doityourselfchristmas.com - User contributions [en]

DCSSR Version 2.4

2012-03-19T02:54:37Z

LabRat: /* Mounting in Housing */

=DCSSR Version 2.4 - 4 Channel DC SSR - layout by Labrat=

[[File:DCSSR_2.4.png|300px]] 

''' THIS WIKI IS A WORK IN PROGRESS AND IS CURRENTLY UNDER CONSTRUCTION. ''' 

Please see the standard [[Disclaimers|Disclaimers]] 

==What is the DCSSR Version 2.4?==
The DCSSR Version 2.4 is a 4 channel DC SSR (Solid State Relay) used to switch medium/high current DC loads such as high power LEDS, Dumb RGB Strips, DC Floodlights, solenoids, etc. The DCSSR Version 2.4 is connected to a computer thru a controller and is directly connected to your dc load and dc power supply. The DCSSR is connected to a controller such as the [[Renard_64XC|Ren64XC]] or the [[Ren48LSDv3c|Ren48LSD]] to provide the signals necessary to turn the DCSSR on and off.
It is capable of controlling DC loads from 7 - 24V. Each channel is rated for 4A and the total load for all four channels combined is 10A. The original concept design was created by DIYC user [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/member.php?11-wjohn| John Wilson (wjohn)]. This version of the layout was designed by [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/member.php?3440-LabRat| Andrew Williams (LabRat)] of Ottawa, Canada, in the spring of 2012, with the intent to make a board that would fit inside the TA-200 enclosure.

==How does the DCSSR work?==
The DCSSR Version 2.4 was designed to be used primarily to drive medium/high current DC loads that require a higher current then can be provided by other DC units such as the stand alone REN48LSD. The design allow 4 channels to be switched on/off or dimmed by switching the N Channel Mosfets on and off which provides a ground to the devices connected to the respective channels. It provides a common V+ across all of the channels.

The DCSSR Version 2.4 uses an Optoisolator to isolate the controller from the DC loads being switched. The input signals come from the DC controller using ordinary Cat5 cable plugged in to the controller and the DCSSR Version 2.4. The power for the DC loads is connected to the DC In terminals near the top right of the board and the 4 channel of DC loads are connected to the terminals along the right side of the board. 

 

==Revision History==
The Version 2.4 is currently the most recent version of the DCSSR designed by Labrat in production.

Previous version (1.6) is detailed in the "Files Section" of the DIYC website.
[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/dynamics/showentry.php?e=36&catid=8| TA200 DCSSR Version 1.6]

For wjohn DCSSR Versions 1.0-1.3 look [[4_Channel_DCSSR_Assembly_Instructions | here]].

=DCSSR Version 2.4 Parts=
In addition to the PCB, you will need the following components:
===Mouser===
<table border="1">
<tr><td>Mouser PN</td><td>Description</td><td>Qty</td></tr>
<tr><td>534-3517</td><td>Fuseholders, Clips, & Hardware PC FUSE CLIP 5 MM</td><td>2</td></tr>
<tr><td>660-CF1/4C103J</td><td>Carbon Film Resistors - Through Hole 10Kohms 5%</td><td>4</td></tr>
<tr><td>80-C322C104Z5U</td><td>Multilayer Ceramic Capacitors (MLCC) - Leaded 50volts 0.1uF Z5U</td><td>2</td></tr>
<tr><td>512-LM78L05ACZX</td><td>Linear Regulators - Standard TO-92 .1A Pos Volt</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>660-CFS1/4CT52R471J</td><td>Carbon Film Resistors - Through Hole 470 OHM 5% 1/4W</td><td>4</td></tr>
<tr><td>660-CFS1/4CT52R681J</td><td>Carbon Film Resistors - Through Hole 680 OHM 5% 1/4W</td><td>4</td></tr>
<tr><td>782-K847PH</td><td>Transistor Output Optocouplers Phototransistor Out Quad CTR 50-600%</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>538-39890-0302 </td><td>Fixed Terminal Blocks 5.0MM ECONOMY 2P 14-24AWG</td><td>5</td></tr>
<tr><td>571-1-390261-4</td><td> IC & Component Sockets 16P ECONOMY TIN</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td> 512-FQPF13N06L</td><td>MOSFET 60V N-Channel QFET Logic Level</td><td>4</td></tr>
<tr><td>571-5556416-1</td><td>Ethernet & Telecom Connectors 8 PCB TOP ENTRY</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>604-WP7113ID</td><td>Standard LED - Through Hole HI EFF RED DIFFUSED</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>604-WP7113GD</td><td>Standard LED - Through Hole GREEN DIFFUSED</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td> 71-CCF071K00GKE36</td><td> Metal Film Resistors - Through Hole 1/4watt 1Kohms 2% Rated to 1/2watt</td><td>2</td></tr>
<tr><td>504-GMA-10</td><td>10A Fuse</td><td>1</td></tr>
</table> 

[http://www.mouser.com:80/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=972c658787 Click here for Mouser Direct Project BOM]

===Heatsink===
The design calls for a heatsink to be attached to the MOSFETS to provide maximum power handling capability. It may be purchased at [http://www.diyledexpress.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=74| www.diyledexpress.com] 

===Housing===
The DCSSR Version 2.4 was designed to fit in the [http://www.aflglobal.com/cmspages/bluekey/getfile.aspx?aliaspath=/productlist/Product-Lines/Optical-Connectivity---Apparatus/Terminal-Access-TA-200-205-Terminal-Enclosure/doc/TA-200-Terminal-Enclosure TA-200 Demarcation Enclosure] available from numerous vendors including [http://wlcventures.com/zencart/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=1| www.wlcventures.com] 
[[File:TA-200.jpg|100px]] 

=Building the DCSSR Version 2.4=
==Assembly==

The DCSSR Version 2.4 is a simple device to assemble and test. It is easiest if you build the units by inserting the various components from smallest to tallest .

# Begin by inspecting the PCBs to look for any defects such as cracks or breaks. The holes on the board should be open on both sides. Then inspect and sort out the various parts for the board.
# Install the resistors:
## four 470 ohm resistors in positions R1-R4 in the center of the board. The resistors are not polarized so they can go either way.
##:[[File:DCSSR2-4-Step-1.jpg|300px]]
## four 10K ohm resistors in positions R5-R8 in the center of the board. The resistors are not polarized so they can go either way.
##:[[File:DCSSR2-4-Step-2.jpg|300px]]
## four 680 ohm resistors in positions R9-R12 on the left side of the board. The resistors are not polarized so they can go either way.
##:[[File:DCSSR2-4-Step-3.jpg|300px]]
## two 1K ohm resistors in positions R13-R14 on the top left and bottom left of the board. The resistors are not polarized so they can go either way.
##:[[File:DCSSR2-4-Step-4.jpg|300px]]
# Install the two 0.1 uF capacitors in positions C1-C2 on the bottom left of the board. The capacitors are not polarized so they can go either way.
#:[[File:DCSSR2-4-Step-5.jpg|300px]]
# Install the Install the 16 pin socket in the center of the board. Note that the notch faces the top of the board matching the silkscreen pattern on the PCB.
#:[[File:DCSSR2-4-Step-6.jpg|300px]]
# Install the light emitting diodes:
## Install the Green LED in the position marked Signal near the top of the board next to the RJ45 jack. Note that the LED is polarized and long lead should go towards the bottom of the board. (Note: silkscreen shows "FLAT" side of the LED, this can also be used to check for proper orientation)
## Insert the Red LED in the position marked Power near the bottom left of the board. Note that the LED is polarized and the long lead should face towards the top of the board.
##:[[File:DCSSR2-4-Step-7.jpg|300px]]
# Install the 5v linear regulator on the bottom left side of the board. Note that there are two sets of three holes. If you are using the small TO-92 package regulator listed in the BOM then the 7805 will use the holes closest to the caps. Note the regulator is polarized and the flat side should face left to match the orientation on the silkscreen.
#:[[File:DCSSR2-4-Step-8.jpg|300px]]
# Install the two fuse clips near the top center of the circuit board. It may be easier to put the fuse in then install them on the PCB to ensure they are installed in the correct direction and line up. Please note that fuse clips '''may''' be polarized. Examine them carefully, as they often have extra bends that should be placed on the outside end, to stop the fuse from slipping out. Be careful, the fuse holders require a fair amount of solder and heat to attach them. The FUSE should not be present when installing the clips, as the extra heat may melt the end of the fuse.
#:[[File:DCSSR2-4-Step-9.jpg|300px]] [[File:Fuse_Clip.png]]
# Connect the five 2 position screw terminal strips together by sliding the notches on the sides together. Next solder them to the circuit board.
#:[[File:DCSSR2-4-Step-10.jpg|300px]]
# Install the 4 MOSFETs in the center of the board. It may be easier to attach them to the heat sink first using heatsink compound and screws and nuts, then soldering them to the PCB so they line up correctly. The MOSFETs are polarized and they should be installed with the tab facing the screw terminals.
#:[[File:DCSSR2-4-Step-11a.jpg|300px]][[File:DCSSR2-4-Step-11b.jpg|300px]]
# Install the RJ45 jack to the top left of the board. Gently align the eight wires with the matching holes and snap the connector to the board. Solder the connector to the circuit board being careful to not short out the connectors.
#:[[File:DCSSR2-4-Step-12.jpg|300px]]
# Install the fuse in the clips if it is not already there.
#:[[File:DCSSR2-4-Step-13.jpg|300px]]
# Gently install the Optoisolator in the socket making sure that the notch faces the top of the board , matching the silkscreen drawing.
# Inspect the board to look for any missing solder joints, solder bridges or cold solder joints.

Congratulations! That completes the construction of the DCSSR Version 2.4 ! 
[[File:DCSSR2-4-Final.jpg]]

==Final Testing==
Connect power to the DC IN terminals and the POWER LED should light. 
Connect the DCSSR Version 2.4 to the DC controller by connecting the RJ45 jacks between the two units. The SIGNAL LED should light. 
NOTE: THE SIGNAL LIGHT WILL NOT LIGHT IF THE DCSSR VERSION 2.4 IS PLUGGED INTO A REN48LSD 

==Mounting in Housing==
The DCSSR Version 2.4 attach directly to the TA-200 Demarcation enclosure using #4 sheet metal screws.

Please note that the small hole in the lower corner of the board (nearest to the terminal block headers), is intended for use as a strain relief point. Place a small ''zip tie'' through this hole and around all incoming/outgoing cables, and tighten until ''snug''. This ensures that any accidental pulling on the cables won't jar the connectors loose from the terminal block headers.

=Power Requirements=
The DCSSR4 Version 2.4 can switch DC loads from 7-24VDC. The design provides local power for the optoisolator and the MOSFETs by using a local voltage regulator on the DC IN power. The voltage regulator does not work on the DC loads, so that any voltage applied to the DC IN terminals is fully available at the Output Terminals.

While the MOSFETs are capable of switching up to 10A each, the traces on the board cannot handle that much power. Each channel should be limited to 4 A and the total for all 4 channels should be limited to 10A. 

= Controlling the DCSSR Version 2.4 =
The DCSSR Version 2.4 requires a DC controller to be connected to its input for automated lighting. It can be driven by a variety of DC controllers. The [[Renard_64XC|Ren64XC]] and the [[Ren48LSDv3c|Ren48LSD]] are both configured to drive the DCSSR and have matching RJ45 jacks. 
If you are using the [[Ren48LSDv3c|Ren48LSD]] to drive the DCSSR Version 2.4, YOU MUST HAVE THE [[Ren48LSDv3c|Ren48LSD]] CONFIGURED TO SEND 5V TO THE DCSSR. IF THE [[Ren48LSDv3c|Ren48LSD]] IS SENDING ANY OTHER VOLTAGE, YOU MUST CHANGE RESISTORS 9-13 TO DIFFERENT VALUES. 

If you are driving an inductive DC load such as a solenoid,relay or a motor, you may want to add a [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flyback_diode Flyback Diode] such as a 1N4004 to provide extra protection to the MOSFET in the circuit.

The V+ is common for all four channels and the individual channels are controlled by switching the V- to ground. 

RJ45 controller inputs on the RJ45 jack should be as follows:

Pin 1 - +5v supply
Pin 2 - Channel 1 output
Pin 3 - +5v supply
Pin 4 - Channel 2 output
Pin 5 - reserved
Pin 6 - Channel 3 output
Pin 7 - LED (''signal'') ground
Pin 8 - Channel 4 output

=Schematic=
[[File:DCSSR2_4_schematic.pdf]]

=PCB=

[[File:DCSSR24.jpg|300px]] 

Gerbers are available in the FILE LIBRARY:
[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/dynamics/showentry.php?e=166&catid=8 DCSSR 2.4 Gerbers (zip archive)]

=Design Options=
If you want to drive 5.0V DC loads, you can omit the Voltage regulator and solder in a jumper between the two outer pins where the voltage regulator would go. You must use a well regulated DC voltage supply attached to the DC In power terminals. 

=Other Information=
TBD

==DCSSR Version 2.4 Discussion Threads==
TBD

==FAQ==
TBD 

[[Category:SSR]]
[[Category:DIYC Controllers]]
[[Category:DIYC Index]]

DCSSR Version 2.4

2012-03-19T02:52:43Z

LabRat: /* Assembly */

=DCSSR Version 2.4 - 4 Channel DC SSR - layout by Labrat=

[[File:DCSSR_2.4.png|300px]] 

''' THIS WIKI IS A WORK IN PROGRESS AND IS CURRENTLY UNDER CONSTRUCTION. ''' 

Please see the standard [[Disclaimers|Disclaimers]] 

==What is the DCSSR Version 2.4?==
The DCSSR Version 2.4 is a 4 channel DC SSR (Solid State Relay) used to switch medium/high current DC loads such as high power LEDS, Dumb RGB Strips, DC Floodlights, solenoids, etc. The DCSSR Version 2.4 is connected to a computer thru a controller and is directly connected to your dc load and dc power supply. The DCSSR is connected to a controller such as the [[Renard_64XC|Ren64XC]] or the [[Ren48LSDv3c|Ren48LSD]] to provide the signals necessary to turn the DCSSR on and off.
It is capable of controlling DC loads from 7 - 24V. Each channel is rated for 4A and the total load for all four channels combined is 10A. The original concept design was created by DIYC user [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/member.php?11-wjohn| John Wilson (wjohn)]. This version of the layout was designed by [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/member.php?3440-LabRat| Andrew Williams (LabRat)] of Ottawa, Canada, in the spring of 2012, with the intent to make a board that would fit inside the TA-200 enclosure.

==How does the DCSSR work?==
The DCSSR Version 2.4 was designed to be used primarily to drive medium/high current DC loads that require a higher current then can be provided by other DC units such as the stand alone REN48LSD. The design allow 4 channels to be switched on/off or dimmed by switching the N Channel Mosfets on and off which provides a ground to the devices connected to the respective channels. It provides a common V+ across all of the channels.

The DCSSR Version 2.4 uses an Optoisolator to isolate the controller from the DC loads being switched. The input signals come from the DC controller using ordinary Cat5 cable plugged in to the controller and the DCSSR Version 2.4. The power for the DC loads is connected to the DC In terminals near the top right of the board and the 4 channel of DC loads are connected to the terminals along the right side of the board. 

 

==Revision History==
The Version 2.4 is currently the most recent version of the DCSSR designed by Labrat in production.

Previous version (1.6) is detailed in the "Files Section" of the DIYC website.
[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/dynamics/showentry.php?e=36&catid=8| TA200 DCSSR Version 1.6]

For wjohn DCSSR Versions 1.0-1.3 look [[4_Channel_DCSSR_Assembly_Instructions | here]].

=DCSSR Version 2.4 Parts=
In addition to the PCB, you will need the following components:
===Mouser===
<table border="1">
<tr><td>Mouser PN</td><td>Description</td><td>Qty</td></tr>
<tr><td>534-3517</td><td>Fuseholders, Clips, & Hardware PC FUSE CLIP 5 MM</td><td>2</td></tr>
<tr><td>660-CF1/4C103J</td><td>Carbon Film Resistors - Through Hole 10Kohms 5%</td><td>4</td></tr>
<tr><td>80-C322C104Z5U</td><td>Multilayer Ceramic Capacitors (MLCC) - Leaded 50volts 0.1uF Z5U</td><td>2</td></tr>
<tr><td>512-LM78L05ACZX</td><td>Linear Regulators - Standard TO-92 .1A Pos Volt</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>660-CFS1/4CT52R471J</td><td>Carbon Film Resistors - Through Hole 470 OHM 5% 1/4W</td><td>4</td></tr>
<tr><td>660-CFS1/4CT52R681J</td><td>Carbon Film Resistors - Through Hole 680 OHM 5% 1/4W</td><td>4</td></tr>
<tr><td>782-K847PH</td><td>Transistor Output Optocouplers Phototransistor Out Quad CTR 50-600%</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>538-39890-0302 </td><td>Fixed Terminal Blocks 5.0MM ECONOMY 2P 14-24AWG</td><td>5</td></tr>
<tr><td>571-1-390261-4</td><td> IC & Component Sockets 16P ECONOMY TIN</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td> 512-FQPF13N06L</td><td>MOSFET 60V N-Channel QFET Logic Level</td><td>4</td></tr>
<tr><td>571-5556416-1</td><td>Ethernet & Telecom Connectors 8 PCB TOP ENTRY</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>604-WP7113ID</td><td>Standard LED - Through Hole HI EFF RED DIFFUSED</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>604-WP7113GD</td><td>Standard LED - Through Hole GREEN DIFFUSED</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td> 71-CCF071K00GKE36</td><td> Metal Film Resistors - Through Hole 1/4watt 1Kohms 2% Rated to 1/2watt</td><td>2</td></tr>
<tr><td>504-GMA-10</td><td>10A Fuse</td><td>1</td></tr>
</table> 

[http://www.mouser.com:80/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=972c658787 Click here for Mouser Direct Project BOM]

===Heatsink===
The design calls for a heatsink to be attached to the MOSFETS to provide maximum power handling capability. It may be purchased at [http://www.diyledexpress.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=74| www.diyledexpress.com] 

===Housing===
The DCSSR Version 2.4 was designed to fit in the [http://www.aflglobal.com/cmspages/bluekey/getfile.aspx?aliaspath=/productlist/Product-Lines/Optical-Connectivity---Apparatus/Terminal-Access-TA-200-205-Terminal-Enclosure/doc/TA-200-Terminal-Enclosure TA-200 Demarcation Enclosure] available from numerous vendors including [http://wlcventures.com/zencart/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=1| www.wlcventures.com] 
[[File:TA-200.jpg|100px]] 

=Building the DCSSR Version 2.4=
==Assembly==

The DCSSR Version 2.4 is a simple device to assemble and test. It is easiest if you build the units by inserting the various components from smallest to tallest .

# Begin by inspecting the PCBs to look for any defects such as cracks or breaks. The holes on the board should be open on both sides. Then inspect and sort out the various parts for the board.
# Install the resistors:
## four 470 ohm resistors in positions R1-R4 in the center of the board. The resistors are not polarized so they can go either way.
##:[[File:DCSSR2-4-Step-1.jpg|300px]]
## four 10K ohm resistors in positions R5-R8 in the center of the board. The resistors are not polarized so they can go either way.
##:[[File:DCSSR2-4-Step-2.jpg|300px]]
## four 680 ohm resistors in positions R9-R12 on the left side of the board. The resistors are not polarized so they can go either way.
##:[[File:DCSSR2-4-Step-3.jpg|300px]]
## two 1K ohm resistors in positions R13-R14 on the top left and bottom left of the board. The resistors are not polarized so they can go either way.
##:[[File:DCSSR2-4-Step-4.jpg|300px]]
# Install the two 0.1 uF capacitors in positions C1-C2 on the bottom left of the board. The capacitors are not polarized so they can go either way.
#:[[File:DCSSR2-4-Step-5.jpg|300px]]
# Install the Install the 16 pin socket in the center of the board. Note that the notch faces the top of the board matching the silkscreen pattern on the PCB.
#:[[File:DCSSR2-4-Step-6.jpg|300px]]
# Install the light emitting diodes:
## Install the Green LED in the position marked Signal near the top of the board next to the RJ45 jack. Note that the LED is polarized and long lead should go towards the bottom of the board. (Note: silkscreen shows "FLAT" side of the LED, this can also be used to check for proper orientation)
## Insert the Red LED in the position marked Power near the bottom left of the board. Note that the LED is polarized and the long lead should face towards the top of the board.
##:[[File:DCSSR2-4-Step-7.jpg|300px]]
# Install the 5v linear regulator on the bottom left side of the board. Note that there are two sets of three holes. If you are using the small TO-92 package regulator listed in the BOM then the 7805 will use the holes closest to the caps. Note the regulator is polarized and the flat side should face left to match the orientation on the silkscreen.
#:[[File:DCSSR2-4-Step-8.jpg|300px]]
# Install the two fuse clips near the top center of the circuit board. It may be easier to put the fuse in then install them on the PCB to ensure they are installed in the correct direction and line up. Please note that fuse clips '''may''' be polarized. Examine them carefully, as they often have extra bends that should be placed on the outside end, to stop the fuse from slipping out. Be careful, the fuse holders require a fair amount of solder and heat to attach them. The FUSE should not be present when installing the clips, as the extra heat may melt the end of the fuse.
#:[[File:DCSSR2-4-Step-9.jpg|300px]] [[File:Fuse_Clip.png]]
# Connect the five 2 position screw terminal strips together by sliding the notches on the sides together. Next solder them to the circuit board.
#:[[File:DCSSR2-4-Step-10.jpg|300px]]
# Install the 4 MOSFETs in the center of the board. It may be easier to attach them to the heat sink first using heatsink compound and screws and nuts, then soldering them to the PCB so they line up correctly. The MOSFETs are polarized and they should be installed with the tab facing the screw terminals.
#:[[File:DCSSR2-4-Step-11a.jpg|300px]][[File:DCSSR2-4-Step-11b.jpg|300px]]
# Install the RJ45 jack to the top left of the board. Gently align the eight wires with the matching holes and snap the connector to the board. Solder the connector to the circuit board being careful to not short out the connectors.
#:[[File:DCSSR2-4-Step-12.jpg|300px]]
# Install the fuse in the clips if it is not already there.
#:[[File:DCSSR2-4-Step-13.jpg|300px]]
# Gently install the Optoisolator in the socket making sure that the notch faces the top of the board , matching the silkscreen drawing.
# Inspect the board to look for any missing solder joints, solder bridges or cold solder joints.

Congratulations! That completes the construction of the DCSSR Version 2.4 ! 
[[File:DCSSR2-4-Final.jpg]]

==Final Testing==
Connect power to the DC IN terminals and the POWER LED should light. 
Connect the DCSSR Version 2.4 to the DC controller by connecting the RJ45 jacks between the two units. The SIGNAL LED should light. 
NOTE: THE SIGNAL LIGHT WILL NOT LIGHT IF THE DCSSR VERSION 2.4 IS PLUGGED INTO A REN48LSD 

==Mounting in Housing==
The DCSSR Version 2.4 attach directly to the TA-200 Demarcation enclosure using #4 sheet metal screws.

Please note that the small hole in the lower corner of the board (nearest to the terminal block headers), is intended for use as a strain relief point. Place a small ''zip tie'' through this hole and around all incoming/outgoing cables, and tighten until ''snug''. This ensure that any accidental pulling on the cables won't jar the connectors loose from the terminal block headers.

=Power Requirements=
The DCSSR4 Version 2.4 can switch DC loads from 7-24VDC. The design provides local power for the optoisolator and the MOSFETs by using a local voltage regulator on the DC IN power. The voltage regulator does not work on the DC loads, so that any voltage applied to the DC IN terminals is fully available at the Output Terminals.

While the MOSFETs are capable of switching up to 10A each, the traces on the board cannot handle that much power. Each channel should be limited to 4 A and the total for all 4 channels should be limited to 10A. 

= Controlling the DCSSR Version 2.4 =
The DCSSR Version 2.4 requires a DC controller to be connected to its input for automated lighting. It can be driven by a variety of DC controllers. The [[Renard_64XC|Ren64XC]] and the [[Ren48LSDv3c|Ren48LSD]] are both configured to drive the DCSSR and have matching RJ45 jacks. 
If you are using the [[Ren48LSDv3c|Ren48LSD]] to drive the DCSSR Version 2.4, YOU MUST HAVE THE [[Ren48LSDv3c|Ren48LSD]] CONFIGURED TO SEND 5V TO THE DCSSR. IF THE [[Ren48LSDv3c|Ren48LSD]] IS SENDING ANY OTHER VOLTAGE, YOU MUST CHANGE RESISTORS 9-13 TO DIFFERENT VALUES. 

If you are driving an inductive DC load such as a solenoid,relay or a motor, you may want to add a [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flyback_diode Flyback Diode] such as a 1N4004 to provide extra protection to the MOSFET in the circuit.

The V+ is common for all four channels and the individual channels are controlled by switching the V- to ground. 

RJ45 controller inputs on the RJ45 jack should be as follows:

Pin 1 - +5v supply
Pin 2 - Channel 1 output
Pin 3 - +5v supply
Pin 4 - Channel 2 output
Pin 5 - reserved
Pin 6 - Channel 3 output
Pin 7 - LED (''signal'') ground
Pin 8 - Channel 4 output

=Schematic=
[[File:DCSSR2_4_schematic.pdf]]

=PCB=

[[File:DCSSR24.jpg|300px]] 

Gerbers are available in the FILE LIBRARY:
[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/dynamics/showentry.php?e=166&catid=8 DCSSR 2.4 Gerbers (zip archive)]

=Design Options=
If you want to drive 5.0V DC loads, you can omit the Voltage regulator and solder in a jumper between the two outer pins where the voltage regulator would go. You must use a well regulated DC voltage supply attached to the DC In power terminals. 

=Other Information=
TBD

==DCSSR Version 2.4 Discussion Threads==
TBD

==FAQ==
TBD 

[[Category:SSR]]
[[Category:DIYC Controllers]]
[[Category:DIYC Index]]

DCSSR Version 2.4

2012-03-19T02:49:13Z

LabRat: /* Assembly */

=DCSSR Version 2.4 - 4 Channel DC SSR - layout by Labrat=

[[File:DCSSR_2.4.png|300px]] 

''' THIS WIKI IS A WORK IN PROGRESS AND IS CURRENTLY UNDER CONSTRUCTION. ''' 

Please see the standard [[Disclaimers|Disclaimers]] 

==What is the DCSSR Version 2.4?==
The DCSSR Version 2.4 is a 4 channel DC SSR (Solid State Relay) used to switch medium/high current DC loads such as high power LEDS, Dumb RGB Strips, DC Floodlights, solenoids, etc. The DCSSR Version 2.4 is connected to a computer thru a controller and is directly connected to your dc load and dc power supply. The DCSSR is connected to a controller such as the [[Renard_64XC|Ren64XC]] or the [[Ren48LSDv3c|Ren48LSD]] to provide the signals necessary to turn the DCSSR on and off.
It is capable of controlling DC loads from 7 - 24V. Each channel is rated for 4A and the total load for all four channels combined is 10A. The original concept design was created by DIYC user [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/member.php?11-wjohn| John Wilson (wjohn)]. This version of the layout was designed by [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/member.php?3440-LabRat| Andrew Williams (LabRat)] of Ottawa, Canada, in the spring of 2012, with the intent to make a board that would fit inside the TA-200 enclosure.

==How does the DCSSR work?==
The DCSSR Version 2.4 was designed to be used primarily to drive medium/high current DC loads that require a higher current then can be provided by other DC units such as the stand alone REN48LSD. The design allow 4 channels to be switched on/off or dimmed by switching the N Channel Mosfets on and off which provides a ground to the devices connected to the respective channels. It provides a common V+ across all of the channels.

