is very powerful. It&#039;s probably best to keep them separated by a few feet if possible.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Using Common Sense ==&lt;br /&gt;
::* Ren-W&#039;s will communicate best when there is a direct line-of-sight between the transmitter and the receiver. It&#039;s just obvious common sense to place the transmitting antenna in such a place where it will have the fewest things between it and the receiving units. If your receiving Ren-Ws are in the front yard, then putting the transmitter in the back yard doesn&#039;t make a lot of sense and you&#039;ll likely encounter misfires because of it.&lt;br /&gt;
::* When you place your receiving unit/controller on the ground, or near your display, place it so that the antenna is closer to the transmitting antenna. If the antenna is inside the controller&#039;s case and in a corner, place the controller so that corner is the closest corner to the transmitting antenna. Just good common sense.&lt;br /&gt;
::* If your transmitting antenna is vertical, then when you position your controllers/receiving Ren-Ws, place them so that their antennae are parallel to the transmitter so as to maximize the reception of the radio waves. In some cases, the units may be so close to the transmitting antenna that it doesn&#039;t matter, and that&#039;s fine, but the further away you get, the more important it will be to minimize misfires.&lt;br /&gt;
::* If a receiving unit is quite distant or has many trees, bushes, swingsets or other things in the way, consider using putting an external antenna on the receiving unit. It will be vastly superior to using any of the XBee&#039;s built-in antennas and can greatly help reduce misfires. Again, it&#039;s common sense -- try to get the antennae so there are few impediments between them.&lt;br /&gt;
::* Understand that there will be misfires with Ren-W, but there will be fewer of them if you follow these common sense guidelines. Remember, the Renard protocol is asynchronous -- it sends out only and it doesn&#039;t look for any return confirmation that a packet that was sent was actually delivered. This is by design because if communication was poor, there would be a lot slower transfer of data to your controllers because of all the retries going on and your lights would always lag behind your music. Hence, Renard is asynchronous. So is Ren-W for the very same reason. Therefore, to minimize misfires, you need to do everything in your power to allow the best communication between the transmitter and the receivers as you possibly can.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Other Easy Mistakes ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::* Plugging the XBee module into the wrong side of the board for the kind of function the board is to do. Remember:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::::* A receive-ONLY Ren-W has the XBee mounted in the RX (right) side and no jumper is on JP5. The cat5 cable is plugged into J2 and into the J2 socket of the Renard SS controller (the controller&#039;s RS-232 IN port)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::::* A transmit-ONLY Ren-W has the XBee mounted in the TX (left) side and no jumper is on JP5. The cat5 cable is plugged into J1 and into the J1 socket of the Renard SS controller (the controller&#039;s RS-485 OUT port).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::::* An E-Mode Repeater has is exactly the same as a transmit-only board but JP5 is jumpered instead. Cat5 cables connect both jacks J1 and J2 to the Renard controller&#039;s RS-485 OUT and RS-232 IN ports respectively.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::* Connecting J1 to the Renard controller for a receive-only Ren-W won&#039;t work because a receive-only Ren-W uses J2 for the cat5.&lt;br /&gt;
::* Connecting J2 to the Renard controller for a transmit-only Ren-W won&#039;t work because a transmit-only Ren-W uses J1 for the cat5.&lt;br /&gt;
::* Misconfiguring the 16-bit address of an XBee module.&lt;br /&gt;
::* Misconfiguring the LOW address of an XBee module.&lt;br /&gt;
::* Setting the destination address of an XBee module to the wrong address. (This is a hard one to find!)&lt;br /&gt;
::* Setting one radio to transmit to a specific destination XBee but not having the destination XBee in the test.&lt;br /&gt;
::* Changing the PANID to the wrong value; remember, only radios with the same PANID can communcate with one another.&lt;br /&gt;
::* Forgetting to set the Renard controller to accept RS-232 data.&lt;br /&gt;
::* Mounting the Ren-W so the antenna is too close to a transformer or even a triac on the Renard controller can cause erratic transmission and/or reception behavior.&lt;br /&gt;
::* If using the Ren-W to transmit control commands to a Ren-C/595 or Ren-C/Grinch controller, be sure that the cat5 cable that goes from J2 of the Ren-W to the Rs-IN jack of the Ren-C has a choke core balun affixed to it (Radio Shack part# 273-0069). You might also coil the cat5 cable into 4 or 5 loops approx 5&amp;quot; across if the balun alone doesn&#039;t solve the problem. This will reduce the amount of EMI/RFI that the XBee radio produces, which the ren-C may mistakenly see as serial input and cause framing errors. It&#039;s also possible that the framing error LED on a Ren-C may light even though everything is functioning properly. This is likely due to some of the XBee&#039;s EMI getting through anyway and is probably not a critical issue.&lt;br /&gt;
::* Unplugging or plugging-in an XBee module while the Ren-W board is powered up. This can adversely affect and XBee module, and it&#039;s just good practice to remove power from it before unplugging anything.&lt;br /&gt;
::* Resetting an XBee module back to its default specs (an option in the XCTU software) but forgetting to reset the baud rate back to 57600 before putting it back in a Ren-W socket.&lt;br /&gt;
::* Using 57600, 8 bits, Mark parity and 2 stop bits for daisy-chained Ren-W/controllers. Use 57,600, 8, N, 1 instead.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== RS-485 Patch for Ren-W as a Transmitter at the PC ==&lt;br /&gt;
:::NOTE: This patch does not apply to Ren-W SMA boards version 20100622 or the Rev-6 board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:A better and more secure transmitter can be made by using only the -485 signal and allowing the Max232 chip to invert it before sending it to the XBee. The patch has been well-tested and is very easy to make. You probably will need to make the change only to one Ren-W board if you plan to use it as a transmitter direct from your PC instead of using the XBee Explorer board. Here&#039;s how:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:::[[File:Ren-w-485patch.JPG | 400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:* Cut the bottom copper tracing in two places, shown as RED LINES in the picture.&lt;br /&gt;
:* Solder short jumper wires were indicated in BLUE LINES in the picture.&lt;br /&gt;
:* When done, the -485 line will be sent to the Max232 where it will be inverted and sent to the XBee&#039;s input via the zener diode, which will limit the voltage to 3.3v, the maximum prescribed for the XBee.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Transmission Test ==&lt;br /&gt;
: This procedure gives you a chance to see what the Renard data looks like to a controller and it serves ad a terrific way to test a transmitting Ren-W board as well as a receiving XBee module to make sure they&#039;re using the same communication parameters.&lt;br /&gt;
::* Set up a Ren-W in transmit only mode (XBee in the TX side, standard cat5 cable connecting from the RS-OUT jack of the Renard to the RS-IN jack of the Ren-W, Ren-W powered on.)&lt;br /&gt;
::* Plug your computer&#039;s serial output into the Renard controller&#039;s serial IN. Either RS-232 or RS-485 is fine. Just connect it to your computer&#039;s serial port as you would normally.&lt;br /&gt;
::* Use an USB XBee Explorer programmer board with an XBee radio plugged into it as the &amp;quot;receiver.&amp;quot; &lt;br /&gt;
::::* Plug the Explorer board into the computer&lt;br /&gt;
::::* Start up the XCTU software, connect to the XBee radio.&lt;br /&gt;
::::* Open the TERMINAL window, select the SHOW HEX button.&lt;br /&gt;
::::* Leave the screen open so you can view it.&lt;br /&gt;
::* Start up Vixen&lt;br /&gt;
::::* Define a new profile with twice as many channels as the Renard controller you&#039;re using. If it&#039;s an SS16, then create a 32-channel profile using the Renard Dimmer (modified) plugin. &lt;br /&gt;
::::* Open a new sequence and link it to the new profile you just created.&lt;br /&gt;
::::* Make Vixen&#039;s screen smaller so you can see both Vixen and the XCTU Terminal screen at the same time.&lt;br /&gt;
::::* Open Vixen&#039;s channel test feature. When it appears on the screen, your should see a block of HEX information pop into the XCTU screen&#039;s window. You&#039;ll see a 7E 80 sequence followed by as many pairs of zeros as half of your total channel count. If you have defined a 32 channel profile and are using an SS16, then you&#039;ll see sixteen pairs of zeros.&lt;br /&gt;
::::* On Vixen&#039;s channel test box, click the SELECT ALL button. You&#039;ll see the XCTU screen fill with another 7E 80 followed by pairs of FFs, representing &amp;quot;all on&amp;quot; for all the channels. Click the UNSELECT ALL button and the screen will return to zeros.&lt;br /&gt;
::::* Use the slider bar when the lights are &amp;quot;all on&amp;quot; and watch the XCTU screen fill with data. Each slider bar change sends a whole set of data for all channels. You&#039;ll be amazed how much data is processed, and how quickly, too.&lt;br /&gt;
::* You can play an actual sequence in this way, too, and watch all the data flow through to what the transmitting Ren-W board thinks is another Ren-W, but is actually just an XBee radio. You&#039;ll be able to see patterns emerge after a while.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Renard/XBee Timing Issue and Channels 57-64 ==&lt;br /&gt;
: An issue has been reported and reproduced on the Ren64 whereby at 57600 baud, channels 57-64 act inconsistently. They seem to work okay with the ALL CHANNEL test and appear to work okay with most blinky-type activity, but in slower testing, some channels may not come on at all. It&#039;s important to know that the problem is not with the Renard boards or the Renard firmware: the problem is that the XBee&#039;s communication speed is a bit fast and also that certain versions of the XBee firmware have a bug in the serial settings. Changing the firmware and XBee radio to operate at 38400 baud completely solves the problem. However, this also lowers the total number of channels that can be controlled on a single com port at that speed. Another solution is to use only channels 1-56 on the Ren64 controller and continue to operate at 57600, which effectively provides for up to 254 usable channels out of the suggested maximum 286 when sequencing at 50ms. &#039;&#039;&#039;Two additional solutions are available:&#039;&#039;&#039; one is a combination hardware/firmware modification on the Ren64; the second is a firmware modification on the XBee radio coupled with a changed Vixen settiong. Be sure to read BOTH solutions before you start hacking your board! First, the Hardware/Firmware modification of the Ren64 board:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;SOLUTION #1- Hardware/Firmware modification on the Ren64 board - (thanks to tweist!)&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
: Disconnect pin 5 of the U14 pic, and connect a jumper wire between pin5 and pin 1 of U5 (the rightmost ST485BN chip). Then reflash the firmware on the U14 pic with start address 4.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
: Here&#039;s a slick way to do it that won&#039;t compromise any traces on the Ren64 board:&lt;br /&gt;
::1. Bend pin 5 of a spare 14-pin DIP socket out to the side and piggyback it into the U14 socket. Solder a small wire onto the exposed pin 5.&lt;br /&gt;
::::[[File:Ren64-mod2.JPG | 500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::2. Drill a small hole next to U14 and fish the wire through it. There is ample room for the hole, but use caution nevertheless. A small piece of tape on either side of the piggybacked socket will keep it snug.&lt;br /&gt;
::::[[File:Ren64-mod1.JPG | 500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::3. Solder the wire to pin 1 of U5 on the bottom of the board.&lt;br /&gt;
::::[[File:Ren64-mod3.JPG | 200px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::4. Remember to flash the U14 pic with start address firmware set with start_addr 4.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;SOLUTION #2 - XBee Firmware Upgrade/Vixen 2 stop bits&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
: Unsolvable communication issues have been reported by users who have XBee radios that use XBee firmware version 10CD. It is possible that other versions also have a similar problem, but upgrading the XBee firmware to version 10E6 apparently solves the issue when you set the XBee firmware&#039;s parity setting to 3-MARK PARITY. The other setting change is to set your Renard plugin com settings to 57600, 8 data bits and 2 stop bits. However, one of the other issues is that XBee version 10CD is quite cantankerous and generally doesn&#039;t upgrade itself. Here&#039;s the solution to that:&lt;br /&gt;
:::* Be sure your XCTU software has version 10E6 available in the version box. XCTU has a button option to check for new versions on the Digi web site.&lt;br /&gt;
:::* Restore the XBee radio to the factory default settings by clicking the RESTORE button.&lt;br /&gt;
:::* Change your XTCU settings to the default 9600 baud, 8 data bits, no parity and 1 stop bit and load the XBee configuration. Verify that it has version 10CD. (If you don&#039;t have 10CD, you can use this procedure to update it to 10E6 anyway.)&lt;br /&gt;
:::* Check the box to &amp;quot;Always update firmware&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
:::* Choose version 10A5 in the version window. (Yes, you have to DOWNGRADE it first.)&lt;br /&gt;
:::* Click the WRITE button to write the changes, initialize the radio and reprogram it with 10A5 firmware.&lt;br /&gt;
:::* (Do the next two steps very quickly!) When done, uplug the XBee radio so it has no power.&lt;br /&gt;
:::* Re-plug in the XBee, open it again and read the settings.&lt;br /&gt;
:::* Make sure the &amp;quot;Always update firmware&amp;quot; box is checked.&lt;br /&gt;
:::* Choose version 10E6 in the version window.&lt;br /&gt;
:::* Click the WRITE button again.&lt;br /&gt;
:::* When finished, unplug the radio again to remove power, then plug it back in and read the settings again. You should see version 10E6 in the version box.&lt;br /&gt;
:::* Make the normal changes as already suggested (PanID, No-Acks, 57600 baud, packetization timeout 0).&lt;br /&gt;
:::* Change the PARITY setting to 3-MARK PARITY&lt;br /&gt;
:::* Write the settings to the radio.&lt;br /&gt;
:::* Make sure Vixen&#039;s com settings for the Renard plug-in is set to MARK parity and 2 stop bits also.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Additional Ren-W Links&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Renard Wireless Converter]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W BOM and Construction]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Configuration Concepts]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W XBee Radio Configuration]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Questions/Answers]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Troubleshooting]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Antenna Info]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Controller Heater]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8102 Ren-W Topic on the DIYC Forums]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Ren-W]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:DIYC Index]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Dirknerkle</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=Ren-W_Questions/Answers&amp;diff=6925</id>
		<title>Ren-W Questions/Answers</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=Ren-W_Questions/Answers&amp;diff=6925"/>
		<updated>2012-04-24T00:24:39Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Dirknerkle: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;*&#039;&#039;&#039;Can a Ren-W be connected directly to the computer?&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
*Yes, but early versions of the Ren-W board priot to 20100622 may need the RS485 patch (see troubleshooting page) for it to work reliably unless the Ren-W board is version 20100622 or later; the later revision does not require the patch. The patch uses only the ground and -485 signals. However, the board in its current state works fine with passive RS232 - RS485 adapters such as the Sintech 9309, which is available for about $8 from [http://www.dealextreme.com/search.dx/search.sintech%209309 www.dealextreme.com]. I&#039;ve used this off my PC&#039;s RS-232 port and connected it directly to the Ren-W without any problems whatsoever. &#039;&#039;&#039;Bottom line:&#039;&#039;&#039; the best way to transmit directly from the computer is to use the XBee USB Explorer instead of a Ren-W. The Explorer doubles as the programmer board, but it&#039;s a fantastic transmitter, and appears to your computer just like a normal COM port, so configuring Vixen to use it is a snap. Then you can put all your Ren-Ws out in the field.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*&#039;&#039;&#039;Can the Ren-W be used with a USB RS-232 to RS-485 converter?&#039;&#039;&#039; &lt;br /&gt;
