doityourselfchristmas.com - User contributions [en]

16 Channel Renard with SSR Assembly Instructions

2008-10-27T17:50:19Z

Monteryjack: /* Build Steps */

== Overview ==
*Assembly Time: 2 hours
*Skill Level: Medium

== Disclaimer ==
ALL INFORMATION WITHIN THIS DOCUMENT IS PROVIDED "AS IS" AND WITHOUT ANY EXPRESS OR IMPLIED WARRANTIES, INCLUDING, WITHOUT LIMITATION, THE IMPLIED WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTABILITY AND FITNESS FOR A PARTICULAR PURPOSE. I DO NOT GUARANTEE ANY INFORMATION IN THIS DOCUMENT IS ACCURATE, AND IT SHOULD BE USED FOR ABSTRACT EDUCATIONAL PURPOSES ONLY.

THIS FILE IS DISTRIBUTED IN THE HOPE THAT IT WILL BE USEFUL, BUT WITHOUT ANY WARRANTY; WITHOUT EVEN THE IMPLIED WARRANTY OF MERCHANTABILITY OR FITNESS FOR A PARTICULAR PURPOSE.

The standard ChristmasWiki [[Disclaimers]] also apply.

== Reference Material ==
=== Tools ===
*Bench Soldering Iron
*Silver Solder
*Flat cut dykes
*Desoldering bulb

=== Other Requirements ===
* You will need an RS232 to RS485 converter. I would suggest [http://www.ebay.com EBAY]

=== Related Documents/Links ===
* [http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-RS232-To-RS485-Data-Communication-Adapter_W0QQitemZ300121293785QQihZ020QQcategoryZ41993QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem RS485 Converter from Ebay]
*[http://www.ritzfam.com/ChristmasMadness/Renardx16SSR/Release/16cPicDimmedSSR_Parts_List_Rev1.9.xls Parts List]
* [http://www.ritzfam.com/ChristmasMadness/Renardx16SSR/Release/16CPicDimmedSSR_Theory_of_Operation_Rev1.9.pdf Theory of Operations]
* [http://www.ritzfam.com/ChristmasMadness/Renardx16SSR/Release/16CPicDimmerSSR_Rev1.9.pdf Image of Board]
* [http://www.ritzfam.com/ChristmasMadness/Renardx16SSR/Release/16CPicDimmerSSR_Rev1.9_TOP.pdf Top of PCB]
* [http://www.ritzfam.com/ChristmasMadness/Renardx16SSR/Release/16CPicDimmerSSR_Rev1.9_BOTTOM.pdf Botton of PCB]
* [http://www.ritzfam.com/ChristmasMadness/Renardx16SSR/Release/16CPicDimmerSSR_Rev1.9_SILK.pdf Silk Screen]
* [http://www.christmasinshirley.com/forum/viewforum.php?f=36 Latest PIC Code]

== Build Steps ==
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="0" width="100%"
!align=center |Install Item||align=center|Qty||align=center|Mouser P/N||align=center|Location||Notes
|-
|nowrap|1. IC sockets 6 pin ||align=center|17||align=center|571-3902611||align=center|U3-U19||Make sure they are oriented the same way as the silk screen image. U19 is oriented opposite of the others.
|-
|nowrap|2. IC Sockets 8 Pin||align=center|2||align=center|575-193308||align=center|U20 & U21||.
|-
|nowrap|3. IC Sockets 14 Pin||align=center|2||align=center|575-199314||align=center|U1 & U2||.
|-
|nowrap|4. Bossman Fuse Holder||align=center|4||align=center|504-1a3399-10||align=center|H1 & H2 pads||Make sure the notch on the fuse holder is oriented so one is on the top and the other on the bottom to properly hold the fuse. Consider soldering this with the fuse in place.
|-
|nowrap|5. Euro Sytle Terminal Blocks||align=center|11||align=center|538-398890-0302||align=center|Lower Edge of Board||.
|-
|nowrap|6. 15Kohm resistors||align=center|2||align=center|71-ccf60-15k-e3||align=center|R17 & R18||.
|-
|nowrap|7. 178ohm resistors||align=center|16||align=center|273-178-rc||align=center|R1 - R16||Orient the colored bands all the same way for ease of troubleshooting later.
|-
|nowrap|8. 10pin 680ohm bus resistor||align=center|2||align=center|266-680||align=center|above U7 & U15||.
|-
| colspan=5 align="center"|Numbered Photo - Numbers correspond to the build steps
[[Image:16Channel_Renard_SSR.jpeg]]

|-
|nowrap|9. 2 ping jumper mount||align=center|4||align=center|571-3-644456-2||align=center|J1 - J4||.
|-
|nowrap|10. Green LED||align=center|2||align=center|604-wp7104gt||align=center|Ch2Diag #1 & #2||The short leg of the led goes to the flat side of the silkscreening
|-
|nowrap|11. Monolithic Radial Capacitor||align=center|2||align=center|81-rpee41h105m4k1e12||align=center|C1 & C2||The heat sink for the 5vdc converter comes down on top of this part in C1, so it has to be bent sideways.||.
|-
|nowrap|12. Amp Modular Jacks rj45||align=center|2||align=center|571-5520251-4||Upper Right and Left||.
|-
|nowrap|13. Coated axial ceramic capacitors||align=center|2||align=center|80-c410c104m5u||C3 & C4||.
|-
|nowrap|14. Voltage Regulator||align=center|1||align=center|821-TS7805C2||5vReg||511-L7805CV should be a good Mouser Number.
|-
|nowrap|15. 8 amp Triac||align=center|16||align=center|511-BTA08-400b||Bottom of board||Be sure to solder these well as they will be carrying 110v A/C. Make sure they are lined up straight so a heat sink can be attached. Consider soldering with a heat sink already attached. 511-BTA04-700T is for the more sensitive LED Triac.
|-
|nowrap|16. 1K ohm resistors||align=center|3||align=center|660-mf1/4dc1001f||align=center|R20, R21 & R24||.
|-
|nowrap|17. Crystal Clock oscillator||align=center|1||align=center|520-tch1843-x||align=center|OSC1||.
|-
|nowrap|18. 22k ohm resistor||align=center|3||align=center|660-mf1/4dlt52r2702f||align=center|R19, R22 & R23||.
|-
| colspan=5 align="center"|Numbered Photo - Numbers correspond to the build steps
[[Image:16Channel_Renard_SSR_2.jpeg]]

|-

|nowrap|19. zener diode||align=center|1||align=center|78-in5239b||align=center|D2||.
|-
|nowrap|20. zener diode||align=center|1||align=center|512-1n5229b-t50a||align=center|D1||.
|-
|nowrap|21. 120 ohm resistor||align=center|1||align=center|660-mf1/4dct52r1200f||align=center|R26||.
|-
|nowrap|22. VR/50v diode||align=center|1||align=center|625-1n4001-e3||align=center|D3||.
|-
|nowrap|23. red led||align=center|1||align=center|604-wp7104ec||align=center|Top Center||.
|-
|nowrap|24. H11aa1||align=center|1||align=center|782-h11aa1||align=center|U19||.
|-
|nowrap|25. Rs485||align=center|2||align=center|837-isl81487eip||align=center|U20 & U21||.
|-
|nowrap|26. Pic Chips||align=center|2||align=center|579-PIC16F688-I/P||align=center|#2||.
|-
|nowrap|27. fuses||align=center|2||align=center|504-gma-5||align=center|H1 & H2||.
|-
|nowrap|28. Heat Sink||align=center|1||align=center|532-574502B00||align=center|5vReg||.
|-
| colspan=5 align="center"|Here is a picture of the final product

[[Image:16Channel_Renard_SSR_Final.jpeg]]

|-

|}

== Options ==
=== 240 or 24 volt Conversion ===
The original controller was designed for operation on 110VAC and many of the parts were specified for 110V. The board will operate at other voltages, however a number of changes need to be made.

The first decision to be made is what voltage you want to switch. The triacs are responsible for switching the primary voltage. The is no reason that the primary voltage for the TRIACs could not be 240VAC or 24VAC, however the circuit will need to be modified.

One of the major changes is the ZC detect section of the controller. The original circuit specified a H11AA1 for the optoisolator, with two 15k ohm 1watt resistors for current limiting. Details on the H11AA1 can be found here

[http://www.fairchildsemi.com/ds/H1%2FH11AA1-M.pdf H11AA1 Datasheet]

I understand that the 15kΩ values are calculated as follows:

I(fwd-peak) = 5mA

V(rms) = 110 VAC RMS

V (peak) = V(rms) * 1.41 = 150VAC

R = V(peak) / I (fwd-peak) = 150V / 0.005 A = 30k ohm Two resistors of 15 k each for a total of 30k.

P = I(peak)(squared) * R = 0.005 * .005 * 15000 / 2 = 0.2W per resistor.

====12VDC switching.====

====12VAC switching.====
The peak voltage for a 12 VAC line is 12 x 1.414 = 17 V, so R = 17 V / 1 A = 17 ohms minimum. At 12VAC, rounded to 22 ohms for a standard value.

====24VAC switching.====

Parts Required and changes.

Gate Resistors - The original value for the gate resistors (item 7) was 180 ohms. For 24VAC operation, the gate resistors need to be changed to 33 ohms.

H11AA1 limiting resistors - These will need to be changed to 3.3k 1/4 watt.

====240VAC switching.====

Parts Required and changes.

Gate Resistors - The original value for the gate resistors (item 7) was 180 ohms. For 240VAC operation, the gate resistors need to be changed to 360 ohms.

H11AA1 limiting resistors - I am going to make a suggestion for the board to operate on 240VAC that will require a number of physical and electrical changes to the ZC circuit on the controller. This modification is designed to use a low voltage transformer to derive the ZC signal from, instead of the 240VAC Hot rail.

1. ''' Fit two R18s to the PCB.''' Now that the PCB has been modified, you need to fit two new R18s, appropriate for the ZC voltage the H1AA1 will be sensing.