The DCSSR Version 2.4 uses an Optoisolator to isolate the controller from the DC loads being switched. The input signals come from the DC controller using ordinary Cat5 cable plugged in to the controller and the DCSSR Version 2.4. The power for the DC loads is connected to the DC In terminals near the top right of the board and the 4 channel of DC loads are connected to the terminals along the right side of the board. 

 

==Revision History==
The Version 2.4 is currently the most recent version of the DCSSR designed by Labrat in production.

Previous version (1.6) is detailed in the "Files Section" of the DIYC website.
[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/dynamics/showentry.php?e=36&catid=8| TA200 DCSSR Version 1.6]

For wjohn DCSSR Versions 1.0-1.3 look [[4_Channel_DCSSR_Assembly_Instructions | here]].

=DCSSR Version 2.4 Parts=
In addition to the PCB, you will need the following components:
===Mouser===
<table border="1">
<tr><td>Mouser PN</td><td>Description</td><td>Qty</td></tr>
<tr><td>534-3517</td><td>Fuseholders, Clips, & Hardware PC FUSE CLIP 5 MM</td><td>2</td></tr>
<tr><td>660-CF1/4C103J</td><td>Carbon Film Resistors - Through Hole 10Kohms 5%</td><td>4</td></tr>
<tr><td>80-C322C104Z5U</td><td>Multilayer Ceramic Capacitors (MLCC) - Leaded 50volts 0.1uF Z5U</td><td>2</td></tr>
<tr><td>512-LM78L05ACZX</td><td>Linear Regulators - Standard TO-92 .1A Pos Volt</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>660-CFS1/4CT52R471J</td><td>Carbon Film Resistors - Through Hole 470 OHM 5% 1/4W</td><td>4</td></tr>
<tr><td>660-CFS1/4CT52R681J</td><td>Carbon Film Resistors - Through Hole 680 OHM 5% 1/4W</td><td>4</td></tr>
<tr><td>782-K847PH</td><td>Transistor Output Optocouplers Phototransistor Out Quad CTR 50-600%</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>538-39890-0302 </td><td>Fixed Terminal Blocks 5.0MM ECONOMY 2P 14-24AWG</td><td>5</td></tr>
<tr><td>571-1-390261-4</td><td> IC & Component Sockets 16P ECONOMY TIN</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td> 512-FQPF13N06L</td><td>MOSFET 60V N-Channel QFET Logic Level</td><td>4</td></tr>
<tr><td>571-5556416-1</td><td>Ethernet & Telecom Connectors 8 PCB TOP ENTRY</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>604-WP7113ID</td><td>Standard LED - Through Hole HI EFF RED DIFFUSED</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>604-WP7113GD</td><td>Standard LED - Through Hole GREEN DIFFUSED</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td> 71-CCF071K00GKE36</td><td> Metal Film Resistors - Through Hole 1/4watt 1Kohms 2% Rated to 1/2watt</td><td>2</td></tr>
<tr><td>504-GMA-10</td><td>10A Fuse</td><td>1</td></tr>
</table> 

[http://www.mouser.com:80/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=972c658787 Click here for Mouser Direct Project BOM]

===Heatsink===
The design calls for a heatsink to be attached to the MOSFETS to provide maximum power handling capability. It may be purchased at [http://www.diyledexpress.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=74| www.diyledexpress.com] 

===Housing===
The DCSSR Version 2.4 was designed to fit in the [http://www.aflglobal.com/cmspages/bluekey/getfile.aspx?aliaspath=/productlist/Product-Lines/Optical-Connectivity---Apparatus/Terminal-Access-TA-200-205-Terminal-Enclosure/doc/TA-200-Terminal-Enclosure TA-200 Demarcation Enclosure] available from numerous vendors including [http://wlcventures.com/zencart/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=1| www.wlcventures.com] 
[[File:TA-200.jpg|100px]] 

=Building the DCSSR Version 2.4=
==Assembly==

The DCSSR Version 2.4 is a simple device to assemble and test. It is easiest if you build the units by inserting the various components from smallest to tallest .

# Begin by inspecting the PCBs to look for any defects such as cracks or breaks. The holes on the board should be open on both sides. Then inspect and sort out the various parts for the board.
# Install the resistors:
## four 470 ohm resistors in positions R1-R4 in the center of the board. The resistors are not polarized so they can go either way.
##:[[File:DCSSR2-4-Step-1.jpg|300px]]
## four 10K ohm resistors in positions R5-R8 in the center of the board. The resistors are not polarized so they can go either way.
##:[[File:DCSSR2-4-Step-2.jpg|300px]]
## four 680 ohm resistors in positions R9-R12 on the left side of the board. The resistors are not polarized so they can go either way.
##:[[File:DCSSR2-4-Step-3.jpg|300px]]
## two 1K ohm resistors in positions R13-R14 on the top left and bottom left of the board. The resistors are not polarized so they can go either way.
##:[[File:DCSSR2-4-Step-4.jpg|300px]]
# Install the two 0.1 uF capacitors in positions C1-C2 on the bottom left of the board. The capacitors are not polarized so they can go either way.
#:[[File:DCSSR2-4-Step-5.jpg|300px]]
# Install the Install the 16 pin socket in the center of the board. Note that the notch faces the top of the board matching the silkscreen pattern on the PCB.
#:[[File:DCSSR2-4-Step-6.jpg|300px]]
# Install the light emitting diodes:
## Install the Green LED in the position marked Signal near the top of the board next to the RJ45 jack. Note that the LED is polarized and long lead should go towards the bottom of the board.
## Insert the Red LED in the position marked Power near the bottom left of the board. Note that the LED is polarized and the long lead should face towards the top of the board.
##:[[File:DCSSR2-4-Step-7.jpg|300px]]
# Install the 5v linear regulator on the bottom left side of the board. Note that there are two sets of three holes. If you are using the small TO-92 package regulator listed in the BOM then the 7805 will use the holes closest to the caps. Note the regulator is polarized and the flat side should face left to match the orientation on the silkscreen.
#:[[File:DCSSR2-4-Step-8.jpg|300px]]
# Install the two fuse clips near the top center of the circuit board. It may be easier to put the fuse in then install them on the PCB to ensure they are installed in the correct direction and line up. Please note that fuse clips '''may''' be polarized. Examine them carefully, as they often have extra bends that should be placed on the outside end, to stop the fuse from slipping out. Be careful, the fuse holders require a fair amount of solder and heat to attach them. The FUSE should not be present when installing the clips, as the extra heat may melt the end of the fuse.
#:[[File:DCSSR2-4-Step-9.jpg|300px]] [[File:Fuse_Clip.png]]
# Connect the five 2 position screw terminal strips together by sliding the notches on the sides together. Next solder them to the circuit board.
#:[[File:DCSSR2-4-Step-10.jpg|300px]]
# Install the 4 MOSFETs in the center of the board. It may be easier to attach them to the heat sink first using heatsink compound and screws and nuts, then soldering them to the PCB so they line up correctly. The MOSFETs are polarized and they should be installed with the tab facing the screw terminals.
#:[[File:DCSSR2-4-Step-11a.jpg|300px]][[File:DCSSR2-4-Step-11b.jpg|300px]]
# Install the RJ45 jack to the top left of the board. Gently align the eight wires with the matching holes and snap the connector to the board. Solder the connector to the circuit board being careful to not short out the connectors.
#:[[File:DCSSR2-4-Step-12.jpg|300px]]
# Install the fuse in the clips if it is not already there.
#:[[File:DCSSR2-4-Step-13.jpg|300px]]
# Gently install the Optoisolator in the socket making sure that the notch faces the top of the board , matching the silkscreen drawing.
# Inspect the board to look for any missing solder joints, solder bridges or cold solder joints.

Congratulations! That completes the construction of the DCSSR Version 2.4 ! 
[[File:DCSSR2-4-Final.jpg]]

==Final Testing==
Connect power to the DC IN terminals and the POWER LED should light. 
Connect the DCSSR Version 2.4 to the DC controller by connecting the RJ45 jacks between the two units. The SIGNAL LED should light. 
NOTE: THE SIGNAL LIGHT WILL NOT LIGHT IF THE DCSSR VERSION 2.4 IS PLUGGED INTO A REN48LSD 

==Mounting in Housing==
The DCSSR Version 2.4 attach directly to the TA-200 Demarcation enclosure using #4 sheet metal screws.

Please note that the small hole in the lower corner of the board (nearest to the terminal block headers), is intended for use as a strain relief point. Place a small ''zip tie'' through this hole and around all incoming/outgoing cables, and tighten until ''snug''. This ensure that any accidental pulling on the cables won't jar the connectors loose from the terminal block headers.

=Power Requirements=
The DCSSR4 Version 2.4 can switch DC loads from 7-24VDC. The design provides local power for the optoisolator and the MOSFETs by using a local voltage regulator on the DC IN power. The voltage regulator does not work on the DC loads, so that any voltage applied to the DC IN terminals is fully available at the Output Terminals.

While the MOSFETs are capable of switching up to 10A each, the traces on the board cannot handle that much power. Each channel should be limited to 4 A and the total for all 4 channels should be limited to 10A. 

= Controlling the DCSSR Version 2.4 =
The DCSSR Version 2.4 requires a DC controller to be connected to its input for automated lighting. It can be driven by a variety of DC controllers. The [[Renard_64XC|Ren64XC]] and the [[Ren48LSDv3c|Ren48LSD]] are both configured to drive the DCSSR and have matching RJ45 jacks. 
If you are using the [[Ren48LSDv3c|Ren48LSD]] to drive the DCSSR Version 2.4, YOU MUST HAVE THE [[Ren48LSDv3c|Ren48LSD]] CONFIGURED TO SEND 5V TO THE DCSSR. IF THE [[Ren48LSDv3c|Ren48LSD]] IS SENDING ANY OTHER VOLTAGE, YOU MUST CHANGE RESISTORS 9-13 TO DIFFERENT VALUES. 

If you are driving an inductive DC load such as a solenoid,relay or a motor, you may want to add a [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flyback_diode Flyback Diode] such as a 1N4004 to provide extra protection to the MOSFET in the circuit.

The V+ is common for all four channels and the individual channels are controlled by switching the V- to ground. 

RJ45 controller inputs on the RJ45 jack should be as follows:

Pin 1 - +5v supply
Pin 2 - Channel 1 output
Pin 3 - +5v supply
Pin 4 - Channel 2 output
Pin 5 - reserved
Pin 6 - Channel 3 output
Pin 7 - LED (''signal'') ground
Pin 8 - Channel 4 output

=Schematic=
[[File:DCSSR2_4_schematic.pdf]]

=PCB=

[[File:DCSSR24.jpg|300px]] 

Gerbers are available in the FILE LIBRARY:
[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/dynamics/showentry.php?e=166&catid=8 DCSSR 2.4 Gerbers (zip archive)]

=Design Options=
If you want to drive 5.0V DC loads, you can omit the Voltage regulator and solder in a jumper between the two outer pins where the voltage regulator would go. You must use a well regulated DC voltage supply attached to the DC In power terminals. 

=Other Information=
TBD

==DCSSR Version 2.4 Discussion Threads==
TBD

==FAQ==
TBD 

[[Category:SSR]]
[[Category:DIYC Controllers]]
[[Category:DIYC Index]]

File:Fuse Clip.png

2012-03-19T02:47:29Z

LabRat: Image highlighting orientation concerns for installed FUSE CLIPS.

Image highlighting orientation concerns for installed FUSE CLIPS.

DCSSR Version 2.4

2012-03-16T02:23:29Z

LabRat: /* PCB */

=DCSSR Version 2.4 - 4 Channel DC SSR - layout by Labrat=

[[File:DCSSR_2.4.png|300px]] 

''' THIS WIKI IS A WORK IN PROGRESS AND IS CURRENTLY UNDER CONSTRUCTION. ''' 

Please see the standard [[Disclaimers|Disclaimers]] 

==What is the DCSSR Version 2.4?==
The DCSSR Version 2.4 is a 4 channel DC SSR (Solid State Relay) used to switch medium/high current DC loads such as high power LEDS, Dumb RGB Strips, DC Floodlights, solenoids, etc. The DCSSR Version 2.4 is connected to a computer thru a controller and is directly connected to your dc load and dc power supply. The DCSSR is connected to a controller such as the [[Renard_64XC|Ren64XC]] or the [[Ren48LSDv3c|Ren48LSD]] to provide the signals necessary to turn the DCSSR on and off.
It is capable of controlling DC loads from 7 - 24V. Each channel is rated for 4A and the total load for all four channels combined is 10A. The original concept design was created by DIYC user [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/member.php?11-wjohn| John Wilson (wjohn)]. This version of the layout was designed by [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/member.php?3440-LabRat| Andrew Williams (LabRat)] of Ottawa, Canada, in the spring of 2012, with the intent to make a board that would fit inside the TA-200 enclosure.

==How does the DCSSR work?==
The DCSSR Version 2.4 was designed to be used primarily to drive medium/high current DC loads that require a higher current then can be provided by other DC units such as the stand alone REN48LSD. The design allow 4 channels to be switched on/off or dimmed by switching the N Channel Mosfets on and off which provides a ground to the devices connected to the respective channels. It provides a common V+ across all of the channels.

The DCSSR Version 2.4 uses an Optoisolator to isolate the controller from the DC loads being switched. The input signals come from the DC controller using ordinary Cat5 cable plugged in to the controller and the DCSSR Version 2.4. The power for the DC loads is connected to the DC In terminals near the top right of the board and the 4 channel of DC loads are connected to the terminals along the right side of the board. 

 

==Revision History==
The Version 2.4 is currently the most recent version of the DCSSR designed by Labrat in production.

Previous version (1.6) is detailed in the "Files Section" of the DIYC website.
[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/dynamics/showentry.php?e=36&catid=8| TA200 DCSSR Version 1.6]

For wjohn DCSSR Versions 1.0-1.3 look [[4_Channel_DCSSR_Assembly_Instructions | here]].

=DCSSR Version 2.4 Parts=
In addition to the PCB, you will need the following components:
===Mouser===
<table border="1"><tr><td>'''Mouser BOM'''</td></tr>
<tr><td>Mouser PN</td><td>Description</td><td>Qty</td></tr>
<tr><td>534-3517</td><td>Fuseholders, Clips, & Hardware PC FUSE CLIP 5 MM</td><td>2</td></tr>
<tr><td>660-CF1/4C103J</td><td>Carbon Film Resistors - Through Hole 10Kohms 5%</td><td>4</td></tr>
<tr><td>80-C322C104Z5U</td><td>Multilayer Ceramic Capacitors (MLCC) - Leaded 50volts 0.1uF Z5U</td><td>2</td></tr>
<tr><td>512-LM78L05ACZX</td><td>Linear Regulators - Standard TO-92 .1A Pos Volt</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>660-CFS1/4CT52R471J</td><td>Carbon Film Resistors - Through Hole 470 OHM 5% 1/4W</td><td>4</td></tr>
<tr><td>660-CFS1/4CT52R681J</td><td>Carbon Film Resistors - Through Hole 680 OHM 5% 1/4W</td><td>4</td></tr>
<tr><td>782-K847PH</td><td>Transistor Output Optocouplers Phototransistor Out Quad CTR 50-600%</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>538-39890-0302 </td><td>Fixed Terminal Blocks 5.0MM ECONOMY 2P 14-24AWG</td><td>5</td></tr>
<tr><td>571-1-390261-4</td><td> IC & Component Sockets 16P ECONOMY TIN</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td> 512-FQPF13N06L</td><td>MOSFET 60V N-Channel QFET Logic Level</td><td>4</td></tr>
<tr><td>571-5556416-1</td><td>Ethernet & Telecom Connectors 8 PCB TOP ENTRY</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>604-WP7113ID</td><td>Standard LED - Through Hole HI EFF RED DIFFUSED</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>604-WP7113GD</td><td>Standard LED - Through Hole GREEN DIFFUSED</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td> 71-CCF071K00GKE36</td><td> Metal Film Resistors - Through Hole 1/4watt 1Kohms 2% Rated to 1/2watt</td><td>2</td></tr>
<tr><td>504-GMA-10</td><td>10A Fuse</td><td>1</td></tr>
</table> 

[http://www.mouser.com:80/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=972c658787 Click here for Mouser Direct Project BOM]

===Heatsink===
The design calls for a heatsink to be attached to the MOSFETS to provide maximum power handling capability. It may be purchased at [http://www.diyledexpress.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=74| www.diyledexpress.com] 

===Housing===
The DCSSR Version 2.4 was designed to fit in the [http://www.aflglobal.com/cmspages/bluekey/getfile.aspx?aliaspath=/productlist/Product-Lines/Optical-Connectivity---Apparatus/Terminal-Access-TA-200-205-Terminal-Enclosure/doc/TA-200-Terminal-Enclosure TA-200 Demarcation Enclosure] available from numerous vendors including [http://wlcventures.com/zencart/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=1| www.wlcventures.com] 
[[File:TA-200.jpg|100px]] 

=Building the DCSSR Version 2.4=
==Assembly==

The DCSSR Version 2.4 is a simple device to assemble and test. It is easiest if you build the units by inserting the various components from smallest to tallest .

# Begin by inspecting the PCBs to look for any defects such as cracks or breaks. The holes on the board should be open on both sides. Then inspect and sort out the various parts for the board.
# Install the resistors:
## four 470 ohm resistors in positions R1-R4 in the center of the board. The resistors are not polarized so they can go either way.
## four 10K ohm resistors in positions R5-R8 in the center of the board. The resistors are not polarized so they can go either way.
## four 680 ohm resistors in positions R9-R12 on the left side of the board. The resistors are not polarized so they can go either way.
## two 1K ohm resistors in positions R13-R14 on the top left and bottom left of the board. The resistors are not polarized so they can go either way.
# Install the two 0.1 uF capacitors in positions C1-C2 on the bottom left of the board. The capacitors are not polarized so they can go either way.
# Install the Install the 16 pin socket in the center of the board. Note that the notch faces the top of the board matching the silkscreen pattern on the PCB.
# Install the light emitting diodes:
## Install the Green LED in the position marked Signal near the top of the board next to the RJ45 jack. Note that the LED is polarized and long lead should go towards the bottom of the board.
## Insert the Red LED in the position marked Power near the bottom left of the board. Note that the LED is polarized and the long lead should face towards the top of the board.
# Install the 5v linear regulator on the bottom left side of the board. Note that there are two sets of three holes. If you are using the small TO-92 package regulator listed in the BOM then the 7805 will use the holes closest to the caps. Note the regulator is polarized and the flat side should face left to match the orientation on the silkscreen.
# Install the two fuse clips near the top center of the circuit board. It may be easier to put the fuse in then install them on the PCB to ensure they are installed in the correct direction and line up. Please note that fuse clips '''may''' be polarized. Examine them carefully, as they often have extra bends that should be placed on the outside end, to stop the fuse from slipping out. Be careful, the fuse holders require a fair amount of solder and heat to attach them. The FUSE should not be present when installing the clips, as the extra heat may melt the end of the fuse.
# Connect the five 2 position screw terminal strips together by sliding the notches on the sides together. Next solder them to the circuit board.
# Install the 4 MOSFETs in the center of the board. It may be easier to attach them to the heat sink first using heatsink compound and screws and nuts, then soldering them to the PCB so they line up correctly. The MOSFETs are polarized and they should be installed with the tab facing the screw terminals.
# Install the RJ45 jack to the top left of the board. Gently align the eight wires with the matching holes and snap the connector to the board. Solder the connector to the circuit board being careful to not short out the connectors.
# Install the fuse in the clips if it is not already there.
# Gently install the Optoisolator in the socket making sure that the notch faces the top of the board , matching the silkscreen drawing.
# Inspect the board to look for any missing solder joints, solder bridges or cold solder joints.

Congratulations! That completes the construction of the DCSSR Version 2.4 ! 

==Final Testing==
TBD 
Connect power to the DC IN terminals and the POWER LED should light. 
Connect the DCSSR Version 2.4 to the DC controller by connecting the RJ45 jacks between the two units. The SIGNAL LED should light. 
NOTE: THE SIGNAL LIGHT WILL NOT LIGHT IF THE DCSSR VERSION 2.4 IS PLUGGED INTO A REN48LSD 

==Mounting in Housing==
The DCSSR Version 2.4 attach directly to the TA-200 Demarcation enclosure using #4 sheet metal screws.

Please note that the small hole in the lower corner of the board (nearest to the terminal block headers), is intended for use as a strain relief point. Place a small ''zip tie'' through this hole and around all incoming/outgoing cables, and tighten until ''snug''. This ensure that any accidental pulling on the cables won't jar the connectors loose from the terminal block headers.

=Power Requirements=
The DCSSR4 Version 2.4 can switch DC loads from 7-24VDC. The design provides local power for the optoisolator and the MOSFETs by using a local voltage regulator on the DC IN power. The voltage regulator does not work on the DC loads, so that any voltage applied to the DC IN terminals is fully available at the Output Terminals.

While the MOSFETs are capable of switching up to 10A each, the traces on the board cannot handle that much power. Each channel should be limited to 4 A and the total for all 4 channels should be limited to 10A. 

= Controlling the DCSSR Version 2.4 =
The DCSSR Version 2.4 requires a DC controller to be connected to its input for automated lighting. It can be driven by a variety of DC controllers. The [[Renard_64XC|Ren64XC]] and the [[Ren48LSDv3c|Ren48LSD]] are both configured to drive the DCSSR and have matching RJ45 jacks. 
If you are using the [[Ren48LSDv3c|Ren48LSD]] to drive the DCSSR Version 2.4, YOU MUST HAVE THE [[Ren48LSDv3c|Ren48LSD]] CONFIGURED TO SEND 5V TO THE DCSSR. IF THE [[Ren48LSDv3c|Ren48LSD]] IS SENDING ANY OTHER VOLTAGE, YOU MUST CHANGE RESISTORS 9-13 TO DIFFERENT VALUES. 

If you are driving an inductive DC load such as a solenoid,relay or a motor, you may want to add a [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flyback_diode Flyback Diode] such as a 1N4004 to provide extra protection to the MOSFET in the circuit.

The V+ is common for all four channels and the individual channels are controlled by switching the V- to ground. 

RJ45 controller inputs on the RJ45 jack should be as follows:

Pin 1 - +5v supply
Pin 2 - Channel 1 output
Pin 3 - +5v supply
Pin 4 - Channel 2 output
Pin 5 - reserved
Pin 6 - Channel 3 output
Pin 7 - LED (''signal'') ground
Pin 8 - Channel 4 output

=Schematic=
[[File:DCSSR2_4_schematic.pdf]]

=PCB=

[[File:DCSSR24.jpg|300px]] 

Gerbers are available in the FILE LIBRARY:
[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/dynamics/showentry.php?e=166&catid=8 DCSSR 2.4 Gerbers (zip archive)]

=Design Options=
If you want to drive 5.0V DC loads, you can omit the Voltage regulator and solder in a jumper between the two outer pins where the voltage regulator would go. You must use a well regulated DC voltage supply attached to the DC In power terminals. 

=Other Information=
TBD

==DCSSR Version 2.4 Discussion Threads==
TBD

==FAQ==
TBD 

[[Category:SSR]]
[[Category:DIYC Controllers]]
[[Category:DIYC Index]]

DCSSR Version 2.4

2012-03-16T01:51:35Z

LabRat: /* Schematic */

=DCSSR Version 2.4 - 4 Channel DC SSR - layout by Labrat=

[[File:DCSSR_2.4.png|300px]] 

''' THIS WIKI IS A WORK IN PROGRESS AND IS CURRENTLY UNDER CONSTRUCTION. ''' 

Please see the standard [[Disclaimers|Disclaimers]] 

==What is the DCSSR Version 2.4?==
The DCSSR Version 2.4 is a 4 channel DC SSR (Solid State Relay) used to switch medium/high current DC loads such as high power LEDS, Dumb RGB Strips, DC Floodlights, solenoids, etc. The DCSSR Version 2.4 is connected to a computer thru a controller and is directly connected to your dc load and dc power supply. The DCSSR is connected to a controller such as the [[Renard_64XC|Ren64XC]] or the [[Ren48LSDv3c|Ren48LSD]] to provide the signals necessary to turn the DCSSR on and off.
It is capable of controlling DC loads from 7 - 24V. Each channel is rated for 4A and the total load for all four channels combined is 10A. The original concept design was created by DIYC user [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/member.php?11-wjohn| John Wilson (wjohn)]. This version of the layout was designed by [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/member.php?3440-LabRat| Andrew Williams (LabRat)] of Ottawa, Canada, in the spring of 2012, with the intent to make a board that would fit inside the TA-200 enclosure.

==How does the DCSSR work?==
The DCSSR Version 2.4 was designed to be used primarily to drive medium/high current DC loads that require a higher current then can be provided by other DC units such as the stand alone REN48LSD. The design allow 4 channels to be switched on/off or dimmed by switching the N Channel Mosfets on and off which provides a ground to the devices connected to the respective channels. It provides a common V+ across all of the channels.

The DCSSR Version 2.4 uses an Optoisolator to isolate the controller from the DC loads being switched. The input signals come from the DC controller using ordinary Cat5 cable plugged in to the controller and the DCSSR Version 2.4. The power for the DC loads is connected to the DC In terminals near the top right of the board and the 4 channel of DC loads are connected to the terminals along the right side of the board. 

 

==Revision History==
The Version 2.4 is currently the most recent version of the DCSSR designed by Labrat in production.

Previous version (1.6) is detailed in the "Files Section" of the DIYC website.
[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/dynamics/showentry.php?e=36&catid=8| TA200 DCSSR Version 1.6]

For wjohn DCSSR Versions 1.0-1.3 look [[4_Channel_DCSSR_Assembly_Instructions | here]].

=DCSSR Version 2.4 Parts=
In addition to the PCB, you will need the following components:
===Mouser===
<table border="1"><tr><td>'''Mouser BOM'''</td></tr>
<tr><td>Mouser PN</td><td>Description</td><td>Qty</td></tr>
<tr><td>534-3517</td><td>Fuseholders, Clips, & Hardware PC FUSE CLIP 5 MM</td><td>2</td></tr>
<tr><td>660-CF1/4C103J</td><td>Carbon Film Resistors - Through Hole 10Kohms 5%</td><td>4</td></tr>
<tr><td>80-C322C104Z5U</td><td>Multilayer Ceramic Capacitors (MLCC) - Leaded 50volts 0.1uF Z5U</td><td>2</td></tr>
<tr><td>512-LM78L05ACZX</td><td>Linear Regulators - Standard TO-92 .1A Pos Volt</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>660-CFS1/4CT52R471J</td><td>Carbon Film Resistors - Through Hole 470 OHM 5% 1/4W</td><td>4</td></tr>
<tr><td>660-CFS1/4CT52R681J</td><td>Carbon Film Resistors - Through Hole 680 OHM 5% 1/4W</td><td>4</td></tr>
<tr><td>782-K847PH</td><td>Transistor Output Optocouplers Phototransistor Out Quad CTR 50-600%</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>538-39890-0302 </td><td>Fixed Terminal Blocks 5.0MM ECONOMY 2P 14-24AWG</td><td>5</td></tr>
<tr><td>571-1-390261-4</td><td> IC & Component Sockets 16P ECONOMY TIN</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td> 512-FQPF13N06L</td><td>MOSFET 60V N-Channel QFET Logic Level</td><td>4</td></tr>
<tr><td>571-5556416-1</td><td>Ethernet & Telecom Connectors 8 PCB TOP ENTRY</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>604-WP7113ID</td><td>Standard LED - Through Hole HI EFF RED DIFFUSED</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>604-WP7113GD</td><td>Standard LED - Through Hole GREEN DIFFUSED</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td> 71-CCF071K00GKE36</td><td> Metal Film Resistors - Through Hole 1/4watt 1Kohms 2% Rated to 1/2watt</td><td>2</td></tr>
<tr><td>504-GMA-10</td><td>10A Fuse</td><td>1</td></tr>
</table> 

[http://www.mouser.com:80/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=972c658787 Click here for Mouser Direct Project BOM]

===Heatsink===
The design calls for a heatsink to be attached to the MOSFETS to provide maximum power handling capability. It may be purchased at [http://www.diyledexpress.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=74| www.diyledexpress.com] 

===Housing===
The DCSSR Version 2.4 was designed to fit in the [http://www.aflglobal.com/cmspages/bluekey/getfile.aspx?aliaspath=/productlist/Product-Lines/Optical-Connectivity---Apparatus/Terminal-Access-TA-200-205-Terminal-Enclosure/doc/TA-200-Terminal-Enclosure TA-200 Demarcation Enclosure] available from numerous vendors including [http://wlcventures.com/zencart/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=1| www.wlcventures.com] 
[[File:TA-200.jpg|100px]] 

=Building the DCSSR Version 2.4=
==Assembly==

The DCSSR Version 2.4 is a simple device to assemble and test. It is easiest if you build the units by inserting the various components from smallest to tallest .

