doityourselfchristmas.com - User contributions [en]

Ss24

2017-03-25T03:26:06Z

Jrd: Redirected page to Renard SS24 Controller Board

#REDIRECT [[Renard_SS24_Controller_Board]]

Renw

2017-02-10T21:54:11Z

Jrd: Redirected page to Renard Wireless Converter

#REDIRECT [[Renard_Wireless_Converter]]

Renard

2017-01-26T05:59:21Z

Jrd:

== Overview ==

Renard is the name of a computer-controlled, PIC-based dimmer scheme, and also refers to dimming controllers that people have built based on this scheme. The designs all use mid-range PIC micro-controllers, are generally modular in units of eight channels (dimmable circuits), and use medium-speed, daisy-chainable, one-direction serial communications for input. Renard controllers do not have stand-alone show sequencing capabilities, and rely on a separate computer (usually a PC) to send it real-time sequences of dimmer commands.

This design was originally described in the [http://computerchristmas.com/?link=how_to&HowToId=71 Simple PIC-Based 8-Port Dimmer] 'How-To' on the http://computerchristmas.com website in a generic form. Since then various people have designed and built controllers based on this hardware, and there are likely to be coop buys of one or more of these designs. Renard is strictly a DIY, hobbyist effort at this time, with no commercial products available (either software or hardware).

Here is a picture of an assembled Renard8 pcb (an 8-channel board with an RS485 interface). The two connectors in the lower left are for cables that go to remotely located 4-channel SSR boards, and the two on the upper right are for serial (RS485) input and output.

[[Image:web_100_8269.JPG|right|thumb|160px|[[16_Channel_Renard_with_SSRs | Renard16]] ]]
[[Image:IMG_3021.JPG|right|thumb|160px|[[24_Channel_Renard_with_SSR_Assembly_Instructions | Renard24]] ]]
[[Image:Ren_64.jpg|right|thumb|160px|[[Renard64 | Renard64]] ]]

[[Image:Renard8_img_001.jpg]]

In addition to the Renard8 pictured above, there are several other Renard boards available. These include 16 and 24 channel versions with onboard SSRs, and a 64 channel version without SSRs. In addition, a transformer board exists for providing power and zero-crossing to a Renard, as well as a board to convert an Olsen 595 board to a Renard board. More information can be found on these controllers' respective pages, accessible from the [[Renard Main Page]].
== The Pieces and How They Connect Together ==

Create some drawings.

=== Distance ===

The maximum distance between controllers (or between the PC and the first controller) depends on whether RS232 or RS485 is used as the physical communications method. For RS232 the standards only specify short distances (less than 15 m), but past experiences in other situations suggests that it should work up to several times that distance, especially if low capacitance cable is used. For RS485 it should work out to a distance of more than 300m.

=== Number of Circuits (Channels) per Serial Port ===

The number of Renard channels that can be supported per serial port depends on both the baud rate and on the frequency of updates that has been programmed into the Vixen sequence. The most common PC control software is Vixen, which easily supports multiple serial ports (including USB-RS232 and USB-485 converters).

{| border="1"; cellpadding="10" style="text-align: center; background:black; color:white"
|+ Number of Channels (*)
|colspan="4" align="center" style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| '''Total Renard Channels Capable for a given Baud Rate/Refresh Interval*'''
|-
|rowspan="2" style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''Baud Rate'''
|colspan="3" align="center" style="background:#D3D3D3; color:black"| '''Refresh Interval'''
|-
!width="60" style="background:#D3D3D3; color:black"| 100 ms
!width="60" style="background:#D3D3D3; color:black"| 50 ms
!width="60" style="background:#D3D3D3; color:black"| 25 ms
|-
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''115200'''
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| 1150
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| 574
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| 286
|-
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''57600'''
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| 574
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| 286
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| 142
|-
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''38400'''
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| 382
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| 190
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| 94
|-
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''19200'''
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| 190
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| 94
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| 46
|}
([http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/images/7/72/Renard_channel_limit.png Image for use on the forum])

'''Note*''' - these numbers are based on using the Modified Renard Plugin included in Vixen 2.X as the dimmer codes that require two-byte encoding are avoided.

=== Firmware Versions ===

There are several different versions of the Renard Firmware available.

The first ('regular') version sends out a 30 uS low-going pulse (about 36 uS in areas with 50 Hz AC power), which is intended just to turn on the SSR at the right point in the AC cycle. This pulse is only long enough to activate the SSR, which then stays on by itself until the end of the AC cycle. The advantage of this version is that it draws the least amount of power from the +5V supply. The disadvantage of this version is that the current draw of AC-powered LED lights may be too low during certain parts of the AC power cycle to allow the opto/triac to stay on by itself. The current draw of each SSR output is about 6 mA, or 48 mA for 8 channels. However, the duty cycle of each SSR input is about 1:256, so the average current draw is about .18 mA (much less than the PIC itself).

The next (PWM) version of the firmware sends out a variable width low-going pulse synchronized to the AC power cycle. The pulse starts at the same time as it would in the 'regular' version of the firmware, but lasts until the end of the AC cycle instead of turning off right away. The advantage of this version is that it can be used for dimming direct-drive LEDs (those without any SSRs involved), and will be better at dimming low-current lights with SSRs (including LED lights intended for AC operation). The disadvantage of this version is that it draws a lot more current from the +5V supply in the worst case. The current draw of each SSR output is still 6 mA (or 12 mA if there are status LEDs in parallel with the SSR), for a total of 48 mA (96 mA). The worst case duty cycle is now 100%, so the full 48 mA (or 96 mA) has to be accounted for.

The last (DC) version of the firmware is very similar to the PWM firmware, also sending out a variable-width pulse. However, this pulse is not synchronized to the AC power line, so there is no need to connect a zero-crossing signal to the controller.

=== SSR Selection ===

The Renard Dimmer is designed to turn the SSRs on at different points of each AC powerline cycle (at the beginning for high-brightness, in the middle for medium brightness, and at the end for very low brightness). As a result, the SSRs must be selected for random-phase turn-on. The Renard controllers will not work properly with SSRs designed for zero-crossing turn-on.

=== Driving LED Light Strings ===

Controlling LED light strings requires the use of the special version of the firmware designed for PWM operation (as opposed to the standard version of the firmware, which controls the light intensity by pulse positioning). The reason for this is that LED current at certain voltage (brightness) levels may be too low to latch the optos/triacs in the SSRs. The PWM firmware eliminates this problem by driving the SSRs for the entire 'ON' portion of each AC power line cycle, rather than providing just a narrow pulse at the start of the 'ON' period.

=== Power Requirements ===

The power requirement for the controller varies with the exact application. The PIC itself usually draws around 5mA. Additional current is required for the oscillator (if present), the serial line interface chips, the SSRs and the voltage regulator (if any). It is hard to give guidelines for these parts, because there are many possible choices for all of these parts. It is best to consult the datasheets for the parts that are actually installed.

==== Observed Current Draw ====

The current consumption numbers were obtained by placing a 1 Ω resistor (+/- 5%) in series with the power input pin(s) to the controller, and measuring the voltage across the resistor. The columns with the label 'term' were measurements taken with a 120 Ω termination resistor connected across the RS485 output signals, while 'no term' measurements were taken with the RS485 output connector left open. These numbers should be viewed as representative, not exact. The actual numbers will vary from chip to chip, with temperature, the regulator output voltage, tolerance of the RS485 terminating resistor, and so forth.

{| class="wikitable" border="1"
|-
! PCB
! Non-PWM Current (no term)
! Non-PWM Current (term)
! PWM Current (no term)
! PWM Current (term)
|-
!Renard8
|align="right" |20 mA
|align="right" |39 mA
|align="right" |60 mA
|align="right" |80 mA
|-
!XMUS 16-Channel
|align="right" |45 mA
|align="right" |71 mA
|align="right" |122 mA
|align="right" |149 mA
|-
|}

Note: All measurements taken with the PIC configured to use an external 18.432 MHz oscillator, and with all output channels connected to SSRs (no on/off LED installed on the SSR, however). The outputs of the PIC were configured for maximum dimmer brightness (i.e. worst case situation). The measurements were taken with a DC supply connected to the pins 7,8 on the RJ45 connector, with the zero-crossing signal supplied by other means. In addition, one of the output pins was observed with an oscilloscope to verify correct operation.

== Comparison with Other Schemes ==

LOR
AL
D-LIGHT
DMX-512

== Future Directions ==

== Protocol ==

===Version 1===

==== Character Format ====

Baud Rate can vary, current firmware is programmed for 57600.

1 Start Bit, 8 Data Bits, No Parity bit, 1 Stop bit (8N1)

==== Special Characters ====
<tt>
0x7D - Pad byte, silently discarded by controller firmware, inserted by host PC to prevent Tx overrun
0x7E - Sync byte, start of packet marker.
0x7F - Escape byte, used as prefix for encoding dimmer levels that correspond to the special characters.
</tt>

To send the value 0x7D as data (rather than as a special character), send the two-character sequence '0x7F-0x2F' in its place.

To send the value 0x7E as data (rather than as a special character), send the two-character sequence '0x7F-0x30' in its place.

To send value 0x7F as data, send the two-character sequence '0x7F-0x31' in its place.

The PICs have a rather large internal clock frequency tolerance, which could cause a transmitter overrun in a PIC which has a slow clock. This could happen under the following circumstances:

1) The host PC is transmitting characters with one stop bit, and

2) One (or more) of the PICs is using its internal oscillator (instead of an external crystal) and

3) That oscillator is running at the low end of it's tolerance (1% slow),

The Renard firmware doesn't have any separate provision for transmit buffer other than the internal PIC transmit buffers. If data is arriving at the PIC faster than it can clear the UART transmitter, some data in the PIC transmitter would be over-written, causing data to be lost. The PAD byte is intended to give the transmitter in a slow PIC time to catch up.

==== Packet Format ====
<tt>
Byte 0 - 0x7E (sync byte)
Byte 1 - Command/address byte (usually 0x80, see below)
Byte 2-n - Dimmer values (0-0xFF, values 0x7D, 0x7E and 0x7F have special encoding, all others are sent raw)
</tt>

==== Firmware Operations ====

When the controller receives a character, it first checks to see if it is the sync character (0x7E). If so, this is the start of a packet, and the controller resets its packet receiving state machine. The controller re-transmits the sync byte, so that down-stream controllers can also reset their packet receiving state machines.

The next character is the command/address byte. There are three possible cases for this byte:

1) If this byte is less than 128 (0x80), it is for some protocol that this firmware cannot handle (reserved for future use). The command/address byte is retransmitted, as are all the remaining bytes in the packet.

2) If the byte is exactly 0x80, the next eight bytes (after decoding) are intended for this controller. The command/address byte is retransmitted. The next eight bytes are decoded and used internally without retransmitting. The remaining bytes in the packet are retransmitted for use by the downstream controllers.

3) If the byte is greater than 0x80, the packet is intended for some downstream controller. The command/address byte is decremented and transmitted, and the remaining bytes in the packet are retransmitted.

== Schematic ==
[[Image:Renard_generic_sch.gif]]

This is a generic Renard schematic, not specific to any particular board. It is intended as the starting point for creating a custom design, and many of the elements of this schematic can be modified for individual circumstances.

=== AC Input (J2) ===

This connector is used to bring 110VAC into the board for sensing the AC zero-crossing. The resistors R1 and R2 will need to be changed for operation at other voltages.

High voltage is present on this connector, and great care should taken with this connector and the related components to prevent damage or injury. Do not build this circuit if you are not knowledgeable about working with power-line voltages.

=== Power Connector (J5) ===

This is used to provide power (+5V) to the Renard controller.

=== Serial (RS232) Connectors (J3 and J4) ===

These connectors are used for input data (J3, from either the PC or an upstream Renard controller) and transmitting data to downstream controllers (J4).

=== SSR Connector (J1) ===

This connector is designed to interface with the Simpleio TRIAC8 board. The current firmware versions assume that the SSRs are configured in a current-sink mode. The outputs of the PIC are active low. In the inactive state the outputs are high, and are driven low to activate the SSR. The normal firmware will cause the outputs to driven low for about 30 μS (for 60 Hz operation, slightly longer for 50 Hz operation). This fairly narrow pulse will be latched in both the opto-coupler and the triac in the SSR, extending the cycle until the AC voltage drops back to 0.

In many cases it may be desireable to replace J1 with connectors that are better suited to the particular application.

=== RS232 Voltage Converter (U10, C8 and C9) ===

This is the classic MAX232 circuit used for converting between RS232 voltage levels (+/- 15V) and TTL logic levels (0 to 5V). This circuit may be replaced with RS485 interface chips (such as the SN75176 or SN75179) if operation with RS485 is desired.

== Firmware ==

See the [[Renard Firmware]] page.

[[Category:DIYC Hardware]]
[[Category:Protocols]]
[[Category:Renard]]
[[Category:DIYC Index]]

RenardESP

2016-03-21T17:57:09Z

Jrd: Showing the information from the page this was cloned from just confuses the reader.

[[Image:Renesp.jpg|right|renesp]]

==UNDER CONSTRUCTION ==

==The board to make your RENARD controller run from a wifi connection ==


The RenardESP is a WiFi adapter for Renard Christmas light dimmers.
 
Based off the ESP8266 chipset, this adapter will turn your Renard dimmer into a full fledged e1.31 sACN device. The firmware includes a web server that allows the end user to adjust the various settings.
 
If you need to brush up on e1.31 sACN, you can read the wiki entry here: [http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=E1.31_%28Streaming-ACN%29_Protocol e1.31 sACN]


[[Category:E1.31]]
[[Category:Renard]]
[[Category:DIYC Index]]

Renard PX1 Pixel Controller

2015-10-19T17:24:59Z

Jrd: For some reason this was not in the Renard Category?

[[File:PX1.jpg|400px]]
==General==
The Renard PX1 was designed by [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/member.php?9-P-Short Phil Short] as an inexpensive Pixel controller designed to work with standard Renard systems. It can be daisy chained with other Renard controllers. The PX1 provides a low cost solution that allows a user to add pixels to an existing display setup using just a simple Renard setup.

The design consists of a controller board with a [http://ww1.microchip.com/downloads/en/DeviceDoc/41440C.pdf PIC16F1825]PIC microcotroller that connects via a simple RS485 connection protocol like all Renard controllers. The PX1 Controller is capable of driving up to 200 pixels per controller (with power injection after 50 pixels) or 50 pixels directly. It supports both 12VDC and 5VDC pixels. The PX1 Controller is designed to support pixels that use the WS2811 and WS2801 IC.

The PX1 is available to purchase anytime. Purchase info is available [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?28363-Renard-PX1-Pixel-Controller-is-now-available-(current-12-2-13) HERE]

==Disclaimers==
The standard disclaimers pertaining to the information contained on this wiki page are listed [[Disclaimers | here.]] 
'''THIS BOARD IS STILL IN DEVELOPMENT AND SUBJECT TO CHANGE.''' 
'''THIS WIKI PAGE IS NOT COMPLETE YET.''' 

==Features==
* Standard Renard RJ45 (Cat 5 style) data connections
* Capable of driving either 5VDC or 12VDC pixels
* Supports only WS2801 and WS2811 pixels
* Some Design Details:
# One output connector (uses the same 3.5mm Eurostyle connector and pinout as the E682 controller)
# Supports up to 200 pixels per controller with power injection
# Supports up to 50 pixels from the onboard power connection (depends on wire gauge and length)
# Supports both RS232 (Serial) or RS485 input
# Uses the same RJ45 pinout and protocol as standard Renard controllers
# Supports upto 115200 input baudrate from standard Renard Output Plugin
# Uses PIC16F1825 microprocessor, so it can be programed with traditional PICKIT 2 or PICKIT 3 programmers.
# Supports WS2811 strings at with either 400KHz or 800 KHz data rate (Under Development)
# Uses external 5VDC or 12VDC supply (depends on pixel needs)
# Power, RxD (receiving data), FE (framing error)and Attn LED status indicators
# Jumper to select pixel speed (400 KHz vs 800 KHz)(Under Development)
# Designed to fit inside a [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=TA-200#TA-200_.28Terminal_Access_TA-200_Terminal_Enclosure.29 TA-200 enclosure]

==Maximum Number of Pixels per Controller==
'''The Renard PX1 can support up to a maximum of 200 pixels per controller.''' To achieve more then 200 pixels in a Renard system, multiple Renard PX1 pixel controllers must be used. The total number of pixels that may be supported per serial port depends on both the baud rate and on the frequency of updates that has been programmed into the Vixen sequence. The most common PC control software is Vixen, which easily supports multiple serial ports (including USB-RS232 and USB-485 converters). The maximum number of pixels in a Renard system (per comm port) is directly related to the [[Renard#Number_of_Circuits_.28Channels.29_per_Serial_Port|maximum number of channels]] in a Renard system (per comm port) since each pixel uses 3 channels. The maximum number of pixels is also limited if you are using other controllers in the Renard daisy chain since they use channels and limit the number available for the pixels to use.

{| border="1"; cellpadding="10" style="text-align: center; background:black; color:white"
|+ Number of Channels (*)
|colspan="4" align="center" style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| '''Total Number of Pixels Capable for a given Baud Rate/Refresh Interval* in a Renard Network per Comm Port'''
|-
|rowspan="2" style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''Baud Rate'''
|colspan="3" align="center" style="background:#D3D3D3; color:black"| '''Refresh Interval'''
|-
!width="60" style="background:#D3D3D3; color:black"| 100 ms
!width="60" style="background:#D3D3D3; color:black"| 50 ms
!width="60" style="background:#D3D3D3; color:black"| 25 ms
|-
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''230400*'''
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| 764
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| 382
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| 191
|-
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''115200'''
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| 382
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| 191
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| 95
|-
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''57600'''
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| 191
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| 95
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| 47
|-
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''38400'''
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| 127
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| 63
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| 31
|-
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''19200'''
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| 63
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| 31
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| 15
|}

The Vixen 2.x Plugin for Renard supports baudrates up to 115200. 
*A new Vixen 2.x plugin is required to support higher baudrates. 
*The [[E1.31 Bridge]] from [http://www.diyledexpress.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=22&products_id=157 diyledexpress.com] allows baudrates up to 460,800 with a firmware update.

Typical Pixels require power injection every 50 pixels. '''The Renard PX1 only supports up to 50 Pixels directly powered from the controller. If you use more then 50 Pixels (or if the cable is too long for the wire gauge), you must provide an off-board fused power source to provide [[Power Injection]] downstream.''' 

==Schematic==
[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki//index.php?title=File:Renard-px1_RevE.PNG Renard PX1 schematic]

==PCB Layout==
The current PCB is Rev:E1 
[[File:PX1-Bare Board.jpg|300px]]

==BOM - Bill Of Materials==
To build Renard PX1 Pixel Controller you will need parts from Mouser and a Renard PX1 Pixel Controller PCB. 

===Mouser===
<table border="1">
<tr><td>Part</td><td>Mouser PN</td><td>Description</td><td>Qty</td></tr>
<tr><td>R6</td><td>291-120-RC</td><td>Carbon Film Resistors - Through Hole 120ohms 0.05</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>R5,R7</td><td>299-1K-RC</td><td>Carbon Film Resistors - Through Hole 1Kohms 5%</td><td>2</td></tr>
<tr><td>R1,R2</td><td>299-27K-RC</td><td>Carbon Film Resistors - Through Hole 27Kohms 0.05</td><td>2</td></tr>
<tr><td>R4</td><td>264-330-RC</td><td>Resistor Network, 330 Ohm, Bussed, 6-pin</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>R3,R8</td><td>299-47-RC</td><td>Carbon Film Resistors - Through Hole 47ohms 0.05</td><td>2</td></tr>
<tr><td>C2,C3</td><td>810-FK28X5R1C105K</td><td>Multilayer Ceramic Capacitors MLCC - Leaded 1.0uF 16volts X5R +/-10%</td><td>2</td></tr>
<tr><td>C1</td><td>80-C322C104K5R</td><td>Multilayer Ceramic Capacitors (MLCC) - Leaded 50volts 0.1uF 10% X7R</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>D1</td><td>78-1N5239B</td><td>Diode, Zener 9.1V .5W</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>D2</td><td>78-1N5229B</td><td>Diode, Zener 4.3V .5W</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>D3,D4</td><td>604-WP710A10YT</td><td>LED, 3mm Yellow</td><td>2</td></tr>
<tr><td>D5,D6</td><td>604-WP710A10GT</td><td>LED, 3mm Green</td><td>2</td></tr>
<tr><td>IC1</td><td>595-SN65LBC179PE4</td><td>Buffers & Line Drivers</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>IC2</td><td>579-PIC16F1825-I/P</td><td>Microcontroller</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>IC3</td><td>926-2950CZ-5.0/NOPB</td><td>LDO 5.0/100mA </td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>U1</td><td>571-1-390261-2</td><td>IC & Component Sockets 8P ECONOMY TIN</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>U2</td><td>571-1-390261-3</td><td>IC & Component Sockets 14P ECONOMY TIN</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>J5,J6</td><td>571-5556416-1</td><td>Jack, Modular RJ45 PCB Mount Top Entry</td><td>2</td></tr>
<tr><td>J4</td><td>538-22-03-2021</td><td>Headers & Wire Housings VERT PCB HDR 2P TIN PLATING</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>J3</td><td>649-77313-122-10LF</td><td>Headers & Wire Housings 10P STR DR TMT HDR .76 AU .526IN LENGTH</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>J2</td><td>538-22-03-2061</td><td>Headers & Wire Housings VERT PCB HDR 6P TIN PLATING</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>J1,J7</td><td>538-22-03-2031</td><td>Headers & Wire Housings VERT PCB HDR 3P TIN PLATING</td><td>2</td></tr>
<tr><td>J8</td><td>571-2828372</td><td>Fixed Terminal Blocks 5.08MM PCB MOUNT 2P</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>Jumpers</td><td>151-8000-E</td><td>Headers & Wire Housings MINI JUMPER GF 6.0MM OPEN TYPE BLACK</td><td>4</td></tr>
<tr><td>J9</td><td>538-39501-6004</td><td>Pluggable Terminal Blocks 3.5MM EURO HEADER VE HEADER VERT GRN 4CKT</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>Pixel Connector</td><td>538-39503-2004</td><td>Pluggable Terminal Blocks 3.50MM EURO PLUG VER UG VERT RWE BLK 4CKT</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>Fuse</td><td>504-ATM-5</td><td>Fuses 5A 32Vdc 1kA IR Tan</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>Fuse Holder</td><td>534-3544-2</td><td>Fuse Holder</td><td>1</td></tr>
</table> 

The Mouser Project BOM can be found [http://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=305b838291 here]. On 07/28/14 the price for a single BOM was $17.34 from Mouser. 

Note: If J9 is on backorder, you can substitute 538-39501-1004 
If Pixel Connector is on backorder, you can substitute 538-39500-0004, this is an inline plug like the one used with the E682. 

==Assembly Instructions==
Assembly of the Renard PX1 is done in three steps:
# Assemble PCB and Solder parts
# Configure Jumpers
# Program the PIC microcontroller
===Renard PX1 Pixel Controller Assembly===
'''Click on photos to see a larger view.'''

#□ Begin by inspecting the PCBs to look for any defects such as cracks or breaks. The holes on the board should be open on both sides. Then inspect and sort out the various parts for the boards. [[File:PX1-Bare Board.jpg|150px]]
#□ Install Resistors
##□ R1,R2 - 27K ohm (red, violet, orange, gold) resistor. [[File:PX1-R1R2.jpg|150px]]
##□ R3,R8 - 47 ohm (yellow, violet, black, gold) resistor. [[File:PX1-R3R8.jpg|150px]]
##□ R5,R7 - 1K ohm (brown, black, red, gold) resistor. [[File:PX1-R5R7.jpg|150px]]
##□ R6 - 120 ohm (brown, red, brown, gold) resistor. [[File:PX1-R6.jpg|150px]]
##□ R4 - 330 ohm bussed resistor. Note that this resistor is polarized and only can go in one way. The dot on the package denotes pin1.[[File:PX1-R5-Pin1.jpg|100px]] Pin 1 goes in the square hole on the left side. [[File:PX1-R5.jpg|150px]]
#□ Install Capacitors
##□ C1 - 0.1 uf capacitor. The marking on the capacitor says "104".[[File:PX1-104.jpg|50px]] It is not polarized and it can go either way. [[File:PX1-C1.jpg|150px]]
##□ C2,C3 - 1.0uf capacitor. The marking on the capacitor says "105".[[File:PX1-105.jpg|50px]] It is not polarized and it can go either way. [[File:PX1-C2C3.jpg|150px]]
#□ Install Diodes
##□ D1 - 1N5239B diode. Diodes are polarized and they have to be installed with the correct orientation. The end of the diode with the band goes towards the bottom of the board and in the square hole. [[File:PX1-D1.jpg|150px]]
##□ D2 - 1N5229B diode. Diodes are polarized and they have to be installed with the correct orientation. The end of the diode with the band goes towards the bottom of the board and in the square hole. [[File:PX1-D2.jpg|150px]]
#□ Install IC Sockets
##□ U1 - 8 pin socket. The socket has a notch on one end and the notch must be installed to match the direction on the silkscreen.[[File:Px1-8pin.jpg|50px]] The notch faces right. [[File:PX1-U1.jpg|150px]]
##□ U2 - 14 pin socket. The socket has a notch on one end and the notch must be installed to match the direction on the silkscreen. [[File:PX1-14pin.jpg|50px]] The Notch faces right. [[File:PX1-U2.jpg|150px]]
#□ Install LEDs
##□ D3,D4 - Yellow LED. LEDs are polarized and they have to be installed with the correct orientation. The anode side of the LED with the longer leg goes in the top round hole. [[File:PX1-D3D4.jpg|150px]]
##□ D5,D6 - Green LED. LEDs are polarized and they have to be installed with the correct orientation. The anode side of the LED with the longer leg goes in the top round hole. [[File:PX1-D5D6.jpg|150px]]
#□ Install Headers. '''The short end of the header is soldered into the PCB.'''
##□ J4 - 2 pin header. [[File:PX1-J4.jpg|150px]]
##□ J1, J7 - 3 pin header. [[File:PX1-J1J7.jpg|150px]]
##□ J2 - 6 pin header. [[File:PX1-J2.jpg|150px]]
##□ J3 - 2x5 (10) pin header. [[File:PX1-J3.jpg|150px]]
#□ Install Voltage Regulator
##□ IC3 - LP2950CZ-5.0/NOPB voltage regulator. The voltage regulator is polarized and it has to be installed with the correct orientation. Install in location U3 with the flatside of the regulator facing the top of the board and matching the orientation on the silkscreen. [[File:PX1-IC3.jpg|150px]]
#□ Install Fuse Holder
##□ Fuse holder. [[File:PX1-FUSEHOLDER.jpg|150px]]
#□ Install Connectors
##□ J8 - 2 pin screw terminal. Install so the wire opening faces off the edge of the board. [[File:PX1-J8.jpg|150px]]
##□ J9 - 4 pin euro style header. This connector is polarized. [[File:PX1-EURO.jpg|50px]] The euro style connector is installed with the slotted side to the top. [[File:PX1-J9.jpg|150px]]
#□ Install RJ45 Jacks
##□ J5,J6 - RJ45 Jack. The jacks are polarized and they have to be installed with the correct orientation. Gently install all 8 pins into the holes and them firmly press down on the socket to seat the plastic pins in the holes in the PCB. [[File:PX1-J5J6.jpg|150px]]
#□ Install Fuse
##□ Install 5A fuse. [[File:PX1-FUSE.jpg|150px]]
#□ Install ICs
##□ IC1 - SN65LBC179PE4, RS485 line chip. The IC is polarized and it has to be installed with the correct orientation. [[File:PX1-8PIN1.jpg|50px]] The IC has a notch on one end and the notch must be installed to match the direction on the silkscreen. [[File:PX1-IC1.jpg|150px]]
##□ IC2 - PIC16F1825-I/P PIC microprocessor. The IC is polarized and it has to be installed with the correct orientation. [[File:PX1-14PIN1.jpg|50px]] The IC has a notch on one end and the notch must be installed to match the direction on the silkscreen. [[File:PX1.jpg|150px]]

===Configure Jumpers ===
You must place the appropriate jumpers on the various headers to configure the Renard PX1 Pixel Controller. 

====J1- DMX Termination Resistor / RS232 Input====
[[File:PX1-J1CLOSEUP.jpg|50 px]] 
Install a shunt (jumper) across Pin 1 and Pin2 if you are using RS232 Input to the controller. Install a jumper across Pins 2 and Pin 3 if you are using regular RS485 input. 

====J3- 2x5 Options Connector====
This connector is used to set various special options. The default is no jumpers used on this header. 
If and only if you are using WS2801 pixels and have issues with stray flashing on older pixels, you can put a single jumper on the two most left pins of the header (up and down) and restart the PX1. This option uses a slightly different timing that will only work with WS2801 pixels. Generally most WS2801 pixels will not need this jumper. 

====J4- Inline Settings Programming====
Do not install any jumper here until instructed to do so. This jumper is only used to change the settings in a PX1 by using a specially formatted vixen or other control software data stream. See [[Renard_PX1_Pixel_Controller#Configuring_the_Settings_via_a_Renard_Data_Stream|Configuring the Settings via a Renard Data Stream]] 

====J7- Voltage Selector====
[[File:PX1-J7CLOSEUP.jpg|50 px]] 
This 3 pin jumper is used to select the power source of the control circuit on the board. This jumper must be set to match the voltage requirements of your pixels. If the power input to the board is 12VDC, then jumper must be placed on the two left pins. If the power input to the board is 5VDC, then the jumper must be placed on the right two pins.

'''IT IS CRITICAL THAT YOU CONNECT THE CORRECT VOLTAGE TO THE UNIT AND HAVE THE CORRECT VOLTAGE INPUT SETTINGS! YOU MAY DAMAGE THE CONTROLLER AND PIXELS IF YOU CONNECT THE WRONG VOLTAGE OR HAVE THE WRONG VOLTAGE SETTINGS ON J7!''' 

===Program PIC ===
You must configure the firmware to match your system settings and then build the firmware (create a .hex file) as outlined [[Renard_PX1_Pixel_Controller#Firmware|below]].

The PX1 Pixel Controller has a built in [[Renard_PX1_Pixel_Controller#J2-ICSP_Programming_Header|ICSP programming header]] that you can connect directly to a PICKIT 2 or PICKIT3 programmer and program the firmware into the PIC without removing the PIC from the PCB. [[media: ICSPpin1.JPG | Pin 1 of the ICSP header]] is on the right side of the 6 pin header. After building the .hex file in MPLAB you must then download the firmware into the PIC using either the PICKIT 2 or MPLAB IDE software. Remove the external power from the PX1 and use the power from the Pickit2 to program the PIC. '''Disconnect the Pixels from the controller while you are programming the PIC.''' Once you have successfully download the firmware into the PIC the controller is ready to be tested.

*Do not install any shunt in J4 while programming the PIC.

====J2-ICSP Programming Header====
J2 is the 6 pin header located in the top center of the board that allows '''I'''n '''C'''ircuit '''S'''erial '''P'''rogramming. J2 allows the PIC microprocessor to be programmed in place on the board by directly connecting a [http://www.microchip.com/stellent/idcplg?IdcService=SS_GET_PAGE&nodeId=1406&dDocName=en023805 PICKIT2] or [http://www.microchip.com/stellent/idcplg?IdcService=SS_GET_PAGE&nodeId=1406&dDocName=en538340 PICKIT3] programer. It eliminates the need to remove the PIC from the PCB to program or modify the programming in the PIC. 
'''Pin 1 is the square hole towards the right side of the board closest to the mounting hole. '''
{| border="1"; cellpadding="10" style="text-align: center; background:black; color:white"
|colspan="3" align="center" style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| '''J2 ICSP Pin Assignments'''
|-
|rowspan="2" style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''Pin #
|-
!width="60" style="background:#D3D3D3; color:black"| Signal
|-
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''1'''
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| VPP/MCLR
|-
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''2'''
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| VDD Target
|-
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''3'''
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| VSS (Ground)
|-
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''4'''
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| ICSPDAT/PGD
|-
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''5'''
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| ICSPCLK/PGC
|-
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''6'''
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| N/C

|}

'''Congratulations, you have finished constructing your Renard PX1 Pixel Controller.''' 

== Connections==
After you have finished building the PX1 Pixel controller you need to make the appropriate connections to power the board, connect the pixels and supply data to and from the Renard network that you are connecting the controller to. The connectors on the PCB are as follows:

===J5 and J6-Renard Input and Output===
The two RJ45 Connectors J5&J6 near the bottom left of the board are used to bring data signals to and from the board. '''J5 on the left side is the signal input from the PC or previous Renard controller'''. J6 on the right side is the output to be daisy-chained to the next Renard controller. These connections are the standard Renard daisy chain configurations. The pins on these connectors are used as follows: 
{| border="1"; cellpadding="10" style="text-align: center; background:black; color:white"
|+ RJ45 Pin Assignments
|colspan="3" align="center" style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| '''Serial Data Connector Pin Assignments'''
|-
|rowspan="2" style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''Pin #'''
|colspan="2" align="center" style="background:#D3D3D3; color:black"| '''RJ45 Connector'''
|-
!width="60" style="background:#D3D3D3; color:black"| J5 Input
!width="60" style="background:#D3D3D3; color:black"| J6 Output
|-
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''1,2'''
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| GND
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| GND
|-
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''3'''
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| NC
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| NC
|-
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''4'''
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| Data- (Rx)
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| Data- (Tx)
|-
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''5'''
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| Data+ (Rx)
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| Data+ (Tx)
|-
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''6,7,8'''
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| NC
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| NC

|}

===J8-Pixel Power Input===
J8 is the 2 pin terminal block located at the bottom center of the PCB. The Renard PX1 can be powered by either 5 or 12VDC (depending on pixel type). If you are using 5VDC, you can omit the voltage regulator and set Jumper J7 to the two right pins (5v position).If you are using 12VDC, then you must use the on board voltage regulator and set Jumper J7 to the two left pins (12v position). '''IT IS CRITICAL THAT YOU CONNECT THE CORRECT VOLTAGE TO THE UNIT AND HAVE THE CORRECT VOLTAGE INPUT SETTINGS! YOU MAY DAMAGE THE CONTROLLER AND PIXELS IF YOU CONNECT THE WRONG VOLTAGE OR HAVE THE WRONG VOLTAGE SETTINGS ON J7!''' 

{| border="1"; cellpadding="10" style="text-align: center; background:black; color:white"
|colspan="3" align="center" style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| '''J8 Power Input'''
|-
|rowspan="2" style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''Pin #
|-
!width="60" style="background:#D3D3D3; color:black"| Voltage
|-
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''1 (square pad on left)'''
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| GND (V-)
|-
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''2 (round pad on right)'''
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| V+
|}

===J9 - Output to Pixels===
[[File:PX1-EURO.jpg|50px]]
J9 is located along the bottom right side of the board and is a 4 pin Euro style plugable connector used to connect to the Pixels. '''Pin 1 of the connector is on the left side and is marked by the square hole on the silkscreen.''' You must wire the plug onto your pixel string according to the correct wire color code for your pixels. Please check with your vendor to confirm the color code of the various wires and how to determine the input end of your pixel string. Some examples of the various wiring color codes can be found [[Pixel_Wiring_Colors|here]]. Another common choice is to wire a waterproof connector to the euro plug and use [[Pixel_Connectors|waterproof connections]] to their pixels. Note that WS2811 pixels only have 3 wires( V+, Data, GND) and they do not require a Clock wire. 

{| border="1"; cellpadding="10" style="text-align: center; background:black; color:white"
|colspan="3" align="center" style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| '''J9 Pixel Output Pin Assignments'''
|-
|rowspan="2" style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''Pin #
|-
!width="60" style="background:#D3D3D3; color:black"| Signal
|-
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''1'''
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| GND (V-)
|-
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''2'''
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| Clock (C)
|-
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''3'''
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| Data (D)
|-
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''4'''
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| V+
|}

==Indicator LEDs==
===Attn===
'''ON''' (flashing) when J4 jumper for [[Renard_PX1_Pixel_Controller#Configuring_the_Settings_via_a_Renard_Data_Stream|Renard Data Stream Configuration]] is in place.

===Rx===
This LED flashes as it is receiving data from the input connector. 
===FE===
This LED flashes if there is a framing error in the incoming data stream. This is likely due to the PIC or the PC output signal using different baud rates. 
===Pwr===
This LED lights if there is power supplied to the board. 

==Firmware==

The firmware for the Renard PX1 Pixel Controller needs to be optimized and configured for your specific use. There are several parameters that can be set in the firmware including:
* Baud Rate: Allows you to set the controller to match the speed of your existing Renard network. The default is 115200.
* Number of Pixel Groups: Allows you to set the specific number of pixels to be attached to controller (1-200)
* Renard Start Address: This uses the standard Renard protocol of defaulting to Channel 1, but can be set to higher channels in multiples of 8.
* RGB Order: Allows to make corrections for strings where the pixels respond in a different color order
* Grouping: Allows you to treat multiple pixel as one pixel, cutting down on the number of channels used.

These configuration parameters can be changed in the assembly file (see below), which causes these values to be stored in the EEPROM on the PIC. These parameters can be changed later on by installing a shunt in J4 and sending a specially crafted sequence from Vixen or other similar software.

The firmware is available in an assembly file (.asm) file that needs to be compiled and built with Microchip's free [http://www.microchip.com/Microchip.WWW.SecureSoftwareList/secsoftwaredownload.aspx?device=en019469&lang=en&ReturnURL=http://www.microchip.com/stellent/idcplg?IdcService=SS_GET_PAGE&nodeId=1406&dDocName=en019469# MPLAB IDE software] or [http://www.microchip.com/stellent/idcplg?IdcService=SS_GET_PAGE&nodeId=1406&dDocName=en019469 MPLAB X IDE].

If you have never compiled firmware before, there is an excellent series of tutorials available [[Beginners_Guide_To_Programming_A_PIC|here]].

Older versions of MPLAB IDE may not support the 16F1825 PIC and you my need to update the MPLAB IDE to a later version. You may also have to update the PICKIT2 software to support the 16F1825. [http://ww1.microchip.com/downloads/en/DeviceDoc/PICkit%202%20v2.61.00%20Setup%20A.zip Version 2.61] supports the 16F1825 PIC and allows you to program the firmware into the PIC. While you are updating the PICKIT 2 software, you might want to also download the latest device file [http://ww1.microchip.com/downloads/en/DeviceDoc/PK2DFUpdate-1-62-14.zip Version 1.62.14] and replace the file in the PICKIT 2 program directory with this file.

'''For a step by step guide to program the pic for a PX1 using the Pickit [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?32618-Programming-the-16F1825-in-the-PX-1&p=326092#post326092 Click here].

'''One note: When compiling the firmware you must choose Relocatable code as the compile option.'''

'''The firmware file can be found [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/dynamics/showentry.php?e=222&catid=6 here].

===Configuring the Settings via the Firmware===
Before you build the code using MPLAB, you can set the variables associated with the controller and how you plan to use it in the .asm file. By adjusting the parameters and then building the code with those parameters, you result in a .hex file specific for your project. The parameters that can be set are:
* <ul>'''Baud Rate:'''</ul> Allows you to set the controller to match the speed of your existing Renard network. The default is 115200.
**Find the line in the code that says "''' #define BAUDRATE_INDEX_DEFAULT BAUDRATE_115200'''" and adjust the baudrate to one of the following values:
***19200, 38400, 57600, 76800, 115200, 230400, 460800
* <ul>''' Number of Pixel Groups:'''</ul> Allows you to set the specific number of pixels to be attached to controller. The default is 50
**Find the line in the code the says "''' #DEFINE GROUP_COUNT 50'''" and adjust it from 1 -200
* <ul>'''Renard Start Address:'''</ul> This uses the standard Renard protocol of defaulting to Channel 1, but can be set to higher channels in multiples of 8.
**Find the line in the code that says "'''#define Renard_START_ADDRESS 1'''" and set it your start channel.
* <ul>'''RGB Order:'''</ul> Allows to make corrections for strings where the pixels respond in a different color order. The default is RGB. '''UNDER DEVELOPMENT'''
**Find the line in the code that says "'''#DEFINE DEFAULT_RGB_ORDER_CODE RGB'''" and set it to one of the following values:
***RGB, RBG, GRB, GBR, BRG, BGR
* <ul>'''Grouping:'''</ul> Allows you to treat multiple pixel as one pixel, cutting down on the number of channels used. '''UNDER DEVELOPMENT'''
**Find the line in the code that says "''' #DEFINE GROUP_SIZE 1'''" and change it you the number of pixels you want in a group. The default is 1.

===Configuring the Settings via a Renard Data Stream===
The PX1 can be configured inline by using a specially formatted Renard Data stream. The basic process using Vixen is as follows:
#Choose your start address
#Create a vixen sequence with 6 channels and make it just 1 time period long
#Then you need to enter the start address into the two channels by using the intensity value feature of vixen set the values from 0-255 (Not 0-100%)
##Enter into Channel 1 the Start Address MSB as found in the table below.
##Enter into Channel 2 the Start Address LSB as found in the table below.
##Example:
###If start address = 1
####Channel 1 = 0
####Channel 2 = 1
###If start address = 45
####Channel 1 = “0”
####Channel 2 = “45”
###If start address = 257
####Channel 1 = 1
####Channel 2 = 1
## Enter into Channel 3 the Baudrate code as found in the table below.
## Enter into Channel 4 the Group Size, the number of pixels you want to cluster into a group.
## Enter into Channel 5 the Group Count, the number of pixels directly connected to the controller from 1-200.
## Enter into channel 6 the rgb_order_code as found in the table below.
#Power off the PX1, install the jumper J4 on the PX1 ''then'' power ON the PX1 (the ATTN LED should be blinking) and set up Vixen to send out the Renard data packets with the new address or configuration change.
#Run the sequence. When the controller has accepted the new address and stored in the EEPROM, the ATTN, RX and FE LEDs will come on and stay on solid.
#Power off the PX1 and remove the jumper J4 ''then'' power ON the PX1. The changes are now in effect.
'''NOTE: You must have a value in each channel even if you do not wish it to change'''
 Example - If you only want to change the RGB order, you must set the default values in the other packet channels.
====PX1 Programming Packet Format====
{| border="1"; cellpadding="10" style="text-align: center; background:black; color:white"
|colspan="3" align="center" style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| '''Inline PX1 Programming Settings'''
|-
|rowspan="2" style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''Packet (Channel)'''
|-
!width="150" style="background:#D3D3D3; color:black"| '''Value'''
!width="50" style="background:#D3D3D3; color:black"| '''Default'''
|-
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''1'''
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| Start Address (MSB)
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| 0
|-
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''2'''
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| Start Address (LSB)
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| 1
|-
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''3'''
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| Baudrate Code
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| 4
|-
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''4'''
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| Group Size
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| 1
|-
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''5'''
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| Group Count
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| 50
|-
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''6'''
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| RGB Order Code
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| 0
|}

====Start Address Packet Format====
{| border="1"; cellpadding="10" style="text-align: center; background:black; color:white"
|+ Number of Channels (*)
|colspan="7" align="center" style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| '''Inline PX1 Programming Settings'''
|-
!width="60" style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''Start Address'''
!width="60" style="background:#D3D3D3; color:black"| Packet 1 MSB (Channel 1)
!width="120" style="background:#D3D3D3; color:black"| Packet 2 LSB (Channel 2)
|-
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''1-255'''
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| 0
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| Actual Start Address
|-
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''256-511 '''
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| 1
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| Start Address - 256
|-
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''512-767'''
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| 2
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| Start Address - 512
|-
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''768- 1023'''
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| 3
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| Start Address - 768
|-
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''1024-1279'''
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| 4
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| Start Address - 1024
|}

====Baud Rate Packet Format====
{| border="1"; cellpadding="10" style="text-align: center; background:black; color:white"
|colspan="3" align="center" style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| '''Inline PX1 Programming Settings'''
|-
|rowspan="2" style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''Baud Rate'''
|-
!width="200" style="background:#D3D3D3; color:black"| '''Baud Rate Code Packet 3 (Channel 3)'''
|-
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''19200'''
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| 0
|-
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''38400'''
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| 1
|-
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''57600'''
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| 2
|-
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''76800'''
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| 3
|-
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''115200'''
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| 4 (Default)
|-
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''230400'''
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| 5
|-
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''460800'''
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| 6
|}

====Color Packet Format====
{| border="1"; cellpadding="10" style="text-align: center; background:black; color:white"
|colspan="3" align="center" style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| '''Inline PX1 Programming Settings'''
|-
|rowspan="2" style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''Color Order'''
|-
!width="200" style="background:#D3D3D3; color:black"| '''RGB Code Packet 6 (Channel 6)'''
|-
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''RGB'''
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| 0 (Default)
|-
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''RBG'''
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| 1
|-
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''GRB'''
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| 2
|-
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''GBR'''
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| 3
|-
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''BRG'''
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| 4
|-
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''BGR'''
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| 5
|}
.