2. '''Cutting a track.''' Looking at the copper side of the PCB, you will notice a small track common from the HOT rail to the inside H1AA11 resistor (R18). There are two R18s, and I'll refer to them as Inside and Outside R18s. The Outside R18 is the one closest to the edge of the PCB. (I'll see if I can take a picture of my board.). By cutting this track, the H11AA1 will be floating with reference to the HOT on the TRIAC (240VAC in this example).

3. '''Fitting a jumper wire.''' With the original design, you only needed to connect the White (neutral) to the 2 pole terminal block. The terminal block is located on the right hand side of the PCB, and has a '''N''' and and a '''NC''' marked on the silkscreen overlay. using a short piece of jumper wire, solder a connection between the '''NC''' on the terminal block and the hot side of the Inside R18. This will replace the track you cut in Step 2.

3. ''' Fit two R18s to the PCB.''' Now that the PCB has been modified, you need to fit two new resistors to the ZC circuit. I am going to use a 30VAC CT transformer to power my board (via a Diode rectifier circuit). Taking a tap from the transformer

=== Computer feed/power cable ===
Now you have installed all the parts, the next decision is how you will connect the controller to the PC, and how you will power the board.

The majority of the controller is run from a 5 volt DC regulator that is located on the PCB. The regulator is a 7805, and will provide a regulated 5VDC supply. The input voltage for the controller needs to be at least 9 VDC and no more than 15 VDC.

Checking the datasheet for the 7805, the minimum input voltage must be 2.0V greater than the V(out) = 7.0 V and with the input power diode (1N4001) having a Maximum Instantaneous Forward Voltage Drop of 1.1V, the absolute minimum is 8.1V. However, the system was analyzed with a VOM and a variable output power supply, and to assure 5.0VDC minimum at TP6, it is recommended to stay above 7.5VDC at TP2.

16 Channel Renard with SSR Assembly Instructions

2008-10-27T17:20:02Z

Monteryjack: /* Build Steps */

== Overview ==
*Assembly Time: 2 hours
*Skill Level: Medium

== Disclaimer ==
ALL INFORMATION WITHIN THIS DOCUMENT IS PROVIDED "AS IS" AND WITHOUT ANY EXPRESS OR IMPLIED WARRANTIES, INCLUDING, WITHOUT LIMITATION, THE IMPLIED WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTABILITY AND FITNESS FOR A PARTICULAR PURPOSE. I DO NOT GUARANTEE ANY INFORMATION IN THIS DOCUMENT IS ACCURATE, AND IT SHOULD BE USED FOR ABSTRACT EDUCATIONAL PURPOSES ONLY.

THIS FILE IS DISTRIBUTED IN THE HOPE THAT IT WILL BE USEFUL, BUT WITHOUT ANY WARRANTY; WITHOUT EVEN THE IMPLIED WARRANTY OF MERCHANTABILITY OR FITNESS FOR A PARTICULAR PURPOSE.

The standard ChristmasWiki [[Disclaimers]] also apply.

== Reference Material ==
=== Tools ===
*Bench Soldering Iron
*Silver Solder
*Flat cut dykes
*Desoldering bulb

=== Other Requirements ===
* You will need an RS232 to RS485 converter. I would suggest [http://www.ebay.com EBAY]

=== Related Documents/Links ===
* [http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-RS232-To-RS485-Data-Communication-Adapter_W0QQitemZ300121293785QQihZ020QQcategoryZ41993QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem RS485 Converter from Ebay]
*[http://www.ritzfam.com/ChristmasMadness/Renardx16SSR/Release/16cPicDimmedSSR_Parts_List_Rev1.9.xls Parts List]
* [http://www.ritzfam.com/ChristmasMadness/Renardx16SSR/Release/16CPicDimmedSSR_Theory_of_Operation_Rev1.9.pdf Theory of Operations]
* [http://www.ritzfam.com/ChristmasMadness/Renardx16SSR/Release/16CPicDimmerSSR_Rev1.9.pdf Image of Board]
* [http://www.ritzfam.com/ChristmasMadness/Renardx16SSR/Release/16CPicDimmerSSR_Rev1.9_TOP.pdf Top of PCB]
* [http://www.ritzfam.com/ChristmasMadness/Renardx16SSR/Release/16CPicDimmerSSR_Rev1.9_BOTTOM.pdf Botton of PCB]
* [http://www.ritzfam.com/ChristmasMadness/Renardx16SSR/Release/16CPicDimmerSSR_Rev1.9_SILK.pdf Silk Screen]
* [http://www.christmasinshirley.com/forum/viewforum.php?f=36 Latest PIC Code]

== Build Steps ==
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="0" width="100%"
!align=center |Install Item||align=center|Qty||align=center|Mouser P/N||align=center|Location||Notes
|-
|nowrap|1. IC sockets 6 pin ||align=center|17||align=center|571-3902611||align=center|U3-U19||Make sure they are oriented the same way as the silk screen image. U19 is oriented opposite of the others.
|-
|nowrap|2. IC Sockets 8 Pin||align=center|2||align=center|575-193308||align=center|U20 & U21||.
|-
|nowrap|3. IC Sockets 14 Pin||align=center|2||align=center|575-199314||align=center|U1 & U2||.
|-
|nowrap|4. Bossman Fuse Holder||align=center|4||align=center|504-1a3399-10||align=center|H1 & H2 pads||Make sure the notch on the fuse holder is oriented so one is on the top and the other on the bottom to properly hold the fuse. Consider soldering this with the fuse in place.
|-
|nowrap|5. Euro Sytle Terminal Blocks||align=center|11||align=center|538-398890-0302||align=center|Lower Edge of Board||.
|-
|nowrap|6. 15Kohm resistors||align=center|2||align=center|71-ccf60-15k-e3||align=center|R17 & R18||.
|-
|nowrap|7. 178ohm resistors||align=center|16||align=center|273-178-rc||align=center|R1 - R16||Orient the colored bands all the same way for ease of troubleshooting later.
|-
|nowrap|8. 10pin 680ohm bus resistor||align=center|2||align=center|266-680||align=center|above U7 & U15||.
|-
| colspan=5 align="center"|Numbered Photo - Numbers correspond to the build steps
[[Image:16Channel_Renard_SSR.jpeg]]

|-
|nowrap|9. 2 ping jumper mount||align=center|4||align=center|571-3-644456-2||align=center|J1 - J4||.
|-
|nowrap|10. Green LED||align=center|2||align=center|604-wp7104gt||align=center|Ch2Diag #1 & #2||The short leg of the led goes to the flat side of the silkscreening
|-
|nowrap|11. Monolithic Radial Capacitor||align=center|2||align=center|81-rpee41h105m4k1e12||align=center|C1 & C2||The heat sink for the 5vdc converter comes down on top of this part in C1, so it has to be bent sideways.||.
|-
|nowrap|12. Amp Modular Jacks rj45||align=center|2||align=center|571-5520251-4||Upper Right and Left||.
|-
|nowrap|13. Coated axial ceramic capacitors||align=center|2||align=center|80-c410c104m5u||C3 & C4||.
|-
|nowrap|14. Voltage Regulator||align=center|1||align=center|821-TS7805C2||5vReg||511-L7805CV should be a good Mouser Number.
|-
|nowrap|15. 8 amp Triac||align=center|16||align=center|511-BTA08-400b||Bottom of board||Be sure to solder these well as they will be carrying 110v A/C. Make sure they are lined up straight so a heat sink can be attached. Consider soldering with a heat sink already attached. 511-BTA04-700T is for the more sensitive LED Triac.
|-
|nowrap|16. 1K ohm resistors||align=center|3||align=center|660-mf1/4dc1001f||align=center|R20, R21 & R24||.
|-
|nowrap|17. Crystal Clock oscillator||align=center|1||align=center|520-tck1843-x||align=center|OSC1||.
|-
|nowrap|18. 22k ohm resistor||align=center|3||align=center|660-mf1/4dlt52r2702f||align=center|R19, R22 & R23||.
|-
| colspan=5 align="center"|Numbered Photo - Numbers correspond to the build steps
[[Image:16Channel_Renard_SSR_2.jpeg]]

|-

|nowrap|19. zener diode||align=center|1||align=center|78-in5239b||align=center|D2||.
|-
|nowrap|20. zener diode||align=center|1||align=center|512-1n5229b-t50a||align=center|D1||.
|-
|nowrap|21. 120 ohm resistor||align=center|1||align=center|660-mf1/4dct52r1200f||align=center|R26||.
|-
|nowrap|22. VR/50v diode||align=center|1||align=center|625-1n4001-e3||align=center|D3||.
|-
|nowrap|23. red led||align=center|1||align=center|604-wp7104ec||align=center|Top Center||.
|-
|nowrap|24. H11aa1||align=center|1||align=center|782-h11aa1||align=center|U19||.
|-
|nowrap|25. Rs485||align=center|2||align=center|837-isl81487eip||align=center|U20 & U21||.
|-
|nowrap|26. Pic Chips||align=center|2||align=center|579-PIC16F688-I/P||align=center|#2||.
|-
|nowrap|27. fuses||align=center|2||align=center|504-gma-5||align=center|H1 & H2||.
|-
|nowrap|28. Heat Sink||align=center|1||align=center|532-574502B00||align=center|5vReg||.
|-
| colspan=5 align="center"|Here is a picture of the final product

[[Image:16Channel_Renard_SSR_Final.jpeg]]

|-

|}

== Options ==
=== 240 or 24 volt Conversion ===
The original controller was designed for operation on 110VAC and many of the parts were specified for 110V. The board will operate at other voltages, however a number of changes need to be made.

The first decision to be made is what voltage you want to switch. The triacs are responsible for switching the primary voltage. The is no reason that the primary voltage for the TRIACs could not be 240VAC or 24VAC, however the circuit will need to be modified.