*Yes. See above.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*&#039;&#039;&#039;Will RS-232 work with the Ren-W?&#039;&#039;&#039; &lt;br /&gt;
*Yes, as long as the board has been modified as per the RS485 patch outlined on the Ren-W troubleshooting page of the Wiki (pre-20100622 boards only). In addition, you&#039;ll want to connect RS232 ground (pin 5) to the Ren-W&#039;s J1 pin 1 and RS232 pin 3 to the Ren-W&#039;s J1 pin 4. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*&#039;&#039;&#039;Are the SMA and Rev-6 versions of the Ren-W interchangeable?&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
*Not directly. You&#039;ll find that using the Rev-6 board with an SS controller requires that JP2 on the SS controller be open and not shunted. (JP2 is the termination resistor on the SS board).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*&#039;&#039;&#039;Do I have to use a special serial port setting with the Ren-W?&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
*Generally, yes. The best setting to use is 57600 baud, 8 data bits, 2 stop bits and Mark parity. This should be configured in both your Vixen plugin AND in the XBee radios themselves. The Renard firmware should also be set to 57600 baud so that the PICs are in sync, too. Note that 57600, 8 data bits, 1 stop bit and NO parity works generally works fine, although you may experience a few data packet dropouts when there are more than 57 channels connected to the same Ren-W board, such as with a Ren64. When daisy-chaining one controller to the next via Ren-Ws, the XBee radios in the daisy-chained Ren-W/controllers must be set to 57600, 8 bits, NO parity and 1 stop bit.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*&#039;&#039;&#039;Can the Ren-W be powered independently instead of powered by the SS board?&#039;&#039;&#039; &lt;br /&gt;
*Yes. Connect +5vdv to either pin of the JP3 header and ground (-) to either pin of the JP4 header. Do not use a power supply that provides more than +5vdc and never connect JP3 to JP4! (&#039;&#039;&#039;Note:&#039;&#039;&#039; the Ren-W&#039;s voltage regulator should not become hot during normal use. Ren-W has been tested with a 12vdc supply and the regulator gets quite warm when powered this way. If you must power the Ren-W with 12vdc, consider attaching a heat sink to the back of the U1 voltage regulator.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*&#039;&#039;&#039;What kind of current draw does a Ren-W have?&#039;&#039;&#039; &lt;br /&gt;
*More current is used when an XBee module is transmitting than receiving. The higher-powered XBee Pro module requires upwards of 290ma while the standard XBee module requires only about 50ma. The 3.3vdc voltage regulator on the Ren-W is rated up to 500ma. Because the Ren-W draws its +5v power directly from the Renard SS controller, Ren-W users who experience inconsistent or erratic transmission performance may consider replacing the SS controller’s LF50CV ½-amp voltage regulator (Mouser # 511-LF50CV) with an LF50CP instead ( # 511-LF50CP), which has a full 1A capacity.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*&#039;&#039;&#039;Does cat5 cable length matter when connecting a Ren-W to an SS controller? &#039;&#039;&#039; &lt;br /&gt;
*Both RS-232 and RS-485 are pretty robust and with RS-485, long cable lengths (up to 4000’) are certainly possible. We’ve tested RS-232 with 100’ cable without a problem but as the basic concept of Ren-W was to eliminate cables, keep them as short as possible anyway.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*&#039;&#039;&#039;Can I mix Global Broadcast mode with PTP mode?&#039;&#039;&#039; &lt;br /&gt;
*Theoretically yes, if you’re very clever with using combinations of the XBee’s PAN ID and addressing configurations and don’t mind experimenting to see what works best for you. However, start_address firmware in a global broadcast most is most likely going to give you every bit of the flexibility you need, making PTP unnecessary.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*&#039;&#039;&#039;Can I mix SS8, SS16 and SS24 boards in the same Ren-W network?&#039;&#039;&#039; &lt;br /&gt;
*Yes. In PTP mode, they will function just as if they were connected via cat5 cable (use 57600, 8,N,1 settings). In global broadcast mode where each Ren-W receives the same commands instead of only those passed on from the previous controller, use start_address firmware to tell the controllers which channels they should react to. Re-read the “Renard basics and how they relate to Ren-W” section on the first page of the Ren-W Wiki.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*&#039;&#039;&#039;Can I mix hardwired SS controllers with Ren-W wireless controllers?&#039;&#039;&#039; &lt;br /&gt;
*Yes, Ren-W was designed to be an easy add-on to an existing wired system in either or both global broadcast, PTP or alternate PTP broadcast modes.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*&#039;&#039;&#039;Can I use a Ren-W with my Ren-C/595 or Ren-C/Grinch controllers?&#039;&#039;&#039; &lt;br /&gt;
*Yes. It works very well when the RS-OUT of the Ren-C is plugged into the Ren-W&#039;s input for transmitting the signal out to the network. However, when the Ren-W is to &#039;&#039;control&#039;&#039; the Ren-C/595 or Grinch, it is necessary to also use a snap choke core balun on the cat5 cable going into the Ren-C&#039;s RS-IN jack (Radio Shack part# 273-0069). The balun eliminates EMI/RFI interference generated in the cat5 cable that&#039;s caused by the XBee radio module. Without the balun, the Ren-C will likely encounter framing errors and will not communicate with the Ren-W. Power for the Ren-W can be tapped from the 595/Grinch +5v header pins, from the Ren-C’s vcc header pin immediately to the left of the 2N3904 transistor (Q1) or from the Ren-C’s vcc header pin of the JP6 PGM row (2nd pin from the top). Note that the ZC signal must be supplied to the Ren-C directly and cannot be passed along wirelessly by the Ren-W.  The Ren-C’s RS-485 RS-OUT serial signal is approximately 4.52vdc, which is still within the acceptable range that Ren-W can accommodate.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*&#039;&#039;&#039;Do I always need two XBee modules on a repeater board?&#039;&#039;&#039; &lt;br /&gt;
*Yes and no – it depends on whether the Ren-W is serving as a normal repeater or whether you want it to be an E-mode repeater. The normal repeater board uses two XBee modules, one for receiving and the other for transmitting. The E-mode repeater uses only one XBee module which performs both receiving and transmitting functions. Other than the obvious price difference between the two types of repeater boards because of the added XBee module, it’s important to understand that there may also be a performance difference because a single XBee module can’t perform receiving and transmitting simultaneously. It’s important to note that the design of the Ren-W allows switching from E-mode to normal mode by simply disconnecting the jumper shunt on JP5 and of course, adding and configuring the second XBee module. So one can always start with the E-mode repeater and if a performance lag is encountered, you can always switch to normal mode without having to take out the soldering iron.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*&#039;&#039;&#039;Can I use “global broadcast” mode yet have each Renard controller respond to its own range of Vixen channels?&#039;&#039;&#039; &lt;br /&gt;
*Yes, and this is the best and most flexible way to use Ren-W in your display. You will need to use the Renard Start Address firmware to set the start address for your controller&#039;s first PIC. Be sure to read the Renard Start Address Configuration Guide for using this special firmware: [http://www.christmasinshirley.com/wiki/index.php?title=Renard_Start_Address_Configuration_Guide Renard Start Address Configuration guide].  Another way to &amp;quot;skin the cat&amp;quot; would be to think a little creatively. For example, if you used three 24-channel controllers and set up each of their Ren-W receivers so that all three received the same &amp;quot;broadcast&amp;quot; signal, you could connect lights to only channels 1-8 of the first controller (leaving channels 9-24 unused), channels 9-16 of the second controller and 17-24 of the third controller to simulate &amp;quot;broadcast addressing.&amp;quot; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*&#039;&#039;&#039;Can the Ren-W work with other Renard controllers such as the Renard 16, Renard 24 or Renard 64?&#039;&#039;&#039; &lt;br /&gt;
*Yes, but some versions of Renard controllers may have different design versions and the RJ45 serial pin outs as well as the serial signal may vary from the Renard SS board’s design. The Ren-W was originally designed to be a plug-in option for WayneJ&#039;s Renard SS controllers but it has been successfully tested with wjohn&#039;s Ren64 (v. XC5), budude&#039;s Ren48LSD, fkostyun&#039;s Ren24 version 3.0 and 3.3 &#039;&#039;&#039;(thanks to DIYC members penfold and kychristmas!)&#039;&#039;&#039; and the Ren24LV, and the Simple Renard 24 and Simple Renard 32. If the RJ45 pinouts are the same as the Renard standard, it should work. However, if the pinouts are different from the Renard standard, you just have to make your own custom cat5 connection cables to connect the Ren-W to the Renard board instead of using the standard, straight-through cat5 cabling scheme. It is also possible that the use of the choke core balun (as for the Ren-C adapter) may be required to help reduce line noise.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*&#039;&#039;&#039;Will the Ren-W work with DMX?&#039;&#039;&#039; &lt;br /&gt;
*No, because DMX requires a higher throughput than the XBee’s maximum. An XBee is limited to 115,200 and was designed to accommodate streaming data only up to 80kbps. DMX’s communication need is normally higher than that, in the neighborhood of 250kbps. It has been tested with RPM&#039;s USB DMX dongle and was proven not to work, but you could certainly give it a go – the Ren-W simply transfers a serial signal from one place to another. You’ll obviously have to consider the connector pin outs used for DMX and you may end up creating your own connection cables to/from the Ren-W to/from your DMX setup, but a completed pair of Ren-W boards are relatively inexpensive to make so the cost of experimentation isn’t very great.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*&#039;&#039;&#039;Can a Ren-W be used with other light controllers or other devices to create a wireless connection?&#039;&#039;&#039; &lt;br /&gt;
*Maybe. Remember, Ren-W is essentially a wireless serial connection which means that theoretically, it could connect most any serial devices because it’s essentially transparent to the two devices involved – it merely inputs a serial data packet on the transmitting Ren-W’s J1 connector, translates it into a TTL data stream and transmits it to another Ren-W where the data stream is recombined into the serial data packet and output via the receiving Ren-W’s J2 connector. Because it’s a serial device, remember that the serial communication parameters (8 data bits, no parity, no stop in the case of the Renard controllers) can be changed to match a different packet structure such as 7 data bits, even parity, an 1 stop and that such configuration is done inside the XBee modules using the XCTU software. Obviously the transmitting and receiving units must be configured with the same communication parameters so that the serial data at the receiving Ren-W’s output port J2 is in the same format as it was originally when it went into the transmitting Ren-W. Another consideration is that an XBee’s maximum transmission speed is 115,200 bps but is really rated at only 80kbps in continuous, streaming data situations which may or may not be adequate in every case.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*&#039;&#039;&#039;Will the super-powered 900mhz XBee radio modules work for even greater range?&#039;&#039;&#039; &lt;br /&gt;
*Maybe. Some radios in the XBee line supposedly provide a line-of-sight range of up to 12 miles, but they may not have the same speed throughput capability that you may need and their electrical power requirements may be greater than are designed into the Ren-W board. The concept still is sound, but they may not be a drop-in replacement for the current Ren-W design. However, Ren-W has been tested to easily provide 1000&#039; range when external Wi-Fi antennas are used (using the XBee Pro with SMA connector) so it&#039;s a bit hard to understand why you&#039;d need more distance than that. However, the 900mhz radio does not have the same baud rate options as the normal radio, so using it may provide mixed results.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*&#039;&#039;&#039;Is a Programmer Board a necessity or can I get by without one?&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
*It&#039;s not terribly difficult to program an XBee using the Ren-W board and information about doing that is included in the configuration section of the Ren-W wiki pages. However, it is a little tricky to accomplish consistently and the programmer board is well worth the purchase and provides for duplex communication with the XBee radio, as well as a way to test modules, test communication, test settings, etc. before putting the units in the field. It can also be used as the originator transmitting module and Vixen can easily be configured to use it. So yes, you can &#039;get by&#039; but like having a Pic programmer if you use Renard, having an XBee programmer can be just as beneficial. An inexpensive Ren-W explorer solution is to rig-up a special cable that connects RS232 pin 3 to pin 4 of the Ren-W&#039;s J1 jack and RS232 pin 2 to pin 4 of the Ren-W&#039;s J2 jack, with RS232 pin 5 (ground) connected to the Ren-W&#039;s pin 1. Then put the XBee radio in the TX (left) side of the board and place a jumper on JP5. This creates a duplex communication setup with your computer and you can use the XCTU software as you would normally, or even Windows HyperTerminal to program the XBee radio&#039;s settings. It&#039;s not nearly as efficient or quick as using the XBee USB Explorer board, but it can work if you&#039;re patient and want to save the $25 cost of the USB Explorer. A handy solution is to construct your own Ren-W Explorer board such as this one which makes all the proper connections as outlined above. It can also be used to easily connect your RS232 cable to a Ren-W transmitter at the PC:&lt;br /&gt;
::::[[File:Renw_explorer.jpg | 300px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*&#039;&#039;&#039;Will a version of Ren-W be available for parallel port controllers?&#039;&#039;&#039; &lt;br /&gt;
*No, there are no plans to create a parallel port version. Parallel port-based technology has rapidly lost popularity over the past few years and many computer manufacturers no longer even include parallel ports on their products. However, you could certainly try using a parallel-to-serial converter at the computer end, feed the resulting serial signal into J1 of the transmitting Ren-W and at the receiving Ren-W’s J2 jack, use a serial-to-parallel converter to convert it back into the parallel signal you need. Whether this will actually work is unknown; in theory it sounds like it might work but in actual practice, it may not.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*&#039;&#039;&#039;What kind of wireless range can I expect to get?&#039;&#039;&#039; &lt;br /&gt;
*Even though the XBee radio’s specifications indicate much longer distances, in actual practice, a regular XBee module should provide roughly 50-75’ range while the XBee Pro module can generally work up to 300’ or greater, depending on the kind of antennas used on the units and where the antennas are located (higher is better). Greater distances are possible, but signal reliability is a major issue when the radios are operating at 57,600 baud, the basic speed that is recommended for Renard SS controllers. Note that you should also expect to experience occasional light flickering or even miscued lights that are caused by data dropouts, a common occurrence with high speed wireless serial connections that use streaming data without a hardware or software flow control mechanism. If the SMA version of the XBee Pro module is used with an efficient external antenna, one might experience incredible range. In cursory testing, a 14&amp;quot; external SMA antenna with 6db gain easily provided about 1000&#039; of working distance, but results may vary depending on your situation. However, extreme distances such as miles have not been tested as they seem outside the scope of intended use.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*&#039;&#039;&#039;Will this interact with my home wi-fi network?&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
*Possibly. Wi-fi generally operates in the 2.4ghz radio spectrum, same as the XBee radio. It has been proven that when a wi-fi device is in close proximity to an XBee radio, the XBee&#039;s reception can easily be hampered by the power of the wi-fi device&#039;s transmitter. The symptom is that the Ren-W starts acting randomly or may seem to lock up or be unresponsive. Usually removing the wi-fi device from the immediate area should solve the problem. Xbee radios can use many different Wi-Ri channels, and you may have to experiment with different settings if your experience interference. The Troubleshooting section of the Ren-W Wiki includes a notation on this very issue.&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*&#039;&#039;&#039;I’m concerned about dropped data. How might it affect my light show?&#039;&#039;&#039; &lt;br /&gt;