.

.

===Configuring the Settings via the PX1 Setup Application===

DIYC member "bolwire" created a small application which assists in setting up a PX1 pixel controller. This takes the place of using a vixen sequence to configure the PX1, as outlined above.

The information entered into the app, should be as directed above. The only difference is that you do not need to enter the MSB bit, this is determined by the application.

After entering your setup details, simply connect your PX1 and click *Write Data*, you will get a confirmation if the data was sent successfully, but as before, the LEDs on the PX1 should behave as according to the wiki as and indication as to the data being accepted and saved.

[[File:RenPX1_Setup.jpg]]

'''Download the application [http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/images/6/6f/RenPX1Setup.zip here]'''

The initial thread is [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?32557-Ren-PX1-Setup-application here].

==Enclosure==
The Renard PX1 pixel controller can be mounted in the users choice of enclosures. One common choice is the [[Enclosure#TA-200_.28Terminal_Access_TA-200_Terminal_Enclosure.29|TA-200]] enclosure. 
[[File:TA-200.png| 100px|TA-200]] 
The PX1 has three screw holes that line up perfectly with the plastic standoffs in the inside of the TA-200 enclosure.[[File:PX1-TA200.JPG|200px|PX1 in TA-200]] 

=Other Information=
==Renard PX1 Pixel Controller Discussion Threads==
[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?26133-Renard-Pixel-String-Controller Initial Thread] 
[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?26909-Renard-PX1-BETA-Test Beta Test Thread] 
[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?27194-Renard-PX1-Pixel-String-Controller-quot-INTEREST-quot Group Buy Interest Thread] 

==Video==
TBD 

==FAQ==
*Question: I have never used pixels before,how can I learn more about where to begin and how to use pixels and the Renard PX1 Pixel Controller?
**Answer: Read [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=19639&d=1372636708 The Pixel Newbie] for step by step information about setting up your first pixels. 

==Related Links==

[[Different Styles of Pixels]] 
[[Controllers]] 
[[Dumb RGB or Intelligent Pixels??]] 
[[Things You Will Need To Get Started With Pixels]] 
[[Pixel Wiring Colors]] 
[[Power Supplies]] 
[[Pixel Connectors]] 
[[Power Injection]] 
[[Waterproofing Pixels]]

[[Category:RGB]]
[[Category:Renard]]
[[Category:DIYC Index]]
[[Category:Pixel]]

Px1

2015-03-10T23:57:10Z

Jrd: Redirected page to Renard PX1 Pixel Controller

#REDIRECT [[Renard PX1 Pixel Controller]]

Renard Px-1

2015-03-10T23:56:32Z

Jrd: Redirected page to Renard PX1 Pixel Controller

#REDIRECT [[Renard PX1 Pixel Controller]]

Px-1

2015-03-10T23:56:08Z

Jrd: Redirected page to Renard PX1 Pixel Controller

#REDIRECT [[Renard PX1 Pixel Controller]]

PX-1

2015-03-10T23:55:34Z

Jrd: Redirected page to Renard PX1 Pixel Controller

#REDIRECT [[Renard PX1 Pixel Controller]]

Controllers

2014-12-24T05:05:23Z

Jrd: Seems like there was a Max pixels error.

=Intro=
There are many different types of controllers used for RGB lighting effects. The most common fall into two different categories:
*Pixel Controllers
*Dumb RGB Controllers. 

The different controllers also can be broken into categories based on the type of data communications protocols used to speak to them from the sequencing computer. The main categories of communications protocols are:
* [[Renard]] (using either RS232-serial or RS485)
* [[E1.31_(Streaming-ACN)_Protocol|E1.31]] (DMX over Ethernet)
* [[DMX]] A traditional stage lighting protocol
* Programs stored on SD memory cards
* Lightorama LOR compatable gear

When choosing a Pixel controller it is important that you confirm that your selection is compatible with you system design. Critical properties to consider include are:
* Communications Protocol (E1.31, Renard, DMX, LOR, Etc.)
* [[Choosing_a_Pixel_Voltage:_5V_vs_12V|Pixel Voltage]] (5VDC vs 12VDC)
* [[Different_Styles_of_Pixels|Pixel Type]] (WS2801, WS2811, GECE, LOR, Etc.)
* Number of Pixels to be Controlled
* Number of Connectors and Number of Strings that can be Physically Connected
* Advanced Features
** Grouping (ability to treat multiple Pixels as one)
** RGB Ordering (ability to correct the physical RGB order to match the software sequence order)
** ZigZag (Ability to treat physical strings as multiple logical strings)
** Reverse order (ability to reorder the channels on a string so the most distant one is the first channel)
** Etc.

Generally you also need to add an [[Enclosures|Enclosure]] to the Pixel Controller to protect it from the weather. You will also need a [[Power Supplies|Power Supply]] to power the Pixel Controller and Pixels. There are several ways to connect the [[Power_Injection|Power wiring]] and there are also several types of [[Pixel Connectors]] that can be used to simplify the wiring.

=Disclaimers=
The standard disclaimers pertaining to the information contained on this wiki page are listed [[Disclaimers | here.]] 
'''THIS PAGE IS UNDER CONSTRUCTION AND IS NOT COMPLETE!!''' 

These are selected Pixel Controllers and other devices from the various vendors with a mix of properties. Visit their sites for the latest information and to see their entire product catalog.

'''PLEASE CONFIRM ALL DETAILS WITH VENDOR BEFORE ORDERING!! ALL OF THIS DATA IS SUBJECT TO CONSTANT CHANGE AND MAY BE WRONG!!!'''

Pricing is in US $. Pricing is as of 1-29-13.

'''PRICING DOES NOT INCLUDE SHIPPING, TAXES OR IMPORT DUTIES!'''

Shipping from overseas can be expensive, check with your vendor.

=PIXEL CONTROLLERS=
=='''Renard Protocol (RS232 or RS485)to SPI (Pixel Communication)'''==
'''[[Renard_PX1_Pixel_Controller|Renard PX1 Pixel Controller]]'''

The Renard PX1 was designed by [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/member.php?9-P-Short Phil Short] as an inexpensive Pixel controller designed to work with standard Renard systems. It can be daisy chained with other Renard controllers. The PX1 provides a low cost solution that allows a user to add pixels to an existing display setup using just a simple Renard setup.

=='''E1.31 (Ethernet) to SPI (Pixel Communications)'''==
These interfaces accept an [[E1.31_(Streaming-ACN)_Protocol|E1.31 (Ethernet)]] input and typically drive one or more pixel strings.

===[http://www.HolidayCoro.com HolidayCoro] ===
(USA Based run by DIYC user [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/member.php?3828-dmoore David Moore (dmoore)])

Default IP Address: 192.168.0.50 or DHCP if available - can be discovered on network using Assistant Utility
{| class="wikitable" style="text-align: center;"
|-
| Model || Max Pixels || DMX Universes || Pixels Supported || Output Connectors || String Outputs || Image || Link || Price || Manual/Videos || Note
|-
| PixLite 4 || 2,720 || 16 UniCast 16 MultiCast||WS2811,WS2812,WS801,WS2803 TM1804,TM1803,TM1812,SM16715 TLS3001,TLS3002,CY3005 LPD6803,D705,LPD1101 USC6909,UCS6912,SM16716,MBI6020|| 4 Fused Outputs Screw Terminals || 4 Outputs 680 Pixels Per Output || [[Image:HolidayCoro-622.jpg|150px|link=http://www.holidaycoro.com/product-p/622.htm]] || [http://www.holidaycoro.com/Product-p/622.htm Product Link] ||Assembled $129.99 ||[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ej1ReP8sVB8 General Setup Video] [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ej1ReP8sVB8 LOR S3 Setup Video] [http://www.advateklights.com/resources/download-info/pixlite-16-user-manual Manual] || Includes one dedicated RS-485/DMX output, 28A per Controller/7A per Output, Gamma Correction, Temp & Power Monitor
|-
| PixLite 16 || 5,440 || 32 UniCast 32 MultiCast||WS2811,WS2812,WS801,WS2803 TM1804,TM1803,TM1812,SM16715 TLS3001,TLS3002,CY3005 LPD6803,D705,LPD1101 USC6909,UCS6912,SM16716,MBI6020|| 16 Fused Outputs Screw Terminals || 16 Outputs 340 Pixels Per Output || [[Image:621.jpg|150px|link=http://www.holidaycoro.com/product-p/621.htm]] || [http://www.holidaycoro.com/Product-p/621.htm Product Link] ||Assembled $219.99 ||[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ej1ReP8sVB8 General Setup Video] [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ej1ReP8sVB8 LOR S3 Setup Video] [http://www.advateklights.com/resources/download-info/pixlite-16-user-manual Manual] || Includes four dedicated RS-485/DMX outputs (does not use a pixel output), 30A per Bank, 2 Banks per Controller (60A Total)/4A per Output, Gamma Correction, Temp & Power Monitor
|}

===[http://www.sandevices.com SanDevices]===
(USA Based run by DIYC user [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/member.php?4668-jstjohnz jstjohnz])

[http://sandevices.com/documents/E68x_Controller_Pixel_Config.pdf E68x Configuration Guide]

[http://www.sandevices.com/downloads.html Firmware Updates]

[[E68X-to-DMX#Converter_Configuration]]

Default IP Address: 192.168.1.206

{| class="wikitable"
|-
| Model || Max Pixels || DMX Universes || Pixels Supported || Output Connectors || Max Channels || DMX Universes per Output || Image || Link || Price || Manual || Note
|-
| E6804-4 || 2040 || 7Multicast / 12Unicast || GECE, Native DMX, TM1804, 1903, WS2801, WS2811, TLS3001, CYT3005, LPD6803(+8bit), 8806, 9813, and others|| 4 Fused (1x4 Electrical, 4x1 Logical) || 6120 || Up to 12 || || [http://sandevices.com/E6804Info.html link] || Assembled/Tested: $99, Full Kit: Price $69 [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?26225-E6804-4-port-pixel-controller Presale]|| [http://sandevices.com/documents/SanDevices_E6804_Pixel_Controller_Operating_Manual.pdf Owner's] [http://sandevices.com/documents/SanDevices_E6804_Assembly_Manual.pdf Assembly] || Size is 2.5" x 4", mounting holes on 2"x3" centers, compatible with CG series enclosures. [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?25504-New-Pixel-Controller&p=258848#post258848 Announcement ]
|-
| PS-1 || 1020 || 6Multicast || GECE, Native DMX, TM1804, 1903, WS2801, WS2811, TLS3001, CYT3005, LPD6803(+8bit), 8806, 9813, and others|| 16 Fused (2x8 Electrical, 4x4 Logical) || 3060 || Up to 6 || || [http://sandevices.com/PixelSystem1.html link] || Turnkey System: $399 || [http://sandevices.com/documents/PS1_Users_Guide.pdf Owner's ] || Assembled E682 with power supply in an Enclosure
|-
| E682-12 || 2040 || 6Multicast / 12Unicast || GECE, Native DMX, TM1804, 1903, WS2801, WS2811, TLS3001, CYT3005, LPD6803(+8bit), 8806, 9813, and others|| 16 Fused (2x8 Electrical, 4x4 Logical) || 6120 || Up to 12 || || [http://www.sandevices.com/E681info.html link] || Assembled/Tested: $180, Full Kit: Price $109 || [http://sandevices.com/documents/E682_Operating_Manual.pdf Owner's ] [http://sandevices.com/documents/E682_Assembly_Instructions.pdf Assembly ] ||To be released shortly
|-
| E682-6 || 1020 || 6Multicast || GECE, Native DMX, TM1804, 1903, WS2801, WS2811, TLS3001, CYT3005, LPD6803(+8bit), 8806, 9813, and others|| 16 Fused (2x8 Electrical, 4x4 Logical) || 3060 || Up to 6 || || [http://www.sandevices.com/E681info.html link] || Assembled/Tested: $180, Full Kit: Price $109 || [http://sandevices.com/documents/E682_Operating_Manual.pdf Owner's ] [http://sandevices.com/documents/E682_Assembly_Instructions.pdf Assembly ] || Original E682, Before Firmware Upgrade
|-
| E681-12 || 2040 || 6Multicast / 12Unicast || GECE, Native DMX, TM1804, 1903, WS2801, WS2811, TLS3001, CYT3005, LPD6803(+8bit), 8806, 9813, and others|| 16 Fused (2x8 Electrical, 4x4 Logical) || 6120 || Up to 12 || || [http://www.sandevices.com/E681info.html link] || No Longer Available || [http://sandevices.com/documents/E681_opman.pdf Owner's ] [http://sandevices.com/documents/E681_Assembly_Instructions.pdf Assembly ] || Firmware To be released shortly, requires [http://www.sandevices.com/UPG1.html UP1 upgrade]
|-
| E681-6 || 1020 || 6Multicast || GECE, Native DMX, TM1804, 1903, WS2801, WS2811, TLS3001, CYT3005, LPD6803(+8bit), 8806, 9813, and others|| 16 Fused (2x8 Electrical, 4x4 Logical) || 3060 || Up to 6 || || [http://www.sandevices.com/E681info.html link] || No Longer Available || [http://sandevices.com/documents/E681_opman.pdf Owner's ] [http://sandevices.com/documents/E681_Assembly_Instructions.pdf Assembly ] || Original E681, with Firmware Upgrade and [http://www.sandevices.com/UPG1.html UP1 upgrade]
|-
| E681-4 || 680 || 4Multicast || GECE, Native DMX, TM1804, 1903, WS2801, WS2811, TLS3001, CYT3005, LPD6803(+8bit), 8806, 9813, and others|| 16 Fused (2x8 Electrical, 4x4 Logical) || 2040 || Up to 4 || || [http://www.sandevices.com/E681info.html link] || No Longer Available || [http://sandevices.com/documents/E681_opman.pdf Owner's ] [http://sandevices.com/documents/E681_Assembly_Instructions.pdf Assembly ] || Original E681, without Firmware Upgrade and without [http://www.sandevices.com/UPG1.html UP1 upgrade]
|-
| E680-12 || 2040 || 6Multicast / 12Unicast || GECE, Native DMX, TM1804, 1903, WS2801, WS2811, TLS3001, CYT3005, LPD6803(+8bit), 8806, 9813, and others|| 16 Fused (2x8 Electrical, 4x4 Logical) || 6120 || Up to 12 || || [http://www.sandevices.com/E680Info.html link] || Partial Kit: $19 (PC Board + EEPROM) needs additional parts to function || [http://sandevices.com/documents/e680_opman.pdf Owner's ] [http://sandevices.com/documents/e680_assemman.pdf Assembly ] ||To be released shortly, requires [http://www.sandevices.com/UPG1.html UP1 upgrade]
|-
| E680-6 || 1020 || 6Multicast || GECE, Native DMX, TM1804, 1903, WS2801, WS2811, TLS3001, CYT3005, LPD6803(+8bit), 8806, 9813, and others|| 16 Fused (2x8 Electrical, 4x4 Logical) || 3060 || Up to 6 || || [http://www.sandevices.com/E680Info.html link] || Partial Kit: $19 (PC Board + EEPROM) needs additional parts to function || [http://sandevices.com/documents/e680_opman.pdf Owner's ] [http://sandevices.com/documents/e680_assemman.pdf Assembly ] || Original E680, with Firmware Upgrade and [http://www.sandevices.com/UPG1.html UP1 upgrade]
|-
| E680-4 || 680 || 4Multicast || GECE, Native DMX, TM1804, 1903, WS2801, WS2811, TLS3001, CYT3005, LPD6803(+8bit), 8806, 9813, and others|| 16 Fused (2x8 Electrical, 4x4 Logical) || 2040 || Up to 4 || || [http://www.sandevices.com/E680Info.html link] || Partial Kit: $19 (PC Board + EEPROM) needs additional parts to function || [http://sandevices.com/documents/e680_opman.pdf Owner's ] [http://sandevices.com/documents/e680_assemman.pdf Assembly ] || Original E680, without Firmware Upgrade and without [http://www.sandevices.com/UPG1.html UP1 upgrade]
|}

===[http://www.j1sys.com/ Joshua 1 Systems (J1SYS)]===
(USA Based run by DIYC user [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/member.php?5441-j1sys j1sys])

[http://www.j1sys.com/assets/ecg-px-v2.0a.swf Tutorial Video]

[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3zJtKlOtI4Y Setup Video]

[http://auschristmaslighting.com/forums/index.php/topic,2232.0.html Unofficial Users Manual]

Default IP Address: 10.10.10.10

{| class="wikitable"
|-
| Model || Max Pixels || DMX Universes || Pixels Supported || Output Connectors || Max Channels || DMX Universes per Output || Image || Link || Price || Manual || Note
|-
| ECG-P12R || 2040 || 12Unicast || LPD6803, WS2801, WS2811, TM180x, TLS3001 || 12 Fused (2x6 Electrical, 3x4 Logical) || 6120 || 1 || || [http://www.j1sys.com/ecg-p12r/ link] || Assembled Board: $175 || [http://www.j1sys.com/assets/PIXAD8-Guide-v0.1.pdf Owner's ] [http://www.j1sys.com/assets/p12r-notes.pdf Notes ] ||
|-
| ECG-PIXAD8 || 1360 || 8Unicast || LPD6803, WS2801, WS2811, TM180x, TLS3001|| 8 Fused (2x4 Electrical, 2x4 Logical) || 4080 || 1 || || [http://www.j1sys.com/ecg-pixad8/ link] || Assembled Board: $155 || [http://www.j1sys.com/assets/PIXAD8-Guide-v0.1.pdf Owner's ] ||
|-
| ECG-P2 || 1360 || 8Unicast || LPD6803, WS2801, WS2811, TM180x, TLS3001|| 2 Unfused (2x1 Electrical, 2x1 Logical) || 4080 || 4 || || [http://www.j1sys.com/ecg-p2/ link] || Assembled Board: $68, Assembled Board w/case: $77 || [http://www.j1sys.com/assets/PIXAD8-Guide-v0.1.pdf Owner's ] ||
|}

===[http://stellascapes.com Stellascapes] ===
(New Zealand Based run by DIYC user [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/member.php?491-mrpackethead mrpackethead])

{| class="wikitable"
|-
| Model || Max Pixels || DMX Universes || Pixels Supported || Output Connectors || Max Channels || DMX Universes per Output || Image || Link || Price || Manual || Note
|-
| E16-II Green || 672 || 6Unicast || Stella-green || 16 Fused (? Electrical, ? Logical) || 2016 || ? || || [http://www.stellascapes.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=55&Itemid=62 link] || Assembled Board: $1296 || ||16 Character LCD Display for diagnostics and identification information.
|-
| E16-II Commercial || 672 || 6Unicast || Stella-black || 16 Fused (? Electrical, ? Logical) || 2016 || ? || || [http://www.stellascapes.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=55&Itemid=62 link] || Assembled Board: $1995 || ||With power supply and 16 400mm "tails" with waterproof screw up connectors
|-
| E16-II Pro|| 672 || 6Unicast || Stella-black || 16 Fused (? Electrical, ? Logical) || 2016 || ? || || [http://www.stellascapes.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=55&Itemid=62 link] || Assembled Board: $?? || ||With power supply and Neutrik XLR, power and ethernet chasis connectors
|-
| E2|| 170 || 1Unicast || Stella-black || 2 ? || 512 || ? || || [http://www.stellascapes.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=55&Itemid=62 link] || Assembled Board: $?? || ||With power supply,operates on low voltage DC (12-48V)
|}

=='''DMX512 to SPI'''==
These interfaces accept a DMX input and typically drive one or more pixel strings.

===[http://www.HolidayCoro.com HolidayCoro] ===
(USA Based run by DIYC user [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/member.php?3828-dmoore David Moore (dmoore)])

{| class="wikitable" style="text-align: center;"
|-
| Model || Max Pixels || DMX Channels || Pixels Supported || Output Connectors || Image || Link || Price || Note
|-
| EasyPix || 170 || 512 ||WS2811,WS2812,WS801,WS2803 TM1804,TM1803,TM1812,SM16715 TLS3001,TLS3002,CY3005 LPD6803|| 1 Fused Output Screw Terminals || [[Image:HolidayCoro-614.jpg|150px|link=http://www.holidaycoro.com/product-p/614.htm]] || [http://www.holidaycoro.com/Product-p/614.htm Product Link] ||$39.99 || Null pixels, Reverse order,Push button setting with back-lit LCD screen, built-in sequences
|-
| TinyPix || 170 || 512 ||WS2811,WS2812,WS801,WS2803 TM1804,TM1803,TM1812,SM16715 TLS3001,TLS3002,CY3005 LPD6803|| 1 Fused Output Screw Terminals || [[Image:HolidayCoro-611.jpg|150px|link=http://www.holidaycoro.com/product-p/611.htm]] || [http://www.holidaycoro.com/Product-p/611.htm Product Link] ||$34.99 || Null pixels, Reverse order, built-in sequences
|}

===[http://www.j1sys.com/ Joshua 1 Systems (J1SYS)]===
(USA Based run by DIYC user [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/member.php?5441-j1sys j1sys])

{| class="wikitable"
|-
| Model || Max Pixels || DMX Universes || Pixels Supported || Output Connectors || Max Channels || DMX Universes per Output || Image || Link || Price || Manual || Note
|-
| DCG-P2 || 170/680* || 1DMX/*4HyperDMX|| LPD6803, WS2801, WS2811, TM180x, TLS3001 || 2 Unfused (1x2 Electrical, 1x2 Logical) || 512DMX/*2048HyperDMX || 1 || || [http://www.j1sys.com link] || Assembled Board: $53 || ||2 Pixel Outputs share 1 DMX or 4 HyperDmx input channels
|-
| uDCG-P2 || 170/680* || 1DMX/*4HyperDMX|| LPD6803, WS2801, WS2811, TM180x, TLS3001 || 2 Unfused (1x2 Electrical, 1x2 Logical) || 512DMX/*2048HyperDMX || 1 || || [http://www.j1sys.com link] || Assembled Board: $42, Assembled Board w/Case: $48 || ||2 Pixel Outputs share 1 DMX or 4 HyperDmx input channels
|}

===[http://www.aliexpress.com/store/701799 Ray Wu] ===
(China Based)

*[http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/Mini-protocol-Decoder-DMX-to-WS2801-512-dmx-address-decoded/701799_440556828.html Mini protocol Decoder;DMX to WS2801,512 dmx address decoded] [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/images/f/f5/Onumen_Manual.pdf Manual]
*[http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/DD-100-series-mini-DMX-protocol-decoder-support-WS2801-protocol-control-signal/701799_340705630.html DD-100 series mini DMX protocol decoder;support WS2801 protocol control signal] [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/images/f/f5/Onumen_Manual.pdf Manual]
*[http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/LT-DMX-1809-WS2811-DMX-Decoder-support-WS2811-TM1804-TM1809-TM1812-driving-IC-DC5V-24V-input/701799_583679340.html LT-DMX-1809(WS2811) DMX Decoder;support WS2811,TM1804,TM1809,TM1812 driving IC;DC5V-24V input] [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/images/a/ad/LT-1809_DMX512_DECODER.pdf Manual]
*[http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/LT-DMX-2801-DMX-SPI-Decoder-support-WS2801-WS2803-drving-IC/701799_509914025.html LT-DMX-2801 DMX-SPI Decoder;support WS2801,WS2803 drving IC] [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/images/6/67/LT-2801_DMX512_DECODER.pdf Manual]
*[http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/LT-DMX-3001-DMX-SPI-Decoder-support-TLS3001-TLS3002-driving-IC/701799_509913931.html LT-DMX-3001 DMX-SPI Decoder;support TLS3001, TLS3002 driving IC] [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/images/f/f0/LT-3001_DMX512_DECODER.pdf Manual]
*[http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/LT-6803-DMX-Decoder-DC5-24V-input-LPD6803-specific-protocol-output-signal-Max256-steps/701799_314083682.html LT-6803 DMX Decoder;DC5-24V input;LPD6803 specific protocol output signal;Max256 steps] [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/images/3/3d/LT-6803_DMX512_DECODER.pdf Manual]
*[http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/LT-DMX-9813-DMX-SPI-Decoder-support-P9813-drving-IC/701799_509914126.html LT-DMX-9813 DMX-SPI Decoder;support P9813 drving IC] [[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/images/3/3d/LT-6803_DMX512_DECODER.pdf Manual]
*[http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/DD-1000-series-DMX-protocol-decoder-support-WS2801-IC-can-decodering-512-address/701799_340702410.html DD-1000 series DMX protocol decoder;support WS2801 IC;can decodering 512 address] [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/images/f/f5/Onumen_Manual.pdf Manual]
*[http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/DD-1000-series-DMX-protocol-decoder-support-LPD6803IC-signal-can-decodering-512-address/701799_340702107.html DD-1000 series DMX protocol decoder;support LPD6803IC signal;can decodering 512 address] [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/images/f/f5/Onumen_Manual.pdf Manual]

===[http://diybllc.com/ DIYB] ===
(USA based) Run by DIYC user [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/member.php?8235-charleskerr charleskerr]
*[http://diybllc.com/LED-Pixel-String-Controller-5-volt-DIYB-LCPC-01.htm DMX to SPI Pixel Controller] (website no longer online)

===[http://www.electron-design.ru/ Electron Design] ===
(Israel based)
*[http://www.ebay.com/itm/321131195346 Combination Dumb RGB and DMX to SPI Pixel Decoder / Controller]

===[https://www.audiovisualdevices.com.au/ AVD]===
(Australia Based run by DIYC user [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/member.php?4449-David_AVD David_AVD])
* [https://www.audiovisualdevices.com.au/viewprod.php?catid=&productid=APC718 Audio Visual Devices APC718] Single SPI (2801 / 6803) output
[http://auschristmaslighting.com/wiki/APC718 ACL Wiki ]

[http://auschristmaslighting.com/forums/index.php/topic,1243.0.html ACL Thread]

===[http://auschristmaslighting.com/ ACL]===
* [http://forums.auschristmaslighting.com/index.php/board,34.0.html TP3244 Pixel Driver] 4 SPI (2801 / 6803) outputs

The Tiger Protocol Bridge (TigerPB) TP3212 is a small controller for use with RGB LED lights and LED strips that utilise driver chips like the 6803/2801/3005. These are the currently targeted protocols and it is possible that other 2-wire and single wire protocols could be supported with firmware upgrades. This will provide future proofing of your controller.

The initial release will accept a standard DMX512A data stream and provide control for 170 RGB Pixels (510ch). There will be dual buffered outputs that will allow you to split the 170 pixels into say 100/70 and run them in different directions and yet control them as a single 170 pixel string.
Each dual buffered output will also allow for the parallel connection of the same number of pixels allowing for two strings to be used with the same patterns. If these are run in opposite directions they would provide for mirrored effects.
Each of the Dual outputs will be able to drive different protocols if required.

If ran with ECG product line from http://www.j1sys.com you can use hyper-DMX and this controller can be expanded to running 4 Universe's off each controller.

More info to Follow and at this point '''this controller is no longer sold'''. It has been talked about coming back out. As the information comes in it will be updated. If you can get one used, they are still very nice units and work well.

More info at http://auschristmaslighting.com/forums/index.php/board,34.0.html

===Onumen===
* [http://auschristmaslighting.com/wiki/Controllers#Onumen Onumen Controllers] (note that the start address of the DPP controllers cannot be fixed)

===[http://shop.martinxmas.com/ RPM]===
(USA Based run by DIYC member [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/member.php?1269-RPM RPM])
* [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?15286-DMX-to-WS2801-Pixel-Bridge RPM Pixel Bridge]

===[http://stellascapes.com Stellascapes] ===
(New Zealand Based run by DIYC user [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/member.php?491-mrpackethead mrpackethead])
*T3: DMX512 - SPI Bridge
The T3 controller provides a bridge between DMX512 and 4 strings of RGB pixels.

More details at http://www.stellascapes.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=55&Itemid=62

=='''SD Memory Card to SPI''' ==
===[http://www.aliexpress.com/store/701799 Ray Wu] ===
(China Based)

*[http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/SD-LED-pixel-light-controller-support2-3-4wire/701799_404060519.html SD LED pixel light controller;support2,3,4wire]
*[http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/led-controller-for-WS2801-IC-dream-color-led-flexible-strip/701799_331817904.html led controller for WS2801 IC dream color led flexible strip]
*[http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/SD-card-DMX-compatible-intelligence-controller-for-pixel-RGB-module-support-CYT3005-IC-512-output-gray/701799_320682984.html SD card-DMX compatible-intelligence controller for pixel RGB module,support CYT3005 IC.512 output gray scale;Max2048 pixels]
*[http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/T-100K-B-SD-card-led-pixel-controller-AC85-265V-input/701799_533617766.html T-100K-B SD card led pixel controller;AC85-265V input]
*[http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/T-200K-led-pixel-controller-can-be-controlled-via-PC-suppor-many-kinds-of-IC/701799_497637885.html T-200K online led pixel controller,can be controlled via PC;suppor many kinds of IC;8ports*512pixels=4096pixels]
*[http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/T-300K-SD-card-led-pixel-controller-AC85-265V-input-can-control-more-than-6000pixels-via/701799_570149882.html T-300K;SD card led pixel controller;AC85-265V input;can control more than 6000pixels via PC,8 ports output]
*[http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/T-1000A-LED-sd-card-pixel-controller-DC5-24V-input/701799_683082725.html T-1000A,LED sd card pixel controller,DC5-24V input]
*[http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/T-1000B-led-pixel-controller-support-WS2801-LPD6803-WS2811-TM1804-TM1809-LPD8806-Etc-max-2048pixels-controlled/701799_715270878.html T-1000B,led pixel controller,support WS2801,LPD6803,WS2811,TM1804,TM1809,LPD8806.Etc;max 2048pixels controlled]
*[http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/T-1000S-SD-card-led-pixel-controller-2012-new-version/701799_533601713.html T-1000S SD card led pixel controller,2012 new version]
*[http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/T-1000Stand-SD-card-led-pixel-controller-2012-new-version-AC110V-220V-input/701799_533604220.html T-1000Stand SD card led pixel controller,2012 new version;AC110V/220V input]
*[http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/T-4000-LED-SD-card-led-pixel-controller-can-max-control-4096-pixels/701799_533608089.html T-4000 LED SD card led pixel controller;can max control 4096 pixels]
*[http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/T-8000C-SD-card-led-pixel-controller-AC85-265V-input/701799_533612960.html T-8000C SD card led pixel controller;AC85-265V input]

=='''Light-O-Rama (LOR) to SPI''' ==

===[http://www.http://www.lightorama.com Light-O-Rama (LOR)]===
(USA Based)
*[http://store.lightorama.com/cc100pisetwi.html Cosmic Color Pixels]
*[http://store.lightorama.com/cc100busetwi.html Cosmic Color Bulbs]
*[http://store.lightorama.com/cocori.html Cosmic Color Strip]

=PIXEL Extenders=
===[http://www.j1sys.com/ Joshua 1 Systems (J1SYS)]===
(USA Based run by DIYC user [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/member.php?5441-j1sys j1sys])

*ECG-PPX
ECG-PPX is a combination of small adapter boards that can be used in conjunction with our pixel oriented products (PIXAD8, P12R, etc.) to extend the pixel signals over much longer distances. They should also work with most other brands of pixel drivers. The ECG-PPX system also will distribute a modest power envelope over the same cable for optionally powering the pixels without the need for local power supplies at the pixel strings.
More details at http://www.j1sys.com/ecg-ppx/
*ECG-PPD-A – Powered Pixel Driver - 7VDC – 12VDC input range
*ECG-PPD-B – Powered Pixel Driver - 7VDC – 40VDC input range
*ECG-PPD-C – 4 Channel Powered Pixel Driver - 7VDC – 40VDC input range on Channel 1
*ECG-PPR-A – Multi-Mode Powered Pixel Receiver
*ECG-PPI-A – Powered Pixel Injector - 7VDC-40VDC Input, 5VDC 1.5A output

=E1.31 Bridges and DMX Dongles=
=='''E1.31 (Ethernet) to DMX or Renard Output'''==
===[http://www.diyledexpress.com DIYLEDEXPRESS]===
(USA Based run by DIYC user [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/member.php?2860-tjetzer tjetzer])

*[http://www.diyledexpress.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=22&products_id=157 6 Port E1.31 Bridge]

===[http://www.j1sys.com/ Joshua 1 Systems (J1SYS)]===
(USA Based run by DIYC user [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/member.php?5441-j1sys j1sys])

*ECG-D8 (Under development)
*[http://www.j1sys.com/ecg-dr4/ ECG-DR4]
*[http://www.j1sys.com/ecg-d4/ ECG-D4]
*[http://www.j1sys.com/ecg-d2/ ECG-D2]

===[http://shop.martinxmas.com/ RPM]===
(USA Based run by DIYC member [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/member.php?1269-RPM RPM])

*[http://shop.martinxmas.com/product.php?id_product=43 E1.31 to DMX Bridge]

[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?15873-E1-31-(sACN)-to-DMX-Bridge Discussion Thread]

=='''USB to DMX512 Output'''==
USB DMX dongles are commonly used in conjunction with PC software to output a single universe (512 channels) of DMX.

* [https://www.audiovisualdevices.com.au/viewprod.php?catid=&productid=USB485RJ-ISO Audio Visual Devices] or http://auschristmaslighting.com/wiki/index.php/USB485RJ-ISO
* [http://www.enttec.com/index.php?main_menu=Products&pn=70303&show=description Enttec Open DMX USB]
* [http://www.enttec.com/index.php?main_menu=Products&prod=70304&show=description Enttec DMX USB Pro]
* [http://shop.martinxmas.com/product.php?id_product=10 RPM DIY USB to DMX Adaptor]
* [http://www.holidaycoro.com/Enttec-Pro-Compatible-DMX-Dongle-p/53.htm HolidayCoro ActiDongle - Active DMX Dongle (Enttec Pro Compatible)]
*[http://diylightanimation.com/wiki/index.php?title=Equipment#DMX_Devices RJ's LYNX DMX DONGLE]

FTDI drivers for dongles:
* [http://www.ftdichip.com/Drivers/VCP.htm FTDI VCP Drivers]
* [http://www.ftdichip.com/Documents/InstallGuides.htm Install Guides for FTDI Drivers]
* [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?17739-FTDI-USB-gt-Serial Updating a FTDI dongle's EEPROM]
* [[USB2DMX|USB2DMX (which also goes by the name Yet Another DMX Adapter, or YADA)]]

=Dumb RGB DC Controllers Feature Comparisons=
{| class="wikitable"
|+ DC Controller Comparison Table
! Manufacturer
! Model
! Pre-built
! DC Voltage
! Channels
! Channel Current
! Total Current
! Protocol(s)
! Total Price
! Per Ch Price
|-
| [http://www.lightorama.com/ Light-O-Rama]
| [http://store.lightorama.com/cmdedcca.html CMB16D]
| Yes
| 5V - 60V
| 16
| 4A
| 20A per 8 Ch
| LOR, DMX
| $119.95
| $7.49
|-
| [http://www.lightorama.com/ Light-O-Rama]
| [http://store.lightorama.com/cmdedcca2.html CMB16D-QC]
| Yes
| 5V - 60V
| 16
| 4A
| 20A per 8 Ch
| LOR, DMX
| $99.95
| $6.24
|-
| [http://www.tigerdmx.com TigerDMX]
| [[TigerDMX48]]
| Yes
| 9V - 55V
| 48
| 2.5A
| 30A per 24 Ch
| DMX
| $145.00
| $3.02
|-
| [http://www.tigerdmx.com TigerDMX]
| [http://www.tigerdmx.com/tigerdmx120lc.php TigerDMX120LC]
| Yes
| 12V - 36V
| 120
| 100mA
|
| DMX
| $125.00
| $1.04
|-
| [http://www.audiovisualdevices.com.au AVD]
| [[DC48]]
| Yes
| 12V - 36V
| 48
| 2A
| 20A per 24 Ch
| DMX
| $199.00
| $4.15
|-
| [http://www.audiovisualdevices.com.au AVD]
| [[DC24]]
| Yes
| 12V - 36V
| 24
| 2A
| 15A per 12 Ch
| DMX
| $129.00
| $5.38
|-
| [http://www.cngdjs.com Audiolight Intl]
| HD-714 [http://www.holidaycoro.com/product-p/37.htm US] [http://www.aliexpress.com/fm-store/701799/209915969-378113147/Easy-DMX-LED-controller-dmx-decoder-driver.html China]
| Yes
| 12V - 24V
| 3
| 2A
| 6A
| DMX
| $8.95
| $2.98
|-
| [http://www.cngdjs.com Audiolight Intl]
| HD-712 [http://www.holidaycoro.com/product-p/24.htm US] [http://www.aliexpress.com/fm-store/701799/209915969-378111925/Easy-DMX-LED-controller-dmx-decoder-driver.html China]
| Yes
| 12V - 24V
| 27
| 1A
| 15A
| DMX
| $44.21
| $1.64
|-
| [http://www.leynew.com Leynew]
| LN-DMXMODEL-3CH-LV12 [http://www.holidaycoro.com/product-p/26.htm US] [http://www.aliexpress.com/fm-store/701799/209915969-307297826/DMX-512-Module-decoder.html China]
| Yes
| 12V
| 3
| 2A
| 6A
| DMX
| $7.49
| $2.49
|-
| [http://http://www.euchips.com/en/ EUChips]
| [http://www.aliexpress.com/fm-store/701799/209915969-410843238/DMX512-Decoder-DC12-24V-input-max-3A-each-channel-output.html PX24506]
| Yes
| 12V - 24V
| 3
| 3A
| 9A
| DMX
| $22.32
| $7.44
|-
| [http://www.xmasinmelb.com/zencart/ wjohn]
| [[DMX3]]
| No
| 9-35vdc
| 3
| 2A per Chn
| up to 6A
| DMX
| $9.00
| $3.00
|-
| [http://www.xmasinmelb.com/zencart/ wjohn]
| [[DMX16DCSSR]]
| No
| 12-24vdc
| 16
| 2A per Chn
| up to 10A
| DMX
| $48.00
| $3.00
|-
| [http://www.xmasinmelb.com/zencart/ wjohn]
| [[REN64]]
| No
| 9-35vdc
| 64
| 2A per Chn
| up to 7A per SSR
| RS232/485, DMX
| $67.50
| $1.05
|-
| [http://www.christmasinshirley.com/wiki/index.php?title=Renard_Main_Page Renard]
| [http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=Ren48LSDv3c Ren48LSD]
| No
| 5,9-24vdc
| 48
| 400mA
| 9.6A x 2
| RS232/485, DMX
| $44.66
| $0.93
|-
| [http://www.diyledexpress.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=35_57 DIYLEDExpress]
| [http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=Ren24DC Ren24DC]
| Built or Kit
| 5,7-24vdc
| 24
| 4A
| 30A x 2
| RS232/485, DMX
| $72.10
| $3
|}

[http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/DM-103-3-channel-RGB-dmx-constant-voltage-decoder-DC12-24V-input-max-2A-3channel-output/701799_868042910.html DM103 Ray Wu DMX to 3 Channel]

=Related Links=
[[Different Styles of Pixels]] 
[[Pixel Wiring Colors]] 
[[Dumb RGB or Intelligent Pixels??]] 
[[Things You Will Need To Get Started With Pixels]] 
[[Power Supplies]] 
[[Pixel Connectors]] 
[[Choosing a Pixel Voltage: 5V vs 12V]] 
[[Power Injection]] 
[[Waterproofing Pixels]] 
[[Null Pixels]] 
[[E1.31_(Streaming-ACN)_Protocol|E1.31 Network Setup and Configuration]]

[[Category:RGB]]
[[Category:Pixel]]

Renard px1

2014-12-07T18:08:50Z

Jrd: This redirect has been missing for far too long.

#REDIRECT [[Renard PX1 Pixel Controller]]

Renard PX-1

2014-12-07T18:06:30Z

Jrd: This redirect has been missing for far too long.

#REDIRECT [[Renard PX1 Pixel Controller]]

Renard24

2014-03-29T03:54:29Z

Jrd: Redirected page to Ren24

#REDIRECT [[Ren24]]

Ren24

2014-03-29T03:50:03Z

Jrd: Added Ren24DC

There are at least 4 different 24 channel renard board designs, they are: 
==Renard SS24==
The [[The_Renard_SS24_Controller_Board | Renard SS24]] is a 24 channel AC controller with integrated ACSSRs and is frequently available for purchase thru group buys on the site. The Renard Standardized Series (SS) controllers are part of a design effort to standardize the board layouts for Renard based systems and to establish a standardized list of components to use in Renard designs.
 
[[image:Wiki - Renard SS24 Completed Board.jpg | 500px]]
 

==Renard 24HC==
The [[24 Channel Renard with SSR Assembly Instructions | Ren24HC]] is a 24 Channel AC controller with integrated ACSSrs and is available for purchase offsite. 
[[Image:26-72.jpg | 400px]]
 
==Renard 24LV==
The [[Renard_24LV | Renard 24LV]] is a 24 channel DC controller. Is also available for purchase offsite.
 
[[Image:REN_24_LV.jpg | 400px]]
 
==Ren24DC==
The [[Ren24DC | Ren24DC]] is a high current 24 channel DC controller with integrated DCSSRs supporting 4 Amps per channel and 60 Amps total. It is available for purchase from [http://www.diyledexpress.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=35_57&products_id=278 DIYLEDExpress].
 
[[Image:Ren24DC-Step30-Final.jpg | 400px]]

Simple Renard RGB+W

2014-02-17T08:42:41Z

Jrd: Updated phase-out notice.

='''Simple Renard RGB+W 32 Channel DC Controller'''=

[[File:SR_RGB+W_populated.jpg|500px]] 

=Disclaimers=
The standard disclaimers pertaining to the information contained on this wiki page are listed [[Disclaimers | here.]] 

'''Important Note: The Simple Renard line is being replaced by the Renard Plus line of controllers. PCBs are still available [http://n7xgshop.net/shop/category.php?id_category=5 here].'''