# Begin by inspecting the PCBs to look for any defects such as cracks or breaks. The holes on the board should be open on both sides. Then inspect and sort out the various parts for the board.
# Install the resistors:
## four 470 ohm resistors in positions R1-R4 in the center of the board. The resistors are not polarized so they can go either way.
## four 10K ohm resistors in positions R5-R8 in the center of the board. The resistors are not polarized so they can go either way.
## four 680 ohm resistors in positions R9-R12 on the left side of the board. The resistors are not polarized so they can go either way.
## two 1K ohm resistors in positions R13-R14 on the top left and bottom left of the board. The resistors are not polarized so they can go either way.
# Install the two 0.1 uF capacitors in positions C1-C2 on the bottom left of the board. The capacitors are not polarized so they can go either way.
# Install the Install the 16 pin socket in the center of the board. Note that the notch faces the top of the board matching the silkscreen pattern on the PCB.
# Install the light emitting diodes:
## Install the Green LED in the position marked Signal near the top of the board next to the RJ45 jack. Note that the LED is polarized and long lead should go towards the bottom of the board.
## Insert the Red LED in the position marked Power near the bottom left of the board. Note that the LED is polarized and the long lead should face towards the top of the board.
# Install the 5v linear regulator on the bottom left side of the board. Note that there are two sets of three holes. If you are using the small TO-92 package regulator listed in the BOM then the 7805 will use the holes closest to the caps. Note the regulator is polarized and the flat side should face left to match the orientation on the silkscreen.
# Install the two fuse clips near the top center of the circuit board. It may be easier to put the fuse in then install them on the PCB to ensure they are installed in the correct direction and line up. Please note that fuse clips '''may''' be polarized. Examine them carefully, as they often have extra bends that should be placed on the outside end, to stop the fuse from slipping out. Be careful, the fuse holders require a fair amount of solder and heat to attach them. The FUSE should not be present when installing the clips, as the extra heat may melt the end of the fuse.
# Connect the five 2 position screw terminal strips together by sliding the notches on the sides together. Next solder them to the circuit board.
# Install the 4 MOSFETs in the center of the board. It may be easier to attach them to the heat sink first using heatsink compound and screws and nuts, then soldering them to the PCB so they line up correctly. The MOSFETs are polarized and they should be installed with the tab facing the screw terminals.
# Install the RJ45 jack to the top left of the board. Gently align the eight wires with the matching holes and snap the connector to the board. Solder the connector to the circuit board being careful to not short out the connectors.
# Install the fuse in the clips if it is not already there.
# Gently install the Optoisolator in the socket making sure that the notch faces the top of the board , matching the silkscreen drawing.
# Inspect the board to look for any missing solder joints, solder bridges or cold solder joints.

Congratulations! That completes the construction of the DCSSR Version 2.4 ! 

==Final Testing==
TBD 
Connect power to the DC IN terminals and the POWER LED should light. 
Connect the DCSSR Version 2.4 to the DC controller by connecting the RJ45 jacks between the two units. The SIGNAL LED should light. 
NOTE: THE SIGNAL LIGHT WILL NOT LIGHT IF THE DCSSR VERSION 2.4 IS PLUGGED INTO A REN48LSD 

==Mounting in Housing==
The DCSSR Version 2.4 attach directly to the TA-200 Demarcation enclosure using #4 sheet metal screws.

Please note that the small hole in the lower corner of the board (nearest to the terminal block headers), is intended for use as a strain relief point. Place a small ''zip tie'' through this hole and around all incoming/outgoing cables, and tighten until ''snug''. This ensure that any accidental pulling on the cables won't jar the connectors loose from the terminal block headers.

=Power Requirements=
The DCSSR4 Version 2.4 can switch DC loads from 7-24VDC. The design provides local power for the optoisolator and the MOSFETs by using a local voltage regulator on the DC IN power. The voltage regulator does not work on the DC loads, so that any voltage applied to the DC IN terminals is fully available at the Output Terminals.

While the MOSFETs are capable of switching up to 10A each, the traces on the board cannot handle that much power. Each channel should be limited to 4 A and the total for all 4 channels should be limited to 10A. 

= Controlling the DCSSR Version 2.4 =
The DCSSR Version 2.4 requires a DC controller to be connected to its input for automated lighting. It can be driven by a variety of DC controllers. The [[Renard_64XC|Ren64XC]] and the [[Ren48LSDv3c|Ren48LSD]] are both configured to drive the DCSSR and have matching RJ45 jacks. 
If you are using the [[Ren48LSDv3c|Ren48LSD]] to drive the DCSSR Version 2.4, YOU MUST HAVE THE [[Ren48LSDv3c|Ren48LSD]] CONFIGURED TO SEND 5V TO THE DCSSR. IF THE [[Ren48LSDv3c|Ren48LSD]] IS SENDING ANY OTHER VOLTAGE, YOU MUST CHANGE RESISTORS 9-13 TO DIFFERENT VALUES. 

If you are driving an inductive DC load such as a solenoid,relay or a motor, you may want to add a [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flyback_diode Flyback Diode] such as a 1N4004 to provide extra protection to the MOSFET in the circuit.

The V+ is common for all four channels and the individual channels are controlled by switching the V- to ground. 

RJ45 controller inputs on the RJ45 jack should be as follows:

Pin 1 - +5v supply
Pin 2 - Channel 1 output
Pin 3 - +5v supply
Pin 4 - Channel 2 output
Pin 5 - reserved
Pin 6 - Channel 3 output
Pin 7 - LED (''signal'') ground
Pin 8 - Channel 4 output

=Schematic=
[[File:DCSSR2_4_schematic.pdf]]

=PCB=

[[File:DCSSR24.jpg|300px]] 

=Design Options=
If you want to drive 5.0V DC loads, you can omit the Voltage regulator and solder in a jumper between the two outer pins where the voltage regulator would go. You must use a well regulated DC voltage supply attached to the DC In power terminals. 

=Other Information=
TBD

==DCSSR Version 2.4 Discussion Threads==
TBD

==FAQ==
TBD 

[[Category:SSR]]
[[Category:DIYC Controllers]]
[[Category:DIYC Index]]

File:DCSSR2 4 schematic.pdf

2012-03-16T01:50:48Z

LabRat:

DCSSR Version 2.4

2012-03-15T14:08:49Z

LabRat: /* Revision History */

=DCSSR Version 2.4 - 4 Channel DC SSR - layout by Labrat=

[[File:DCSSR_2.4.png|300px]] 

'''
THIS WIKI IS A WORK IN PROGRESS AND IS CURRENTLY UNDER CONSTRUCTION. PLEASE DO NOT FOLLOW THE INSTRUCTIONS UNTIL IT IS FINISHED!!!!! 
Draft Written 03/15/12.......... 

Please see the standard [[Disclaimers|Disclaimers]] 

==What is the DCSSR Version 2.4?==
The DCSSR Version 2.4 is a 4 channel DC SSR (Solid State Relay) used to switch medium/high current DC loads such as high power LEDS, Dumb RGB Strips, DC Floodlights, solenoids, etc. The DCSSR Version 2.4 is connected to a computer thru a controller and is directly connected to your dc load and dc power supply. The DCSSR is connected to a controller such as the [[Renard_64XC|Ren64XC]] or the [[Ren48LSDv3c|Ren48LSD]] to provide the signals necessary to turn the DCSSR on and off.
It is capable of controlling DC loads from 5 - 24V. Each channel is rated for 4A and the total load for all four channels combined is 10A. The original concept design was created by DIYC user [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/member.php?11-wjohn| John Wilson (wjohn)]. This version of the layout was designed by [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/member.php?3440-LabRat| Andrew Williams (LabRat)] of Ottawa, Canada, in the spring of 2012, with the intent to make a board that would fit inside the TA-200 enclosure.

==How does the DCSSR work?==
The DCSSR Version 2.4 was designed to be used primarily to drive medium/high current DC loads that require a higher current then can be provided by other DC units such as the stand alone REN48LSD. The design allow 4 channels to be switched on/off or dimmed by switching the N Channel Mosfets on and off which provides a ground to the devices connected to the respective channels. It provides a common V+ across all of the channels.

The DCSSR Version 2.4 uses an Optoisolator to isolate the controller from the DC loads being switched. The input signals come from the DC controller using ordinary Cat5 cable plugged in to the controller and the DCSSR Version 2.4. The power for the DC loads is connected to the DC In terminals near the top right of the board and the 4 channel of DC loads are connected to the terminals along the right side of the board. 

 

==Revision History==
The Version 2.4 is currently the most recent version of the DCSSR designed by Labrat in production.

Previous version (1.6) is detailed in the "Files Section" of the DIYC website.
[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/dynamics/showentry.php?e=36&catid=8| TA200 DCSSR Version 1.6]

=DCSSR Version 2.4 Parts=
In addition to the PCB, you will need the following components:
===Mouser===
<table border="1"><tr><td>'''Mouser BOM'''</td></tr>
<tr><td>Mouser PN</td><td>Description</td><td>Qty</td></tr>
<tr><td>534-3517</td><td>Fuseholders, Clips, & Hardware PC FUSE CLIP 5 MM</td><td>2</td></tr>
<tr><td>660-CF1/4C103J</td><td>Carbon Film Resistors - Through Hole 10Kohms 5%</td><td>4</td></tr>
<tr><td>80-C322C104Z5U</td><td>Multilayer Ceramic Capacitors (MLCC) - Leaded 50volts 0.1uF Z5U</td><td>2</td></tr>
<tr><td>512-LM78L05ACZX</td><td>Linear Regulators - Standard TO-92 .1A Pos Volt</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>660-CFS1/4CT52R471J</td><td>Carbon Film Resistors - Through Hole 470 OHM 5% 1/4W</td><td>4</td></tr>
<tr><td>660-CFS1/4CT52R681J</td><td>Carbon Film Resistors - Through Hole 680 OHM 5% 1/4W</td><td>4</td></tr>
<tr><td>782-K847PH</td><td>Transistor Output Optocouplers Phototransistor Out Quad CTR 50-600%</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>538-39890-0302 </td><td>Fixed Terminal Blocks 5.0MM ECONOMY 2P 14-24AWG</td><td>5</td></tr>
<tr><td>571-1-390261-4</td><td> IC & Component Sockets 16P ECONOMY TIN</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td> 512-FQPF13N06L</td><td>MOSFET 60V N-Channel QFET Logic Level</td><td>4</td></tr>
<tr><td>571-5556416-1</td><td>Ethernet & Telecom Connectors 8 PCB TOP ENTRY</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>604-WP7113ID</td><td>Standard LED - Through Hole HI EFF RED DIFFUSED</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>604-WP7113GD</td><td>Standard LED - Through Hole GREEN DIFFUSED</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td> 71-CCF071K00GKE36</td><td> Metal Film Resistors - Through Hole 1/4watt 1Kohms 2% Rated to 1/2watt</td><td>2</td></tr>
<tr><td>TBD</td><td>10A Fuse</td><td>1</td></tr>
</table> 
===Heatsink===
The design calls for a heatsink to be attached to the MOSFETS to provide maximum power handling capability. It may be purchased at [http://www.diyledexpress.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=74| www.diyledexpress.com] 

===Housing===
The DCSSR Version 2.4 was designed to fit in the TA-200 Demarcation Enclosure available from numerous vendors including [http://wlcventures.com/zencart/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=1| www.wlcventures.com]. 

=Building the DCSSR Version 2.4=
==Assembly==

The DCSSR Version 2.4 is a simple device to assemble and test. It is easiest if you build the units by inserting the various components from smallest to tallest .

# Begin by inspecting the PCBs to look for any defects such as cracks or breaks. The holes on the board should be open on both sides. Then inspect and sort out the various parts for the board.
# Install the resistors:
## four 470 ohm resistors in positions R1-R4 in the center of the board. The resistors are not polarized so they can go either way.
## four 10K ohm resistors in positions R5-R8 in the center of the board. The resistors are not polarized so they can go either way.
## four 680 ohm resistors in R9-R12 on the left side of the board. The resistors are not polarized so they can go either way.
## two 1K ohm resistors in R13-R14 on the top left and bottom left of the board. The resistors are not polarized so they can go either way.
# Install the two 0.1 uF capacitors in positions C1-C2 on the bottom left of the board. The capacitors are not polarized so they can go either way.
# Install the Install the 16 pin socket in the center of the board. Note that the notch faces the top of the board matching the silkscreen pattern on the PCB.
# Install the light emitting diodes:
## Install the Green LED in the position marked Signal near the top of the board next to the RJ45 jack. Note that the LED is polarized and long lead should go towards the bottom of the board.
## Insert the Red LED in the position marked Power near the bottom left of the board. Note that the LED is polarized and the long lead should face towards the top of the board.
# Install the 5v linear regulator on the bottom left side of the board. Note that there are two sets of three holes. If you are using the small TO-92 package regulator listed in the BOM then the 7805 will use the holes closest to the caps. Note the regulator is polarized and the flat side should face left to match the orientation on the silkscreen.
# Install the two fuse clips near the top center of the circuit board. It may be easier to put the fuse in then install them on the PCB to ensure they are installed in the correct direction and line up. Please note that fuse clips '''may''' be polarized. Examine them carefully, as they often have extra bends that should be placed on the outside end, to stop the fuse from slipping out. Be careful, the fuse holders require a fair amount of solder and heat to attach them. The FUSE should not be present when installing the clips, as the extra heat may melt the end of the fuse.
# Connect the five 2 position screw terminal strips together by sliding the notches on the sides together. Next solder them to the circuit board.
# Install the 4 MOSFETs in the center of the board. It may be easier to attach them to the heat sink first using heatsink compound and screws and nuts, then soldering them to the PCB so they line up correctly. The MOSFETs are polarized and they should be installed with the tab facing the screw terminals.
# Install the RJ45 jack to the top left of the board. Gently align the eight wires with the matching holes and snap the connector to the board. Solder the connector to the circuit board being careful to not short out the connectors.
# Install the fuse in the clips if it is not already there.
# Gently install the Optoisolator in the socket making sure that the notch faces the top of the board , matching the silkscreen drawing.
# Inspect the board to look for any missing solder joints, solder bridges or cold solder joints.

Congratulations! That completes the construction of the DCSSR Version 2.4 ! 

==Final Testing==
TBD 

==Mounting in Housing==
The DCSSR Version 2.4 attach directly to the TA-200 Demarcation enclosure using #4 sheet metal screws.

Please note that the small hole in the lower corner of the board (nearest to the terminal block headers), is intended for use as a strain relief point. Place a small ''zip tie'' through this hole and around all incoming/outgoing cables, and tighten until ''snug''. This ensure that any accidental pulling on the cables won't jar the connectors loose from the terminal block headers.

=Power Requirements=
The DCSSR4 Version 2.4 can switch DC loads from 5-24VDC. The design provides local power for the optoisolator and the MOSFETs by using a local voltage regulator on the DC IN power. The voltage regulator does not work on the DC loads, so that any voltage applied to the DC IN terminals is fully available at the Output Terminals.

While the MOSFETs are capable of switching up to 10A each, the traces on the board cannot handle that much power. Each channel should be limited to 4 A and the total for all 4 channels should be limited to 10A. 

= Controlling the DCSSR Version 2.4 =
The DCSSR Version 2.4 requires a DC controller to be connected to its input for automated lighting. It can be driven by a variety of DC controllers. The [[Renard_64XC|Ren64XC]] and the [[Ren48LSDv3c|Ren48LSD]] are both configured to drive the DCSSR and have matching RJ45 jacks. 

The V+ is common for all four channels and the individual channels are controlled by switching the V- to ground. 

RJ45 controller inputs on the RJ45 jack should be as follows:

Pin 1 - +5v supply
Pin 2 - Channel 1 output
Pin 3 - +5v supply
Pin 4 - Channel 2 output
Pin 5 - reserved
Pin 6 - Channel 3 output
Pin 7 - LED (''signal'') ground
Pin 8 - Channel 4 output

=Schematic=
TBD

=PCB=
TBD
=Design Options=
TBD

=Other Information=
TBD

==DCSSR Version 2.4 Discussion Threads==
TBD

==FAQ==
TBD 

[[Category:SSR]]
[[Category:DIYC Controllers]]
[[Category:DIYC Index]]
[[Category:Display Items]]

DCSSR Version 2.4

2012-03-15T14:04:37Z

LabRat: /* Controlling the DCSSR Version 2.4 */

=DCSSR Version 2.4 - 4 Channel DC SSR - layout by Labrat=

[[File:DCSSR_2.4.png|300px]] 

'''
THIS WIKI IS A WORK IN PROGRESS AND IS CURRENTLY UNDER CONSTRUCTION. PLEASE DO NOT FOLLOW THE INSTRUCTIONS UNTIL IT IS FINISHED!!!!! 
Draft Written 03/15/12.......... 

Please see the standard [[Disclaimers|Disclaimers]] 

==What is the DCSSR Version 2.4?==
The DCSSR Version 2.4 is a 4 channel DC SSR (Solid State Relay) used to switch medium/high current DC loads such as high power LEDS, Dumb RGB Strips, DC Floodlights, solenoids, etc. The DCSSR Version 2.4 is connected to a computer thru a controller and is directly connected to your dc load and dc power supply. The DCSSR is connected to a controller such as the [[Renard_64XC|Ren64XC]] or the [[Ren48LSDv3c|Ren48LSD]] to provide the signals necessary to turn the DCSSR on and off.
It is capable of controlling DC loads from 5 - 24V. Each channel is rated for 4A and the total load for all four channels combined is 10A. The original concept design was created by DIYC user [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/member.php?11-wjohn| John Wilson (wjohn)]. This version of the layout was designed by [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/member.php?3440-LabRat| Andrew Williams (LabRat)] of Ottawa, Canada, in the spring of 2012, with the intent to make a board that would fit inside the TA-200 enclosure.

==How does the DCSSR work?==
The DCSSR Version 2.4 was designed to be used primarily to drive medium/high current DC loads that require a higher current then can be provided by other DC units such as the stand alone REN48LSD. The design allow 4 channels to be switched on/off or dimmed by switching the N Channel Mosfets on and off which provides a ground to the devices connected to the respective channels. It provides a common V+ across all of the channels.

The DCSSR Version 2.4 uses an Optoisolator to isolate the controller from the DC loads being switched. The input signals come from the DC controller using ordinary Cat5 cable plugged in to the controller and the DCSSR Version 2.4. The power for the DC loads is connected to the DC In terminals near the top right of the board and the 4 channel of DC loads are connected to the terminals along the right side of the board. 

 

==Revision History==
The Version 2.4 is currently the most recent version of the DCSSR designed by Labrat in production.

=DCSSR Version 2.4 Parts=
In addition to the PCB, you will need the following components:
===Mouser===
<table border="1"><tr><td>'''Mouser BOM'''</td></tr>
<tr><td>Mouser PN</td><td>Description</td><td>Qty</td></tr>
<tr><td>534-3517</td><td>Fuseholders, Clips, & Hardware PC FUSE CLIP 5 MM</td><td>2</td></tr>
<tr><td>660-CF1/4C103J</td><td>Carbon Film Resistors - Through Hole 10Kohms 5%</td><td>4</td></tr>
<tr><td>80-C322C104Z5U</td><td>Multilayer Ceramic Capacitors (MLCC) - Leaded 50volts 0.1uF Z5U</td><td>2</td></tr>
<tr><td>512-LM78L05ACZX</td><td>Linear Regulators - Standard TO-92 .1A Pos Volt</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>660-CFS1/4CT52R471J</td><td>Carbon Film Resistors - Through Hole 470 OHM 5% 1/4W</td><td>4</td></tr>
<tr><td>660-CFS1/4CT52R681J</td><td>Carbon Film Resistors - Through Hole 680 OHM 5% 1/4W</td><td>4</td></tr>
<tr><td>782-K847PH</td><td>Transistor Output Optocouplers Phototransistor Out Quad CTR 50-600%</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>538-39890-0302 </td><td>Fixed Terminal Blocks 5.0MM ECONOMY 2P 14-24AWG</td><td>5</td></tr>
<tr><td>571-1-390261-4</td><td> IC & Component Sockets 16P ECONOMY TIN</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td> 512-FQPF13N06L</td><td>MOSFET 60V N-Channel QFET Logic Level</td><td>4</td></tr>
<tr><td>571-5556416-1</td><td>Ethernet & Telecom Connectors 8 PCB TOP ENTRY</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>604-WP7113ID</td><td>Standard LED - Through Hole HI EFF RED DIFFUSED</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>604-WP7113GD</td><td>Standard LED - Through Hole GREEN DIFFUSED</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td> 71-CCF071K00GKE36</td><td> Metal Film Resistors - Through Hole 1/4watt 1Kohms 2% Rated to 1/2watt</td><td>2</td></tr>
<tr><td>TBD</td><td>10A Fuse</td><td>1</td></tr>
</table> 
===Heatsink===
The design calls for a heatsink to be attached to the MOSFETS to provide maximum power handling capability. It may be purchased at [http://www.diyledexpress.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=74| www.diyledexpress.com] 

===Housing===
The DCSSR Version 2.4 was designed to fit in the TA-200 Demarcation Enclosure available from numerous vendors including [http://wlcventures.com/zencart/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=1| www.wlcventures.com]. 

=Building the DCSSR Version 2.4=
==Assembly==

The DCSSR Version 2.4 is a simple device to assemble and test. It is easiest if you build the units by inserting the various components from smallest to tallest .

# Begin by inspecting the PCBs to look for any defects such as cracks or breaks. The holes on the board should be open on both sides. Then inspect and sort out the various parts for the board.
# Install the resistors:
## four 470 ohm resistors in positions R1-R4 in the center of the board. The resistors are not polarized so they can go either way.
## four 10K ohm resistors in positions R5-R8 in the center of the board. The resistors are not polarized so they can go either way.
## four 680 ohm resistors in R9-R12 on the left side of the board. The resistors are not polarized so they can go either way.
## two 1K ohm resistors in R13-R14 on the top left and bottom left of the board. The resistors are not polarized so they can go either way.
# Install the two 0.1 uF capacitors in positions C1-C2 on the bottom left of the board. The capacitors are not polarized so they can go either way.
# Install the Install the 16 pin socket in the center of the board. Note that the notch faces the top of the board matching the silkscreen pattern on the PCB.
# Install the light emitting diodes:
## Install the Green LED in the position marked Signal near the top of the board next to the RJ45 jack. Note that the LED is polarized and long lead should go towards the bottom of the board.
## Insert the Red LED in the position marked Power near the bottom left of the board. Note that the LED is polarized and the long lead should face towards the top of the board.
# Install the 5v linear regulator on the bottom left side of the board. Note that there are two sets of three holes. If you are using the small TO-92 package regulator listed in the BOM then the 7805 will use the holes closest to the caps. Note the regulator is polarized and the flat side should face left to match the orientation on the silkscreen.
# Install the two fuse clips near the top center of the circuit board. It may be easier to put the fuse in then install them on the PCB to ensure they are installed in the correct direction and line up. Please note that fuse clips '''may''' be polarized. Examine them carefully, as they often have extra bends that should be placed on the outside end, to stop the fuse from slipping out. Be careful, the fuse holders require a fair amount of solder and heat to attach them. The FUSE should not be present when installing the clips, as the extra heat may melt the end of the fuse.
# Connect the five 2 position screw terminal strips together by sliding the notches on the sides together. Next solder them to the circuit board.
# Install the 4 MOSFETs in the center of the board. It may be easier to attach them to the heat sink first using heatsink compound and screws and nuts, then soldering them to the PCB so they line up correctly. The MOSFETs are polarized and they should be installed with the tab facing the screw terminals.
# Install the RJ45 jack to the top left of the board. Gently align the eight wires with the matching holes and snap the connector to the board. Solder the connector to the circuit board being careful to not short out the connectors.
# Install the fuse in the clips if it is not already there.
# Gently install the Optoisolator in the socket making sure that the notch faces the top of the board , matching the silkscreen drawing.
# Inspect the board to look for any missing solder joints, solder bridges or cold solder joints.

Congratulations! That completes the construction of the DCSSR Version 2.4 ! 

==Final Testing==
TBD 

==Mounting in Housing==
The DCSSR Version 2.4 attach directly to the TA-200 Demarcation enclosure using #4 sheet metal screws.

Please note that the small hole in the lower corner of the board (nearest to the terminal block headers), is intended for use as a strain relief point. Place a small ''zip tie'' through this hole and around all incoming/outgoing cables, and tighten until ''snug''. This ensure that any accidental pulling on the cables won't jar the connectors loose from the terminal block headers.

=Power Requirements=
The DCSSR4 Version 2.4 can switch DC loads from 5-24VDC. The design provides local power for the optoisolator and the MOSFETs by using a local voltage regulator on the DC IN power. The voltage regulator does not work on the DC loads, so that any voltage applied to the DC IN terminals is fully available at the Output Terminals.

While the MOSFETs are capable of switching up to 10A each, the traces on the board cannot handle that much power. Each channel should be limited to 4 A and the total for all 4 channels should be limited to 10A. 

= Controlling the DCSSR Version 2.4 =
The DCSSR Version 2.4 requires a DC controller to be connected to its input for automated lighting. It can be driven by a variety of DC controllers. The [[Renard_64XC|Ren64XC]] and the [[Ren48LSDv3c|Ren48LSD]] are both configured to drive the DCSSR and have matching RJ45 jacks. 

The V+ is common for all four channels and the individual channels are controlled by switching the V- to ground. 

RJ45 controller inputs on the RJ45 jack should be as follows:

Pin 1 - +5v supply
Pin 2 - Channel 1 output
Pin 3 - +5v supply
Pin 4 - Channel 2 output
Pin 5 - reserved
Pin 6 - Channel 3 output
Pin 7 - LED (''signal'') ground
Pin 8 - Channel 4 output

=Schematic=
TBD

=PCB=
TBD
=Design Options=
TBD

=Other Information=
TBD

==DCSSR Version 2.4 Discussion Threads==
TBD

==FAQ==
TBD 

[[Category:SSR]]
[[Category:DIYC Controllers]]
[[Category:DIYC Index]]
[[Category:Display Items]]

DCSSR Version 2.4

2012-03-15T13:11:12Z

LabRat: /* Mounting in Housing */

=DCSSR Version 2.4 - 4 Channel DC SSR - layout by Labrat=

[[File:DCSSR_2.4.png|300px]] 

'''
THIS WIKI IS A WORK IN PROGRESS AND IS CURRENTLY UNDER CONSTRUCTION. PLEASE DO NOT FOLLOW THE INSTRUCTIONS UNTIL IT IS FINISHED!!!!! 
Draft Written 03/15/12.......... 