*In testing, the range of dropped bytes was in the neighborhood of .014 to .044%, equivalent to between 14 - 44 bytes out of every hundred thousand bytes transmitted. A typical song of 2½ minutes’ duration with moderate lighting commands for an SS24 controller might result in about 60K of Renard control data using 50ms timing in Vixen sequencing software. Applying the percentage formula, that could result in 8 to 26 dropped bytes; at one byte per cell, that’s equivalent to 8 to 26 cells over the course of the entire song. It could appear as a light that’s one cell (50ms) late in turning on or off, or if the byte represents a cell that’s in the middle of a long ramp up or down (4 or 5 seconds), one or two very slight flickers. In most cases, viewers probably wouldn’t even notice them.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*&#039;&#039;&#039;Can you make it so no bytes are dropped at all?&#039;&#039;&#039; &lt;br /&gt;
*No, as this would require the use of flow control which, in a fast-paced streaming protocol that is often synchronized to a music track, tends to slow things down and data may eventually become out of sync with the music. The current Renard protocol assumes a direct wired connection, but it includes a space bit which is intended to help solve possible data flow issues and timing. There is no functionality built into the Renard’s PIC code for either software or hardware flow. Something you can try is to change Vixen’s Renard plug-in setting to use 2 stop bits instead of the normal one stop bit and see if that makes a difference for you. Of course, the stronger the radio signal is, the more likely fewer dropped bytes. Consider upgrading to the XBee Pro module if using the standard one, or possibly an SMA version and an external antenna.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*&#039;&#039;&#039;Can I mount the Ren-W inside one of my waterproof broadband-type controller boxes?&#039;&#039;&#039; &lt;br /&gt;
*Yes, but keep the XBee’s antenna away from any transformers, A/C power and any triacs for best performance. Also understand that the more impediments you place between the transmitting and receiving antennas the less workable distance you’ll get. Lastly, if you decide to mount the Ren-W on the inside top cover of your broadband case, consider using the side-entry RJ-45 jacks and a little longer cat5 cable instead of the top-entry version and a shorter cable. This will reduce stress on the cat5 connectors on both the Ren-W and the controller.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*&#039;&#039;&#039;I&#039;m having trouble with channels 57-64 on my Ren64 with the Ren-W. What&#039;s going on?&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
*There is a timing incompatibility between the Ren-W&#039;s XBee module and the Ren64 when both are running at 57,600 baud, 8 data bits, 1 stop bit and no parity. Try using MARK parity and 2 stop bits instead. &#039;&#039;&#039;Update: a suggested combination firmware/hardware solution to this problem is available on the [[Ren-W Troubleshooting]] page.&#039;&#039;&#039;  Additional viable solutions include dropping down to 38,400 baud which completely eliminates the problem. Alternately, you can certainly use the Ren64 as-is without plugging anything into channels 57-64. However, the best (and easy) solutions are found on the troubleshooting page and the change to MARK parity and 2 stop bits is the simplest. Of course, you must set both the Vixen plug-in and the XBee radio to communicate at the same settings.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*&#039;&#039;&#039;Can I modify the design on my own and improve it?&#039;&#039;&#039; &lt;br /&gt;
*Absolutely -- that’s in the truest spirit of DIYC! Remember also that you must then provide your design to other DIYC members without charge so that they may benefit from it, too. As a practical design suggestion, you’ll notice that the solder pads for XBee headers H1-H4 are elongated. The larger pads provide for a better home-etched board because otherwise, the tiny 2mm solder pads may be too small for enough solder to hold the headers to the board. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*&#039;&#039;&#039;Where can I get more information about XBee radios?&#039;&#039;&#039; &lt;br /&gt;
*Contact www.digi.com, makers of the XBee line. Their technical support staff is responsive, knowledgeable and courteous. There are also links to user forums on the digi web site and the discussions there are quite timely and helpful.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Additional Ren-W Links&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Renard Wireless Converter]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W BOM and Construction]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Configuration Concepts]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W XBee Radio Configuration]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Questions/Answers]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Troubleshooting]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Antenna Info]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Controller Heater]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8102 Ren-W Topic on the DIYC Forums]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Ren-W]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:DIYC Index]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Dirknerkle</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=Ren-W_Configuration_Concepts&amp;diff=6924</id>
		<title>Ren-W Configuration Concepts</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=Ren-W_Configuration_Concepts&amp;diff=6924"/>
		<updated>2012-04-24T00:14:04Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Dirknerkle: /* Point-to-point (PTP) broadcast */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;== &#039;&#039;&#039;Ren-W Theory of Operation&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
:1.	A packet of RS-485 serial data arrives at the Ren-W’s J1 RJ45 jack. The source of the RS-485 serial data is unimportant; it may be directly from the computer or from another Renard SS controller. The J1 jack conforms to the Renard SS’ J1 where -485 data is pin 4 and pins 1and 2 are ground (Ren-W does not use pin 5 of J1). &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:2.	J1’s pin 4 connects to the XBee’s DIN (pin3) via a simple zener diode circuit to further protect the XBee’s maximum input voltage of 3.3vdc.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:3.	The XBee module transmits the data stream wirelessly to one or more designated receivers.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:4.	The receiving XBee processes its received data and ports the stream to its DOUT (pin 2), which in turn is connected to the MAX232’s T1IN (pin 11).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:5.	The MAX232 translates the XBee’s stream into an RS-232 serial signal and ports it to its T1OUT (pin 14) which is connected to pin 4 of the Ren-W’s J2 jack (pins 1-2 are ground).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:6.	The Ren-W’s J2 conforms to the Renard SS’ J2 input which receives RS-232 serial data on pin 4.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:7.	The Renard controller processes the command as it normally would, but if the command is for a channel that it does not have, it passes the unused control command on to the next Renard controller via RS-485 pin 5 of its J1 (data out) jack.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:8.	The Renard controllers’ J1 jack is connected to the Ren-W J1 jack via standard cat5 cable in the same fashion as one Renard controller daisy chaining to another.&lt;br /&gt;
:9.	The unused serial data received on pin 4 of this Ren-W’s J1 on this Renard controller restarts the sequence on this Ren-W at step #1, which XBee module is configured to transmit to the next Ren-W in the chain and the process repeats itself until there are no more Ren-Ws to receive data.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:Note: Throughout this document you may notice the similarity of part naming conventions of the Ren-W to the Renard SS controller. This is by design. It’s easier to remember that J1 plugs into J1, J2 into J2, and as you’ll later discover in the section titled “Powering the Ren-W board”, power connector JP3 plugs into JP3. (If using a Ren-C/595 or Ren-C/Grinch system, JP3 connects to one of the Ren-C’s vcc pins.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;PAN ID concepts&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;&#039;Basic Concept:&#039;&#039;&#039; XBee radios have a configuration option called the &amp;quot;PanID.&amp;quot; On an XBee network, this works similarly to a &amp;quot;domain&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;workgroup&amp;quot; name. Only units that have the same PanID can communicate with one another. However, each radio has its own address ID as well. By changing either a radio&#039;s individual address or the PanID, you control which units receive what signal. By creative use of radio addressing, you can create a one-to-many or one-to-one communication scheme.&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;Global broadcast&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:[[File:Ren-w-global.JPG |375px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::Configure all XBee modules with the same PAN ID (or just keep the default 3332). When the first one (e.g. the &amp;quot;master&amp;quot;) transmits the Vixen control signals, all the other XBee modules will receive them simultaneously, and all the Renard SS controllers will respond identically. Example: for a 24-channel system, if SS8 controllers are mixed with SS16s and SS24s, the SS8s will respond to Vixen channels 1-8, the SS16s will respond to Vixen channels 1-16 and the SS24s will respond to Vixen channels 1-24. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::In a global broadcast mode, only one Ren-W board is used as the master transmitter and all the other Ren-W boards are receivers only, so each Ren-W board would require only one XBee module. The design of a global broadcast network looks like the example above.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::A special version of Renard firmware is available that allows using the global broadcast mode while still retaining individual channel selectability with each controller. The feature is called the &#039;&#039;&#039;Renard Start Address&#039;&#039;&#039; and the configuration guide can be found here: [http://www.christmasinshirley.com/wiki/index.php?title=Renard_Start_Address_Configuration_Guide Renard Start Address Configuration Guide].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;Point-to-point (PTP) broadcast&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
Note: Because Start_Address firmware can be used in a Renard Controller, Global Broadcast mode is vastly preferred to PTP mode, and PTP is generally not used. It is explained here, but doing so makes wireless connections quite a bit more complicated.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:[[File:Ren-w-point2point.JPG |375px]]&lt;br /&gt;
::PTP mode enables the &amp;quot;daisy-chain&amp;quot; function that allows multiple Renard SS controllers to have their own ranges of channels which is more in keeping with the way most people use Renard controllers. Two PTP options are available: the standard and alternate methods. To accomplish this, think of the wireless system as a replacement for the cat5 wires: the RJ45 plugs are the individual XBee modules and the cat5 wire is replaced by the wireless radio signal. The first SS controller gets the first group of Vixen channels, the next controller in the chain gets the next group, etc. just as if the controllers had been daisy chained using cat5 cables. To configure the Ren-W network to simulate the cat5 wiring scheme, the first Ren-W board needs to be a transmitter only. It&#039;s PAN ID must be set to the same number as the next Ren-W&#039;s receiver module. (The second Ren-W would have two XBee modules -- one to receive and the other to retransmit the Vixen commands to the next Ren-W board) The second Ren-W board&#039;s XBee transmitter would have a different PAN ID than its receiver, and the third Ren-W board&#039;s receiver would have the same PAN ID as the second Ren-W&#039;s transmitter. This scheme continues until the last Ren-W which would be only a receiver and have only one XBee module.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::In the above standard PTP example, imagine that Ren-W1 is the main transmitter connected to the computer and all the other units are 24-channel Renard SS24, for a total of 96 channels.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::* Ren-W1 (main transmitter) has PAN ID (3332), which matches the W2’s receiver so the two can communicate with one another. Therefore, W2 takes Vixen channels 1-24 and passes 25-96 on to the next Ren-W in the chain.&lt;br /&gt;
::* The W2’s transmitter (PAN ID 4332) communicates with the W3’s receiver. Being the second controller in the chain, the W3 takes Vixen channels 25-48 and passes 49-96 on to the next Ren-W in the chain.&lt;br /&gt;
::* The W3’s transmitter (PAN ID 5332) communicates with the W4’s receiver. Being the third controller in the chain, the W4 takes Vixen channels 49-72 and passes 73-96 on to the next Ren-W in the chain.&lt;br /&gt;
::* The W4’s transmitter (PAN ID 6332) communicates with the W5’s receiver. Being the fourth controller in the chain, the W5 takes Vixen channels 73-96.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:::&#039;&#039;&#039;Summary: the standard PTP method uses matching pairs of PAN IDs to determine which modules connect to one another. Repeater Ren-Ws must each have &#039;&#039;&#039;two&#039;&#039;&#039; XBee modules using the PANID example above.&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;Alternate PTP Configuration&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::While the other three XBee configuration changes remain the same, instead of changing the PAN ID, this configuration option uses the XBee’s internal serial numbers to configure the point-to-point routing.  The manufacturer assigns each XBee module a unique serial number which is expressed as two values: serial number high and serial number low. The alternate PTP configuration assigns the transmitting module’s “Destination Address High” and “Destination Address Low” to the serial number high and serial number low of the intended receiving module. The PAN IDs of all modules on the network must remain identical. In actual practice one can simply set the receiving radio&#039;s &amp;quot;My Address&amp;quot; setting and then set the &amp;quot;destination low&amp;quot; address to the &amp;quot;My Address&amp;quot; setting of the radio it&#039;s supposed to transmit to.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::This method is a bit more cumbersome than the normal PTP method but it results in a more private, secure network design. In a way, the alternate PTP method is similar to a dedicated TCP/IP addressing scheme for a computer network.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::&#039;&#039;&#039;Summary: the alternate PTP method uses XBee serial numbers or &amp;quot;My Address and destination low&amp;quot; to determine which pairs of modules connect to one another while keeping the PAN ID identical across all XBee modules. In addition, only one XBee module is needed per Ren-W board if the board is set as an E-mode repeater.&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;E-mode repeater: &#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
::To use the Ren-W as an E-mode repeater, connect a jumper shunt across JP5 and use only one XBee module in the TX (left) position. You must also also use the alternate PTP configuration method throughout your Ren-W network.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Additional Ren-W Links&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Renard Wireless Converter]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W BOM and Construction]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Configuration Concepts]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W XBee Radio Configuration]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Questions/Answers]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Troubleshooting]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Antenna Info]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Controller Heater]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8102 Ren-W Topic on the DIYC Forums]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Ren-W]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:DIYC Index]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Dirknerkle</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=Ren-W_BOM_and_Construction&amp;diff=6923</id>
		<title>Ren-W BOM and Construction</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=Ren-W_BOM_and_Construction&amp;diff=6923"/>
		<updated>2012-04-24T00:09:19Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Dirknerkle: /* Construction Step-by-step - SMA and Rev-6 Boards */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;== &#039;&#039;&#039;Master Parts List (with Ren-W Part# and Mouser Part#)&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Qty --	Description (Ren-W Part)			&lt;br /&gt;
*1 or 2 -- RJ45 jacks, side or top entry (J1, J2)  Mouser# 571-5520251-4  (side entry)  571-5556416-1 (top entry)&lt;br /&gt;
*6 -- 2-pin vertical PCB headers    (JP1-JP6)	Mouser# 538-22-03-2021  (fewer may be necessary – see note below)&lt;br /&gt;
*5 -- 1 uf capacitors (non-polarized - C1, C2, C4, C5, C6)	Mouser# 810-FK24Y5V1H105Z   (Note: 1 uf 16v electrolytic capacitors may be substituted if you wish; polarity markings are provided on the board as a convenience if you use electrolytics.)&lt;br /&gt;