=Introduction=

==What is the Simple Renard RGB+W?==
The Simple Renard RGB+W is a low cost 32 channel DC controller designed to drive low current DC loads like RGB+W LED flood lights (such as [[DIYC_Flood| DIYC Flood]], [[Mighty_Mini|Mighty Mini]] or [[Super_Strip|Frank's Super Strip]]). Unlike other DC designs like the [[Ren48LSDv3c|REN48LSD]] , the Simple Renard RGB+W makes use of a different PIC, the [http://ww1.microchip.com/downloads/en/devicedoc/39631e.pdf PIC18F4520]. This PIC allows 32 channels per PIC to be controlled compared to the usual 8 channels per PIC (16F688) used in most Renard designs. This allows a smaller board and lower total cost. The design uses low cost NPN bipolar transistors to switch the loads to ground to power the outputs.

The board is capable of switching 5-24VDC at up to maximum of 500ma per channel for a very short period of time you should not exceed 400ma per channel for continuous use. The outputs use RJ45 jacks to provide easy access to the high channel count outputs. Power is supplied to the board thru two separate power inputs that allow a total of 7A to be supplied to each half of the board. The board requires either a 5vdc well regulated supply or a good 9-24vdc supply. An on board voltage regulator provides the necessary power for the PIC and transistors on the pcb.

For higher current DC loads it is also possible to connect [[DC_SSR|DC SSRs]] to the output of the Simple Renard RGB+W to drive high current DC loads such as long LED RGB strips, motors or other inductive loads.

The board was designed in the Fall of 2011 by [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/member.php?5549-Mactayl Mactayl] and [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/member.php?2120-tstraub tstraub], inspired by [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/member.php?627-N7XG n7xg], and based on original concepts by [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/member.php?9-P-Short p.short], [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/member.php?583-scorpia p.rogers] and [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/member.php?1986-budude budude].
 

==How does the Simple Renard RGB+W work?==
The Simple Renard RGB+W uses a similar architecture for the logic portions of the board as the RenardSS series of boards. Sequence information is passed from a PC running Vixen or other sequencing program via an RS-485 interface. The RS485 chip receives this information and turn into standard TTL logic levels that the PIC can understand. The PIC reads in the data and if it determines that the information corresponds to itself, it updates the dimming levels of all 32 channels. It removes this information from the stream and feeds the rest out to the RS485 chip which translates it to RS-485 levels for the next controller in the line. It is important to realize that the information is removed from the stream and that the resultant leftover stream will have all of the data offset by the 32 channels of information used by the Simple Renard RGB+W. For example, if you have two Simple Renard RGB+W, on Vixen you would configure a single Renard plug-in with 64 channels. The first Simple Renard RGB+W consumes the first 32 channels of information leaving only 32 channels on it's outputs. The second Renard RGB+W will see this incoming data as controller #1 again and assume the data is for it. This is very much different than standard hard/soft-coded DMX or LOR devices that use a set address yet still pass on the entire stream to the next controller on the line.

The PIC in the Simple Renard RGB+W uses the internal PIC oscillator.

So - now that the PIC has the updated dimming levels for all of it's channels, it enables each of its outputs using PWM or Pulse Width Modulation. It is important to grasp that the voltage levels are not controlled - it is the amount of time on and off that is varied within a small cycle of time for each update. It seems logical that to dim things you would just change the voltage from 12v to 9v for example. Instead, the voltage is on at the full 12v for x amount of time and then it is off (0v) for the y amount of time - it is not something in-between. The cycle time is controlled by the PIC in the case of the Renard RGB+W. In RenardSS boards, they use a Zero-Cross (ZC) signal which is created by an opto-isolator attached to the AC line (either directly to the mains or via a transformer and in both cases through some resistors to limit the current to the opto). Since the Renard RGB+W does not have any AC supplied to it, the PIC basically makes up it's own timing but it closely resembles what is seen with normal ZC usage.

The Simple Renard RGB+W uses sourced outputs and not sinked outputs like the RenardSS controllers. Why is this? Because the PIC needs to turn on a transistor and to do this, it supplies 5v on it's output which turns on the transistor (via a resistor to limit the current) which allows current to flow from the collector to the emitter of the transistor. The emitter is directly connected to ground so basically, the transistor sinks the current from the LEDs (or whatever you have attached to the output) to ground. The positive voltage from the DC power supply connects directly to the device you have attached and this completes the circuit.
 

==Revision History==
The Version v.1b is currently the most recent version of the Simple Renard RGB+W in production.

=Simple Renard RGB+W Parts=
In addition to the PCB, you will need the following components:
===Mouser===
<table border="1">
<tr><td>Part</td><td>Description</td><td>Mouser PN</td><td>Qty</td></tr>
<tr><td>P1</td><td>Fixed Terminal Blocks 5.08MM VERTICAL 2P wire protector</td><td>571-7969492</td><td>2</td></tr>
<tr><td>C1,C2</td><td>Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - Leaded 35volts 100uF 6.3x11 20% 2LS</td><td>647-UVZ1V101MED</td><td>2</td></tr>
<tr><td>C6</td><td>Multilayer Ceramic Capacitors (MLCC) - Leaded 0.33uF 50volts X7R 10%</td><td>81-RDER71H334K1K103B</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>C3,C4,C5</td><td>Multilayer Ceramic Capacitors (MLCC) - Leaded 0.1uF 50volts Y5V +80-20% 2.5mm L/S</td><td>81-RPEF51104Z2S2A03A</td><td>3</td></tr>
<tr><td>D2</td><td>Zener Diodes 4.3 Volt 0.5 Watt)</td><td>78-1N5229B</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>D1</td><td>Zener Diodes 9.1 Volt 0.5 Watt)</td><td>78-1N5239B</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>IC1</td><td>RS-485 Interface IC LP Diff Pairs</td><td>595-SN65LBC179P</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>IC3</td><td>Linear Regulators - Standard 1A Pos Vol Reg</td><td>512-LM7805CT</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td></td><td>IC & Component Sockets 40P DUAL WIPE DIPSKT</td><td>517-4840-6000-CP</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>IC5</td><td>Microcontrollers (MCU) 32KB 1536 RAM 36I/O</td><td>579-PIC18F4520-I/P</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>ICSP</td><td>Headers & Wire Housings FLAT HEADER 6P Straight Post tin</td><td>571-6404526</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>JP2 XBee header</td><td>Headers & Wire Housings FLAT HEADER 5P Straight Post tin</td><td>571-640452-5</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>Shunt for XBheader and Vreg bypass</td><td>Headers & Wire Housings Mini Shunt .177" height</td><td>737-MSC-G</td><td>3</td></tr>
<tr><td>JP3 Vreg bypass</td><td>Headers & Wire Housings FLAT HEADER 2P Straight Post tin</td><td>571-6404522</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>J1-J10</td><td>Ethernet & Telecom Connectors 8 PCB TOP ENTRY </td><td>571-5556416-1</td><td>10</td></tr>
<tr><td>Status Led</td><td>Standard LED - Through Hole YELLOW DIFFUSED</td><td>78-TLHY5405</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>Power Led</td><td>Standard LED - Through Hole RED DIFFUSED</td><td>78-TLHR5401</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>RX/TX Led</td><td>Standard LED - Through Hole GREEN DIFFUSED</td><td>78-TLHG5401</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>R1,R2,R6</td><td>Carbon Film Resistors - Through Hole 1.0Kohms 0.05</td><td>299-1k-RC</td><td>3</td></tr>
<tr><td>R3,R7</td><td>Carbon Film Resistors - Through Hole 330ohms 5%</td><td>299-330-RC</td><td>2</td></tr>
<tr><td>R4</td><td>Carbon Film Resistors - Through Hole 10Kohms 5%</td><td>299-10k-RC</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>R5</td><td>Carbon Film Resistors - Through Hole 120ohms 0.05</td><td>299-120-RC</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>R9,R10</td><td>Carbon Film Resistors - Through Hole 27Kohms 5%</td><td>299-27k-RC</td><td>2</td></tr>
<tr><td>R11-42</td><td>Carbon Film Resistors - Through Hole 820ohms 5%</td><td>299-820-RC</td><td>32</td></tr>
<tr><td>T1-32</td><td>Transistors Bipolar (BJT) 600mA 75V NPN</td><td>863-PN2222AG</td><td>32</td></tr>
<tr><td>PIC Bypass</td><td>Headers & Wire Housings NARROW FLT HDR 3P Straight Post</td><td>571-3-644456-3</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td></td><td>IC & Component Sockets 8P DUAL WIPE DIPSKT</td><td>517-4808-3004-CP</td><td>1</td></tr>
</table> 

[http://www.mouser.com:80/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=d37c8361c9 Click Here for Mouser Direct Project BOM]

The Kit is available at [http://www.diyledexpress.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=17&products_id=100 DIYLEDExpress.com]

===Housing===
The Simple Renard RGB+W was designed to fit in the [http://www.aflglobal.com/cmspages/bluekey/getfile.aspx?aliaspath=/productlist/Product-Lines/Optical-Connectivity---Apparatus/CableGuard-500-Coax-Demarcation-Enclosure/doc/CG-500-Coax-Demarcation-Enclosure CG-500 Demarcation Enclosure] available from numerous vendors including [http://www.diyledexpress.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=16 www.diyledexpress.com] and [http://wlcventures.com/zencart/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=1| www.wlcventures.com] 

=Building the Simple Renard RGB+W=
==Assembly==

The Simple Renard RGB+W is a simple device to assemble and test. It is easiest if you build the units by inserting the various components from smallest to tallest .

# Begin by inspecting the PCBs to look for any defects such as cracks or breaks. The holes on the board should be open on both sides. Then inspect and sort out the various parts for the board.
# Install the resistors:
## Install the 1K ohm resistors at locations R1,R2,R6. The resistor are not polarized, so they can go either way.
## Install the 330 ohm resistors at locations R3,R7. The resistor are not polarized, so they can go either way.
## Install the 10K ohm resistor at location R4. The resistor is not polarized, so it can go either way.
## Install the 120 ohm resistor at location R5. The resistor is not polarized, so it can go either way.
## Install the 27K ohm resistors at locations R9,R10. The resistor are not polarized, so they can go either way.
## Install the 820 ohm resistors at locations R11-42. The resistor are not polarized, so they can go either way.
# Install the capacitors:
## Install the 100uf Electrolytic Capacitors at locations C1,C2. The capacitors are polarized. The side of the capacitor will have a stripe on the negative side. The long lead is the positive side, and it goes in the hole marked with a +.
## Install the 0.33uf Ceramic Capacitor at location C6. The capacitor is not polarized, so it can go either way.
## Install the 0.1uf Ceramic Capacitors at locations C3,C4,C5. The capacitors are not polarized, so they can go either way.
# Install the IC sockets:
## Install the 8 pin socket at location IC1. The notch on the socket should face the right side of the board, matching the silkscreen image.
## Install the 40 pin socket at location IC2. The notch on the socket should face the right side of the board, matching the silkscreen image.
# Install the diodes:
## Install the 1N5239 diode at location D1. The diode is polarized and it can only go one way. The end with the band (cathode) goes towards the left side of the board.
## Install the 1N5229 diode at location D2. The diode is polarized and it can only go one way. The end with the band (cathode) goes towards the left side of the board.
# Install the transistors:
## Install the PN2222AG NPN transistors at locations T1-32. The transistors are polarized and can only go one way. The transistors should be installed with the flat side matching the silk screen image. T1-16 on the top side of the board should have the flat side facing to the right side of the board. T17-32 on the bottom side of the board should have the flat side facing to the left side of the board.
# Install the light emitting diodes:
## Install the Red LED at the location marked Power. The LED is polarized. There is a flat side (cathode) that has a short lead and it faces towards the right side of the board.
## Install the Yellow LED at the location marked Status. The LED is polarized. There is a flat side (cathode) that has a short lead and it faces towards the right side of the board.
## Install the Green LED at the location marked RX/TX. The LED is polarized. There is a flat side (cathode) that has a short lead and it faces towards the right side of the board.
# Install the headers:
## Install the 5 pin header at location JP2 (RENW header). The short side of the header strip goes into the board.
## Install the 2 pin header at location JP3 (VREG bypass). The short side of the header strip goes into the board.
## Install the 3 pin header at location JP4 (PIC bypass). The short side of the header strip goes into the board.
## Install the 6 pin header at location ICSP (PIC programming header). The short side of the header strip goes into the board.
# Install the 5v linear regulator at location IC3. The voltage regulator is polarized and goes only one way. Gently bend the leads of the regulator at the location on the leads where it changes size down at a 90 degree angle towards the flat side of the regulator. Apply thermal grease to the flat heat sink side of the regulator and fasten it to the pcb using a #4 screw and nut.
# Install the RJ45 jacks at locations J1-10. Gently align the eight wires with the matching holes and snap the connector to the board. Solder the connector to the circuit board being careful to not short out the connectors.
# Install the 2 terminal strips at locations TB1,TB2. The side where the wires enter under the screw should face the right of the board.
# Install the jumper shunts:
## Install the shunts on the headers according to the [[Simple_Renard_RGB%2BW#Jumper_Settings_.2F_Headers|Header Settings]] listed below. 

==Initial Testing / Final Assembly==
#The first thing you will want to do in any PCB construction project is to double check that you have all components installed and in the proper orientation. You will then want to inspect the board for any cold/bridged solder joints. Take your time with this step and go over each and every joint.
#If you have any of the IC's (IC1, IC2)installed - remove them now.
#Connect your power supply to the “TB1 (V+1)” - it supplies power to controller portion of the board as well as outputs 1-16. “TB2 (V+2)” is a separate input to drive outputs 17-32. Note that the ground is shared between the two inputs. If you are using a well regulated +5vdc power supply as your power input, the regulator circuit should not be installed. However, you must manually bypass this by placing a jumper on header JP3.
#Turn on the supply and verify the power LED lights up. Verify you have 5v between pins 11 and 12 on the PIC socket as well as between pins 1 and 4 on the 485 chip socket. Install all of the IC's if this passes.
# Install the ICs:
## Install the PIC18F4520 in the 40 pin socket at location IC2. The IC is polarized. Gently install the IC so that the notch faces towards the right matching the socket and the silkscreen.
## Install the SN65LBC179P in the 8 pin socket at location IC1. The IC is polarized. Gently install the IC so that the notch faces towards the right matching the socket and the silkscreen.

Congratulations! That completes the construction of the Simple Renard RGB+W ! 

==Programming the PIC==
'''The Simple Renard RGB+W does not use the default Renard firmware used on other Renard devices.''' You must program the Simple Renard RGB+W with the [[Simple_Renard_RGB%2BW#Firmware|special firmware]] listed below. You can plug your PICKIT programmer directly on the ICSP header making sure to align Pin1 on the ICSP header with Pin 1 of the PICKIT.

==Final Testing==
The Simple Renard RGB+W has three diagnostic LEDs.
#The Power LED is lit when +5vdc is available to the PIC from either the voltage regulator circuit or voltage regulator bypass, if it is installed and +5vdc is applied to TB1 (V+1).
#The Status LED flashes on and off when the power is applied and the PIC is properly programed and running.
#The RX/TX LED flashes when serial data is received or transmitted

The design is fairly straight-forward and as long as you are sure of the voltage inputs and the PIC is flashed properly you should not have any issues if your soldering is good.

The data wiring of the Simple Renard RGB+W is the same as the RenardSS series so you can follow the cabling requiremnents for that.

Connect the Simple Renard RGB+W to your PC using standard wiring practices as on the Wiki for other Renard controllers. Develop a Vixen sequence to turn on/off each channel in groups of four using the appropriate Renard plug-in. Channels 1, 5, 9, etc should have the same programming but only have 1 channel in the group (1,2,3,4) on at a time. This helps ensure you have unique channel
addressing from each RJ45 output.

With the sequence running, plug in a RGB+W device such as a [[DIYC_Flood|DIYC Flood]] or [[Super_Strip|Super Strip strip]] into each RJ45 and ensure each color turns on in order. Once that is complete you change the on/off to ramp up/downs to verify dimming operation. Finally, you can perform a full load test with 8 devices installed.

The Simple Renard RGB+W can be used to drive other devices as well of course. The [[Mighty_Mini|Mighty Mini]] floods can be wired using normal RGBW wiring since the MM end of the cable goes into terminal blocks versus an RJ45 jack. Another popular flood is the [http://www.seasonalentertainmentllc.com/rainbowfloodlight.htm ChristmasOnManor Rainbow Flood]. This is an RGB (no white) flood so it only uses 3 channels. The wiring uses pins 2, 4 and 8 to drive Red, Green and Blue. Note that pin 6 - or the 3rd channel is not used here. You have a few choices - in Vixen simply skip that channel, or if you really want to use that channel, you will need to do some creative cabling or not use the RJ45 jacks at all and wire the 3 channels directly to the board.

==Mounting in Housing==
TBD

=Jumper Settings / Headers=
==JP1 PIC Option ==
This header is currently unused. The default position is no jumper. 
==JP2 XBee Header==
This header is used to connect a XBee Wireless module directly to the Renard RGB+W. If you are not using a XBee Wireless module, the default jumper position is a jumper across pins 4/5.

Pin Layout 
1 = +5VDC 
2 = N/C 
3 = GND 
4 = RX from 485 chip 
5 = RX in to PIC 
 

==JP3- Vreg Bypass==
This header position allows you to bypass and omit the on board voltage regulator if you are feeding TB1 (V1+) with a well regulated +5vdc. The default position is for no header if you are using the on board regulator. Only install jumper on JP3 if you have omitted C1 and IC3 and if TB1 V1+ is +5VDC and well regulated! 

==JP4 PIC Bypass==
If you are using Start Address Programming, you can use the PIC bypass to allow the data to flow thru the Simple Renard RGB+W without the usual Renard "address eating". If you use a jumper across pins 1/2 then the data stream that comes into the device goes out exactly as it came in with no addresses consumed by the Simple Renard RGB+W. The default position is a jumper across pins 2/3. 
Pin Layout 
1 = Data In from RS485 IC 
2 = Data Out to RS485 IC 
3 = Data Out from PIC 

==ICSP==
This header allows the PIC to be programmed or reprogrammed while still plugged into the circuit board. To use the ICSP header plug your PICKIT programmer directly onto the header, making note to align pin 1 of the header with pin1 of the PICKIT. 
Pin Layout 
Pin 1 = MCLR 
Pin 2 = +5 volts 
Pin 3 = GND 
Pin 4 = PGD 
Pin 5 = PGC 
Pin 6 = PGM/RB5 

=Power Requirements=
The board requires either a 5vdc well regulated supply or a good 9-24vdc supply.

The logic portions of the board require a steady +5vdc supply. This can be supplied in two ways on the Simple Renard RGB+W. If you use a well-regulated +5vdc power supply, you skip installing the voltage regulator and capacitor and install a jumper across the JP3 header. This will feed the power from the TB1 (V+1) jack directly to the logic components. Obviously care must be taken to ONLY use a 5vdc supply - if a 12v supply is connected in this configuration, you will probably lose your PIC and RS485 chips in one shot. If you are planning to use a 9-24vdc supply then you must install the regulator circuitry. This allows the power supplied on the TB1 (V+1) connector to be converted down to +5vdc for the logic components. It is important to realize that the 5v created is only used by the logic components, it is NOT sent out to the outputs of the Simple Renard RGB+W. The outputs always follow whatever you place on TB1 (V+1) and TB2 (V+2). The two connectors are separated so it is possible to run different voltages on TB1 (V+1) and TB2 (V2) (say 5v and 12v). Here again, extreme caution must be taken to ensure you do not mix up supplies or plug your device into the wrong outputs (say a 5v strip into a 12v output). In addition, you must ensure that the two power supplies will work harmoniously with a shared ground connection since the ground plane is shared between TB1 (V+1) and TB2 (V+2).

TB1 (V+1) powers Channels 1-16. TB2 (V+2) powers channels 17-32.

= Connecting up the Simple Renard RGB+W=
==Computer Setup==

:VIXEN Settings

::The Renard Simple RGB+W requires the Renard Dimmer [Vixen 1.1.*] or Renard Dimmer (modified) [Vixen 2.*] Plug-In.

::Renard Dimmer Plug-In Settings:
:::*Protocol Version: 1
:::*COM1 (or whichever COM port you are connected to)
:::*Baud: 57600 (default firmware value, if firmware is changed then this needs to be changed to match the firmware)
:::*Parity: None
:::*Data bits: 8
:::*Stop bits: One
:::*Hold port open during the duration of the sequence execution: Checked

==Data Connections==
The Simple Renard RGB+W should be connected to a PC and can be driven by the standard Renard Plugin in Vixen. 
J1 is the data input to the Simple Renard RGB+W 
J2 is the data output from the Simple Renard RGB+W 
==Outputs==
J3 is Output channels 1-4 
J4 is Output channels 5-8 
J5 is Output channels 9-12 
J6 is Output channels 13-16 
J7 is Output channels 17-20 
J8 is Output channels 21-24 
J9 is Output channels 25-28 
J10 is Output channels 29-32 

RJ45 output jacks are wired as follows:
Pin 1 - V+
Pin 2 - First Channel Output
Pin 3 - V+
Pin 4 - Second Channel Output
Pin 5 - V+
Pin 6 - Third Channel Output
Pin 7 - V+
Pin 8 - Fourth Channel Output
The outputs are switched to Ground by the transistors controlled by the PIC. 

==Power Connections==
'''Warning...The Simple Renard RGB+W does not have an on-board fuse. You must use an external/inline fuse holder with a 7A fuse for each of the two power inputs for safety.'''

TB1 (V+1) supplies power to Outputs 1-16 and also supplies power to the Voltage regulator to power the on board circuits. 
TB2 (V+2) supplies power to Outputs 17-32.

=Firmware=
The Simple Renard RGB+W makes use of a different PIC then the usual PIC found in most Renard devices. '''The Simple Renard RGB+W does not use the default Renard firm. You must make use of the special firmware listed below to program your Simple Renard RGB+W.''' The Simple Renard RGB+W firmware only runs Renard protocol. A DMX version is currently being tested and should be available in May 2012.

The Simple Renard RB+W has two versions of the software available.
#There is one version of the software that makes use of the full 32 channel for RGBW use.
#There is also a second version of the software that only makes use of 24 channels for RGB use.You must choose the operating mode for the 24 channel firmware. There are two choices:
##Drop the fourth channel on each RJ45 jack for generic RGB layout.
##Drop the third channel on each RJ45 jack for use with RGB [http://www.seasonalentertainmentllc.com/rainbowfloodlight.htm Rainbow Floods].
'''Unlike typical Renard firmware, you must make changes to the .inc file, not the .asm file to adjust the operating parameters.'''

#You must modify the firmware in the .inc file to match the correct baud rate of your data network. The Simple Renard RGB+W runs at 57.6k or 115k baud rate. The default baud rate is 57.6K.
#You must modify the firmware in the .inc file if you want to use a different start address for the device. The default address is 0. You can find more info [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=Renard_Start_Address_Configuration_Guide here] on Start Address Configurations.

===Downloads===
Simple Renard RGB+W Firmware (32 channels) [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/dynamics/showentry.php?e=176&catid=6.htm RGB+W]

Simple Renard RGB Firmware (24 Channels) [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/dynamics/showentry.php?e=177&catid=6.htm RGB]

=Schematic=
[[File:SR_RGB%2BW_sch.pdf]]

=PCB=

[[File:SR_RGB+W.jpg|300px]] 

PCBs are available from [http://n7xg.net/diycprojects.html N7XG (Dean)]
or kits are available at [http://www.diyledexpress.com/ diyledexpress]

=Design Options=
#The two banks of channels, 1-16 and 17-32 can be configured to operate at different dc voltage levels by following the instructions [[Simple_Renard_RGB%2BW#Power_Requirements|above]].
# The Simple Renard RGB+W can be configured via firmware to use either a full 32 channels for RG+W use or 24 channels for RGB use.
#The Simple Renard RGB+W can be directly connected to a REN-W board via the JP2 header.

=Other Information=
TBD

==Simple Renard RGB+W Discussion Threads==
[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?15990-Simple-Renard-PCB-s-(Interest-Only) Interest thread] 
[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?15394-Simple-Renard-RGB-W&highlight=simple+renard Thread 1] 

==FAQ==
TBD 

[[Category:DIYC Controllers]]
[[Category:DIYC Index]]

Vastelec FM02

2013-11-05T22:17:02Z

Jrd: /* Where can I get one of these wonderful FM transmitters ? */

==The FM Transmitter with DIY possibilities ==
[[Image:FM02_beauty_shot.jpg|FM-02]]
 
[[Image:Fm02_beauty_shot_2.jpg|thumb|right|click on the picture for a larger version]]
[[Image:Fm02_beauty_shot_3.jpg|thumb|right|click on the picture for a larger version]]

The FM02 is a two board FM transmitter. It accepts a stereo audio source and outputs a stereo FM broadcast signal on the frequency shown on the LED display. It comes just as shown in the picture above.

It is rated at 30mw (that's milli-watts) of transmission power. For most Christmas DIYers this is a nearly perfect amount of power. It will transmit a clear signal for about 2 blocks or 1/4 mile. Why is this good? Because it is illegal in the USA to transmit other then very low amounts of FM radiation without an FCC license.

Skip to this section for more details: [[http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=Vastelec_FM02#Why_you_should_care_about_the_power_of_your_transmitter FCC Rules]]




The FM02 is not a complete unit ready for use.
Instead, it bridges the gap between an out-of-the-box solution, and a build-your-own unit that starts with a bare PCB and a bag of parts.

The FM02 is very small, but packs in a nice set of features. 
Key to these is the use of PLL (Phase Locked Loop) technology. PLL keeps the transmitter locked into the designated transmitting frequency without it drifting up or down. This frequency drift WILL occur on other FM transmitters without PLL as the temperature around the unit goes up or down.

The second key feature is the fact that the transmitting frequency is maintained even after power is turned off and back on.


The FM02 is a very sophisticated assembly. Building a unit of this capability and size would be nearly impossible for most DIY'ers.

So, to create a usable FM transmitter, the FM02 needs some help. The builder of the transmitter will take the FM02 and use it as the corner stone of a complete transmitter.

You will need the following items added to your FM02:
- Power. For details, see the POWER section below. 100ma is enough current.
- An Antenna. Never power your unit without an antenna.
- A mounting enclosure. You will need to mount the FM02 boards somewhere safe and dry.
- Connection to a stereo Audio Source. The FM02 has a 3.5mm audio jack.

== About VAST Electronics & Product Warranty==
[http://www.vastelec.com/ Vendor's Website]

[http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/images/f/f7/FM-Transmitter.pdf Data Sheet]

VAST warranties the FM02 for two years. The trick with this warranty is that it requires the product to be returned for repair to VAST in China. ''IF'' you can catch a group buy in progress on doityourselfchristmas.com, you can also request a replacement when that order is placed with VAST.

You can also receive warranty service from the units purchased directly from WLC ventures.

==Pictures of FM02's in enclosures==

Each FM02 installation is unique !

A gallery of pictures and 'how to build notes' showing various FM02 installations is available.

Click Here to see many FM02 installations: [[FM02_Gallery]]

== Power Requirements ==
[[Image:SURE_lm317.jpg|thumb|right|click on the picture for a larger version]]

''Do NOT power it up without an antenna.'' You don't need to have your 'real' antenna ready for this. You can put an sma-to-BNC adapter on and then stick a 12" piece of wire into the center of the BNC connector. This will dissipate the RF energy just fine. Just be sure you don't enlarge the hole inside the BNC.


''DO NOT apply anything GREATER then REGULATED 9V-16V DC to your unit. 12V DC is the ideal voltage to shoot for.'' If you aren't sure, then ask for help in the forums. Use a meter to check the voltage first. If all you have is a wall-wart that is labeled 12V, then that is most likely NOT regulated. A simple test of the output voltage with a meter will tell the tale.
I use one of the voltage regulators from Sure Electronics with my unit (Part number:PS-SP12113). These are about $5 online.

While the unit will 'run' on the voltages noted above, '''you should try to run it on 12V.'''
If you operate the unit at a reduced voltage, this only drops the mean voltage feeding the chip and thus drops the chips ability to function correctly. By turning down the operating voltage, (that is one way to reduce that hissing pilot level), but your also reducing the correct operating voltage for not just the FM chip, but the microprocessor, the PLL, the display, the final RF amp, the whole thing, not to mention reduced range and added distortions in the audio paths within the TX and FM chip itself.

A good example of this is taking a portable battery operated radio and put a weak battery in it and hear how distorted and low volume the audio is compared to a fresh correct voltage battery.

You need very little power for an FM02. A power supply rated at only 100ma is sufficient.


When you connect power to the FM02 it is '''VERY''' important that you get your positive(+) and your negative(-) correct.

'''If you hook up the power incorrectly, you can easily damage/ruin the unit.'''


== Do you have a HUM ? ==

Many folks will experience some ''HUM'' in the transmitted audio. This is normal. The good news is that you should be able to eliminate this hum with the use of a ''Ferrite Bead.''

(See ''Audio'' Section below for poor audio quality problems)


(See the ''Ways to improve the sound quality for Advanced Users'' Section below if you hear a 'shhhhhhhhing' sound)


If you look at the tech that is already in your house, you will see these beads on lots of things. They are in power cords, and even ethernet cables. I get mine for free this way. I just cut them out of these cords.
If you work in an office, you can usually go to the cube of the LAN/Networking guys and ask them for an excess power cord with one of these 'bumps' in the cord. They usually have dozens of extras laying around.

As far as size, you want to be able to wrap the wire through the hole and around the perimeter 3 times for maximum effect. You also need to wrap it tightly and secure it in place with a nylon tie wrap. So, it depends on the size of the wire that comes out of your wall wart, you need to have a diameter that can fit three wraps of the wire and the tie.

If you use a Wall Wart for power, you absolutely need a ferrite bead on the power cord coming out of the wall wart.

It is also a good idea to put a bead on the audio cable coming out of the PC.

The beads should be placed on the FM02 end of the cable.

Sometimes, it helps to put a ferrite bead on the audio cable between the PC and transmitter.

'''NOTE''': it never hurts to put one or more ferrite beads on your cables. They may or may not eliminate your ''HUM'', but they never make it worse.

Some Beads split in half, some don't !
[[Image:Ferrite_1.jpg|left|A Split Ferrite bead]]
[[Image:Ferrite_2.jpg|right|A multi wrap Ferrite bead]]

There are some good pictures in the wiki-pedia-:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ferrite_bead

== Audio ==
[[Image:3.5mm_stereo_plug.jpg|right|thumb|3.5mm stereo plug]]

The FM02 has a standard 3.5mm stereo jack for the wire that is carrying your audio signal.

There is one key point about the audio.
It works best with a ''line level'' audio input.
The ''Audio Out'' jack on a PC is NOT ''line level''.
Line Level is a very low volume level signal.
The Volume level on your PC needs to be set very low, barely audible.
If you ''overdrive'' the audio signal, it will result in a FM transmission that will sound distorted.

.

== Schematic and PCB layout ==

[[Image:FM02_Schematic_small_pic.jpg|right|schematic]]

The schematic and PCB layout are documented in a .pdf file.

This document shows the electronic board schematic and the PCB layout for the main transmitter board.

What is not shown is the information for the 'Display' board of this two board set.





[[http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/images/1/1a/FM02_Schematic.pdf Click Here for the full Schematic & PCB layout File]].


== Detailed Board Dimensions ==

'''Outline of the 'display' board.'''

[[Image:VAST_FM-02_Display_Board_Dimensions.jpg |right|board dims]]



'''The second board has the same physical outline dimensions. It also lines up with the 4 corner mounting holes.'''



[[Image:Vast_transmitter_layout_component_board.jpg‎ |right|board dims 2]]






'''Here is a pdf file that contains a scale outline that will serve as a template for the display board. You would use this to create your own bezel if you want to dress-up your installation:''' [[http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/images/e/e2/FM02_cutout_layout.pdf Bezel Template]]

== Antenna ==

The FM02 has an antenna connection that will look a bit unusual to most folks.
It is known as an '''''SMA''''' type of connector. 
Reference: [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/SMA_connector Wiki entry for SMA connector]

It is important when attaching an antenna/converter/cable to this connector that you do not over-tighten it.
The outer part of this connector is a 'press-fit' part. It is possible to simply defeat the resistance of the press fit and cause this part of the connector to fall off! So, if you use a wrench, be very careful, the connector is rated for INCH Pounds of torque.

Most DIY'ers will want to convert this to the '''''BNC''''' type of connector because BNC components are easier to find.
The converter shown below will correctly hook to the FM02. SMA is the smaller gold colored part of the connector.

[[Image:FM02_sma_to_BNC_converter.jpg |center|smatobnc]]


''' You will need to buy or make an antenna. There are MANY different designs for antennas. A large number of DIYers have made a type of antenna known as a dipole. This is an easy to make antenna that will serve almost anyone's needs. Here is a link to a pdf with instructions to make your own:
[http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/images/a/a7/How_to_make_a_dipole_antenna.pdf How to Make a Dipole Antenna] 

'''More recently, DIYC member Jhinkle published a paper for an antenna design that is easier to build with very good transmission characteristics.''' 
Here is the link to a posting on the subject.
[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?20264-1-4-Wave-Verticle-Antenna-for-the-FM-02&p=205469#post205469 DIYC discussion thread] 
You can go directly to the excellent design and build paper at this link:
[http://www.joehinkle.com/DownLoad/Antenna%20Design%20for%20FM.pdf pdf paper for a ground plane antenna]

== What Frequency to Use ==

This is real simple, go to this website and find a frequency that is unused.
If there are no unused frequency's, then pick one that is not very powerful and
get your radio out and check it out. If you can't pick up any radio stations at your house, odds
are no one will complain when you start broadcasting on that frequency. 
NOTE: There are seasonal radio stations. A open frequency in June may be used in December. You should plan accordingly.

'''
http://www.radio-locator.com/ '''

== Where can I get one of these wonderful FM transmitters ? ==

These come up as group buys on the [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?18-Group-Buys DIYC forum] from time to time.

They are usually stocked at [http://www.radiant-holidays.com/ Radiant Holidays].(Was WLC Ventures)

They have also been seen for sale on eBay from seller: HLLY.

The may also be available at [http://www.diyledexpress.com/ diyledexpress]

== RDS hookup information ==

This section will grow over time.
For now, here is a picture of hooking the pira mini-RDS unit up to an FM02

The green spot on the PCB is the RDS data hookup point.

The red spot is a section of the PCB that was scrapped away revealing the copper.
This is used a a soldering point for the ground.

[[Image:FM02_RDS_connection.jpg |center|fm02rds]]

Another View of the GREEN RDS connection spot:
Notice, the insert showing the full schematic of the hookup.
Two capacitors are needed as noted. (220 picofarad and 22 picofarad)
The resistor can be any value within the range noted.

[[Image:FM02_RDS_picture_diagram.jpg |center|fm02rds]]

[[Image:RDS_hookup_diagram.jpg |center|hookupdetail]]

Pira Mini-RDS hookup diagram:

[[Image:Standard_RDS_Connection.jpg |center|minirdshookupdetail]]

'''Additional Modifications'''


This optional modification is noted on the pira mini-RDS datasheet, but not implemented on the mini-RDS board from pira:

You can add a status LED to the mini-RDS board between pin 1 and ground, with a 2.2k Ohm resistor.

It blinks +- once per second when on, and really fast / almost steady on when transmitting RDS data to the transmitter...

.

== Why you should care about the transmitting power of your transmitter (FCC regulations)==

It's real simple: Do not transmit on a channel that is already in use by a commercial entity that can be heard in your location.
The easiest way to do that is to not buy more transmitter then you need.

That is why the FM02 is such a good choice. Below is the official FCC (USA) verbiage discussing low power FM transmissions.

Did you know if you use an FM transmitter the FCC can inspect your transmitter at any time without a search warrant?!! It's true.
If the FCC finds you operating equipment that is in violation, you must give them your transmitter so they can destroy it ! If you don't, you will face a large fine.
Read through this FCC website discussing the use of an FM transmitter as an 'unlicensed' operator.
Click here: [http://transition.fcc.gov/eb/otherinfo/inspect.html FCC information for unlicensed operators]

''"'''FCC REGULATIONS FOR THE NON LICENSED OPERATION OR RADIO BROADCASTING'''"

PART15:

Unlicensed operation on the AM and FM radio broadcast bands is permitted for some extremely low powered devices covered under Part 15 of the FCC's rules. On FM frequencies, these devices are limited to an effective service range of approximately 200 feet (61 meters). See 47 CFR (Code of Federal Regulations) Section 15.239, and the July 24, 1991 Public Notice. On the AM broadcast band, these devices are limited to an effective service range of approximately 200 feet (61 meters). See 47 CFR Sections 15.207, 15.209, 15.219, and 15.221. These devices must accept any interference caused by any other operation, which may further limit the effective service range. For more information on Part 15 devices, please see OET Bulletin No. 63 ("Understanding the FCC Regulations for Low-Power, Non-Licensed Transmitters").''

The good folks at RAMSEY have even more detail on their website at: [http://www.ramseyelectronics.com/resource/default.asp?page=fcc FCC rules information regarding transmitter strength]

== Ways to improve the sound quality for Advanced Users ==

'''Please note: This should be considered an advanced modification. There are hundreds of FM02 in use by the DIYC community and the vast majority use them without this modification.'''

Some folks want to create the best possible quality sound from their transmitters.
It is possible to hear a small 'shhhhhhhhh-ing' sound in the background of the transmitted sound.

The "shhhhh" issue is not a power supply problem, or audio source problem. The problem is the 19Khz pilot level on the BH1415 chip.

I recommend everyone download the BH1415 data sheet and look at the chip's block diagram and pin layout in order to follow along in solving this "shhhhh" problem.

Pin 19 is the 19Khz pilot tone level. By default, this pin is at a high capacitance state when left open. This pin adjusts the 19Khz pilot level. When it is left unconnected, the pilot level is 30+ percent above the standard 10 percent of modulating the carrier. If the pin is connected to a surface chip cap, this cap may be open or has changed value thus the 19Khz level is still too high.

In order to correct this, a proper modulation monitor or O-scope capable of 100Mhz or more will be needed to adjust properly.

The best capacitor value I have found that brings the 19Khz pilot level down to its standard 10 percent level is a 220pF. The pilot rides at around 11.3 percent. A far cry from the 30+ percent.

Connect the capacitor between Pin 19 of the BH1415 chip and ground.

[[Image:BH1415_block_diagram.jpg |center|fm02block]]

Do not run your FM02 unit at a reduced voltage to correct this shhhhhhing. This only drops the mean voltage feeding the chip and thus drops the chips ability to function correctly. By turning down the operating voltage, that is one way to reduce that hissing pilot level, but your also reducing the correct operating voltage for not just the FM chip, but the microprocessor, the PLL, the display, the final RF amp, the whole thing, not to mention reduced range and added distortions in the audio paths within the TX and FM chip itself.

A good example of this is taking a portable battery operated radio and put a weak battery in it and hear how distorted and low volume the audio is compared to a fresh correct voltage battery. The same happens to the FM02 when power is reduced to try to solve the hissing. It is not solving it at all, it is merely "covering it up" but it is still there and will always be there until the pilot level is correctly adjusted.

The reason why some transmitters using the BH1415 chip have the hissing is because the pilot is left to run wild so that at further distances the stereo transmission will still be received at those greater distances than it would be when the pilot is adjusted to standard. So moral here is either hassy hissy stereo at a distance, or excellent clean smooth sounding stereo audio within the intended range of these low power devices. I would go with the latter because all that hissing over driven pilot level is also decreasing your carrier power and reducing your range anyway.

'''Specifics about the Modification'''

I used a plain ol ceramic disc cap, clipped the leads so they would be short but long enough to allow folding of the capacitor on its side so it rests on the board.

Now on some designs and board layouts, Pin 19 has solder on it, it is soldered to the foil pad on the board, and nothing else. Others have a chip capacitor from Pin 19 to ground, and a few of those have too high a value of capacitor for the proper pilot level.

Solder one lead of the cap to Pin 19 at it's very end to avoid over-heating the pin. Then solder the other end of the capacitor to a nearby ground on the board. If necessary you can run a short wire for the ground connection to the 220pf capacitor.

Use an iron no greater than a 15 watt or over-heating of the pin will result and possibly damage the FM chip.

Also note that the lead of the capacitor that connects to Pin 19 MUST be short as possible. If this lead is too long, it will pick up and inject clock pulse noise onto the pilot carrier. Secure the capacitor with a dab of silicone or putty.

 
[[Category:DIYC Index]]

Super Strip

2013-09-11T01:31:17Z

Jrd:

== Kostyun RGB+W LED Super Strip Flood ==

* NOTE - THIS PAGE IS A WORK IN-PROGRESS - IT IS NOT COMPLETE YET *

===What is the Super Strip Flood?===
The Super Strip was designed and sold by Frank Kostyun. Now it is sold by [http://radiant-holidays.com/radiant_holidays/index.php?main_page=advanced_search_result&search_in_description=1&keyword=super+strips&x=-1254&y=-77 Radiant Holidays] as a pack of three strips. The Super Strip Flood is a 3/4" x 18" long strip that can hold up to eighteen RGB SuperFlux LEDs and an additional eighteen White SuperFlux LEDs (hence the RGB'''+W''' moniker). Here is a [[Media:SuperStripSchematic.pdf|schematic]] of the strip.

[[File:SuperStrip-1.png|center|thumb|upright=7.5]]

Typically the RGB LEDs are common anode to support typical usage with DCSSRs or other DC controllers that implement switched grounds and common positive voltage. The circuitry has each LED/color with a series current limiting resistor and all LED/resistors are in parallel for each color. While this increases the number of resistors required, it does allow operation with just 5v as well as allowing you to partially populate the strip. The strips are usually run with either 5v or 12v as these are common DC power supply voltages. The use of 5v supplies allows smaller resistors (1/8W) to be used whereas the use of 12v supplies requires larger (1/4W) resistors.

===How to calculate the values of the limiting resistors using Ohm's Law===

'''When usng 5vdc:'''
 R = V / I or (5v - Vf) / .02
 The assumption is 20mA for the LEDs (this is what they are from the group buy)
 The assumption is a Vf of 2v for Red and 3.1v for Green, Blue and White

 Red - (5v - 2v) / .02 = 3v / .02 = 150 ohms
 '''150 ohms''' is a common value so the actual current is 3v / 150 = '''20mA'''
 P = V x I = 3 x 20mA = 60mW so a 1/8W will work fine - you can use Mouser 299-150-RC

 Green/Blue/White - (5v - 3.1v) / .02 = 1.9 / .02 = 95 ohms
 The next common value up is '''100 ohms''' so the actual current is 1.9v / 100 = '''19mA'''
 P = V x I = 1.9 x 19mA = 36mW so again you can use a 1/8W - you can use Mouser 299-100-RC

'''When using 12vdc:'''
 R = V / I or (12v - Vf) / .02
 The ssumption is 20mA for the LEDs (this is what they are from the group buy)
 The assumption is a Vf of 2v for Red and 3.1v for Green, Blue and White

 Red - (12v - 2v) / .02 = 10v / .02 = 500 ohms
 The next common value up is '''510 ohms''' so the actual current is 10v / 510 = '''19.6mA'''
 P = V x I = 10 x 19.6mA = 196mW so you must use 1/4W - you can use Mouser 291-510-RC

 Green/Blue/White - (12v - 3.1v) / .02 = 8.9 / .02 = 445 ohms
 The next common value up is '''470 ohms''' so the actual current is 8.9v / 470 = '''18.9mA'''
 P = V x I = 8.9 x 18.9mA = 168mW so again you need a 1/4W - you can use Mouser 291-470-RC

 If you fully populate the board you will require eighteen resistors for EACH color so in all you will need seventy-two resistors for each strip - - it's a lot of soldering! Use of 24v supplies is not recommended as you will need to switch to 1/2W resistors and it's very inefficient as the resistors will be dropping 21-22v of the 24v supplied. If you are using something other than 5v or 12v, just use the same formulas above to calculate the resistor values.