Please see the standard [[Disclaimers|Disclaimers]] 

==What is the DCSSR Version 2.4?==
The DCSSR Version 2.4 is a 4 channel DC SSR (Solid State Relay) used to switch medium/high current DC loads such as high power LEDS, Dumb RGB Strips, DC Floodlights, solenoids, etc. The DCSSR Version 2.4 is connected to a computer thru a controller and is directly connected to your dc load and dc power supply. The DCSSR is connected to a controller such as the [[Renard_64XC|Ren64XC]] or the [[Ren48LSDv3c|Ren48LSD]] to provide the signals necessary to turn the DCSSR on and off.
It is capable of controlling DC loads from 5 - 24V. Each channel is rated for 4A and the total load for all four channels combined is 10A. The original concept design was created by DIYC user [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/member.php?11-wjohn| John Wilson (wjohn)]. This version of the layout was designed by [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/member.php?3440-LabRat| Andrew Williams (LabRat)] of Ottawa, Canada, in the spring of 2012, with the intent to make a board that would fit inside the TA-200 enclosure.

==How does the DCSSR work?==
The DCSSR Version 2.4 was designed to be used primarily to drive medium/high current DC loads that require a higher current then can be provided by other DC units such as the stand alone REN48LSD. The design allow 4 channels to be switched on/off or dimmed by switching the N Channel Mosfets on and off which provides a ground to the devices connected to the respective channels. It provides a common V+ across all of the channels.

The DCSSR Version 2.4 uses an Optoisolator to isolate the controller from the DC loads being switched. The input signals come from the DC controller using ordinary Cat5 cable plugged in to the controller and the DCSSR Version 2.4. The power for the DC loads is connected to the DC In terminals near the top right of the board and the 4 channel of DC loads are connected to the terminals along the right side of the board. 

 

==Revision History==
The Version 2.4 is currently the most recent version of the DCSSR designed by Labrat in production.

=DCSSR Version 2.4 Parts=
In addition to the PCB, you will need the following components:
===Mouser===
<table border="1"><tr><td>'''Mouser BOM'''</td></tr>
<tr><td>Mouser PN</td><td>Description</td><td>Qty</td></tr>
<tr><td>534-3517</td><td>Fuseholders, Clips, & Hardware PC FUSE CLIP 5 MM</td><td>2</td></tr>
<tr><td>660-CF1/4C103J</td><td>Carbon Film Resistors - Through Hole 10Kohms 5%</td><td>4</td></tr>
<tr><td>80-C322C104Z5U</td><td>Multilayer Ceramic Capacitors (MLCC) - Leaded 50volts 0.1uF Z5U</td><td>2</td></tr>
<tr><td>512-LM78L05ACZX</td><td>Linear Regulators - Standard TO-92 .1A Pos Volt</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>660-CFS1/4CT52R471J</td><td>Carbon Film Resistors - Through Hole 470 OHM 5% 1/4W</td><td>4</td></tr>
<tr><td>660-CFS1/4CT52R681J</td><td>Carbon Film Resistors - Through Hole 680 OHM 5% 1/4W</td><td>4</td></tr>
<tr><td>782-K847PH</td><td>Transistor Output Optocouplers Phototransistor Out Quad CTR 50-600%</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>538-39890-0302 </td><td>Fixed Terminal Blocks 5.0MM ECONOMY 2P 14-24AWG</td><td>5</td></tr>
<tr><td>571-1-390261-4</td><td> IC & Component Sockets 16P ECONOMY TIN</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td> 512-FQPF13N06L</td><td>MOSFET 60V N-Channel QFET Logic Level</td><td>4</td></tr>
<tr><td>571-5556416-1</td><td>Ethernet & Telecom Connectors 8 PCB TOP ENTRY</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>604-WP7113ID</td><td>Standard LED - Through Hole HI EFF RED DIFFUSED</td><td>2</td></tr>
<tr><td> 71-CCF071K00GKE36</td><td> Metal Film Resistors - Through Hole 1/4watt 1Kohms 2% Rated to 1/2watt</td><td>2</td></tr>
<tr><td>TBD</td><td>Fuse</td><td>1</td></tr>
</table> 
===Heatsink===
The design calls for a heatsink to be attached to the MOSFETS to provide maximum power handling capability. It may be purchased at [http://www.diyledexpress.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=74| www.diyledexpress.com] 

===Housing===
The DCSSR Version 2.4 was designed to fit in the TA-200 Demarcation Enclosure available from numerous vendors including [http://wlcventures.com/zencart/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=1| www.wlcventures.com]. 

=Building the DCSSR Version 2.4=
==Assembly==

The DCSSR Version 2.4 is a simple device to assemble and test. It is easiest if you build the units by inserting the various components from smallest to tallest .

# Begin by inspecting the PCBs to look for any defects such as cracks or breaks. The holes on the board should be open on both sides. Then inspect and sort out the various parts for the board.
# Install the resistors:
## four 470 ohm resistors in positions R1-R4 in the center of the board. The resistors are not polarized so they can go either way.
## four 10K ohm resistors in positions R5-R8 in the center of the board. The resistors are not polarized so they can go either way.
## four 680 ohm resistors in R9-R12 on the left side of the board. The resistors are not polarized so they can go either way.
## two 1K ohm resistors in R13-R14 on the top left and bottom left of the board. The resistors are not polarized so they can go either way.
# Install the two 0.1 uF capacitors in positions C1-C2 on the bottom left of the board. The capacitors are not polarized so they can go either way.
# Install the Install the 16 pin socket in the center of the board. Note that the notch faces the top of the board matching the silkscreen pattern on the PCB.
# Install the Green LED in the position marked Signal near the top of the board next to the RJ45 jack. Note that the LED is polarized and long lead should go towards the bottom of the board.
# Install the light emitting diodes:
## Insert the Red LED in the position marked Power near the bottom left of the board. Note that the LED is polarized and the long lead should face towards the top of the board.
## Install the 5v linear regulator on the bottom left side of the board. Note that there are two sets of three holes. If you are using the small TO-92 package regulator listed in the BOM then the 7805 will use the holes closest to the caps. Note the regulator is polarized and the flat side should face left to match the orientation on the silkscreen.
# Install the two fuse clips near the top center of the circuit board. It may be easier to put the fuse in then install them on the PCB to ensure they are installed in the correct direction and line up. Please note that fuse clips '''may''' be polarized. Examine them carefully, as they often have extra bends that should be placed on the outside end, to stop the fuse from slipping out. Be careful, the fuse holders require a fair amount of solder and heat to attach them. The FUSE should not be present when installing the clips, as the extra heat may melt the end of the fuse.
# Connect the five 2 position screw terminal strips together by sliding the notches on the sides together. Next solder them to the circuit board.
# Install the 4 MOSFETs in the center of the board. It may be easier to attach them to the heat sink first using heatsink compound and screws and nuts, then soldering them to the PCB so they line up correctly. The MOSFETs are polarized and they should be installed with the tab facing the screw terminals.
# Install the RJ45 jack to the top left of the board. Gently align the eight wires with the matching holes and snap the connector to the board. Solder the connector to the circuit board being careful to not short out the connectors.
# Install the fuse in the clips if it is not already there.
# Gently install the Optoisolator in the socket making sure that the notch faces the top of the board , matching the silkscreen drawing.
# Inspect the board to look for any missing solder joints, solder bridges or cold solder joints.

Congratulations! That completes the construction of the DCSSR Version 2.4 ! 

==Final Testing==
TBD 

==Mounting in Housing==
The DCSSR Version 2.4 attach directly to the TA-200 Demarcation enclosure using #4 sheet metal screws.

Please note that the small hole in the lower corner of the board (nearest to the terminal block headers), is intended for use as a strain relief point. Place a small ''zip tie'' through this hole and around all incoming/outgoing cables, and tighten until ''snug''. This ensure that any accidental pulling on the cables won't jar the connectors loose from the terminal block headers.

=Power Requirements=
The DCSSR4 Version 2.4 can switch DC loads from 5-24VDC. The design provides local power for the optoisolator and the MOSFETs by using a local voltage regulator on the DC IN power. The voltage regulator does not work on the DC loads, so that any voltage applied to the DC IN terminals is fully available at the Output Terminals.

While the MOSFETs are capable of switching up to 10A each, the traces on the board cannot handle that much power. Each channel should be limited to 4 A and the total for all 4 channels should be limited to 10A. 
br/>

= Controlling the DCSSR Version 2.4 =
The DCSSR Version 2.4 requires a DC controller to be connected to its input for automated lighting. It can be driven by a variety of DC controllers. The [[Renard_64XC|Ren64XC]] and the [[Ren48LSDv3c|Ren48LSD]] are both configured to drive the DCSSR and have matching RJ45 jacks. 

The V+ is common for all four channels and the individual channels are controlled by switching the V- to ground. 

RJ45 controller inputs on the RJ45 jack should be as follows: 
Pin 1 - +5v supply 
Pin 2 - Channel 1 output 
Pin 3 - reserved 
Pin 4 - Channel 2 output 
Pin 5 - reserved 
Pin 6 - Channel 3 output 
Pin 7 - Ground 
Pin 8 - Channel 4 output 

=Schematic=
TBD

=PCB=
TBD
=Design Options=
TBD

=Other Information=
TBD

==DCSSR Version 2.4 Discussion Threads==
TBD

==FAQ==
TBD 

[[Category:SSR]]
[[Category:DIYC Controllers]]
[[Category:DIYC Index]]
[[Category:Display Items]]

DCSSR Version 2.4

2012-03-15T13:08:12Z

LabRat: /* Assembly */

=DCSSR Version 2.4 - 4 Channel DC SSR - layout by Labrat=

[[File:DCSSR_2.4.png|300px]] 

'''
THIS WIKI IS A WORK IN PROGRESS AND IS CURRENTLY UNDER CONSTRUCTION. PLEASE DO NOT FOLLOW THE INSTRUCTIONS UNTIL IT IS FINISHED!!!!! 
Draft Written 03/15/12.......... 

Please see the standard [[Disclaimers|Disclaimers]] 

==What is the DCSSR Version 2.4?==
The DCSSR Version 2.4 is a 4 channel DC SSR (Solid State Relay) used to switch medium/high current DC loads such as high power LEDS, Dumb RGB Strips, DC Floodlights, solenoids, etc. The DCSSR Version 2.4 is connected to a computer thru a controller and is directly connected to your dc load and dc power supply. The DCSSR is connected to a controller such as the [[Renard_64XC|Ren64XC]] or the [[Ren48LSDv3c|Ren48LSD]] to provide the signals necessary to turn the DCSSR on and off.
It is capable of controlling DC loads from 5 - 24V. Each channel is rated for 4A and the total load for all four channels combined is 10A. The original concept design was created by DIYC user [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/member.php?11-wjohn| John Wilson (wjohn)]. This version of the layout was designed by [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/member.php?3440-LabRat| Andrew Williams (LabRat)] of Ottawa, Canada, in the spring of 2012, with the intent to make a board that would fit inside the TA-200 enclosure.

==How does the DCSSR work?==
The DCSSR Version 2.4 was designed to be used primarily to drive medium/high current DC loads that require a higher current then can be provided by other DC units such as the stand alone REN48LSD. The design allow 4 channels to be switched on/off or dimmed by switching the N Channel Mosfets on and off which provides a ground to the devices connected to the respective channels. It provides a common V+ across all of the channels.

The DCSSR Version 2.4 uses an Optoisolator to isolate the controller from the DC loads being switched. The input signals come from the DC controller using ordinary Cat5 cable plugged in to the controller and the DCSSR Version 2.4. The power for the DC loads is connected to the DC In terminals near the top right of the board and the 4 channel of DC loads are connected to the terminals along the right side of the board. 

 

==Revision History==
The Version 2.4 is currently the most recent version of the DCSSR designed by Labrat in production.

=DCSSR Version 2.4 Parts=
In addition to the PCB, you will need the following components:
===Mouser===
<table border="1"><tr><td>'''Mouser BOM'''</td></tr>
<tr><td>Mouser PN</td><td>Description</td><td>Qty</td></tr>
<tr><td>534-3517</td><td>Fuseholders, Clips, & Hardware PC FUSE CLIP 5 MM</td><td>2</td></tr>
<tr><td>660-CF1/4C103J</td><td>Carbon Film Resistors - Through Hole 10Kohms 5%</td><td>4</td></tr>
<tr><td>80-C322C104Z5U</td><td>Multilayer Ceramic Capacitors (MLCC) - Leaded 50volts 0.1uF Z5U</td><td>2</td></tr>
<tr><td>512-LM78L05ACZX</td><td>Linear Regulators - Standard TO-92 .1A Pos Volt</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>660-CFS1/4CT52R471J</td><td>Carbon Film Resistors - Through Hole 470 OHM 5% 1/4W</td><td>4</td></tr>
<tr><td>660-CFS1/4CT52R681J</td><td>Carbon Film Resistors - Through Hole 680 OHM 5% 1/4W</td><td>4</td></tr>
<tr><td>782-K847PH</td><td>Transistor Output Optocouplers Phototransistor Out Quad CTR 50-600%</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>538-39890-0302 </td><td>Fixed Terminal Blocks 5.0MM ECONOMY 2P 14-24AWG</td><td>5</td></tr>
<tr><td>571-1-390261-4</td><td> IC & Component Sockets 16P ECONOMY TIN</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td> 512-FQPF13N06L</td><td>MOSFET 60V N-Channel QFET Logic Level</td><td>4</td></tr>
<tr><td>571-5556416-1</td><td>Ethernet & Telecom Connectors 8 PCB TOP ENTRY</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>604-WP7113ID</td><td>Standard LED - Through Hole HI EFF RED DIFFUSED</td><td>2</td></tr>
<tr><td> 71-CCF071K00GKE36</td><td> Metal Film Resistors - Through Hole 1/4watt 1Kohms 2% Rated to 1/2watt</td><td>2</td></tr>
<tr><td>TBD</td><td>Fuse</td><td>1</td></tr>
</table> 
===Heatsink===
The design calls for a heatsink to be attached to the MOSFETS to provide maximum power handling capability. It may be purchased at [http://www.diyledexpress.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=74| www.diyledexpress.com] 

===Housing===
The DCSSR Version 2.4 was designed to fit in the TA-200 Demarcation Enclosure available from numerous vendors including [http://wlcventures.com/zencart/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=1| www.wlcventures.com]. 

=Building the DCSSR Version 2.4=
==Assembly==

The DCSSR Version 2.4 is a simple device to assemble and test. It is easiest if you build the units by inserting the various components from smallest to tallest .

# Begin by inspecting the PCBs to look for any defects such as cracks or breaks. The holes on the board should be open on both sides. Then inspect and sort out the various parts for the board.
# Install the resistors:
## four 470 ohm resistors in positions R1-R4 in the center of the board. The resistors are not polarized so they can go either way.
## four 10K ohm resistors in positions R5-R8 in the center of the board. The resistors are not polarized so they can go either way.
## four 680 ohm resistors in R9-R12 on the left side of the board. The resistors are not polarized so they can go either way.
## two 1K ohm resistors in R13-R14 on the top left and bottom left of the board. The resistors are not polarized so they can go either way.
# Install the two 0.1 uF capacitors in positions C1-C2 on the bottom left of the board. The capacitors are not polarized so they can go either way.
# Install the Install the 16 pin socket in the center of the board. Note that the notch faces the top of the board matching the silkscreen pattern on the PCB.
# Install the Green LED in the position marked Signal near the top of the board next to the RJ45 jack. Note that the LED is polarized and long lead should go towards the bottom of the board.
# Install the light emitting diodes:
## Insert the Red LED in the position marked Power near the bottom left of the board. Note that the LED is polarized and the long lead should face towards the top of the board.
## Install the 5v linear regulator on the bottom left side of the board. Note that there are two sets of three holes. If you are using the small TO-92 package regulator listed in the BOM then the 7805 will use the holes closest to the caps. Note the regulator is polarized and the flat side should face left to match the orientation on the silkscreen.
# Install the two fuse clips near the top center of the circuit board. It may be easier to put the fuse in then install them on the PCB to ensure they are installed in the correct direction and line up. Please note that fuse clips '''may''' be polarized. Examine them carefully, as they often have extra bends that should be placed on the outside end, to stop the fuse from slipping out. Be careful, the fuse holders require a fair amount of solder and heat to attach them. The FUSE should not be present when installing the clips, as the extra heat may melt the end of the fuse.
# Connect the five 2 position screw terminal strips together by sliding the notches on the sides together. Next solder them to the circuit board.
# Install the 4 MOSFETs in the center of the board. It may be easier to attach them to the heat sink first using heatsink compound and screws and nuts, then soldering them to the PCB so they line up correctly. The MOSFETs are polarized and they should be installed with the tab facing the screw terminals.
# Install the RJ45 jack to the top left of the board. Gently align the eight wires with the matching holes and snap the connector to the board. Solder the connector to the circuit board being careful to not short out the connectors.
# Install the fuse in the clips if it is not already there.
# Gently install the Optoisolator in the socket making sure that the notch faces the top of the board , matching the silkscreen drawing.
# Inspect the board to look for any missing solder joints, solder bridges or cold solder joints.

Congratulations! That completes the construction of the DCSSR Version 2.4 ! 

==Final Testing==
TBD 

==Mounting in Housing==
The DCSSR Version 2.4 attach directly to the TA-200 Demarcation enclosure using #4 sheet metal screws. 

=Power Requirements=
The DCSSR4 Version 2.4 can switch DC loads from 5-24VDC. The design provides local power for the optoisolator and the MOSFETs by using a local voltage regulator on the DC IN power. The voltage regulator does not work on the DC loads, so that any voltage applied to the DC IN terminals is fully available at the Output Terminals.

While the MOSFETs are capable of switching up to 10A each, the traces on the board cannot handle that much power. Each channel should be limited to 4 A and the total for all 4 channels should be limited to 10A. 
br/>

= Controlling the DCSSR Version 2.4 =
The DCSSR Version 2.4 requires a DC controller to be connected to its input for automated lighting. It can be driven by a variety of DC controllers. The [[Renard_64XC|Ren64XC]] and the [[Ren48LSDv3c|Ren48LSD]] are both configured to drive the DCSSR and have matching RJ45 jacks. 

The V+ is common for all four channels and the individual channels are controlled by switching the V- to ground. 

RJ45 controller inputs on the RJ45 jack should be as follows: 
Pin 1 - +5v supply 
Pin 2 - Channel 1 output 
Pin 3 - reserved 
Pin 4 - Channel 2 output 
Pin 5 - reserved 
Pin 6 - Channel 3 output 
Pin 7 - Ground 
Pin 8 - Channel 4 output 

=Schematic=
TBD

=PCB=
TBD
=Design Options=
TBD

=Other Information=
TBD

==DCSSR Version 2.4 Discussion Threads==
TBD

==FAQ==
TBD 

[[Category:SSR]]
[[Category:DIYC Controllers]]
[[Category:DIYC Index]]
[[Category:Display Items]]

DCSSR Version 2.4

2012-03-15T12:58:02Z

LabRat:

=DCSSR Version 2.4 - 4 Channel DC SSR - layout by Labrat=

[[File:DCSSR_2.4.png|300px]] 

'''
THIS WIKI IS A WORK IN PROGRESS AND IS CURRENTLY UNDER CONSTRUCTION. PLEASE DO NOT FOLLOW THE INSTRUCTIONS UNTIL IT IS FINISHED!!!!! 
Draft Written 03/15/12.......... 

Please see the standard [[Disclaimers|Disclaimers]] 

==What is the DCSSR Version 2.4?==
The DCSSR Version 2.4 is a 4 channel DC SSR (Solid State Relay) used to switch medium/high current DC loads such as high power LEDS, Dumb RGB Strips, DC Floodlights, solenoids, etc. The DCSSR Version 2.4 is connected to a computer thru a controller and is directly connected to your dc load and dc power supply. The DCSSR is connected to a controller such as the [[Renard_64XC|Ren64XC]] or the [[Ren48LSDv3c|Ren48LSD]] to provide the signals necessary to turn the DCSSR on and off.
It is capable of controlling DC loads from 5 - 24V. Each channel is rated for 4A and the total load for all four channels combined is 10A. The original concept design was created by DIYC user [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/member.php?11-wjohn| John Wilson (wjohn)]. This version of the layout was designed by [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/member.php?3440-LabRat| Andrew Williams (LabRat)] of Ottawa, Canada, in the spring of 2012, with the intent to make a board that would fit inside the TA-200 enclosure.

==How does the DCSSR work?==
The DCSSR Version 2.4 was designed to be used primarily to drive medium/high current DC loads that require a higher current then can be provided by other DC units such as the stand alone REN48LSD. The design allow 4 channels to be switched on/off or dimmed by switching the N Channel Mosfets on and off which provides a ground to the devices connected to the respective channels. It provides a common V+ across all of the channels.

The DCSSR Version 2.4 uses an Optoisolator to isolate the controller from the DC loads being switched. The input signals come from the DC controller using ordinary Cat5 cable plugged in to the controller and the DCSSR Version 2.4. The power for the DC loads is connected to the DC In terminals near the top right of the board and the 4 channel of DC loads are connected to the terminals along the right side of the board. 

 

==Revision History==
The Version 2.4 is currently the most recent version of the DCSSR designed by Labrat in production.

=DCSSR Version 2.4 Parts=
In addition to the PCB, you will need the following components:
===Mouser===
<table border="1"><tr><td>'''Mouser BOM'''</td></tr>
<tr><td>Mouser PN</td><td>Description</td><td>Qty</td></tr>
<tr><td>534-3517</td><td>Fuseholders, Clips, & Hardware PC FUSE CLIP 5 MM</td><td>2</td></tr>
<tr><td>660-CF1/4C103J</td><td>Carbon Film Resistors - Through Hole 10Kohms 5%</td><td>4</td></tr>
<tr><td>80-C322C104Z5U</td><td>Multilayer Ceramic Capacitors (MLCC) - Leaded 50volts 0.1uF Z5U</td><td>2</td></tr>
<tr><td>512-LM78L05ACZX</td><td>Linear Regulators - Standard TO-92 .1A Pos Volt</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>660-CFS1/4CT52R471J</td><td>Carbon Film Resistors - Through Hole 470 OHM 5% 1/4W</td><td>4</td></tr>
<tr><td>660-CFS1/4CT52R681J</td><td>Carbon Film Resistors - Through Hole 680 OHM 5% 1/4W</td><td>4</td></tr>
<tr><td>782-K847PH</td><td>Transistor Output Optocouplers Phototransistor Out Quad CTR 50-600%</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>538-39890-0302 </td><td>Fixed Terminal Blocks 5.0MM ECONOMY 2P 14-24AWG</td><td>5</td></tr>
<tr><td>571-1-390261-4</td><td> IC & Component Sockets 16P ECONOMY TIN</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td> 512-FQPF13N06L</td><td>MOSFET 60V N-Channel QFET Logic Level</td><td>4</td></tr>
<tr><td>571-5556416-1</td><td>Ethernet & Telecom Connectors 8 PCB TOP ENTRY</td><td>1</td></tr>
<tr><td>604-WP7113ID</td><td>Standard LED - Through Hole HI EFF RED DIFFUSED</td><td>2</td></tr>
<tr><td> 71-CCF071K00GKE36</td><td> Metal Film Resistors - Through Hole 1/4watt 1Kohms 2% Rated to 1/2watt</td><td>2</td></tr>
<tr><td>TBD</td><td>Fuse</td><td>1</td></tr>
</table> 
===Heatsink===
The design calls for a heatsink to be attached to the MOSFETS to provide maximum power handling capability. It may be purchased at [http://www.diyledexpress.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=74| www.diyledexpress.com] 

===Housing===
The DCSSR Version 2.4 was designed to fit in the TA-200 Demarcation Enclosure available from numerous vendors including [http://wlcventures.com/zencart/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=1| www.wlcventures.com]. 

=Building the DCSSR Version 2.4=
==Assembly==

The DCSSR Version 2.4 is a simple device to assemble and test. It is easiest if you build the units by inserting the various components from smallest to tallest .

1) Begin by inspecting the PCBs to look for any defects such as cracks or breaks. The holes on the board should be open on both sides. Then inspect and sort out the various parts for the board.

2) Install the four 470 ohm resistors in positions R1-R4 in the center of the board. The resistors are not polarized so they can go either way.

3) Install the four 10K ohm resistors in positions R5-R8 in the center of the board. The resistors are not polarized so they can go either way.

4) Install the four 680 ohm resistors in R9-R12 on the left side of the board. The resistors are not polarized so they can go either way.

5) Install the two 1K ohm resistors in R13-R14 on the top left and bottom left of the board. The resistors are not polarized so they can go either way.

6) Install the two 0.1 uF capacitors in positions C1-C2 on the bottom left of the board. The capacitors are not polarized so they can go either way.

7) Install the Install the 16 pin socket in the center of the board. Note that the notch faces the top of the board matching the silkscreen pattern on the PCB.

8) Install the Green LED in the position marked Signal near the top of the board next to the RJ45 jack. Note that the LED is polarized and long lead should go towards the bottom of the board.

9) Insert the Red LED in the position marked Power near the bottom left of the board. Note that the LED is polarized and the long lead should face towards the top of the board.

10) Install the 5v linear regulator on the bottom left side of the board. Note that there are two sets of three holes. If you are using the small TO-92 package regulator listed in the BOM then the 7805 will use the holes closest to the caps. Note the regulator is polarized and the flat side should face left to match the orientation on the silkscreen.

11) It is now possible to test the White LEDs and the constant current driver by applying 12vdc to the W+ and W- terminals.

12) Install the two fuse clips near the top center of the circuit board. It may be easier to put the fuse in then install them on the PCB to ensure they are installed in the correct direction and line up. Be careful, the fuse holders require a fair amount of solder and heat to attach them and you may melt the end of the fuse if you are not careful.

13) Connect the five 2 position screw terminal strips together by sliding the notches on the sides together. Next solder them to the circuit board.

14) Install the 4 MOSFETs in the center of the board. It may be easier to attach them to the heat sink first using heatsink compound and screws and nuts, then soldering them to the PCB so they line up correctly. The MOSFETs are polarized and they should be installed with the tab facing the screw terminals.

15) Install the RJ45 jack to the top left of the board. Gently align the eight wires with the matching holes and snap the connector to the board. Solder the connector to the circuit board being careful to not short out the connectors.

16) Install the fuse in the clips if it is not already there.

17) Gently install the Optoisolator in the socket making sure that the notch faces the top of the board , matching the silkscreen drawing.

18) Inspect the board to look for any missing solder joints, solder bridges or cold solder joints.

Congratulations! That completes the construction of the DCSSR Version 2.4 ! 

==Final Testing==
TBD 

==Mounting in Housing==
The DCSSR Version 2.4 attach directly to the TA-200 Demarcation enclosure using #4 sheet metal screws. 

=Power Requirements=
The DCSSR4 Version 2.4 can switch DC loads from 5-24VDC. The design provides local power for the optoisolator and the MOSFETs by using a local voltage regulator on the DC IN power. The voltage regulator does not work on the DC loads, so that any voltage applied to the DC IN terminals is fully available at the Output Terminals.

While the MOSFETs are capable of switching up to 10A each, the traces on the board cannot handle that much power. Each channel should be limited to 4 A and the total for all 4 channels should be limited to 10A. 
br/>

= Controlling the DCSSR Version 2.4 =
The DCSSR Version 2.4 requires a DC controller to be connected to its input for automated lighting. It can be driven by a variety of DC controllers. The [[Renard_64XC|Ren64XC]] and the [[Ren48LSDv3c|Ren48LSD]] are both configured to drive the DCSSR and have matching RJ45 jacks. 