One of the major changes is the ZC detect section of the controller. The original circuit specified a H11AA1 for the optoisolator, with two 15k ohm 1watt resistors for current limiting. Details on the H11AA1 can be found here

[http://www.fairchildsemi.com/ds/H1%2FH11AA1-M.pdf H11AA1 Datasheet]

I understand that the 15kΩ values are calculated as follows:

I(fwd-peak) = 5mA

V(rms) = 110 VAC RMS

V (peak) = V(rms) * 1.41 = 150VAC

R = V(peak) / I (fwd-peak) = 150V / 0.005 A = 30k ohm Two resistors of 15 k each for a total of 30k.

P = I(peak)(squared) * R = 0.005 * .005 * 15000 / 2 = 0.2W per resistor.

====12VDC switching.====

====12VAC switching.====
The peak voltage for a 12 VAC line is 12 x 1.414 = 17 V, so R = 17 V / 1 A = 17 ohms minimum. At 12VAC, rounded to 22 ohms for a standard value.

====24VAC switching.====

Parts Required and changes.

Gate Resistors - The original value for the gate resistors (item 7) was 180 ohms. For 24VAC operation, the gate resistors need to be changed to 33 ohms.

H11AA1 limiting resistors - These will need to be changed to 3.3k 1/4 watt.

====240VAC switching.====

Parts Required and changes.

Gate Resistors - The original value for the gate resistors (item 7) was 180 ohms. For 240VAC operation, the gate resistors need to be changed to 360 ohms.

H11AA1 limiting resistors - I am going to make a suggestion for the board to operate on 240VAC that will require a number of physical and electrical changes to the ZC circuit on the controller. This modification is designed to use a low voltage transformer to derive the ZC signal from, instead of the 240VAC Hot rail.

1. ''' Fit two R18s to the PCB.''' Now that the PCB has been modified, you need to fit two new R18s, appropriate for the ZC voltage the H1AA1 will be sensing.

2. '''Cutting a track.''' Looking at the copper side of the PCB, you will notice a small track common from the HOT rail to the inside H1AA11 resistor (R18). There are two R18s, and I'll refer to them as Inside and Outside R18s. The Outside R18 is the one closest to the edge of the PCB. (I'll see if I can take a picture of my board.). By cutting this track, the H11AA1 will be floating with reference to the HOT on the TRIAC (240VAC in this example).

3. '''Fitting a jumper wire.''' With the original design, you only needed to connect the White (neutral) to the 2 pole terminal block. The terminal block is located on the right hand side of the PCB, and has a '''N''' and and a '''NC''' marked on the silkscreen overlay. using a short piece of jumper wire, solder a connection between the '''NC''' on the terminal block and the hot side of the Inside R18. This will replace the track you cut in Step 2.

3. ''' Fit two R18s to the PCB.''' Now that the PCB has been modified, you need to fit two new resistors to the ZC circuit. I am going to use a 30VAC CT transformer to power my board (via a Diode rectifier circuit). Taking a tap from the transformer

=== Computer feed/power cable ===
Now you have installed all the parts, the next decision is how you will connect the controller to the PC, and how you will power the board.

The majority of the controller is run from a 5 volt DC regulator that is located on the PCB. The regulator is a 7805, and will provide a regulated 5VDC supply. The input voltage for the controller needs to be at least 9 VDC and no more than 15 VDC.

Checking the datasheet for the 7805, the minimum input voltage must be 2.0V greater than the V(out) = 7.0 V and with the input power diode (1N4001) having a Maximum Instantaneous Forward Voltage Drop of 1.1V, the absolute minimum is 8.1V. However, the system was analyzed with a VOM and a variable output power supply, and to assure 5.0VDC minimum at TP6, it is recommended to stay above 7.5VDC at TP2.

24 Channel Renard with SSR Assembly Instructions

2008-10-27T17:18:26Z

Monteryjack: /* BOM */

=== General Note ===
Please note: a lot of this page references version 3.3 of the board, which will be in 2008 Co-Op #3. The '''major''' differences are cosmetic on the board.

The biggest difference on all boards is from v 2.5 to v 3.0 with the RJ45 pin config correction, and the addition of the neutral buss.

Some considerations of the designs are based on the following: [[Hardware_Design_Guidelines#PCB_Design]]

=== Schematic===

[[Media:Renard64_sch_001.pdf]]
(please note, the schematic is identical to the Renard64)

=== Layout ===

[[Image:REN_24_25.jpg]]

=== COOP PCB V3.0 ===

[[Image:26-72.jpg]]

=== Co-Op Board 3.3 Assembly Instructions ===

For a full document on how to build the Renard 24, please click the following link:

http://data.kostyun.com/PDF/building_ren_24.pdf - Renard 24 Assembly Instructions

=== Testing the v 3.3 Co-Op Board===
Version 3.3 has added 7 test points (TP1 to TP7)

TP1: +5v 
TP2: GND 
TP3: +12v 
TP4: 12vac 
TP5: 12vac 
TP6: RS485A / RJ45 Pin 5 
TP7: RS485B / RJ45 Pin 4 

=== Design Notes for v 3.3 Co-Op Board===

The COMM FR LED pads are backwords - the cathode (short leg on the LED) will go into the round hole

=== Renard 24 Jumper Settings and Options ===

''Version 2.5 and Greater ''
120/240v Jumpers: Allow for setting the transformers input voltage (labeled as JP1 and JP2.) 
[[Image:120v240v.jpg]] 

Zero Cross: If on, the board will insert the zero cross signal on the RJ45 pin 3 (labeled as JP3.) This is used to send a ZC signal to another board such as a Ren64 or Ren16. 
[[Image:Zc1.jpg]] 
 

Transformer On/Off: If on, the transformer recieves power from the left power input. 
[[Image:Transformer.jpg]] 

 
''Version 3.3 and Greater ''
12v Jumpers: Located below the transformer, these can be installed to use the board in 12vac only mode (for use with MR16 LED lamps, also labeled as JP5 and JP6.) 

=== Firmware ===
All Renard Firmware is located [[Renard_Firmware]]

=== BOM ===

<pre>
PCB
1 Ren24 v3.3 Renard 24-Port PCB

Board Specific Parts: PLEASE SEE BELOW FOR v3.3 BOARD

571-7969494 1 '''See note below for v3.3'''
595-SN75176BP 2 '''RS-485 Interface ICs Bus Diff'''
511-L7805CV 1 '''LM7805 Voltage Regulator'''
821-DB102G 1 '''subsitute part 512-DF01M'''
532-7136DG 1 '''Heat Sink for 5V regulator'''
271-27K-RC 3 '''27k ohm 1/4 watt resistor'''
271-1K-RC 4 '''1k ohm 1/4 watt resistor'''
271-120-RC 1 '''120ohm 1/4 watt resistor'''
625-1N4001-E3 1 '''Standard Rectifiers Vr/50V Io/1A'''
78-1N5239B 2 '''Zener Diodes 9.1 Volt 0.5 Watt'''
838-3FD-320 1 '''Larger Transformer use part 838-3FD-420'''
782-H11AA1 1 '''Optocouplers Bi-Directional Input'''
520-TCF1843-X 1 '''Full Size Crystal Clock Oscillators DIP-14 5V 18.432MHz'''
140-HTRL25V1000-RC 1 '''Hi-Temp Radial Electrolytic Capacitors 25V 1000uF 105C'''
140-HTRL25V10-RC 1 '''Hi-Temp Radial Electrolytic Capacitors 25V 10uF 105C'''
534-3517 4 '''Fuse Clips and Holders PC FUSE CLIP 5 MM'''
504-GMA-15 2 '''5mm x 20mm Fast Acting Fuses 125VAC 15A Fast Acting'''

Parts from the Common Parts List: (Common parts are the parts that are not unique to the Ren24, and may also be used in other designs) PLEASE SEE BELOW FOR v3.3 BOARD

511-BTA08-400B 24 '''Triac Driver (24 needed) or 511-BTA04-700T more sensitive triac for LED's))'''
859-MOC3023 24 '''MOC 3023 Optocoupler'''
579-PIC16F688-I/P 3 '''Microchip PIC 16F1688'''
604-WP63ID 2 '''Red T1 3/4 LED, or any 10-30ma LED'''
604-WP1503GD 1 '''Green T1 3/4 LED or any 10-30ma LED'''
271-180-RC 24 '''180ohm 1/4 watt resistor'''
271-680-RC 27 '''680ohm 1/4 watt resistor'''
581-SA105E104MAR 5 '''.10 uF Ceramic Capacitor'''
571-9-146281-0 1 '''.100 three pin header(4 needed) Part specified is a 40 pin, cut off size that is needed.'''
571-2-382811-1 4 '''.100 Shunt (4 needed) You may also "steal" these off of old computer parts.'''
571-1-390261-2 2 '''8 pin DIP socket'''
571-1-390261-3 3 '''14 pin DIP socket'''
571-1-390261-1 25 '''Optional 6 Pin Socket for Optocoupler & H11AA1'''
571-5564161 2 '''RJ45 Sockets (2 needed) orientation doesn't matter. Specified part is same as the Ren64'''

Parts changed for board 3.0
PART OPTION #1 - Using Screw Down Terminals

571-2828376 6 '''6 Position Screw Down Terminal (Ren24 2.5 needs 4 of these)'''
158-P02EK508A3-E 4 '''3 Position Angled Screw Down Terminal'''
158-P02EHK508V3-E 1 '''3 Position Screw Down Terminal (power input)'''
158-P02EHK508V2-E 1 '''2 Position Screw Down Terminal (power input)'''

Spade Terminals

534-1287 53 '''Spade Terminals (52 needed for board v3.0)'''

Parts added for board 3.3
604-WP63ID 2 '''Two additional 680ohm 1/4 watt resistors'''
271-680-RC 2 '''Two additional Ren T1 3/4 LED's'''
571-7969495 1 '''added five pin header to jumper both hot sides REPLACES 571-7969494'''

Optional Parts for The Board:

12VAC Operation
571-9-146281-0 1 '''.100 two pin header(2 needed)'''
571-2-382811-1 2 '''.100 Shunt (2 needed) You may also "steal" these off of old computer parts.'''
838-3FD-320 0 '''Transformer is ELIMINATED from the board in thsi option'''

</pre>

** NOTE UPDATED 10/06 - I put the wrong transformer part # Old part is 838-3FD-310 [[please see here if you purchased any]].