=== Using the Super Strip ===
The Super Strip can have an RJ45 installed at each end of the strip. The connections are identical for either end so it doesn't matter which side is plugged in. Note that if you are not planning to daisy-chain the strips, that you can get away with installing just one connector. A fully populated strip draws up to 360mA per color (18 LEDs x 20mA = 360mA) so it is not advised that you daisy-chain the strips since the current draw would be too much for Cat5 cabling.

 The pinout of the strip is as follows:
*Pin 1, 3, 5 and 7 are physically tied together and are typically connected to the +DC output of the power supply that is being used.
*Pin 2 drives the Red LED path
*Pin 4 drives the Green LED path
*Pin 6 drives the Blue LED path
*Pin 8 drives the White LED path

 '''NOTE - Regarding the RGB LEDs - the actual color lit may be different than the path color - it is important that you verify this BEFORE installing the LEDs and resistors on the strips.''' This is due to different manufacturers not using standardized pinouts for the colors used. The first group buy had the Green and Blue colors swapped while the latest group buy had the Red and Green swapped. You may want to monitor the forum closely to ensure which layout is correct.

 '''NOTE - Regarding the White LEDs - the silkscreen has always been incorrect for the White LED position - it is 180deg out from what they should be.''' Here again, you will want to monitor the forum to ensure there has not been a change to the layout but so far, this has always been the case. Note also, you can use any single color SuperFlux LED you want here that runs at 20mA. You could for example install UV (400nM) LEDs for Halloween use instead of White. You may need to recalculate the current limiting resistor and as always check the pinout with one LED first before installing an entire boards worth.

There are a variety of controllers that can be used to drive the Super Strips. Examples of these are the Ren24LV, a Ren64XC with DCSSRs and the [[Ren48LSDv3c|Ren48LSD]]. Note that the [[Ren48LSDv3c|Ren48LSD]] was designed specifically for the purpose of driving the Strips. The Ren24LV (also designed by Frank) has some limitations driving the strips so care must be taken when sequencing or the outputs can be overdriven which will damage the ULN2803 driver chip. The Ren64XC/DCSSR combination will work as well but it's a more expensive, larger and more cumbersome configuration to use but if you are driving other higher current DC devices, it can work fine.

[[Category:LED Projects]]
[[Category:DIYC Index]]

SPT Wire and Vampire Plugs

2013-05-14T05:11:57Z

Jrd: Fixed "teh" and added missing "the" below.

[[File:SPT-Wire.jpg|300px]] [[File:SPT-2-Male-Female.jpg|320px]] [[File:C7-C9-Vampire.jpg|240px]] 
=Disclaimers=
The standard disclaimers pertaining to the information contained on this wiki page are listed [[Disclaimers | here.]] 
'''THIS PAGE IS UNDER CONSTRUCTION AND IS NOT COMPLETE AND HAS NOT BEEN CHECKED FOR ERRORS YET!!''' 

=SPT Wire ( SPT-1 SPT-2 )=
[[File:SPT-Wire.jpg|200px]] 
*SPT stands for '''S'''tranded, '''P'''arallel, '''T'''hermoplastic wire. SPT is frequently known as Zip cord or Lamp Cord. '''SPT IS NOT SPEAKER WIRE OR LOW VOLTAGE LANDSCAPE WIRE!!''' SPT wire is rated for 300V or 600v, low voltage wire and speaker wire are not!!! 
*SPT is commonly used by Christmas lighting enthusiasts to create low cost custom length power cords utilizing Vampire Plugs and Sockets. SPT is commonly sold on spools of 250, 500 and 1000ft. SPT Wire comes in different wire gauges, 18awg is the most common. A common 18awg SPT-2 wire from one vendor has a rating of 10A. 
*SPT comes with different insulation thicknesses, the higher the number the thicker the insulation. SPT-2 has thicker insulation then SPT-1. The SPT rating is related to the thickness of the insulation that surrounds the copper wires. SPT-1 wire has an insulation thickness of .030″ and SPT-2 has insulation that is .045″ thick. 
*SPT wire is polarized and generally comes with two different wire textures on the wire pair to help identify the polarity when you hook it up. One wire is smooth, it is generally used for the Hot or Line wire. The other wire is usually ribbed, it is generally used for the neutral wire. 
*'''IMPORTANT: IT IS CRITICAL THAT YOU CONNECT THE CORRECT CORRECT TERMINAL TO THE CORRECT WIRE ON BOTH ENDS! ALL PLUGS AND SOCKETS ON THE WIRE SHOULD BE WIRED WITH THE NEUTRAL TERMINAL CONNECTED TO THE RIBBED WIRE AND THE HOT (LINE) WIRE CONNECTED TO THE SMOOTH WIRE.'''

=Vampire Plugs and Sockets=
Vampire plugs get their name from the insulation piercing teeth that they have. They are designed to be used on SPT wire and allow a fast and easy way to terminate a wire. Vampire Plugs come in different shapes and functions. They come in three basic colors, Black, Green and White. The common Male Plug and Female Socket made by Zing Ear are rated for 8A @ 125VAC. Confirm the ratings and wire size by reading the printing on the item or asking your vendor. 
'''IMPORTANT: IT IS CRITICAL THAT YOU USE THE CORRECT VAMPIRE PLUG OR SOCKET THAT MATCHES YOUR WIRE TYPE! PLUGS AND SOCKETS ARE MADE FOR SPECIFIC WIRES TYPES, THEY ARE NOT UNIVERSAL. SPT-1 SOCKETS AND PLUGS SHOULD NOT BE USED WITH SPT-2 WIRE AND SPT-2 SOCKETS AND PLUGS SHOULD NOT BE USED WITH SPT-1 WIRE.'''
==Male Plug==
Male plugs are designed to go on the end of a SPT wire of the correct matching size. Male plugs are polarized and it is important that you install the wire correctly to match the polarity of the wire and plug. The two vampire teeth are designed to each pierce one wire when they are installed. You should look at the plug to identify which tooth is which.
*#One plug blade is wider (and may be marked "White") this is the neutral blade. Generally it is attached to the ribbed wire on the SPT wire.
*#The narrower blade is hot (or Line) blade. It is generally attached to the smooth wire on the SPT wire. 
[[File:SPT-1-Male-Front.jpg|150px]] [[File:SPT-1-Male-Back.jpg|135px]] 
==Female Socket==
Female sockets are designed to go on the end of a SPT wire of the correct matching size. Female sockets are polarized and it is important that you install the wire correctly to match the polarity of the wire and plug. The two vampire teeth are designed to each pierce one wire when they are installed. You should look at the socket to identify which tooth is which.
*#One Socket hole is wider this is the neutral hole. Generally it is attached to the ribbed wire on the SPT wire.
*#The narrower socket hole is hot (or Line) hole. It is generally attached to the smooth wire on the SPT wire. 
[[File:SPT-1-Female-Front.jpg|200px]] [[File:SPT-1-Female-Back.jpg|160px]] 

==Female Inline Socket==
Female inline sockets are designed to go in the middle of a SPT wire of the correct matching size. They look similar to regular Female Sockets but the end is missing on both sides so the wire can go thru both sides. Some people[http://www.landolights.com/main/content/view/77/39/ 1], [http://www.johnsonschristmascorner.com/Cords.html 2] modify regular Female Sockets to make them Inline. Female sockets are polarized and it is important that you install the wire correctly to match the polarity of the wire and plug. The two vampire teeth are designed to each pierce one wire when they are installed. You should look at the socket to identify which tooth is which.
*#One Socket hole is wider this is the neutral hole. Generally it is attached to the ribbed wire on the SPT wire.
*#The narrower socket hole is hot (or Line) hole. It is generally attached to the smooth wire on the SPT wire. 
[[File:SPT-1-Female-Front.jpg|200px]] [[File:SPT-1-Female-Inline-Back.jpg|150px]] 

==C7 Socket and C9 Socket==
C7 or C9 sockets are designed to go in the middle of a SPT wire of the correct matching size. C7 or C9 sockets are polarized and it is important that you install the wire correctly to match the polarity of the wire and plug. The two vampire teeth are designed to each pierce one wire when they are installed. You should look at the socket to identify which tooth is which.
*#One vampire tooth will connect to the terminal on the side wall of the socket, this is the neutral terminal. Generally it is attached to the ribbed wire on the SPT wire.
*#One vampire tooth will connect to the bottom contact in the socket, this is the hot (or Line) terminal. It is generally attached to the smooth wire on the SPT wire. 
[[File:C7-C9-Vampire-Front.jpg|200px]] [[File:C7-C9-Vampire.jpg|200px]] [[File:C7-Vampire-Inside.jpg|135px]] 

==Fused Male/Female Plug==
In 2013 a [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?25980-Fused-Male-Plug-2013-Group-Buy-Round-1&p=263759#post263759 group buy] took place that offered a [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?25476-Interest-Thread-Fused-Male-Plug&p=262376#post262376 Fused Male/Female Plug] similar to what is found on traditional incandescent light strings. This new plug has built in fuses. These plugs do not have traditional Vampire teeth, but instead are attached to the wire by either crimping or soldering. They came in a Male/Female Plug with a 3A fuse and a Male Plug with a 5A fuse.

[[File:Double_3A_Fuse_Plug_(3).jpg|200px]] [[File:Double_3A_Fuse_Plug_(12).jpg|200px]] [[File:Single_5A_Fuse_Plug_(3).jpg|200px]]

=Installing Vampire Plugs / Sockets=
==Female Vampire==
*# Inspect socket for cracks, damage, bent teeth or "Evil Vampires" (both teeth on the same side). Confirm that the vampire is made for the wire type (SPT-1 or SPT-2) that you are using.
*#[[File:SPT-1-Female-1.jpg|200px]]
*#:Cut the SPT to the desired length. '''INSPECT THE END OF THE WIRE AND REMOVE ANY STRAY STRANDS OF WIRE PAST THE END OF THE INSULATION.''' Make a small cut to separate the ends of the wire slightly. Identify the neutral wire (usually ridged). '''IMPORTANT: IT IS CRITICAL THAT YOU CONNECT THE CORRECT CORRECT TERMINAL TO THE CORRECT WIRE ON BOTH ENDS! ALL PLUGS AND SOCKETS ON THE WIRE SHOULD BE WIRED WITH THE NEUTRAL TERMINAL CONNECTED TO THE RIBBED WIRE AND THE HOT (LINE) WIRE CONNECTED TO THE SMOOTH WIRE.''' 
*#[[File:SPT-1-Female-Front.jpg|200px]][[File:SPT-1-Female-Back.jpg|158px]]
*#:Identify the wider socket side (Neutral) and turn over socket to identify the correct tooth for the Neutral socket hole. 
*#[[File:SPT-1-Female-2.jpg|200px]] 
*#:With the Neutral Vampire tooth aligned to penetrate the Ribbed Neutral wire, insert the SPT into the hole at the end of the socket and gently press down so that the split wire ends are seated into the two pockets in the end of the socket. 
*#[[File:SPT-1-Female-3.jpg|200px]] 
*#:Firmly press the wire into the vampire teeth and seat the wire into the recess. Be careful to avoid pressing at an angle which may bend the vampire teeth over and not make a connection to the wire. 
*#[[File:SPT-1-Female-4.jpg|200px]] 
*#:Slide the back cover firmly onto the wire . Make sure that the sloped end slides on to the plug first. It may be helpful to use a Channel Lock Pliers to help seat the back cover firmly on. 
*#[[File:SPT-1-Female-5.jpg|200px]] 
*#:Inspect the assembled unit for cracks or poor connections. 

==Female Inline Vampire==
*#Inspect socket for cracks, damage, bent teeth or "Evil Vampires" (both teeth on the same side). Confirm that the vampire is made for the wire type (SPT-1 or SPT-2) that you are using.
*#[[File:SPT-1-Female-Front.jpg|200px]][[File:SPT-1-Female-Inline-Back.jpg|145px]] 
*#:Identify the wider socket side (Neutral) and turn over socket to identify the correct tooth for the Neutral socket hole. 
*#[[File:SPT-1-Female-Inline-2.jpg|200px]] 
*#:Identify the neutral wire (usually ridged). '''IMPORTANT: IT IS CRITICAL THAT YOU CONNECT THE CORRECT CORRECT TERMINAL TO THE CORRECT WIRE ON BOTH ENDS! ALL PLUGS AND SOCKETS ON THE WIRE SHOULD BE WIRED WITH THE NEUTRAL TERMINAL CONNECTED TO THE RIBBED WIRE AND THE HOT (LINE) WIRE CONNECTED TO THE SMOOTH WIRE.''' With the Neutral Vampire tooth aligned to penetrate the Ribbed Neutral wire,firmly press the wire into the vampire teeth and seat the wire into the recess. Be careful to avoid pressing at an angle which may bend the vampire teeth over and not make a connection to the wire. 
*#[[File:SPT-1-Female-Inline-3.jpg|200px]] 
*#:Slide the back cover firmly onto the wire . Make sure that the sloped end slides on to the plug first. It may be helpful to use a Channel Lock Pliers to help seat the back cover firmly on. 
*#[[File:SPT-1-Female-Inline-4.jpg|200px]] 
*#:Inspect the assembled unit for cracks or poor connections. 

==Male Vampire==
*# Inspect Plug for cracks, damage, bent teeth or "Evil Vampires" (both teeth on the same side). Confirm that the vampire is made for the wire type (SPT-1 or SPT-2) that you are using.
*#[[File:SPT-1-Female-1.jpg|200px]] 
*#:Cut the SPT to the desired length. '''INSPECT THE END OF THE WIRE AND REMOVE ANY STRAY STRANDS OF WIRE PAST THE END OF THE INSULATION.''' Make a small cut to separate the ends of the wire slightly. Identify the neutral wire (usually ridged). '''IMPORTANT: IT IS CRITICAL THAT YOU CONNECT THE CORRECT CORRECT TERMINAL TO THE CORRECT WIRE ON BOTH ENDS! ALL PLUGS AND SOCKETS ON THE WIRE SHOULD BE WIRED WITH THE NEUTRAL TERMINAL CONNECTED TO THE RIBBED WIRE AND THE HOT (LINE) WIRE CONNECTED TO THE SMOOTH WIRE.''' 
*#[[File:SPT-1-Male-Front.jpg|200px]][[File:SPT-1-Male-Back.jpg|175px]] 
*#:Identify the wider blade side (Neutral) and turn over plug to identify the correct tooth for the Neutral blade. 
*#[[File:SPT-1-Male-1.jpg|200px]] 
*#:With the Neutral Vampire tooth aligned to penetrate the Ribbed Neutral wire, insert the SPT into the hole at the end of the plug and gently press down so that the split wire ends are seated into the two pockets in the end of the plug. 
*#[[File:SPT-1-Male-2.jpg|200px]] 
*#:Firmly press the wire into the vampire teeth and seat the wire into the recess. Be careful to avoid pressing at an angle which may bend the vampire teeth over and not make a connection to the wire. 
*#[[File:SPT-1-Male-3.jpg|200px]] 
*#:Slide the back cover firmly onto the wire . Make sure that the sloped end slides on to the plug first. It may be helpful to use a Channel Lock Pliers to help seat the back cover firmly on. 
*#[[File:SPT-1-Male-4.jpg|200px]] 
*#:Inspect the assembled unit for cracks or poor connections. 

==C7 or C9 Vampire==
*#[[File:C7-C9-Vampire-Front.jpg|200px]] 
*#:Inspect socket for cracks, damage, bent teeth or "Evil Vampires" (both teeth on the same side). Confirm that the vampire is made for the wire type (SPT-1 or SPT-2) that you are using. 
*#[[File:C7-C9-Vampire.jpg|200px]][[File:C7-Vampire-Inside.jpg|132px]] 
#:Identify the Neutral socket terminal (on side wall, not bottom of socket hole) and turn over socket to identify the correct tooth for the Neutral socket terminal. 
*#[[File:C7-Vampire-2.jpg|200px]] 
*#:Identify the neutral wire (usually ridged). '''IMPORTANT: IT IS CRITICAL THAT YOU CONNECT THE CORRECT CORRECT TERMINAL TO THE CORRECT WIRE ON BOTH ENDS! ALL PLUGS AND SOCKETS ON THE WIRE SHOULD BE WIRED WITH THE NEUTRAL TERMINAL CONNECTED TO THE RIBBED WIRE AND THE HOT (LINE) WIRE CONNECTED TO THE SMOOTH WIRE.''' With the Neutral Vampire tooth aligned to penetrate the Ribbed Neutral wire,firmly press the wire into the vampire teeth and seat the wire into the recess. Be careful to avoid pressing at an angle which may bend the vampire teeth over and not make a connection to the wire. 
*#[[File:C7-Vampire-3.jpg|200px]] 
*#:The back cap is keyed to fit only one way, there is a wider tab and a narrower tab. Firmly press the back cap onto the wire. It may be helpful to use a Channel Lock Pliers to help seat the back cover firmly on. Be careful, the sockets are fragile and too much pressure may crack them. 
*#[[File:C7-Vampire-4.jpg|200px]] 
*#:Inspect the assembled unit for cracks or poor connections. 

=Vendors=
These are selected wire and connectors from the various vendors with a mix of properties. Visit their sites for the latest information and to see their entire product catalog.

SPT Wire,Vampire Sockets and Plugs are frequently available at preseason discounts during January and February from most vendors.

'''PLEASE CONFIRM ALL DETAILS WITH VENDOR BEFORE ORDERING!! ALL OF THIS DATA IS SUBJECT TO CONSTANT CHANGE AND MAY BE WRONG!!!'''

Pricing is in US $. Pricing is as of 02-11-13.

'''PRICING DOES NOT INCLUDE SHIPPING, TAXES OR IMPORT DUTIES!'''

Shipping from overseas can be expensive, check with your vendor. '''WIRE IS HEAVY'''

==SPT Wire==
===SPT-1===
{| class="wikitable"
|-
| Vendor || Wire || Length || Link || Price || Price per ft || Note
|-
| [http://store.3glightingcreations.com 3G Light Creations] || SPT1 ||1000ft || [http://store.3glightingcreations.com/products/1000ft-SPT1-wire.html link] || $159.95 || $0.16 || Green
|-
| || || || || || ||
|-
| [http://www.christmaslightshow.com ChristmasLightShow] || SPT1 ||250ft || [http://www.christmaslightshow.com/spt-1-18awg-wire-250-feet-10-amps-black.html link] || $34.95 || $0.14 || Green 18AWG
|-
| [http://www.christmaslightshow.com ChristmasLightShow] || SPT1 ||500ft || [http://www.christmaslightshow.com/spt-1-18awg-wire-500-feet-10-amps-black.html link] || $69.95 || $0.14 || Green 18AWG
|-
| [http://www.christmaslightshow.com ChristmasLightShow] || SPT1 ||1000ft || [http://www.christmaslightshow.com/SPT-1-18AWG-Wire-1000-feet.html link] || $132.95 || $0.13 || Green 18AWG
|-
| || || || || || ||
|-
| [http://www.creativedisplays.com Creative Displays] || SPT1 ||1000ft || [http://www.creativedisplays.com/product/310/WEATHER-X-ZIP-CORD/ link] || $200 || $0.20 || Green, White
|-
| || || || || || ||
|-
| [http://www.grandbrass.com Grand Brass] || SPT1 ||250ft || [http://www.grandbrass.com/ShowItem.cfm?ItemNumber=WI18SPT1BL link] || $40 || $0.16 || Black, 18AWG
|-
| || || || || || ||
|-
| [http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/catalog/servlet/Search?keyword=lamp%20wire Home Depot] || SPT1 ||250ft || [http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-203387026/h_d2/ProductDisplay?keyword=49910385 link] || $42.70 || $0.17 || Black, 18AWG
|-
| || || || || || ||
|-
| [http://www.noveltylights.com Novelty Lights] || SPT1 ||1000ft || [http://www.noveltylights.com/SPT-1-Green-Wire-1000-Zip-Wire.html link] || $165 || $0.17 || Green 18AWG
|-
| || || || || || ||
|-
| [http://www.skycraftsurplus.com Skycraft Surplus] || SPT1 ||250ft || [http://www.skycraftsurplus.com/lampcord.aspx link] || $45 || $0.18 || Black 18AWG
|-
| || || || || || ||
|-
| [http://www.thechristmaslightoutlet.com/ The Christmas Light Outlet] || SPT1 ||1000ft || [http://www.thechristmaslightoutlet.com/collections/spt1-bulk-wire/products/spt1-wire-lamp-cord-1000-12-green-wire link] || $159.95 || $0.16 || Green 18AWG
|-
| || || || || || ||
|-
| [http://www.wlcventures.com WLCVentures] || SPT1 ||250ft || [http://wlcventures.com/zencart/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=7&products_id=131 link] || $42.99 || $0.17 || Green 18AWG
|-
| [http://www.wlcventures.com WLCVentures] || SPT1 ||1000ft || [http://wlcventures.com/zencart/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=7&products_id=130 link] || $114.99 || $0.11 || Green 18AWG
|-
|}

===SPT-2===
{| class="wikitable"
|-
| Vendor || Wire || Length || Link || Price || Price per ft || Note
|-
| [http://store.3glightingcreations.com 3G Light Creations] || SPT2 ||1000ft || [http://store.3glightingcreations.com/1000ft-spt2-wire/ link] || $169.95 || $0.17 || Green
|-
| || || || || || ||
|-
| [http://www.christmaslightshow.com ChristmasLightShow] || SPT2 ||250ft || [http://www.christmaslightshow.com/spt-2-18awg-wire-250-feet-10-amps-black.html link] || $41.95 || $0.17 || Black 18AWG
|-
| [http://www.christmaslightshow.com ChristmasLightShow] || SPT2 ||500ft || [http://www.christmaslightshow.com/spt-2-18awg-wire-500-feet-black.html link] || $79.95 || $0.16 || Green 18AWG
|-
| [http://www.christmaslightshow.com ChristmasLightShow] || SPT2 ||1000ft || [http://www.christmaslightshow.com/SPT-2-18AWG-Wire-1000-feet.html link] || $144.95 || $0.15 || Green 18AWG
|-
| || || || || || ||
|-
| [http://www.grandbrass.com Grand Brass] || SPT2 ||250ft || [http://www.grandbrass.com/ShowItem.cfm?ItemNumber=WI18SPT2BL link] || $55 || $0.22 || Black 18AWG
|-
| || || || || || ||
|-
| [http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/catalog/servlet/Search?keyword=lamp%20wire Home Depot] || SPT2 ||250ft || [http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-202206453/h_d2/ProductDisplay?keyword=252-1001G3 link] || $45.26 || $0.18 || Black 18AWG
|-
| || || || || || ||
|-
| [http://www.noveltylights.com Novelty Lights] || SPT2 ||1000ft || [http://www.noveltylights.com/SPT2-Green-Zip-Wire-1000.html link] || $180 || $0.18 || Green 18AWG
|-
| || || || || || ||
|-
| [http://www.wlcventures.com WLCVentures] || SPT2 ||250ft || [http://wlcventures.com/zencart/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=7&products_id=129 link] || $44.99 || $0.18 || Green 18AWG
|-
| [http://www.wlcventures.com WLCVentures] || SPT2 ||1000ft || [http://wlcventures.com/zencart/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=7&products_id=69 link] || $130 || $0.13 || Green 18AWG
|-
|}

==Vampire Plugs and Sockets==
===SPT-1===
{| class="wikitable"
|-
| Vendor || Size || Type || Link || Price || Price per Unit|| Note
|-
| '''SPT-1 Male Plug''' || || || || || ||
|-
| [http://www.actionlighting.com Action Lighting] || SPT-1 || Male || [http://www.actionlighting.com/spt-1-spt-2-vampire-zip-cord-receptacle-green-pack-12-plugs-100sptplug/ link] || $5.93 || $0.49 || Package of 12 Green
|-
| [http://www.actionlighting.com Action Lighting] || SPT-1 || Male || [http://www.actionlighting.com/spt-1-spt-2-vampire-zip-cord-receptacle-white-pack-12-plugs/ link] || $5.93 || $0.49 || Package of 12 White
|-
| [http://store.3glightingcreations.com 3G Light Creations] || SPT-1 || Male || [http://store.3glightingcreations.com/spt1-male-plugs-green/ link] || $6.95 || $0.70 || Package of 10 Green
|-
| [http://store.3glightingcreations.com 3G Light Creations] || SPT-1 || Male || [http://store.3glightingcreations.com/spt1-male-plugs-white/ link] || $6.95 || $0.70 || Package of 10 White
|-
| [http://www.christmaslightshow.com ChristmasLightShow] || SPT-1 || Male || [http://www.christmaslightshow.com/spt1-male-plug-10-in-a-pack-green.html link] || $6.00 || $0.60 || Package of 10 Green
|-
| [http://www.creativedisplays.com Creative Displays] || SPT-1 ||Male || [http://www.creativedisplays.com/product/806/ELECTRICAL-PLUGS-FOR-ZIP-CORD-WIRE/ link] || $6.00 || $0.60 || Package of 10 (White, Black or Green)
|-
| [http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/catalog/servlet/Search?keyword=slide%20on%20plug Home Depot (online)] || SPT-1 || Male || [http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-100652709/h_d2/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&keyword=14-330 link] || $ || $ || Only available in season Green
|-
| [http://store.ledgenlighting.com/ LEDGenLighting] || SPT-1 || Male || [http://store.ledgenlighting.com/Electrical-Plug-male-green-slide-on-SPT-1-_p_6697.html link] || $19.00 || $0.38 || Package of 50 Green
|-
| [http://store.ledgenlighting.com/ LEDGenLighting] || SPT-1 || Male || [http://store.ledgenlighting.com/Electrical-Plug-male-white-slide-on-SPT-1-_p_6699.html link] || $19.00 || $0.38 || Package of 50 White
|-
| [http://noveltylights.com Novelty Lights] || SPT-1 || Male || [http://www.noveltylights.com/SPT-1-Male-Plugs-Green.html link] || $0.85 || $0.85 || Package of 1 Green (Discount for quantity 50-149 $0.65, 150+ $0.50)
|-
| [http://noveltylights.com Novelty Lights] || SPT-1 || Male || [http://www.noveltylights.com/SPT-1-Male-Vampire-Plugs-White.html link] || $0.85 || $0.85 || Package of 1 White (Discount for quantity 50-149 $0.65, 150+ $0.50)
|-
| [http://www.wlcventures.com WLCVentures] || SPT-1 || Male || [http://wlcventures.com/zencart/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=7&products_id=128 link] || $25.00 || $0.50 || Package of 50 Green
|-
| '''SPT-1 Female Socket''' || || || || || ||
|-
| [http://www.actionlighting.com Action Lighting] || SPT-1 || Female || [http://www.actionlighting.com/spt-1-spt-2-vampire-zip-cord-receptacle-green-pack-12-plugs-100sptplug/ link] || $5.93 || $0.49 || Package of 12 Green
|-
| [http://www.actionlighting.com Action Lighting] || SPT-1 || Female || [http://www.actionlighting.com/spt-1-spt-2-vampire-zip-cord-receptacle-white-pack-12-plugs/ link] || $5.93 || $0.49 || Package of 12 White
|-
| [http://store.3glightingcreations.com 3G Light Creations] || SPT-1 || Female || [http://store.3glightingcreations.com/spt1-female-plugs-green/ link] || $6.95 || $0.70 || Package of 10 Green
|-
| [http://store.3glightingcreations.com 3G Light Creations] || SPT-1 || Female || [http://store.3glightingcreations.com/spt1-female-plugs-white/ link] || $6.95 || $0.70 || Package of 10 White
|-
| [http://www.christmaslightshow.com ChristmasLightShow] || SPT-1 || Female || [http://www.christmaslightshow.com/spt1-female-plug-10-in-a-pack-green.html link] || $6.00 || $0.60 || Package of 10 Green
|-
| [http://www.creativedisplays.com Creative Displays] || SPT-1 ||Female || [http://www.creativedisplays.com/product/806/ELECTRICAL-PLUGS-FOR-ZIP-CORD-WIRE/ link] || $6.00 || $0.60 || Package of 10 (White, Black or Green)
|-
| [http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/catalog/servlet/Search?keyword=slide%20on%20plug Home Depot (online)] || SPT-1 || Female || [http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-100652709/h_d2/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&keyword=14-331 link] || $ || $ || Only available in season Green
|-
| [http://store.ledgenlighting.com/ LEDGenLighting] || SPT-1 || Female || [http://store.ledgenlighting.com/Electrical-Receptacle-female-green-slide-on-SPT-1-_p_6694.html link] || $20.00 || $0.40 || Package of 50 Green
|-
| [http://store.ledgenlighting.com/ LEDGenLighting] || SPT-1 || Female || [http://store.ledgenlighting.com/Electrical-Receptacle-female-white-slide-on-SPT-1-_p_6696.html link] || $20.00 || $0.40 || Package of 50 White
|-
| [http://noveltylights.com Novelty Lights] || SPT-1 || Female || [http://www.noveltylights.com/SPT-1-Female-Sockets-Green.html link] || $0.85 || $0.85 || Package of 1 Green (Discount for quantity 50-149 $0.65, 150+ $0.50)
|-
| [http://noveltylights.com Novelty Lights] || SPT-1 || Female || [http://www.noveltylights.com/SPT-1-Female-Sockets-White.html link] || $0.85 || $0.85 || Package of 1 White (Discount for quantity 50-149 $0.65, 150+ $0.50)
|-
| [http://www.wlcventures.com WLCVentures] || SPT-1 || Female || [http://wlcventures.com/zencart/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=7&products_id=126 link] || $25.00 || $0.50 || Package of 50 Green
|-
| '''SPT-1 Female Inline Socket''' || || || || || ||
|-
| [http://www.creativedisplays.com Creative Displays] || SPT-1 ||Female Inline || [http://www.creativedisplays.com/product/806/ELECTRICAL-PLUGS-FOR-ZIP-CORD-WIRE/ link] || $6.00 || $0.60 || Package of 10 (White, Black or Green)
|-
| [http://www.wlcventures.com WLCVentures] || SPT-1 || Female Inline || [http://wlcventures.com/zencart/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=7&products_id=127 link] || $25.00 || $0.50 || Package of 50 Green
|-
| '''SPT-1 C7 Socket''' || || || || || ||
|-
| [http://www.actionlighting.com Action Lighting] || SPT-1 || C7 || [http://www.actionlighting.com/c7-replacement-christmas-socket-pack-100pc-bag-100slac7skt/ link] || $11.41 || $0.11 || Package of 100 (Green or White)
|-
| [http://www.christmaslightshow.com ChristmasLightShow] || SPT-1 || C7 || [http://www.christmaslightshow.com/SPT1-C7-Socket-10-Pack.html link] || $2.95 || $0.30 || Package of 10 Green
|-
| [http://www.creativedisplays.com Creative Displays] || SPT-1 ||C7 || [http://www.creativedisplays.com/product/806/ELECTRICAL-PLUGS-FOR-ZIP-CORD-WIRE/ link] || $3.50 || $0.35 || Package of 10 (White, Black or Green)
|-
| [http://store.ledgenlighting.com/ LEDGenLighting] || SPT-1 || C7 || [http://store.ledgenlighting.com/Socket-C7-E12-size-replacement-green-50bag_p_6701.html link] || $4.00 || $0.08 || Package of 50 Green (Check with vendor does not say SPT1 or SPT2?)
|-
| [http://store.ledgenlighting.com/ LEDGenLighting] || SPT-1 || C7 || [http://store.ledgenlighting.com/Socket-C7-E12-size-replacement-white-50bag_p_6702.html link] || $4.00 || $0.08 || Package of 50 White (Check with vendor does not say SPT1 or SPT2?)

|-
| [http://noveltylights.com Novelty Lights] || SPT-1 || C7 || [http://www.noveltylights.com/C7-SPT-1-Green-Sockets-50-Pack-C7-SKT-GW-SPT-1.html link] || $8.50 || $0.17 || Package of 50 Green
|-
| [http://noveltylights.com Novelty Lights] || SPT-1 || C7 || [http://www.noveltylights.com/C7-SPT-1-White-Sockets-50-Pack-C7-SKT-WW-SPT-1.html link] || $8.50 || $0.17 || Package of 50 White
|-
| [http://www.wlcventures.com WLCVentures] || SPT-1 || C7 || [http://wlcventures.com/zencart/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=7&products_id=133 link] || $10.00 || $0.50 || Package of 50 Green (SPT1/SPT2)
|-
| || || || || || ||
|-
| '''SPT-1 C9 Socket''' || || || || || ||
|-
| [http://www.actionlighting.com Action Lighting] || SPT-1 || C9 || [http://www.actionlighting.com/c9-replacement-christmas-socket-pack-100pc-bag-100slac9skt/ link] || $11.41 || $0.11 || Package of 100 (Green or White)
|-
| [http://www.christmaslightshow.com ChristmasLightShow] || SPT-1 || C9 || [http://www.christmaslightshow.com/spt1-c9-socket-10-pack.html link] || $3.95 || $0.40 || Package of 10 Green
|-
| [http://www.creativedisplays.com Creative Displays] || SP-T1 ||C9 || [http://www.creativedisplays.com/product/806/ELECTRICAL-PLUGS-FOR-ZIP-CORD-WIRE/ link] || $4.00 || $0.40 || Package of 10 (White, Black or Green)
|-
| [http://store.ledgenlighting.com/ LEDGenLighting] || SPT-1 || C9 || [http://store.ledgenlighting.com/Socket-C9-E17-size-replacement-green-50bag_p_6703.html link] || $5.00 || $0.10 || Package of 50 Green (Check with vendor does not say SPT1 or SPT2?)
|-
| [http://store.ledgenlighting.com/ LEDGenLighting] || SPT-1 || C9 || [http://store.ledgenlighting.com/Socket-C9-E17-size-replacement-white-50bag_p_6704.html link] || $5.00 || $0.10 || Package of 50 White (Check with vendor does not say SPT1 or SPT2?)
|-
| [http://noveltylights.com Novelty Lights] || SPT-1 || C9 || [http://www.noveltylights.com/C9-SPT-1-Green-Sockets-50-Pack-C9-SKT-GW-SPT-1.html link] || $9.50 || $0.19 || Package of 50 Green
|-
| [http://noveltylights.com Novelty Lights] || SPT-1 || C9 || [http://www.noveltylights.com/C7-SPT-1-White-Sockets-50-Pack-C7-SKT-WW-SPT-1.html link] || $8.50 || $0.17 || Package of 50 White
|-
| [http://www.wlcventures.com WLCVentures] || SPT-1 || C9 || [http://wlcventures.com/zencart/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=7&products_id=132 link] || $10.00 || $0.50 || Package of 50 Green (SPT1/SPT2)
|}

===SPT-2===
{| class="wikitable"
|-
| Vendor || Size || Type || Link || Price || Price per Unit|| Note
|-
| '''SPT-2 Male Plug''' || || || || || ||
|-
| [http://www.actionlighting.com Action Lighting] || SPT-2 || Male || [http://www.actionlighting.com/spt-1-spt-2-vampire-zip-cord-receptacle-green-pack-12-plugs-100sptplug/ link] || $5.93 || $0.49 || Package of 12 Green
|-
| [http://www.actionlighting.com Action Lighting] || SPT-2 || Male || [http://www.actionlighting.com/spt-1-spt-2-vampire-zip-cord-receptacle-white-pack-12-plugs/ link] || $5.93 || $0.49 || Package of 12 White
|-
| [http://store.3glightingcreations.com 3G Light Creations] || SPT-2 || Male|| [http://store.3glightingcreations.com/spt2-male-plugs-green/ link] ||$6.95 || $0.70 || Package of 10 Green
|-
| [http://store.3glightingcreations.com 3G Light Creations] || SPT-2 || Male || [http://store.3glightingcreations.com/spt2-male-plugs-white/ link] || $6.95 || $0.70 || Package of 10 White
|-
| [http://www.christmaslightshow.com ChristmasLightShow] || SPT-2 || Male || [http://www.christmaslightshow.com/spt2-male-plug-10-in-a-pack-green.html link] || $6.00 || $0.60 || Package of 10 Green
|-
| [http://store.ledgenlighting.com/ LEDGenLighting] || SPT-2 || Male || [http://store.ledgenlighting.com/Electrical-Plug-male-green-slide-on-SPT-2-_p_6698.html link] || $19.00 || $0.38 || Package of 50 Green
|-
| [http://noveltylights.com Novelty Lights] || SPT-2 || Male || [http://www.noveltylights.com/SPT-2-Male-Vampire-Plugs-Green.html link] || $0.85 || $0.85 || Package of 1 Green (Discount for quantity 50-149 $0.65, 150+ $0.50)
|-
| [http://noveltylights.com Novelty Lights] || SPT-2 || Male || [http://www.noveltylights.com/SPT-2-Male-Plugs-White.html link] || $0.85 || $0.85 || Package of 1 White (Discount for quantity 50-149 $0.65, 150+ $0.50)
|-
| [http://www.wlcventures.com WLCVentures] || SPT-2 || Male || [http://wlcventures.com/zencart/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=7&products_id=14 link] || $25.00 || $0.50 || Package of 50 Green
|-
| '''SPT-2 Female Socket''' || || || || || ||
|-
| [http://www.actionlighting.com Action Lighting] || SPT-2 || Female || [http://www.actionlighting.com/spt-1-spt-2-vampire-zip-cord-receptacle-green-pack-12-plugs-100sptplug/ link] || $5.93 || $0.49 || Package of 12 Green
|-
| [http://www.actionlighting.com Action Lighting] || SPT-2 || Female || [http://www.actionlighting.com/spt-1-spt-2-vampire-zip-cord-receptacle-white-pack-12-plugs/ link] || $5.93 || $0.49 || Package of 12 White
|-
| [http://store.3glightingcreations.com 3G Light Creations] || SPT-2 || Female || [http://store.3glightingcreations.com/spt2-female-plugs-green/ link] || $6.95 || $0.70 || Package of 10 Green
|-
| [http://store.3glightingcreations.com 3G Light Creations] || SPT-2 || Female || [http://store.3glightingcreations.com/spt2-female-plugs-white/ link] || $6.95 || $0.70 || Package of 10 White
|-
| [http://www.christmaslightshow.com ChristmasLightShow] || SPT-2 || Female || [http://www.christmaslightshow.com/spt2-female-plug-10-in-a-pack-green.html link] || $6.00 || $0.60 || Package of 10 Green
|-
| [http://store.ledgenlighting.com/ LEDGenLighting] || SPT-2 || Female || [http://store.ledgenlighting.com/Electrical-Receptacle-female-green-slide-on-SPT-2-_p_6695.html link] || $20.00 || $0.40 || Package of 50 Green
|-
| [http://noveltylights.com Novelty Lights] || SPT-2 || Female || [http://www.noveltylights.com/SPT2-Female-Sockets-Green.html link] || $0.85 || $0.85 || Package of 1 Green (Discount for quantity 50-149 $0.65, 150+ $0.50)
|-
| [http://noveltylights.com Novelty Lights] || SPT-2 || Female || [http://www.noveltylights.com/SPT-2-Female-Sockets-White.html link] || $0.85 || $0.85 || Package of 1 White (Discount for quantity 50-149 $0.65, 150+ $0.50)
|-
| [http://www.wlcventures.com WLCVentures] || SPT-2 || Female || [http://wlcventures.com/zencart/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=7&products_id=15 link] || $25.00 || $0.50 || Package of 50 Green
|-
| '''SPT-2 Female Inline Socket''' || || || || || ||
|-
| [http://www.wlcventures.com WLCVentures] || SPT-2 || Female Inline || [http://wlcventures.com/zencart/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=7&products_id=30 link] || $25.00 || $0.50 || Package of 50 Green
|-
| '''SPT-2 C7 Socket''' || || || || || ||
|-
| [http://www.actionlighting.com Action Lighting] || SPT-2 || C7 || [http://www.actionlighting.com/c7-replacement-christmas-socket-pack-100pc-bag-100slac7skt/ link] || $11.41 || $0.11 || Package of 100 (Green or White)
|-
| [http://www.christmaslightshow.com ChristmasLightShow] || SPT-2 || C7 || [http://www.christmaslightshow.com/SPT2-C7-Socket-10-Pack.html link] ||$2.95 || $0.30 || Package of 10 Green
|-
| [http://store.ledgenlighting.com/ LEDGenLighting] || SPT-2 || C7 || [http://store.ledgenlighting.com/Socket-C7-E12-size-replacement-green-50bag_p_6701.html link] || $4.00 || $0.08 || Package of 50 Green (Check with vendor does not say SPT1 or SPT2?)
|-
| [http://store.ledgenlighting.com/ LEDGenLighting] || SPT-2 || C7 || [http://store.ledgenlighting.com/Socket-C7-E12-size-replacement-white-50bag_p_6702.html link] || $4.00 || $0.08 || Package of 50 White (Check with vendor does not say SPT1 or SPT2?)
|-
| [http://noveltylights.com Novelty Lights] || SPT-2 || C7 || [http://www.noveltylights.com/C7-SPT-2-Green-Sockets-50-Pack-C7-SKT-GW-SPT-2.html link] || $8.50 || $0.17 || Package of 50 Green
|-
| [http://noveltylights.com Novelty Lights] || SPT-2 || C7 || [http://www.noveltylights.com/C7-SPT-2-White-Sockets-50-Pack-C7-SKT-WW-SPT-2.html link] || $8.50 || $0.17 || Package of 50 White
|-
| [http://www.wlcventures.com WLCVentures] || SPT-2 || C7 || [http://wlcventures.com/zencart/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=7&products_id=133 link] || $10.00 || $0.50 || Package of 50 Green (SPT1/SPT2)
|-
| || || || || || ||
|-
| '''SPT-2 C9 Socket''' || || || || || ||
|-
| [http://www.actionlighting.com Action Lighting] || SPT-2 || C9 || [http://www.actionlighting.com/c9-replacement-christmas-socket-pack-100pc-bag-100slac9skt/ link] || $11.41 || $0.11 || Package of 100 (Green or White)
|-
| [http://www.christmaslightshow.com ChristmasLightShow] || SPT-2 || C9 || [http://www.christmaslightshow.com/spt2-c9-socket-10-pack.html link] || $3.95 || $0.40 || Package of 10 Green
|-
| [http://www.diyledexpress.com DIYLEDExpress] || SPT-2 || C9 || [http://www.diyledexpress.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=6&products_id=33 link] || $3.75 || $0.31 || Package of 12 Green
|-
| [http://store.ledgenlighting.com/ LEDGenLighting] || SPT-2 || C9 || [http://store.ledgenlighting.com/Socket-C9-E17-size-replacement-green-50bag_p_6703.html link] || $5.00 || $0.10 || Package of 50 Green (Check with vendor does not say SPT1 or SPT2?)
|-
| [http://store.ledgenlighting.com/ LEDGenLighting] || SPT-2 || C9 || [http://store.ledgenlighting.com/Socket-C9-E17-size-replacement-white-50bag_p_6704.html link] || $5.00 || $0.10 || Package of 50 White (Check with vendor does not say SPT1 or SPT2?)
|-
| [http://noveltylights.com Novelty Lights] || SPT-2 || C9 || [http://www.noveltylights.com/C9-SPT-2-Green-Sockets-50-Pack-C9-SKT-GW-SPT-1.html link] || $9.50 || $0.19 || Package of 50 Green
|-
| [http://noveltylights.com Novelty Lights] || SPT-2 || C9 || [http://www.noveltylights.com/C9-SPT-2-White-Sockets-50-Pack-C9-SKT-WW-SPT-2.html link] || $8.50 || $0.17 || Package of 50 White
|-
| [http://www.wlcventures.com WLCVentures] || SPT-2 || C9 || [http://wlcventures.com/zencart/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=7&products_id=132 link] || $10.00 || $0.50 || Package of 50 Green (SPT1/SPT2)
|}

[[Category:Beginners Info]]
[[Category:Display Construction]]
[[Category:DIYC Index]]
[[Category:How To]]

Enclosures

2013-01-28T23:34:20Z

Jrd: A CG-1000 picture was listed for the CG-500

='''Enclosures'''=
It is common to mount the various circuit boards and controllers in plastic enclosures to protect them from exposure to the environment and things like rain, snow and insects. While most of the enclosures folks use are not truly "Waterproof" they are "Weatherproof". The following enclosures manage to keep the boards reasonably well protected. While some people go to [[Enclosures#Threads|various lengths]] to cover the enclosures by plastic bags or use rope caulk to make a better seal on the covers, most folks do not. These enclosures are originally designed for use in the telecommunications and the cable tv industry for mounting various equipment outside. The enclosures all have various height standoffs on the inside back wall to attach circuit boards to. The enclosures all have snap lock closures to keep the enclosures closed. Some of the enclosures also have recessed screw lock to make the enclosures more tamper proof. It is also possible to further secure the enclosures using plastic wire ties thru the slots on the doors. 