The V+ is common for all four channels and the individual channels are controlled by switching the V- to ground. 

RJ45 controller inputs on the RJ45 jack should be as follows: 
Pin 1 - +5v supply 
Pin 2 - Channel 1 output 
Pin 3 - reserved 
Pin 4 - Channel 2 output 
Pin 5 - reserved 
Pin 6 - Channel 3 output 
Pin 7 - Ground 
Pin 8 - Channel 4 output 

=Schematic=
TBD

=PCB=
TBD
=Design Options=
TBD

=Other Information=
TBD

==DCSSR Version 2.4 Discussion Threads==
TBD

==FAQ==
TBD 

[[Category:SSR]]
[[Category:DIYC Controllers]]
[[Category:DIYC Index]]
[[Category:Display Items]]

PIX-C

2012-02-07T13:14:30Z

LabRat: /* Schematic */

== Background ==
[[Image:Pix-c.jpg|200px|right]]
In the beginning the world smelled mostly of Nutmeg, and mulled cider. At that time Robert Jordan had an idea to create a DIY LED sign that could easily be made by the home Blinky Enthusiast. He called it LEDTRIKS and he showed it to the masses, and they thought it was good. In time however the world grew tired of Nutmeg and craved the spiceness of Gingerbread and TimW entered the scene. He designed a small controller that could offload the repetative task of refreshing the LED panel from the PC. He called it TRICKS-C and he showed it to the masses, and they thought it was good. While sitting looking at his LED panel Andrew Williams(no relation to TimW) theorized that he should be able to build a controller compatible with TRICKS-C, without the need to learn a new micro, purchase new tools, or install a new tool-chain. Entitled the PIX-C this controller will duplicate the functionality of the TRICKS-C, but use only parts already used on a typical RENARD controller. Now if only the world would smell like Candy Canes.

== The Files ==

=== Schematic ===

[[File:Pix-C_v2_2_Schematic.pdf]]

[[Media:PIX-C_V2_3.png]]

=== Bill of Materials ===

[http://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=68dc1141c4 PIX-C v2.2 Mouser Quick Order BOM]

[http://www.mouser.com:80/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=a9b2ec75c7 PIX-C v2.3 Mouser Quick Order BOM]

[[Image:PIX-C_BOM.jpg|200px]]

'''Note:''' Markings on the PCB SN75176BP are '''WRONG'''. The correct part is SN75179BP.
This is listed correctly in the visual BOM above, and in the Mouser project.

=== Gerbers ===

[http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/dynamics/showentry.php?e=103 ZIP Archive in the FILE LIBRARY]

=== Firmware ===

Main program ASM file [[File:Pix-c.asm]].

Link to the entire ZIP archive. [http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/dynamics/showentry.php?e=104 PIX-C ZIP Archive]

==== Known Issues (PIX-C 2.2) ====
The serial re-transmit on the PIX-C 2.2 does not work properly. This results in corrupted image "downstream" of the first PIX-C. A simple hardware solution exists. Cut the trace coming FROM pin 6 of the PIC 16F688, and then jumper pins 2 & 3 of the SN75179BP. This will cause all incoming bits to be echoed as outgoing traffic. Version 2.3 of the PIX-C introduced a jumper that can be used to do this modification, rather than cutting traces on the board.

== Build Instructions ==

Step 1 - Install 470 (R3,R8) ohm resistors

[[Image:PIX-C_STEP_01.jpg|200px]]

Step 2 - Install 1K (R1,R2,R4) ohm resistors

[[Image:PIX-C_STEP_02.jpg|200px]]

Step 3 - Install 1N5239B diode (NOTE: Orientation!)

[[Image:PIX-C_STEP_03.jpg|200px]]

Step 4 - Install 0.1 uf (C1,C3) capacitors

[[Image:PIX-C_STEP_04.jpg|200px]]

Step 5 - Install DIP sockets (NOTE: Notch/Pin 1 orientation)

[[Image:PIX-C_STEP_05.jpg|200px]]

Step 6 - Install LEDs (may not appear as shown)

[[Image:PIX-C_STEP_06.jpg|200px]]

Step 6A - PIX-C version 2.3 ONLY - Install the 3 pin jumper header.
(No image available)

Step 7 - Install RJ45 jacks (may not appear exactly as shown)

[[Image:PIX-C_STEP_07.jpg|200px]]

Step 8 - Install 10 uf (C2) capacitor (NOTE: Polarity !!)

[[Image:PIX-C_STEP_08.jpg|200px]]

Last Step - insert the RS485, and PIC chips into their sockets.

*NOTE: PIC should be programmed in advance. Do not attempt to use the "In Circuit Programming Header" as there is insufficient clearance to do so.

== Controlling the PIX-C ==

The PIX-C is backwards compatible with the TRICKS-C and is thus controlled by the DOS LTC.exe program.

The following additional commands were added to LTC.exe version 11

'''#P_PROGRAM''' - used to program the panel addres into the PIX-C.
'''#P_FSnXX''' - tell panel 'n' to display ROM image XX (0-7 ROM, 8&9 EPROM)
'''#P_FWnXX''' - tell panel 'n' to store current image buffer at EEPROM location X (8/9)

===Power connections===
are shown in the following diagram.

[[Image:PIX-C_Power.jpg|200px]]

[[Category:LEDTriks]]
[[Category:DIYC Index]]

File:PIX-C V2 3.png

2012-02-07T13:10:57Z

LabRat: PIX-C version 2.3 schematic

PIX-C version 2.3 schematic

PIX-C

2012-02-07T13:08:14Z

LabRat:

== Background ==
[[Image:Pix-c.jpg|200px|right]]
In the beginning the world smelled mostly of Nutmeg, and mulled cider. At that time Robert Jordan had an idea to create a DIY LED sign that could easily be made by the home Blinky Enthusiast. He called it LEDTRIKS and he showed it to the masses, and they thought it was good. In time however the world grew tired of Nutmeg and craved the spiceness of Gingerbread and TimW entered the scene. He designed a small controller that could offload the repetative task of refreshing the LED panel from the PC. He called it TRICKS-C and he showed it to the masses, and they thought it was good. While sitting looking at his LED panel Andrew Williams(no relation to TimW) theorized that he should be able to build a controller compatible with TRICKS-C, without the need to learn a new micro, purchase new tools, or install a new tool-chain. Entitled the PIX-C this controller will duplicate the functionality of the TRICKS-C, but use only parts already used on a typical RENARD controller. Now if only the world would smell like Candy Canes.

== The Files ==

=== Schematic ===

[[File:Pix-C_v2_2_Schematic.pdf]]

=== Bill of Materials ===

[http://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=68dc1141c4 PIX-C v2.2 Mouser Quick Order BOM]

[http://www.mouser.com:80/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=a9b2ec75c7 PIX-C v2.3 Mouser Quick Order BOM]

[[Image:PIX-C_BOM.jpg|200px]]

'''Note:''' Markings on the PCB SN75176BP are '''WRONG'''. The correct part is SN75179BP.
This is listed correctly in the visual BOM above, and in the Mouser project.

=== Gerbers ===

[http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/dynamics/showentry.php?e=103 ZIP Archive in the FILE LIBRARY]

=== Firmware ===

Main program ASM file [[File:Pix-c.asm]].

Link to the entire ZIP archive. [http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/dynamics/showentry.php?e=104 PIX-C ZIP Archive]

==== Known Issues (PIX-C 2.2) ====
The serial re-transmit on the PIX-C 2.2 does not work properly. This results in corrupted image "downstream" of the first PIX-C. A simple hardware solution exists. Cut the trace coming FROM pin 6 of the PIC 16F688, and then jumper pins 2 & 3 of the SN75179BP. This will cause all incoming bits to be echoed as outgoing traffic. Version 2.3 of the PIX-C introduced a jumper that can be used to do this modification, rather than cutting traces on the board.

== Build Instructions ==

Step 1 - Install 470 (R3,R8) ohm resistors

[[Image:PIX-C_STEP_01.jpg|200px]]

Step 2 - Install 1K (R1,R2,R4) ohm resistors

[[Image:PIX-C_STEP_02.jpg|200px]]

Step 3 - Install 1N5239B diode (NOTE: Orientation!)

[[Image:PIX-C_STEP_03.jpg|200px]]

Step 4 - Install 0.1 uf (C1,C3) capacitors

[[Image:PIX-C_STEP_04.jpg|200px]]

Step 5 - Install DIP sockets (NOTE: Notch/Pin 1 orientation)

[[Image:PIX-C_STEP_05.jpg|200px]]

Step 6 - Install LEDs (may not appear as shown)

[[Image:PIX-C_STEP_06.jpg|200px]]

Step 6A - PIX-C version 2.3 ONLY - Install the 3 pin jumper header.
(No image available)

Step 7 - Install RJ45 jacks (may not appear exactly as shown)

[[Image:PIX-C_STEP_07.jpg|200px]]

Step 8 - Install 10 uf (C2) capacitor (NOTE: Polarity !!)

[[Image:PIX-C_STEP_08.jpg|200px]]

Last Step - insert the RS485, and PIC chips into their sockets.

*NOTE: PIC should be programmed in advance. Do not attempt to use the "In Circuit Programming Header" as there is insufficient clearance to do so.

== Controlling the PIX-C ==

The PIX-C is backwards compatible with the TRICKS-C and is thus controlled by the DOS LTC.exe program.

The following additional commands were added to LTC.exe version 11

'''#P_PROGRAM''' - used to program the panel addres into the PIX-C.
'''#P_FSnXX''' - tell panel 'n' to display ROM image XX (0-7 ROM, 8&9 EPROM)
'''#P_FWnXX''' - tell panel 'n' to store current image buffer at EEPROM location X (8/9)

===Power connections===
are shown in the following diagram.

[[Image:PIX-C_Power.jpg|200px]]

[[Category:LEDTriks]]
[[Category:DIYC Index]]

PIX-C

2012-02-07T12:45:53Z

LabRat: /* Build Instructions */

== Background ==
[[Image:Pix-c.jpg|200px|right]]
In the beginning the world smelled mostly of Nutmeg, and mulled cider. At that time Robert Jordan had an idea to create a DIY LED sign that could easily be made by the home Blinky Enthusiast. He called it LEDTRIKS and he showed it to the masses, and they thought it was good. In time however the world grew tired of Nutmeg and craved the spiceness of Gingerbread and TimW entered the scene. He designed a small controller that could offload the repetative task of refreshing the LED panel from the PC. He called it TRICKS-C and he showed it to the masses, and they thought it was good. While sitting looking at his LED panel Andrew Williams(no relation to TimW) theorized that he should be able to build a controller compatible with TRICKS-C, without the need to learn a new micro, purchase new tools, or install a new tool-chain. Entitled the PIX-C this controller will duplicate the functionality of the TRICKS-C, but use only parts already used on a typical RENARD controller. Now if only the world would smell like Candy Canes.

== The Files ==

=== Schematic ===

[[File:Pix-C_v2_2_Schematic.pdf]]

=== Bill of Materials ===

[http://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=68dc1141c4 PIX-C v2.2 Mouser Quick Order BOM]

[http://www.mouser.com:80/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=a9b2ec75c7 PIX-C v2.4 Mouser Quick Order BOM]

[[Image:PIX-C_BOM.jpg|200px]]

'''Note:''' Markings on the PCB SN75176BP are '''WRONG'''. The correct part is SN75179BP.
This is listed correctly in the visual BOM above, and in the Mouser project.

=== Gerbers ===

[http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/dynamics/showentry.php?e=103 ZIP Archive in the FILE LIBRARY]

=== Firmware ===

Main program ASM file [[File:Pix-c.asm]].

Link to the entire ZIP archive. [http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/dynamics/showentry.php?e=104 PIX-C ZIP Archive]

==== Known Issues (PIX-C 2.2) ====
The serial re-transmit on the PIX-C 2.2 does not work properly. This results in corrupted image "downstream" of the first PIX-C. A simple hardware solution exists. Cut the trace coming FROM pin 6 of the PIC 16F688, and then jumper pins 2 & 3 of the SN75179BP. This will cause all incoming bits to be echoed as outgoing traffic. Version 2.4 of the PIX-C introduced a jumper that can be used to do this modification, rather than cutting traces on the board.

== Build Instructions ==

Step 1 - Install 470 (R3,R8) ohm resistors

[[Image:PIX-C_STEP_01.jpg|200px]]

Step 2 - Install 1K (R1,R2,R4) ohm resistors

[[Image:PIX-C_STEP_02.jpg|200px]]

Step 3 - Install 1N5239B diode (NOTE: Orientation!)

[[Image:PIX-C_STEP_03.jpg|200px]]

Step 4 - Install 0.1 uf (C1,C3) capacitors

[[Image:PIX-C_STEP_04.jpg|200px]]

Step 5 - Install DIP sockets (NOTE: Notch/Pin 1 orientation)

[[Image:PIX-C_STEP_05.jpg|200px]]

Step 6 - Install LEDs (may not appear as shown)

[[Image:PIX-C_STEP_06.jpg|200px]]

Step 6A - PIX-C version 2.4 ONLY - Install the 3 pin jumper header.
(No image available)

Step 7 - Install RJ45 jacks (may not appear exactly as shown)

[[Image:PIX-C_STEP_07.jpg|200px]]

Step 8 - Install 10 uf (C2) capacitor (NOTE: Polarity !!)

[[Image:PIX-C_STEP_08.jpg|200px]]

Last Step - insert the RS485, and PIC chips into their sockets.

*NOTE: PIC should be programmed in advance. Do not attempt to use the "In Circuit Programming Header" as there is insufficient clearance to do so.

== Controlling the PIX-C ==

The PIX-C is backwards compatible with the TRICKS-C and is thus controlled by the DOS LTC.exe program.

The following additional commands were added to LTC.exe version 11

'''#P_PROGRAM''' - used to program the panel addres into the PIX-C.
'''#P_FSnXX''' - tell panel 'n' to display ROM image XX (0-7 ROM, 8&9 EPROM)
'''#P_FWnXX''' - tell panel 'n' to store current image buffer at EEPROM location X (8/9)

===Power connections===
are shown in the following diagram.

[[Image:PIX-C_Power.jpg|200px]]

[[Category:LEDTriks]]
[[Category:DIYC Index]]

PIX-C

2012-02-07T12:45:30Z

LabRat: /* Build Instructions */

== Background ==
[[Image:Pix-c.jpg|200px|right]]
In the beginning the world smelled mostly of Nutmeg, and mulled cider. At that time Robert Jordan had an idea to create a DIY LED sign that could easily be made by the home Blinky Enthusiast. He called it LEDTRIKS and he showed it to the masses, and they thought it was good. In time however the world grew tired of Nutmeg and craved the spiceness of Gingerbread and TimW entered the scene. He designed a small controller that could offload the repetative task of refreshing the LED panel from the PC. He called it TRICKS-C and he showed it to the masses, and they thought it was good. While sitting looking at his LED panel Andrew Williams(no relation to TimW) theorized that he should be able to build a controller compatible with TRICKS-C, without the need to learn a new micro, purchase new tools, or install a new tool-chain. Entitled the PIX-C this controller will duplicate the functionality of the TRICKS-C, but use only parts already used on a typical RENARD controller. Now if only the world would smell like Candy Canes.

== The Files ==

=== Schematic ===

[[File:Pix-C_v2_2_Schematic.pdf]]

=== Bill of Materials ===

[http://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=68dc1141c4 PIX-C v2.2 Mouser Quick Order BOM]

[http://www.mouser.com:80/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=a9b2ec75c7 PIX-C v2.4 Mouser Quick Order BOM]

[[Image:PIX-C_BOM.jpg|200px]]

'''Note:''' Markings on the PCB SN75176BP are '''WRONG'''. The correct part is SN75179BP.
This is listed correctly in the visual BOM above, and in the Mouser project.

=== Gerbers ===

[http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/dynamics/showentry.php?e=103 ZIP Archive in the FILE LIBRARY]

=== Firmware ===

Main program ASM file [[File:Pix-c.asm]].

Link to the entire ZIP archive. [http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/dynamics/showentry.php?e=104 PIX-C ZIP Archive]

==== Known Issues (PIX-C 2.2) ====
The serial re-transmit on the PIX-C 2.2 does not work properly. This results in corrupted image "downstream" of the first PIX-C. A simple hardware solution exists. Cut the trace coming FROM pin 6 of the PIC 16F688, and then jumper pins 2 & 3 of the SN75179BP. This will cause all incoming bits to be echoed as outgoing traffic. Version 2.4 of the PIX-C introduced a jumper that can be used to do this modification, rather than cutting traces on the board.

== Build Instructions ==

Step 1 - Install 470 (R3,R8) ohm resistors

[[Image:PIX-C_STEP_01.jpg|200px]]

Step 2 - Install 1K (R1,R2,R4) ohm resistors

[[Image:PIX-C_STEP_02.jpg|200px]]

Step 3 - Install 1N5239B diode (NOTE: Orientation!)

[[Image:PIX-C_STEP_03.jpg|200px]]

Step 4 - Install 0.1 uf (C1,C3) capacitors

[[Image:PIX-C_STEP_04.jpg|200px]]

Step 5 - Install DIP sockets (NOTE: Notch/Pin 1 orientation)

[[Image:PIX-C_STEP_05.jpg|200px]]

Step 6 - Install LEDs (may not appear as shown)

[[Image:PIX-C_STEP_06.jpg|200px]]

Step 6A - PIX-C version 2.4 ONLY - Install the 3 pin jumper header.

Step 7 - Install RJ45 jacks (may not appear exactly as shown)

[[Image:PIX-C_STEP_07.jpg|200px]]

Step 8 - Install 10 uf (C2) capacitor (NOTE: Polarity !!)

[[Image:PIX-C_STEP_08.jpg|200px]]

Last Step - insert the RS485, and PIC chips into their sockets.

*NOTE: PIC should be programmed in advance. Do not attempt to use the "In Circuit Programming Header" as there is insufficient clearance to do so.

== Controlling the PIX-C ==

The PIX-C is backwards compatible with the TRICKS-C and is thus controlled by the DOS LTC.exe program.

The following additional commands were added to LTC.exe version 11

'''#P_PROGRAM''' - used to program the panel addres into the PIX-C.
'''#P_FSnXX''' - tell panel 'n' to display ROM image XX (0-7 ROM, 8&9 EPROM)
'''#P_FWnXX''' - tell panel 'n' to store current image buffer at EEPROM location X (8/9)

===Power connections===
are shown in the following diagram.

[[Image:PIX-C_Power.jpg|200px]]

[[Category:LEDTriks]]
[[Category:DIYC Index]]

PIX-C

2012-02-07T12:38:37Z

LabRat:

== Background ==
[[Image:Pix-c.jpg|200px|right]]
In the beginning the world smelled mostly of Nutmeg, and mulled cider. At that time Robert Jordan had an idea to create a DIY LED sign that could easily be made by the home Blinky Enthusiast. He called it LEDTRIKS and he showed it to the masses, and they thought it was good. In time however the world grew tired of Nutmeg and craved the spiceness of Gingerbread and TimW entered the scene. He designed a small controller that could offload the repetative task of refreshing the LED panel from the PC. He called it TRICKS-C and he showed it to the masses, and they thought it was good. While sitting looking at his LED panel Andrew Williams(no relation to TimW) theorized that he should be able to build a controller compatible with TRICKS-C, without the need to learn a new micro, purchase new tools, or install a new tool-chain. Entitled the PIX-C this controller will duplicate the functionality of the TRICKS-C, but use only parts already used on a typical RENARD controller. Now if only the world would smell like Candy Canes.

== The Files ==

=== Schematic ===

[[File:Pix-C_v2_2_Schematic.pdf]]

=== Bill of Materials ===

[http://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=68dc1141c4 PIX-C v2.2 Mouser Quick Order BOM]

[http://www.mouser.com:80/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=a9b2ec75c7 PIX-C v2.4 Mouser Quick Order BOM]

[[Image:PIX-C_BOM.jpg|200px]]

'''Note:''' Markings on the PCB SN75176BP are '''WRONG'''. The correct part is SN75179BP.
This is listed correctly in the visual BOM above, and in the Mouser project.

=== Gerbers ===

[http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/dynamics/showentry.php?e=103 ZIP Archive in the FILE LIBRARY]

=== Firmware ===

Main program ASM file [[File:Pix-c.asm]].

Link to the entire ZIP archive. [http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/dynamics/showentry.php?e=104 PIX-C ZIP Archive]

==== Known Issues (PIX-C 2.2) ====
The serial re-transmit on the PIX-C 2.2 does not work properly. This results in corrupted image "downstream" of the first PIX-C. A simple hardware solution exists. Cut the trace coming FROM pin 6 of the PIC 16F688, and then jumper pins 2 & 3 of the SN75179BP. This will cause all incoming bits to be echoed as outgoing traffic. Version 2.4 of the PIX-C introduced a jumper that can be used to do this modification, rather than cutting traces on the board.

== Build Instructions ==

Step 1 - Install 470 (R3,R8) ohm resistors

[[Image:PIX-C_STEP_01.jpg|200px]]

Step 2 - Install 1K (R1,R2,R4) ohm resistors

[[Image:PIX-C_STEP_02.jpg|200px]]

Step 3 - Install 1N5239B diode (NOTE: Orientation!)

[[Image:PIX-C_STEP_03.jpg|200px]]

Step 4 - Install 0.1 uf (C1,C3) capacitors

[[Image:PIX-C_STEP_04.jpg|200px]]

Step 5 - Install DIP sockets (NOTE: Notch/Pin 1 orientation)

[[Image:PIX-C_STEP_05.jpg|200px]]

Step 6 - Install LEDs (may not appear as shown)

[[Image:PIX-C_STEP_06.jpg|200px]]

Step 7 - Install RJ45 jacks (may not appear exactly as shown)

[[Image:PIX-C_STEP_07.jpg|200px]]

Step 8 - Install 10 uf (C2) capacitor (NOTE: Polarity !!)

[[Image:PIX-C_STEP_08.jpg|200px]]

Last Step - insert the RS485, and PIC chips into their sockets.

*NOTE: PIC should be programmed in advance. Do not attempt to use the "In Circuit Programming Header" as there is insufficient clearance to do so.

== Controlling the PIX-C ==

The PIX-C is backwards compatible with the TRICKS-C and is thus controlled by the DOS LTC.exe program.

The following additional commands were added to LTC.exe version 11

'''#P_PROGRAM''' - used to program the panel addres into the PIX-C.
'''#P_FSnXX''' - tell panel 'n' to display ROM image XX (0-7 ROM, 8&9 EPROM)
'''#P_FWnXX''' - tell panel 'n' to store current image buffer at EEPROM location X (8/9)

===Power connections===
are shown in the following diagram.

[[Image:PIX-C_Power.jpg|200px]]

[[Category:LEDTriks]]
[[Category:DIYC Index]]

PIX-C

2012-02-06T14:27:02Z

LabRat: /* Bill of Materials */

== Background ==
[[Image:Pix-c.jpg|200px|right]]
In the beginning the world smelled mostly of Nutmeg, and mulled cider. At that time Robert Jordan had an idea to create a DIY LED sign that could easily be made by the home Blinky Enthusiast. He called it LEDTRIKS and he showed it to the masses, and they thought it was good. In time however the world grew tired of Nutmeg and craved the spiceness of Gingerbread and TimW entered the scene. He designed a small controller that could offload the repetative task of refreshing the LED panel from the PC. He called it TRICKS-C and he showed it to the masses, and they thought it was good. While sitting looking at his LED panel Andrew Williams(no relation to TimW) theorized that he should be able to build a controller compatible with TRICKS-C, without the need to learn a new micro, purchase new tools, or install a new tool-chain. Entitled the PIX-C this controller will duplicate the functionality of the TRICKS-C, but use only parts already used on a typical RENARD controller. Now if only the world would smell like Candy Canes.

== The Files ==

=== Schematic ===

[[File:Pix-C_v2_2_Schematic.pdf]]

=== Bill of Materials ===

[http://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=68dc1141c4 PIX-C v2.2 Mouser Quick Order BOM]

[http://www.mouser.com:80/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=a9b2ec75c7 PIX-C v2.4 Mouser Quick Order BOM]

[[Image:PIX-C_BOM.jpg|200px]]

'''Note:''' Markings on the PCB SN75176BP are '''WRONG'''. The correct part is SN75179BP.
This is listed correctly in the visual BOM above, and in the Mouser project.

=== Gerbers ===

[http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/dynamics/showentry.php?e=103 ZIP Archive in the FILE LIBRARY]

=== Firmware ===

Main program ASM file [[File:Pix-c.asm]].

Link to the entire ZIP archive. [http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/dynamics/showentry.php?e=104 PIX-C ZIP Archive]

== Build Instructions ==

Step 1 - Install 470 (R3,R8) ohm resistors

[[Image:PIX-C_STEP_01.jpg|200px]]

Step 2 - Install 1K (R1,R2,R4) ohm resistors

[[Image:PIX-C_STEP_02.jpg|200px]]

Step 3 - Install 1N5239B diode (NOTE: Orientation!)

[[Image:PIX-C_STEP_03.jpg|200px]]

Step 4 - Install 0.1 uf (C1,C3) capacitors

[[Image:PIX-C_STEP_04.jpg|200px]]

Step 5 - Install DIP sockets (NOTE: Notch/Pin 1 orientation)

[[Image:PIX-C_STEP_05.jpg|200px]]

Step 6 - Install LEDs (may not appear as shown)

[[Image:PIX-C_STEP_06.jpg|200px]]

Step 7 - Install RJ45 jacks (may not appear exactly as shown)

[[Image:PIX-C_STEP_07.jpg|200px]]

Step 8 - Install 10 uf (C2) capacitor (NOTE: Polarity !!)

[[Image:PIX-C_STEP_08.jpg|200px]]

Last Step - insert the RS485, and PIC chips into their sockets.

*NOTE: PIC should be programmed in advance. Do not attempt to use the "In Circuit Programming Header" as there is insufficient clearance to do so.

== Controlling the PIX-C ==

The PIX-C is backwards compatible with the TRICKS-C and is thus controlled by the DOS LTC.exe program.

The following additional commands were added to LTC.exe version 11

'''#P_PROGRAM''' - used to program the panel addres into the PIX-C.
'''#P_FSnXX''' - tell panel 'n' to display ROM image XX (0-7 ROM, 8&9 EPROM)
'''#P_FWnXX''' - tell panel 'n' to store current image buffer at EEPROM location X (8/9)

===Power connections===
are shown in the following diagram.

[[Image:PIX-C_Power.jpg|200px]]

[[Category:LEDTriks]]
[[Category:DIYC Index]]

PIX-C

2012-02-06T14:26:51Z

LabRat: /* Bill of Materials */

== Background ==
[[Image:Pix-c.jpg|200px|right]]
In the beginning the world smelled mostly of Nutmeg, and mulled cider. At that time Robert Jordan had an idea to create a DIY LED sign that could easily be made by the home Blinky Enthusiast. He called it LEDTRIKS and he showed it to the masses, and they thought it was good. In time however the world grew tired of Nutmeg and craved the spiceness of Gingerbread and TimW entered the scene. He designed a small controller that could offload the repetative task of refreshing the LED panel from the PC. He called it TRICKS-C and he showed it to the masses, and they thought it was good. While sitting looking at his LED panel Andrew Williams(no relation to TimW) theorized that he should be able to build a controller compatible with TRICKS-C, without the need to learn a new micro, purchase new tools, or install a new tool-chain. Entitled the PIX-C this controller will duplicate the functionality of the TRICKS-C, but use only parts already used on a typical RENARD controller. Now if only the world would smell like Candy Canes.