==== PC to Renard Cable ====

The Renard 24 board has on-board power supply circuitry and on-board zero-crossing circuitry, so all that it needs on the RJ45 cable are data signals and ground. If you are using RS232 input and connecting it directly to the PC serial port, the following cable pin outs will work:

'''Version 3.0 Board:'''
PC DB9 Pin 3 to RJ45-pin 4
PC DB9 Pin 5 to RJ45-pins 1,2,5 (pins 1 and 5 are required, pin 2 is optional).
[[Image:Ren24V3.jpg]]

If you are using a RS-232 to RS-485 converter, the pinout is Pin 5 to A+
and Pin 4 to B-. This is the same as for the Ren 16.

'''Version 2.5 Board:'''
PC DB9 Pin 3 to RJ45-pin 5
PC DB9 Pin 5 to RJ45-pins 1,2,4 (pins 1 and 4 are required, pin 2 is optional).
[[Image:Ren24v25.jpg]]

'''NOTE:''' ''The 2.5 cable will not work with the Renard16, Renard64 or Ren-C boards because pins 4 and 5 on the version 2.5 Renard24 are reversed from those other boards.''

[[Image:Db9f.gif]]
'''Female DB9 connector as if you were looking into the end of it from the outside.'''

The Renard24 3.0 or greater will pass the zero cross and power to other boards connected to it (such as a Renard64 or Renard16.)

=== Design Notes for v 2.5 Co-Op Board===

Pin 1 of the crystal is on the bottom left.

Pin 1 of the transformer is on the top left.

The cathode (striped) pin of the 1N4001 diode is on the top.

The correct designation of the capacitor on the top right is .1uF, not .1F.

The + pin of the DB102 is on the bottom right both of the ~ should be on the left.

The parts list has a 100uF cap, ignore it - as its not needed (Deleted from BOM) There is a 1uF on the board, also not needed.

The 7805 (flat side) goes to the top of the board.

The heatsink for the 7805 should be trimmmed at the bottom to allow for proper fit.

The fuse clips are two tight for the board - now sure how this happened - I need to look into this more - as this is the part that I ordered last year and it fits fine.

The jumpers on the board are for 120/240v operation. If you don't plan on using the boards on 120v these can be hard soldered with a jumper wire.

There are two resistors that are close to the output blocks, when installing them, leave them up a bit so they can be pushed back a little bit.

=== Board Version History ===

Revision 1 board (unreleased, development board only)

Revision 2 board (unreleased, development board only)

Revision 2.5 board (2007 Co-Op)

Revision 3.0 board (2008 Co-Op #1 and #2)

Revision 3.1 board (unreleased, development board only)

Revision 3.3 board (2008 Co-Op #3)

== Revision History ==

01/20/2007 Initial Design
03/20/2007 Revision 2 submitted to test manufacturing.
07/15/2007 Changed RJ45 to comply with current Renard standards.
07/15/2007 Added additional holes for a larger transformer.
07/15/2007 Added transformer voltage selection jumpers, will allow for 120/240v operation for our friends down under.
07/15/2007 Changed fuse size to 5x20mm fuse from AG3 fuse.
07/16/2007 Added option for DIP or SMT MOC2032 optos.
08/20/2007 Version 2.5 submitted to test manufacturing.
10/01/2007 Making small adjustments based on user feedback to ease setup of board. No major changes made.
01/14/2008 Corrected RS485 pins 4/5 to match Ren16 and Ren64
01/14/2008 Minor silkscreen corrections.
01/14/2008 Increase the size of the board to add a neutral buss onto the board.
01/14/2008 Added support for either spade terminals or screw down terminals.
02/20/2008 Added power pass through on pins 7/8 and ground on pins 1/2.
07/31/2008 Added two additional diagnostic LEDs for the diagnostic firmware.
07/31/2008 Change 4 pin input to 5 pin input to allow for easy jumpering of sides.
07/31/2008 Added jumpers below transformer for 12vac use.

Errata for Rev 1 PCB -

1) Onboard regulator not functioning properly: needed addition of 1000uF capacator. (corrected in rev 2.0 board)
2) Outputs are out of order. (corrected in rev 2.0 board)
3) Triacs are located to close together. (corrected in rev 2.0 board)

Errata for Rev 2 PCB -

1) Outputs 17/18 are swapped. (corrected in rev 2.5 board)

Errata for Rev 2.5 PCB - (Co-Op Board)
1) RS485 traces swapped from the Ren16/Ren64 pin config. (To be corrected in Rev 3.0 Board)
2) Silkscreen needs to have some clarification done for part orientation.

Errata for Rev 3.0 PCB - (Co-Op Board)
1) Some holes to small for spade tabs
2) still some spacing issues around the voltage regulator heatsink.

24 Channel Renard with SSR Assembly Instructions

2008-10-27T17:12:02Z

Monteryjack: /* BOM */

=== General Note ===
Please note: a lot of this page references version 3.3 of the board, which will be in 2008 Co-Op #3. The '''major''' differences are cosmetic on the board.

The biggest difference on all boards is from v 2.5 to v 3.0 with the RJ45 pin config correction, and the addition of the neutral buss.

Some considerations of the designs are based on the following: [[Hardware_Design_Guidelines#PCB_Design]]

=== Schematic===

[[Media:Renard64_sch_001.pdf]]
(please note, the schematic is identical to the Renard64)

=== Layout ===

[[Image:REN_24_25.jpg]]

=== COOP PCB V3.0 ===

[[Image:26-72.jpg]]

=== Co-Op Board 3.3 Assembly Instructions ===

For a full document on how to build the Renard 24, please click the following link:

http://data.kostyun.com/PDF/building_ren_24.pdf - Renard 24 Assembly Instructions

=== Testing the v 3.3 Co-Op Board===
Version 3.3 has added 7 test points (TP1 to TP7)

TP1: +5v 
TP2: GND 
TP3: +12v 
TP4: 12vac 
TP5: 12vac 
TP6: RS485A / RJ45 Pin 5 
TP7: RS485B / RJ45 Pin 4 

=== Design Notes for v 3.3 Co-Op Board===

The COMM FR LED pads are backwords - the cathode (short leg on the LED) will go into the round hole

=== Renard 24 Jumper Settings and Options ===

''Version 2.5 and Greater ''
120/240v Jumpers: Allow for setting the transformers input voltage (labeled as JP1 and JP2.) 
[[Image:120v240v.jpg]] 

Zero Cross: If on, the board will insert the zero cross signal on the RJ45 pin 3 (labeled as JP3.) This is used to send a ZC signal to another board such as a Ren64 or Ren16. 
[[Image:Zc1.jpg]] 
 

Transformer On/Off: If on, the transformer recieves power from the left power input. 
[[Image:Transformer.jpg]] 

 
''Version 3.3 and Greater ''
12v Jumpers: Located below the transformer, these can be installed to use the board in 12vac only mode (for use with MR16 LED lamps, also labeled as JP5 and JP6.) 

=== Firmware ===
All Renard Firmware is located [[Renard_Firmware]]

=== BOM ===

<pre>
PCB
1 Ren24 v3.3 Renard 24-Port PCB

Board Specific Parts: PLEASE SEE BELOW FOR v3.3 BOARD

571-7969494 1 '''See note below for v3.3'''
595-SN75176BP 2
511-L7805CV 1 '''LM7805 Voltage Regulator'''
821-DB102G 1 '''subsitute part 512-DF01M'''
532-7136DG 1 '''Heat Sink for 5V regulator'''
271-27K-RC 3 '''27k ohm 1/4 watt resistor'''
271-1K-RC 4 '''1k ohm 1/4 watt resistor'''
271-120-RC 1 '''120ohm 1/4 watt resistor'''
625-1N4001-E3 1
78-1N5239B 2
838-3FD-320 1 '''Larger Transformer use part 838-3FD-420'''
782-H11AA1 1
520-TCF1843-X 1 '''Full Size Crystal Clock Oscillators DIP-14 5V 18.432MHz'''
140-HTRL25V1000-RC 1
140-HTRL25V10-RC 1
534-3517 4
504-GMA-15 2

Parts from the Common Parts List: (Common parts are the parts that are not unique to the Ren24, and may also be used in other designs) PLEASE SEE BELOW FOR v3.3 BOARD

511-BTA08-400B 24 '''Triac Driver (24 needed) or 511-BTA04-700T more sensitive triac for LED's))'''
859-MOC3023 24 '''MOC 3023 Optocoupler'''
579-PIC16F688-I/P 3 '''Microchip PIC 16F1688'''
604-WP63ID 2 '''Red T1 3/4 LED, or any 10-30ma LED'''
604-WP1503GD 1 '''Green T1 3/4 LED or any 10-30ma LED'''
271-180-RC 24 '''180ohm 1/4 watt resistor'''
271-680-RC 27 '''680ohm 1/4 watt resistor'''
581-SA105E104MAR 5 '''.10 uF Ceramic Capacitor'''
571-9-146281-0 1 '''.100 three pin header(4 needed) Part specified is a 40 pin, cut off size that is needed.'''
571-2-382811-1 4 '''.100 Shunt (4 needed) You may also "steal" these off of old computer parts.'''
571-1-390261-2 2 '''8 pin DIP socket'''
571-1-390261-3 3 '''14 pin DIP socket'''
571-1-390261-1 25 '''Optional 6 Pin Socket for Optocoupler & H11AA1'''
571-5564161 2 '''RJ45 Sockets (2 needed) orientation doesn't matter. Specified part is same as the Ren64'''

Parts changed for board 3.0
PART OPTION #1 - Using Screw Down Terminals

571-2828376 6 '''6 Position Screw Down Terminal (Ren24 2.5 needs 4 of these)'''
158-P02EK508A3-E 4 '''3 Position Angled Screw Down Terminal'''
158-P02EHK508V3-E 1 '''3 Position Screw Down Terminal (power input)'''
158-P02EHK508V2-E 1 '''2 Position Screw Down Terminal (power input)'''

Spade Terminals

534-1287 53 '''Spade Terminals (52 needed for board v3.0)'''

Parts added for board 3.3
604-WP63ID 2 '''Two additional 680ohm 1/4 watt resistors'''
271-680-RC 2 '''Two additional Ren T1 3/4 LED's'''
571-7969495 1 '''added five pin header to jumper both hot sides REPLACES 571-7969494'''

Optional Parts for The Board:

12VAC Operation
571-9-146281-0 1 '''.100 two pin header(2 needed)'''
571-2-382811-1 2 '''.100 Shunt (2 needed) You may also "steal" these off of old computer parts.'''
838-3FD-320 0 '''Transformer is ELIMINATED from the board in thsi option'''

</pre>

** NOTE UPDATED 10/06 - I put the wrong transformer part # Old part is 838-3FD-310 [[please see here if you purchased any]].