*1 -- 100uf, 16v electrolytic capacitor (C3)	Mouser# 647-UVR1C101MDD&lt;br /&gt;
*1 -- 3.3v 1w zener diode 		(D1)	Mouser# 583-1N4728A-B&lt;br /&gt;
*1 -- 33 ohm ¼w resistor 		(R1)	Mouser# 291-33-RC	(299-33-RC  1/8 watt is also okay)&lt;br /&gt;
*1 -- 1k ohm ¼w resistor (optional) 	(R2)	Mouser# 291-1K-RC	(299-1K-RC  1/8 watt is also okay)&lt;br /&gt;
*1 -- LED (any color – optional) 	(D2)	Mouser# 604-WP7104GT (green transparent)&lt;br /&gt;
*1 -- 16-pin DIP socket (optional)		Mouser# 571-1-390261-4&lt;br /&gt;
*1 -- 3.3v positive voltage regulator (U1)	Mouser# 595-UA78M33CKCSE3&lt;br /&gt;
*1 -- RS-232 Interface ICs Dual EIA-232 Driver	Mouser# 595-MAX232IN&lt;br /&gt;
*1 -- XBee Wireless RF modules	(Pro version w/1&amp;quot; whip antenna is Mouser# 888-XBP24-AWI-001. The SMA version is #888-XBP24-ASI-001)&lt;br /&gt;
*2 -- Female SL Connectors (optional)		Mouser# 538-16-02-0102&lt;br /&gt;
*1 -- Ren-W circuit board			(etch your own in the true DIYC spirit, or contact [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/member.php?3044-dirknerkle &#039;&#039;&#039;dirknerkle&#039;&#039;&#039;] for pre-made boards)&lt;br /&gt;
*2/4 --	2mm x 10-pin XBee female headers 	(H1-H4)	Mouser# M22-7131042 or also available from SparkFun Electronics as part# PRT-08272	($1 each)&lt;br /&gt;
*1 -- Ren-C users: Snap Choke Core Balun - Radio Shack part# 273-0069&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;SUBSTITUTE PARTS&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
* 3.3v voltage regulator: Texas Instruments part # UA78M33CKCS&lt;br /&gt;
* RS-232 chip: Mouser part #: 595-MAX232N&lt;br /&gt;
* RS-232 chip: Mouser part #: 595-MAX232EIN&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Rev6 board BOM Differences&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
::The Rev6 board needs only one RJ45 jack and only two XBee female headers. Otherwise, parts are the same.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:* Here&#039;s a direct link to the complete Mouser BOM: [http://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=e1460aa043 Ren-W BOM]&lt;br /&gt;
:* Here&#039;s a direct link to the Express PCB source file for the STANDARD board: [http://dirknerkle.clubdata.com/pcb/ren-w-master.pcb Ren-W STD PCB file]&lt;br /&gt;
:* Here&#039;s a direct link to the Express PCB source file for the SMA board: [http://dirknerkle.clubdata.com/pcb/ren-w-master-SMA.pcb Ren-W SMA PCB file]&lt;br /&gt;
:* Here&#039;s a direct link to the Express PCB source file for the Rev6 board: [http://dirknerkle.clubdata.com/pcb/ren-w-rev6.pcb Ren-W Rev6 PCB file]&lt;br /&gt;
:* Here&#039;s a direct link to the schematic for the Ren-W board: [http://dirknerkle.clubdata.com/pcb/ren-w_schematic.jpg Ren-W_Schematic.JPG file]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:* Go to [http://www.expresspcb.com www.expresspcb.com] to download their free PCB software to open the PCB file.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;PCB Parts Layout&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
: The only important difference between the standard board and the SMA board is the orientation of the XBee modules. The standard board has the modules pointing upward; the SMA version has them pointing downward to allow for the long RPSMA antenna connector. Pay careful attention to the orientation of the XBee when plugging it into the board. If you have the standard board, plugging in an XBee module with an SMA connector upside-down will NOT WORK. Likewise, plugging in an XBee with a 1&amp;quot; whip the wrong way on an SMA board won&#039;t work, either. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
: The latest Rev6 version of the board has space for only one XBee module and uses a jumper to make the board be either a transmitter (TX) or receiver (RX). The Rev6 board cannot function as a repeater board as it has only one RJ45 jack, but it is about 30% smaller in size and has fewer parts so it&#039;s slightly less expensive to build.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_parts_location.JPG |600px]] [[File:Renwrev6.jpg |225px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;Construction Step-by-step - SMA and Rev-6 Boards&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_build-1.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
: The &#039;&#039;&#039;basic&#039;&#039;&#039; construction steps are identical for both the SMA and Rev6 versions of the board; the Rev6 board also uses the same part numbers. Obviously, the Rev6 has fewer parts, and where the parts don&#039;t exist, don&#039;t install them! Caution - the pins on the XBee female headers are quite tiny and require very little solder. Too much solder may flow down and fill the pin hole in the header itself and prevent plugging in the XBee later on.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:1.	Solder 2mm female headers at locations H1, H2, H3, H4 or: &lt;br /&gt;
:::	TX only: only H1, H2 are required&lt;br /&gt;
:::	RX only: only H3, H4 are required&lt;br /&gt;
:::	E-mode repeater: only H1, H2 are required.&lt;br /&gt;
:::	Normal repeater mode: all four headers required&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_build2.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:2.	Solder the 16-pin DIP socket into the MAX232 location. Note the position of pin 1; the notch faces to the right. If no socket is to be used, solder the MAX232 directly to the Ren-W board; verify the pin orientation before soldering.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_build3.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:3.	Solder capacitors C1 and C2. You may wish to straighten the leads to fit the holes better such as the example at the bottom of the picture. There are no polarity concerns for non-polarized capacitors. (Note: The polarity markings on the board are for the convenience of users who are using electrolytic capacitors instead of the non-polarized type.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_build4.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:4. Solder non-polarized capacitors C4, C5 and C6. Like C1 and C2, if electrolytic capacitors are used, observe the + polarity markings on the board. (Note: C4, C5 and C6 do a lot to clean up the RS-232 signal the Ren-W provides to the Renard controller, and these are essential if connecting the Ren-W to a Ren-C/595 or Ren-C/Grinch. Early models of the Ren-W did not utilize C4, C5 and C6 but they are highly suggested to make the MAX232 chip run nice and stable.)&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_build5.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:5.	Solder electrolytic capacitor C3. Note the polarity: the + side into the square pad (top) closer to jack J2 which means the stripe on the capacitor faces DOWN.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_build6.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
:6.	Solder 2-pin headers JP1, JP2, JP3, JP4, JP5, JP6. (Note: JP1 and JP2 are optional.) The header pins are a tight fit; be careful as you wiggle them into their respective holes.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_build7.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:7.	Solder RJ45 jacks J1, J2&lt;br /&gt;
:::	TX only: only J1 is required&lt;br /&gt;
:::	RX only: only J2 is required&lt;br /&gt;
:::	Normal repeater and E-mode repeater: both J1 and J2 are required&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_build8.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:8.	Solder zener diode D1. Note the polarity – on the SMA board, the band on the diode must be facing up, next to header JP6. On the Rev6 board the band on the diode must be facing DOWN, next to header H2.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_build9.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:9.	Solder resistors R1 (orange-orange-black) and R2 (brown-black-red). R2 is only required if the optional power LED (D2) is used. No polarity concerns.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_build10.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:10.	Solder the optional power LED at position D2. Note the polarity – the flat side/cathode/shorter lead faces to the mounting hole immediately to the right of D2.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_build11.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:11.	Solder the 3.3v voltage regulator U1. On the SMA board the metal heat sink side faces toward JP2 (top); on the Rev6 board the metal heat sink side faces toward C3 (right). The need for an additional heat sink is highly unlikely as the supply voltage is only 5vdc. At this point, applying power to the SMA board should light the LED (if installed) and the voltage test points in the middle of the board should register the proper voltages. The Rev6 board requires that the XBee radio be in the sockets; the LED will then blink showing the XBee radio is operational. Disconnect power before continuing with the next step.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_complete.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:12.	Install the MAX232 and XBee module(s) in their respective sockets: use the XBee RX side for a receive-only board, the XBee TX side for a transmit-only board. Note the position of pin 1.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:13.	Install optional jumper shunt at JP6 if necessary. This bypasses the R1 resistor (33 ohms) and allows a weaker RS-485 signal through to the XBee radio in transmit mode. Normally, this jumper shunt is not necessary.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:14.    Install optional jumper shunt at JP5 if necessary. This makes the Ren-W into an E-Mode repeater where a single XBee module in the TX position serves as both the receiver and transmitter.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:15.  CAUTION: Never place jumper shunts across JP1 or JP2!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:16.  CAUTION: Never place jumper shunts across either pin of JP3 to either pin of JP4!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:17.  REV-6 board only: install 2-pin jumper headers at the TX and RX locations.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;Powering the Ren-W board&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:::::[[File:Ren-w_jumper-connector.JPG |200px]]   &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::* A nifty solution that retains the SS controller’s ability to use the diagnostic LEDs is to solder each end of a single strand of cat5 wire to an open jumper shunt such as the photo above. Alternately, you may wish to make your own power cable using two female SL connectors; use a small piece of shrink tubing around the connector for insulation safety. (Both pins on the Ren-W’s JP3 header are +5vdc; both JP4 pins are ground connections.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:::::[[File:Ren-w_mount3.JPG |500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::* With WayneJ&#039;s SS line of boards, the Ren-W draws its +5vdc power from the left pin of the board’s JP3 header (photo above); the ground power connection is made when the Ren-W is connected to either of the SS controller&#039;s RJ45 jacks. If you used the open jumper shunts to make your cable, simply plug the shunts into the JP3 headers on both the SS controller and the Ren-W.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:::::[[File:Ren24LV_5vdc.JPG |250px]] &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::* With Frank Kostyun&#039;s Ren24 ver 3.3, +5vdc can be taken at TP2 (test point 2). You may drill a small hole in the pad if you wish to solder-in a single pin header. With the Ren24LV (photo above) the red circles show places where 5vdc can be found: TP2 and the &amp;quot;Power Tie&amp;quot; (both circled in red in the above photo). The power tie includes six places for jumper header pins, the TOP LEFT of which carries +5vdc (red arrow) Remember, ground is made automatically when the cat5 cable is plugged in.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:::::[[File:Ren64_5vdc.JPG |450px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::* With Wjohn&#039;s Ren64 (version XC5) there is a small, unmarked +5vdc test point immediately below pin 8 of U5 (the rightmost ST485BN chip) and just left of R14. Solder-in a single header pin if you like such as the example above (red circle).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:::::[[File:Ren_c.JPG |450px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::* With Wjohn&#039;s Ren-C, +5vdc can be taken from the header pin immediately to the left of the Q1 transistor. The pin is marked VCC. Another +5vd VCC location is the 2nd from the top pin of the 6-pin JP6 programming header. Either location is fine. Both are marked with red arrows in the photo above.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::* With Budude&#039;s Ren48LSD, if you power the LSD board with 12vdc or less you can solder a single header pin into the test point that&#039;s next to the .1uf capacitor that resides between the voltage regulator and the 2200uf capacitor. The Ren-W&#039;s voltage regulator may get a bit warm but the MAX232 chip can handle 12vdc power and you should be okay. However, if you power the LSD board with more than 12vdc, you must tap power from the +5v side of one of the .1uf capacitors connected to pin 1 of any of the PIC16F688 chips. While not as handy as using the test point, it&#039;s a safer and more accurate way to power the Ren-W from the Ren48LSD.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;Connecting the Ren-W to a Renard SS Controller&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
	&lt;br /&gt;
:* Connect JP3 to JP3 on the SS to power the Ren-W (5vdc).&lt;br /&gt;
:* Ren-W as a transmit only node: connect only J1 to J1 on the SS. Leave J2 on the Ren-W unconnected.&lt;br /&gt;
:* Ren-W as a receive only node: connect only J2 to J2 on the SS. Leave J1 on the Ren-W unconnected.&lt;br /&gt;
:* Ren-W as a standard repeater: connect J1 to J1 and J2 to J2 on the SS. (A standard repeater has TWO XBee modules.)&lt;br /&gt;
:* Ren-W as an E-mode repeater: connect J1 to J1 and J2 to J2 on the SS, add a jumper on the Ren-W’s JP5 and make sure the Ren-W has only a single XBee module plugged into the TX (left) position. (An E-Mode repeater has only ONE XBee module.)&lt;br /&gt;
:* On the SS controller, you may find that the board functions better with JP1 not jumpered (RS-485 mode)but JP2 is jumpered. You can always try JP1 jumpered, but it may not be as effective.&lt;br /&gt;
:* If connecting to the RS-IN of a Ren-C, be sure to affix a snap choke core balun on the cat5 cable (Radio Shack part# 273-0069).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:* Rev6 board only: since this board has only one RJ45 jack (J2), it can be plugged into either the J1 or J2 jack on the Renard controller. If using the Rev6 as a receiver, place a jumper shunt on the RX header and connect J2 to the RS INPUT jack of the controller. If using the Rev6 as a transmitter, place a jumper shunt on the TX header and connect the Rev6&#039;s J2 to the RS OUTPUT jack of the controller. Note that the Rev6 board cannot be used as a &amp;quot;repeater&amp;quot; board which both receives and retransmits out. However, it can be used to transmit from a wired Renard controller to another Ren-W. Of course, a Rev6 can also be a main transmitter board at the PC as well. IMPORTANT: Rev-6 works best when JP2 (the termination resistor) on the SS board is open and not shunted.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;What are JP1, JP2 and JP6 used for?&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::JP1 is an optional RS-485 input connection. Because an XBee module can be programmed via serial communications using a simple AT commands from within a terminal program such as Windows Hyperterminal, these headers provide external access to the R1IN (pin 13, JP1) and T1OUT (pin 14, JP2) serial connections of the MAX232 chip, which in turn, communicates with the XBee module. Both data and ground are provided; ground is the right pin and is marked with G. Using the XCTU software and an XBee programmer board is vastly more convenient that manually configuring a module using AT commands but Digi provides ample documentation for AT command line programming. You can also measure the input voltage of the RS-485 signal at JP1; an acceptable range is +3.3 to +4.8 vdc. It is not expected that this voltage will exceed 5vdc. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::JP2 is an optional RS-232 output connection and can also be used to connect Ren-W to other serial devices. The output voltage is inverted and should be -5.0 to -5.5vdc, depending on the original input voltage.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:::::&#039;&#039;&#039;Caution: never place a shunt jumper across JP1 or JP2, or across either pin of JP3 to either pin of JP4.&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::JP6 is used to bypass the 33ohm resistor R1 which helps moderate the RS-485 serial signal’s current. The combination of R1 and zener diode D1 form a voltage/current protection circuit that limits the serial voltage to a maximum of 3.3 volts before it enters the XBee module’s DIN port. However, not all RS-485 serial signals are of the same voltage and if your serial signal is less than +3.3 volts, you may find that the integrity of transmitted data may increase by placing a shunt jumper on JP6 to bypass resistor R1. If the serial signal is +3.8 vdc or greater, you should leave JP6 open. The XBee module includes a modicum of internal protection and in testing, we found that an XBee can accommodate +5vdc at the input DIN for a short period of time (a few seconds), after which the XBee may stop responding and appear to “lock up.” Temporarily removing power to the board usually resets the XBee so that it will function again.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;Other Voltage Test Points&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::Almost in the exact center of the Ren-W board are three test points marked 5vdc, GND and 3vdc (actually 3.3v). While the actual voltages may vary slightly, the tested values should be very close to those figures. Our prototype measured 4.96v and 3.29v.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;Economy Ren-W Construction&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::If you know exactly how many receive-only and/or transmit-only boards you need and want to save some cash, you can economize by not populating the board with parts that will not be used. For example, below are pictures of stripped-down yet fully functional transmit-only (left) and receive-only (right) boards. Note the parts that are missing on each board. These examples also show the standard XBee radio, not the Pro version, which cuts cost even more, although the standard XBee is quite limited in transmission range. (Price comparison: the Standard Xbee is $19, XBee Pro is $32, XBee Pro with SMA connector is $34.):&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:::[[File:Ren-w_tx_only.JPG |350px]]  [[File:Ren-w_rx_only.JPG |350px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::&#039;&#039;&#039;Bottom line:&#039;&#039;&#039; a fully-populated Ren-W board totals about $43.38 for parts with the XBee Pro radio. If you don&#039;t need the extra power of the Pro version and opt for the standard XBee, you could build a transmit-only or receive-only board for about $26. Home-etch the boards yourself and you could have a fully-functional two-station system for about $50, and using the XBee Pro version would cost only $26 more for the pair. So if you&#039;re on the fence about wireless, you can see that it doesn&#039;t have to cost an arm-and-a-leg.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;Mounting a Ren-W and SS24 Controller in a CG2000 Enclosure&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:(click photos to enlarge)&lt;br /&gt;