== The Files ==

=== Schematic ===

[[File:Pix-C_v2_2_Schematic.pdf]]

=== Bill of Materials ===

[http://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=68dc1141c4 PIX-C v2.2 Mouser Quick Order BOM]
[http://www.mouser.com:80/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=a9b2ec75c7 PIX-C v2.4 Mouser Quick Order BOM]

[[Image:PIX-C_BOM.jpg|200px]]

'''Note:''' Markings on the PCB SN75176BP are '''WRONG'''. The correct part is SN75179BP.
This is listed correctly in the visual BOM above, and in the Mouser project.

=== Gerbers ===

[http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/dynamics/showentry.php?e=103 ZIP Archive in the FILE LIBRARY]

=== Firmware ===

Main program ASM file [[File:Pix-c.asm]].

Link to the entire ZIP archive. [http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/dynamics/showentry.php?e=104 PIX-C ZIP Archive]

== Build Instructions ==

Step 1 - Install 470 (R3,R8) ohm resistors

[[Image:PIX-C_STEP_01.jpg|200px]]

Step 2 - Install 1K (R1,R2,R4) ohm resistors

[[Image:PIX-C_STEP_02.jpg|200px]]

Step 3 - Install 1N5239B diode (NOTE: Orientation!)

[[Image:PIX-C_STEP_03.jpg|200px]]

Step 4 - Install 0.1 uf (C1,C3) capacitors

[[Image:PIX-C_STEP_04.jpg|200px]]

Step 5 - Install DIP sockets (NOTE: Notch/Pin 1 orientation)

[[Image:PIX-C_STEP_05.jpg|200px]]

Step 6 - Install LEDs (may not appear as shown)

[[Image:PIX-C_STEP_06.jpg|200px]]

Step 7 - Install RJ45 jacks (may not appear exactly as shown)

[[Image:PIX-C_STEP_07.jpg|200px]]

Step 8 - Install 10 uf (C2) capacitor (NOTE: Polarity !!)

[[Image:PIX-C_STEP_08.jpg|200px]]

Last Step - insert the RS485, and PIC chips into their sockets.

*NOTE: PIC should be programmed in advance. Do not attempt to use the "In Circuit Programming Header" as there is insufficient clearance to do so.

== Controlling the PIX-C ==

The PIX-C is backwards compatible with the TRICKS-C and is thus controlled by the DOS LTC.exe program.

The following additional commands were added to LTC.exe version 11

'''#P_PROGRAM''' - used to program the panel addres into the PIX-C.
'''#P_FSnXX''' - tell panel 'n' to display ROM image XX (0-7 ROM, 8&9 EPROM)
'''#P_FWnXX''' - tell panel 'n' to store current image buffer at EEPROM location X (8/9)

===Power connections===
are shown in the following diagram.

[[Image:PIX-C_Power.jpg|200px]]

[[Category:LEDTriks]]
[[Category:DIYC Index]]

PIX-C

2012-02-06T14:02:13Z

LabRat: /* Bill of Materials */

== Background ==
[[Image:Pix-c.jpg|200px|right]]
In the beginning the world smelled mostly of Nutmeg, and mulled cider. At that time Robert Jordan had an idea to create a DIY LED sign that could easily be made by the home Blinky Enthusiast. He called it LEDTRIKS and he showed it to the masses, and they thought it was good. In time however the world grew tired of Nutmeg and craved the spiceness of Gingerbread and TimW entered the scene. He designed a small controller that could offload the repetative task of refreshing the LED panel from the PC. He called it TRICKS-C and he showed it to the masses, and they thought it was good. While sitting looking at his LED panel Andrew Williams(no relation to TimW) theorized that he should be able to build a controller compatible with TRICKS-C, without the need to learn a new micro, purchase new tools, or install a new tool-chain. Entitled the PIX-C this controller will duplicate the functionality of the TRICKS-C, but use only parts already used on a typical RENARD controller. Now if only the world would smell like Candy Canes.

== The Files ==

=== Schematic ===

[[File:Pix-C_v2_2_Schematic.pdf]]

=== Bill of Materials ===

[http://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=68dc1141c4 PIX-C v2.2 Mouser Quick Order BOM]

[[Image:PIX-C_BOM.jpg|200px]]

'''Note:''' Markings on the PCB SN75176BP are '''WRONG'''. The correct part is SN75179BP.
This is listed correctly in the visual BOM above, and in the Mouser project.

=== Gerbers ===

[http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/dynamics/showentry.php?e=103 ZIP Archive in the FILE LIBRARY]

=== Firmware ===

Main program ASM file [[File:Pix-c.asm]].

Link to the entire ZIP archive. [http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/dynamics/showentry.php?e=104 PIX-C ZIP Archive]

== Build Instructions ==

Step 1 - Install 470 (R3,R8) ohm resistors

[[Image:PIX-C_STEP_01.jpg|200px]]

Step 2 - Install 1K (R1,R2,R4) ohm resistors

[[Image:PIX-C_STEP_02.jpg|200px]]

Step 3 - Install 1N5239B diode (NOTE: Orientation!)

[[Image:PIX-C_STEP_03.jpg|200px]]

Step 4 - Install 0.1 uf (C1,C3) capacitors

[[Image:PIX-C_STEP_04.jpg|200px]]

Step 5 - Install DIP sockets (NOTE: Notch/Pin 1 orientation)

[[Image:PIX-C_STEP_05.jpg|200px]]

Step 6 - Install LEDs (may not appear as shown)

[[Image:PIX-C_STEP_06.jpg|200px]]

Step 7 - Install RJ45 jacks (may not appear exactly as shown)

[[Image:PIX-C_STEP_07.jpg|200px]]

Step 8 - Install 10 uf (C2) capacitor (NOTE: Polarity !!)

[[Image:PIX-C_STEP_08.jpg|200px]]

Last Step - insert the RS485, and PIC chips into their sockets.

*NOTE: PIC should be programmed in advance. Do not attempt to use the "In Circuit Programming Header" as there is insufficient clearance to do so.

== Controlling the PIX-C ==

The PIX-C is backwards compatible with the TRICKS-C and is thus controlled by the DOS LTC.exe program.

The following additional commands were added to LTC.exe version 11

'''#P_PROGRAM''' - used to program the panel addres into the PIX-C.
'''#P_FSnXX''' - tell panel 'n' to display ROM image XX (0-7 ROM, 8&9 EPROM)
'''#P_FWnXX''' - tell panel 'n' to store current image buffer at EEPROM location X (8/9)

===Power connections===
are shown in the following diagram.

[[Image:PIX-C_Power.jpg|200px]]

[[Category:LEDTriks]]
[[Category:DIYC Index]]

PIX-C

2012-02-06T14:01:52Z

LabRat: /* Bill of Materials */

== Background ==
[[Image:Pix-c.jpg|200px|right]]
In the beginning the world smelled mostly of Nutmeg, and mulled cider. At that time Robert Jordan had an idea to create a DIY LED sign that could easily be made by the home Blinky Enthusiast. He called it LEDTRIKS and he showed it to the masses, and they thought it was good. In time however the world grew tired of Nutmeg and craved the spiceness of Gingerbread and TimW entered the scene. He designed a small controller that could offload the repetative task of refreshing the LED panel from the PC. He called it TRICKS-C and he showed it to the masses, and they thought it was good. While sitting looking at his LED panel Andrew Williams(no relation to TimW) theorized that he should be able to build a controller compatible with TRICKS-C, without the need to learn a new micro, purchase new tools, or install a new tool-chain. Entitled the PIX-C this controller will duplicate the functionality of the TRICKS-C, but use only parts already used on a typical RENARD controller. Now if only the world would smell like Candy Canes.

== The Files ==

=== Schematic ===

[[File:Pix-C_v2_2_Schematic.pdf]]

=== Bill of Materials ===

[http://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=68dc1141c4 IX-C v2.2 Mouser Quick Order BOM]

[[Image:PIX-C_BOM.jpg|200px]]

'''Note:''' Markings on the PCB SN75176BP are '''WRONG'''. The correct part is SN75179BP.
This is listed correctly in the visual BOM above, and in the Mouser project.

=== Gerbers ===

[http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/dynamics/showentry.php?e=103 ZIP Archive in the FILE LIBRARY]

=== Firmware ===

Main program ASM file [[File:Pix-c.asm]].

Link to the entire ZIP archive. [http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/dynamics/showentry.php?e=104 PIX-C ZIP Archive]

== Build Instructions ==

Step 1 - Install 470 (R3,R8) ohm resistors

[[Image:PIX-C_STEP_01.jpg|200px]]

Step 2 - Install 1K (R1,R2,R4) ohm resistors

[[Image:PIX-C_STEP_02.jpg|200px]]

Step 3 - Install 1N5239B diode (NOTE: Orientation!)

[[Image:PIX-C_STEP_03.jpg|200px]]

Step 4 - Install 0.1 uf (C1,C3) capacitors

[[Image:PIX-C_STEP_04.jpg|200px]]

Step 5 - Install DIP sockets (NOTE: Notch/Pin 1 orientation)

[[Image:PIX-C_STEP_05.jpg|200px]]

Step 6 - Install LEDs (may not appear as shown)

[[Image:PIX-C_STEP_06.jpg|200px]]

Step 7 - Install RJ45 jacks (may not appear exactly as shown)

[[Image:PIX-C_STEP_07.jpg|200px]]

Step 8 - Install 10 uf (C2) capacitor (NOTE: Polarity !!)

[[Image:PIX-C_STEP_08.jpg|200px]]

Last Step - insert the RS485, and PIC chips into their sockets.

*NOTE: PIC should be programmed in advance. Do not attempt to use the "In Circuit Programming Header" as there is insufficient clearance to do so.

== Controlling the PIX-C ==

The PIX-C is backwards compatible with the TRICKS-C and is thus controlled by the DOS LTC.exe program.

The following additional commands were added to LTC.exe version 11

'''#P_PROGRAM''' - used to program the panel addres into the PIX-C.
'''#P_FSnXX''' - tell panel 'n' to display ROM image XX (0-7 ROM, 8&9 EPROM)
'''#P_FWnXX''' - tell panel 'n' to store current image buffer at EEPROM location X (8/9)

===Power connections===
are shown in the following diagram.

[[Image:PIX-C_Power.jpg|200px]]

[[Category:LEDTriks]]
[[Category:DIYC Index]]

USB2DMX

2012-01-15T22:28:21Z

LabRat: /* Board building instructions */

= USB2DMX (aka YADA) =
[[Image:YADA_STEP_14_DONE.jpg|200px|thumb|right]]
The USB2DMX (which also goes by the name Yet Another DMX Adapter, or YADA), is a build-it-yourself project that provides connectivity between DMX controllers and the Vixen 2.1 lighting software. It was designed by Andrew Williams (LabRat) of Ottawa, Canada, in the spring and summer of 2010 and released to the community in September 2010.

Unlike other adapters in the do-it-yourself Christmas lights community, the USB2DMX is not plug compatible with the ENTTEC USB Pro – conversely, it costs almost 50 percent less than other adapters. This is achieved because of a one-chip design, where the main CPU handles both the USB input and the DMX output, simultaneously. Other designs, including the ENTTEC USB Pro, have one chipset handle the USB input and another chipset handle the DMX output.

Andrew's design leverages the work of Microchip Technology Inc. in using its chips for USB communications. The USB2DMX uses the PIC18F2455 and a handful of components to communicate between the user's PC running Vixen 2.1 and DMX controllers. The design supports full electrical isolation so that the PC is not directly connected to the controllers, insuring safety at both ends of the circuit.

In addition to not being ENTTEC Pro plug compatible, there are other compromises that must be made to achieve the USB2DMX's low cost: the device only works (as of its initial release) with the Vixen software; a special USB driver must be installed in the PC; the user is required to take a two-step process to burn the firmware into the microprocessor, and the user needs to make certain that three files are included in the Vixen plug-ins folder.

== Schematic & Board Files ==

=== Schematics ===

*[[File:Usb2Dmx_v2.2.pdf]]
*[[File:Usb2Dmx_v2_4.pdf]]

=== Gerbers ===

[http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/dynamics/showentry.php?e=102 Gerbers for v2.4 (in the FILE LIBRARY)]

== Board building instructions ==
Step 0 - Bill of Materials (BOM)

[http://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=ddc109894e $26.00 at Mouser]

[[Image:STEP_00_BOM.png|200px]]

Step 1 - Install 470 (R1, R4, R5, R6) ohm resistors

[[Image:YADA_STEP_01.jpg|200px]]

Step 2 - Install 10k (R7), 22k (R3), and 100 (R2) ohm resistors

[[Image:STEP_02.jpg|200px]]

Step 3 - Install 0.1 (C2,C4) uf capacitors

[[Image:YADA_STEP_03.jpg|200px]]

Step 4 - Install sockets (note PIN 1 orientation)

[[Image:YADA_STEP_04.jpg|200px]]

Step 5 - Install 0.22 (C1) uf capacitor

[[Image:YADA_STEP_05.jpg|200px]]

Step 6 - Install XTAL - 20Mhz resonator

[[Image:YADA_STEP_06.jpg|200px]]

Step 7 - Bend lead on ferrite bead (L1), install vertically.

[[Image:YADA_STEP_07a.jpg|100px]] [[Image:YADA_STEP_07.jpg|200px]]

Step 8 - Install LEDs (note FLAT edge)

[[Image:YADA_STEP_08.jpg|200px]]

Step 9 - Install PROG (Program) and RST (Reset) switches

[[Image:YADA_STEP_09.jpg|200px]]

Step 10 - Install DC/DC converter (power isolation) Note PIN 1 orientation

[[Image:YADA_STEP_10.jpg|200px]] [[Image:YADA_STEP_10a.jpg|200px]]

Step 11 - Install 100 uf (C3) capacitor (note polarity!!)

[[Image:YADA_STEP_11.jpg|200px]]

Step 12 - USB and RJ45 jacks(may not appear 100% as shown here)

[[Image:YADA_STEP_12.jpg|200px]]

Step 13 - Install programmed PIC 18F2455(U1), SN75179BP (RS485), optoisolator (6N137)

[[Image:YADA_STEP_13.jpg|200px]]

== Software and firmware ==

=== Firmware Images ===
Hex files and source code to be uploaded

=== Setup instructions ===
# Download the bootloader and the PIC firmware here.
# Using your favorite Microchip programming device (i.e.: Microchip PICkit2 or PICkit3), load the bootloader software into the PIC 18f2455.
# Remove the 18f2455 from the programming device and install it into your USB2DMX device.
# Download the Microchip USB software package: [http://ww1.microchip.com/downloads/en/DeviceDoc/MCHPFSUSB_Setup_v1.3.exe].
# Unzip the package, extract the application and install MCHPFSUSB_Setup_v1.3.exe as you would any Windows application. The software expects to install itself in the c: directory as c:\MCHPFSUSB\ ... if at all possible, please allow the installation here, as it will make the rest of these instructions easier to understand.
# Connect your USB2DMX to your PC using a USB-A/USB-B cable. There will be no "ding-dong" sound (called "USB enunciation") at this time. The DMX LED will be lit.
# The Windows operating system on the PC will acknowledge that a new piece of hardware has been attached to the computer, that a driver is not present and offer you a driver-installer application. (In the event this does not happen, go to Control Panel -> Add hardware and double-click.)
# The Add Hardware Wizard might need some help in adding the USB2DMX: your USB2DMX is probably not going to be listed in "The following hardware is already installed on your computer" list, so scroll to the end and choose "Add a new hardware device."
# In the next window of the wizard, choose "Install the hardware that I manually selected from a list."
# Choose "Custom USB devices" from the list.
# Click on "Microchip Custom USB Device" and then click on the "Have disk" button. Click on the "Browse" button and navigate to c:\MCHPFSUSB\Pc\MCHPUSB Driver\Release and click OK.
# Click "Next" twice; the Wizard should install the driver and you should hear the "ding-dong" of the PC recognizing the USB2DMX on the USB bus.
# Launch the PICDEM FS USB Demo Tool at c:\MCHPFSUSB\Pc\Pdfsusb\PDFUSB
# Choose the "Microchip Custom USB Device" from the pull-down menu and click on the "Load HEX file" menu, navigating to the Yada_v2 file you downloaded in Step 1.
# The PICDEM FS USB Demo Tool will throw up an error window at this point; choose "Yes."
# Push the "Program Device" button and then quit PICDEM FS USB Demo Tool.
# At this point, both the PWR and DMX lights should be lit on the USB2DMX device.
# Go to the directory c:\MCHPFSUSB\Pc\Mpusbapi\Dll\Borland_C\ and copy the file mpusbapi.dll to your Vixen 2.1 plug-ins directory.
# Download the Vixen plugins from here; unzip the files and copy them to your Vixen 2.1 plug-ins directory.
# Your Vixen plug-ins directory should have at least these three files: Vixen_DmxRat.dll, Vixen_DmxRat.pdb, mpusbapi.dll.
# Launch Vixen 2.1 and create a new profile (Profiles -> Manage -> +); click on "Output plugins" and from the window "Available plugins" choose "DmxRat". Give the profile as many channels as you want, up to 512.
# Create a new sequence using the profile you just created. Connect a DMX device to your USB2DMX. Using the "Test channels" feature of Vixen, select all channels and raise and lower the channel intensity. Your DMX device should respond accordingly. The USB LED should flicker dimly.

=== Troubleshooting ===
* In development, the most frequent problem encountered was with the USB2DMX working up to the point of driving DMX devices, when it failed. This problem was easily fixed by unplugging the USB cable from the PC and plugging it into another USB port on the PC. Once the "ding-dong" was heard, the device always worked thereafter. If necessary, the USB cable can be moved back to the first USB port with no problem.

== Testing ==
The USB2DMX has been tested successfully with the following products:

# REN48LSD
# JEC PIXEL
# American DJ PocketScan
# Lynx SSR4/DMX

[[Category:DMX]]
[[Category:DIYC Index]]

Solid State Relays

2011-10-25T11:43:18Z

LabRat: /* Designs with detailed information */

== Overview ==
A Solid State Relay, or SSR, is an electronic device that uses low voltage input to switch high voltage on or off. It is used in Christmas displays to allow the controller to switch the lights on and off. This article will show one who is not familiar with the device a basic overview of how it works.

There are two types of SSRs, AC SSRs (the most common) and DC SSRs. As most Xmas lights are AC powered (110VAC or 24 VAC), DIYC members will use a AC Power SSR to switch or dimm the lights.

For specific requirements (Low Voltage LED MR16 spots and halloween devices) a DC SSR is recommended.

[[Image:SSROZ 2.5a (small).jpg]]

== Circuit Diagram ==

A generic [http://computerchristmas.com/christmas/link-how_to/HowToId-7/How_to_build_a_triac_switching_unit_SSR SSR circuit diagram] is available for download. The SSR depicted in the above schematic is good for controlling resistive loads (lights, resistors). The SSR design for controlling inductive loads (motors, solenoids, etc) is more complicated, and can be found at other sites on the Internet.

== Components ==
There are a few basic components that make up a Solid State Relay.
=== Triac ===
A Triac is a semiconductor device which perfoms the actual switching of the High Voltage current. It is usually in a TO-220 package with three pins.
=== Optocoupler ===
The Optocoupler is a device that helps to keep high voltages out of the control board and computer. It consists of a small LED that is optically coupled to an sensor circuit. The controller powers the LED, which causes the sensor circuit to send power to the Triac. Because there is no electrical path from the controller to the High Voltage, the risk of damage is significantly reduced.
=== Fuse ===
The fuse is another safety device used in many designs to limit the flow of current through the board. It will blow out if an unsafe amount of current passes through it, preventing damage to the board or a fire.
=== Resistors ===
Solid State Relays also have resistors to limit the flow of current through certain components. The value of the resistor can be determined based on the instructions at [http://simpleio.com/design/triacout/AppTriacOutGateResistor.asp SimpleIO]
==Wiki Links==
[[4 Channel SSR Parts List]] Sean Bowf Coop Board 
[[4 Channel SSROZ Assembly Instructions]]

== Designs with detailed information ==
*[http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=4_Channel_DCSSR_Assembly_Instructions John Wilson's DC SSR 4 Channel]
*[http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=SSRez Chris and John's SSRez 4 Channel]
*[http://computerchristmas.com/?link=how_to&HowToId=68 Sean Bowf Standard 4-Channel]
*[http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=SSRneon Dave's SSRneon 4-Channel]
*[http://computerchristmas.com/?link=how_to&HowToId=7 Robert Stark 4-Channel]
*[http://computerchristmas.com/?link=how_to&HowToId=13 Robert Stark 6-Channel Power Strip]
*[http://computerchristmas.com/?link=how_to&HowToId=9 Robert Stark 12-Channel]
*[http://computerchristmas.com/?link=how_to&HowToId=48 Frank Kostyun 4-Channel]
*[http://computerchristmas.com/?link=how_to&HowToId=65 David Fansler 8-Channel]
*[http://computerchristmas.com/?link=how_to&HowToId=86 Orien Love 4-Channel Enclosure]
*[http://computerchristmas.com/?link=how_to&HowToId=115 Rodney Harris Pod Enclosure]

[[Category:SSR]]
[[Category:DIYC Index]]

Electronics Hardware

2011-09-15T11:49:08Z

LabRat: /* LedTriks */

This page contains links to ChristmasWiki entries relating to electronics hardware. It also has an overview of various types of DIY hardware that works with [[Vixen]] software.

==Links==

[[Hardware Design Guidelines]]- The DIYC community standard for hardware design. It is recommended that you check your electronic device and PCB designs against this standard.

[[Co-Op Boards and Assembly Instructions]]- Assembly instructions and documentation on boards that can be obtained through a DIYC COOP.

[[Comparison of DIY Boards]]- Charts that compare statistics on various COOP boards, including their channel count, cost, and COOP status.

[[Renard Main Page]]- Renard is a simple PIC-Based Light Dimmer Controller for use with Vixen.

[[Solid State Relays]]- Solid State Relays (SSRs) are used for switching of mains-voltage lights in a computerized display.

[[DMX to Grinch/595 convertor]]- How to make your Grinch speak DMX.

[[Olsen 595]]- How to make an Olsen 595 controller at home.

[[DMX ROBO Spot Light]]- How to build a Robotic Full Color Spotlight.

[[Control boards and Contacts]]- list of board designs found on DIYC and contact sources for them.

[[Compatible Serial Adapters]]- list of known serial port adapters that will work with our displays.

==Overview of DIY Hardware Approaches That Work With Vixen==

This section provides information about Do-It-Yourself (DIY) hardware that works with the [[Vixen]] software program. Vixen is a Windows (.NET Framework 2) program that runs on a PC, and is used to create and run light shows that may be synchronized to music. Here is a brief list of the DIY approaches that you can take that will work with Vixen.

===Non-Dimmable Light Controllers===

====SSR Direct Attach====

* Controlled through: Parallel Port
* Documentation: [[Solid State Relays]]

If you need 12 or fewer channels, you can just buy or build SSRs and connect them to the parallel port on your PC, and use them to turn 110VAC light strings (or just plain lamps) on and off (no dimming). These ssrs must be sourced or positive switched. From time to time there are coop buys of SSR boards,but these are usually sinked, and/or parts, to reduce your expense. You could place a couple ULN2803s and use the coop sinked ssrs. For more information on this come over to the forum and/or ask on the LiveChat.

====Kit74====
*Controlled through: Parallel Port

This is a kit with mechanical relays that can be purchased from various places. It is similar to the SSR Direct Attach, although the mechanical relays are noisy and have a limited lifespan. There are probably other similar kits available as well.

====Hill320====
* Controlled through: Parallel Port
* Documentation: http://computerchristmas.com/christmas/link-how_to/HowToId-4/How_To_Build_A_Parallel_Port_Controller_Box

This is a controller originally designed by Hill Robertson http://computerchristmas.com to allow up to 320 channels to be controlled by a PC, and requires an external power supply and SSRs. There isn't any coop board for this design at the moment. It is a more complicated design, and it is not currently recommended for newbies.

====Olsen 595/Grinch====
*Controlled through: Parallel Port
*Documentation: [[The GRINCH Controller]], [[GRINCH Controller Assembly Instructions]]
*Documentation: [[Olsen 595]]

This is a popular controller based on an approach first popularized on the http://computerchristmas.com and/or http://planetchristmas.com forums by Peter Olsen. In its first incarnation it used 8-bit 74HC595 logic chips, often with external buffers, while a later design (Grinch), popularized by Robert Jordan, uses 16-bit chips specialized for this use. There are coop boards available for both of these designs. These coop boards need external power supplies, and work with external (coop) SSR boards to control AC lighting.

There are some variations of this approach that support dimming, but they are not as popular and there aren't any coop boards available. However, using a [[Ren-C]] board can add dimming capability to a 595 or Grinch, which causes the board to operate as a Renard board. There is also an option available to run a Grinch or 595 controller from DMX with full dimming capability [[DMX_to_Grinch/595_convertor | HERE]].

The Grinch board is a good choice if you need more than 12 channels but want a board that is simple to build. It doesn't use very many parts, and is easy to assemble.

===Dimmable Light Controllers===
====Firegod====
*Controlled through : Serial Port
*Documentation: [[Firegod]]

This is a modular system that supports 32 to 128 channels per serial port, in increments of 32 channels, with 100 levels of dimming (using pulse width modulation - PWM). It consists of a host controller module and one to four field modules. The SSRs are not included on these boards, and must be provided separately. The interface to this system is RS-232. This system is available on a coop basis from time to time, with the kits including the boards, the parts, and pre-programmed microcontroller chips (PICs). This board is intermediate in complexity to build.

====Renard====
*Controlled through: Serial Port
*Documentation: [[Renard]] (general info) and info on [[Renard Main Page | Renard Boards]]

This is another modular system that supports a varying number of channels, depending on baud rate selection. It supports 256 levels of dimming, and can be configured with or without PWM, or for use in DC applications. There are several coop boards available for this system with varying capabilities. It can be a fairly complex system because there are so many options. More information is available at the link listed above.

====Lynx====
*Controlled through: [[DMX]]
*Manual [[LYNX_Controller_Manual]]
The Lynx is a DIY dimmer design that uses [[DMX]] as its protocol but uses standard Cat5 cable for interconnections. It's designed to be similar to the layout of commercially available dimmers (LOR, AL, etc). It is an all in one unit that has its own power supply and SSR's built into it. You connect your DMX Cat5 and plug it in. Lights plug into female cord connections that exit from the board. It allows for a full 256 levels of dimming. The starting address is programmed via vixen. Since it uses the DMX protocol you can run 512 channels of Lynx on one DMX universe at 25ms timming.

In an effort to prevent variations in the design (leading to complications for the newer builders), insure that troubleshooting help can be provided, and keep the total cost as low as possible it is done as a modified coop. All the parts including the PCB and an enclosure are included. The necessary PIC microprocessor will come with the program preloaded so that the builder will not need a PIC programmer. A detailed instruction manual with pictures is included and should allow anyone with basic soldering skills to successfully build the controller.

====Helix====
*Controlled through: Standalone
*Documentation: [[Helix]]

The Helix is a standalone, networkable, modular system that supports a virtually unlimited number of channels. It supports 256 levels of PWM dimming. A Helix system consists of a Helix Main board and up to three Helix Daughter boards. Each Main board and Daughter board can control up to 32 channels. The Main board and basic Daughter board uses the standard four channel SSR boards. There is a 32ch SSR Daughter board that has the SSRs integrated with a basic Daughter board. If more than 128 channels are needed another Helix system can be added to form a Helix Network. These systems stay sync’d via a wireless XBee link. Up to 251 additional Helix systems can be added to the Helix Network as long as they are within radio range of the first Helix system. This allows up to 32,128 channels in a pure Helix system.