==== PC to Renard Cable ====

The Renard 24 board has on-board power supply circuitry and on-board zero-crossing circuitry, so all that it needs on the RJ45 cable are data signals and ground. If you are using RS232 input and connecting it directly to the PC serial port, the following cable pin outs will work:

'''Version 3.0 Board:'''
PC DB9 Pin 3 to RJ45-pin 4
PC DB9 Pin 5 to RJ45-pins 1,2,5 (pins 1 and 5 are required, pin 2 is optional).
[[Image:Ren24V3.jpg]]

If you are using a RS-232 to RS-485 converter, the pinout is Pin 5 to A+
and Pin 4 to B-. This is the same as for the Ren 16.

'''Version 2.5 Board:'''
PC DB9 Pin 3 to RJ45-pin 5
PC DB9 Pin 5 to RJ45-pins 1,2,4 (pins 1 and 4 are required, pin 2 is optional).
[[Image:Ren24v25.jpg]]

'''NOTE:''' ''The 2.5 cable will not work with the Renard16, Renard64 or Ren-C boards because pins 4 and 5 on the version 2.5 Renard24 are reversed from those other boards.''

[[Image:Db9f.gif]]
'''Female DB9 connector as if you were looking into the end of it from the outside.'''

The Renard24 3.0 or greater will pass the zero cross and power to other boards connected to it (such as a Renard64 or Renard16.)

=== Design Notes for v 2.5 Co-Op Board===

Pin 1 of the crystal is on the bottom left.

Pin 1 of the transformer is on the top left.

The cathode (striped) pin of the 1N4001 diode is on the top.

The correct designation of the capacitor on the top right is .1uF, not .1F.

The + pin of the DB102 is on the bottom right both of the ~ should be on the left.

The parts list has a 100uF cap, ignore it - as its not needed (Deleted from BOM) There is a 1uF on the board, also not needed.

The 7805 (flat side) goes to the top of the board.

The heatsink for the 7805 should be trimmmed at the bottom to allow for proper fit.

The fuse clips are two tight for the board - now sure how this happened - I need to look into this more - as this is the part that I ordered last year and it fits fine.

The jumpers on the board are for 120/240v operation. If you don't plan on using the boards on 120v these can be hard soldered with a jumper wire.

There are two resistors that are close to the output blocks, when installing them, leave them up a bit so they can be pushed back a little bit.

=== Board Version History ===

Revision 1 board (unreleased, development board only)

Revision 2 board (unreleased, development board only)

Revision 2.5 board (2007 Co-Op)

Revision 3.0 board (2008 Co-Op #1 and #2)

Revision 3.1 board (unreleased, development board only)

Revision 3.3 board (2008 Co-Op #3)

== Revision History ==

01/20/2007 Initial Design
03/20/2007 Revision 2 submitted to test manufacturing.
07/15/2007 Changed RJ45 to comply with current Renard standards.
07/15/2007 Added additional holes for a larger transformer.
07/15/2007 Added transformer voltage selection jumpers, will allow for 120/240v operation for our friends down under.
07/15/2007 Changed fuse size to 5x20mm fuse from AG3 fuse.
07/16/2007 Added option for DIP or SMT MOC2032 optos.
08/20/2007 Version 2.5 submitted to test manufacturing.
10/01/2007 Making small adjustments based on user feedback to ease setup of board. No major changes made.
01/14/2008 Corrected RS485 pins 4/5 to match Ren16 and Ren64
01/14/2008 Minor silkscreen corrections.
01/14/2008 Increase the size of the board to add a neutral buss onto the board.
01/14/2008 Added support for either spade terminals or screw down terminals.
02/20/2008 Added power pass through on pins 7/8 and ground on pins 1/2.
07/31/2008 Added two additional diagnostic LEDs for the diagnostic firmware.
07/31/2008 Change 4 pin input to 5 pin input to allow for easy jumpering of sides.
07/31/2008 Added jumpers below transformer for 12vac use.

Errata for Rev 1 PCB -

1) Onboard regulator not functioning properly: needed addition of 1000uF capacator. (corrected in rev 2.0 board)
2) Outputs are out of order. (corrected in rev 2.0 board)
3) Triacs are located to close together. (corrected in rev 2.0 board)

Errata for Rev 2 PCB -

1) Outputs 17/18 are swapped. (corrected in rev 2.5 board)

Errata for Rev 2.5 PCB - (Co-Op Board)
1) RS485 traces swapped from the Ren16/Ren64 pin config. (To be corrected in Rev 3.0 Board)
2) Silkscreen needs to have some clarification done for part orientation.

Errata for Rev 3.0 PCB - (Co-Op Board)
1) Some holes to small for spade tabs
2) still some spacing issues around the voltage regulator heatsink.

24 Channel Renard with SSR Assembly Instructions

2008-10-27T17:06:26Z

Monteryjack: /* BOM */

=== General Note ===
Please note: a lot of this page references version 3.3 of the board, which will be in 2008 Co-Op #3. The '''major''' differences are cosmetic on the board.

The biggest difference on all boards is from v 2.5 to v 3.0 with the RJ45 pin config correction, and the addition of the neutral buss.

Some considerations of the designs are based on the following: [[Hardware_Design_Guidelines#PCB_Design]]

=== Schematic===

[[Media:Renard64_sch_001.pdf]]
(please note, the schematic is identical to the Renard64)

=== Layout ===

[[Image:REN_24_25.jpg]]

=== COOP PCB V3.0 ===

[[Image:26-72.jpg]]

=== Co-Op Board 3.3 Assembly Instructions ===

For a full document on how to build the Renard 24, please click the following link:

http://data.kostyun.com/PDF/building_ren_24.pdf - Renard 24 Assembly Instructions

=== Testing the v 3.3 Co-Op Board===
Version 3.3 has added 7 test points (TP1 to TP7)

TP1: +5v 
TP2: GND 
TP3: +12v 
TP4: 12vac 
TP5: 12vac 
TP6: RS485A / RJ45 Pin 5 
TP7: RS485B / RJ45 Pin 4 

=== Design Notes for v 3.3 Co-Op Board===

The COMM FR LED pads are backwords - the cathode (short leg on the LED) will go into the round hole

=== Renard 24 Jumper Settings and Options ===

''Version 2.5 and Greater ''
120/240v Jumpers: Allow for setting the transformers input voltage (labeled as JP1 and JP2.) 
[[Image:120v240v.jpg]] 

Zero Cross: If on, the board will insert the zero cross signal on the RJ45 pin 3 (labeled as JP3.) This is used to send a ZC signal to another board such as a Ren64 or Ren16. 
[[Image:Zc1.jpg]] 
 

Transformer On/Off: If on, the transformer recieves power from the left power input. 
[[Image:Transformer.jpg]] 

 
''Version 3.3 and Greater ''
12v Jumpers: Located below the transformer, these can be installed to use the board in 12vac only mode (for use with MR16 LED lamps, also labeled as JP5 and JP6.) 

=== Firmware ===
All Renard Firmware is located [[Renard_Firmware]]

=== BOM ===

<pre>
PCB
1 Ren24 v3.3 Renard 24-Port PCB

Board Specific Parts: PLEASE SEE BELOW FOR v3.3 BOARD

571-7969494 1 '''See note below for v3.3'''
595-SN75176BP 2
511-L7805CV 1 '''LM7805 Voltage Regulator'''
821-DB102G 1 '''subsitute part 512-DF01M'''
532-7136DG 1 '''Heat Sink for 5V regulator'''
271-27K-RC 3 '''27k ohm 1/4 watt resistor'''
271-1K-RC 4 '''1k ohm 1/4 watt resistor'''
271-120-RC 1 '''120ohm 1/4 watt resistor'''
625-1N4001-E3 1
78-1N5239B 2
838-3FD-320 1 '''Larger Transformer use part 838-3FD-420'''
782-H11AA1 1
520-TCF1843-X 1
140-HTRL25V1000-RC 1
140-HTRL25V10-RC 1
534-3517 4
504-GMA-15 2

Parts from the Common Parts List: (Common parts are the parts that are not unique to the Ren24, and may also be used in other designs) PLEASE SEE BELOW FOR v3.3 BOARD

511-BTA08-400B 24 '''Triac Driver (24 needed) or 511-BTA04-700T more sensitive triac for LED's))'''
859-MOC3023 24 '''MOC 3023 Optocoupler'''
579-PIC16F688-I/P 3 '''Microchip PIC 16F1688'''
604-WP63ID 2 '''Red T1 3/4 LED, or any 10-30ma LED'''
604-WP1503GD 1 '''Green T1 3/4 LED or any 10-30ma LED'''
271-180-RC 24 '''180ohm 1/4 watt resistor'''
271-680-RC 27 '''680ohm 1/4 watt resistor'''
581-SA105E104MAR 5 '''.10 uF Ceramic Capacitor'''
571-9-146281-0 1 '''.100 three pin header(4 needed) Part specified is a 40 pin, cut off size that is needed.'''
571-2-382811-1 4 '''.100 Shunt (4 needed) You may also "steal" these off of old computer parts.'''
571-1-390261-2 2 '''8 pin DIP socket'''
571-1-390261-3 3 '''14 pin DIP socket'''
571-1-390261-1 25 '''Optional 6 Pin Socket for Optocoupler & H11AA1'''
571-5564161 2 '''RJ45 Sockets (2 needed) orientation doesn't matter. Specified part is same as the Ren64'''