There also many other [[Enclosures#Alternate_Enclosures|alternative ways]] to mount your circuit boards in other types of enclosures. 
 

=Disclaimers=
The standard disclaimers pertaining to the information contained on this wiki page are listed [[Disclaimers | here.]] 

=Popular Enclosures=
Exterior Dimensions
<table border="1">
<tr><td>Enclosure</td><td>Height</td><td>Width</td><td>Depth</td></tr>
<tr><td>TA-200</td><td>3.13” (7.95cm)</td><td>3.63” (9.22cm)</td><td>2.5” (6.35cm) </td></tr>
<tr><td>CG-500</td><td>6.5" (16.5cm)</td><td>8.0" (20.3cm)</td><td>2.75" (7.0cm)</td></tr>
<tr><td>CG-1000</td><td>9.00" (22.80cm)</td><td>9.00" (22.80cm)</td><td>3.00" (7.60cm)</td></tr>
<tr><td>CG-1500</td><td>12.25" (31.10cm)</td><td>12" (30.50cm)</td><td>5.25" (13.30cm)</td></tr>
<tr><td>CG-2000</td><td>13.0" (33.00cm)</td><td>9.0" (22.80cm)</td><td>3.0" (7.60cm)</td></tr>
</table>
 

==TA-200 (Terminal Access TA-200 Terminal Enclosure)==
[[File:TA-200.png| 100px|TA-200]][[File:TA-200-inside.png| 100px|TA-200]][[File:TA-200.jpg| 100px|TA-200 Ukewarrior]] [[File:SSRezEnclosure.JPG|110px|SSRez g2ktcf]] [[File:Ssrneon_001.jpg| 200px|SSRNeon Ukewarrior]] [[File:DCSSR2-4-Final.jpg| 150px|DCSSR dlovely]] [[File:DC_SSR1.JPG| 150px|DCSSR thurrle]] 
 
Common usage:[[SSRez | SSRez ACSSR]], [[SSRneon | SSRNeon ACSSR]], [[DCSSR_Version_2.4 | DCSSR Version 2.4]] 
External Dimensions (HxWxD): 3.13” x 3.63” x 2.5” (7.95cm x 9.22cm x 6.35cm) 
Internal Dimensions: 
[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/images/4/49/TA-200-Terminal-Enclosure.pdf Datasheet] 
[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/images/c/c1/TA-200-Base-Drawing_1249137425.pdf Internal Drawing] 
 
 

==CG-500 (CableGuard 500 Coax Demarcation Enclosure)==
[[File:CG-500.png| 300px|CG-500]][[File:CG-500-inside.png| 450px|CG-500]] [[File:IMG 2450.JPG| 300px|Simple Renard 32 Combo OregonLights]] [[File:E131 DMX bridge.png| 350px| RPM's E1.31 to DMX Bridge nuelemma]] 
 
Common usage:[[Simple_Renard_32_Combo | Simple Renard 32 Combo]], [[Simple_Renard_RGB%2BW | Simple Renard 32 RGB+W DC Controller]], [http://shop.martinxmas.com/product.php?id_product=48 RPM E1.31 To DMX Bridge] 
External Dimensions (HxWxD): 6.5" x 8.0" x 2.75" (16.5cm x 20.3cm x 7.0cm) 
Internal Dimensions: 
[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/images/a/a9/CG-500-Coax-Demarcation-Enclosure.pdf Datasheet] 
[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/images/e/ed/CG-500-Base-Options_1331643504.pdf Internal Drawing] 
 
 

==CG-1000 (CableGuard 1000 Coax Demarcation Enclosure==
[[File:CG-1000.png| 300px|CG-1000]] [[File:CG-1000-inside.png| 300px|CG-1000]] [[File:SS8 enclosure.JPG| 240px|SS8 WayneJ]] [[File:SS16 hs.JPG| 300px| SS16 waynej]] [[File:SS16 enclosure.JPG| 250px|SS16 WayneJ]] [[File:JRDRen24.jpg| 300px|REN24HC jrd]] [[File:0902sm.jpg| 300px|REN48LSD jklingert]] [[File:839 4889 scaled.JPG| 300px|REN64 g2ktcf]] [[File:0904sm.jpg| 250px| RPM E1.31 DMX Bridge jklingert]] [[File:2012-04-17 19.49.46.jpg| 300px|E681 + Power Supply tjetzer]] 
 
Common usage:[[The_Renard_SS8_Controller_Board | Renard SS8 AC Controller]], [[The_Renard_SS16_Controller_Board | Renard SS16 AC Controller]], [[24_Channel_Renard_with_SSR_Assembly_Instructions | Ren24HC AC Controller]], [[Ren48LSDv3c | Renard 48LSD DC Controller]], [[Renard_64XC | Ren64 Controller]], [[Helix#Helix_Daughter_Board|Helix Daughter Board]] 
External Dimensions (HxWxD): 9.00" x 9.00" x 3.00" (22.80cm x 22.80cm x 7.60cm) 
Internal Dimensions: 
[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/images/e/e1/CG-1000-Coax-Demarcation-Enclosure.pdf Datasheet] 
[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/images/4/4c/CG-1000-Base-Drawing_124913742_1331643504.pdf Internal Drawing] 
 
 

==CG-1500 (CableGuard 1500 Coax Demarcation Enclosure)==
[[File:CG-1500.png| 300px|CG-1500]][[File:CG-1500-inside.png| 300px|CG-1500]] [[File:2009 IMG 5-4.jpg| 300px|REN48LSD + Power Supply Mangrove]] [[File:028.jpg| 300px|REN48LSD + Power Supply OregonLights]] [[File:0903sm.jpg| 250px|PC Power Supply (old CG-1500 hole pattern) jklingert]] [[File:GC1500 Ren48LSD 12V PS 4BoB v2 (5).jpg| 300px| Ren48LSD + Power Supply + Breakout Boards rfallatt]] [[File:GC1500 Ren48LSD 12V PS 4BoB v2.jpg| 300px| Ren48LSD + Power Supply + Breakout Boards rfallatt]] 
 
Common usage: Similar to CG-1000, but box is larger. [http://sandevices.com/ E680, E681, E682 Pixel Controllers], Various Power Supplies, [[Helix#Helix_Main_Board| Helix Main Board]], [[Helix#Helix_32ch_SSR_Daughter_Board|Helix 32ch SSR Daughter Board]] 
External Dimensions (HxWxD): 12.25" x 12" x 5.25" (31.10cm x 30.50cm x 13.30cm) 
Internal Dimensions: 
Note: In 2011 the mounting hole pattern in the CG-1500 changed to a new layout. The drawing below is the new hole pattern. 
[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/images/3/3b/CG-1500-Coax-Demarcation-Enclosure.pdf Datasheet] 
[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/images/4/4a/CG-1500-Base-Drawing-New-2011_1331643504.pdf Internal Drawing] 
 
 

==CG-2000 (CableGuard 2000 Coax Demarcation Enclosure)==
[[File:CG-2000.png| 200px|CG-2000]] [[File:CG-2000-inside.png| 300px|CG-2000]] [[File:Encl-open-sm.jpg| 200px|Renard SS24 rjchu]] [[File:SS24 enclosure.JPG| 180px|Renard SS24 waynej]] [[File:IMG 4333.jpg|200px|Ren64 JEEPGUY]] 
Common usage: [[The_Renard_SS24_Controller_Board | Renard SS 24]] 
External Dimensions (HxWxD): 13.0" x 9.0" x 3.0" (33.00cm x 22.80cm x 7.60cm) 
Internal Dimensions: 
[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/images/d/dd/CG-2000-Coax-Demarcation-Enclosure.pdf Datasheet] 
Internal Drawing 
 
 

=Mounting Options=
[[File:Stand img 0960.jpg| 300px|BillinSoFl]] [[File:Stand IMG 0162.jpg| 300px|somtng4u2c]] [[File:2009 IMG 5-2.jpg|500px|Mangrove]] 
==Mounting Threads==
[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?20774-Mounting-enclosures Mounting Enclosures Thread] 
[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?17810-A-stand-mount-for-enclosures Mounting Options Thread] 
[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?12263-Mounting-CG-1000-CG-2000 More Mounting Options] 
 
 

=Vendors=
The following vendors stock the enclosures listed above. They are also active participants of the DIYC community and can frequently be found in the [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/addonchat.php Chat Room] on the DIYC site. 
 
[http://www.diyledexpress.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=16 DIY LED Express] is run by user [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/member.php?2860-tjetzer tjetzer (Todd)] 
 
[http://wlcventures.com/zencart/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=1 WLC Ventures]is run by user [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/member.php?1606-g2ktcf g2ktcf (Chris)] 
 
Another vendor that is not a DIYC member is DF Countryman. Call 612-724-4400 to order from Sales Manager Duke McNaughton
 
 

=Other Information=
*Many of the boards and controllers are designed to mount in specific enclosure and have their holes partially or completely align with the built in standoff in the enclosures.

*It is also necessary or desirable to sometimes mount the board in different positions where the holes in the pcb does not align with the standoffs in the enclosure. It is common to use Nylon standoffs or small sections of plastic tubing to keep the boards away from the back of the enclosure. Frequently these standoffs are attached to the enclosure using adhesives like E6000, Epoxy or hot glue. Scuffing the smooth plastic enclosure before applying the adhesive will assist their holding power.

* Another common method to mount boards and controllers in an enclosure is to actually mount the pcb to a plastic or MDF board that is then attached to the enclosure. Low cost plastic cutting boards from a dollar store or a piece of lexan from a big box hardware store are also commonly used.

*It is also common to drill right thru the back of the enclosure to have screws provide standoffs. A small gasket or a dab of glue can also seal the holes from the weather. 
 
 

=FAQ=
TBD 
 

=Alternate Enclosures=
[[Alternate_Enclosures | Alternate Enclosure Wiki]] 
[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?17000-SS24-Enclosure-Using-5-quot-x5-quot-Vinyl-Fence-Post&highlight=enclosures SS24 in 5" Fence Post] 
[http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/21-11145 Dripbox 330 Outdoor Waterproof/Weatherproof Box- Black] 
[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?19095-Orbit-Outdoor-Timer-Box-for-1-88 Orbit Outdoor Timer Box] 
[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?18137-Cheap-Quick-Board-Enclosure&p=183781#post183781 Plastic Food Containers] 
[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?16802-Trouble-finding-enclosure-RenSS24&p=171370#post171370 Ammo Can] 
[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?15825-New-enclosure-idea&p=160224#post160224 PVC Pipe] 
[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?20580-Post-Enclosure-Pics-Thread&p=208973#post208973 Mission Control!] 
 
 

=Threads=
[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?20580-Post-Enclosure-Pics-Thread Photos of Boards Mounted in enclosures] 
[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?21259-To-paint-or-not-to-paint-enclosures&highlight=enclosures Painting Enclosures] 
[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?18937-Ren48LSD-in-CG-1500-Enclosure-with-ATX-Power-Supply-and-RenW&p=190577#post190577 Adding Vents] 
[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?12663-Bags-over-enclosures Bags over enclosures to keep dry] 
[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?18229-TA-200-leaking-water Sealing to prevent Leakage] 
[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?16433-Keptel-Enclosure-Gasket&p=166755#post166755 Rope Caulk] 
[http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=Ren-W_Controller_Heater Heater in an Enclosure for cold weather] 
[http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=Ren-W_BOM_and_Construction#Mounting_a_Ren-W_and_SS24_Controller_in_a_CG2000_Enclosure Mounting a REN-W in a CG-2000 Enclosure] 

 
 

[[Category:DIYC Index]]
[[Category:Display Construction]]
[[Category:How To]]
[[Category:DIYC_Hardware]]
[[Category:DIYC Controllers]]
[[Category:General_Info]]

24 Channel Renard with SSR Assembly Instructions

2012-10-12T03:39:14Z

Jrd: Re-hosted the assembly instructions locally.

=== Renard 24 Information ===

The Renard 24 Dimmer is Frank Kostyun's 24 Channel All-In-One Christmas Lights Controller.

[http://www.kostyun.com Frank Kostyun's Renard 24 Info Page]

[http://store.kostyun.com/prestashop Frank Kostyun's Online Store for Renard 24 Co-Ops]
 
Co-Ops are run throughout the year for the purchase of boards. There are also additional co-ops run for parts, and heatsinks.

[http://http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=18 DoItYourselfChristmas.com's Group Buys Forum]

WLC Ventures now stocks the Renard 24HC [http://wlcventures.com/zencart/index.php?main_page=advanced_search_result&search_in_description=1&keyword=Renard+24HC here].

=== Schematic===

[[Media:Renard64_sch_001.pdf]]
(please note, the schematic is identical to the Renard64)

RavingLunatic created this schematic by tracing out the board. Note that this is NOT an official schematic, may have errors, and some reference designators are were derived for this schematic.

[[Media:Renard24 V33 Schematic package.pdf]]

=== Layout ===

[[Image:REN_24_25.jpg]]

=== COOP PCB V3.0 ===

[[Image:26-72.jpg]]

=== Co-Op Board 3.3 Assembly Instructions ===

For a full step by step document on how to build the Renard 24, please click the following link:

[http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/images/6/63/Building_ren_24.pdf Renard 24 Assembly Instructions] - [http://www.kostyun.com/PDF/building_ren_24.pdf original]

=== Testing the v 3.3 Board===
Version 3.3 has 7 test points (TP1 to TP7)

TP1: GND 
TP2: +5VDC 
TP3: +12v 
TP4: 12vac 
TP5: 12vac 
TP6: RS485A / RJ45 Pin 5 
TP7: RS485B / RJ45 Pin 4 

=== Design Notes for v 3.3 Board===

The COMM FR LED pads are backwards - the cathode (short leg on the LED) will go into the round hole

=== Renard 24 Jumper Settings and Options ===

''Version 2.5 and Greater ''
120/240v Jumpers: Allow for setting the transformers input voltage (labeled as JP1 and JP2.) 
[[Image:120v240v.jpg]] 

Zero Cross: If on, the board will insert the zero cross signal on the RJ45 pin 3 (labeled as JP3.) This is used to send a ZC signal to another board such as a Ren64 or Ren16. 
[[Image:Zc1.jpg]] 
 

Transformer On/Off: If on, the transformer recieves power from the left power input. 
[[Image:Transformer.jpg]] 

 
''Version 3.3 and Greater ''
12v Jumpers: Located below the transformer, these can be installed to use the board in 12vac only mode (for use with MR16 LED lamps, also labeled as JP5 and JP6.) 

=== Firmware ===
All Renard Firmware is located here: [[Renard_Firmware]]
There is also pre-compiled firmware here: [http://www.kostyun.com/?page_id=139/ Renard 24/Renard 24LV firmware Page]

=== BOM ===

<pre>
PCB
1 Ren24 v3.3 Renard 24-Port PCB

Board Specific Parts:

571-7969494 1 '''See note below for v3.3'''
595-SN75176BP 2 '''RS-485 Interface ICs Bus Diff'''
511-L7805CV 1 '''LM7805 Voltage Regulator'''
821-DB102G 1 '''subsitute part 512-DF01M'''
532-7136DG 1 '''Heat Sink for 5V regulator'''
271-27K-RC 3 '''27k ohm 1/4 watt resistor'''
271-1K-RC 4 '''1k ohm 1/4 watt resistor'''
271-120-RC 1 '''120ohm 1/4 watt resistor'''
625-1N4001-E3 1 '''Standard Rectifiers Vr/50V Io/1A'''
78-1N5239B 2 '''Zener Diodes 9.1 Volt 0.5 Watt'''
838-3FD-320 1 '''Larger Transformer use part 838-3FD-420'''
782-H11AA1 1 '''Optocouplers Bi-Directional Input'''
520-TCF1843-X 1 '''Full Size Crystal Clock Oscillators DIP-14 5V 18.432MHz'''
140-HTRL25V1000-RC 1 '''Hi-Temp Radial Electrolytic Capacitors 25V 1000uF 105C'''
140-HTRL25V10-RC 1 '''Hi-Temp Radial Electrolytic Capacitors 25V 10uF 105C'''
534-3517 4 '''Fuse Clips and Holders PC FUSE CLIP 5 MM'''
504-GMA-15 2 '''5mm x 20mm Fast Acting Fuses 125VAC 15A Fast Acting'''

Parts from the Common Parts List: (Common parts are the parts that are not unique to the Ren24, and may also be used in other designs)

511-BTA08-400B 24 '''Triac Driver (24 needed) or 511-BTA04-700T more sensitive triac for LED's))'''
859-MOC3023 24 '''MOC 3023 Optocoupler'''
579-PIC16F688-I/P 3 '''Microchip PIC 16F1688'''
604-WP63ID 4 '''Red T1 3/4 LED, or any 10-30ma LED'''
604-WP1503GD 1 '''Green T1 3/4 LED or any 10-30ma LED'''
271-180-RC 24 '''180ohm 1/4 watt resistor'''
271-680-RC 29 '''680ohm 1/4 watt resistor'''
581-SA105E104MAR 5 '''.10 uF Ceramic Capacitor'''
571-9-146281-0 1 '''.100 three pin header(4 needed) Part specified is a 40 pin, cut off size that is needed.'''
571-2-382811-1 4 '''.100 Shunt (4 needed) You may also "steal" these off of old computer parts.'''
571-1-390261-2 2 '''8 pin DIP socket'''
571-1-390261-3 3 '''14 pin DIP socket'''
571-1-390261-1 26 '''Optional 6 Pin Socket for Optocoupler & H11AA1'''
571-5556416-1 2 '''RJ45 Sockets (2 needed) orientation doesn't matter. Specified part is same as the Ren64'''

PART OPTION #1 - Using Screw Down Terminals

571-2828376 6 '''6 Position Screw Down Terminal (Ren24 2.5 needs 4 of these)'''
158-P02EK508A3-E 4 '''3 Position Angled Screw Down Terminal'''
158-P02EHK508V3-E 1 '''3 Position Screw Down Terminal (power input) - higher current rating than prior part'''
158-P02EHK508V2-E 1 '''2 Position Screw Down Terminal (power input) - higher current rating than prior part'''

Spade Terminals

534-1287 53 '''Spade Terminals (52 needed for board v3.0)'''

Optional Parts for The Board:

12VAC Operation
571-9-146281-0 1 '''.100 two pin header(2 needed)'''
571-2-382811-1 2 '''.100 Shunt (2 needed) You may also "steal" these off of old computer parts.'''
838-3FD-316 0 '''Transformer is ELIMINATED from the board in this option'''

</pre>

[http://www.kostyun.com/PDF/BOM/Ren24_Bom_Mouser.txt Renard 24 Importable BOM - Screw Terminals] All parts valid 05/10/2009

==== Parts Changes From Board 2.5 to 3.3 ====

With multiple changes to the board, and the changes of parts that has occurred over time, if you still are having an older board to solder up, but still need parts - you can use a current Co-Op purchase for parts if you choose - and you will just have a few extra parts left over (and also still be able to enjoy the significant savings the co-op gets you.)
 
You will end up with:
2 to 3 jumper sets
2 extra resistors
2 extra LEDs
2 of 71-2828376 - 6 pin connector
and 4 of 158-P02EK508A3-E - 3 pin angled connector

On parts 158-P02EHK508V2-E and 158-P02EHK508V3-E - the Five Pin Terminal, it is reccommended to just cut off the pin for one of the plugs.

==== PC to Renard Cable ====

The Renard 24 board has on-board power supply circuitry and on-board zero-crossing circuitry, so all that it needs on the RJ45 cable are data signals and ground. If you are using RS232 input and connecting it directly to the PC serial port, the following cable pin outs will work:

'''Version 3.0 Board:'''
PC DB9 Pin 3 to RJ45-pin 4
PC DB9 Pin 5 to RJ45-pins 1,2,5 (pins 1 and 5 are required, pin 2 is optional).
[[Image:Ren24V3.jpg]]

If you are using a RS-232 to RS-485 converter, the pinout is Pin 5 to A+
and Pin 4 to B-. This is the same as for the Ren 16.

'''Version 2.5 Board:'''
PC DB9 Pin 3 to RJ45-pin 5
PC DB9 Pin 5 to RJ45-pins 1,2,4 (pins 1 and 4 are required, pin 2 is optional).
[[Image:Ren24v25.jpg]]

'''NOTE:''' ''The 2.5 cable will not work with the Renard16, Renard64 or Ren-C boards because pins 4 and 5 on the version 2.5 Renard24 are reversed from those other boards.''

[[Image:Db9f.gif]]
'''Female DB9 connector as if you were looking into the end of it from the outside.'''

The Renard24 3.0 or greater will pass the zero cross and power to other boards connected to it (such as a Renard64 or Renard16.)

=== Board Version History ===

Revision 1 board (unreleased, development board only)

Revision 2 board (unreleased, development board only)

Revision 2.5 board (2007 Co-Op)

Revision 3.0 board (2008 Co-Op #1 and #2)

Revision 3.1 board (unreleased, development board only)

Revision 3.3 board (2008 Co-Op #3 and 2009 Co-Ops #1 and #2)

== Revision History ==

01/20/2007 Initial Design
03/20/2007 Revision 2 submitted to test manufacturing.
07/15/2007 Changed RJ45 to comply with current Renard standards.
07/15/2007 Added additional holes for a larger transformer.
07/15/2007 Added transformer voltage selection jumpers, will allow for 120/240v operation for our friends down under.
07/15/2007 Changed fuse size to 5x20mm fuse from AG3 fuse.
07/16/2007 Added option for DIP or SMT MOC2032 optos.
08/20/2007 Version 2.5 submitted to test manufacturing.
10/01/2007 Making small adjustments based on user feedback to ease setup of board. No major changes made.
01/14/2008 Corrected RS485 pins 4/5 to match Ren16 and Ren64
01/14/2008 Minor silkscreen corrections.
01/14/2008 Increase the size of the board to add a neutral buss onto the board.
01/14/2008 Added support for either spade terminals or screw down terminals.
02/20/2008 Added power pass through on pins 7/8 and ground on pins 1/2.
07/31/2008 Added two additional diagnostic LEDs for the diagnostic firmware.
07/31/2008 Change 4 pin input to 5 pin input to allow for easy jumpering of sides.
07/31/2008 Added jumpers below transformer for 12vac use.
03/18/2009 Corrected silkscreen and pads of the Comm FR test LED

Errata for Rev 1 PCB -

1) Onboard regulator not functioning properly: needed addition of 1000uF capacator. (corrected in rev 2.0 board)
2) Outputs are out of order. (corrected in rev 2.0 board)
3) Triacs are located to close together. (corrected in rev 2.0 board)

Errata for Rev 2 PCB -

1) Outputs 17/18 are swapped. (corrected in rev 2.5 board)

Errata for Rev 2.5 PCB - (Co-Op Board)
1) RS485 traces swapped from the Ren16/Ren64 pin config. (To be corrected in Rev 3.0 Board)
2) Silkscreen needs to have some clarification done for part orientation.

Errata for Rev 3.0 PCB - (Co-Op Board)
1) Some holes to small for spade tabs
2) still some spacing issues around the voltage regulator heatsink.

Errata for Rev 3.3 PCB - (Co-Op Board)
1) COMM FR LED pads are backwards

=== Design Notes for v 2.5 Co-Op Board===

Pin 1 of the crystal is on the bottom left.

Pin 1 of the transformer is on the top left.

The cathode (striped) pin of the 1N4001 diode is on the top.

The correct designation of the capacitor on the top right is .1uF, not .1F.

The + pin of the DB102 is on the bottom right both of the ~ should be on the left.

The original parts parts list had a 100uF cap, ignore it - as its not needed (Deleted from BOM) There is a extra 1uF on the board, also not needed.

The 7805 (flat side) goes to the top of the board.

The heatsink for the 7805 should be trimmmed at the bottom to allow for proper fit.

The fuse clips are two tight for the board - now sure how this happened - I need to look into this more - as this is the part that I ordered last year and it fits fine. Use pliers to squeeze the pins together a bit and they will fit in.

The jumpers on the board are for 120/240v operation. If you don't plan on using the boards on 120v these can be hard soldered with a jumper wire.

There are two resistors that are close to the output blocks, when installing them, leave them up a bit so they can be pushed back a little bit.

[[Category:DIYC Controllers]]
[[Category:Renard]]
[[Category:Renard 24]]
[[Category:DIYC Index]]

File:Building ren 24.pdf

2012-10-12T03:35:49Z

Jrd: Re-hosted from Kostyun's site in the event that it goes down. http://www.kostyun.com/PDF/building_ren_24.pdf

Re-hosted from Kostyun's site in the event that it goes down. http://www.kostyun.com/PDF/building_ren_24.pdf

Renard max channel count

2012-10-05T02:35:09Z

Jrd: Redirected page to Renard max channel limit

#REDIRECT [[Renard max channel limit]]

Renard max channel limit

2012-08-27T04:14:22Z

Jrd: Created page with "File:Renard channel limit.png"

[[File:Renard channel limit.png]]

DIYCFlood

2012-08-20T01:52:37Z

Jrd: Redirected page to DIYC Flood

#REDIRECT[[DIYC_Flood]]

Ren-w

2012-07-16T21:27:22Z

Jrd: Redirected page to Renard Wireless Converter

#REDIRECT[[Renard_Wireless_Converter]]

Ren24HC

2012-06-12T02:52:00Z

Jrd: Redirected page to 24 Channel Renard with SSR Assembly Instructions

#REDIRECT [[24 Channel Renard with SSR Assembly Instructions]]

SSRneon TA-200 Versions

2012-05-29T23:03:42Z

Jrd: Updated a few pictures for the G2-LED wich were just showing the G2

[[Image:Ssrneon_pcb.jpg|right|Version G2]]

==The SSR with a ''Safety'' Enhancement ! ==


The SSRneon is a 4 port AC Solid State Relay (SSR). It is derived from the same basic design that has been in general use by the DIY community for many years. Most of the DIY SSRs are derived from Sean Bowf's original 4 port SSR. The design has evolved over the years, but the core functions and parts are the same. The SSRneon, SSRoz and SSRez are all such designs.


==Two versions that fit in the TA-200 Enclosure ==


The SSRneon-G2 is available in two versions, the '''SSRneon-G2''' and the '''SSRneon-G2-LED'''. 
Both of these designs share similar layouts and both have the neon bulb indicators for extra safety. 
 

The '''SSRneon-G2''' was available as both a production board and as a home-etchable board. 
The '''SSRneon-G2-LED''' is only available as a two sided production board. There is no home etch layout available.



==SSRneon-G2 bare PCB ==

[[Image:SSRneon_G2_PCB.jpg]]



==SSRneon-G2-LED bare PCB ==

[[Image:Ssrneon_pcb.jpg]]



== Safety Features ==

[[Image:Ne-2e_picture.jpg|right|ne-2E]]
[[Image:Neon glow.jpg |right|Neon glow.jpg]]
The main safety feature of any SSR is the main FUSE. 
This is discussed in a separate section below.

The SSRneon contains two NE-2E neon light bulbs.


'''Two key points are what differentiates the SSRneon G2 from the other available SSRs.''' 
'''1. Dual Neon bulbs that indicate the presence of AC Voltage on both sides of the Fuse !'''
'''2. The attachment of the AC wires, in AC pairs, along the bottom of the board with NO wirenuts required.'''

The point of these neon lamps is they serve as a safety warning that AC voltage (which can be lethal) is present on the SSR PCB.
One bulb lights if AC voltage is correctly attached to the board. Marked ''AC Present'' on the Boards Silkscreen (legend). 
The second bulb lights if AC voltage has successfully passed through the on-board fuse. Marked ''FUSE OK'' on the Boards silkscreen (legend).

The presence of the second bulb (FUSE OK) serves as a troubleshooting device. If the ''AC Present'' bulb is lit, but the ''FUSE OK'' is not, then you know that AC is connected properly, but there is something wrong with the fuse.

Neons are used instead of an incandescent blub due to the fact that a neon bulb is very long lived and is much 'tougher' then an incandescent since there is no filament to break.

These bulbs play no role in the basic function of the relay and can be left off the board. If this is done, the two 100K resistors can also be left off the board.
The 100K resistors are needed to keep the bulbs from burning out over time.

== General Features ==


The board has solder pads on both sides of the board and the holes are through plated. This makes for easy and more error free soldering.
The board has 2 ounce copper traces for added reserve capacity and heat absorption.


The SSRneon is designed to mount in the TA-200 enclosure. This enclosure is a proven performer.
The SSRneon fits in the TA-200 Telephone Demarc Enclosure from [http://www.afltele.com/products/copper_apparatus/terminal_enclosures/Keptel_TA-200_Termin_Encl.html www.afltele.com]. 
It is available from Chris Foley's DIY Christmas site:[http://www.wlcventures.com/ WLC Ventures]

[[Image:terminal_block.jpg|right|terminal block]]
All wires attach via terminal blocks. The attachment points are along the bottom of the board facing the enclosure openings.
The wire attachment is different then the other SSRs. Instead of grouping all of the neutrals and all of the 'hots' together, each individual wire 'pair' is terminated on their own terminal block. This avoids the problem of having to cut the hot and neutral wire within a pair to different lengths in order to get them to fit nicely inside the already cramped enclosure. The PCB takes care of tying all of the neutrals together for you.

[[image:heatsink.JPG|right|heat sink]]
A heatsink can be fashioned and attached to the TRIACs. Use of a heatsink should boost the continuous amp capacity from 4 amps to 7 amps. A heatsink should not be necessary unless the load for any single channel (Tirac) exceeds 1 amp. These are usually made from a piece of aluminum since it cuts and drills easily and absorbs heat rapidly. See the example to the right of a couple dozen homemade headsinks.
One safety note about heatsinks. You need to be sure the TRIACs you are using have what is know as an 'isolated tab.' The tab is the exposed metal pad with the hole in it. On some TRIACs the tab is 'hot' or has AC voltage present. You should not use a heatsink that connects all of the TRIACS together unless all the TRIACs have an 'isolated tab'.
The TRIAC listed in the BOM has an 'isolated tab' so it is suitable for use with a heatsink.

[[image:TA-200.jpg|right|TA-200]]
The board has two points to mount it to the TA-200 enclosure. Great pains were taken to make sure that the screws that come with the enclosure can be used once they have been cut down to a proper length. You can use the screws that come with the enclosure provided you cut them off. The correct length of the cut off shaft BELOW the head is 5/8".

The screws that come with the enclosure are nice in that they have both a hex head and a screw driver slot for installation/removal. (Plus they are free with the enclosure!)

.

== Order your own boards ==

You can order your own boards with the information given below, or you can contact: ''ukewarrior'' on the DIYC forum to see if he has any in stock.

The PCB industry has a standard for the definition of a PCB. It's called a 'gerber' file.
This is a set of files that have the actual instructions that tell the machines how to operate.

The Gerbers for the '''SSRneon-G2''' are found at this link:
[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=10753&d=1311175759 Zip File containing the SSRneon G2 Gerber files]
 
The Gerbers for the '''SSRneon-G2-LED''' are found at this link:
[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/dynamics/attachment.php?attachmentid=417&dateline=1333648359 Zip File containing the SSRneon-G2-LED Gerber files]

This is all your should need to order PCBs from any PCB manufacturer.

== Home Etch ==
[[Image:SSRneon-G2_wiki_etch.jpg|right|copper]]
The board is home etch friendly. It is single sided. Effort was made to keep the traces wide with good spacing. You will also notice that all the trace corners are rounded since this makes for a better home etch.
A special version of the copper side was created. It matches the layout of the production board. However, all of the large through holes have been '''filled-in'' with only a small dot in the middle of the copper removed. This allows the home etcher to drill these holes whatever size he likes and still have adjacent copper to the hole's edge.

Board amperage for 1 oz copper should not exceed 4 Amps. 5 Amps can be attempted with heatsinked Triacs.

The etch files are .pdf format. Be sure to print these with the ''actual size'' attributes set within Acrobat.

The copper image can be found here: [http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/images/b/b3/SSRneon_G2_etch.pdf ETCH File]

The silkscreen image can be found here: [http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/images/6/6a/SSRneon_G2_etch_silkscreen.pdf Silkscreen File]



== Fuse Rating ==
[[Image:fuse.jpg|right|fuse]]
The main Fuse exists to protect both people and the components on the board.

Various fuse values have been listed for all the various 4 port SSRs. e.g. SSRneon, Sean Bowf, SSRoz, SSRez.

The fuse value is determined by several factors. Key among these is the amount of current, in total, that is flowing through the SSR. Another factor is the copper weight and size of the main AC traces. (Copper weight is how 'thick' the copper is on the board.) 
A Fuse of 4 amps is a good place to start. If you want to drive more then 1 amp through any individual TRIAC (channel), then you can ramp up to as high as a 7 amp fuse. However, once you move above 1 amp through any single TRIAC (channel), you should put a heat sink on the TRIAC(s). This does not mean you can run 7 amps through a single TRIAC (channel). A single TRIAC can handle about 1.5 amps, perhaps 1.75 max. You will notice that the copper traces that connect to any one TRIAC are no where near the size of the main AC copper trace. So, just because the TRIAC you use may be rated for 3 or 4 or more amps doesn't mean the SSRneon can safely drive it at that amperage.

It is this authors opinon that you should run as low a fuse value as possible for your needs. For example, this author runs a 100% LED based show and runs several SSRneons with 2 amp fuses.

== Disclaimers ==

'''USE the SSRneon at Your Own Risk !'''
'''The SSRneon has NO warranty expressed or implied'''


== BOM - Bill of Materials ==

Note regarding resistors. You usually want to purchase resistors from Mouser in quantities
of 100 of a specific value. You usually can get 100 resistors for the same price of
20 individual resistors. (You will eventually use them !)

'''SSRneon-G2 BOM for 120VAC Operation:'''
<pre style="font-size: 10pt">
QTY Silkscreen Mouser #: Description
2 606-A9A Neon Lamp 65VAC .7mA NE-2E
1 571-5556416-1 Modular Jacks 8 PCB TOP ENTRY marked RJ45
4 -BTA06-600CW Triacs .........
4 511-BTA04-700T Triacs 4 Amp 700 Volt marked Q1, Q2, Q3, and Q4
2 534-3517 Fuse Clips and Holders PC FUSE CLIP 5 MM
1 604-WP7104IT LED Standard HI EFF RED TRANS marked LED
5 R1,R2,R3,R4,R11 660-CF1/4C681J 1/4Watt Axial Carbon Film Resistors 680ohms 5% marked
4 660-CF1/4C181J 1/4Watt Axial Carbon Film Resistors 180ohms 5% marked R5, R6, R7 & R8
2 660-CF1/4C104J 1/4Watt Axial Carbon Film Resistors 100Kohms 5% marked R9, R10,
4 859-MOC3023 Optocomponents Optocoupler TRIAC marked U1, U2, U3 and U4
4 571-1-390261-1 IC Sockets 6P ECONOMY TIN (Optional, but worth every penny)
also marked U1, U2, U3 and U4
5 571-2828372 Terminal Blocks 5.08MM PCB MOUNT 2P

As noted above in the FUSE Section, you have a choice to make.
You only need one fuse per SSRneon.
You should always order extra fuses.

1 504-GMC-2 5mm x 20mm Medium Time Delay Fuses 125VAC 2A Med Time Delay
1 504-GMC-3 5mm x 20mm Medium Time Delay Fuses 125VAC 3A Med Time Delay
1 504-GMC-4 5mm x 20mm Medium Time Delay Fuses 125VAC 4A Med Time Delay
1 504-GMC-5 5mm x 20mm Medium Time Delay Fuses 125VAC 5A Med Time Delay
1 504-GMC-6 5mm x 20mm Medium Time Delay Fuses 125VAC 6A Med Time Delay
1 504-GMC-7 5mm x 20mm Medium Time Delay Fuses 125VAC 7A Med Time Delay

The following items are NOT available from Mouser.
You can get everything but the TA-200 from your local hardware store or home center.
See above for TA-200 sources.

2 Screw,#8x1/2" Pan Head Sheet Metal
(You can use the screws that come with the TA-200 if you cut them down)
1 TA-200 Enclosure
1 Male Plug Power Cord, Rated for 8A Minimum
4 Female Plug Power Cord, Rated for 4A Minimum

Additions for the SSRneon-G2-LED:
1 504-xxxxx 5mm x 20mm Medium Time Delay Fuses 125VAC 5A Med Time Delay
1 504-xxxxx 5mm x 20mm Medium Time Delay Fuses 125VAC 6A Med Time Delay
1 504-xxxxx 5mm x 20mm Medium Time Delay Fuses 125VAC 7A Med Time Delay

The power cords are often fashioned from standard household extension cords
with one of the ends cut off. You can also make your own with SPT wire
and 'vampire' plugs/receptacles.
</pre>

'''Other Source Voltages are possible. These are listed below.'''

----

''240VAC Operation''

Change R5, R6, R7 and R8 to 330 Ohm and replace the fuse with one rated for 240VAC (one listed is for 125VAC). However, a fuse with a rating of 7A at 250VAC is a heck of alot of power. It is perfectly okay to use a fuse with a lower rating if your overall load is small.

----

''36 VAC Operations'' for those folks ''Down Under'' using toroidal transformers...

Change R5, R6, R7 and R8 to 47 Ohm. The fuse rating is still a MAX of 7A. It does not change because the voltage has been reduced.

----

''24 VAC Operations'' for those folks ''Down Under'' using toroidal transformers...

Change R5, R6, R3 and R8 to 33 Ohm. The fuse rating is still a MAX of 7A. It does not change because the voltage has been reduced.

----

''FireGod''

If the SSRneon is going to be used with a FireGod system, Resistors R1-R4 may need to be changed. If the channel LEDs are used on the field modules AND the interface board voltage regulator is 5VDC, replace R1, R2, R3, R4, and R11 with 510 Ohm Resistors. You must also use the "Sinking Code" in the FireGod Field Modules when using the SSRneon.

== Construction Information ==

There are several 'how to build a PCB' self help guides both within this wiki and the web.

'''Here is a picture of a completed SSRneon-G2-LED:'''
[[Image:SSRneon_G2_LED_smaller.jpg]]



 

'''Here is a picture of a completed SSRneon-G2:'''
[[Image:SSRneon_G2_BUILT.jpg‎]]


This PCB has a different terminal block ------------------------------------>for the AC input line then what is shown in the BOM.
This is simply a personal preference.

== Wiring The SSRneon ==

The pin-out for the RJ-45 network cable is the same for all of the Sean Bowf derivative SSRs: 
View looking down on the component side of the PCB:
<table>
<tr>
<td align="left">[[Image:Controller_output_pinout.jpg]]</td>

<td align="left" border="1">

Controller Output Pinout

{| border="1"
| Pin Number
| Connection
|-
| 1
| +5v DC Power
|-
| 2
| Channel 1 Signal
|-
| 3
| reserved
|-
| 4
| Channel 2 Signal
|-
| 5
| reserved
|-
| 6
| Channel 3 Signal
|-
| 7
| Ground
|-
| 8
| Channel 4 Signal
|}
</td>
</tr>
</table>

The following image shows how to connect wires to the SSRneon-G2.

The AC line connects to the far left hand terminal block labeled: ''* AC Input *''

The other four terminal blocks are for the wires that will connect to your lights.
The connector labeled: ''Line'' is for the 'hot' wire.
The connector labeled: ''N'' is for the 'neutral' wire.

Your network interface cable clicks into the RJ45 connector on the top right of the board.
If all is well, you should see both neon bulbs glowing signaling AC voltage is present and flowing through the fuse. The LED should also be lit to indicate that 5 volts DC is being supplied by the lighting controller.

[[Image:Ssrneon_001.jpg‎|left|Version G2]]

.

== Original SSRneon ==

The original SSRneon was not designed for any particular enclosure; however, it will fit inside a TA-200.
It has only one neon bulb to signal the presence of AC before it passes through the fuse.
You must also wire a 100K resistor inline with the single neon bulb leads because there is no separate attachment point for the resistor.

There is an error on the board. A trace is missing. For channel three, the neutral trace is missing for the Terminal block. This can be simply remedied by putting in a jumper wire on the bottom of the board.

[[Image:SSRneon_G1_PCB.jpg]]

Two examples of a Built SSRneon (first generation)
Notice you can use terminal blocks or tabs for wire attachment.
[[Image:SSRneon_G1_built.jpg]]

[[Category:SSRez]]
[[Category:SSR]]
[[Category:DIYC Index]]

SSRneon G2-LED

2012-05-29T22:58:03Z

Jrd: Redirected page to SSRneon TA-200 Versions

#REDIRECT[[SSRneon TA-200 Versions]]

SSRneon TA-200

2012-05-29T22:56:31Z

Jrd: Redirected page to SSRneon TA-200 Versions

#REDIRECT[[SSRneon TA-200 Versions]]

24 Channel Renard with SSR Assembly Instructions

2012-02-17T05:36:00Z

Jrd: /* Renard 24 Information */

=== Renard 24 Information ===

The Renard 24 Dimmer is Frank Kostyun's 24 Channel All-In-One Christmas Lights Controller.

[http://www.kostyun.com Frank Kostyun's Renard 24 Info Page]

[http://store.kostyun.com/prestashop Frank Kostyun's Online Store for Renard 24 Co-Ops]
 
Co-Ops are run throughout the year for the purchase of boards. There are also additional co-ops run for parts, and heatsinks.

[http://http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=18 DoItYourselfChristmas.com's Group Buys Forum]

WLC Ventures now stocks the Renard 24HC [http://wlcventures.com/zencart/index.php?main_page=advanced_search_result&search_in_description=1&keyword=Renard+24HC here].

=== Schematic===

[[Media:Renard64_sch_001.pdf]]
(please note, the schematic is identical to the Renard64)

RavingLunatic created this schematic by tracing out the board. Note that this is NOT an official schematic, may have errors, and some reference designators are were derived for this schematic.