:[[File:Ren-w_mount1.JPG |250px]] [[File:Ren-w_mount2.JPG |250px]]  [[File:Ren-w_mount4.JPG |250px]]  &lt;br /&gt;
Using side-entry RJ45s on the Ren-W and looping a cat5 cable from the Ren-W to the SS24, stress is minimized on all RJ45 connectors and the case can easily be fully opened. The Ren-W is mounted at the top of the case, to minimize magnetic interference from the SS24&#039;s transformer, and the SS24 is mounted diagonally in the CG2000 case to allow room for the antenna as well as a little additional distance from the triacs, another potential source of interference. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Additional Ren-W Links&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Renard Wireless Converter]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W BOM and Construction]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Configuration Concepts]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W XBee Radio Configuration]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Questions/Answers]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Troubleshooting]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Antenna Info]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Controller Heater]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8102 Ren-W Topic on the DIYC Forums]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Ren-W]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:DIYC Index]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Dirknerkle</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=Ren-W_BOM_and_Construction&amp;diff=6922</id>
		<title>Ren-W BOM and Construction</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=Ren-W_BOM_and_Construction&amp;diff=6922"/>
		<updated>2012-04-24T00:08:36Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Dirknerkle: /* Construction Step-by-step */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;== &#039;&#039;&#039;Master Parts List (with Ren-W Part# and Mouser Part#)&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Qty --	Description (Ren-W Part)			&lt;br /&gt;
*1 or 2 -- RJ45 jacks, side or top entry (J1, J2)  Mouser# 571-5520251-4  (side entry)  571-5556416-1 (top entry)&lt;br /&gt;
*6 -- 2-pin vertical PCB headers    (JP1-JP6)	Mouser# 538-22-03-2021  (fewer may be necessary – see note below)&lt;br /&gt;
*5 -- 1 uf capacitors (non-polarized - C1, C2, C4, C5, C6)	Mouser# 810-FK24Y5V1H105Z   (Note: 1 uf 16v electrolytic capacitors may be substituted if you wish; polarity markings are provided on the board as a convenience if you use electrolytics.)&lt;br /&gt;
*1 -- 100uf, 16v electrolytic capacitor (C3)	Mouser# 647-UVR1C101MDD&lt;br /&gt;
*1 -- 3.3v 1w zener diode 		(D1)	Mouser# 583-1N4728A-B&lt;br /&gt;
*1 -- 33 ohm ¼w resistor 		(R1)	Mouser# 291-33-RC	(299-33-RC  1/8 watt is also okay)&lt;br /&gt;
*1 -- 1k ohm ¼w resistor (optional) 	(R2)	Mouser# 291-1K-RC	(299-1K-RC  1/8 watt is also okay)&lt;br /&gt;
*1 -- LED (any color – optional) 	(D2)	Mouser# 604-WP7104GT (green transparent)&lt;br /&gt;
*1 -- 16-pin DIP socket (optional)		Mouser# 571-1-390261-4&lt;br /&gt;
*1 -- 3.3v positive voltage regulator (U1)	Mouser# 595-UA78M33CKCSE3&lt;br /&gt;
*1 -- RS-232 Interface ICs Dual EIA-232 Driver	Mouser# 595-MAX232IN&lt;br /&gt;
*1 -- XBee Wireless RF modules	(Pro version w/1&amp;quot; whip antenna is Mouser# 888-XBP24-AWI-001. The SMA version is #888-XBP24-ASI-001)&lt;br /&gt;
*2 -- Female SL Connectors (optional)		Mouser# 538-16-02-0102&lt;br /&gt;
*1 -- Ren-W circuit board			(etch your own in the true DIYC spirit, or contact [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/member.php?3044-dirknerkle &#039;&#039;&#039;dirknerkle&#039;&#039;&#039;] for pre-made boards)&lt;br /&gt;
*2/4 --	2mm x 10-pin XBee female headers 	(H1-H4)	Mouser# M22-7131042 or also available from SparkFun Electronics as part# PRT-08272	($1 each)&lt;br /&gt;
*1 -- Ren-C users: Snap Choke Core Balun - Radio Shack part# 273-0069&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;SUBSTITUTE PARTS&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
* 3.3v voltage regulator: Texas Instruments part # UA78M33CKCS&lt;br /&gt;
* RS-232 chip: Mouser part #: 595-MAX232N&lt;br /&gt;
* RS-232 chip: Mouser part #: 595-MAX232EIN&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Rev6 board BOM Differences&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
::The Rev6 board needs only one RJ45 jack and only two XBee female headers. Otherwise, parts are the same.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:* Here&#039;s a direct link to the complete Mouser BOM: [http://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=e1460aa043 Ren-W BOM]&lt;br /&gt;
:* Here&#039;s a direct link to the Express PCB source file for the STANDARD board: [http://dirknerkle.clubdata.com/pcb/ren-w-master.pcb Ren-W STD PCB file]&lt;br /&gt;
:* Here&#039;s a direct link to the Express PCB source file for the SMA board: [http://dirknerkle.clubdata.com/pcb/ren-w-master-SMA.pcb Ren-W SMA PCB file]&lt;br /&gt;
:* Here&#039;s a direct link to the Express PCB source file for the Rev6 board: [http://dirknerkle.clubdata.com/pcb/ren-w-rev6.pcb Ren-W Rev6 PCB file]&lt;br /&gt;
:* Here&#039;s a direct link to the schematic for the Ren-W board: [http://dirknerkle.clubdata.com/pcb/ren-w_schematic.jpg Ren-W_Schematic.JPG file]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:* Go to [http://www.expresspcb.com www.expresspcb.com] to download their free PCB software to open the PCB file.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;PCB Parts Layout&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
: The only important difference between the standard board and the SMA board is the orientation of the XBee modules. The standard board has the modules pointing upward; the SMA version has them pointing downward to allow for the long RPSMA antenna connector. Pay careful attention to the orientation of the XBee when plugging it into the board. If you have the standard board, plugging in an XBee module with an SMA connector upside-down will NOT WORK. Likewise, plugging in an XBee with a 1&amp;quot; whip the wrong way on an SMA board won&#039;t work, either. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
: The latest Rev6 version of the board has space for only one XBee module and uses a jumper to make the board be either a transmitter (TX) or receiver (RX). The Rev6 board cannot function as a repeater board as it has only one RJ45 jack, but it is about 30% smaller in size and has fewer parts so it&#039;s slightly less expensive to build.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_parts_location.JPG |600px]] [[File:Renwrev6.jpg |225px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;Construction Step-by-step - SMA and Rev-6 Boards&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_build-1.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
: The construction steps are identical for both the SMA and Rev6 versions of the board, and the Rev6 board uses the same part numbers. Obviously, the Rev6 has fewer parts, and where the parts don&#039;t exist, don&#039;t install them! Caution - the pins on the XBee female headers are quite tiny and require very little solder. Too much solder may flow down and fill the pin hole in the header itself and prevent plugging in the XBee later on.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:1.	Solder 2mm female headers at locations H1, H2, H3, H4 or: &lt;br /&gt;
:::	TX only: only H1, H2 are required&lt;br /&gt;
:::	RX only: only H3, H4 are required&lt;br /&gt;
:::	E-mode repeater: only H1, H2 are required.&lt;br /&gt;
:::	Normal repeater mode: all four headers required&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_build2.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:2.	Solder the 16-pin DIP socket into the MAX232 location. Note the position of pin 1; the notch faces to the right. If no socket is to be used, solder the MAX232 directly to the Ren-W board; verify the pin orientation before soldering.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_build3.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:3.	Solder capacitors C1 and C2. You may wish to straighten the leads to fit the holes better such as the example at the bottom of the picture. There are no polarity concerns for non-polarized capacitors. (Note: The polarity markings on the board are for the convenience of users who are using electrolytic capacitors instead of the non-polarized type.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_build4.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:4. Solder non-polarized capacitors C4, C5 and C6. Like C1 and C2, if electrolytic capacitors are used, observe the + polarity markings on the board. (Note: C4, C5 and C6 do a lot to clean up the RS-232 signal the Ren-W provides to the Renard controller, and these are essential if connecting the Ren-W to a Ren-C/595 or Ren-C/Grinch. Early models of the Ren-W did not utilize C4, C5 and C6 but they are highly suggested to make the MAX232 chip run nice and stable.)&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_build5.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:5.	Solder electrolytic capacitor C3. Note the polarity: the + side into the square pad (top) closer to jack J2 which means the stripe on the capacitor faces DOWN.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_build6.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
:6.	Solder 2-pin headers JP1, JP2, JP3, JP4, JP5, JP6. (Note: JP1 and JP2 are optional.) The header pins are a tight fit; be careful as you wiggle them into their respective holes.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_build7.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:7.	Solder RJ45 jacks J1, J2&lt;br /&gt;
:::	TX only: only J1 is required&lt;br /&gt;
:::	RX only: only J2 is required&lt;br /&gt;
:::	Normal repeater and E-mode repeater: both J1 and J2 are required&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_build8.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:8.	Solder zener diode D1. Note the polarity – on the SMA board, the band on the diode must be facing up, next to header JP6. On the Rev6 board the band on the diode must be facing DOWN, next to header H2.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_build9.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:9.	Solder resistors R1 (orange-orange-black) and R2 (brown-black-red). R2 is only required if the optional power LED (D2) is used. No polarity concerns.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_build10.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:10.	Solder the optional power LED at position D2. Note the polarity – the flat side/cathode/shorter lead faces to the mounting hole immediately to the right of D2.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_build11.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:11.	Solder the 3.3v voltage regulator U1. On the SMA board the metal heat sink side faces toward JP2 (top); on the Rev6 board the metal heat sink side faces toward C3 (right). The need for an additional heat sink is highly unlikely as the supply voltage is only 5vdc. At this point, applying power to the SMA board should light the LED (if installed) and the voltage test points in the middle of the board should register the proper voltages. The Rev6 board requires that the XBee radio be in the sockets; the LED will then blink showing the XBee radio is operational. Disconnect power before continuing with the next step.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_complete.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:12.	Install the MAX232 and XBee module(s) in their respective sockets: use the XBee RX side for a receive-only board, the XBee TX side for a transmit-only board. Note the position of pin 1.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:13.	Install optional jumper shunt at JP6 if necessary. This bypasses the R1 resistor (33 ohms) and allows a weaker RS-485 signal through to the XBee radio in transmit mode. Normally, this jumper shunt is not necessary.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:14.    Install optional jumper shunt at JP5 if necessary. This makes the Ren-W into an E-Mode repeater where a single XBee module in the TX position serves as both the receiver and transmitter.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:15.  CAUTION: Never place jumper shunts across JP1 or JP2!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:16.  CAUTION: Never place jumper shunts across either pin of JP3 to either pin of JP4!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:17.  REV-6 board only: install 2-pin jumper headers at the TX and RX locations.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;Powering the Ren-W board&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:::::[[File:Ren-w_jumper-connector.JPG |200px]]   &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::* A nifty solution that retains the SS controller’s ability to use the diagnostic LEDs is to solder each end of a single strand of cat5 wire to an open jumper shunt such as the photo above. Alternately, you may wish to make your own power cable using two female SL connectors; use a small piece of shrink tubing around the connector for insulation safety. (Both pins on the Ren-W’s JP3 header are +5vdc; both JP4 pins are ground connections.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:::::[[File:Ren-w_mount3.JPG |500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::* With WayneJ&#039;s SS line of boards, the Ren-W draws its +5vdc power from the left pin of the board’s JP3 header (photo above); the ground power connection is made when the Ren-W is connected to either of the SS controller&#039;s RJ45 jacks. If you used the open jumper shunts to make your cable, simply plug the shunts into the JP3 headers on both the SS controller and the Ren-W.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:::::[[File:Ren24LV_5vdc.JPG |250px]] &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::* With Frank Kostyun&#039;s Ren24 ver 3.3, +5vdc can be taken at TP2 (test point 2). You may drill a small hole in the pad if you wish to solder-in a single pin header. With the Ren24LV (photo above) the red circles show places where 5vdc can be found: TP2 and the &amp;quot;Power Tie&amp;quot; (both circled in red in the above photo). The power tie includes six places for jumper header pins, the TOP LEFT of which carries +5vdc (red arrow) Remember, ground is made automatically when the cat5 cable is plugged in.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:::::[[File:Ren64_5vdc.JPG |450px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::* With Wjohn&#039;s Ren64 (version XC5) there is a small, unmarked +5vdc test point immediately below pin 8 of U5 (the rightmost ST485BN chip) and just left of R14. Solder-in a single header pin if you like such as the example above (red circle).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:::::[[File:Ren_c.JPG |450px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::* With Wjohn&#039;s Ren-C, +5vdc can be taken from the header pin immediately to the left of the Q1 transistor. The pin is marked VCC. Another +5vd VCC location is the 2nd from the top pin of the 6-pin JP6 programming header. Either location is fine. Both are marked with red arrows in the photo above.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::* With Budude&#039;s Ren48LSD, if you power the LSD board with 12vdc or less you can solder a single header pin into the test point that&#039;s next to the .1uf capacitor that resides between the voltage regulator and the 2200uf capacitor. The Ren-W&#039;s voltage regulator may get a bit warm but the MAX232 chip can handle 12vdc power and you should be okay. However, if you power the LSD board with more than 12vdc, you must tap power from the +5v side of one of the .1uf capacitors connected to pin 1 of any of the PIC16F688 chips. While not as handy as using the test point, it&#039;s a safer and more accurate way to power the Ren-W from the Ren48LSD.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;Connecting the Ren-W to a Renard SS Controller&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