Since it is a standalone system, the Helix is a fairly complex system to build and operate. In an effort to minimize the complexity, the design and firmware are configuration controlled by the original system designer, Gregory Bartlett (gmbartlett). The PCBs and preprogrammed EEPROMs are available from him. All PCBs are bare except for the Helix Main Board. Since it requires a surface mount microSD card socket, this part comes presoldered.

===Other Controllers (Signs, Servos, etc.)===
====LedTriks====
*Controlled through: Parallel Port
*Documentation: [[LedTriks Controller Assembly Instructions]] [http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=File:LEDTriks_Wiring_Schematic.pdf LedTriks Wiring Diagram]

This board controls low-voltage LED panel and was designed by Robert Jordan. These panels are typically 16 LEDs high by 48 LEDs wide, for a total of 768 LEDs. Vixen can control up to four panels through one parallel port, and can even display text.

One of the problems with the original LedTriks design was the load placed on the PC to chunk the data out the parallel port. The Triks-C and the PIX-C controllers were created to address these shortcomings.

=====Triks-C=====
*Controlled through: Serial port or USB/serial adapter.
*Documentation: [[TRIKSC]], [http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/images/4/42/TRIKSC_CONTROLLER_v.0.1_manual.pdf Manual in PDF format]

This is a an add-on controller/processor for the LedTriks. The TRIKS-C uses an ATMEL processor to take a LedTriks file and send it out to the LedTriks Controller, via the serial port.

=====PIX-C=====
*Controlled through: Serial port or USB/serial adapter.
*Documentation: [[PIX-C]]

This is an add-on controller/processor for the LedTriks. It is backward compatible with the TRIKS-C, and is based on the Microchip 16F688 processor.

====JEC Pixel Displays====
*Controlled through: [[DMX]]

Pixels are a stand-alone lighting fixture controlled by DMX-512. Each pixel has banks of red, green and blue wide-angle LEDs, currently six of each. Firmware is available in two versions: 3 and 4 channel. 3 channel requires a dmx channel for red, green and blue intensity. Four channel adds master intensity control to the original three.

Pixels require a stiff +12v switching power supply. Each circuit board draws ~ 130 mA at full brightness. Pixels chain together using standard CAT5 networking cable. Per the DMX spec, no more than 32 pixels should be connected together without using an optosplitter / signal buffer.

LED refresh rate is nearly 100 Hz.

More details can be found at http://www.response-box.com/rgblights

Currently in progress is a version of the firmware which will allow the DMX address to be changed in the field. Currently the address is hard-coded.

====rgbLED====
* Controlled through: Serial Port

The RGB LED's will have the ability to make hundreds of colors with a single led. They can be controlled individually, series, or parallel with each other. These are not able to be addressable individually as they have no control onboard. You will have to use DCSSR's, Franks Ren24LV, or a Grinch to turn each channel on and off to get the desired color. Each RGB LED will use 3 channels, 1 for each color. These would give you the ability to make strings out of these to have any color you want. It will also use less power compared to standard mini lights.

More information to follow as I start my testing.

====Color Stick====
* Controlled through: [[DMX]]
* Documentation: [[Color Stick]]

The color stick is an 8-channel RGB display that uses 16 RGB 5050-sized LEDs, two per channel. The color sticks can be connected end-to-end as they pass DMX.

====Kostyun RGB+W Super Strip Flood====
* Documentation: [[Super Strip]]

====RS485 Splitter====
* Documentation: [[RS485 Splitter]]

The RS485 splitter is a 4-port non-isolated splitter, designed for driving the color stick, but useful for driving any RS485 devices, including DMX or Renard.

====F.A.S.T. Finally Affordable Snowfall Tube====
* Documentation: [[FAST Finally Affordable Snowfall Tube]]

=='''Solid State Relays (SSRs)'''==

*Documentation: [[Solid_State_Relays]]
Solid State Relays are stand alone devices that work between a lighting controller and strands of lights or other devices. There are both AC and DC versions.

=='''FM Transmitters & Antennas''' ==

*Documentation: ''this section is under construction''

Almost everyone that builds a system to synchronize their lights to music broadcasts that music on a local FM frequency. This section covers the DIY aspects of FM Transmitters and Antennas.

==Pictures of Various Coop Boards (mostly assembled)==
<gallery caption="Coop Boards (mostly assembled)" widths="150px" heights="150px" perrow="4">

Image:SSROZ 2.5a (small).jpg|[[4_Channel_SSROZ_Assembly_Instructions | SSR (solid state relay)]]
Image:SSRez.jpg|[[SSRez | SSR (solid state relay ez)]]
Image: coop595.jpg|[[64_Channel_Olsen_595_Controller_Assembly_Instructions | 595 Coop Board]]
Image: Coopgrinch.jpg|[[GRINCH_Controller_Assembly_Instructions | Grinch]]
Image: Ren24.jpg|[[24 Channel Renard with SSR Assembly Instructions | Renard by FKostyun: 24 ports with on-board power supply and SSRs]]
Image:Wiki_-_Renard_SS8_Complete.jpg|Renard SS 8
Image:Wiki_-_Renard_SS16_Completed_Board.jpg|Renard SS 16
Image:Wiki_-_Renard_SS24_Completed_Board.jpg|Renard SS 24
Image:xmus.jpg|[[16_Channel_Renard_with_SSRs | Ren16 (xmus)]]
Image:USBtoDMX.jpg|RPM USB to DMX Adapter
Image:DMX4SSR.jpg|RPM DMX4 SSR
Image:DMX16SSR_PCBOARD.JPG|RPM DMX16 SSR
Image:DMX8-DCSSR-Board.jpg|RPM DMX8 DC SSR
Image:Grinch_DMX_Dimmer_V2.jpg|[[DMX_to_Grinch/595_convertor |RPM Grinch DMX Dimming Adapter]]
Image:DMX16SSR_Completed.JPG|RPM DMX16 DC SSR
Image:Ren48LSD-v3c-Construction-0.png|[[Ren48LSDv3c | Ren48LSD v3c]]
Image:Ren-w-2009.jpg|[[Renard Wireless Converter | Renard Wireless Converter]]

</gallery>

==Commercial Products Supported By Vixen==

===Digital Input/Output Cards===

*[[PCI-DIO-96]] by National Instruments
*[http://www.elexol.com/IO_Modules/USB_IO_24.php Elexol USB I/O 24] - ([http://lights.onthefive.com/vixen-plugins Plugin] by Jonathon Reinhart)
*[http://www.elexol.com/IO_Modules/Ether_IO_24.php Elexol Ether I/O 24] - ([http://lights.onthefive.com/vixen-plugins Plugin] by Jonathon Reinhart)

[[Category:DIYC Home]]
[[Category:DIYC Hardware]]
[[Category:DIYC Controllers]]
[[Category:General Info]]
[[Category:DIYC Index]]

Electronics Hardware

2011-09-15T11:40:17Z

LabRat: /* Triks-C */

This page contains links to ChristmasWiki entries relating to electronics hardware. It also has an overview of various types of DIY hardware that works with [[Vixen]] software.

==Links==

[[Hardware Design Guidelines]]- The DIYC community standard for hardware design. It is recommended that you check your electronic device and PCB designs against this standard.

[[Co-Op Boards and Assembly Instructions]]- Assembly instructions and documentation on boards that can be obtained through a DIYC COOP.

[[Comparison of DIY Boards]]- Charts that compare statistics on various COOP boards, including their channel count, cost, and COOP status.

[[Renard Main Page]]- Renard is a simple PIC-Based Light Dimmer Controller for use with Vixen.

[[Solid State Relays]]- Solid State Relays (SSRs) are used for switching of mains-voltage lights in a computerized display.

[[DMX to Grinch/595 convertor]]- How to make your Grinch speak DMX.

[[Olsen 595]]- How to make an Olsen 595 controller at home.

[[DMX ROBO Spot Light]]- How to build a Robotic Full Color Spotlight.

[[Control boards and Contacts]]- list of board designs found on DIYC and contact sources for them.

[[Compatible Serial Adapters]]- list of known serial port adapters that will work with our displays.

==Overview of DIY Hardware Approaches That Work With Vixen==

This section provides information about Do-It-Yourself (DIY) hardware that works with the [[Vixen]] software program. Vixen is a Windows (.NET Framework 2) program that runs on a PC, and is used to create and run light shows that may be synchronized to music. Here is a brief list of the DIY approaches that you can take that will work with Vixen.

===Non-Dimmable Light Controllers===

====SSR Direct Attach====

* Controlled through: Parallel Port
* Documentation: [[Solid State Relays]]

If you need 12 or fewer channels, you can just buy or build SSRs and connect them to the parallel port on your PC, and use them to turn 110VAC light strings (or just plain lamps) on and off (no dimming). These ssrs must be sourced or positive switched. From time to time there are coop buys of SSR boards,but these are usually sinked, and/or parts, to reduce your expense. You could place a couple ULN2803s and use the coop sinked ssrs. For more information on this come over to the forum and/or ask on the LiveChat.

====Kit74====
*Controlled through: Parallel Port

This is a kit with mechanical relays that can be purchased from various places. It is similar to the SSR Direct Attach, although the mechanical relays are noisy and have a limited lifespan. There are probably other similar kits available as well.

====Hill320====
* Controlled through: Parallel Port
* Documentation: http://computerchristmas.com/christmas/link-how_to/HowToId-4/How_To_Build_A_Parallel_Port_Controller_Box

This is a controller originally designed by Hill Robertson http://computerchristmas.com to allow up to 320 channels to be controlled by a PC, and requires an external power supply and SSRs. There isn't any coop board for this design at the moment. It is a more complicated design, and it is not currently recommended for newbies.

====Olsen 595/Grinch====
*Controlled through: Parallel Port
*Documentation: [[The GRINCH Controller]], [[GRINCH Controller Assembly Instructions]]
*Documentation: [[Olsen 595]]

This is a popular controller based on an approach first popularized on the http://computerchristmas.com and/or http://planetchristmas.com forums by Peter Olsen. In its first incarnation it used 8-bit 74HC595 logic chips, often with external buffers, while a later design (Grinch), popularized by Robert Jordan, uses 16-bit chips specialized for this use. There are coop boards available for both of these designs. These coop boards need external power supplies, and work with external (coop) SSR boards to control AC lighting.

There are some variations of this approach that support dimming, but they are not as popular and there aren't any coop boards available. However, using a [[Ren-C]] board can add dimming capability to a 595 or Grinch, which causes the board to operate as a Renard board. There is also an option available to run a Grinch or 595 controller from DMX with full dimming capability [[DMX_to_Grinch/595_convertor | HERE]].

The Grinch board is a good choice if you need more than 12 channels but want a board that is simple to build. It doesn't use very many parts, and is easy to assemble.

===Dimmable Light Controllers===
====Firegod====
*Controlled through : Serial Port
*Documentation: [[Firegod]]

This is a modular system that supports 32 to 128 channels per serial port, in increments of 32 channels, with 100 levels of dimming (using pulse width modulation - PWM). It consists of a host controller module and one to four field modules. The SSRs are not included on these boards, and must be provided separately. The interface to this system is RS-232. This system is available on a coop basis from time to time, with the kits including the boards, the parts, and pre-programmed microcontroller chips (PICs). This board is intermediate in complexity to build.

====Renard====
*Controlled through: Serial Port
*Documentation: [[Renard]] (general info) and info on [[Renard Main Page | Renard Boards]]

This is another modular system that supports a varying number of channels, depending on baud rate selection. It supports 256 levels of dimming, and can be configured with or without PWM, or for use in DC applications. There are several coop boards available for this system with varying capabilities. It can be a fairly complex system because there are so many options. More information is available at the link listed above.

====Lynx====
*Controlled through: [[DMX]]
*Manual [[LYNX_Controller_Manual]]
The Lynx is a DIY dimmer design that uses [[DMX]] as its protocol but uses standard Cat5 cable for interconnections. It's designed to be similar to the layout of commercially available dimmers (LOR, AL, etc). It is an all in one unit that has its own power supply and SSR's built into it. You connect your DMX Cat5 and plug it in. Lights plug into female cord connections that exit from the board. It allows for a full 256 levels of dimming. The starting address is programmed via vixen. Since it uses the DMX protocol you can run 512 channels of Lynx on one DMX universe at 25ms timming.

In an effort to prevent variations in the design (leading to complications for the newer builders), insure that troubleshooting help can be provided, and keep the total cost as low as possible it is done as a modified coop. All the parts including the PCB and an enclosure are included. The necessary PIC microprocessor will come with the program preloaded so that the builder will not need a PIC programmer. A detailed instruction manual with pictures is included and should allow anyone with basic soldering skills to successfully build the controller.

====Helix====
*Controlled through: Standalone
*Documentation: [[Helix]]

The Helix is a standalone, networkable, modular system that supports a virtually unlimited number of channels. It supports 256 levels of PWM dimming. A Helix system consists of a Helix Main board and up to three Helix Daughter boards. Each Main board and Daughter board can control up to 32 channels. The Main board and basic Daughter board uses the standard four channel SSR boards. There is a 32ch SSR Daughter board that has the SSRs integrated with a basic Daughter board. If more than 128 channels are needed another Helix system can be added to form a Helix Network. These systems stay sync’d via a wireless XBee link. Up to 251 additional Helix systems can be added to the Helix Network as long as they are within radio range of the first Helix system. This allows up to 32,128 channels in a pure Helix system.

Since it is a standalone system, the Helix is a fairly complex system to build and operate. In an effort to minimize the complexity, the design and firmware are configuration controlled by the original system designer, Gregory Bartlett (gmbartlett). The PCBs and preprogrammed EEPROMs are available from him. All PCBs are bare except for the Helix Main Board. Since it requires a surface mount microSD card socket, this part comes presoldered.

===Other Controllers (Signs, Servos, etc.)===
====LedTriks====
*Controlled through: Parallel Port
*Documentation: [[LedTriks Controller Assembly Instructions]] [http://www.christmasinshirley.com/wiki/images/8/8e/LEDTriks_Wiring_Schematic.pdf LedTriks Wiring Diagram]

This board controls low-voltage LED panel and was designed by Robert Jordan. These panels are typically 16 LEDs high by 48 LEDs wide, for a total of 768 LEDs. Vixen can control up to four panels through one parallel port, and can even display text.

One of the problems with the original LedTriks design was the load placed on the PC to chunk the data out the parallel port. The Triks-C and the PIX-C controllers were created to address these shortcomings.

=====Triks-C=====
*Controlled through: Serial port or USB/serial adapter.
*Documentation: [[TRIKSC]], [http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/images/4/42/TRIKSC_CONTROLLER_v.0.1_manual.pdf Manual in PDF format]

This is a an add-on controller/processor for the LedTriks. The TRIKS-C uses an ATMEL processor to take a LedTriks file and send it out to the LedTriks Controller, via the serial port.

=====PIX-C=====
*Controlled through: Serial port or USB/serial adapter.
*Documentation: [[PIX-C]]

This is an add-on controller/processor for the LedTriks. It is backward compatible with the TRIKS-C, and is based on the Microchip 16F688 processor.

====JEC Pixel Displays====
*Controlled through: [[DMX]]

Pixels are a stand-alone lighting fixture controlled by DMX-512. Each pixel has banks of red, green and blue wide-angle LEDs, currently six of each. Firmware is available in two versions: 3 and 4 channel. 3 channel requires a dmx channel for red, green and blue intensity. Four channel adds master intensity control to the original three.

Pixels require a stiff +12v switching power supply. Each circuit board draws ~ 130 mA at full brightness. Pixels chain together using standard CAT5 networking cable. Per the DMX spec, no more than 32 pixels should be connected together without using an optosplitter / signal buffer.

LED refresh rate is nearly 100 Hz.

More details can be found at http://www.response-box.com/rgblights

Currently in progress is a version of the firmware which will allow the DMX address to be changed in the field. Currently the address is hard-coded.

====rgbLED====
* Controlled through: Serial Port

The RGB LED's will have the ability to make hundreds of colors with a single led. They can be controlled individually, series, or parallel with each other. These are not able to be addressable individually as they have no control onboard. You will have to use DCSSR's, Franks Ren24LV, or a Grinch to turn each channel on and off to get the desired color. Each RGB LED will use 3 channels, 1 for each color. These would give you the ability to make strings out of these to have any color you want. It will also use less power compared to standard mini lights.

More information to follow as I start my testing.

====Color Stick====
* Controlled through: [[DMX]]
* Documentation: [[Color Stick]]

The color stick is an 8-channel RGB display that uses 16 RGB 5050-sized LEDs, two per channel. The color sticks can be connected end-to-end as they pass DMX.

====Kostyun RGB+W Super Strip Flood====
* Documentation: [[Super Strip]]

====RS485 Splitter====
* Documentation: [[RS485 Splitter]]

The RS485 splitter is a 4-port non-isolated splitter, designed for driving the color stick, but useful for driving any RS485 devices, including DMX or Renard.

====F.A.S.T. Finally Affordable Snowfall Tube====
* Documentation: [[FAST Finally Affordable Snowfall Tube]]

=='''Solid State Relays (SSRs)'''==

*Documentation: [[Solid_State_Relays]]
Solid State Relays are stand alone devices that work between a lighting controller and strands of lights or other devices. There are both AC and DC versions.

=='''FM Transmitters & Antennas''' ==

*Documentation: ''this section is under construction''

Almost everyone that builds a system to synchronize their lights to music broadcasts that music on a local FM frequency. This section covers the DIY aspects of FM Transmitters and Antennas.

==Pictures of Various Coop Boards (mostly assembled)==
<gallery caption="Coop Boards (mostly assembled)" widths="150px" heights="150px" perrow="4">

Image:SSROZ 2.5a (small).jpg|[[4_Channel_SSROZ_Assembly_Instructions | SSR (solid state relay)]]
Image:SSRez.jpg|[[SSRez | SSR (solid state relay ez)]]
Image: coop595.jpg|[[64_Channel_Olsen_595_Controller_Assembly_Instructions | 595 Coop Board]]
Image: Coopgrinch.jpg|[[GRINCH_Controller_Assembly_Instructions | Grinch]]
Image: Ren24.jpg|[[24 Channel Renard with SSR Assembly Instructions | Renard by FKostyun: 24 ports with on-board power supply and SSRs]]
Image:Wiki_-_Renard_SS8_Complete.jpg|Renard SS 8
Image:Wiki_-_Renard_SS16_Completed_Board.jpg|Renard SS 16
Image:Wiki_-_Renard_SS24_Completed_Board.jpg|Renard SS 24
Image:xmus.jpg|[[16_Channel_Renard_with_SSRs | Ren16 (xmus)]]
Image:USBtoDMX.jpg|RPM USB to DMX Adapter
Image:DMX4SSR.jpg|RPM DMX4 SSR
Image:DMX16SSR_PCBOARD.JPG|RPM DMX16 SSR
Image:DMX8-DCSSR-Board.jpg|RPM DMX8 DC SSR
Image:Grinch_DMX_Dimmer_V2.jpg|[[DMX_to_Grinch/595_convertor |RPM Grinch DMX Dimming Adapter]]
Image:DMX16SSR_Completed.JPG|RPM DMX16 DC SSR
Image:Ren48LSD-v3c-Construction-0.png|[[Ren48LSDv3c | Ren48LSD v3c]]
Image:Ren-w-2009.jpg|[[Renard Wireless Converter | Renard Wireless Converter]]

</gallery>

==Commercial Products Supported By Vixen==

===Digital Input/Output Cards===

*[[PCI-DIO-96]] by National Instruments
*[http://www.elexol.com/IO_Modules/USB_IO_24.php Elexol USB I/O 24] - ([http://lights.onthefive.com/vixen-plugins Plugin] by Jonathon Reinhart)
*[http://www.elexol.com/IO_Modules/Ether_IO_24.php Elexol Ether I/O 24] - ([http://lights.onthefive.com/vixen-plugins Plugin] by Jonathon Reinhart)

[[Category:DIYC Home]]
[[Category:DIYC Hardware]]
[[Category:DIYC Controllers]]
[[Category:General Info]]
[[Category:DIYC Index]]

USB2DMX

2011-09-12T02:41:25Z

LabRat:

= USB2DMX (aka YADA) =
[[Image:YADA_STEP_14_DONE.jpg|200px|thumb|right]]
The USB2DMX (which also goes by the name Yet Another DMX Adapter, or YADA), is a build-it-yourself project that provides connectivity between DMX controllers and the Vixen 2.1 lighting software. It was designed by Andrew Williams (LabRat) of Ottawa, Canada, in the spring and summer of 2010 and released to the community in September 2010.

Unlike other adapters in the do-it-yourself Christmas lights community, the USB2DMX is not plug compatible with the ENTTEC USB Pro – conversely, it costs almost 50 percent less than other adapters. This is achieved because of a one-chip design, where the main CPU handles both the USB input and the DMX output, simultaneously. Other designs, including the ENTTEC USB Pro, have one chipset handle the USB input and another chipset handle the DMX output.

Andrew's design leverages the work of Microchip Technology Inc. in using its chips for USB communications. The USB2DMX uses the PIC18F2455 and a handful of components to communicate between the user's PC running Vixen 2.1 and DMX controllers. The design supports full electrical isolation so that the PC is not directly connected to the controllers, insuring safety at both ends of the circuit.

In addition to not being ENTTEC Pro plug compatible, there are other compromises that must be made to achieve the USB2DMX's low cost: the device only works (as of its initial release) with the Vixen software; a special USB driver must be installed in the PC; the user is required to take a two-step process to burn the firmware into the microprocessor, and the user needs to make certain that three files are included in the Vixen plug-ins folder.

== Schematic & Board Files ==

=== Schematics ===

*[[File:Usb2Dmx_v2.2.pdf]]
*[[File:Usb2Dmx_v2_4.pdf]]

=== Gerbers ===

[http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/dynamics/showentry.php?e=102 Gerbers for v2.4 (in the FILE LIBRARY)]

== Board building instructions ==
Step 0 - Bill of Materials (BOM)

[http://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=ddc109894e $26.00 at Mouser]

[[Image:STEP_00_BOM.png|200px]]

Step 1 - Install 470 (R1, R4, R5, R6) ohm resistors

[[Image:YADA_STEP_01.jpg|200px]]

Step 2 - Install 10k (R7), 22k (R3), and 100 (R2) ohm resistors

[[Image:STEP_02.jpg|200px]]

Step 3 - Install 0.1 (C2,C4) uf capacitors

[[Image:YADA_STEP_03.jpg|200px]]

Step 4 - Install sockets (note PIN 1 orientation)

[[Image:YADA_STEP_04.jpg|200px]]

Step 5 - Install 0.22 (C1) uf capacitor

[[Image:YADA_STEP_05.jpg|200px]]

Step 6 - Install XTAL - 20Mhz resonator

[[Image:YADA_STEP_06.jpg|200px]]

Step 7 - Bend lead on ferrite bead (L1), install vertically.

[[Image:YADA_STEP_07a.jpg|100px]] [[Image:YADA_STEP_07.jpg|200px]]

Step 8 - Install LEDs (note FLAT edge)

[[Image:YADA_STEP_08.jpg|200px]]

Step 9 - Install PROG (Program) and RST (Reset) switches

[[Image:YADA_STEP_09.jpg|200px]]

Step 10 - Install DC/DC converter (power isolation) Note PIN 1 orientation

[[Image:YADA_STEP_10.jpg|200px]] [[Image:YADA_STEP_10a.jpg|200px]]

Step 11 - Install 10 uf (C3) capacitor (note polarity!!)

[[Image:YADA_STEP_11.jpg|200px]]

Step 12 - USB and RJ45 jacks(may not appear 100% as shown here)

[[Image:YADA_STEP_12.jpg|200px]]

Step 13 - Install programmed PIC 18F2455(U1), SN75179BP (RS485), optoisolator (6N137)

[[Image:YADA_STEP_13.jpg|200px]]

== Software and firmware ==

=== Firmware Images ===
Hex files and source code to be uploaded

=== Setup instructions ===
# Download the bootloader and the PIC firmware here.
# Using your favorite Microchip programming device (i.e.: Microchip PICkit2 or PICkit3), load the bootloader software into the PIC 18f2455.
# Remove the 18f2455 from the programming device and install it into your USB2DMX device.
# Download the Microchip USB software package: [http://ww1.microchip.com/downloads/en/DeviceDoc/MCHPFSUSB_Setup_v1.3.exe].
# Unzip the package, extract the application and install MCHPFSUSB_Setup_v1.3.exe as you would any Windows application. The software expects to install itself in the c: directory as c:\MCHPFSUSB\ ... if at all possible, please allow the installation here, as it will make the rest of these instructions easier to understand.
# Connect your USB2DMX to your PC using a USB-A/USB-B cable. There will be no "ding-dong" sound (called "USB enunciation") at this time. The DMX LED will be lit.
# The Windows operating system on the PC will acknowledge that a new piece of hardware has been attached to the computer, that a driver is not present and offer you a driver-installer application. (In the event this does not happen, go to Control Panel -> Add hardware and double-click.)
# The Add Hardware Wizard might need some help in adding the USB2DMX: your USB2DMX is probably not going to be listed in "The following hardware is already installed on your computer" list, so scroll to the end and choose "Add a new hardware device."
# In the next window of the wizard, choose "Install the hardware that I manually selected from a list."
# Choose "Custom USB devices" from the list.
# Click on "Microchip Custom USB Device" and then click on the "Have disk" button. Click on the "Browse" button and navigate to c:\MCHPFSUSB\Pc\MCHPUSB Driver\Release and click OK.
# Click "Next" twice; the Wizard should install the driver and you should hear the "ding-dong" of the PC recognizing the USB2DMX on the USB bus.
# Launch the PICDEM FS USB Demo Tool at c:\MCHPFSUSB\Pc\Pdfsusb\PDFUSB
# Choose the "Microchip Custom USB Device" from the pull-down menu and click on the "Load HEX file" menu, navigating to the Yada_v2 file you downloaded in Step 1.
# The PICDEM FS USB Demo Tool will throw up an error window at this point; choose "Yes."
# Push the "Program Device" button and then quit PICDEM FS USB Demo Tool.
# At this point, both the PWR and DMX lights should be lit on the USB2DMX device.
# Go to the directory c:\MCHPFSUSB\Pc\Mpusbapi\Dll\Borland_C\ and copy the file mpusbapi.dll to your Vixen 2.1 plug-ins directory.
# Download the Vixen plugins from here; unzip the files and copy them to your Vixen 2.1 plug-ins directory.
# Your Vixen plug-ins directory should have at least these three files: Vixen_DmxRat.dll, Vixen_DmxRat.pdb, mpusbapi.dll.
# Launch Vixen 2.1 and create a new profile (Profiles -> Manage -> +); click on "Output plugins" and from the window "Available plugins" choose "DmxRat". Give the profile as many channels as you want, up to 512.
# Create a new sequence using the profile you just created. Connect a DMX device to your USB2DMX. Using the "Test channels" feature of Vixen, select all channels and raise and lower the channel intensity. Your DMX device should respond accordingly. The USB LED should flicker dimly.

=== Troubleshooting ===
* In development, the most frequent problem encountered was with the USB2DMX working up to the point of driving DMX devices, when it failed. This problem was easily fixed by unplugging the USB cable from the PC and plugging it into another USB port on the PC. Once the "ding-dong" was heard, the device always worked thereafter. If necessary, the USB cable can be moved back to the first USB port with no problem.