[[Media:Renard24 V33 Schematic package.pdf]]

=== Layout ===

[[Image:REN_24_25.jpg]]

=== COOP PCB V3.0 ===

[[Image:26-72.jpg]]

=== Co-Op Board 3.3 Assembly Instructions ===

For a full step by step document on how to build the Renard 24, please click the following link:

http://www.kostyun.com/PDF/building_ren_24.pdf - Renard 24 Assembly Instructions

=== Testing the v 3.3 Board===
Version 3.3 has 7 test points (TP1 to TP7)

TP1: GND 
TP2: +5VDC 
TP3: +12v 
TP4: 12vac 
TP5: 12vac 
TP6: RS485A / RJ45 Pin 5 
TP7: RS485B / RJ45 Pin 4 

=== Design Notes for v 3.3 Board===

The COMM FR LED pads are backwards - the cathode (short leg on the LED) will go into the round hole

=== Renard 24 Jumper Settings and Options ===

''Version 2.5 and Greater ''
120/240v Jumpers: Allow for setting the transformers input voltage (labeled as JP1 and JP2.) 
[[Image:120v240v.jpg]] 

Zero Cross: If on, the board will insert the zero cross signal on the RJ45 pin 3 (labeled as JP3.) This is used to send a ZC signal to another board such as a Ren64 or Ren16. 
[[Image:Zc1.jpg]] 
 

Transformer On/Off: If on, the transformer recieves power from the left power input. 
[[Image:Transformer.jpg]] 

 
''Version 3.3 and Greater ''
12v Jumpers: Located below the transformer, these can be installed to use the board in 12vac only mode (for use with MR16 LED lamps, also labeled as JP5 and JP6.) 

=== Firmware ===
All Renard Firmware is located here: [[Renard_Firmware]]
There is also pre-compiled firmware here: [http://www.kostyun.com/?page_id=139/ Renard 24/Renard 24LV firmware Page]

=== BOM ===

<pre>
PCB
1 Ren24 v3.3 Renard 24-Port PCB

Board Specific Parts:

571-7969494 1 '''See note below for v3.3'''
595-SN75176BP 2 '''RS-485 Interface ICs Bus Diff'''
511-L7805CV 1 '''LM7805 Voltage Regulator'''
821-DB102G 1 '''subsitute part 512-DF01M'''
532-7136DG 1 '''Heat Sink for 5V regulator'''
271-27K-RC 3 '''27k ohm 1/4 watt resistor'''
271-1K-RC 4 '''1k ohm 1/4 watt resistor'''
271-120-RC 1 '''120ohm 1/4 watt resistor'''
625-1N4001-E3 1 '''Standard Rectifiers Vr/50V Io/1A'''
78-1N5239B 2 '''Zener Diodes 9.1 Volt 0.5 Watt'''
838-3FD-320 1 '''Larger Transformer use part 838-3FD-420'''
782-H11AA1 1 '''Optocouplers Bi-Directional Input'''
520-TCF1843-X 1 '''Full Size Crystal Clock Oscillators DIP-14 5V 18.432MHz'''
140-HTRL25V1000-RC 1 '''Hi-Temp Radial Electrolytic Capacitors 25V 1000uF 105C'''
140-HTRL25V10-RC 1 '''Hi-Temp Radial Electrolytic Capacitors 25V 10uF 105C'''
534-3517 4 '''Fuse Clips and Holders PC FUSE CLIP 5 MM'''
504-GMA-15 2 '''5mm x 20mm Fast Acting Fuses 125VAC 15A Fast Acting'''

Parts from the Common Parts List: (Common parts are the parts that are not unique to the Ren24, and may also be used in other designs)

511-BTA08-400B 24 '''Triac Driver (24 needed) or 511-BTA04-700T more sensitive triac for LED's))'''
859-MOC3023 24 '''MOC 3023 Optocoupler'''
579-PIC16F688-I/P 3 '''Microchip PIC 16F1688'''
604-WP63ID 4 '''Red T1 3/4 LED, or any 10-30ma LED'''
604-WP1503GD 1 '''Green T1 3/4 LED or any 10-30ma LED'''
271-180-RC 24 '''180ohm 1/4 watt resistor'''
271-680-RC 29 '''680ohm 1/4 watt resistor'''
581-SA105E104MAR 5 '''.10 uF Ceramic Capacitor'''
571-9-146281-0 1 '''.100 three pin header(4 needed) Part specified is a 40 pin, cut off size that is needed.'''
571-2-382811-1 4 '''.100 Shunt (4 needed) You may also "steal" these off of old computer parts.'''
571-1-390261-2 2 '''8 pin DIP socket'''
571-1-390261-3 3 '''14 pin DIP socket'''
571-1-390261-1 26 '''Optional 6 Pin Socket for Optocoupler & H11AA1'''
571-5556416-1 2 '''RJ45 Sockets (2 needed) orientation doesn't matter. Specified part is same as the Ren64'''

PART OPTION #1 - Using Screw Down Terminals

571-2828376 6 '''6 Position Screw Down Terminal (Ren24 2.5 needs 4 of these)'''
158-P02EK508A3-E 4 '''3 Position Angled Screw Down Terminal'''
158-P02EHK508V3-E 1 '''3 Position Screw Down Terminal (power input) - higher current rating than prior part'''
158-P02EHK508V2-E 1 '''2 Position Screw Down Terminal (power input) - higher current rating than prior part'''

Spade Terminals

534-1287 53 '''Spade Terminals (52 needed for board v3.0)'''

Optional Parts for The Board:

12VAC Operation
571-9-146281-0 1 '''.100 two pin header(2 needed)'''
571-2-382811-1 2 '''.100 Shunt (2 needed) You may also "steal" these off of old computer parts.'''
838-3FD-316 0 '''Transformer is ELIMINATED from the board in this option'''

</pre>

[http://www.kostyun.com/PDF/BOM/Ren24_Bom_Mouser.txt Renard 24 Importable BOM - Screw Terminals] All parts valid 05/10/2009

==== Parts Changes From Board 2.5 to 3.3 ====

With multiple changes to the board, and the changes of parts that has occurred over time, if you still are having an older board to solder up, but still need parts - you can use a current Co-Op purchase for parts if you choose - and you will just have a few extra parts left over (and also still be able to enjoy the significant savings the co-op gets you.)
 
You will end up with:
2 to 3 jumper sets
2 extra resistors
2 extra LEDs
2 of 71-2828376 - 6 pin connector
and 4 of 158-P02EK508A3-E - 3 pin angled connector

On parts 158-P02EHK508V2-E and 158-P02EHK508V3-E - the Five Pin Terminal, it is reccommended to just cut off the pin for one of the plugs.

==== PC to Renard Cable ====

The Renard 24 board has on-board power supply circuitry and on-board zero-crossing circuitry, so all that it needs on the RJ45 cable are data signals and ground. If you are using RS232 input and connecting it directly to the PC serial port, the following cable pin outs will work:

'''Version 3.0 Board:'''
PC DB9 Pin 3 to RJ45-pin 4
PC DB9 Pin 5 to RJ45-pins 1,2,5 (pins 1 and 5 are required, pin 2 is optional).
[[Image:Ren24V3.jpg]]

If you are using a RS-232 to RS-485 converter, the pinout is Pin 5 to A+
and Pin 4 to B-. This is the same as for the Ren 16.

'''Version 2.5 Board:'''
PC DB9 Pin 3 to RJ45-pin 5
PC DB9 Pin 5 to RJ45-pins 1,2,4 (pins 1 and 4 are required, pin 2 is optional).
[[Image:Ren24v25.jpg]]

'''NOTE:''' ''The 2.5 cable will not work with the Renard16, Renard64 or Ren-C boards because pins 4 and 5 on the version 2.5 Renard24 are reversed from those other boards.''

[[Image:Db9f.gif]]
'''Female DB9 connector as if you were looking into the end of it from the outside.'''

The Renard24 3.0 or greater will pass the zero cross and power to other boards connected to it (such as a Renard64 or Renard16.)

=== Board Version History ===

Revision 1 board (unreleased, development board only)

Revision 2 board (unreleased, development board only)

Revision 2.5 board (2007 Co-Op)

Revision 3.0 board (2008 Co-Op #1 and #2)

Revision 3.1 board (unreleased, development board only)

Revision 3.3 board (2008 Co-Op #3 and 2009 Co-Ops #1 and #2)

== Revision History ==

01/20/2007 Initial Design
03/20/2007 Revision 2 submitted to test manufacturing.
07/15/2007 Changed RJ45 to comply with current Renard standards.
07/15/2007 Added additional holes for a larger transformer.
07/15/2007 Added transformer voltage selection jumpers, will allow for 120/240v operation for our friends down under.
07/15/2007 Changed fuse size to 5x20mm fuse from AG3 fuse.
07/16/2007 Added option for DIP or SMT MOC2032 optos.
08/20/2007 Version 2.5 submitted to test manufacturing.
10/01/2007 Making small adjustments based on user feedback to ease setup of board. No major changes made.
01/14/2008 Corrected RS485 pins 4/5 to match Ren16 and Ren64
01/14/2008 Minor silkscreen corrections.
01/14/2008 Increase the size of the board to add a neutral buss onto the board.
01/14/2008 Added support for either spade terminals or screw down terminals.
02/20/2008 Added power pass through on pins 7/8 and ground on pins 1/2.
07/31/2008 Added two additional diagnostic LEDs for the diagnostic firmware.
07/31/2008 Change 4 pin input to 5 pin input to allow for easy jumpering of sides.
07/31/2008 Added jumpers below transformer for 12vac use.
03/18/2009 Corrected silkscreen and pads of the Comm FR test LED

Errata for Rev 1 PCB -

1) Onboard regulator not functioning properly: needed addition of 1000uF capacator. (corrected in rev 2.0 board)
2) Outputs are out of order. (corrected in rev 2.0 board)
3) Triacs are located to close together. (corrected in rev 2.0 board)

Errata for Rev 2 PCB -

1) Outputs 17/18 are swapped. (corrected in rev 2.5 board)

Errata for Rev 2.5 PCB - (Co-Op Board)
1) RS485 traces swapped from the Ren16/Ren64 pin config. (To be corrected in Rev 3.0 Board)
2) Silkscreen needs to have some clarification done for part orientation.

Errata for Rev 3.0 PCB - (Co-Op Board)
1) Some holes to small for spade tabs
2) still some spacing issues around the voltage regulator heatsink.

Errata for Rev 3.3 PCB - (Co-Op Board)
1) COMM FR LED pads are backwards

=== Design Notes for v 2.5 Co-Op Board===

Pin 1 of the crystal is on the bottom left.

Pin 1 of the transformer is on the top left.

The cathode (striped) pin of the 1N4001 diode is on the top.

The correct designation of the capacitor on the top right is .1uF, not .1F.

The + pin of the DB102 is on the bottom right both of the ~ should be on the left.

The original parts parts list had a 100uF cap, ignore it - as its not needed (Deleted from BOM) There is a extra 1uF on the board, also not needed.

The 7805 (flat side) goes to the top of the board.

The heatsink for the 7805 should be trimmmed at the bottom to allow for proper fit.

The fuse clips are two tight for the board - now sure how this happened - I need to look into this more - as this is the part that I ordered last year and it fits fine. Use pliers to squeeze the pins together a bit and they will fit in.

The jumpers on the board are for 120/240v operation. If you don't plan on using the boards on 120v these can be hard soldered with a jumper wire.

There are two resistors that are close to the output blocks, when installing them, leave them up a bit so they can be pushed back a little bit.

[[Category:DIYC Controllers]]
[[Category:Renard]]
[[Category:Renard 24]]
[[Category:DIYC Index]]

Ren4flood

2011-12-31T03:46:38Z

Jrd: Redirected page to Ren4Flood

#REDIRECT[[Ren4Flood]]

Ren48lsd

2011-12-15T04:27:13Z

Jrd: Redirected page to Ren48LSDv3c

#REDIRECT [[Ren48LSDv3c]]

Ren-W Antenna Info

2011-12-06T05:14:01Z

Jrd: Fixed capitalization booboo.

== Overview ==
:An XBee radio module needs an antenna to be able to transmit and receive data. Depending on the type of XBee in use, the antenna may be one that is built into the radio or instead, the radio may have an antenna connector so that it may be connected to an external antenna. The examples below show the 1" whip antenna, the on-chip antenna and the XBee with an RPSMA connector, or shortened to the "sma" version of the XBee for connecting to standard Wi-Fi antennas. Not shown is the Xbee radio with the U.FL. connector which is a tiny, snap-on connector on the top of the XBee module for connecting a short U.FL. cable that has an RPSMA connector on the other end.

:::[[File:xbee_radio_modules.JPG|700px ]]

:The type of XBee module as well as the type of antenna chosen make a difference in terms of distance performance, as noted in the following chart from the manufacturer's documentation:

:::[[File:Antenna_comparisons.JPG|700px ]]

== Radiation Patterns ==
:An additional consideration is the radiation pattern for each antenna type. The radiation pattern is the horizontal area of coverage the antenna provides. Shown below from left-to-right are the the built-in 1" whip antenna, the on-chip antenna and an external antenna:

:::[[File:Built-in_whiip.JPG|250px ]] [[File:On-chip.JPG|250px ]] [[File:External_dipole.JPG|250px ]]

:In actual testing over short distances any of the antennas have proven to be adequate but if either very long or wide-area coverage is desired, the obvious choice is to use an external antenna.

== Transmission Power Losses/Gains ==
:The purest environment for the best wireless communication between to devices is where there is a direct line-of-sight distance between the transmitting antenna and the receiving antenna and there is nothing but air between the two. Trees, houses, cars, bushes, rain, plastic -- anything that is physically between the transmitting and receiving antenna will degrade the performance in some way, and it is impossible to know exactly what the effect will be without trying it. There is no formula that says a tree is worth X amount or a house is worth Y amount, because not all trees or houses are alike. Likewise, it's impossible to know exactly what effect putting the antenna inside a plastic box will have verses using an external antenna on the outside of the box except to say that an antenna outside the box will be more efficient than one inside the box because the plastic will have an effect.

:Another element that can degrade the transmission of a radio wave is the antenna cable between the transmitter (the XBee radio module itself) and its antenna. Both the length and type of cable have an effect on the transmitted power because the cable itself absorbs some of the energy. Obviously, the longer the cable, the more it will absorb. Therefore, one of the main objectives is to keep an antenna cable as short as is practical given the relative locations of the XBee radio module and its antenna. Obviously, the built-in 1" whip antenna gives such good performance because there is virtually no power loss in a cable because there isn't one! But when it comes to external antennas, cable length can become a factor.

:One way to help reclaim some of the transmitting power lost by an antenna cable is to use a high-gain wi-fi antenna. Because the XBee radio operates in the 2.4ghz spectrum, common wi-fi antennas can be used as external antennas and such antennas come in many flavors, lengths, and "gain" values. Gain values are typically measured in "dbi" or "db" numbers so that an antenna that is touted as having 6db gain would theoretically provide better performance than an antenna with only 3db gain, and in fact, 6db would be approximately twice the gain as 3db.

:An antenna with 3db gain is roughly equivalent to doubling the transmission power that arrives at the antenna connector. Therefore, if an antenna cable was so long that it absorbed 50% of the power, using a 3db gain antenna would roughly double the transmitting power of the remaining 50% power back up to 100%. Using an antenna with 6db, 9db or even a greater gain value could perhaps work even better, at least theoretically. But there comes a point of diminishing returns with matching antenna cable length and antenna gain -- it's still best to keep the cable as short as possible.

== Antenna Position and Orientation ==
:There's a reason why television and radio stations have their antennas mounted atop high poles: a high pole provides for longer line-of-sight distance. Therefore, it's logical to say that if your antenna is on the ground, it probably won't perform as well as if it were mounted six or ten feet above the ground.

:The orientation of the antenna to the ground is also important because radio waves emit outward from the antenna's radiating element. One of the weakest points is the tip: aiming with the tip of an antenna generally yields poor results because not much is emitted from the tip. The best transmission/reception combination is when the transmitting and receiving antennas are parallel to one another. If the tranmitting antenna is vertical to the ground, the receiving antenna should be vertical to the ground, too. Therefore, if you require long distance, you'll want to pay attention to the orientation of the antenna to ensure efficient communication.

== Let's Be Practical ==
:'''Good news:''' in actual practice, if your receiving XBee Pro radios are less than roughly 75 feet from the transmitter, it doesn't seem to matter what kind of antenna you use, whether they're inside or outside of a plastic case or whether they're laying on the ground or the antennas are parallel with one another. Therefore, for most situations, it seems that either the 1" whip or even the on-chip antenna should suffice for most users.

:'''More good news:''' the lower-powered regular XBee module has the same antenna options as the pro model, and if your transmission distances are roughly 50-feet or less, you can save some money by using the regular modules instead. Also consider that using a high gain antenna with a regular XBee effectively boosts its power and sensitivity so that a regular XBee with a 9db antenna may actually perform like an XBee Pro with a 1" whip. (Of course, you'll have to weigh the plusses and minusses here -- the cost of the antenna plus the regular XBee may actually exceed the cost of the XBee Pro itself...)

:'''Still more good news:''' All XBee modules have the same pin connections so that regular and pro versions can easily be swapped-out provided that (1) you've used the plug-in headers and have not soldered-in your XBees and (2) the radios to be swapped have the same antenna type. If you use the Ren-Ws in global broadcast mode, remember that the addressing is in the Renard controller and not in the XBee itself for all channels controlled from the same COM port. Therefore, the XBees modules are interchangeable for all controllers on the same COM port and if you move a display to a far corner of your yard, you can easily swap out a regular XBee with an XBee Pro when more distance is needed. Obviously it gets a lot easier if all of your XBee modules are identical, but if you're careful with where you place them in your display, you can save money by mixing and matching regular with pro models.

:'''Important concept to know:''' XBee radios perform best when they can "see" each other in open air -- that nothing whatsoever lies between the transmitting XBee and the receiving XBee. The more objects, or the thicker or denser the objects between the radios (such as a roof, tree, metal siding or even an automobile parked in the driveway), the more difficult it will be for them to communicate with each other. This usually results in misfired lights or if severe enough, total failure. Some obstructions can usually be tolerated, and it is certainly possible for XBee radios mounted inside a house to communicate with others outside the house, but you'll have to do some of your own testing to know for sure. An example of what NOT to do is provided below.

== An Example of What NOT to Do ==

:Here's an example of my own attempts to make something work that couldn't possibly work. The sympton was a remote Ren64 controller with a Ren-W that was behaving quite erratically and rarely in sync with the rest of the lights. Sometimes it wouldn't fire any channels at all. This Ren-W/Ren64 controlled the lights on the entire left front side of the house (4 windows, 1 wreath, 1 tree, and sets of net lights on bushes) so when it was misbehaving, it was pretty obvious, and really ugly to watch.

::The transmitter is located inside the garage against the back wall of a cabinet. It's a Rev-6 Ren-W board with an XBPro - SMA version, with an 11" (9db gain) wi-fi whip antenna, pointed vertically. The house has aluminum siding on all outside walls so I thought maybe the 9db gain whip antenna would overcome the attenuation from the aluminum siding.

::The receiving Ren-W (also a Rev-6 board) was attached to a Ren64 and inside a CG-2000 case, sitting on the ground behind bushes in front of the house, about 75 feet away (straight line). The XBPro radio inside had the 1" mini-whip antenna, and it was aligned vertically to match the transmitter.

::The photo of the front of the house has notations of where the transmitter and receiver were. The second photo is an overhead drawing of what the radio wave had to go through to get to the receiver. As it turns out, I was trying to transmit through 4 layers of aluminum siding, 6 walls, through a reinforced concrete front step, through electrical interference caused by at least two of the wreaths on the front of the house and two trees in the entryway, and of course the lights around the windows. Also, consider that the bushes the receiving Ren-W/Ren64 was under were also covered with net lights. I was asking the XBee radios to do the impossible.

::[[File:Problem-1.JPG | 400px]] [[File:Problem-2.JPG | 400px]]

:: The eventual solution was to mount an 11" wi-fi whip antenna onto the top of a 2' length of PVC, and place it near the center of the yard and run a wi-fi antenna extension cable from the Ren-W in the controller box to the new pole-mounted antenna out in the yard. After installing the new antenna, the problem was completely solved because the obstruction ceated by the multiple walls, concrete and other electrical devices that were between the transmitter and receiver had been eliminated.

:: The bottom line of this example is that careful consideration must be made as to where you put the transmitter and receiver(s) so as to maximize the direct, line-of-sight communication between the units as best as is possible. The more impediments you place between the transmitter and receiver, the more misfires you'll have.

== Antenna Questions/Answers ==
'''What are the part numbers for the various XBee antenna types?'''
:Mouser's part numbers for XBee Pro modules currently are:
::*888-XBP24-AWI-001 --- 1" whip antenna
::*888-XBP24-ACI-001 --- on-chip antenna
::*888-XBP24-AUI-001 --- U.FL. antenna connector
::*888-XBP24-ASI-001 --- RPSMA antenna connector

:Mouser's part numbers for regular XBee modules currently are:
::*888-XB24-AWI-001 --- 1" whip antenna
::*888-XB24-ACI-001 --- on-chip antenna
::*888-XB24-AUI-001 --- U.FL. antenna connector
::*888-XB24-ASI-001 --- RPSMA antenna connector

'''How much will a 12-foot antenna cable affect my power output and distance?'''
::I have no clue. Try it and find out.

'''Can I tape an antenna onto a window?'''
::Sure. It's a free country, do what you like. A glass window would probably be preferred to mounting the antenna behind a wall that has metal siding on the outside of the house.

'''I have a location problem for the transmitter as my PC is in the basement. Will an inside transmitter still work from there?'''
::There's a reason why radio stations use antenna towers -- radio antennas are rarely very successful when they're underground. If it works at all, it probably won't transmit very far. Either mount the Ren-W in a higher location and run a longer cat5 cable from your PC to it (preffered solution) or a less adviseable solution is to use a long antenna cable from the Ren-W's XBee to an antenna mounted above ground. In the latter solution, the long antenna cable will eat up some of the transmission power while the former solution will be more efficient.

'''Can I use an XBee USB Explorer board as my transmitter?'''
::Yes, by all means. It's a ''GREAT'' transmitter. It appears to your computer as a serial port and you configure Vixen to send the output to that serial port. Works great!

'''Since my USB cable is only 3 feet long, can I get a longer USB cable so I can mount my XBee USB Explorer board upstairs?'''
::Yes, there are many inexpensive USB extenders available that can work, although making a long USB cable probably won't because USB has some limitations there. USB extenders generally work by first converting the USB signal into RS485 and then reconverting it on the other end from RS485 back into a USB connection. One such product is the USB Extension Cable, product #6042 from Monoprice ([http://www.monoprice.com www.monoprice.com]). This adapter provides a way to extend a USB connection up to 150 feet.

'''Will it work to put the transmitter inside the house and the receivers outside?'''
::Maybe.... well probably.... but maybe not... It depends on how thick your house's walls are and what they're made of, how far it is to the receiving Ren-Ws, whether the receivers are inside boxes, whether they're on the ground, how high your antenna is, what kind of antenna you use... ''uhhh... this is DIY... did you bother to read any of the above information???''

'''I'm still confused. Why can't somebody just tell me what to do?'''
::It's not possible to quote a setup that's guaranteed to work; after all, this is DIY! But if you want to cover all the bases, purchase only the XBee Pro modules with the RPSMA connector, then for each of the XBee modules purchase one of the highest-gain wi-fi antennas you can possibly find; purchase some short, medium and long antenna extension cables with appropriate RPSMA connectors on both ends. This will give you the most flexibility with the radios that have the most transmitting power and the most sensitive receivers and your own experimentation of placement of the Ren-W modules and antenna orientation will likely solve the problem.

'''Additional Ren-W Links'''
*[[Renard Wireless Converter]]
*[[Ren-W BOM and Construction]]
*[[Ren-W Configuration Concepts]]
*[[Ren-W XBee Radio Configuration]]
*[[Ren-W Questions/Answers]]
*[[Ren-W Troubleshooting]]
*[[Ren-W Antenna Info]]
*[[Ren-W Controller Heater]]
*[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8102 Ren-W Topic on the DIYC Forums]

[[Category:Ren-W]]
[[Category:DIYC Index]]

FM02

2011-12-06T04:48:20Z

Jrd: Redirected page to Vastelec FM02

#REDIRECT[[Vastelec FM02]]

Vastelec FM02

2011-12-06T02:23:53Z

Jrd: Moved period up to end of sentence for schematic.

==The FM Transmitter with DIY possibilities ==
[[Image:FM02_beauty_shot.jpg|FM-02]]
 
[[Image:Fm02_beauty_shot_2.jpg|thumb|right|click on the picture for a larger version]]
[[Image:Fm02_beauty_shot_3.jpg|thumb|right|click on the picture for a larger version]]

The FM02 is a two board FM transmitter. It accepts a stereo audio source and outputs a stereo FM broadcast signal on the frequency shown on the LED display. It comes just as shown in the picture above.

It is rated at 30mw (that's milli-watts) of transmission power. For most Christmas DIYers this is a nearly perfect amount of power. It will transmit a clear signal for about 2 blocks or 1/4 mile. Why is this good? Because it is illegal in the USA to transmit other then very low amounts of FM radiation without an FCC license.

Skip to this section for more details: [[http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=Vastelec_FM02#Why_you_should_care_about_the_power_of_your_transmitter FCC Rules]]




The FM02 is not a complete unit ready for use.
Instead, it bridges the gap between an out-of-the-box solution, and a build-your-own unit that starts with a bare PCB and a bag of parts.

The FM02 is very small, but packs in a nice set of features. 
Key to these is the use of PLL (Phase Locked Loop) technology. PLL keeps the transmitter locked into the designated transmitting frequency without it drifting up or down. This frequency drift WILL occur on other FM transmitters without PLL as the temperature around the unit goes up or down.

The second key feature is the fact that the transmitting frequency is maintained even after power is turned off and back on.


The FM02 is a very sophisticated assembly. Building a unit of this capability and size would be nearly impossible for most DIY'ers.

So, to create a usable FM transmitter, the FM02 needs some help. The builder of the transmitter will take the FM02 and use it as the corner stone of a complete transmitter.

You will need the following items added to your FM02:
- Power. For details, see the POWER section below. 100ma is enough current.
- An Antenna. Never power your unit without an antenna.
- A mounting enclosure. You will need to mount the FM02 boards somewhere safe and dry.
- Connection to a stereo Audio Source. The FM02 has a 3.5mm audio jack.

== About VAST Electronics & Product Warranty==
[http://www.vastelec.com/Low_Power_FM_Transmitter_V-FM02.htm Vendor's Website]

[http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/images/f/f7/FM-Transmitter.pdf Data Sheet]

VAST warranties the FM02 for two years. The trick with this warranty is that it requires the product to be returned for repair to VAST in China. ''IF'' you can catch a group buy in progress on doityourselfchristmas.com, you can also request a replacement when that order is placed with VAST.

== Power Requirements ==
[[Image:SURE_lm317.jpg|thumb|right|click on the picture for a larger version]]

''Do NOT power it up without an antenna.'' You don't need to have your 'real' antenna ready for this. You can put an sma-to-BNC adapter on and then stick a 12" piece of wire into the center of the BNC connector. This will dissipate the RF energy just fine. Just be sure you don't enlarge the hole inside the BNC.


''DO NOT apply anything GREATER then REGULATED 9V-16V DC to your unit. 12V DC is the ideal voltage to shoot for.'' If you aren't sure, then ask for help in the forums. Use a meter to check the voltage first. If all you have is a wall-wart that is labeled 12V, then that is most likely NOT regulated. A simple test of the output voltage with a meter will tell the tale.
I use one of the voltage regulators from Sure Electronics with my unit (Part number:PS-SP12113). These are about $5 online.

While the unit will 'run' on the voltages noted above, '''you should try to run it on 12V.'''
If you operate the unit at a reduced voltage, this only drops the mean voltage feeding the chip and thus drops the chips ability to function correctly. By turning down the operating voltage, (that is one way to reduce that hissing pilot level), but your also reducing the correct operating voltage for not just the FM chip, but the microprocessor, the PLL, the display, the final RF amp, the whole thing, not to mention reduced range and added distortions in the audio paths within the TX and FM chip itself.

A good example of this is taking a portable battery operated radio and put a weak battery in it and hear how distorted and low volume the audio is compared to a fresh correct voltage battery.

You need very little power for an FM02. A power supply rated at only 100ma is sufficient.


When you connect power to the FM02 it is '''VERY''' important that you get your positive(+) and your negative(-) correct.

'''If you hook up the power incorrectly, you can easily damage/ruin the unit.'''


== Do you have a HUM ? ==

Many folks will experience some ''HUM'' in the transmitted audio. This is normal. The good news is that you should be able to eliminate this hum with the use of a ''Ferrite Bead.''

(See ''Audio'' Section below for poor audio quality problems)


(See the ''Ways to improve the sound quality for Advanced Users'' Section below if you hear a 'shhhhhhhhing' sound)


If you look at the tech that is already in your house, you will see these beads on lots of things. They are in power cords, and even ethernet cables. I get mine for free this way. I just cut them out of these cords.
If you work in an office, you can usually go to the cube of the LAN/Networking guys and ask them for an excess power cord with one of these 'bumps' in the cord. They usually have dozens of extras laying around.

As far as size, you want to be able to wrap the wire through the hole and around the perimeter 3 times for maximum effect. You also need to wrap it tightly and secure it in place with a nylon tie wrap. So, it depends on the size of the wire that comes out of your wall wart, you need to have a diameter that can fit three wraps of the wire and the tie.

If you use a Wall Wart for power, you absolutely need a ferrite bead on the power cord coming out of the wall wart.

It is also a good idea to put a bead on the audio cable coming out of the PC.

The beads should be placed on the FM02 end of the cable.

Sometimes, it helps to put a ferrite bead on the audio cable between the PC and transmitter.

'''NOTE''': it never hurts to put one or more ferrite beads on your cables. They may or may not eliminate your ''HUM'', but they never make it worse.

Some Beads split in half, some don't !
[[Image:Ferrite_1.jpg|left|A Split Ferrite bead]]
[[Image:Ferrite_2.jpg|right|A multi wrap Ferrite bead]]

There are some good pictures in the wiki-pedia-:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ferrite_bead

== Audio ==
[[Image:3.5mm_stereo_plug.jpg|right|thumb|3.5mm stereo plug]]

The FM02 has a standard 3.5mm stereo jack for the wire that is carrying your audio signal.

There is one key point about the audio.
It works best with a ''line level'' audio input.
The ''Audio Out'' jack on a PC is NOT ''line level''.
Line Level is a very low volume level signal.
The Volume level on your PC needs to be set very low, barely audible.
If you ''overdrive'' the audio signal, it will result in a FM transmission that will sound distorted.

.

== Schematic and PCB layout ==

[[Image:FM02_Schematic_small_pic.jpg|right|schematic]]

The schematic and PCB layout are documented in a .pdf file.

This document shows the electronic board schematic and the PCB layout for the main transmitter board.

What is not shown is the information for the 'Display' board of this two board set.





[[http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/images/1/1a/FM02_Schematic.pdf Click Here for the full Schematic & PCB layout File]].


== Detailed Board Dimensions ==

'''Outline of the 'display' board.'''

[[Image:VAST_FM-02_Display_Board_Dimensions.jpg |right|board dims]]



'''The second board has the same physical outline dimensions. It also lines up with the 4 corner mounting holes.'''



[[Image:Vast_transmitter_layout_component_board.jpg‎ |right|board dims 2]]






'''Here is a pdf file that contains a scale outline that will serve as a template for the display board. You would use this to create your own bezel if you want to dress-up your installation:''' [[http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/images/e/e2/FM02_cutout_layout.pdf Bezel Template]]

== Antenna ==

The FM02 has an antenna connection that will look a bit unusual to most folks.
It is known as an '''''SMA''''' type of connector.

Most DIY'ers will want to convert this to the '''''BNC''''' type of connector because BNC components are easier to find.
The converter shown below will correctly hook to the FM02. SMA is the smaller gold connector.

[[Image:FM02_sma_to_BNC_converter.jpg |center|smatobnc]]


''' You will need to buy or make an antenna. There are MANY different designs for antennas. A large number of DIYers have made a type of antenna known as a dipole. This is an easy to make antenna that will serve almost anyone's needs. Here is a link to a pdf with instructions to make your own:
[http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/images/a/a7/How_to_make_a_dipole_antenna.pdf How to Make a Dipole Antenna]

== What Frequency to Use ==

This is real simple, go to this website and find a frequency that is unused.
If there are no unused frequency's, then pick one that is not very powerful and
get your radio out and check it out. If you can't pick up any radio stations at your house, odds
are no one will complain when you start broadcasting on that frequency.

'''
http://www.radio-locator.com/ '''

== Where can I get one of these wonderful FM transmitters ? ==

These come up as group buys on the [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?18-Group-Buys DIYC forum] from time to time.

They may also be available at [http://wlcventures.com/zencart/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=4&products_id=19&zenid=lhabueje8vmh5n92eb5c4m9t86 WLC Ventures].

They have also been seen for sale on eBay from seller: HLLY.

== RDS hookup information ==

This section will grow over time.
For now, here is a picture of hooking the pira mini-RDS unit up to an FM02

The green spot on the PCB is the RDS data hookup point.

The red spot is a section of the PCB that was scrapped away revealing the copper.
This is used a a soldering point for the ground.

[[Image:FM02_RDS_connection.jpg |center|fm02rds]]

Another View of the GREEN RDS connection spot:
Notice, the insert showing the full schematic of the hookup.
Three capacitors are needed as noted.

[[Image:FM02_RDS_picture_diagram.jpg |center|fm02rds]]

'''Additional Modifications'''


This optional modification is noted on the pira mini-RDS datasheet, but not implemented on the mini-RDS board from pira:

You can add a status LED to the mini-RDS board between pin 1 and ground, with a 2.2k Ohm resistor.

It blinks +- once per second when on, and really fast / almost steady on when transmitting RDS data to the transmitter...

.

== Why you should care about the transmitting power of your transmitter ==

It's real simple: Do not transmit on a channel that is already in use by a commercial entity that can be heard in your location.
The easiest way to do that is to not buy more transmitter then you need.

That is why the FM02 is such a good choice. Below is the official FCC (USA) verbiage discussing low power FM transmissions.

''"'''FCC REGULATIONS FOR THE NON LICENSED OPERATION OR RADIO BROADCASTING'''"

PART15:

Unlicensed operation on the AM and FM radio broadcast bands is permitted for some extremely low powered devices covered under Part 15 of the FCC's rules. On FM frequencies, these devices are limited to an effective service range of approximately 200 feet (61 meters). See 47 CFR (Code of Federal Regulations) Section 15.239, and the July 24, 1991 Public Notice. On the AM broadcast band, these devices are limited to an effective service range of approximately 200 feet (61 meters). See 47 CFR Sections 15.207, 15.209, 15.219, and 15.221. These devices must accept any interference caused by any other operation, which may further limit the effective service range. For more information on Part 15 devices, please see OET Bulletin No. 63 ("Understanding the FCC Regulations for Low-Power, Non-Licensed Transmitters").''

== Ways to improve the sound quality for Advanced Users ==

Some folks want to create the best possible quality sound from their transmitters.
It is possible to hear a small 'shhhhhhhhh-ing' sound in the background of the transmitted sound.

The "shhhhh" issue is not a power supply problem, or audio source problem. The problem is the 19Khz pilot level on the BH1415 chip.

I recommend everyone download the BH1415 data sheet and look at the chip's block diagram and pin layout in order to follow along in solving this "shhhhh" problem.

Pin 19 is the 19Khz pilot tone level. By default, this pin is at a high capacitance state when left open. This pin adjusts the 19Khz pilot level. When it is left unconnected, the pilot level is 30+ percent above the standard 10 percent of modulating the carrier. If the pin is connected to a surface chip cap, this cap may be open or has changed value thus the 19Khz level is still too high.

In order to correct this, a proper modulation monitor or O-scope capable of 100Mhz or more will be needed to adjust properly.

The best capacitor value I have found that brings the 19Khz pilot level down to its standard 10 percent level is a 220pF. The pilot rides at around 11.3 percent. A far cry from the 30+ percent.

Connect the capacitor between Pin 19 of the BH1415 chip and ground.

[[Image:BH1415_block_diagram.jpg |center|fm02block]]

Do not run your FM02 unit at a reduced voltage to correct this shhhhhhing. This only drops the mean voltage feeding the chip and thus drops the chips ability to function correctly. By turning down the operating voltage, that is one way to reduce that hissing pilot level, but your also reducing the correct operating voltage for not just the FM chip, but the microprocessor, the PLL, the display, the final RF amp, the whole thing, not to mention reduced range and added distortions in the audio paths within the TX and FM chip itself.

A good example of this is taking a portable battery operated radio and put a weak battery in it and hear how distorted and low volume the audio is compared to a fresh correct voltage battery. The same happens to the FM02 when power is reduced to try to solve the hissing. It is not solving it at all, it is merely "covering it up" but it is still there and will always be there until the pilot level is correctly adjusted.

The reason why some transmitters using the BH1415 chip have the hissing is because the pilot is left to run wild so that at further distances the stereo transmission will still be received at those greater distances than it would be when the pilot is adjusted to standard. So moral here is either hassy hissy stereo at a distance, or excellent clean smooth sounding stereo audio within the intended range of these low power devices. I would go with the latter because all that hissing over driven pilot level is also decreasing your carrier power and reducing your range anyway.

'''Specifics about the Modification'''

I used a plain ol ceramic disc cap, clipped the leads so they would be short but long enough to allow folding of the capacitor on its side so it rests on the board.

Now on some designs and board layouts, Pin 19 has solder on it, it is soldered to the foil pad on the board, and nothing else. Others have a chip capacitor from Pin 19 to ground, and a few of those have too high a value of capacitor for the proper pilot level.

Solder one lead of the cap to Pin 19 at it's very end to avoid over-heating the pin. Then solder the other end of the capacitor to a nearby ground on the board. If necessary you can run a short wire for the ground connection to the 220pf capacitor.

Use an iron no greater than a 15 watt or over-heating of the pin will result and possibly damage the FM chip.

Also note that the lead of the capacitor that connects to Pin 19 MUST be short as possible. If this lead is too long, it will pick up and inject clock pulse noise onto the pilot carrier. Secure the capacitor with a dab of silicone or putty.

Ren-W BOM and Construction

2011-11-07T02:37:42Z

Jrd: Linked Dave's name to his forum profile

== '''Master Parts List (with Ren-W Part# and Mouser Part#)''' ==

*Qty -- Description (Ren-W Part)
*1 or 2 -- RJ45 jacks, side or top entry (J1, J2) Mouser# 571-5520251-4 (side entry) 571-5556416-1 (top entry)
*6 -- 2-pin vertical PCB headers (JP1-JP6) Mouser# 538-22-03-2021 (fewer may be necessary – see note below)
*5 -- 1 uf capacitors (non-polarized - C1, C2, C4, C5, C6) Mouser# 810-FK24Y5V1H105Z (Note: 1 uf 16v electrolytic capacitors may be substituted if you wish; polarity markings are provided on the board as a convenience if you use electrolytics.)
*1 -- 100uf, 16v electrolytic capacitor (C3) Mouser# 647-UVR1C101MDD
*1 -- 3.3v 1w zener diode (D1) Mouser# 583-1N4728A-B
*1 -- 33 ohm ¼w resistor (R1) Mouser# 291-33-RC (299-33-RC 1/8 watt is also okay)
*1 -- 1k ohm ¼w resistor (optional) (R2) Mouser# 291-1K-RC (299-1K-RC 1/8 watt is also okay)
*1 -- LED (any color – optional) (D2) Mouser# 604-WP7104GT (green transparent)
*1 -- 16-pin DIP socket (optional) Mouser# 571-1-390261-4
*1 -- 3.3v positive voltage regulator (U1) Mouser# 595-UA78M33CKCSE3
*1 -- RS-232 Interface ICs Dual EIA-232 Driver Mouser# 595-MAX232IN
*1 -- XBee Wireless RF modules (Pro version w/1" whip antenna is Mouser# 888-XBP24-AWI-001. The SMA version is #888-XBP24-ASI-001)
*2 -- Female SL Connectors (optional) Mouser# 538-16-02-0102
*1 -- Ren-W circuit board (etch your own in the true DIYC spirit, or contact [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/member.php?3044-dirknerkle '''dirknerkle'''] for pre-made boards)
*2/4 -- 2mm x 10-pin XBee female headers (H1-H4) Mouser# M22-7131042 or also available from SparkFun Electronics as part# PRT-08272 ($1 each)
*1 -- Ren-C users: Snap Choke Core Balun - Radio Shack part# 273-0069

'''SUBSTITUTE PARTS'''
* 3.3v voltage regulator: Texas Instruments part # UA78M33CKCS
* RS-232 chip: Mouser part #: 595-MAX232N
* RS-232 chip: Mouser part #: 595-MAX232EIN

'''Rev6 board BOM Differences'''
::The Rev6 board needs only one RJ45 jack and only two XBee female headers. Otherwise, parts are the same.

:* Here's a direct link to the complete Mouser BOM: [http://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=e1460aa043 Ren-W BOM]
:* Here's a direct link to the Express PCB source file for the STANDARD board: [http://dirknerkle.clubdata.com/pcb/ren-w-master.pcb Ren-W STD PCB file]
:* Here's a direct link to the Express PCB source file for the SMA board: [http://dirknerkle.clubdata.com/pcb/ren-w-master-SMA.pcb Ren-W SMA PCB file]
:* Here's a direct link to the Express PCB source file for the Rev6 board: [http://dirknerkle.clubdata.com/pcb/ren-w-rev6.pcb Ren-W Rev6 PCB file]
:* Here's a direct link to the schematic for the Ren-W board: [http://dirknerkle.clubdata.com/pcb/ren-w_schematic.jpg Ren-W_Schematic.JPG file]

:* Go to [http://www.expresspcb.com www.expresspcb.com] to download their free PCB software to open the PCB file.

== '''PCB Parts Layout''' ==

: The only important difference between the standard board and the SMA board is the orientation of the XBee modules. The standard board has the modules pointing upward; the SMA version has them pointing downward to allow for the long RPSMA antenna connector. Pay careful attention to the orientation of the XBee when plugging it into the board. If you have the standard board, plugging in an XBee module with an SMA connector upside-down will NOT WORK. Likewise, plugging in an XBee with a 1" whip the wrong way on an SMA board won't work, either.

: The latest Rev6 version of the board has space for only one XBee module and uses a jumper to make the board be either a transmitter (TX) or receiver (RX). The Rev6 board cannot function as a repeater board as it has only one RJ45 jack, but it is about 30% smaller in size and has fewer parts so it's slightly less expensive to build.

::[[File:Ren-w_parts_location.JPG |600px]] [[File:Renwrev6.jpg |225px]]

== '''Construction Step-by-step''' ==
::[[File:Ren-w_build-1.JPG |400px]]

: The construction steps are identical for both the standard and SMA version of the board, and the Rev6 board uses the same part numbers. Caution - the pins on these headers are quite tiny and require very little solder. Too much solder may flow down and fill the pin hole in the header itself and prevent plugging in the XBee later on.

:1. Solder 2mm female headers at locations H1, H2, H3, H4 or:
::: TX only: only H1, H2 are required
::: RX only: only H3, H4 are required
::: E-mode repeater: only H1, H2 are required.
::: Normal repeater mode: all four headers required

::[[File:Ren-w_build2.JPG |400px]]

:2. Solder the 16-pin DIP socket into the MAX232 location. Note the position of pin 1; the notch faces to the right. If no socket is to be used, solder the MAX232 directly to the Ren-W board; verify the pin orientation before soldering.

::[[File:Ren-w_build3.JPG |400px]]

:3. Solder capacitors C1 and C2. You may wish to straighten the leads to fit the holes better such as the example at the bottom of the picture. There are no polarity concerns for non-polarized capacitors. (Note: The polarity markings on the board are for the convenience of users who are using electrolytic capacitors instead of the non-polarized type.