	&lt;br /&gt;
:* Connect JP3 to JP3 on the SS to power the Ren-W (5vdc).&lt;br /&gt;
:* Ren-W as a transmit only node: connect only J1 to J1 on the SS. Leave J2 on the Ren-W unconnected.&lt;br /&gt;
:* Ren-W as a receive only node: connect only J2 to J2 on the SS. Leave J1 on the Ren-W unconnected.&lt;br /&gt;
:* Ren-W as a standard repeater: connect J1 to J1 and J2 to J2 on the SS. (A standard repeater has TWO XBee modules.)&lt;br /&gt;
:* Ren-W as an E-mode repeater: connect J1 to J1 and J2 to J2 on the SS, add a jumper on the Ren-W’s JP5 and make sure the Ren-W has only a single XBee module plugged into the TX (left) position. (An E-Mode repeater has only ONE XBee module.)&lt;br /&gt;
:* On the SS controller, you may find that the board functions better with JP1 not jumpered (RS-485 mode)but JP2 is jumpered. You can always try JP1 jumpered, but it may not be as effective.&lt;br /&gt;
:* If connecting to the RS-IN of a Ren-C, be sure to affix a snap choke core balun on the cat5 cable (Radio Shack part# 273-0069).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:* Rev6 board only: since this board has only one RJ45 jack (J2), it can be plugged into either the J1 or J2 jack on the Renard controller. If using the Rev6 as a receiver, place a jumper shunt on the RX header and connect J2 to the RS INPUT jack of the controller. If using the Rev6 as a transmitter, place a jumper shunt on the TX header and connect the Rev6&#039;s J2 to the RS OUTPUT jack of the controller. Note that the Rev6 board cannot be used as a &amp;quot;repeater&amp;quot; board which both receives and retransmits out. However, it can be used to transmit from a wired Renard controller to another Ren-W. Of course, a Rev6 can also be a main transmitter board at the PC as well. IMPORTANT: Rev-6 works best when JP2 (the termination resistor) on the SS board is open and not shunted.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;What are JP1, JP2 and JP6 used for?&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::JP1 is an optional RS-485 input connection. Because an XBee module can be programmed via serial communications using a simple AT commands from within a terminal program such as Windows Hyperterminal, these headers provide external access to the R1IN (pin 13, JP1) and T1OUT (pin 14, JP2) serial connections of the MAX232 chip, which in turn, communicates with the XBee module. Both data and ground are provided; ground is the right pin and is marked with G. Using the XCTU software and an XBee programmer board is vastly more convenient that manually configuring a module using AT commands but Digi provides ample documentation for AT command line programming. You can also measure the input voltage of the RS-485 signal at JP1; an acceptable range is +3.3 to +4.8 vdc. It is not expected that this voltage will exceed 5vdc. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::JP2 is an optional RS-232 output connection and can also be used to connect Ren-W to other serial devices. The output voltage is inverted and should be -5.0 to -5.5vdc, depending on the original input voltage.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:::::&#039;&#039;&#039;Caution: never place a shunt jumper across JP1 or JP2, or across either pin of JP3 to either pin of JP4.&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::JP6 is used to bypass the 33ohm resistor R1 which helps moderate the RS-485 serial signal’s current. The combination of R1 and zener diode D1 form a voltage/current protection circuit that limits the serial voltage to a maximum of 3.3 volts before it enters the XBee module’s DIN port. However, not all RS-485 serial signals are of the same voltage and if your serial signal is less than +3.3 volts, you may find that the integrity of transmitted data may increase by placing a shunt jumper on JP6 to bypass resistor R1. If the serial signal is +3.8 vdc or greater, you should leave JP6 open. The XBee module includes a modicum of internal protection and in testing, we found that an XBee can accommodate +5vdc at the input DIN for a short period of time (a few seconds), after which the XBee may stop responding and appear to “lock up.” Temporarily removing power to the board usually resets the XBee so that it will function again.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;Other Voltage Test Points&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::Almost in the exact center of the Ren-W board are three test points marked 5vdc, GND and 3vdc (actually 3.3v). While the actual voltages may vary slightly, the tested values should be very close to those figures. Our prototype measured 4.96v and 3.29v.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;Economy Ren-W Construction&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::If you know exactly how many receive-only and/or transmit-only boards you need and want to save some cash, you can economize by not populating the board with parts that will not be used. For example, below are pictures of stripped-down yet fully functional transmit-only (left) and receive-only (right) boards. Note the parts that are missing on each board. These examples also show the standard XBee radio, not the Pro version, which cuts cost even more, although the standard XBee is quite limited in transmission range. (Price comparison: the Standard Xbee is $19, XBee Pro is $32, XBee Pro with SMA connector is $34.):&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:::[[File:Ren-w_tx_only.JPG |350px]]  [[File:Ren-w_rx_only.JPG |350px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::&#039;&#039;&#039;Bottom line:&#039;&#039;&#039; a fully-populated Ren-W board totals about $43.38 for parts with the XBee Pro radio. If you don&#039;t need the extra power of the Pro version and opt for the standard XBee, you could build a transmit-only or receive-only board for about $26. Home-etch the boards yourself and you could have a fully-functional two-station system for about $50, and using the XBee Pro version would cost only $26 more for the pair. So if you&#039;re on the fence about wireless, you can see that it doesn&#039;t have to cost an arm-and-a-leg.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;Mounting a Ren-W and SS24 Controller in a CG2000 Enclosure&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:(click photos to enlarge)&lt;br /&gt;
:[[File:Ren-w_mount1.JPG |250px]] [[File:Ren-w_mount2.JPG |250px]]  [[File:Ren-w_mount4.JPG |250px]]  &lt;br /&gt;
Using side-entry RJ45s on the Ren-W and looping a cat5 cable from the Ren-W to the SS24, stress is minimized on all RJ45 connectors and the case can easily be fully opened. The Ren-W is mounted at the top of the case, to minimize magnetic interference from the SS24&#039;s transformer, and the SS24 is mounted diagonally in the CG2000 case to allow room for the antenna as well as a little additional distance from the triacs, another potential source of interference. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Additional Ren-W Links&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Renard Wireless Converter]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W BOM and Construction]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Configuration Concepts]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W XBee Radio Configuration]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Questions/Answers]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Troubleshooting]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Antenna Info]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Controller Heater]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8102 Ren-W Topic on the DIYC Forums]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Ren-W]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:DIYC Index]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Dirknerkle</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=Ren-W_BOM_and_Construction&amp;diff=6921</id>
		<title>Ren-W BOM and Construction</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=Ren-W_BOM_and_Construction&amp;diff=6921"/>
		<updated>2012-04-24T00:08:09Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Dirknerkle: /* Construction Step-by-step */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;== &#039;&#039;&#039;Master Parts List (with Ren-W Part# and Mouser Part#)&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Qty --	Description (Ren-W Part)			&lt;br /&gt;
*1 or 2 -- RJ45 jacks, side or top entry (J1, J2)  Mouser# 571-5520251-4  (side entry)  571-5556416-1 (top entry)&lt;br /&gt;
*6 -- 2-pin vertical PCB headers    (JP1-JP6)	Mouser# 538-22-03-2021  (fewer may be necessary – see note below)&lt;br /&gt;
*5 -- 1 uf capacitors (non-polarized - C1, C2, C4, C5, C6)	Mouser# 810-FK24Y5V1H105Z   (Note: 1 uf 16v electrolytic capacitors may be substituted if you wish; polarity markings are provided on the board as a convenience if you use electrolytics.)&lt;br /&gt;
*1 -- 100uf, 16v electrolytic capacitor (C3)	Mouser# 647-UVR1C101MDD&lt;br /&gt;
*1 -- 3.3v 1w zener diode 		(D1)	Mouser# 583-1N4728A-B&lt;br /&gt;
*1 -- 33 ohm ¼w resistor 		(R1)	Mouser# 291-33-RC	(299-33-RC  1/8 watt is also okay)&lt;br /&gt;
*1 -- 1k ohm ¼w resistor (optional) 	(R2)	Mouser# 291-1K-RC	(299-1K-RC  1/8 watt is also okay)&lt;br /&gt;
*1 -- LED (any color – optional) 	(D2)	Mouser# 604-WP7104GT (green transparent)&lt;br /&gt;
*1 -- 16-pin DIP socket (optional)		Mouser# 571-1-390261-4&lt;br /&gt;
*1 -- 3.3v positive voltage regulator (U1)	Mouser# 595-UA78M33CKCSE3&lt;br /&gt;
*1 -- RS-232 Interface ICs Dual EIA-232 Driver	Mouser# 595-MAX232IN&lt;br /&gt;
*1 -- XBee Wireless RF modules	(Pro version w/1&amp;quot; whip antenna is Mouser# 888-XBP24-AWI-001. The SMA version is #888-XBP24-ASI-001)&lt;br /&gt;
*2 -- Female SL Connectors (optional)		Mouser# 538-16-02-0102&lt;br /&gt;
*1 -- Ren-W circuit board			(etch your own in the true DIYC spirit, or contact [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/member.php?3044-dirknerkle &#039;&#039;&#039;dirknerkle&#039;&#039;&#039;] for pre-made boards)&lt;br /&gt;
*2/4 --	2mm x 10-pin XBee female headers 	(H1-H4)	Mouser# M22-7131042 or also available from SparkFun Electronics as part# PRT-08272	($1 each)&lt;br /&gt;
*1 -- Ren-C users: Snap Choke Core Balun - Radio Shack part# 273-0069&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;SUBSTITUTE PARTS&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
* 3.3v voltage regulator: Texas Instruments part # UA78M33CKCS&lt;br /&gt;
* RS-232 chip: Mouser part #: 595-MAX232N&lt;br /&gt;
* RS-232 chip: Mouser part #: 595-MAX232EIN&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Rev6 board BOM Differences&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
::The Rev6 board needs only one RJ45 jack and only two XBee female headers. Otherwise, parts are the same.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:* Here&#039;s a direct link to the complete Mouser BOM: [http://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=e1460aa043 Ren-W BOM]&lt;br /&gt;
:* Here&#039;s a direct link to the Express PCB source file for the STANDARD board: [http://dirknerkle.clubdata.com/pcb/ren-w-master.pcb Ren-W STD PCB file]&lt;br /&gt;
:* Here&#039;s a direct link to the Express PCB source file for the SMA board: [http://dirknerkle.clubdata.com/pcb/ren-w-master-SMA.pcb Ren-W SMA PCB file]&lt;br /&gt;
:* Here&#039;s a direct link to the Express PCB source file for the Rev6 board: [http://dirknerkle.clubdata.com/pcb/ren-w-rev6.pcb Ren-W Rev6 PCB file]&lt;br /&gt;
:* Here&#039;s a direct link to the schematic for the Ren-W board: [http://dirknerkle.clubdata.com/pcb/ren-w_schematic.jpg Ren-W_Schematic.JPG file]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:* Go to [http://www.expresspcb.com www.expresspcb.com] to download their free PCB software to open the PCB file.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;PCB Parts Layout&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
: The only important difference between the standard board and the SMA board is the orientation of the XBee modules. The standard board has the modules pointing upward; the SMA version has them pointing downward to allow for the long RPSMA antenna connector. Pay careful attention to the orientation of the XBee when plugging it into the board. If you have the standard board, plugging in an XBee module with an SMA connector upside-down will NOT WORK. Likewise, plugging in an XBee with a 1&amp;quot; whip the wrong way on an SMA board won&#039;t work, either. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
: The latest Rev6 version of the board has space for only one XBee module and uses a jumper to make the board be either a transmitter (TX) or receiver (RX). The Rev6 board cannot function as a repeater board as it has only one RJ45 jack, but it is about 30% smaller in size and has fewer parts so it&#039;s slightly less expensive to build.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_parts_location.JPG |600px]] [[File:Renwrev6.jpg |225px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;Construction Step-by-step&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_build-1.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
: The construction steps are identical for both the SMA and Rev6 versions of the board, and the Rev6 board uses the same part numbers. Obviously, the Rev6 has fewer parts, and where the parts don&#039;t exist, don&#039;t install them! Caution - the pins on the XBee female headers are quite tiny and require very little solder. Too much solder may flow down and fill the pin hole in the header itself and prevent plugging in the XBee later on.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:1.	Solder 2mm female headers at locations H1, H2, H3, H4 or: &lt;br /&gt;
:::	TX only: only H1, H2 are required&lt;br /&gt;
:::	RX only: only H3, H4 are required&lt;br /&gt;
:::	E-mode repeater: only H1, H2 are required.&lt;br /&gt;
:::	Normal repeater mode: all four headers required&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_build2.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:2.	Solder the 16-pin DIP socket into the MAX232 location. Note the position of pin 1; the notch faces to the right. If no socket is to be used, solder the MAX232 directly to the Ren-W board; verify the pin orientation before soldering.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_build3.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:3.	Solder capacitors C1 and C2. You may wish to straighten the leads to fit the holes better such as the example at the bottom of the picture. There are no polarity concerns for non-polarized capacitors. (Note: The polarity markings on the board are for the convenience of users who are using electrolytic capacitors instead of the non-polarized type.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_build4.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:4. Solder non-polarized capacitors C4, C5 and C6. Like C1 and C2, if electrolytic capacitors are used, observe the + polarity markings on the board. (Note: C4, C5 and C6 do a lot to clean up the RS-232 signal the Ren-W provides to the Renard controller, and these are essential if connecting the Ren-W to a Ren-C/595 or Ren-C/Grinch. Early models of the Ren-W did not utilize C4, C5 and C6 but they are highly suggested to make the MAX232 chip run nice and stable.)&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_build5.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:5.	Solder electrolytic capacitor C3. Note the polarity: the + side into the square pad (top) closer to jack J2 which means the stripe on the capacitor faces DOWN.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_build6.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
:6.	Solder 2-pin headers JP1, JP2, JP3, JP4, JP5, JP6. (Note: JP1 and JP2 are optional.) The header pins are a tight fit; be careful as you wiggle them into their respective holes.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_build7.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:7.	Solder RJ45 jacks J1, J2&lt;br /&gt;
:::	TX only: only J1 is required&lt;br /&gt;
:::	RX only: only J2 is required&lt;br /&gt;