Parts changed for board 3.0
PART OPTION #1 - Using Screw Down Terminals

571-2828376 6 '''6 Position Screw Down Terminal (Ren24 2.5 needs 4 of these)'''
158-P02EK508A3-E 4 '''3 Position Angled Screw Down Terminal'''
158-P02EHK508V3-E 1 '''3 Position Screw Down Terminal (power input)'''
158-P02EHK508V2-E 1 '''2 Position Screw Down Terminal (power input)'''

Spade Terminals

534-1287 53 '''Spade Terminals (52 needed for board v3.0)'''

Parts added for board 3.3
604-WP63ID 2 '''Two additional 680ohm 1/4 watt resistors'''
271-680-RC 2 '''Two additional Ren T1 3/4 LED's'''
571-7969495 1 '''added five pin header to jumper both hot sides REPLACES 571-7969494'''

Optional Parts for The Board:

12VAC Operation
571-9-146281-0 1 '''.100 two pin header(2 needed)'''
571-2-382811-1 2 '''.100 Shunt (2 needed) You may also "steal" these off of old computer parts.'''
838-3FD-320 0 '''Transformer is ELIMINATED from the board in thsi option'''

</pre>

** NOTE UPDATED 10/06 - I put the wrong transformer part # Old part is 838-3FD-310 [[please see here if you purchased any]].

==== PC to Renard Cable ====

The Renard 24 board has on-board power supply circuitry and on-board zero-crossing circuitry, so all that it needs on the RJ45 cable are data signals and ground. If you are using RS232 input and connecting it directly to the PC serial port, the following cable pin outs will work:

'''Version 3.0 Board:'''
PC DB9 Pin 3 to RJ45-pin 4
PC DB9 Pin 5 to RJ45-pins 1,2,5 (pins 1 and 5 are required, pin 2 is optional).
[[Image:Ren24V3.jpg]]

If you are using a RS-232 to RS-485 converter, the pinout is Pin 5 to A+
and Pin 4 to B-. This is the same as for the Ren 16.

'''Version 2.5 Board:'''
PC DB9 Pin 3 to RJ45-pin 5
PC DB9 Pin 5 to RJ45-pins 1,2,4 (pins 1 and 4 are required, pin 2 is optional).
[[Image:Ren24v25.jpg]]

'''NOTE:''' ''The 2.5 cable will not work with the Renard16, Renard64 or Ren-C boards because pins 4 and 5 on the version 2.5 Renard24 are reversed from those other boards.''

[[Image:Db9f.gif]]
'''Female DB9 connector as if you were looking into the end of it from the outside.'''

The Renard24 3.0 or greater will pass the zero cross and power to other boards connected to it (such as a Renard64 or Renard16.)

=== Design Notes for v 2.5 Co-Op Board===

Pin 1 of the crystal is on the bottom left.

Pin 1 of the transformer is on the top left.

The cathode (striped) pin of the 1N4001 diode is on the top.

The correct designation of the capacitor on the top right is .1uF, not .1F.

The + pin of the DB102 is on the bottom right both of the ~ should be on the left.

The parts list has a 100uF cap, ignore it - as its not needed (Deleted from BOM) There is a 1uF on the board, also not needed.

The 7805 (flat side) goes to the top of the board.

The heatsink for the 7805 should be trimmmed at the bottom to allow for proper fit.

The fuse clips are two tight for the board - now sure how this happened - I need to look into this more - as this is the part that I ordered last year and it fits fine.

The jumpers on the board are for 120/240v operation. If you don't plan on using the boards on 120v these can be hard soldered with a jumper wire.

There are two resistors that are close to the output blocks, when installing them, leave them up a bit so they can be pushed back a little bit.

=== Board Version History ===

Revision 1 board (unreleased, development board only)

Revision 2 board (unreleased, development board only)

Revision 2.5 board (2007 Co-Op)

Revision 3.0 board (2008 Co-Op #1 and #2)

Revision 3.1 board (unreleased, development board only)

Revision 3.3 board (2008 Co-Op #3)

== Revision History ==

01/20/2007 Initial Design
03/20/2007 Revision 2 submitted to test manufacturing.
07/15/2007 Changed RJ45 to comply with current Renard standards.
07/15/2007 Added additional holes for a larger transformer.
07/15/2007 Added transformer voltage selection jumpers, will allow for 120/240v operation for our friends down under.
07/15/2007 Changed fuse size to 5x20mm fuse from AG3 fuse.
07/16/2007 Added option for DIP or SMT MOC2032 optos.
08/20/2007 Version 2.5 submitted to test manufacturing.
10/01/2007 Making small adjustments based on user feedback to ease setup of board. No major changes made.
01/14/2008 Corrected RS485 pins 4/5 to match Ren16 and Ren64
01/14/2008 Minor silkscreen corrections.
01/14/2008 Increase the size of the board to add a neutral buss onto the board.
01/14/2008 Added support for either spade terminals or screw down terminals.
02/20/2008 Added power pass through on pins 7/8 and ground on pins 1/2.
07/31/2008 Added two additional diagnostic LEDs for the diagnostic firmware.
07/31/2008 Change 4 pin input to 5 pin input to allow for easy jumpering of sides.
07/31/2008 Added jumpers below transformer for 12vac use.

Errata for Rev 1 PCB -

1) Onboard regulator not functioning properly: needed addition of 1000uF capacator. (corrected in rev 2.0 board)
2) Outputs are out of order. (corrected in rev 2.0 board)
3) Triacs are located to close together. (corrected in rev 2.0 board)

Errata for Rev 2 PCB -

1) Outputs 17/18 are swapped. (corrected in rev 2.5 board)

Errata for Rev 2.5 PCB - (Co-Op Board)
1) RS485 traces swapped from the Ren16/Ren64 pin config. (To be corrected in Rev 3.0 Board)
2) Silkscreen needs to have some clarification done for part orientation.

Errata for Rev 3.0 PCB - (Co-Op Board)
1) Some holes to small for spade tabs
2) still some spacing issues around the voltage regulator heatsink.

16 Channel Renard with SSR Assembly Instructions

2008-10-27T16:48:05Z

Monteryjack: /* Build Steps */

== Overview ==
*Assembly Time: 2 hours
*Skill Level: Medium

== Disclaimer ==
ALL INFORMATION WITHIN THIS DOCUMENT IS PROVIDED "AS IS" AND WITHOUT ANY EXPRESS OR IMPLIED WARRANTIES, INCLUDING, WITHOUT LIMITATION, THE IMPLIED WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTABILITY AND FITNESS FOR A PARTICULAR PURPOSE. I DO NOT GUARANTEE ANY INFORMATION IN THIS DOCUMENT IS ACCURATE, AND IT SHOULD BE USED FOR ABSTRACT EDUCATIONAL PURPOSES ONLY.

THIS FILE IS DISTRIBUTED IN THE HOPE THAT IT WILL BE USEFUL, BUT WITHOUT ANY WARRANTY; WITHOUT EVEN THE IMPLIED WARRANTY OF MERCHANTABILITY OR FITNESS FOR A PARTICULAR PURPOSE.

The standard ChristmasWiki [[Disclaimers]] also apply.

== Reference Material ==
=== Tools ===
*Bench Soldering Iron
*Silver Solder
*Flat cut dykes
*Desoldering bulb

=== Other Requirements ===
* You will need an RS232 to RS485 converter. I would suggest [http://www.ebay.com EBAY]

=== Related Documents/Links ===
* [http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-RS232-To-RS485-Data-Communication-Adapter_W0QQitemZ300121293785QQihZ020QQcategoryZ41993QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem RS485 Converter from Ebay]
*[http://www.ritzfam.com/ChristmasMadness/Renardx16SSR/Release/16cPicDimmedSSR_Parts_List_Rev1.9.xls Parts List]
* [http://www.ritzfam.com/ChristmasMadness/Renardx16SSR/Release/16CPicDimmedSSR_Theory_of_Operation_Rev1.9.pdf Theory of Operations]
* [http://www.ritzfam.com/ChristmasMadness/Renardx16SSR/Release/16CPicDimmerSSR_Rev1.9.pdf Image of Board]
* [http://www.ritzfam.com/ChristmasMadness/Renardx16SSR/Release/16CPicDimmerSSR_Rev1.9_TOP.pdf Top of PCB]
* [http://www.ritzfam.com/ChristmasMadness/Renardx16SSR/Release/16CPicDimmerSSR_Rev1.9_BOTTOM.pdf Botton of PCB]
* [http://www.ritzfam.com/ChristmasMadness/Renardx16SSR/Release/16CPicDimmerSSR_Rev1.9_SILK.pdf Silk Screen]
* [http://www.christmasinshirley.com/forum/viewforum.php?f=36 Latest PIC Code]