::[[File:Ren-w_build4.JPG |400px]]

:4. OPTIONAL: Solder non-polarized capacitors C4, C5 and C6. Like C1 and C2, if electrolytic capacitors are used, observe the + polarity markings on the board. (Note: C4, C5 and C6 do a lot to clean up the RS-232 signal the Ren-W provides to the Renard controller, and these are essential if connecting the Ren-W to a Ren-C/595 or Ren-C/Grinch. However, in testing, C4, C5 and C6 were proven to be unnecessary when using the Ren-W with Renard SS controllers.)

::[[File:Ren-w_build5.JPG |400px]]

:5. Solder electrolytic capacitor C3. Note the polarity: the + side into the square pad (top) closer to jack J2 which means the stripe on the capacitor faces DOWN.

::[[File:Ren-w_build6.JPG |400px]]
:6. Solder 2-pin headers JP1, JP2, JP3, JP4, JP5, JP6. (Note: JP1 and JP2 are optional.) The header pins are a tight fit; be careful as you wiggle them into their respective holes.

::[[File:Ren-w_build7.JPG |400px]]

:7. Solder RJ45 jacks J1, J2
::: TX only: only J1 is required
::: RX only: only J2 is required
::: Normal repeater and E-mode repeater: both J1 and J2 are required

::[[File:Ren-w_build8.JPG |400px]]

:8. Solder zener diode D1. Note the polarity – on the SMA board, the band on the diode must be facing up, next to header JP6. On the Rev6 board the band on the diode must be facing DOWN, next to header H2.

::[[File:Ren-w_build9.JPG |400px]]

:9. Solder resistors R1 (orange-orange-black) and R2 (brown-black-red). R2 is only required if the optional power LED (D2) is used. No polarity concerns.

::[[File:Ren-w_build10.JPG |400px]]

:10. Solder the optional power LED at position D2. Note the polarity – the flat side/cathode/shorter lead faces to the mounting hole immediately to the right of D2.

::[[File:Ren-w_build11.JPG |400px]]

:11. Solder the 3.3v voltage regulator U1. On the SMA board the metal heat sink side faces toward JP2 (top); on the Rev6 board the metal heat sink side faces toward C3 (right). The need for an additional heat sink is highly unlikely as the supply voltage is only 5vdc. At this point, applying power to the SMA board should light the LED (if installed) and the voltage test points in the middle of the board should register the proper voltages. The Rev6 board requires that the XBee radio be in the sockets; the LED will then blink showing the XBee radio is operational. Disconnect power before continuing with the next step.

::[[File:Ren-w_complete.JPG |400px]]

:12. Install the MAX232 and XBee module(s) in their respective sockets: use the XBee RX side for a receive-only board, the XBee TX side for a transmit-only board. Note the position of pin 1.

:13. Install optional jumper shunt at JP6 if necessary. This bypasses the R1 resistor (33 ohms) and allows a weaker RS-485 signal through to the XBee radio in transmit mode. Normally, this jumper shunt is not necessary.

:14. Install optional jumper shunt at JP5 if necessary. This makes the Ren-W into an E-Mode repeater where a single XBee module in the TX position serves as both the receiver and transmitter.

:15. CAUTION: Never place jumper shunts across JP1 or JP2!

:16. CAUTION: Never place jumper shunts across either pin of JP3 to either pin of JP4!

:17. REV-6 board only: install 2-pin jumper headers at the TX and RX locations.

== '''Powering the Ren-W board''' ==

:::::[[File:Ren-w_jumper-connector.JPG |200px]]

::* A nifty solution that retains the SS controller’s ability to use the diagnostic LEDs is to solder each end of a single strand of cat5 wire to an open jumper shunt such as the photo above. Alternately, you may wish to make your own power cable using two female SL connectors; use a small piece of shrink tubing around the connector for insulation safety. (Both pins on the Ren-W’s JP3 header are +5vdc; both JP4 pins are ground connections.)

:::::[[File:Ren-w_mount3.JPG |500px]]

::* With WayneJ's SS line of boards, the Ren-W draws its +5vdc power from the left pin of the board’s JP3 header (photo above); the ground power connection is made when the Ren-W is connected to either of the SS controller's RJ45 jacks. If you used the open jumper shunts to make your cable, simply plug the shunts into the JP3 headers on both the SS controller and the Ren-W.

:::::[[File:Ren24LV_5vdc.JPG |250px]]

::* With Frank Kostyun's Ren24 ver 3.3, +5vdc can be taken at TP2 (test point 2). You may drill a small hole in the pad if you wish to solder-in a single pin header. With the Ren24LV (photo above) the red circles show places where 5vdc can be found: TP2 and the "Power Tie" (both circled in red in the above photo). The power tie includes six places for jumper header pins, the TOP LEFT of which carries +5vdc (red arrow) Remember, ground is made automatically when the cat5 cable is plugged in.

:::::[[File:Ren64_5vdc.JPG |450px]]

::* With Wjohn's Ren64 (version XC5) there is a small, unmarked +5vdc test point immediately below pin 8 of U5 (the rightmost ST485BN chip) and just left of R14. Solder-in a single header pin if you like such as the example above (red circle).

:::::[[File:Ren_c.JPG |450px]]

::* With Wjohn's Ren-C, +5vdc can be taken from the header pin immediately to the left of the Q1 transistor. The pin is marked VCC. Another +5vd VCC location is the 2nd from the top pin of the 6-pin JP6 programming header. Either location is fine. Both are marked with red arrows in the photo above.

::* With Budude's Ren48LSD, if you power the LSD board with 12vdc or less you can solder a single header pin into the test point that's next to the .1uf capacitor that resides between the voltage regulator and the 2200uf capacitor. The Ren-W's voltage regulator may get a bit warm but the MAX232 chip can handle 12vdc power and you should be okay. However, if you power the LSD board with more than 12vdc, you must tap power from the +5v side of one of the .1uf capacitors connected to pin 1 of any of the PIC16F688 chips. While not as handy as using the test point, it's a safer and more accurate way to power the Ren-W from the Ren48LSD.

== '''Connecting the Ren-W to a Renard SS Controller''' ==

:* Connect JP3 to JP3 on the SS to power the Ren-W (5vdc).
:* Ren-W as a transmit only node: connect only J1 to J1 on the SS. Leave J2 on the Ren-W unconnected.
:* Ren-W as a receive only node: connect only J2 to J2 on the SS. Leave J1 on the Ren-W unconnected.
:* Ren-W as a standard repeater: connect J1 to J1 and J2 to J2 on the SS. (A standard repeater has TWO XBee modules.)
:* Ren-W as an E-mode repeater: connect J1 to J1 and J2 to J2 on the SS, add a jumper on the Ren-W’s JP5 and make sure the Ren-W has only a single XBee module plugged into the TX (left) position. (An E-Mode repeater has only ONE XBee module.)
:* On the SS controller, you may find that the board functions better with JP1 not jumpered (RS-485 mode)but JP2 is jumpered. You can always try JP1 jumpered, but it may not be as effective.
:* If connecting to the RS-IN of a Ren-C, be sure to affix a snap choke core balun on the cat5 cable (Radio Shack part# 273-0069).

:* Rev6 board only: since this board has only one RJ45 jack (J2), it can be plugged into either the J1 or J2 jack on the Renard controller. If using the Rev6 as a receiver, place a jumper shunt on the RX header and connect J2 to the RS INPUT jack of the controller. If using the Rev6 as a transmitter, place a jumper shunt on the TX header and connect the Rev6's J2 to the RS OUTPUT jack of the controller. Note that the Rev6 board cannot be used as a "repeater" board which both receives and retransmits out. However, it can be used to transmit from a wired Renard controller to another Ren-W. Of course, a Rev6 can also be a main transmitter board at the PC as well. IMPORTANT: Rev-6 works best when JP2 (the termination resistor) on the SS board is open and not shunted.

== '''What are JP1, JP2 and JP6 used for?''' ==

::JP1 is an optional RS-485 input connection. Because an XBee module can be programmed via serial communications using a simple AT commands from within a terminal program such as Windows Hyperterminal, these headers provide external access to the R1IN (pin 13, JP1) and T1OUT (pin 14, JP2) serial connections of the MAX232 chip, which in turn, communicates with the XBee module. Both data and ground are provided; ground is the right pin and is marked with G. Using the XCTU software and an XBee programmer board is vastly more convenient that manually configuring a module using AT commands but Digi provides ample documentation for AT command line programming. You can also measure the input voltage of the RS-485 signal at JP1; an acceptable range is +3.3 to +4.8 vdc. It is not expected that this voltage will exceed 5vdc.

::JP2 is an optional RS-232 output connection and can also be used to connect Ren-W to other serial devices. The output voltage is inverted and should be -5.0 to -5.5vdc, depending on the original input voltage.

:::::'''Caution: never place a shunt jumper across JP1 or JP2, or across either pin of JP3 to either pin of JP4.'''

::JP6 is used to bypass the 33ohm resistor R1 which helps moderate the RS-485 serial signal’s current. The combination of R1 and zener diode D1 form a voltage/current protection circuit that limits the serial voltage to a maximum of 3.3 volts before it enters the XBee module’s DIN port. However, not all RS-485 serial signals are of the same voltage and if your serial signal is less than +3.3 volts, you may find that the integrity of transmitted data may increase by placing a shunt jumper on JP6 to bypass resistor R1. If the serial signal is +3.8 vdc or greater, you should leave JP6 open. The XBee module includes a modicum of internal protection and in testing, we found that an XBee can accommodate +5vdc at the input DIN for a short period of time (a few seconds), after which the XBee may stop responding and appear to “lock up.” Temporarily removing power to the board usually resets the XBee so that it will function again.

== '''Other Voltage Test Points''' ==

::Almost in the exact center of the Ren-W board are three test points marked 5vdc, GND and 3vdc (actually 3.3v). While the actual voltages may vary slightly, the tested values should be very close to those figures. Our prototype measured 4.96v and 3.29v.

== '''Economy Ren-W Construction''' ==

::If you know exactly how many receive-only and/or transmit-only boards you need and want to save some cash, you can economize by not populating the board with parts that will not be used. For example, below are pictures of stripped-down yet fully functional transmit-only (left) and receive-only (right) boards. Note the parts that are missing on each board. These examples also show the standard XBee radio, not the Pro version, which cuts cost even more, although the standard XBee is quite limited in transmission range. (Price comparison: the Standard Xbee is $19, XBee Pro is $32, XBee Pro with SMA connector is $34.):

:::[[File:Ren-w_tx_only.JPG |350px]] [[File:Ren-w_rx_only.JPG |350px]]

::'''Bottom line:''' a fully-populated Ren-W board totals about $43.38 for parts with the XBee Pro radio. If you don't need the extra power of the Pro version and opt for the standard XBee, you could build a transmit-only or receive-only board for about $26. Home-etch the boards yourself and you could have a fully-functional two-station system for about $50, and using the XBee Pro version would cost only $26 more for the pair. So if you're on the fence about wireless, you can see that it doesn't have to cost an arm-and-a-leg.

== '''Mounting a Ren-W and SS24 Controller in a CG2000 Enclosure''' ==

:(click photos to enlarge)
:[[File:Ren-w_mount1.JPG |250px]] [[File:Ren-w_mount2.JPG |250px]] [[File:Ren-w_mount4.JPG |250px]]
Using side-entry RJ45s on the Ren-W and looping a cat5 cable from the Ren-W to the SS24, stress is minimized on all RJ45 connectors and the case can easily be fully opened. The Ren-W is mounted at the top of the case, to minimize magnetic interference from the SS24's transformer, and the SS24 is mounted diagonally in the CG2000 case to allow room for the antenna as well as a little additional distance from the triacs, another potential source of interference.

'''Additional Ren-W Links'''
*[[Renard Wireless Converter]]
*[[Ren-W BOM and Construction]]
*[[Ren-W Configuration Concepts]]
*[[Ren-W XBee Radio Configuration]]
*[[Ren-W Questions/Answers]]
*[[Ren-W Troubleshooting]]
*[[Ren-W Antenna Info]]
*[[Ren-W Controller Heater]]
*[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8102 Ren-W Topic on the DIYC Forums]

[[Category:Ren-W]]
[[Category:DIYC Index]]

Renard Data Cables

2011-10-29T03:51:23Z

Jrd:

'''The data cables shown on this page apply to the current Renard board designs at DIYC, except the [[Renard 16 Controller | Renard 16 (xmus)]] which has unique requirements. Some earlier designs/prototypes may have different cable requirements, when in doubt check the dedicated wiki page for that particular board.'''

==Data Cables==
===Directly to computer COMM port (DE9 to DE9 connection)===

[[image: wiki - Serial to Renard DE9 Connection.jpg | 600px ]]
Mainly for Renard 64XC and Renard SS boards
PC DE9 Pin 3 to Renard DE9 Pin 3
PC DE9 Pin 5 to Renard DE9 Pin 5

===Directly to computer COMM port (DE9 to RJ45 connection)===

[[image: wiki - Serial to Renard RJ45 Connection.jpg | 600px ]]
PC DE9 Pin 3 to RJ45-pin 4
PC DE9 Pin 5 to RJ45-pin 5 and pin 1 and/or pin 2

===Using a RS232->RS485 or USB->RS485 converter===

::Due to the many different types of RS232->RS485 and USB->RS485 converters available, the drawing only refers to the signals coming from the converter. Check the documentation for your converter to figure out how/where to hook up the correct wires.

[[image: wiki - RS485 to Renard Connection.jpg | 600px ]]
Converter signal RS485(-)/T-/D-/B/485- connects to RJ45-pin 4 (blue CAT5 wire)
Converter signal RS485(+)/T+/D+/A/485+ connects to RJ45-pin 5 (blue/white CAT5 wire)
Converter GND signal connects to RJ45-pins 1 & 2 (orange and orange/white CAT5 wires) 
An example is shown here with the [[media:Wiki - HXSP-2108F adapter.jpg |HXSP-2108F Adapter Hook-up ]]

===In a DMX environment===
[[image:wiki - DMX (XLR) to Renard Connection.jpg | 600px]] 

[[image:wiki - DMX (RJ-45) to Renard Connection.jpg | 600px]]

DMX using XLR Connectors
XLR connector pin 1 (GND) to RJ45-pin 1 and/or pin 2
XLR connector pin 2 (Data-) to RJ45-pin 4
XLR connector pin 3 (Data+) to RJ45-pin 5

DMX using RJ45 (CAT5) Connectors
RJ45 connector pin 1 (Data+) to RJ45-pin 5
RJ45 connector pin 2 (Data-) to RJ45-pin 4
RJ45 connector pins 7 & 8 (GND) to RJ45-pins 1 & 2

===Connecting multiple Renard boards===
[[image:Wiki - Renard to Renard Data Cable.jpg | 600px]] 

Generally only a regular straight-thru CAT5 cable is required to connect a Renard board to other Renard boards.
For the few exceptions (ie Ren24 V2.5), check the wiki page for those boards to see what their unique requirements are.

==Adapters/Converters==
<blockquote>'''Note to reader:''' The following adapters are examples of some of the common adapters that are available on eBay and other on-line sources. All of these adapters were tested during the writing of this wiki page. But since most of the sources for these adapters are in China, the quality of any given product may vary greatly. So while this batch of adapters worked there are no guarantees that future items from China will perform also, so please do not blame the author of this page if you happen to get an adapter that doesn't perform well.</blockquote>

===DE9 to RJ-45 Adapter ===
:This easy to use adapter is great for converting from the serial DE9 connector on most computers/adapters to a CAT5 RJ-45 connector. This allows you to use normal CAT5 cables to connect your computer to the controllers.

:Below is what appears to be the common color coding for the RJ-45 pin assignments. While all samples that were found during the writing of this article followed the same color coding, you should always double check any adapters that you might decide to use.

:::{|border="0" cellpadding="10" style="text-align: left;"
|-
|[[image:DE9 to RJ45 Adapter.JPG | 300px]]
| ''' RJ45     Wire Pin#      Color'''
   1        Blue
    2        Orange
    3        Black
    4        Red
    5        Green
    6        Yellow
    7        Brown
    8        White
|}

:'''Modification for using this adapter for RS-232'''
::*Remove the wires for unused pins (3-black, 6-yellow, 7-brown, 8-white). Cut the wires off as far down in the adapter as possible because you will need one of these wires later.
::*Cut the pins off of wires for pin 1-blue, 2-orange, 5-green.
::*Solder the above wires together, along with one of the wires cut off in the first step.
::*Use some heat shrink tubing to cover the soldered area.
::*Insert the pin on the wire connecting the soldered together wires into DE9 connector pin 5.
::*Insert the pin on the red wire (RJ45, pin 4) into DE9 connector pin 3.

:::[[image:RS232 modded DE9-R45 adapter.jpg | 300px]]

:'''Modification for using this adapter for common RS-485 adapters'''
::*Remove the wires for unused pins (3-black, 6-yellow, 7-brown, 8-white). Cut the wires off as far down in the adapter as possible because you will need one of these wires later.
::*Cut the pins off of wires for pin 1-blue, 2-orange.
::*Solder the above wires together, along with one of the wires cut off in the first step.
::*Use some heat shrink tubing to cover the soldered area.
::*Insert the pin on the wire connecting the soldered together wires into DE9 connector pin 5.
::*Insert the pin on the red wire (RJ45, pin 4) into DE9 connector pin 1.
::*Insert the pin on the green wire (RJ45, pin 5) into DE9 connector pin 2.

:::[[image:RS485 modded DE9-R45 adapter.JPG | 300px]]

===DE9 to RJ45 Adapter Cable via Cisco Console Cable (RS232)===
:Some people have bought a Cisco Console Cable like [http://www.amazon.com/Kingsmart-Cisco-Console-Cable-RJ45-to-DB9/dp/B000GL3MOY this one] thinking that it would work as a [[Renard_Data_Cables#Directly_to_computer_COMM_port_.28DE9_to_RJ45_connection.29|Typical Computer to Renard Connection]] unfortunately it will not natively but with this modification it will.
[[image:Cisco-2-Ren-Pinout.JPG]]
::*Cut the existing RJ-45 end off.
::*Install a new RJ-45 end with the wires in the following order:
::PC DE9 Pin 3(Green) to RJ45-pin 4
::PC DE9 pin 5(Yellow & Orange) to RJ45-pin 5 and pin 1

===USB to RS-232 Converters===
:'''TRENDnet Model: TU-S9'''
:::[[image:TRENDnet USB to RS232 Converter.JPG | 300px]]

:'''Unitek Model: Y-105'''
:::[[image:Unitek USB to RS232 Converter.JPG | 300px]]

:'''Vantek Model: CB-USB20SR'''
:::[[image:Vantec USB to RS232 Converter.JPG | 300px]]

:'''Generic model'''
:::[[image:USB to RS232 Converter.JPG | 300px]]

::*The output connector of each converter above is the same, so the converters are hooked-up in the same fashion.

::USB to RS-232 Converter attached to a DE9 to RJ-45 adapter
:::[[image:USB-RS232-RJ45.JPG| 300px |]]

::USB to RS-232 Converter attached to a RS-232 to RS-485 converter using the terminal board method.
:::[[image:USB to RS232 Converter with RS485.JPG | 300px]]

::USB to RS-232 Converter attached to a RS-232 to RS-485 converter a DE9 to RJ-45 adapter.
:::[[image:USB-RS232-RS485-RJ45.JPG | 300px]]

===USB to RS-485 Converters===
:'''Hexin Model: HXSP-2108F'''
:::[[image:HXSP-2108F USB to RS485 Converter.JPG | 300px]]

:'''Generic model'''
:::[[image:USB to RS485 Converter.JPG | 300px]]

::*The output connector of each converter above is the same, so the converters are hooked-up in the same fashion.

::USB to RS-485 Converter attached to a DE9 to RJ-45 adapter
:::[[image:HXSP-2108F USB to RS485 Converter to RJ45.JPG | 300px]]

::USB to RS-485 Converter using the terminal board method.
:::[[image:HXSP-2108F USB to RS485 Converter (wired).JPG | 300px]]

Adapter board signal T-/A connects to RJ45-pin 4 (blue CAT5 wire)
Adapter board signal T+/B connects to RJ45-pin 5 (blue/white CAT5 wire)
Adapter board GND signal connects to RJ45-pins 1 & 2 (orange and orange/white CAT5 wires)

===RS-232 to RS-485 Converters===
:'''Hexin Model: 485 (Style 1)'''
:::[[image:Hexin RS232 to RS485 converter.jpg | 300px]]

:::[[image:Hexin RS232 to RS485 (wired).JPG | 300px]]

Adapter board signal T/R- connects to RJ45-pin 4 (blue CAT5 wire)
Adapter board signal T/R+ connects to RJ45-pin 5 (blue/white CAT5 wire)
Adapter board GND signal connects to RJ45-pins 1 & 2 (orange and orange/white CAT5 wires)

:'''Hexin Model: 485 (Style 2)'''
:::[[image:Hexin RS232 to RS485 converter V2.jpg | 300px]]

:::[[image:Hexin RS232 to RS485 V2 (wired).JPG | 300px]]

Adapter board signal 485+ connects to RJ45-pin 5 (blue/white CAT5 wire)
Adapter board signal 485- connects to RJ45-pin 4 (blue CAT5 wire)
Adapter board GND signal connects to RJ45-pins 1 & 2 (orange and orange/white CAT5 wires)

:'''Sintech Model: 485C'''
:::[[image:Sintech RS232 to RS485 converter.JPG | 300px]]

:'''Sintech Model: STM485S'''
:::[[image:RS232 to RS485 converter V1.JPG | 300px]]

:::[[image:RS232 to RS485 converter (wired) V1.JPG | 300px]]
Adapter board signal D+/A connects to RJ45-pin 5 (blue/white CAT5 wire)
Adapter board signal D-/B connects to RJ45-pin 4 (blue CAT5 wire)
Adapter board GND signal connects to RJ45-pins 1 & 2 (orange and orange/white CAT5 wires)

::*All the above RS-232 to RS-485 adapters have the same pin configuration of the output connector, so they all can use the same modified DE9 to RJ-45 adapter.

:::[[image:RS232 to RS485 converter to RJ45.JPG | 300px]]

[[Category:General Info]]
[[Category:How To]]
[[Category:DIYC Controllers]]
[[Category:Beginners Info]]
[[Category:Renard]]
[[Category:Renard SS8]]
[[Category:Renard SS16]]
[[Category:Renard SS24]]
[[Category:Renard 24]]
[[Category:Renard 48LSD]]
[[Category:Renard 64XC]]
[[Category:Renard64]]
[[Category:Renard16 (xmus)]]
[[Category:Ren-C]]
[[Category:DIYC Index]]

File:Cisco-2-Ren-Pinout.JPG

2011-10-29T02:07:16Z

Jrd: uploaded a new version of "File:Cisco-2-Ren-Pinout.JPG": Oops, didn't upload the wrong version afterall.

http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?17575-Converting-Cisco-Console-Cables-for-Renard-Use.&p=179454

File:Cisco-2-Ren-Pinout.JPG

2011-10-29T02:03:27Z

Jrd: uploaded a new version of "File:Cisco-2-Ren-Pinout.JPG": Uploaded wrong file.

http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?17575-Converting-Cisco-Console-Cables-for-Renard-Use.&p=179454

File:Cisco-2-Ren-Pinout.JPG

2011-10-29T01:53:18Z

Jrd: uploaded a new version of "File:Cisco-2-Ren-Pinout.JPG": http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?17575-Converting-Cisco-Console-Cables-for-Renard-Use.&p=179568#post179568

http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?17575-Converting-Cisco-Console-Cables-for-Renard-Use.&p=179454

Renard Data Cables

2011-10-28T05:14:52Z

Jrd: http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?17575-Converting-Cisco-Console-Cables-for-Renard-Use.&p=179454

'''The data cables shown on this page apply to the current Renard board designs at DIYC, except the [[Renard 16 Controller | Renard 16 (xmus)]] which has unique requirements. Some earlier designs/prototypes may have different cable requirements, when in doubt check the dedicated wiki page for that particular board.'''

==Data Cables==
===Directly to computer COMM port (DE9 to DE9 connection)===

[[image: wiki - Serial to Renard DE9 Connection.jpg | 600px ]]
Mainly for Renard 64XC and Renard SS boards
PC DE9 Pin 3 to Renard DE9 Pin 3
PC DE9 Pin 5 to Renard DE9 Pin 5

===Directly to computer COMM port (DE9 to RJ45 connection)===

[[image: wiki - Serial to Renard RJ45 Connection.jpg | 600px ]]
PC DE9 Pin 3 to RJ45-pin 4
PC DE9 Pin 5 to RJ45-pin 5 and pin 1 and/or pin 2

===Directly to computer COMM port via Cisco Console Cable (DE9 to RJ45 connection)===
[[image:Cisco-2-Ren-Pinout.JPG]]
Step 1. Cut the existing RJ-45 end off.
Step 2. Install a new RJ-45 end with the cables in the following order:
PC DE9 Pin 3(Green) to RJ45-pin 4
PC DE9 pin 5(Yellow & Orange) to RJ45-pin 5 and pin 1

===Using a RS232->RS485 or USB->RS485 converter===

::Due to the many different types of RS232->RS485 and USB->RS485 converters available, the drawing only refers to the signals coming from the converter. Check the documentation for your converter to figure out how/where to hook up the correct wires.

[[image: wiki - RS485 to Renard Connection.jpg | 600px ]]
Converter signal RS485(-)/T-/D-/B/485- connects to RJ45-pin 4 (blue CAT5 wire)
Converter signal RS485(+)/T+/D+/A/485+ connects to RJ45-pin 5 (blue/white CAT5 wire)
Converter GND signal connects to RJ45-pins 1 & 2 (orange and orange/white CAT5 wires) 
An example is shown here with the [[media:Wiki - HXSP-2108F adapter.jpg |HXSP-2108F Adapter Hook-up ]]

===In a DMX environment===
[[image:wiki - DMX (XLR) to Renard Connection.jpg | 600px]] 

[[image:wiki - DMX (RJ-45) to Renard Connection.jpg | 600px]]

DMX using XLR Connectors
XLR connector pin 1 (GND) to RJ45-pin 1 and/or pin 2
XLR connector pin 2 (Data-) to RJ45-pin 4
XLR connector pin 3 (Data+) to RJ45-pin 5

DMX using RJ45 (CAT5) Connectors
RJ45 connector pin 1 (Data+) to RJ45-pin 5
RJ45 connector pin 2 (Data-) to RJ45-pin 4
RJ45 connector pins 7 & 8 (GND) to RJ45-pins 1 & 2

===Connecting multiple Renard boards===
[[image:Wiki - Renard to Renard Data Cable.jpg | 600px]] 

Generally only a regular straight-thru CAT5 cable is required to connect a Renard board to other Renard boards.
For the few exceptions (ie Ren24 V2.5), check the wiki page for those boards to see what their unique requirements are.

==Adapters/Converters==
<blockquote>'''Note to reader:''' The following adapters are examples of some of the common adapters that are available on eBay and other on-line sources. All of these adapters were tested during the writing of this wiki page. But since most of the sources for these adapters are in China, the quality of any given product may vary greatly. So while this batch of adapters worked there are no guarantees that future items from China will perform also, so please do not blame the author of this page if you happen to get an adapter that doesn't perform well.</blockquote>

===DE9 to RJ-45 Adapter ===
:This easy to use adapter is great for converting from the serial DE9 connector on most computers/adapters to a CAT5 RJ-45 connector. This allows you to use normal CAT5 cables to connect your computer to the controllers.

:Below is what appears to be the common color coding for the RJ-45 pin assignments. While all samples that were found during the writing of this article followed the same color coding, you should always double check any adapters that you might decide to use.

:::{|border="0" cellpadding="10" style="text-align: left;"
|-
|[[image:DE9 to RJ45 Adapter.JPG | 300px]]
| ''' RJ45     Wire Pin#      Color'''
   1        Blue
    2        Orange
    3        Black
    4        Red
    5        Green
    6        Yellow
    7        Brown
    8        White
|}

:'''Modification for using this adapter for RS-232'''
::*Remove the wires for unused pins (3-black, 6-yellow, 7-brown, 8-white). Cut the wires off as far down in the adapter as possible because you will need one of these wires later.
::*Cut the pins off of wires for pin 1-blue, 2-orange, 5-green.
::*Solder the above wires together, along with one of the wires cut off in the first step.
::*Use some heat shrink tubing to cover the soldered area.
::*Insert the pin on the wire connecting the soldered together wires into DE9 connector pin 5.
::*Insert the pin on the red wire (RJ45, pin 4) into DE9 connector pin 3.

:::[[image:RS232 modded DE9-R45 adapter.jpg | 300px]]

:'''Modification for using this adapter for common RS-485 adapters'''
::*Remove the wires for unused pins (3-black, 6-yellow, 7-brown, 8-white). Cut the wires off as far down in the adapter as possible because you will need one of these wires later.
::*Cut the pins off of wires for pin 1-blue, 2-orange.
::*Solder the above wires together, along with one of the wires cut off in the first step.
::*Use some heat shrink tubing to cover the soldered area.
::*Insert the pin on the wire connecting the soldered together wires into DE9 connector pin 5.
::*Insert the pin on the red wire (RJ45, pin 4) into DE9 connector pin 1.
::*Insert the pin on the green wire (RJ45, pin 5) into DE9 connector pin 2.

:::[[image:RS485 modded DE9-R45 adapter.JPG | 300px]]

===USB to RS-232 Converters===
:'''TRENDnet Model: TU-S9'''
:::[[image:TRENDnet USB to RS232 Converter.JPG | 300px]]

:'''Unitek Model: Y-105'''
:::[[image:Unitek USB to RS232 Converter.JPG | 300px]]

:'''Vantek Model: CB-USB20SR'''
:::[[image:Vantec USB to RS232 Converter.JPG | 300px]]

:'''Generic model'''
:::[[image:USB to RS232 Converter.JPG | 300px]]

::*The output connector of each converter above is the same, so the converters are hooked-up in the same fashion.

::USB to RS-232 Converter attached to a DE9 to RJ-45 adapter
:::[[image:USB-RS232-RJ45.JPG| 300px |]]

::USB to RS-232 Converter attached to a RS-232 to RS-485 converter using the terminal board method.
:::[[image:USB to RS232 Converter with RS485.JPG | 300px]]

::USB to RS-232 Converter attached to a RS-232 to RS-485 converter a DE9 to RJ-45 adapter.
:::[[image:USB-RS232-RS485-RJ45.JPG | 300px]]

===USB to RS-485 Converters===
:'''Hexin Model: HXSP-2108F'''
:::[[image:HXSP-2108F USB to RS485 Converter.JPG | 300px]]

:'''Generic model'''
:::[[image:USB to RS485 Converter.JPG | 300px]]

::*The output connector of each converter above is the same, so the converters are hooked-up in the same fashion.

::USB to RS-485 Converter attached to a DE9 to RJ-45 adapter
:::[[image:HXSP-2108F USB to RS485 Converter to RJ45.JPG | 300px]]

::USB to RS-485 Converter using the terminal board method.
:::[[image:HXSP-2108F USB to RS485 Converter (wired).JPG | 300px]]

Adapter board signal T-/A connects to RJ45-pin 4 (blue CAT5 wire)
Adapter board signal T+/B connects to RJ45-pin 5 (blue/white CAT5 wire)
Adapter board GND signal connects to RJ45-pins 1 & 2 (orange and orange/white CAT5 wires)

===RS-232 to RS-485 Converters===
:'''Hexin Model: 485 (Style 1)'''
:::[[image:Hexin RS232 to RS485 converter.jpg | 300px]]

:::[[image:Hexin RS232 to RS485 (wired).JPG | 300px]]

Adapter board signal T/R- connects to RJ45-pin 4 (blue CAT5 wire)
Adapter board signal T/R+ connects to RJ45-pin 5 (blue/white CAT5 wire)
Adapter board GND signal connects to RJ45-pins 1 & 2 (orange and orange/white CAT5 wires)

:'''Hexin Model: 485 (Style 2)'''
:::[[image:Hexin RS232 to RS485 converter V2.jpg | 300px]]

:::[[image:Hexin RS232 to RS485 V2 (wired).JPG | 300px]]

Adapter board signal 485+ connects to RJ45-pin 5 (blue/white CAT5 wire)
Adapter board signal 485- connects to RJ45-pin 4 (blue CAT5 wire)
Adapter board GND signal connects to RJ45-pins 1 & 2 (orange and orange/white CAT5 wires)

:'''Sintech Model: 485C'''
:::[[image:Sintech RS232 to RS485 converter.JPG | 300px]]

:'''Sintech Model: STM485S'''
:::[[image:RS232 to RS485 converter V1.JPG | 300px]]

:::[[image:RS232 to RS485 converter (wired) V1.JPG | 300px]]
Adapter board signal D+/A connects to RJ45-pin 5 (blue/white CAT5 wire)
Adapter board signal D-/B connects to RJ45-pin 4 (blue CAT5 wire)
Adapter board GND signal connects to RJ45-pins 1 & 2 (orange and orange/white CAT5 wires)

::*All the above RS-232 to RS-485 adapters have the same pin configuration of the output connector, so they all can use the same modified DE9 to RJ-45 adapter.

:::[[image:RS232 to RS485 converter to RJ45.JPG | 300px]]

[[Category:General Info]]
[[Category:How To]]
[[Category:DIYC Controllers]]
[[Category:Beginners Info]]
[[Category:Renard]]
[[Category:Renard SS8]]
[[Category:Renard SS16]]
[[Category:Renard SS24]]
[[Category:Renard 24]]
[[Category:Renard 48LSD]]
[[Category:Renard 64XC]]
[[Category:Renard64]]
[[Category:Renard16 (xmus)]]
[[Category:Ren-C]]
[[Category:DIYC Index]]

File:Cisco-2-Ren-Pinout.JPG

2011-10-28T04:57:57Z

Jrd: http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?17575-Converting-Cisco-Console-Cables-for-Renard-Use.&p=179454

http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?17575-Converting-Cisco-Console-Cables-for-Renard-Use.&p=179454

Talk:Vastelec FM02

2011-09-30T03:30:15Z

Jrd:

Added some links, moved the first picture up, made the second picture a thumbnail. You can of course change it back if you feel my changes were not good. --[[User:Jrd|Jrd]] 21:02, 29 September 2011 (UTC)

Added a clear under the main image so "The" would be with the rest of the text. Did you know you can preview your changes so you don't have so many revisions? --[[User:Jrd|Jrd]] 03:30, 30 September 2011 (UTC)

Vastelec FM02

2011-09-30T03:29:24Z

Jrd: Added a clear under the main image so "The" would be with the rest of the text. Did you know you can preview your changes so you don't have so many revisions?

==The FM Transmitter with DIY possibilities ==

[[Image:FM02_beauty_shot.jpg|FM-02]]
 
[[Image:Fm02_beauty_shot_2.jpg|thumb|right|FM-02b]]
[[Image:Fm02_beauty_shot_3.jpg|thumb|right|FM-02b]]

The FM02 is a two board FM transmitter. It accepts a stereo audio source and outputs a stereo FM broadcast signal on the frequency shown on the LED display. It comes just as shown in the picture above.

It is rated at 30mw (that's milli-watts) of transmission power. For most Christmas DIYers this is a nearly perfect amount of power. It will transmit a clear signal for about 2 blocks or 1/4 mile. Why is this good? Because it is illegal in the USA to transmit other then very low amounts of FM radiation without an FCC license.
The FM02 is not a complete unit ready for use.
Instead, it bridges the gap between an out-of-the-box solution, and a build-your-own unit that starts with a bare PCB and a bag of parts.

The FM02 is very small, but packs in a nice set of features. 
Key to these is the use of PLL (Phase Locked Loop) technology. PLL keeps the transmitter locked into the designated transmitting frequency without it drifting up or down. This frequency drift WILL occur on other FM transmitters without PLL as the temperature around the unit goes up or down.

The second key feature is the fact that the transmitting frequency is maintained even after power is turned off and back on.


The FM02 is a very sophisticated assembly. Building a unit of this capability and size would be nearly impossible for most DIY'ers.

So, to create a usable FM transmitter, the FM02 needs some help. The builder of the transmitter will take the FM02 and use it as the corner stone of a complete transmitter.

You will need the following items added to your FM02:
- Power. A regulated 12v DC power supply is needed. 50ma is enough current.
- An Antenna. Never power your unit without an antenna.
- A mounting enclosure. You will need to mount the FM02 boards somewhere safe and dry.

== About VAST Electronics==
[http://www.vastelec.com/Low_Power_FM_Transmitter_V-FM02.htm Vendor's Website]

[http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/images/f/f7/FM-Transmitter.pdf Data Sheet]

http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?12895-FM02-Transmitter-Setup

== Power Requirements ==

''Do NOT power it up without an antenna.'' You don't need to have your 'real' antenna ready for this. You can put the adapter on and then stick a 12" piece of wire into the center of the BNC connector. This will dissipate the RF energy just fine. Just be sure you don't enlarge the hole inside the BNC.

''DO NOT apply anything GREATER then REGULATED 12V DC to your unit.'' If you aren't sure, then ask for help in the forums. Use a meter to check the voltage first. If all you have is a wall-wart that is labeled 12V, then that is most likely NOT regulated. A simple test of the output voltage with a meter will tell the tale.
I use one of the voltage regulators from Sure Electronics with my unit. These are about $5 online.

Many folks will experience some ''HUM'' when using a wall wart for power that is then regulated via voltage regulator. This is normal. The good news is that you should be able to eliminate this hum with the use of a ''Ferrite Bead.'' (more to come)

== Detailed Board Dimensions ==

'''Outline of the 'display' board.'''

[[Image:VAST_FM-02_Display_Board_Dimensions.jpg |right|board dims]]



'''The second board has the same physical outline dimensions. It also lines up with the 4 corner mounting holes.'''



[[Image:Vast_transmitter_layout_component_board.jpg‎ |right|board dims 2]]






== Antenna ==

The FM02 has an antenna connection that will look a bit unusual to most folks.
It is known as an '''''SMA''''' type of connector.

Most DIY'ers will want to convert this to the '''''BNC''''' type of connector because BNC components are easier to find.
The converter shown below will correctly hook to the FM02. SMA is the smaller gold connector.

[[Image:FM02_sma_to_BNC_converter.jpg |center|smatobnc]]


[http://www.christmasinshirley.com/wiki/index.php?title=File:How_to_make_a_dipole_antenna.pdf How to Make a Dipole Antenna]

== What Frequency to Use ==

This is real simple, go to this website and find a frequency that is unused.
If there are no unused frequency's, then pick one that is not very powerful and
get your radio out and check it out. If you can't pick it up at your house, odds
are no one will complain when you start broadcasting on that frequency.

'''
http://www.radio-locator.com/ '''

== Where can I get one of these wonderful devices ? ==

These come up as group buys on the [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?18-Group-Buys DIYC forum] from time to time.

They may also be available at [http://wlcventures.com/zencart/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=4&products_id=19&zenid=lhabueje8vmh5n92eb5c4m9t86 WLC Ventures].

They have also been seen for sale on eBay.

Talk:Vastelec FM02

2011-09-29T21:02:13Z

Jrd: Created page with 'Added some links, moved the first picture up, made the second picture a thumbnail. You can of course change it back if you feel my changes were not good. --~~~~'

Vastelec FM02

2011-09-29T20:59:31Z

Jrd: Added some links, moved the first picture up, made the second pic a thumbnail.

[[Image:FM02_beauty_shot.jpg|right|FM-02]]
==The FM Transmitter with DIY possibilities ==


[[Image:Fm02_beauty_shot_2.jpg|thumb|right|FM-02b]]

The FM02 is a two board FM transmitter. It accepts a stereo audio source and outputs a stereo FM broadcast signal on the frequency shown on the LED display. It comes just as shown in the picture above.

It is rated at 30mw (that's milli-watts) of transmission power. For most Christmas DIYers this is a nearly perfect amount of power. It will transmit a clear signal for about 2 blocks or 1/4 mile. Why is this good? Because it is illegal in the USA to transmit other then very low amounts of FM radiation without an FCC license.
The FM02 is not a complete unit ready for use.
Instead, it bridges the gap between an out-of-the-box solution, and a build-your-own unit that starts with a bare PCB and a bag of parts.


The FM02 is very small, but packs in a nice set of features. 
Key to these is the use of PLL (Phase Locked Loop) technology. PLL keeps the transmitter locked into the designated transmitting frequency without it drifting up or down. This frequency drift WILL occur on other FM transmitters without PLL as the temperature around the unit goes up or down.

The second key feature is the fact that the transmitting frequency is maintained even after power is turned off and back on.


The FM02 is a very sophisticated assembly. Building a unit of this capability and size would be nearly impossible for most DIY'ers.

So, to create a usable FM transmitter, the FM02 needs some help. The builder of the transmitter will take the FM02 and use it as the corner stone of a complete transmitter.

You will need the following items added to your FM02:
- Power. A regulated 12v DC power supply is needed. 50ma is enough current.
- An Antenna. Never power your unit without an antenna.
- A mounting enclosure. You will need to mount the FM02 boards somewhere safe and dry.

== About VAST Electronics==
[http://www.vastelec.com/Low_Power_FM_Transmitter_V-FM02.htm Vendor's Website]

[http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/images/f/f7/FM-Transmitter.pdf Data Sheet]

http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?12895-FM02-Transmitter-Setup

== Power Requirements ==

''Do NOT power it up without an antenna.'' You don't need to have your 'real' antenna ready for this. You can put the adapter on and then stick a 12" piece of wire into the center of the BNC connector. This will dissipate the RF energy just fine. Just be sure you don't enlarge the hole inside the BNC.

''DO NOT apply anything GREATER then REGULATED 12V DC to your unit.'' If you aren't sure, then ask for help in the forums. Use a meter to check the voltage first. If all you have is a wall-wart that is labeled 12V, then that is most likely NOT regulated. A simple test of the output voltage with a meter will tell the tale.
I use one of the voltage regulators from Sure Electronics with my unit. These are about $5 online.

Many folks will experience some ''HUM'' when using a wall wart for power that is then regulated via voltage regulator. This is normal. The good news is that you should be able to eliminate this hum with the use of a ''Ferrite Bead.'' (more to come)

== Detailed Board Dimensions ==

'''Outline of the 'display' board.'''

[[Image:VAST_FM-02_Display_Board_Dimensions.jpg |right|board dims]]



'''The second board has the same physical outline dimensions. It also lines up with the 4 corner mounting holes.'''



[[Image:Vast_transmitter_layout_component_board.jpg‎ |right|board dims 2]]






== Antenna ==

The FM02 has an antenna connection that will look a bit unusual to most folks.
It is known as an '''''SMA''''' type of connector.

Most DIY'ers will want to convert this to the '''''BNC''''' type of connector because BNC components are easier to find.
The converter shown below will correctly hook to the FM02. SMA is the smaller gold connector.

[[Image:FM02_sma_to_BNC_converter.jpg |center|smatobnc]]


[http://www.christmasinshirley.com/wiki/index.php?title=File:How_to_make_a_dipole_antenna.pdf How to Make a Dipole Antenna]

== Setup ==
http://www.radio-locator.com/

== Where can I get one of these wonderful devices ? ==

These come up as group buys on the [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?18-Group-Buys DIYC forum] from time to time.

They may also be available at [http://wlcventures.com/zencart/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=4&products_id=19&zenid=lhabueje8vmh5n92eb5c4m9t86 WLC Ventures].