:::	Normal repeater and E-mode repeater: both J1 and J2 are required&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_build8.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:8.	Solder zener diode D1. Note the polarity – on the SMA board, the band on the diode must be facing up, next to header JP6. On the Rev6 board the band on the diode must be facing DOWN, next to header H2.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_build9.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:9.	Solder resistors R1 (orange-orange-black) and R2 (brown-black-red). R2 is only required if the optional power LED (D2) is used. No polarity concerns.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_build10.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:10.	Solder the optional power LED at position D2. Note the polarity – the flat side/cathode/shorter lead faces to the mounting hole immediately to the right of D2.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_build11.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:11.	Solder the 3.3v voltage regulator U1. On the SMA board the metal heat sink side faces toward JP2 (top); on the Rev6 board the metal heat sink side faces toward C3 (right). The need for an additional heat sink is highly unlikely as the supply voltage is only 5vdc. At this point, applying power to the SMA board should light the LED (if installed) and the voltage test points in the middle of the board should register the proper voltages. The Rev6 board requires that the XBee radio be in the sockets; the LED will then blink showing the XBee radio is operational. Disconnect power before continuing with the next step.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_complete.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:12.	Install the MAX232 and XBee module(s) in their respective sockets: use the XBee RX side for a receive-only board, the XBee TX side for a transmit-only board. Note the position of pin 1.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:13.	Install optional jumper shunt at JP6 if necessary. This bypasses the R1 resistor (33 ohms) and allows a weaker RS-485 signal through to the XBee radio in transmit mode. Normally, this jumper shunt is not necessary.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:14.    Install optional jumper shunt at JP5 if necessary. This makes the Ren-W into an E-Mode repeater where a single XBee module in the TX position serves as both the receiver and transmitter.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:15.  CAUTION: Never place jumper shunts across JP1 or JP2!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:16.  CAUTION: Never place jumper shunts across either pin of JP3 to either pin of JP4!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:17.  REV-6 board only: install 2-pin jumper headers at the TX and RX locations.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;Powering the Ren-W board&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:::::[[File:Ren-w_jumper-connector.JPG |200px]]   &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::* A nifty solution that retains the SS controller’s ability to use the diagnostic LEDs is to solder each end of a single strand of cat5 wire to an open jumper shunt such as the photo above. Alternately, you may wish to make your own power cable using two female SL connectors; use a small piece of shrink tubing around the connector for insulation safety. (Both pins on the Ren-W’s JP3 header are +5vdc; both JP4 pins are ground connections.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:::::[[File:Ren-w_mount3.JPG |500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::* With WayneJ&#039;s SS line of boards, the Ren-W draws its +5vdc power from the left pin of the board’s JP3 header (photo above); the ground power connection is made when the Ren-W is connected to either of the SS controller&#039;s RJ45 jacks. If you used the open jumper shunts to make your cable, simply plug the shunts into the JP3 headers on both the SS controller and the Ren-W.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:::::[[File:Ren24LV_5vdc.JPG |250px]] &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::* With Frank Kostyun&#039;s Ren24 ver 3.3, +5vdc can be taken at TP2 (test point 2). You may drill a small hole in the pad if you wish to solder-in a single pin header. With the Ren24LV (photo above) the red circles show places where 5vdc can be found: TP2 and the &amp;quot;Power Tie&amp;quot; (both circled in red in the above photo). The power tie includes six places for jumper header pins, the TOP LEFT of which carries +5vdc (red arrow) Remember, ground is made automatically when the cat5 cable is plugged in.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:::::[[File:Ren64_5vdc.JPG |450px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::* With Wjohn&#039;s Ren64 (version XC5) there is a small, unmarked +5vdc test point immediately below pin 8 of U5 (the rightmost ST485BN chip) and just left of R14. Solder-in a single header pin if you like such as the example above (red circle).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:::::[[File:Ren_c.JPG |450px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::* With Wjohn&#039;s Ren-C, +5vdc can be taken from the header pin immediately to the left of the Q1 transistor. The pin is marked VCC. Another +5vd VCC location is the 2nd from the top pin of the 6-pin JP6 programming header. Either location is fine. Both are marked with red arrows in the photo above.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::* With Budude&#039;s Ren48LSD, if you power the LSD board with 12vdc or less you can solder a single header pin into the test point that&#039;s next to the .1uf capacitor that resides between the voltage regulator and the 2200uf capacitor. The Ren-W&#039;s voltage regulator may get a bit warm but the MAX232 chip can handle 12vdc power and you should be okay. However, if you power the LSD board with more than 12vdc, you must tap power from the +5v side of one of the .1uf capacitors connected to pin 1 of any of the PIC16F688 chips. While not as handy as using the test point, it&#039;s a safer and more accurate way to power the Ren-W from the Ren48LSD.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;Connecting the Ren-W to a Renard SS Controller&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
	&lt;br /&gt;
:* Connect JP3 to JP3 on the SS to power the Ren-W (5vdc).&lt;br /&gt;
:* Ren-W as a transmit only node: connect only J1 to J1 on the SS. Leave J2 on the Ren-W unconnected.&lt;br /&gt;
:* Ren-W as a receive only node: connect only J2 to J2 on the SS. Leave J1 on the Ren-W unconnected.&lt;br /&gt;
:* Ren-W as a standard repeater: connect J1 to J1 and J2 to J2 on the SS. (A standard repeater has TWO XBee modules.)&lt;br /&gt;
:* Ren-W as an E-mode repeater: connect J1 to J1 and J2 to J2 on the SS, add a jumper on the Ren-W’s JP5 and make sure the Ren-W has only a single XBee module plugged into the TX (left) position. (An E-Mode repeater has only ONE XBee module.)&lt;br /&gt;
:* On the SS controller, you may find that the board functions better with JP1 not jumpered (RS-485 mode)but JP2 is jumpered. You can always try JP1 jumpered, but it may not be as effective.&lt;br /&gt;
:* If connecting to the RS-IN of a Ren-C, be sure to affix a snap choke core balun on the cat5 cable (Radio Shack part# 273-0069).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:* Rev6 board only: since this board has only one RJ45 jack (J2), it can be plugged into either the J1 or J2 jack on the Renard controller. If using the Rev6 as a receiver, place a jumper shunt on the RX header and connect J2 to the RS INPUT jack of the controller. If using the Rev6 as a transmitter, place a jumper shunt on the TX header and connect the Rev6&#039;s J2 to the RS OUTPUT jack of the controller. Note that the Rev6 board cannot be used as a &amp;quot;repeater&amp;quot; board which both receives and retransmits out. However, it can be used to transmit from a wired Renard controller to another Ren-W. Of course, a Rev6 can also be a main transmitter board at the PC as well. IMPORTANT: Rev-6 works best when JP2 (the termination resistor) on the SS board is open and not shunted.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;What are JP1, JP2 and JP6 used for?&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::JP1 is an optional RS-485 input connection. Because an XBee module can be programmed via serial communications using a simple AT commands from within a terminal program such as Windows Hyperterminal, these headers provide external access to the R1IN (pin 13, JP1) and T1OUT (pin 14, JP2) serial connections of the MAX232 chip, which in turn, communicates with the XBee module. Both data and ground are provided; ground is the right pin and is marked with G. Using the XCTU software and an XBee programmer board is vastly more convenient that manually configuring a module using AT commands but Digi provides ample documentation for AT command line programming. You can also measure the input voltage of the RS-485 signal at JP1; an acceptable range is +3.3 to +4.8 vdc. It is not expected that this voltage will exceed 5vdc. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::JP2 is an optional RS-232 output connection and can also be used to connect Ren-W to other serial devices. The output voltage is inverted and should be -5.0 to -5.5vdc, depending on the original input voltage.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:::::&#039;&#039;&#039;Caution: never place a shunt jumper across JP1 or JP2, or across either pin of JP3 to either pin of JP4.&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::JP6 is used to bypass the 33ohm resistor R1 which helps moderate the RS-485 serial signal’s current. The combination of R1 and zener diode D1 form a voltage/current protection circuit that limits the serial voltage to a maximum of 3.3 volts before it enters the XBee module’s DIN port. However, not all RS-485 serial signals are of the same voltage and if your serial signal is less than +3.3 volts, you may find that the integrity of transmitted data may increase by placing a shunt jumper on JP6 to bypass resistor R1. If the serial signal is +3.8 vdc or greater, you should leave JP6 open. The XBee module includes a modicum of internal protection and in testing, we found that an XBee can accommodate +5vdc at the input DIN for a short period of time (a few seconds), after which the XBee may stop responding and appear to “lock up.” Temporarily removing power to the board usually resets the XBee so that it will function again.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;Other Voltage Test Points&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::Almost in the exact center of the Ren-W board are three test points marked 5vdc, GND and 3vdc (actually 3.3v). While the actual voltages may vary slightly, the tested values should be very close to those figures. Our prototype measured 4.96v and 3.29v.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;Economy Ren-W Construction&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::If you know exactly how many receive-only and/or transmit-only boards you need and want to save some cash, you can economize by not populating the board with parts that will not be used. For example, below are pictures of stripped-down yet fully functional transmit-only (left) and receive-only (right) boards. Note the parts that are missing on each board. These examples also show the standard XBee radio, not the Pro version, which cuts cost even more, although the standard XBee is quite limited in transmission range. (Price comparison: the Standard Xbee is $19, XBee Pro is $32, XBee Pro with SMA connector is $34.):&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:::[[File:Ren-w_tx_only.JPG |350px]]  [[File:Ren-w_rx_only.JPG |350px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::&#039;&#039;&#039;Bottom line:&#039;&#039;&#039; a fully-populated Ren-W board totals about $43.38 for parts with the XBee Pro radio. If you don&#039;t need the extra power of the Pro version and opt for the standard XBee, you could build a transmit-only or receive-only board for about $26. Home-etch the boards yourself and you could have a fully-functional two-station system for about $50, and using the XBee Pro version would cost only $26 more for the pair. So if you&#039;re on the fence about wireless, you can see that it doesn&#039;t have to cost an arm-and-a-leg.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;Mounting a Ren-W and SS24 Controller in a CG2000 Enclosure&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:(click photos to enlarge)&lt;br /&gt;
:[[File:Ren-w_mount1.JPG |250px]] [[File:Ren-w_mount2.JPG |250px]]  [[File:Ren-w_mount4.JPG |250px]]  &lt;br /&gt;
Using side-entry RJ45s on the Ren-W and looping a cat5 cable from the Ren-W to the SS24, stress is minimized on all RJ45 connectors and the case can easily be fully opened. The Ren-W is mounted at the top of the case, to minimize magnetic interference from the SS24&#039;s transformer, and the SS24 is mounted diagonally in the CG2000 case to allow room for the antenna as well as a little additional distance from the triacs, another potential source of interference. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Additional Ren-W Links&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Renard Wireless Converter]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W BOM and Construction]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Configuration Concepts]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W XBee Radio Configuration]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Questions/Answers]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Troubleshooting]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Antenna Info]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Controller Heater]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8102 Ren-W Topic on the DIYC Forums]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Ren-W]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:DIYC Index]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Dirknerkle</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=Ren-W_BOM_and_Construction&amp;diff=6920</id>
		<title>Ren-W BOM and Construction</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=Ren-W_BOM_and_Construction&amp;diff=6920"/>
		<updated>2012-04-24T00:05:20Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Dirknerkle: /* Construction Step-by-step */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;== &#039;&#039;&#039;Master Parts List (with Ren-W Part# and Mouser Part#)&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Qty --	Description (Ren-W Part)			&lt;br /&gt;
*1 or 2 -- RJ45 jacks, side or top entry (J1, J2)  Mouser# 571-5520251-4  (side entry)  571-5556416-1 (top entry)&lt;br /&gt;
*6 -- 2-pin vertical PCB headers    (JP1-JP6)	Mouser# 538-22-03-2021  (fewer may be necessary – see note below)&lt;br /&gt;
*5 -- 1 uf capacitors (non-polarized - C1, C2, C4, C5, C6)	Mouser# 810-FK24Y5V1H105Z   (Note: 1 uf 16v electrolytic capacitors may be substituted if you wish; polarity markings are provided on the board as a convenience if you use electrolytics.)&lt;br /&gt;
*1 -- 100uf, 16v electrolytic capacitor (C3)	Mouser# 647-UVR1C101MDD&lt;br /&gt;
*1 -- 3.3v 1w zener diode 		(D1)	Mouser# 583-1N4728A-B&lt;br /&gt;
*1 -- 33 ohm ¼w resistor 		(R1)	Mouser# 291-33-RC	(299-33-RC  1/8 watt is also okay)&lt;br /&gt;
*1 -- 1k ohm ¼w resistor (optional) 	(R2)	Mouser# 291-1K-RC	(299-1K-RC  1/8 watt is also okay)&lt;br /&gt;
*1 -- LED (any color – optional) 	(D2)	Mouser# 604-WP7104GT (green transparent)&lt;br /&gt;
*1 -- 16-pin DIP socket (optional)		Mouser# 571-1-390261-4&lt;br /&gt;
*1 -- 3.3v positive voltage regulator (U1)	Mouser# 595-UA78M33CKCSE3&lt;br /&gt;
*1 -- RS-232 Interface ICs Dual EIA-232 Driver	Mouser# 595-MAX232IN&lt;br /&gt;
*1 -- XBee Wireless RF modules	(Pro version w/1&amp;quot; whip antenna is Mouser# 888-XBP24-AWI-001. The SMA version is #888-XBP24-ASI-001)&lt;br /&gt;
*2 -- Female SL Connectors (optional)		Mouser# 538-16-02-0102&lt;br /&gt;
*1 -- Ren-W circuit board			(etch your own in the true DIYC spirit, or contact [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/member.php?3044-dirknerkle &#039;&#039;&#039;dirknerkle&#039;&#039;&#039;] for pre-made boards)&lt;br /&gt;
*2/4 --	2mm x 10-pin XBee female headers 	(H1-H4)	Mouser# M22-7131042 or also available from SparkFun Electronics as part# PRT-08272	($1 each)&lt;br /&gt;
*1 -- Ren-C users: Snap Choke Core Balun - Radio Shack part# 273-0069&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;SUBSTITUTE PARTS&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
* 3.3v voltage regulator: Texas Instruments part # UA78M33CKCS&lt;br /&gt;
* RS-232 chip: Mouser part #: 595-MAX232N&lt;br /&gt;
* RS-232 chip: Mouser part #: 595-MAX232EIN&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Rev6 board BOM Differences&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
::The Rev6 board needs only one RJ45 jack and only two XBee female headers. Otherwise, parts are the same.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:* Here&#039;s a direct link to the complete Mouser BOM: [http://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=e1460aa043 Ren-W BOM]&lt;br /&gt;
:* Here&#039;s a direct link to the Express PCB source file for the STANDARD board: [http://dirknerkle.clubdata.com/pcb/ren-w-master.pcb Ren-W STD PCB file]&lt;br /&gt;
:* Here&#039;s a direct link to the Express PCB source file for the SMA board: [http://dirknerkle.clubdata.com/pcb/ren-w-master-SMA.pcb Ren-W SMA PCB file]&lt;br /&gt;
:* Here&#039;s a direct link to the Express PCB source file for the Rev6 board: [http://dirknerkle.clubdata.com/pcb/ren-w-rev6.pcb Ren-W Rev6 PCB file]&lt;br /&gt;
:* Here&#039;s a direct link to the schematic for the Ren-W board: [http://dirknerkle.clubdata.com/pcb/ren-w_schematic.jpg Ren-W_Schematic.JPG file]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:* Go to [http://www.expresspcb.com www.expresspcb.com] to download their free PCB software to open the PCB file.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;PCB Parts Layout&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
: The only important difference between the standard board and the SMA board is the orientation of the XBee modules. The standard board has the modules pointing upward; the SMA version has them pointing downward to allow for the long RPSMA antenna connector. Pay careful attention to the orientation of the XBee when plugging it into the board. If you have the standard board, plugging in an XBee module with an SMA connector upside-down will NOT WORK. Likewise, plugging in an XBee with a 1&amp;quot; whip the wrong way on an SMA board won&#039;t work, either. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