== Build Steps ==
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="0" width="100%"
!align=center |Install Item||align=center|Qty||align=center|Mouser P/N||align=center|Location||Notes
|-
|nowrap|1. IC sockets 6 pin ||align=center|17||align=center|571-3902611||align=center|U3-U19||Make sure they are oriented the same way as the silk screen image. U19 is oriented opposite of the others.
|-
|nowrap|2. IC Sockets 8 Pin||align=center|2||align=center|575-193308||align=center|U20 & U21||.
|-
|nowrap|3. IC Sockets 14 Pin||align=center|2||align=center|575-199314||align=center|U1 & U2||.
|-
|nowrap|4. Bossman Fuse Holder||align=center|4||align=center|504-1a3399-10||align=center|H1 & H2 pads||Make sure the notch on the fuse holder is oriented so one is on the top and the other on the bottom to properly hold the fuse. Consider soldering this with the fuse in place.
|-
|nowrap|5. Euro Sytle Terminal Blocks||align=center|11||align=center|538-398890-0302||align=center|Lower Edge of Board||.
|-
|nowrap|6. 15Kohm resistors||align=center|2||align=center|71-ccf60-15k-e3||align=center|R17 & R18||.
|-
|nowrap|7. 178ohm resistors||align=center|16||align=center|273-178-rc||align=center|R1 - R16||Orient the colored bands all the same way for ease of troubleshooting later.
|-
|nowrap|8. 10pin 680ohm bus resistor||align=center|2||align=center|266-680||align=center|above U7 & U15||.
|-
| colspan=5 align="center"|Numbered Photo - Numbers correspond to the build steps
[[Image:16Channel_Renard_SSR.jpeg]]

|-
|nowrap|9. 2 ping jumper mount||align=center|4||align=center|571-3-644456-2||align=center|J1 - J4||.
|-
|nowrap|10. Green LED||align=center|2||align=center|604-wp7104gt||align=center|Ch2Diag #1 & #2||The short leg of the led goes to the flat side of the silkscreening
|-
|nowrap|11. Monolithic Radial Capacitor||align=center|2||align=center|81-rpee41h105m4k1e12||align=center|C1 & C2||The heat sink for the 5vdc converter comes down on top of this part in C1, so it has to be bent sideways.||.
|-
|nowrap|12. Amp Modular Jacks rj45||align=center|2||align=center|571-5520251-4||Upper Right and Left||.
|-
|nowrap|13. Coated axial ceramic capacitors||align=center|2||align=center|80-c410c104m5u||C3 & C4||.
|-
|nowrap|14. Voltage Regulator||align=center|1||align=center|821-TS7805C2||5vReg||511-L7805CV should be a good Mouser Number.
|-
|nowrap|15. 8 amp Triac||align=center|16||align=center|511-BTA08-400b||Bottom of board||Be sure to solder these well as they will be carrying 110v A/C. Make sure they are lined up straight so a heat sink can be attached. Consider soldering with a heat sink already attached. 511-BTA04-700T is for the more sensitive LED Triac.
|-
|nowrap|16. 1K ohm resistors||align=center|3||align=center|660-mf1/4dc1001f||align=center|R20, R21 & R24||.
|-
|nowrap|17. Crystal Clock oscillator||align=center|1||align=center|520-tck1843-x||align=center|OSC1||.
|-
|nowrap|18. 22k ohm resistor||align=center|3||align=center|660-mf1/4dlt52r2702f||align=center|R19, R22 & R23||.
|-
| colspan=5 align="center"|Numbered Photo - Numbers correspond to the build steps
[[Image:16Channel_Renard_SSR_2.jpeg]]

|-

|nowrap|19. zener diode||align=center|1||align=center|78-in5239b||align=center|D2||.
|-
|nowrap|20. zener diode||align=center|1||align=center|512-1n5229b-t50a||align=center|D1||.
|-
|nowrap|21. 120 ohm resistor||align=center|1||align=center|660-mf1/4dct52r1200f||align=center|R26||.
|-
|nowrap|22. VR/50v diode||align=center|1||align=center|625-1n4001-e3||align=center|D3||.
|-
|nowrap|23. red led||align=center|1||align=center|604-wp7104ec||align=center|Top Center||.
|-
|nowrap|24. H11aa1||align=center|1||align=center|782-h11aa1||align=center|U19||.
|-
|nowrap|25. Rs485||align=center|2||align=center|837-isl81487eip||align=center|U20 & U21||.
|-
|nowrap|26. Pic Chips||align=center|2||align=center|11-11||align=center|#2||.
|-
|nowrap|27. fuses||align=center|2||align=center|504-gma-5||align=center|H1 & H2||.
|-
|nowrap|28. Heat Sink||align=center|1||align=center|532-574502B00||align=center|5vReg||.
|-
| colspan=5 align="center"|Here is a picture of the final product

[[Image:16Channel_Renard_SSR_Final.jpeg]]

|-

|}

== Options ==
=== 240 or 24 volt Conversion ===
The original controller was designed for operation on 110VAC and many of the parts were specified for 110V. The board will operate at other voltages, however a number of changes need to be made.

The first decision to be made is what voltage you want to switch. The triacs are responsible for switching the primary voltage. The is no reason that the primary voltage for the TRIACs could not be 240VAC or 24VAC, however the circuit will need to be modified.

One of the major changes is the ZC detect section of the controller. The original circuit specified a H11AA1 for the optoisolator, with two 15k ohm 1watt resistors for current limiting. Details on the H11AA1 can be found here

[http://www.fairchildsemi.com/ds/H1%2FH11AA1-M.pdf H11AA1 Datasheet]

I understand that the 15kΩ values are calculated as follows:

I(fwd-peak) = 5mA

V(rms) = 110 VAC RMS

V (peak) = V(rms) * 1.41 = 150VAC

R = V(peak) / I (fwd-peak) = 150V / 0.005 A = 30k ohm Two resistors of 15 k each for a total of 30k.

P = I(peak)(squared) * R = 0.005 * .005 * 15000 / 2 = 0.2W per resistor.

====12VDC switching.====

====12VAC switching.====
The peak voltage for a 12 VAC line is 12 x 1.414 = 17 V, so R = 17 V / 1 A = 17 ohms minimum. At 12VAC, rounded to 22 ohms for a standard value.

====24VAC switching.====

Parts Required and changes.

Gate Resistors - The original value for the gate resistors (item 7) was 180 ohms. For 24VAC operation, the gate resistors need to be changed to 33 ohms.

H11AA1 limiting resistors - These will need to be changed to 3.3k 1/4 watt.

====240VAC switching.====

Parts Required and changes.

Gate Resistors - The original value for the gate resistors (item 7) was 180 ohms. For 240VAC operation, the gate resistors need to be changed to 360 ohms.

H11AA1 limiting resistors - I am going to make a suggestion for the board to operate on 240VAC that will require a number of physical and electrical changes to the ZC circuit on the controller. This modification is designed to use a low voltage transformer to derive the ZC signal from, instead of the 240VAC Hot rail.

1. ''' Fit two R18s to the PCB.''' Now that the PCB has been modified, you need to fit two new R18s, appropriate for the ZC voltage the H1AA1 will be sensing.

2. '''Cutting a track.''' Looking at the copper side of the PCB, you will notice a small track common from the HOT rail to the inside H1AA11 resistor (R18). There are two R18s, and I'll refer to them as Inside and Outside R18s. The Outside R18 is the one closest to the edge of the PCB. (I'll see if I can take a picture of my board.). By cutting this track, the H11AA1 will be floating with reference to the HOT on the TRIAC (240VAC in this example).

3. '''Fitting a jumper wire.''' With the original design, you only needed to connect the White (neutral) to the 2 pole terminal block. The terminal block is located on the right hand side of the PCB, and has a '''N''' and and a '''NC''' marked on the silkscreen overlay. using a short piece of jumper wire, solder a connection between the '''NC''' on the terminal block and the hot side of the Inside R18. This will replace the track you cut in Step 2.

3. ''' Fit two R18s to the PCB.''' Now that the PCB has been modified, you need to fit two new resistors to the ZC circuit. I am going to use a 30VAC CT transformer to power my board (via a Diode rectifier circuit). Taking a tap from the transformer

=== Computer feed/power cable ===
Now you have installed all the parts, the next decision is how you will connect the controller to the PC, and how you will power the board.

The majority of the controller is run from a 5 volt DC regulator that is located on the PCB. The regulator is a 7805, and will provide a regulated 5VDC supply. The input voltage for the controller needs to be at least 9 VDC and no more than 15 VDC.

Checking the datasheet for the 7805, the minimum input voltage must be 2.0V greater than the V(out) = 7.0 V and with the input power diode (1N4001) having a Maximum Instantaneous Forward Voltage Drop of 1.1V, the absolute minimum is 8.1V. However, the system was analyzed with a VOM and a variable output power supply, and to assure 5.0VDC minimum at TP6, it is recommended to stay above 7.5VDC at TP2.

16 Channel Renard with SSR Assembly Instructions

2008-10-27T16:45:45Z

Monteryjack: /* Build Steps */

== Overview ==
*Assembly Time: 2 hours
*Skill Level: Medium

== Disclaimer ==
ALL INFORMATION WITHIN THIS DOCUMENT IS PROVIDED "AS IS" AND WITHOUT ANY EXPRESS OR IMPLIED WARRANTIES, INCLUDING, WITHOUT LIMITATION, THE IMPLIED WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTABILITY AND FITNESS FOR A PARTICULAR PURPOSE. I DO NOT GUARANTEE ANY INFORMATION IN THIS DOCUMENT IS ACCURATE, AND IT SHOULD BE USED FOR ABSTRACT EDUCATIONAL PURPOSES ONLY.

THIS FILE IS DISTRIBUTED IN THE HOPE THAT IT WILL BE USEFUL, BUT WITHOUT ANY WARRANTY; WITHOUT EVEN THE IMPLIED WARRANTY OF MERCHANTABILITY OR FITNESS FOR A PARTICULAR PURPOSE.

The standard ChristmasWiki [[Disclaimers]] also apply.