They have also been seen for sale on eBay.

FM Transmitters

2011-09-29T20:39:45Z

Jrd:

This page contains information about the popular FM transmitters that are used at DIYC.

==General Information==
===What is an FM Transmitter?===
An FM transmitter is generally a portable device that plugs into the headphone jack or proprietary output port of a portable audio or video device, such as a portable media player, CD player, or satellite radio system but can also be a stationary device that plugs into the headphone or line out jack of a computer. The sound is then broadcast through the transmitter, and plays through an FM broadcast band frequency. Purposes for an FM transmitter include playing music from a device through a car stereo, or any radio.

===Why would I want an FM Transmitter?===
Many DIYC'ers sequence their shows to music. This allows people who stop and watch the blinky/flashy to enjoy the music as well. [[Vixen]] supports sequencing to music.

===How do I choose a frequency?===
Visit this website:

http://www.radio-locator.com/cgi-bin/vacant

Enter your zip code and click go. The page will return a list of vacant channels. Choose one, and tune to it to make sure it is vacant!
Now you have your frequency to build your [[#Antenna Designs|antenna]].

==FM Transmitters,Specific Model information==
[[Vastelec FM02]]

==Antenna Designs==
A great companion to a low-power FM transmitter is an efficient antenna. Many DIY'ers have built dipole antennas because they're inexpensive and very efficient. For information on how to build one, click here: [[Media:How to make a dipole antenna.pdf |How to make a dipole antenna‎]].

[[Category:General Info]][[Category:Other Hardware]]

Renard

2011-09-28T20:37:45Z

Jrd: /* Number of Circuits (Channels) */

== Overview ==

Renard is the name of a computer-controlled, PIC-based dimmer scheme, and also refers to dimming controllers that people have built based on this scheme. The designs all use mid-range PIC micro-controllers, are generally modular in units of eight channels (dimmable circuits), and use medium-speed, daisy-chainable, one-direction serial communications for input. Renard controllers do not have stand-alone show sequencing capabilities, and rely on a separate computer (usually a PC) to send it real-time sequences of dimmer commands.

This design was originally described in the [http://computerchristmas.com/?link=how_to&HowToId=71 Simple PIC-Based 8-Port Dimmer] 'How-To' on the http://computerchristmas.com website in a generic form. Since then various people have designed and built controllers based on this hardware, and there are likely to be coop buys of one or more of these designs. Renard is strictly a DIY, hobbyist effort at this time, with no commercial products available (either software or hardware).

Here is a picture of an assembled Renard8 pcb (an 8-channel board with an RS485 interface). The two connectors in the lower left are for cables that go to remotely located 4-channel SSR boards, and the two on the upper right are for serial (RS485) input and output.

[[Image:web_100_8269.JPG|right|thumb|160px|[[16_Channel_Renard_with_SSRs | Renard16]] ]]
[[Image:IMG_3021.JPG|right|thumb|160px|[[24_Channel_Renard_with_SSR_Assembly_Instructions | Renard24]] ]]
[[Image:Ren_64.jpg|right|thumb|160px|[[Renard64 | Renard64]] ]]

[[Image:Renard8_img_001.jpg]]

In addition to the Renard8 pictured above, there are several other Renard boards available. These include 16 and 24 channel versions with onboard SSRs, and a 64 channel version without SSRs. In addition, a transformer board exists for providing power and zero-crossing to a Renard, as well as a board to convert an Olsen 595 board to a Renard board. More information can be found on these controllers' respective pages, accessible from the [[Renard Main Page]].
== The Pieces and How They Connect Together ==

Create some drawings.

=== Distance ===

The maximum distance between controllers (or between the PC and the first controller) depends on whether RS232 or RS485 is used as the physical communications method. For RS232 the standards only specify short distances (less than 15 m), but past experiences in other situations suggests that it should work up to several times that distance, especially if low capacitance cable is used. For RS485 it should work out to a distance of more than 300m.

=== Number of Circuits (Channels) ===

The number of Renard channels that can be supported on a serial port depends on both the baud rate and on the frequency of updates that has been programmed into the Vixen sequence. The most common PC control software is Vixen, which easily supports multiple serial ports (including USB-RS232 and USB-485 converters).

{| border="1"; cellpadding="10" style="text-align: center; background:black; color:white"
|+ Number of Channels (*)
|colspan="4" align="center" style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| '''Total Renard Channels Capable for a given Baud Rate/Refresh Interval*'''
|-
|rowspan="2" style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''Baud Rate'''
|colspan="3" align="center" style="background:#D3D3D3; color:black"| '''Refresh Interval'''
|-
!width="60" style="background:#D3D3D3; color:black"| 100 ms
!width="60" style="background:#D3D3D3; color:black"| 50 ms
!width="60" style="background:#D3D3D3; color:black"| 25 ms
|-
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''115200'''
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| 1150
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| 574
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| 286
|-
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''57600'''
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| 574
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| 286
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| 142
|-
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''38400'''
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| 382
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| 190
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| 94
|-
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''19200'''
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| 190
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| 94
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| 46
|}
([http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/images/7/72/Renard_channel_limit.png Image for use on the forum])

'''Note*''' - these numbers are based on using the Modified Renard Plugin included in Vixen 2.X as the dimmer codes that require two-byte encoding are avoided.

=== Firmware Versions ===

There are several different versions of the Renard Firmware available.

The first ('regular') version sends out a 30 uS low-going pulse (about 36 uS in areas with 50 Hz AC power), which is intended just to turn on the SSR at the right point in the AC cycle. This pulse is only long enough to activate the SSR, which then stays on by itself until the end of the AC cycle. The advantage of this version is that it draws the least amount of power from the +5V supply. The disadvantage of this version is that the current draw of AC-powered LED lights may be too low during certain parts of the AC power cycle to allow the opto/triac to stay on by itself. The current draw of each SSR output is about 6 mA, or 48 mA for 8 channels. However, the duty cycle of each SSR input is about 1:256, so the average current draw is about .18 mA (much less than the PIC itself).

The next (PWM) version of the firmware sends out a variable width low-going pulse synchronized to the AC power cycle. The pulse starts at the same time as it would in the 'regular' version of the firmware, but lasts until the end of the AC cycle instead of turning off right away. The advantage of this version is that it can be used for dimming direct-drive LEDs (those without any SSRs involved), and will be better at dimming low-current lights with SSRs (including LED lights intended for AC operation). The disadvantage of this version is that it draws a lot more current from the +5V supply in the worst case. The current draw of each SSR output is still 6 mA (or 12 mA if there are status LEDs in parallel with the SSR), for a total of 48 mA (96 mA). The worst case duty cycle is now 100%, so the full 48 mA (or 96 mA) has to be accounted for.

The last (DC) version of the firmware is very similar to the PWM firmware, also sending out a variable-width pulse. However, this pulse is not synchronized to the AC power line, so there is no need to connect a zero-crossing signal to the controller.

=== SSR Selection ===

The Renard Dimmer is designed to turn the SSRs on at different points of each AC powerline cycle (at the beginning for high-brightness, in the middle for medium brightness, and at the end for very low brightness). As a result, the SSRs must be selected for random-phase turn-on. The Renard controllers will not work properly with SSRs designed for zero-crossing turn-on.

=== Driving LED Light Strings ===

Controlling LED light strings requires the use of the special version of the firmware designed for PWM operation (as opposed to the standard version of the firmware, which controls the light intensity by pulse positioning). The reason for this is that LED current at certain voltage (brightness) levels may be too low to latch the optos/triacs in the SSRs. The PWM firmware eliminates this problem by driving the SSRs for the entire 'ON' portion of each AC power line cycle, rather than providing just a narrow pulse at the start of the 'ON' period.

=== Power Requirements ===

The power requirement for the controller varies with the exact application. The PIC itself usually draws around 5mA. Additional current is required for the oscillator (if present), the serial line interface chips, the SSRs and the voltage regulator (if any). It is hard to give guidelines for these parts, because there are many possible choices for all of these parts. It is best to consult the datasheets for the parts that are actually installed.

==== Observed Current Draw ====

The current consumption numbers were obtained by placing a 1 Ω resistor (+/- 5%) in series with the power input pin(s) to the controller, and measuring the voltage across the resistor. The columns with the label 'term' were measurements taken with a 120 Ω termination resistor connected across the RS485 output signals, while 'no term' measurements were taken with the RS485 output connector left open. These numbers should be viewed as representative, not exact. The actual numbers will vary from chip to chip, with temperature, the regulator output voltage, tolerance of the RS485 terminating resistor, and so forth.

{| class="wikitable" border="1"
|-
! PCB
! Non-PWM Current (no term)
! Non-PWM Current (term)
! PWM Current (no term)
! PWM Current (term)
|-
!Renard8
|align="right" |20 mA
|align="right" |39 mA
|align="right" |60 mA
|align="right" |80 mA
|-
!XMUS 16-Channel
|align="right" |45 mA
|align="right" |71 mA
|align="right" |122 mA
|align="right" |149 mA
|-
|}

Note: All measurements taken with the PIC configured to use an external 18.432 MHz oscillator, and with all output channels connected to SSRs (no on/off LED installed on the SSR, however). The outputs of the PIC were configured for maximum dimmer brightness (i.e. worst case situation). The measurements were taken with a DC supply connected to the pins 7,8 on the RJ45 connector, with the zero-crossing signal supplied by other means. In addition, one of the output pins was observed with an oscilloscope to verify correct operation.

== Comparison with Other Schemes ==

LOR
AL
D-LIGHT
DMX-512

== Future Directions ==

== Protocol ==

===Version 1===

==== Character Format ====

Baud Rate can vary, current firmware is programmed for 57600.

1 Start Bit, 8 Data Bits, No Parity bit, 1 Stop bit (8N1)

==== Special Characters ====
<tt>
0x7D - Pad byte, silently discarded by controller firmware, inserted by host PC to prevent Tx overrun
0x7E - Sync byte, start of packet marker.
0x7F - Escape byte, used as prefix for encoding dimmer levels that correspond to the special characters.
</tt>

To send the value 0x7D as data (rather than as a special character), send the two-character sequence '0x7F-0x2F' in its place.

To send the value 0x7E as data (rather than as a special character), send the two-character sequence '0x7F-0x30' in its place.

To send value 0x7F as data, send the two-character sequence '0x7F-0x31' in its place.

The PICs have a rather large internal clock frequency tolerance, which could cause a transmitter overrun in a PIC which has a slow clock. This could happen under the following circumstances:

1) The host PC is transmitting characters with one stop bit, and

2) One (or more) of the PICs is using its internal oscillator (instead of an external crystal) and

3) That oscillator is running at the low end of it's tolerance (1% slow),

The Renard firmware doesn't have any separate provision for transmit buffer other than the internal PIC transmit buffers. If data is arriving at the PIC faster than it can clear the UART transmitter, some data in the PIC transmitter would be over-written, causing data to be lost. The PAD byte is intended to give the transmitter in a slow PIC time to catch up.

==== Packet Format ====
<tt>
Byte 0 - 0x7E (sync byte)
Byte 1 - Command/address byte (usually 0x80, see below)
Byte 2-n - Dimmer values (0-0xFF, values 0x7D, 0x7E and 0x7F have special encoding, all others are sent raw)
</tt>

==== Firmware Operations ====

When the controller receives a character, it first checks to see if it is the sync character (0x7E). If so, this is the start of a packet, and the controller resets its packet receiving state machine. The controller re-transmits the sync byte, so that down-stream controllers can also reset their packet receiving state machines.

The next character is the command/address byte. There are three possible cases for this byte:

1) If this byte is less than 128 (0x80), it is for some protocol that this firmware cannot handle (reserved for future use). The command/address byte is retransmitted, as are all the remaining bytes in the packet.

2) If the byte is exactly 0x80, the next eight bytes (after decoding) are intended for this controller. The command/address byte is retransmitted. The next eight bytes are decoded and used internally without retransmitting. The remaining bytes in the packet are retransmitted for use by the downstream controllers.

3) If the byte is greater than 0x80, the packet is intended for some downstream controller. The command/address byte is decremented and transmitted, and the remaining bytes in the packet are retransmitted.

== Schematic ==
[[Image:Renard_generic_sch.gif]]

This is a generic Renard schematic, not specific to any particular board. It is intended as the starting point for creating a custom design, and many of the elements of this schematic can be modified for individual circumstances.

=== AC Input (J2) ===

This connector is used to bring 110VAC into the board for sensing the AC zero-crossing. The resistors R1 and R2 will need to be changed for operation at other voltages.

High voltage is present on this connector, and great care should taken with this connector and the related components to prevent damage or injury. Do not build this circuit if you are not knowledgeable about working with power-line voltages.

=== Power Connector (J5) ===

This is used to provide power (+5V) to the Renard controller.

=== Serial (RS232) Connectors (J3 and J4) ===

These connectors are used for input data (J3, from either the PC or an upstream Renard controller) and transmitting data to downstream controllers (J4).

=== SSR Connector (J1) ===

This connector is designed to interface with the Simpleio TRIAC8 board. The current firmware versions assume that the SSRs are configured in a current-sink mode. The outputs of the PIC are active low. In the inactive state the outputs are high, and are driven low to activate the SSR. The normal firmware will cause the outputs to driven low for about 30 μS (for 60 Hz operation, slightly longer for 50 Hz operation). This fairly narrow pulse will be latched in both the opto-coupler and the triac in the SSR, extending the cycle until the AC voltage drops back to 0.

In many cases it may be desireable to replace J1 with connectors that are better suited to the particular application.

=== RS232 Voltage Converter (U10, C8 and C9) ===

This is the classic MAX232 circuit used for converting between RS232 voltage levels (+/- 15V) and TTL logic levels (0 to 5V). This circuit may be replaced with RS485 interface chips (such as the SN75176 or SN75179) if operation with RS485 is desired.

== Firmware ==

See the [[Renard Firmware]] page.

[[Category:DIYC Hardware]]
[[Category:Renard]]
[[Category:DIYC Index]]

Renard

2011-09-28T20:37:16Z

Jrd: /* Number of Circuits (Channels) */

== Overview ==

Renard is the name of a computer-controlled, PIC-based dimmer scheme, and also refers to dimming controllers that people have built based on this scheme. The designs all use mid-range PIC micro-controllers, are generally modular in units of eight channels (dimmable circuits), and use medium-speed, daisy-chainable, one-direction serial communications for input. Renard controllers do not have stand-alone show sequencing capabilities, and rely on a separate computer (usually a PC) to send it real-time sequences of dimmer commands.

This design was originally described in the [http://computerchristmas.com/?link=how_to&HowToId=71 Simple PIC-Based 8-Port Dimmer] 'How-To' on the http://computerchristmas.com website in a generic form. Since then various people have designed and built controllers based on this hardware, and there are likely to be coop buys of one or more of these designs. Renard is strictly a DIY, hobbyist effort at this time, with no commercial products available (either software or hardware).

Here is a picture of an assembled Renard8 pcb (an 8-channel board with an RS485 interface). The two connectors in the lower left are for cables that go to remotely located 4-channel SSR boards, and the two on the upper right are for serial (RS485) input and output.

[[Image:web_100_8269.JPG|right|thumb|160px|[[16_Channel_Renard_with_SSRs | Renard16]] ]]
[[Image:IMG_3021.JPG|right|thumb|160px|[[24_Channel_Renard_with_SSR_Assembly_Instructions | Renard24]] ]]
[[Image:Ren_64.jpg|right|thumb|160px|[[Renard64 | Renard64]] ]]

[[Image:Renard8_img_001.jpg]]

In addition to the Renard8 pictured above, there are several other Renard boards available. These include 16 and 24 channel versions with onboard SSRs, and a 64 channel version without SSRs. In addition, a transformer board exists for providing power and zero-crossing to a Renard, as well as a board to convert an Olsen 595 board to a Renard board. More information can be found on these controllers' respective pages, accessible from the [[Renard Main Page]].
== The Pieces and How They Connect Together ==

Create some drawings.

=== Distance ===

The maximum distance between controllers (or between the PC and the first controller) depends on whether RS232 or RS485 is used as the physical communications method. For RS232 the standards only specify short distances (less than 15 m), but past experiences in other situations suggests that it should work up to several times that distance, especially if low capacitance cable is used. For RS485 it should work out to a distance of more than 300m.

=== Number of Circuits (Channels) ===

The number of Renard channels that can be supported on a serial port depends on both the baud rate and on the frequency of updates that has been programmed into the Vixen sequence. The most common PC control software is Vixen, which easily supports multiple serial ports (including USB-RS232 and USB-485 converters).

{| border="1"; cellpadding="10" style="text-align: center; background:black; color:white"
|+ Number of Channels (*)
|colspan="4" align="center" style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| '''Total Renard Channels Capable for a given Baud Rate/Refresh Interval*'''
|-
|rowspan="2" style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''Baud Rate'''
|colspan="3" align="center" style="background:#D3D3D3; color:black"| '''Refresh Interval'''
|-
!width="60" style="background:#D3D3D3; color:black"| 100 ms
!width="60" style="background:#D3D3D3; color:black"| 50 ms
!width="60" style="background:#D3D3D3; color:black"| 25 ms
|-
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''115200'''
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| 1150
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| 574
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| 286
|-
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''57600'''
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| 574
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| 286
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| 142
|-
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''38400'''
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| 382
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| 190
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| 94
|-
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''19200'''
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| 190
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| 94
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| 46
|}
([http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/images/7/72/Renard_channel_limit.png Image for use on the forum])
'''Note*''' - these numbers are based on using the Modified Renard Plugin included in Vixen 2.X as the dimmer codes that require two-byte encoding are avoided.

=== Firmware Versions ===

There are several different versions of the Renard Firmware available.

The first ('regular') version sends out a 30 uS low-going pulse (about 36 uS in areas with 50 Hz AC power), which is intended just to turn on the SSR at the right point in the AC cycle. This pulse is only long enough to activate the SSR, which then stays on by itself until the end of the AC cycle. The advantage of this version is that it draws the least amount of power from the +5V supply. The disadvantage of this version is that the current draw of AC-powered LED lights may be too low during certain parts of the AC power cycle to allow the opto/triac to stay on by itself. The current draw of each SSR output is about 6 mA, or 48 mA for 8 channels. However, the duty cycle of each SSR input is about 1:256, so the average current draw is about .18 mA (much less than the PIC itself).

The next (PWM) version of the firmware sends out a variable width low-going pulse synchronized to the AC power cycle. The pulse starts at the same time as it would in the 'regular' version of the firmware, but lasts until the end of the AC cycle instead of turning off right away. The advantage of this version is that it can be used for dimming direct-drive LEDs (those without any SSRs involved), and will be better at dimming low-current lights with SSRs (including LED lights intended for AC operation). The disadvantage of this version is that it draws a lot more current from the +5V supply in the worst case. The current draw of each SSR output is still 6 mA (or 12 mA if there are status LEDs in parallel with the SSR), for a total of 48 mA (96 mA). The worst case duty cycle is now 100%, so the full 48 mA (or 96 mA) has to be accounted for.

The last (DC) version of the firmware is very similar to the PWM firmware, also sending out a variable-width pulse. However, this pulse is not synchronized to the AC power line, so there is no need to connect a zero-crossing signal to the controller.

=== SSR Selection ===

The Renard Dimmer is designed to turn the SSRs on at different points of each AC powerline cycle (at the beginning for high-brightness, in the middle for medium brightness, and at the end for very low brightness). As a result, the SSRs must be selected for random-phase turn-on. The Renard controllers will not work properly with SSRs designed for zero-crossing turn-on.

=== Driving LED Light Strings ===

Controlling LED light strings requires the use of the special version of the firmware designed for PWM operation (as opposed to the standard version of the firmware, which controls the light intensity by pulse positioning). The reason for this is that LED current at certain voltage (brightness) levels may be too low to latch the optos/triacs in the SSRs. The PWM firmware eliminates this problem by driving the SSRs for the entire 'ON' portion of each AC power line cycle, rather than providing just a narrow pulse at the start of the 'ON' period.

=== Power Requirements ===

The power requirement for the controller varies with the exact application. The PIC itself usually draws around 5mA. Additional current is required for the oscillator (if present), the serial line interface chips, the SSRs and the voltage regulator (if any). It is hard to give guidelines for these parts, because there are many possible choices for all of these parts. It is best to consult the datasheets for the parts that are actually installed.

==== Observed Current Draw ====

The current consumption numbers were obtained by placing a 1 Ω resistor (+/- 5%) in series with the power input pin(s) to the controller, and measuring the voltage across the resistor. The columns with the label 'term' were measurements taken with a 120 Ω termination resistor connected across the RS485 output signals, while 'no term' measurements were taken with the RS485 output connector left open. These numbers should be viewed as representative, not exact. The actual numbers will vary from chip to chip, with temperature, the regulator output voltage, tolerance of the RS485 terminating resistor, and so forth.

{| class="wikitable" border="1"
|-
! PCB
! Non-PWM Current (no term)
! Non-PWM Current (term)
! PWM Current (no term)
! PWM Current (term)
|-
!Renard8
|align="right" |20 mA
|align="right" |39 mA
|align="right" |60 mA
|align="right" |80 mA
|-
!XMUS 16-Channel
|align="right" |45 mA
|align="right" |71 mA
|align="right" |122 mA
|align="right" |149 mA
|-
|}

Note: All measurements taken with the PIC configured to use an external 18.432 MHz oscillator, and with all output channels connected to SSRs (no on/off LED installed on the SSR, however). The outputs of the PIC were configured for maximum dimmer brightness (i.e. worst case situation). The measurements were taken with a DC supply connected to the pins 7,8 on the RJ45 connector, with the zero-crossing signal supplied by other means. In addition, one of the output pins was observed with an oscilloscope to verify correct operation.

== Comparison with Other Schemes ==

LOR
AL
D-LIGHT
DMX-512

== Future Directions ==

== Protocol ==

===Version 1===

==== Character Format ====

Baud Rate can vary, current firmware is programmed for 57600.

1 Start Bit, 8 Data Bits, No Parity bit, 1 Stop bit (8N1)

==== Special Characters ====
<tt>
0x7D - Pad byte, silently discarded by controller firmware, inserted by host PC to prevent Tx overrun
0x7E - Sync byte, start of packet marker.
0x7F - Escape byte, used as prefix for encoding dimmer levels that correspond to the special characters.
</tt>

To send the value 0x7D as data (rather than as a special character), send the two-character sequence '0x7F-0x2F' in its place.

To send the value 0x7E as data (rather than as a special character), send the two-character sequence '0x7F-0x30' in its place.

To send value 0x7F as data, send the two-character sequence '0x7F-0x31' in its place.

The PICs have a rather large internal clock frequency tolerance, which could cause a transmitter overrun in a PIC which has a slow clock. This could happen under the following circumstances:

1) The host PC is transmitting characters with one stop bit, and

2) One (or more) of the PICs is using its internal oscillator (instead of an external crystal) and

3) That oscillator is running at the low end of it's tolerance (1% slow),

The Renard firmware doesn't have any separate provision for transmit buffer other than the internal PIC transmit buffers. If data is arriving at the PIC faster than it can clear the UART transmitter, some data in the PIC transmitter would be over-written, causing data to be lost. The PAD byte is intended to give the transmitter in a slow PIC time to catch up.

==== Packet Format ====
<tt>
Byte 0 - 0x7E (sync byte)
Byte 1 - Command/address byte (usually 0x80, see below)
Byte 2-n - Dimmer values (0-0xFF, values 0x7D, 0x7E and 0x7F have special encoding, all others are sent raw)
</tt>

==== Firmware Operations ====

When the controller receives a character, it first checks to see if it is the sync character (0x7E). If so, this is the start of a packet, and the controller resets its packet receiving state machine. The controller re-transmits the sync byte, so that down-stream controllers can also reset their packet receiving state machines.

The next character is the command/address byte. There are three possible cases for this byte:

1) If this byte is less than 128 (0x80), it is for some protocol that this firmware cannot handle (reserved for future use). The command/address byte is retransmitted, as are all the remaining bytes in the packet.

2) If the byte is exactly 0x80, the next eight bytes (after decoding) are intended for this controller. The command/address byte is retransmitted. The next eight bytes are decoded and used internally without retransmitting. The remaining bytes in the packet are retransmitted for use by the downstream controllers.

3) If the byte is greater than 0x80, the packet is intended for some downstream controller. The command/address byte is decremented and transmitted, and the remaining bytes in the packet are retransmitted.

== Schematic ==
[[Image:Renard_generic_sch.gif]]

This is a generic Renard schematic, not specific to any particular board. It is intended as the starting point for creating a custom design, and many of the elements of this schematic can be modified for individual circumstances.

=== AC Input (J2) ===

This connector is used to bring 110VAC into the board for sensing the AC zero-crossing. The resistors R1 and R2 will need to be changed for operation at other voltages.

High voltage is present on this connector, and great care should taken with this connector and the related components to prevent damage or injury. Do not build this circuit if you are not knowledgeable about working with power-line voltages.

=== Power Connector (J5) ===

This is used to provide power (+5V) to the Renard controller.

=== Serial (RS232) Connectors (J3 and J4) ===

These connectors are used for input data (J3, from either the PC or an upstream Renard controller) and transmitting data to downstream controllers (J4).

=== SSR Connector (J1) ===

This connector is designed to interface with the Simpleio TRIAC8 board. The current firmware versions assume that the SSRs are configured in a current-sink mode. The outputs of the PIC are active low. In the inactive state the outputs are high, and are driven low to activate the SSR. The normal firmware will cause the outputs to driven low for about 30 μS (for 60 Hz operation, slightly longer for 50 Hz operation). This fairly narrow pulse will be latched in both the opto-coupler and the triac in the SSR, extending the cycle until the AC voltage drops back to 0.

In many cases it may be desireable to replace J1 with connectors that are better suited to the particular application.

=== RS232 Voltage Converter (U10, C8 and C9) ===

This is the classic MAX232 circuit used for converting between RS232 voltage levels (+/- 15V) and TTL logic levels (0 to 5V). This circuit may be replaced with RS485 interface chips (such as the SN75176 or SN75179) if operation with RS485 is desired.

== Firmware ==

See the [[Renard Firmware]] page.

[[Category:DIYC Hardware]]
[[Category:Renard]]
[[Category:DIYC Index]]

Ren-W Questions/Answers

2011-09-26T05:20:52Z

Jrd: added link to troubleshooting

*'''Can a Ren-W be connected directly to the computer?'''
*Yes, but the Ren-W board may need the RS485 patch (see troubleshooting page) for it to work reliably unless the Ren-W board is version 20100622 or later; the later revision does not require the patch. The patch uses only the ground and -485 signals. However, the board in its current state works fine with passive RS232 - RS485 adapters such as the Sintech 9309, which is available for about $8 from [http://www.dealextreme.com/search.dx/search.sintech%209309 www.dealextreme.com]. I've used this off my PC's RS-232 port and connected it directly to the Ren-W without any problems whatsoever. '''Bottom line:''' the best way to transmit directly from the computer is to use the XBee USB Explorer instead of a Ren-W. The Explorer doubles as the programmer board, but it's a fantastic transmitter, and appears to your computer just like a normal COM port, so configuring Vixen to use it is a snap. Then you can put all your Ren-Ws out in the field.

*'''Can the Ren-W be used with a USB RS-232 to RS-485 converter?'''
*Yes. See above.

*'''Will RS-232 work with the Ren-W?'''
*Yes, as long as the board has been modified as per the RS485 patch outlined on the Ren-W troubleshooting page of the Wiki (pre-20100622 boards only). In addition, you'll want to connect RS232 ground (pin 5) to the Ren-W's J1 pin 1 and RS232 pin 3 to the Ren-W's J1 pin 4.

*'''Do I have to use a special serial port setting with the Ren-W?'''
*Yes. The best setting to use is 57600 baud, 8 data bits, 2 stop bits and Mark parity. This should be configured in both your Vixen plugin AND in the XBee radios themselves. The Renard firmware should also be set to 57600 baud so that the PICs are in sync, too. Note that 57600, 8 data bits, 1 stop bit and NO parity works generally works fine, although you may experience a few data packet dropouts when there are more than 57 channels connected to the same Ren-W board, such as with a Ren64. When daisy-chaining one controller to the next via Ren-Ws, the XBee radios in the daisy-chained Ren-W/controllers must be set to 57600, 8 bits, NO parity and 1 stop bit.

*'''Can the Ren-W be powered independently instead of powered by the SS board?'''
*Yes. Connect +5vdv to either pin of the JP3 header and ground (-) to either pin of the JP4 header. Do not use a power supply that provides more than +5vdc and never connect JP3 to JP4! ('''Note:''' the Ren-W's voltage regulator should not become hot during normal use. Ren-W has been tested with a 12vdc supply and the regulator gets quite warm when powered this way. If you must power the Ren-W with 12vdc, consider attaching a heat sink to the back of the U1 voltage regulator.)

*'''What kind of current draw does a Ren-W have?'''
*More current is used when an XBee module is transmitting than receiving. The higher-powered XBee Pro module requires upwards of 290ma while the standard XBee module requires only about 50ma. The 3.3vdc voltage regulator on the Ren-W is rated up to 500ma. Because the Ren-W draws its +5v power directly from the Renard SS controller, Ren-W users who experience inconsistent or erratic transmission performance may consider replacing the SS controller’s LF50CV ½-amp voltage regulator (Mouser # 511-LF50CV) with an LF50CP instead ( # 511-LF50CP), which has a full 1A capacity.

*'''Does cat5 cable length matter when connecting a Ren-W to an SS controller? '''
*Both RS-232 and RS-485 are pretty robust and with RS-485, long cable lengths (up to 4000’) are certainly possible. We’ve tested RS-232 with 100’ cable without a problem but as the basic concept of Ren-W was to eliminate cables, keep them as short as possible anyway.

*'''Can I mix Global Broadcast mode with PTP mode?'''
*Theoretically yes, if you’re very clever with using combinations of the XBee’s PAN ID and addressing configurations and don’t mind experimenting to see what works best for you.

*'''Can I mix SS8, SS16 and SS24 boards in the same Ren-W network?'''
*Yes. In PTP mode, they will function just as if they were connected via cat5 cable (use 57600, 8,N,1 settings). In global broadcast mode where each Ren-W receives the same commands instead of only those passed on from the previous controller, results may vary. Re-read the “Renard basics and how they relate to Ren-W” section on the first page of the Ren-W Wiki.

*'''Can I mix hardwired SS controllers with Ren-W wireless controllers?'''
*Yes, Ren-W was designed to be an easy add-on to an existing wired system in either or both global broadcast, PTP or alternate PTP broadcast modes.

*'''Can I use a Ren-W with my Ren-C/595 or Ren-C/Grinch controllers?'''
*Yes. It works very well when the RS-OUT of the Ren-C is plugged into the Ren-W's input for transmitting the signal out to the network. However, when the Ren-W is to ''control'' the Ren-C/595 or Grinch, it is necessary to also use a snap choke core balun on the cat5 cable going into the Ren-C's RS-IN jack (Radio Shack part# 273-0069). The balun eliminates EMI/RFI interference generated in the cat5 cable that's caused by the XBee radio module. Without the balun, the Ren-C will likely encounter framing errors and will not communicate with the Ren-W. Power for the Ren-W can be tapped from the 595/Grinch +5v header pins, from the Ren-C’s vcc header pin immediately to the left of the 2N3904 transistor (Q1) or from the Ren-C’s vcc header pin of the JP6 PGM row (2nd pin from the top). Note that the ZC signal must be supplied to the Ren-C directly and cannot be passed along wirelessly by the Ren-W. The Ren-C’s RS-485 RS-OUT serial signal is approximately 4.52vdc, which is still within the acceptable range that Ren-W can accommodate.

*'''Do I always need two XBee modules on a repeater board?'''
*Yes and no – it depends on whether the Ren-W is serving as a normal repeater or whether you want it to be an E-mode repeater. The normal repeater board uses two XBee modules, one for receiving and the other for transmitting. The E-mode repeater uses only one XBee module which performs both receiving and transmitting functions. Other than the obvious price difference between the two types of repeater boards because of the added XBee module, it’s important to understand that there may also be a performance difference because a single XBee module can’t perform receiving and transmitting simultaneously. It’s important to note that the design of the Ren-W allows switching from E-mode to normal mode by simply disconnecting the jumper shunt on JP5 and of course, adding and configuring the second XBee module. So one can always start with the E-mode repeater and if a performance lag is encountered, you can always switch to normal mode without having to take out the soldering iron.

*'''Can I use “global broadcast” mode yet have each Renard controller respond to its own range of Vixen channels?'''
*Yes, and this is the best and most flexible way to use Ren-W in your display. You will need to use the Renard Start Address firmware to set the start address for your controller's first PIC. Be sure to read the Renard Start Address Configuration Guide for using this special firmware: [http://www.christmasinshirley.com/wiki/index.php?title=Renard_Start_Address_Configuration_Guide Renard Start Address Configuration guide]. Another way to "skin the cat" would be to think a little creatively. For example, if you used three 24-channel controllers and set up each of their Ren-W receivers so that all three received the same "broadcast" signal, you could connect lights to only channels 1-8 of the first controller (leaving channels 9-24 unused), channels 9-16 of the second controller and 17-24 of the third controller to simulate "broadcast addressing."

*'''Can the Ren-W work with other Renard controllers such as the Renard 16, Renard 24 or Renard 64?'''
*Yes, but some of the versions of those boards have different design versions and the RJ45 serial pin outs as well as the serial signal may vary from the Renard SS board’s design. The Ren-W was originally designed to be a plug-in option for WayneJ's Renard SS controllers but it has been successfully tested with wjohn's Ren64 (v. XC5), budude's Ren48LSD, fkostyun's Ren24 version 3.0 and 3.3 '''(thanks to DIYC members penfold and kychristmas!)''' and the Ren24LV, and the Simple Renard 24 and Simple Renard 32. If the RJ45 pinouts are the same as the Renard standard, it should work. However, if the pinouts are different from the Renard standard, you would have to make your own custom cat5 connection cables to connect the Ren-W to the Renard board instead of using the standard, straight-through cat5 cabling scheme. It is also possible that the use of the choke core balun (as for the Ren-C adapter) may be required to help reduce line noise.

*'''Will the Ren-W work with DMX?'''
*No, because DMX requires a higher throughput than the XBee’s maximum. An XBee is limited to 115,200 and was designed to accommodate streaming data only up to 80kbps. DMX’s communication need is normally higher than that, in the neighborhood of 250kbps. It has been tested with RPM's USB DMX dongle and was proven not to work, but you could certainly give it a go – the Ren-W simply transfers a serial signal from one place to another. You’ll obviously have to consider the connector pin outs used for DMX and you may end up creating your own connection cables to/from the Ren-W to/from your DMX setup, but a completed pair of Ren-W boards are relatively inexpensive to make so the cost of experimentation isn’t very great.

*'''Can a Ren-W be used with other light controllers or other devices to create a wireless connection?'''
*Maybe. Remember, Ren-W is essentially a wireless serial connection which means that theoretically, it could connect most any serial devices because it’s essentially transparent to the two devices involved – it merely inputs a serial data packet on the transmitting Ren-W’s J1 connector, translates it into a TTL data stream and transmits it to another Ren-W where the data stream is recombined into the serial data packet and output via the receiving Ren-W’s J2 connector. Because it’s a serial device, remember that the serial communication parameters (8 data bits, no parity, no stop in the case of the Renard controllers) can be changed to match a different packet structure such as 7 data bits, even parity, an 1 stop and that such configuration is done inside the XBee modules using the XCTU software. Obviously the transmitting and receiving units must be configured with the same communication parameters so that the serial data at the receiving Ren-W’s output port J2 is in the same format as it was originally when it went into the transmitting Ren-W. Another consideration is that an XBee’s maximum transmission speed is 115,200 bps but is really rated at only 80kbps in continuous, streaming data situations which may or may not be adequate in every case.

*'''Will the super-powered 900mhz XBee radio modules work for even greater range?'''
*Maybe. Some radios in the XBee line supposedly provide a line-of-sight range of up to 12 miles, but they may not have the same speed throughput capability that you may need and their electrical power requirements may be greater than are designed into the Ren-W board. The concept still is sound, but they may not be a drop-in replacement for the current Ren-W design. However, Ren-W has been tested to easily provide 1000' range when external Wi-Fi antennas are used (using the XBee Pro with SMA connector) so it's a bit hard to understand why you'd need more distance than that.

*'''Is a Programmer Board a necessity or can I get by without one?'''
*It's not terribly difficult to program an XBee using the Ren-W board and information about doing that is included in the configuration section of the Ren-W wiki pages. However, it is a little tricky to accomplish consistently and the programmer board is well worth the purchase and provides for duplex communication with the XBee radio, as well as a way to test modules, test communication, test settings, etc. before putting the units in the field. It can also be used as the originator transmitting module and Vixen can easily be configured to use it. So yes, you can 'get by' but like having a Pic programmer if you use Renard, having an XBee programmer can be just as beneficial. An inexpensive Ren-W explorer solution is to rig-up a special cable that connects RS232 pin 3 to pin 4 of the Ren-W's J1 jack and RS232 pin 2 to pin 4 of the Ren-W's J2 jack, with RS232 pin 5 (ground) connected to the Ren-W's pin 1. Then put the XBee radio in the TX (left) side of the board and place a jumper on JP5. This creates a duplex communication setup with your computer and you can use the XCTU software as you would normally, or even Windows HyperTerminal to program the XBee radio's settings. It's not nearly as efficient or quick as using the XBee USB Explorer board, but it can work if you're patient and want to save the $25 cost of the USB Explorer. A handy solution is to construct your own Ren-W Explorer board such as this one which makes all the proper connections as outlined above. It can also be used to easily connect your RS232 cable to a Ren-W transmitter at the PC:
::::[[File:Renw_explorer.jpg | 300px]]

*'''Will a version of Ren-W be available for parallel port controllers?'''
*No, there are no plans to create a parallel port version. Parallel port-based technology has rapidly lost popularity over the past few years and many computer manufacturers no longer even include parallel ports on their products. However, you could certainly try using a parallel-to-serial converter at the computer end, feed the resulting serial signal into J1 of the transmitting Ren-W and at the receiving Ren-W’s J2 jack, use a serial-to-parallel converter to convert it back into the parallel signal you need. Whether this will actually work is unknown; in theory it sounds like it might work but in actual practice, it may not.

*'''What kind of wireless range can I expect to get?'''
*Even though the XBee radio’s specifications indicate much longer distances, in actual practice, a regular XBee module should provide roughly 50-75’ range while the XBee Pro module can generally work up to 175’. Greater distances are possible, but signal reliability is a major issue when the radios are operating at 57,600 baud, the basic speed that is recommended for Renard SS controllers. Note that you should also expect to experience occasional light flickering or even miscued lights that are caused by data dropouts, a common occurrence with high speed wireless serial connections that use streaming data without a hardware or software flow control mechanism. If the SMA version of the XBee Pro module is used with an efficient external antenna, one might experience incredible range. In cursory testing, a 14" external SMA antenna with 6db gain easily provided about 1000' of working distance, but results may vary depending on your situation. However, extreme distances such as miles have not been tested as they seem outside the scope of intended use.

*'''Will this interact with my home wi-fi network?'''
*Possibly. Wi-fi generally operates in the 2.4ghz radio spectrum, same as the XBee radio. It has been proven that when a wi-fi device is in close proximity to an XBee radio, the XBee's reception can easily be hampered by the power of the wi-fi device's transmitter. The symptom is that the Ren-W starts acting randomly or may seem to lock up or be unresponsive. Usually removing the wi-fi device from the immediate area should solve the problem. Xbee radios can use many different Wi-Ri channels, and you may have to experiment with different settings if your experience interference. The Troubleshooting section of the Ren-W Wiki includes a notation on this very issue.

*'''I’m concerned about dropped data. How might it affect my light show?'''
*In testing, the range of dropped bytes was in the neighborhood of .014 to .044%, equivalent to between 14 - 44 bytes out of every hundred thousand bytes transmitted. A typical song of 2½ minutes’ duration with moderate lighting commands for an SS24 controller might result in about 60K of Renard control data using 50ms timing in Vixen sequencing software. Applying the percentage formula, that could result in 8 to 26 dropped bytes; at one byte per cell, that’s equivalent to 8 to 26 cells over the course of the entire song. It could appear as a light that’s one cell (50ms) late in turning on or off, or if the byte represents a cell that’s in the middle of a long ramp up or down (4 or 5 seconds), one or two very slight flickers. In most cases, viewers probably wouldn’t even notice them.

*'''Can you make it so no bytes are dropped at all?'''
*No, as this would require the use of flow control which, in a fast-paced streaming protocol that is often synchronized to a music track, tends to slow things down and data may eventually become out of sync with the music. The current Renard protocol assumes a direct wired connection, but it includes a space bit which is intended to help solve possible data flow issues and timing. There is no functionality built into the Renard’s PIC code for either software or hardware flow. Something you can try is to change Vixen’s Renard plug-in setting to use 2 stop bits instead of the normal one stop bit and see if that makes a difference for you. Of course, the stronger the radio signal is, the more likely fewer dropped bytes. Consider upgrading to the XBee Pro module if using the standard one, or possibly an SMA version and an external antenna.

*'''Can I mount the Ren-W inside one of my waterproof broadband-type controller boxes?'''
*Yes, but keep the XBee’s antenna away from any transformers, A/C power and any triacs for best performance. Also understand that the more impediments you place between the transmitting and receiving antennas the less workable distance you’ll get. Lastly, if you decide to mount the Ren-W on the inside top cover of your broadband case, consider using the side-entry RJ-45 jacks and a little longer cat5 cable instead of the top-entry version and a shorter cable. This will reduce stress on the cat5 connectors on both the Ren-W and the controller.

*'''I'm having trouble with channels 57-64 on my Ren64 with the Ren-W. What's going on?'''
*There is a timing incompatibility between the Ren-W's XBee module and the Ren64 when both are running at 57,600 baud, 8 data bits, 1 stop bit and no parity. Try using MARK parity and 2 stop bits instead. '''Update: a suggested combination firmware/hardware solution to this problem is available on the [[Ren-W Troubleshooting]] page.''' Additional viable solutions include dropping down to 38,400 baud which completely eliminates the problem. Alternately, you can certainly use the Ren64 as-is without plugging anything into channels 57-64. However, the best (and easy) solutions are found on the troubleshooting page and the change to MARK parity and 2 stop bits is the simplest. Of course, you must set both the Vixen plug-in and the XBee radio to communicate at the same settings.

*'''Can I modify the design on my own and improve it?'''
*Absolutely -- that’s in the truest spirit of DIYC! Remember also that you must then provide your design to other DIYC members without charge so that they may benefit from it, too. As a practical design suggestion, you’ll notice that the solder pads for XBee headers H1-H4 are elongated. The larger pads provide for a better home-etched board because otherwise, the tiny 2mm solder pads may be too small for enough solder to hold the headers to the board.

*'''Where can I get more information about XBee radios?'''
*Contact www.digi.com, makers of the XBee line. Their technical support staff is responsive, knowledgeable and courteous. There are also links to user forums on the digi web site and the discussions there are quite timely and helpful.

'''Additional Ren-W Links'''
*[[Renard Wireless Converter]]
*[[Ren-W BOM and Construction]]
*[[Ren-W Configuration Concepts]]
*[[Ren-W XBee Radio Configuration]]
*[[Ren-W Questions/Answers]]
*[[Ren-W Troubleshooting]]
*[[Ren-W Antenna Info]]
*[[Ren-W Controller Heater]]
*[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8102 Ren-W Topic on the DIYC Forums]

[[Category:Ren-W]]
[[Category:DIYC Index]]