: The latest Rev6 version of the board has space for only one XBee module and uses a jumper to make the board be either a transmitter (TX) or receiver (RX). The Rev6 board cannot function as a repeater board as it has only one RJ45 jack, but it is about 30% smaller in size and has fewer parts so it&#039;s slightly less expensive to build.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_parts_location.JPG |600px]] [[File:Renwrev6.jpg |225px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;Construction Step-by-step&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_build-1.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
: The construction steps are identical for both the standard and SMA version of the board, and the Rev6 board uses the same part numbers. Caution - the pins on these headers are quite tiny and require very little solder. Too much solder may flow down and fill the pin hole in the header itself and prevent plugging in the XBee later on.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:1.	Solder 2mm female headers at locations H1, H2, H3, H4 or: &lt;br /&gt;
:::	TX only: only H1, H2 are required&lt;br /&gt;
:::	RX only: only H3, H4 are required&lt;br /&gt;
:::	E-mode repeater: only H1, H2 are required.&lt;br /&gt;
:::	Normal repeater mode: all four headers required&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_build2.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:2.	Solder the 16-pin DIP socket into the MAX232 location. Note the position of pin 1; the notch faces to the right. If no socket is to be used, solder the MAX232 directly to the Ren-W board; verify the pin orientation before soldering.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_build3.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:3.	Solder capacitors C1 and C2. You may wish to straighten the leads to fit the holes better such as the example at the bottom of the picture. There are no polarity concerns for non-polarized capacitors. (Note: The polarity markings on the board are for the convenience of users who are using electrolytic capacitors instead of the non-polarized type.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_build4.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:4. Solder non-polarized capacitors C4, C5 and C6. Like C1 and C2, if electrolytic capacitors are used, observe the + polarity markings on the board. (Note: C4, C5 and C6 do a lot to clean up the RS-232 signal the Ren-W provides to the Renard controller, and these are essential if connecting the Ren-W to a Ren-C/595 or Ren-C/Grinch. Early models of the Ren-W did not utilize C4, C5 and C6 but they are highly suggested to make the MAX232 chip run nice and stable.)&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_build5.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:5.	Solder electrolytic capacitor C3. Note the polarity: the + side into the square pad (top) closer to jack J2 which means the stripe on the capacitor faces DOWN.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_build6.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
:6.	Solder 2-pin headers JP1, JP2, JP3, JP4, JP5, JP6. (Note: JP1 and JP2 are optional.) The header pins are a tight fit; be careful as you wiggle them into their respective holes.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_build7.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:7.	Solder RJ45 jacks J1, J2&lt;br /&gt;
:::	TX only: only J1 is required&lt;br /&gt;
:::	RX only: only J2 is required&lt;br /&gt;
:::	Normal repeater and E-mode repeater: both J1 and J2 are required&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_build8.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:8.	Solder zener diode D1. Note the polarity – on the SMA board, the band on the diode must be facing up, next to header JP6. On the Rev6 board the band on the diode must be facing DOWN, next to header H2.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_build9.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:9.	Solder resistors R1 (orange-orange-black) and R2 (brown-black-red). R2 is only required if the optional power LED (D2) is used. No polarity concerns.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_build10.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:10.	Solder the optional power LED at position D2. Note the polarity – the flat side/cathode/shorter lead faces to the mounting hole immediately to the right of D2.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_build11.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:11.	Solder the 3.3v voltage regulator U1. On the SMA board the metal heat sink side faces toward JP2 (top); on the Rev6 board the metal heat sink side faces toward C3 (right). The need for an additional heat sink is highly unlikely as the supply voltage is only 5vdc. At this point, applying power to the SMA board should light the LED (if installed) and the voltage test points in the middle of the board should register the proper voltages. The Rev6 board requires that the XBee radio be in the sockets; the LED will then blink showing the XBee radio is operational. Disconnect power before continuing with the next step.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::[[File:Ren-w_complete.JPG |400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:12.	Install the MAX232 and XBee module(s) in their respective sockets: use the XBee RX side for a receive-only board, the XBee TX side for a transmit-only board. Note the position of pin 1.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:13.	Install optional jumper shunt at JP6 if necessary. This bypasses the R1 resistor (33 ohms) and allows a weaker RS-485 signal through to the XBee radio in transmit mode. Normally, this jumper shunt is not necessary.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:14.    Install optional jumper shunt at JP5 if necessary. This makes the Ren-W into an E-Mode repeater where a single XBee module in the TX position serves as both the receiver and transmitter.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:15.  CAUTION: Never place jumper shunts across JP1 or JP2!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:16.  CAUTION: Never place jumper shunts across either pin of JP3 to either pin of JP4!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:17.  REV-6 board only: install 2-pin jumper headers at the TX and RX locations.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;Powering the Ren-W board&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:::::[[File:Ren-w_jumper-connector.JPG |200px]]   &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::* A nifty solution that retains the SS controller’s ability to use the diagnostic LEDs is to solder each end of a single strand of cat5 wire to an open jumper shunt such as the photo above. Alternately, you may wish to make your own power cable using two female SL connectors; use a small piece of shrink tubing around the connector for insulation safety. (Both pins on the Ren-W’s JP3 header are +5vdc; both JP4 pins are ground connections.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:::::[[File:Ren-w_mount3.JPG |500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::* With WayneJ&#039;s SS line of boards, the Ren-W draws its +5vdc power from the left pin of the board’s JP3 header (photo above); the ground power connection is made when the Ren-W is connected to either of the SS controller&#039;s RJ45 jacks. If you used the open jumper shunts to make your cable, simply plug the shunts into the JP3 headers on both the SS controller and the Ren-W.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:::::[[File:Ren24LV_5vdc.JPG |250px]] &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::* With Frank Kostyun&#039;s Ren24 ver 3.3, +5vdc can be taken at TP2 (test point 2). You may drill a small hole in the pad if you wish to solder-in a single pin header. With the Ren24LV (photo above) the red circles show places where 5vdc can be found: TP2 and the &amp;quot;Power Tie&amp;quot; (both circled in red in the above photo). The power tie includes six places for jumper header pins, the TOP LEFT of which carries +5vdc (red arrow) Remember, ground is made automatically when the cat5 cable is plugged in.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:::::[[File:Ren64_5vdc.JPG |450px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::* With Wjohn&#039;s Ren64 (version XC5) there is a small, unmarked +5vdc test point immediately below pin 8 of U5 (the rightmost ST485BN chip) and just left of R14. Solder-in a single header pin if you like such as the example above (red circle).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:::::[[File:Ren_c.JPG |450px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::* With Wjohn&#039;s Ren-C, +5vdc can be taken from the header pin immediately to the left of the Q1 transistor. The pin is marked VCC. Another +5vd VCC location is the 2nd from the top pin of the 6-pin JP6 programming header. Either location is fine. Both are marked with red arrows in the photo above.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::* With Budude&#039;s Ren48LSD, if you power the LSD board with 12vdc or less you can solder a single header pin into the test point that&#039;s next to the .1uf capacitor that resides between the voltage regulator and the 2200uf capacitor. The Ren-W&#039;s voltage regulator may get a bit warm but the MAX232 chip can handle 12vdc power and you should be okay. However, if you power the LSD board with more than 12vdc, you must tap power from the +5v side of one of the .1uf capacitors connected to pin 1 of any of the PIC16F688 chips. While not as handy as using the test point, it&#039;s a safer and more accurate way to power the Ren-W from the Ren48LSD.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;Connecting the Ren-W to a Renard SS Controller&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
	&lt;br /&gt;
:* Connect JP3 to JP3 on the SS to power the Ren-W (5vdc).&lt;br /&gt;
:* Ren-W as a transmit only node: connect only J1 to J1 on the SS. Leave J2 on the Ren-W unconnected.&lt;br /&gt;
:* Ren-W as a receive only node: connect only J2 to J2 on the SS. Leave J1 on the Ren-W unconnected.&lt;br /&gt;
:* Ren-W as a standard repeater: connect J1 to J1 and J2 to J2 on the SS. (A standard repeater has TWO XBee modules.)&lt;br /&gt;
:* Ren-W as an E-mode repeater: connect J1 to J1 and J2 to J2 on the SS, add a jumper on the Ren-W’s JP5 and make sure the Ren-W has only a single XBee module plugged into the TX (left) position. (An E-Mode repeater has only ONE XBee module.)&lt;br /&gt;
:* On the SS controller, you may find that the board functions better with JP1 not jumpered (RS-485 mode)but JP2 is jumpered. You can always try JP1 jumpered, but it may not be as effective.&lt;br /&gt;
:* If connecting to the RS-IN of a Ren-C, be sure to affix a snap choke core balun on the cat5 cable (Radio Shack part# 273-0069).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:* Rev6 board only: since this board has only one RJ45 jack (J2), it can be plugged into either the J1 or J2 jack on the Renard controller. If using the Rev6 as a receiver, place a jumper shunt on the RX header and connect J2 to the RS INPUT jack of the controller. If using the Rev6 as a transmitter, place a jumper shunt on the TX header and connect the Rev6&#039;s J2 to the RS OUTPUT jack of the controller. Note that the Rev6 board cannot be used as a &amp;quot;repeater&amp;quot; board which both receives and retransmits out. However, it can be used to transmit from a wired Renard controller to another Ren-W. Of course, a Rev6 can also be a main transmitter board at the PC as well. IMPORTANT: Rev-6 works best when JP2 (the termination resistor) on the SS board is open and not shunted.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;What are JP1, JP2 and JP6 used for?&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::JP1 is an optional RS-485 input connection. Because an XBee module can be programmed via serial communications using a simple AT commands from within a terminal program such as Windows Hyperterminal, these headers provide external access to the R1IN (pin 13, JP1) and T1OUT (pin 14, JP2) serial connections of the MAX232 chip, which in turn, communicates with the XBee module. Both data and ground are provided; ground is the right pin and is marked with G. Using the XCTU software and an XBee programmer board is vastly more convenient that manually configuring a module using AT commands but Digi provides ample documentation for AT command line programming. You can also measure the input voltage of the RS-485 signal at JP1; an acceptable range is +3.3 to +4.8 vdc. It is not expected that this voltage will exceed 5vdc. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::JP2 is an optional RS-232 output connection and can also be used to connect Ren-W to other serial devices. The output voltage is inverted and should be -5.0 to -5.5vdc, depending on the original input voltage.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:::::&#039;&#039;&#039;Caution: never place a shunt jumper across JP1 or JP2, or across either pin of JP3 to either pin of JP4.&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::JP6 is used to bypass the 33ohm resistor R1 which helps moderate the RS-485 serial signal’s current. The combination of R1 and zener diode D1 form a voltage/current protection circuit that limits the serial voltage to a maximum of 3.3 volts before it enters the XBee module’s DIN port. However, not all RS-485 serial signals are of the same voltage and if your serial signal is less than +3.3 volts, you may find that the integrity of transmitted data may increase by placing a shunt jumper on JP6 to bypass resistor R1. If the serial signal is +3.8 vdc or greater, you should leave JP6 open. The XBee module includes a modicum of internal protection and in testing, we found that an XBee can accommodate +5vdc at the input DIN for a short period of time (a few seconds), after which the XBee may stop responding and appear to “lock up.” Temporarily removing power to the board usually resets the XBee so that it will function again.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;Other Voltage Test Points&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::Almost in the exact center of the Ren-W board are three test points marked 5vdc, GND and 3vdc (actually 3.3v). While the actual voltages may vary slightly, the tested values should be very close to those figures. Our prototype measured 4.96v and 3.29v.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;Economy Ren-W Construction&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::If you know exactly how many receive-only and/or transmit-only boards you need and want to save some cash, you can economize by not populating the board with parts that will not be used. For example, below are pictures of stripped-down yet fully functional transmit-only (left) and receive-only (right) boards. Note the parts that are missing on each board. These examples also show the standard XBee radio, not the Pro version, which cuts cost even more, although the standard XBee is quite limited in transmission range. (Price comparison: the Standard Xbee is $19, XBee Pro is $32, XBee Pro with SMA connector is $34.):&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:::[[File:Ren-w_tx_only.JPG |350px]]  [[File:Ren-w_rx_only.JPG |350px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::&#039;&#039;&#039;Bottom line:&#039;&#039;&#039; a fully-populated Ren-W board totals about $43.38 for parts with the XBee Pro radio. If you don&#039;t need the extra power of the Pro version and opt for the standard XBee, you could build a transmit-only or receive-only board for about $26. Home-etch the boards yourself and you could have a fully-functional two-station system for about $50, and using the XBee Pro version would cost only $26 more for the pair. So if you&#039;re on the fence about wireless, you can see that it doesn&#039;t have to cost an arm-and-a-leg.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;Mounting a Ren-W and SS24 Controller in a CG2000 Enclosure&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:(click photos to enlarge)&lt;br /&gt;
:[[File:Ren-w_mount1.JPG |250px]] [[File:Ren-w_mount2.JPG |250px]]  [[File:Ren-w_mount4.JPG |250px]]  &lt;br /&gt;
Using side-entry RJ45s on the Ren-W and looping a cat5 cable from the Ren-W to the SS24, stress is minimized on all RJ45 connectors and the case can easily be fully opened. The Ren-W is mounted at the top of the case, to minimize magnetic interference from the SS24&#039;s transformer, and the SS24 is mounted diagonally in the CG2000 case to allow room for the antenna as well as a little additional distance from the triacs, another potential source of interference. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Additional Ren-W Links&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Renard Wireless Converter]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W BOM and Construction]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Configuration Concepts]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W XBee Radio Configuration]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Questions/Answers]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Troubleshooting]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Antenna Info]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Ren-W Controller Heater]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8102 Ren-W Topic on the DIYC Forums]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Ren-W]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:DIYC Index]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Dirknerkle</name></author>
	</entry>
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