== Testing ==
The USB2DMX has been tested successfully with the following products:

# REN48LSD
# JEC PIXEL
# American DJ PocketScan
# Lynx SSR4/DMX

[[Category:DMX]]
[[Category:DIYC Index]]

PIX-C

2011-01-17T13:34:05Z

LabRat:

== Background ==
[[Image:Pix-c.jpg|200px|right]]
In the beginning the world smelled mostly of Nutmeg, and mulled cider. At that time Robert Jordan had an idea to create a DIY LED sign that could easily be made by the home Blinky Enthusiast. He called it LEDTRIKS and he showed it to the masses, and they thought it was good. In time however the world grew tired of Nutmeg and craved the spiceness of Gingerbread and TimW entered the scene. He designed a small controller that could offload the repetative task of refreshing the LED panel from the PC. He called it TRICKS-C and he showed it to the masses, and they thought it was good. While sitting looking at his LED panel Andrew Williams(no relation to TimW) theorized that he should be able to build a controller compatible with TRICKS-C, without the need to learn a new micro, purchase new tools, or install a new tool-chain. Entitled the PIX-C this controller will duplicate the functionality of the TRICKS-C, but use only parts already used on a typical RENARD controller. Now if only the world would smell like Candy Canes.

== The Files ==

=== Schematic ===

[[File:Pix-C_v2_2_Schematic.pdf]]

=== Bill of Materials ===

[http://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=68dc1141c4 Mouser Quick Order BOM]

[[Image:PIX-C_BOM.jpg|200px]]

'''Note:''' Markings on the PCB SN75176BP are '''WRONG'''. The correct part is SN75179BP.
This is listed correctly in the visual BOM above, and in the Mouser project.

=== Gerbers ===

[http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/dynamics/showentry.php?e=103 ZIP Archive in the FILE LIBRARY]

=== Firmware ===

Main program ASM file [[File:Pix-c.asm]].

Link to the entire ZIP archive. [http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/dynamics/showentry.php?e=104 PIX-C ZIP Archive]

== Build Instructions ==

Step 1 - Install 470 (R3,R8) ohm resistors

[[Image:PIX-C_STEP_01.jpg|200px]]

Step 2 - Install 1K (R1,R2,R4) ohm resistors

[[Image:PIX-C_STEP_02.jpg|200px]]

Step 3 - Install 1N5239B diode (NOTE: Orientation!)

[[Image:PIX-C_STEP_03.jpg|200px]]

Step 4 - Install 0.1 uf (C1,C3) capacitors

[[Image:PIX-C_STEP_04.jpg|200px]]

Step 5 - Install DIP sockets (NOTE: Notch/Pin 1 orientation)

[[Image:PIX-C_STEP_05.jpg|200px]]

Step 6 - Install LEDs (may not appear as shown)

[[Image:PIX-C_STEP_06.jpg|200px]]

Step 7 - Install RJ45 jacks (may not appear exactly as shown)

[[Image:PIX-C_STEP_07.jpg|200px]]

Step 8 - Install 10 uf (C2) capacitor (NOTE: Polarity !!)

[[Image:PIX-C_STEP_08.jpg|200px]]

Last Step - insert the RS485, and PIC chips into their sockets.

*NOTE: PIC should be programmed in advance. Do not attempt to use the "In Circuit Programming Header" as there is insufficient clearance to do so.

== Controlling the PIX-C ==

The PIX-C is backwards compatible with the TRICKS-C and is thus controlled by the DOS LTC.exe program.

The following additional commands were added to LTC.exe version 11

'''#P_PROGRAM''' - used to program the panel addres into the PIX-C.
'''#P_FSnXX''' - tell panel 'n' to display ROM image XX (0-7 ROM, 8&9 EPROM)
'''#P_FWnXX''' - tell panel 'n' to store current image buffer at EEPROM location X (8/9)

===Power connections===
are shown in the following diagram.

[[Image:PIX-C_Power.jpg|200px]]

PIX-C

2010-09-08T23:40:30Z

LabRat: /* Firmware */

== Background ==
[[Image:Pix-c.jpg|200px|right]]
In the beginning the world smelled mostly of Nutmeg, and mulled cider. At that time Robert Jordan had an idea to create a DIY LED sign that could easily be made by the home Blinky Enthusiast. He called it LEDTRIKS and he showed it to the masses, and they thought it was good. In time however the world grew tired of Nutmeg and craved the spiceness of Gingerbread and TimW entered the scene. He designed a small controller that could offload the repetative task of refreshing the LED panel from the PC. He called it TRICKS-C and he showed it to the masses, and they thought it was good. While sitting looking at his LED panel Andrew Williams(no relation to TimW) theorized that he should be able to build a controller compatible with TRICKS-C, without the need to learn a new micro, purchase new tools, or install a new tool-chain. Entitled the PIX-C this controller will duplicate the functionality of the TRICKS-C, but use only parts already used on a typical RENARD controller. Now if only the world would smell like Candy Canes.

== The Files ==

=== Schematic ===

[[File:Pix-C_v2_2_Schematic.pdf]]

=== Bill of Materials ===

[http://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=68dc1141c4 Mouser Quick Order BOM]

[[Image:PIX-C_BOM.jpg|200px]]

'''Note:''' Markings on the PCB SN75176BP are '''WRONG'''. The correct part is SN75179BP.
This is listed correctly in the visual BOM above, and in the Mouser project.

=== Gerbers ===

[http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/dynamics/showentry.php?e=103 ZIP Archive in the FILE LIBRARY]

=== Firmware ===

Main program ASM file [[File:Pix-c.asm]].

Link to the entire ZIP archive. [http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/dynamics/showentry.php?e=104 PIX-C ZIP Archive]

== Build Instructions ==

Step 1 - Install 470 (R3,R8) ohm resistors

[[Image:PIX-C_STEP_01.jpg|200px]]

Step 2 - Install 1K (R1,R2,R4) ohm resistors

[[Image:PIX-C_STEP_02.jpg|200px]]

Step 3 - Install 1N5139B diode (NOTE: Orientation!)

[[Image:PIX-C_STEP_03.jpg|200px]]

Step 4 - Install 0.1 uf (C1,C3) capacitors

[[Image:PIX-C_STEP_04.jpg|200px]]

Step 5 - Install DIP sockets (NOTE: Notch/Pin 1 orientation)

[[Image:PIX-C_STEP_05.jpg|200px]]

Step 6 - Install LEDs (may not appear as shown)

[[Image:PIX-C_STEP_06.jpg|200px]]

Step 7 - Install RJ45 jacks (may not appear exactly as shown)

[[Image:PIX-C_STEP_07.jpg|200px]]

Step 8 - Install 10 uf (C2) capacitor (NOTE: Polarity !!)

[[Image:PIX-C_STEP_08.jpg|200px]]

Last Step - insert the RS485, and PIC chips into their sockets.

*NOTE: PIC should be programmed in advance. Do not attempt to use the "In Circuit Programming Header" as there is insufficient clearance to do so.

== Controlling the PIX-C ==

The PIX-C is backwards compatible with the TRICKS-C and is thus controlled by the DOS LTC.exe program.

The following additional commands were added to LTC.exe version 11

'''#P_PROGRAM''' - used to program the panel addres into the PIX-C.
'''#P_FSnXX''' - tell panel 'n' to display ROM image XX (0-7 ROM, 8&9 EPROM)
'''#P_FWnXX''' - tell panel 'n' to store current image buffer at EEPROM location X (8/9)

===Power connections===
are shown in the following diagram.

[[Image:PIX-C_Power.jpg|200px]]

File:Pix-c.asm

2010-09-08T23:32:18Z

LabRat: Version 3 - Initial Public Release of the PIX-C firmware

Version 3 - Initial Public Release of the PIX-C firmware

PIX-C

2010-09-08T23:31:19Z

LabRat: /* Controlling the PIX-C */

== Background ==
[[Image:Pix-c.jpg|200px|right]]
In the beginning the world smelled mostly of Nutmeg, and mulled cider. At that time Robert Jordan had an idea to create a DIY LED sign that could easily be made by the home Blinky Enthusiast. He called it LEDTRIKS and he showed it to the masses, and they thought it was good. In time however the world grew tired of Nutmeg and craved the spiceness of Gingerbread and TimW entered the scene. He designed a small controller that could offload the repetative task of refreshing the LED panel from the PC. He called it TRICKS-C and he showed it to the masses, and they thought it was good. While sitting looking at his LED panel Andrew Williams(no relation to TimW) theorized that he should be able to build a controller compatible with TRICKS-C, without the need to learn a new micro, purchase new tools, or install a new tool-chain. Entitled the PIX-C this controller will duplicate the functionality of the TRICKS-C, but use only parts already used on a typical RENARD controller. Now if only the world would smell like Candy Canes.

== The Files ==

=== Schematic ===

[[File:Pix-C_v2_2_Schematic.pdf]]

=== Bill of Materials ===

[http://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=68dc1141c4 Mouser Quick Order BOM]

[[Image:PIX-C_BOM.jpg|200px]]

'''Note:''' Markings on the PCB SN75176BP are '''WRONG'''. The correct part is SN75179BP.
This is listed correctly in the visual BOM above, and in the Mouser project.

=== Gerbers ===

[http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/dynamics/showentry.php?e=103 ZIP Archive in the FILE LIBRARY]

=== Firmware ===

HEX file to be uploaded.

== Build Instructions ==

Step 1 - Install 470 (R3,R8) ohm resistors

[[Image:PIX-C_STEP_01.jpg|200px]]

Step 2 - Install 1K (R1,R2,R4) ohm resistors

[[Image:PIX-C_STEP_02.jpg|200px]]

Step 3 - Install 1N5139B diode (NOTE: Orientation!)

[[Image:PIX-C_STEP_03.jpg|200px]]

Step 4 - Install 0.1 uf (C1,C3) capacitors

[[Image:PIX-C_STEP_04.jpg|200px]]

Step 5 - Install DIP sockets (NOTE: Notch/Pin 1 orientation)

[[Image:PIX-C_STEP_05.jpg|200px]]

Step 6 - Install LEDs (may not appear as shown)

[[Image:PIX-C_STEP_06.jpg|200px]]

Step 7 - Install RJ45 jacks (may not appear exactly as shown)

[[Image:PIX-C_STEP_07.jpg|200px]]

Step 8 - Install 10 uf (C2) capacitor (NOTE: Polarity !!)

[[Image:PIX-C_STEP_08.jpg|200px]]

Last Step - insert the RS485, and PIC chips into their sockets.

*NOTE: PIC should be programmed in advance. Do not attempt to use the "In Circuit Programming Header" as there is insufficient clearance to do so.

== Controlling the PIX-C ==

The PIX-C is backwards compatible with the TRICKS-C and is thus controlled by the DOS LTC.exe program.

The following additional commands were added to LTC.exe version 11

'''#P_PROGRAM''' - used to program the panel addres into the PIX-C.
'''#P_FSnXX''' - tell panel 'n' to display ROM image XX (0-7 ROM, 8&9 EPROM)
'''#P_FWnXX''' - tell panel 'n' to store current image buffer at EEPROM location X (8/9)

===Power connections===
are shown in the following diagram.

[[Image:PIX-C_Power.jpg|200px]]

PIX-C

2010-09-08T18:15:36Z

LabRat: /* Controlling the PIX-C */

== Background ==
[[Image:Pix-c.jpg|200px|right]]
In the beginning the world smelled mostly of Nutmeg, and mulled cider. At that time Robert Jordan had an idea to create a DIY LED sign that could easily be made by the home Blinky Enthusiast. He called it LEDTRIKS and he showed it to the masses, and they thought it was good. In time however the world grew tired of Nutmeg and craved the spiceness of Gingerbread and TimW entered the scene. He designed a small controller that could offload the repetative task of refreshing the LED panel from the PC. He called it TRICKS-C and he showed it to the masses, and they thought it was good. While sitting looking at his LED panel Andrew Williams(no relation to TimW) theorized that he should be able to build a controller compatible with TRICKS-C, without the need to learn a new micro, purchase new tools, or install a new tool-chain. Entitled the PIX-C this controller will duplicate the functionality of the TRICKS-C, but use only parts already used on a typical RENARD controller. Now if only the world would smell like Candy Canes.

== The Files ==

=== Schematic ===

[[File:Pix-C_v2_2_Schematic.pdf]]

=== Bill of Materials ===

[http://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=68dc1141c4 Mouser Quick Order BOM]

[[Image:PIX-C_BOM.jpg|200px]]

'''Note:''' Markings on the PCB SN75176BP are '''WRONG'''. The correct part is SN75179BP.
This is listed correctly in the visual BOM above, and in the Mouser project.

=== Gerbers ===

[http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/dynamics/showentry.php?e=103 ZIP Archive in the FILE LIBRARY]

=== Firmware ===

HEX file to be uploaded.

== Build Instructions ==

Step 1 - Install 470 (R3,R8) ohm resistors

[[Image:PIX-C_STEP_01.jpg|200px]]

Step 2 - Install 1K (R1,R2,R4) ohm resistors

[[Image:PIX-C_STEP_02.jpg|200px]]

Step 3 - Install 1N5139B diode (NOTE: Orientation!)

[[Image:PIX-C_STEP_03.jpg|200px]]

Step 4 - Install 0.1 uf (C1,C3) capacitors

[[Image:PIX-C_STEP_04.jpg|200px]]

Step 5 - Install DIP sockets (NOTE: Notch/Pin 1 orientation)

[[Image:PIX-C_STEP_05.jpg|200px]]

Step 6 - Install LEDs (may not appear as shown)

[[Image:PIX-C_STEP_06.jpg|200px]]

Step 7 - Install RJ45 jacks (may not appear exactly as shown)

[[Image:PIX-C_STEP_07.jpg|200px]]

Step 8 - Install 10 uf (C2) capacitor (NOTE: Polarity !!)

[[Image:PIX-C_STEP_08.jpg|200px]]

Last Step - insert the RS485, and PIC chips into their sockets.

*NOTE: PIC should be programmed in advance. Do not attempt to use the "In Circuit Programming Header" as there is insufficient clearance to do so.

== Controlling the PIX-C ==

The PIX-C is backwards compatible with the TRICKS-C and is thus controlled by the DOS LTC.exe program.

The following additional commands were added to LTC.exe version 11

'''#P_PROGRAM''' - used to program the panel addres into the PIX-C.
'''#P_FSnXX''' - tell panel 'n' to display ROM image XX
'''#P_FWnXX''' - tell panel 'n' to store current image buffer at EEPROM location X (0/1)

===Power connections===
are shown in the following diagram.

[[Image:PIX-C_Power.jpg|200px]]

PIX-C

2010-09-07T21:44:45Z

LabRat: /* Bill of Materials */

PIX-C

2010-09-07T21:43:31Z

LabRat: /* Bill of Materials */

Electronics Hardware

2010-09-03T04:21:18Z

LabRat:

This page contains links to ChristmasWiki entries relating to electronics hardware. It also has an overview of various types of DIY hardware that works with [[Vixen]] software.

==Links==

[[Hardware Design Guidelines]]- The DIYC community standard for hardware design. It is recommended that you check your electronic device and PCB designs against this standard.

[[Co-Op Boards and Assembly Instructions]]- Assembly instructions and documentation on boards that can be obtained through a DIYC COOP.

[[Comparison of DIY Boards]]- Charts that compare statistics on various COOP boards, including their channel count, cost, and COOP status.

[[Renard Main Page]]- Renard is a simple PIC-Based Light Dimmer Controller for use with Vixen.

[[Solid State Relays]]- Solid State Relays (SSRs) are used for switching of mains-voltage lights in a computerized display.

[[DMX to Grinch/595 convertor]]- How to make your Grinch speak DMX.

[[Olsen 595]]- How to make an Olsen 595 controller at home.

[[DMX ROBO Spot Light]]- How to build a Robotic Full Color Spotlight.

[[Control boards and Contacts]]- list of board designs found on DIYC and contact sources for them.

[[Compatible Serial Adapters]]- list of known serial port adapters that will work with our displays.

==Overview of DIY Hardware Approaches That Work With Vixen==

This section provides information about Do-It-Yourself (DIY) hardware that works with the [[Vixen]] software program. Vixen is a Windows (.NET Framework 2) program that runs on a PC, and is used to create and run light shows that may be synchronized to music. Here is a brief list of the DIY approaches that you can take that will work with Vixen.

===Non-Dimmable Light Controllers===

====SSR Direct Attach====

* Controlled through: Parallel Port
* Documentation: [[Solid State Relays]]

If you need 12 or fewer channels, you can just buy or build SSRs and connect them to the parallel port on your PC, and use them to turn 110VAC light strings (or just plain lamps) on and off (no dimming). These ssrs must be sourced or positive switched. From time to time there are coop buys of SSR boards,but these are usually sinked, and/or parts, to reduce your expense. You could place a couple ULN2803s and use the coop sinked ssrs. For more information on this come over to the forum and/or ask on the LiveChat.

====Kit74====
*Controlled through: Parallel Port

This is a kit with mechanical relays that can be purchased from various places. It is similar to the SSR Direct Attach, although the mechanical relays are noisy and have a limited lifespan. There are probably other similar kits available as well.

====Hill320====
* Controlled through: Parallel Port
* Documentation: http://computerchristmas.com/christmas/link-how_to/HowToId-4/How_To_Build_A_Parallel_Port_Controller_Box

This is a controller originally designed by Hill Robertson http://computerchristmas.com to allow up to 320 channels to be controlled by a PC, and requires an external power supply and SSRs. There isn't any coop board for this design at the moment. It is a more complicated design, and it is not currently recommended for newbies.

====Olsen 595/Grinch====
*Controlled through: Parallel Port
*Documentation: [[The GRINCH Controller]], [[GRINCH Controller Assembly Instructions]]
*Documentation: [[Olsen 595]]

This is a popular controller based on an approach first popularized on the http://computerchristmas.com and/or http://planetchristmas.com forums by Peter Olsen. In its first incarnation it used 8-bit 74HC595 logic chips, often with external buffers, while a later design (Grinch), popularized by Robert Jordan, uses 16-bit chips specialized for this use. There are coop boards available for both of these designs. These coop boards need external power supplies, and work with external (coop) SSR boards to control AC lighting.

There are some variations of this approach that support dimming, but they are not as popular and there aren't any coop boards available. However, using a [[Ren-C]] board can add dimming capability to a 595 or Grinch, which causes the board to operate as a Renard board. There is also an option available to run a Grinch or 595 controller from DMX with full dimming capability [[DMX_to_Grinch/595_convertor | HERE]].

The Grinch board is a good choice if you need more than 12 channels but want a board that is simple to build. It doesn't use very many parts, and is easy to assemble.

===Dimmable Light Controllers===
====Firegod====
*Controlled through : Serial Port
*Documentation: [[Firegod]]

This is a modular system that supports 32 to 128 channels per serial port, in increments of 32 channels, with 100 levels of dimming (using pulse width modulation - PWM). It consists of a host controller module and one to four field modules. The SSRs are not included on these boards, and must be provided separately. The interface to this system is RS-232. This system is available on a coop basis from time to time, with the kits including the boards, the parts, and pre-programmed microcontroller chips (PICs). This board is intermediate in complexity to build.

====Renard====
*Controlled through: Serial Port
*Documentation: [[Renard]]

This is another modular system that supports a varying number of channels, depending on baud rate selection. It supports 256 levels of dimming, and can be configured with or without PWM, or for use in DC applications. There are several coop boards available for this system with varying capabilities. It can be a fairly complex system because there are so many options. More information is available at the link listed above.

====Lynx====
*Controlled through: [[DMX]]
*Manual [[LYNX_Controller_Manual]]
The Lynx is a DIY dimmer design that uses [[DMX]] as its protocol but uses standard Cat5 cable for interconnections. It's designed to be similar to the layout of commercially available dimmers (LOR, AL, etc). It is an all in one unit that has its own power supply and SSR's built into it. You connect your DMX Cat5 and plug it in. Lights plug into female cord connections that exit from the board. It allows for a full 256 levels of dimming. The starting address is programmed via vixen. Since it uses the DMX protocol you can run 512 channels of Lynx on one DMX universe at 25ms timming.

In an effort to prevent variations in the design (leading to complications for the newer builders), insure that troubleshooting help can be provided, and keep the total cost as low as possible it is done as a modified coop. All the parts including the PCB and an enclosure are included. The necessary PIC microprocessor will come with the program preloaded so that the builder will not need a PIC programmer. A detailed instruction manual with pictures is included and should allow anyone with basic soldering skills to successfully build the controller.

====Helix====
*Controlled through: Standalone
*Documentation: [[Helix]]

The Helix is a standalone, networkable, modular system that supports a virtually unlimited number of channels. It supports 256 levels of PWM dimming. A Helix system consists of a Helix Main board and up to three Helix Daughter boards. Each Main board and Daughter board can control up to 32 channels. The Main board and basic Daughter board uses the standard four channel SSR boards. There is a 32ch SSR Daughter board that has the SSRs integrated with a basic Daughter board. If more than 128 channels are needed another Helix system can be added to form a Helix Network. These systems stay sync’d via a wireless XBee link. Up to 251 additional Helix systems can be added to the Helix Network as long as they are within radio range of the first Helix system. This allows up to 32,128 channels in a pure Helix system.

Since it is a standalone system, the Helix is a fairly complex system to build and operate. In an effort to minimize the complexity, the design and firmware are configuration controlled by the original system designer, Gregory Bartlett (gmbartlett). The PCBs and preprogrammed EEPROMs are available from him. All PCBs are bare except for the Helix Main Board. Since it requires a surface mount microSD card socket, this part comes presoldered.

===Other Controllers (Signs, Servos, etc.)===
====Ledtriks====
*Controlled through: Parallel Port
*Documentation: [[LedTriks Controller Assembly Instructions]] [http://www.christmasinshirley.com/wiki/images/8/8e/LEDTriks_Wiring_Schematic.pdf LedTriks Wiring Diagram]

This is a controller to control low-voltage LED panels, designed by Robert Jordan. These panels are typically 16 LEDs high by 48 LEDs wide, for a total of 768 LEDs. Vixen can control up to four panels through one parallel port, and can even display text.

One of the problems with the original LEDTRIKS design was the load placed on the PC to chunk the data out the parallel port.
The TRICKS-C and the PIC-C controllers were created to address this shortcoming.

=====Triks-C=====
*Controlled through: Serial port or standalone
*Documentation: [[TRIKSC]], [http://www.christmasinshirley.com/wiki/index.php?title=Image:TRIKSC_CONTROLLER_v.0.1_manual.pdf Manual in PDF format]

This is a an add on controller/process for the Ledtricks. The TRIKS-C uses a ATMEL process to take a LEDSTRIKS file and sends it out to the LEDTRIKS Controller, via the serial prot.

=====PIX-C=====
*Controlled through: Serial port or standalone
*Documentation: [[PIX-C]]

This is a an add on controller/process for the Ledtricks. It is backward compatible with the TRIKS-C, is based on the Microchip 16F688 processor.

====JEC Pixel Displays====
*Controlled through: [[DMX]]

Pixels are a stand-alone lighting fixture controlled by DMX-512. Each pixel has banks of red, green and blue wide-angle LEDs, currently six of each. Firmware is available in two versions: 3 and 4 channel. 3 channel requires a dmx channel for red, green and blue intensity. Four channel adds master intensity control to the original three.

Pixels require a stiff +12v switching power supply. Each circuit board draws ~ 130 mA at full brightness. Pixels chain together using standard CAT5 networking cable. Per the DMX spec, no more than 32 pixels should be connected together without using an optosplitter / signal buffer.

LED refresh rate is nearly 100 Hz.

More details can be found at http://www.response-box.com/rgblights

Currently in progress is a version of the firmware which will allow the DMX address to be changed in the field. Currently the address is hard-coded.

====rgbLED====
* Controlled through: Serial Port

The RGB LED's will have the ability to make hundreds of colors with a single led. They can be controlled individually, series, or parallel with each other. These are not able to be addressable individually as they have no control onboard. You will have to use DCSSR's, Franks Ren24LV, or a Grinch to turn each channel on and off to get the desired color. Each RGB LED will use 3 channels, 1 for each color. These would give you the ability to make strings out of these to have any color you want. It will also use less power compared to standard mini lights.

More information to follow as I start my testing.

==Pictures of Various Coop Boards (mostly assembled)==
<gallery caption="Coop Boards (mostly assembled)" widths="150px" heights="150px" perrow="4">

Image:SSROZ 2.5a (small).jpg|[[4_Channel_SSROZ_Assembly_Instructions | SSR (solid state relay)]]
Image:SSRez.jpg|[[SSRez | SSR (solid state relay ez)]]
Image: coop595.jpg|[[64_Channel_Olsen_595_Controller_Assembly_Instructions | 595 Coop Board]]
Image: Coopgrinch.jpg|[[GRINCH_Controller_Assembly_Instructions | Grinch]]
Image: Ren24.jpg|[[24 Channel Renard with SSR Assembly Instructions | Renard by FKostyun: 24 ports with on-board power supply and SSRs]]
Image:Wiki_-_Renard_SS8_Complete.jpg|Renard SS 8
Image:Wiki_-_Renard_SS16_Completed_Board.jpg|Renard SS 16
Image:Wiki_-_Renard_SS24_Completed_Board.jpg|Renard SS 24
Image:xmus.jpg|[[16_Channel_Renard_with_SSRs | Ren16 (xmus)]]
Image:USBtoDMX.jpg|RPM USB to DMX Adapter
Image:DMX4SSR.jpg|RPM DMX4 SSR
Image:DMX16SSR_PCBOARD.JPG|RPM DMX16 SSR
Image:DMX8-DCSSR-Board.jpg|RPM DMX8 DC SSR
Image:Grinch_DMX_Dimmer_V2.jpg|[[DMX_to_Grinch/595_convertor |RPM Grinch DMX Dimming Adapter]]

</gallery>

==Commercial Products Supported By Vixen==

===Digital Input/Output Cards===

*[[PCI-DIO-96]] by National Instruments
*[http://www.elexol.com/IO_Modules/USB_IO_24.php Elexol USB I/O 24] - ([http://lights.onthefive.com/vixen-plugins Plugin] by Jonathon Reinhart)
*[http://www.elexol.com/IO_Modules/Ether_IO_24.php Elexol Ether I/O 24] - ([http://lights.onthefive.com/vixen-plugins Plugin] by Jonathon Reinhart)

PIX-C

2010-09-03T03:53:47Z

LabRat: /* Gerbers */

PIX-C

2010-09-03T03:00:58Z

LabRat:

File:PIX-C Power.jpg

2010-09-03T02:59:01Z

LabRat: Showing PIX-C power connections.

Showing PIX-C power connections.

PIX-C

2010-09-03T02:53:10Z

LabRat: /* Build Instructions */

PIX-C

2010-09-03T02:49:32Z

LabRat:

File:Pix-c.jpg

2010-09-03T02:34:56Z

LabRat: Bare board

Bare board

File:PIX-C STEP 09.jpg

2010-09-03T02:34:27Z

LabRat: Terminal headers

Terminal headers

File:PIX-C STEP 08.jpg

2010-09-03T02:33:59Z

LabRat: 10 uf capacitor

10 uf capacitor

File:PIX-C STEP 07.jpg

2010-09-03T02:33:34Z

LabRat: RJ45 sockets

RJ45 sockets

File:PIX-C STEP 06.jpg

2010-09-03T02:33:05Z

LabRat: LEDs

LEDs

File:PIX-C STEP 05.jpg

2010-09-03T02:32:35Z

LabRat: DIP sockets

DIP sockets

File:PIX-C STEP 04.jpg

2010-09-03T02:32:03Z

LabRat: 0.1 uf capacitors

0.1 uf capacitors

File:PIX-C STEP 03.jpg

2010-09-03T02:31:23Z

LabRat:

1N5239B diode

File:PIX-C STEP 03.jpg

2010-09-03T02:29:37Z

LabRat: 0.1 uf Capacitors

0.1 uf Capacitors

File:PIX-C STEP 02.jpg

2010-09-03T02:28:57Z

LabRat: 1k ohm resistors

1k ohm resistors