== Reference Material ==
=== Tools ===
*Bench Soldering Iron
*Silver Solder
*Flat cut dykes
*Desoldering bulb

=== Other Requirements ===
* You will need an RS232 to RS485 converter. I would suggest [http://www.ebay.com EBAY]

=== Related Documents/Links ===
* [http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-RS232-To-RS485-Data-Communication-Adapter_W0QQitemZ300121293785QQihZ020QQcategoryZ41993QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem RS485 Converter from Ebay]
*[http://www.ritzfam.com/ChristmasMadness/Renardx16SSR/Release/16cPicDimmedSSR_Parts_List_Rev1.9.xls Parts List]
* [http://www.ritzfam.com/ChristmasMadness/Renardx16SSR/Release/16CPicDimmedSSR_Theory_of_Operation_Rev1.9.pdf Theory of Operations]
* [http://www.ritzfam.com/ChristmasMadness/Renardx16SSR/Release/16CPicDimmerSSR_Rev1.9.pdf Image of Board]
* [http://www.ritzfam.com/ChristmasMadness/Renardx16SSR/Release/16CPicDimmerSSR_Rev1.9_TOP.pdf Top of PCB]
* [http://www.ritzfam.com/ChristmasMadness/Renardx16SSR/Release/16CPicDimmerSSR_Rev1.9_BOTTOM.pdf Botton of PCB]
* [http://www.ritzfam.com/ChristmasMadness/Renardx16SSR/Release/16CPicDimmerSSR_Rev1.9_SILK.pdf Silk Screen]
* [http://www.christmasinshirley.com/forum/viewforum.php?f=36 Latest PIC Code]

== Build Steps ==
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="0" width="100%"
!align=center |Install Item||align=center|Qty||align=center|Mouser P/N||align=center|Location||Notes
|-
|nowrap|1. IC sockets 6 pin ||align=center|17||align=center|571-3902611||align=center|U3-U19||Make sure they are oriented the same way as the silk screen image. U19 is oriented opposite of the others.
|-
|nowrap|2. IC Sockets 8 Pin||align=center|2||align=center|575-193308||align=center|U20 & U21||.
|-
|nowrap|3. IC Sockets 14 Pin||align=center|2||align=center|575-199314||align=center|U1 & U2||.
|-
|nowrap|4. Bossman Fuse Holder||align=center|4||align=center|504-1a3399-10||align=center|H1 & H2 pads||Make sure the notch on the fuse holder is oriented so one is on the top and the other on the bottom to properly hold the fuse. Consider soldering this with the fuse in place.
|-
|nowrap|5. Euro Sytle Terminal Blocks||align=center|11||align=center|538-398890-0302||align=center|Lower Edge of Board||.
|-
|nowrap|6. 15Kohm resistors||align=center|2||align=center|71-ccf60-15k-e3||align=center|R17 & R18||.
|-
|nowrap|7. 178ohm resistors||align=center|16||align=center|273-178-rc||align=center|R1 - R16||Orient the colored bands all the same way for ease of troubleshooting later.
|-
|nowrap|8. 10pin 680ohm bus resistor||align=center|2||align=center|266-680||align=center|above U7 & U15||.
|-
| colspan=5 align="center"|Numbered Photo - Numbers correspond to the build steps
[[Image:16Channel_Renard_SSR.jpeg]]

|-
|nowrap|9. 2 ping jumper mount||align=center|4||align=center|571-3-644456-2||align=center|J1 - J4||.
|-
|nowrap|10. Green LED||align=center|2||align=center|604-wp7104gt||align=center|Ch2Diag #1 & #2||The short leg of the led goes to the flat side of the silkscreening
|-
|nowrap|11. Monolithic Radial Capacitor||align=center|2||align=center|81-rpee41h105m4k1e12||align=center|C1 & C2||The heat sink for the 5vdc converter comes down on top of this part in C1, so it has to be bent sideways.||.
|-
|nowrap|12. Amp Modular Jacks rj45||align=center|2||align=center|571-5520251-4||Upper Right and Left||.
|-
|nowrap|13. Coated axial ceramic capacitors||align=center|2||align=center|80-c410c104m5u||C3 & C4||.
|-
|nowrap|14. Voltage Regulator||align=center|1||align=center|821-TS7805C2||5vReg||511-L7805CV should be a good Mouser Number.
|-
|nowrap|15. 8 amp Triac||align=center|16||align=center|511-BTA08-400b||Bottom of board||Be sure to solder these well as they will be carrying 110v A/C. Make sure they are lined up straight so a heat sink can be attached. Consider soldering with a heat sink already attached
|-
|nowrap|16. 1K ohm resistors||align=center|3||align=center|660-mf1/4dc1001f||align=center|R20, R21 & R24||.
|-
|nowrap|17. Crystal Clock oscillator||align=center|1||align=center|520-tck1843-x||align=center|OSC1||.
|-
|nowrap|18. 22k ohm resistor||align=center|3||align=center|660-mf1/4dlt52r2702f||align=center|R19, R22 & R23||.
|-
| colspan=5 align="center"|Numbered Photo - Numbers correspond to the build steps
[[Image:16Channel_Renard_SSR_2.jpeg]]

|-

|nowrap|19. zener diode||align=center|1||align=center|78-in5239b||align=center|D2||.
|-
|nowrap|20. zener diode||align=center|1||align=center|512-1n5229b-t50a||align=center|D1||.
|-
|nowrap|21. 120 ohm resistor||align=center|1||align=center|660-mf1/4dct52r1200f||align=center|R26||.
|-
|nowrap|22. VR/50v diode||align=center|1||align=center|625-1n4001-e3||align=center|D3||.
|-
|nowrap|23. red led||align=center|1||align=center|604-wp7104ec||align=center|Top Center||.
|-
|nowrap|24. H11aa1||align=center|1||align=center|782-h11aa1||align=center|U19||.
|-
|nowrap|25. Rs485||align=center|2||align=center|837-isl81487eip||align=center|U20 & U21||.
|-
|nowrap|26. Pic Chips||align=center|2||align=center|11-11||align=center|#2||.
|-
|nowrap|27. fuses||align=center|2||align=center|504-gma-5||align=center|H1 & H2||.
|-
|nowrap|28. Heat Sink||align=center|1||align=center|532-574502B00||align=center|5vReg||.
|-
| colspan=5 align="center"|Here is a picture of the final product

[[Image:16Channel_Renard_SSR_Final.jpeg]]

|-

|}

== Options ==
=== 240 or 24 volt Conversion ===
The original controller was designed for operation on 110VAC and many of the parts were specified for 110V. The board will operate at other voltages, however a number of changes need to be made.

The first decision to be made is what voltage you want to switch. The triacs are responsible for switching the primary voltage. The is no reason that the primary voltage for the TRIACs could not be 240VAC or 24VAC, however the circuit will need to be modified.

One of the major changes is the ZC detect section of the controller. The original circuit specified a H11AA1 for the optoisolator, with two 15k ohm 1watt resistors for current limiting. Details on the H11AA1 can be found here

[http://www.fairchildsemi.com/ds/H1%2FH11AA1-M.pdf H11AA1 Datasheet]

I understand that the 15kΩ values are calculated as follows:

I(fwd-peak) = 5mA

V(rms) = 110 VAC RMS

V (peak) = V(rms) * 1.41 = 150VAC

R = V(peak) / I (fwd-peak) = 150V / 0.005 A = 30k ohm Two resistors of 15 k each for a total of 30k.

P = I(peak)(squared) * R = 0.005 * .005 * 15000 / 2 = 0.2W per resistor.

====12VDC switching.====

====12VAC switching.====
The peak voltage for a 12 VAC line is 12 x 1.414 = 17 V, so R = 17 V / 1 A = 17 ohms minimum. At 12VAC, rounded to 22 ohms for a standard value.

====24VAC switching.====

Parts Required and changes.

Gate Resistors - The original value for the gate resistors (item 7) was 180 ohms. For 24VAC operation, the gate resistors need to be changed to 33 ohms.

H11AA1 limiting resistors - These will need to be changed to 3.3k 1/4 watt.

====240VAC switching.====

Parts Required and changes.

Gate Resistors - The original value for the gate resistors (item 7) was 180 ohms. For 240VAC operation, the gate resistors need to be changed to 360 ohms.

H11AA1 limiting resistors - I am going to make a suggestion for the board to operate on 240VAC that will require a number of physical and electrical changes to the ZC circuit on the controller. This modification is designed to use a low voltage transformer to derive the ZC signal from, instead of the 240VAC Hot rail.

1. ''' Fit two R18s to the PCB.''' Now that the PCB has been modified, you need to fit two new R18s, appropriate for the ZC voltage the H1AA1 will be sensing.

2. '''Cutting a track.''' Looking at the copper side of the PCB, you will notice a small track common from the HOT rail to the inside H1AA11 resistor (R18). There are two R18s, and I'll refer to them as Inside and Outside R18s. The Outside R18 is the one closest to the edge of the PCB. (I'll see if I can take a picture of my board.). By cutting this track, the H11AA1 will be floating with reference to the HOT on the TRIAC (240VAC in this example).

3. '''Fitting a jumper wire.''' With the original design, you only needed to connect the White (neutral) to the 2 pole terminal block. The terminal block is located on the right hand side of the PCB, and has a '''N''' and and a '''NC''' marked on the silkscreen overlay. using a short piece of jumper wire, solder a connection between the '''NC''' on the terminal block and the hot side of the Inside R18. This will replace the track you cut in Step 2.

3. ''' Fit two R18s to the PCB.''' Now that the PCB has been modified, you need to fit two new resistors to the ZC circuit. I am going to use a 30VAC CT transformer to power my board (via a Diode rectifier circuit). Taking a tap from the transformer

=== Computer feed/power cable ===
Now you have installed all the parts, the next decision is how you will connect the controller to the PC, and how you will power the board.

The majority of the controller is run from a 5 volt DC regulator that is located on the PCB. The regulator is a 7805, and will provide a regulated 5VDC supply. The input voltage for the controller needs to be at least 9 VDC and no more than 15 VDC.

Checking the datasheet for the 7805, the minimum input voltage must be 2.0V greater than the V(out) = 7.0 V and with the input power diode (1N4001) having a Maximum Instantaneous Forward Voltage Drop of 1.1V, the absolute minimum is 8.1V. However, the system was analyzed with a VOM and a variable output power supply, and to assure 5.0VDC minimum at TP6, it is recommended to stay above 7.5VDC at TP2.