doityourselfchristmas.com - User contributions [en]

LEDTRIKS Panel

2012-01-22T11:01:18Z

Wjohn: /* Background */

== Background ==

Building the LED Panel for the LEDTRIKS was one of those ' do your mind in' jobs! Sitting down with a piece of pegboard, 768 LEDs, copper wire, and a day off was not what a lot of people call fun.

After some discussion in the Forum, it was decided to have fabricated a PCB panel for a LEDTRIKS controller. Optimum spacing was discussed, and 1/2 inch was agreed. Therefore, three PCBs of 8 x 8 inches would make a great panel.

== Introduction to the LEDTRIKS LED Panel ==

Designed in 2008, the single 8 x 8 inch panel forms 1/3 of the full panel required for a LEDTRIKS display.

[[File:LEDTRIKS PANEL PCB.JPG|350px|center|LEDTRIKS LED Panel]]

== Availability ==

Orignally COOPed in 2008 by Frank, the boards are soon to be available from John (wjohn) and Chris (g2ktcf‎)

LEDTRIKS Panel

2012-01-22T10:58:49Z

Wjohn: Created page with ' == Background == Building the LED Panel for the LEDTRIKS was one of those ' do your mind in' jobs! Sitting down with a piece of pegboard, 768 LEDs, copper wire, and a day off w…'

== Background ==

Building the LED Panel for the LEDTRIKS was one of those ' do your mind in' jobs! Sitting down with a piece of pegboard, 768 LEDs, copper wire, and a day off was not what a lot of people call fun.

After some discussion in the Forum, it was decided to have fabricated a PCB panel for a LEDTRIKS controller. Optimum spacing was discussed, and 1/2 inch was agreed. Therefore, three PCBs of 8 x 8 inches
would make a great panel.

== Introduction to the LEDTRIKS LED Panel ==

Designed in 2008, the single 8 x 8 inch panel forms 1/3 of the full panel required for a LEDTRIKS display.

[[File:LEDTRIKS PANEL PCB.JPG|350px|center|LEDTRIKS LED Panel]]

== Availability ==

Orignally COOPed in 2008 by Frank, the boards are soon to be available from John (wjohn) and Chris (g2ktcf‎)

File:LEDTRIKS PANEL PCB.JPG

2012-01-22T10:49:15Z

Wjohn:

Electronics Hardware

2012-01-22T10:48:15Z

Wjohn: /* LedTriks */

This page contains links to ChristmasWiki entries relating to electronics hardware. It also has an overview of various types of DIY hardware that works with [[Vixen]] software.

==Links==

[[Hardware Design Guidelines]]- The DIYC community standard for hardware design. It is recommended that you check your electronic device and PCB designs against this standard.

[[Co-Op Boards and Assembly Instructions]]- Assembly instructions and documentation on boards that can be obtained through a DIYC COOP.

[[Comparison of DIY Boards]]- Charts that compare statistics on various COOP boards, including their channel count, cost, and COOP status.

[[Renard Main Page]]- Renard is a simple PIC-Based Light Dimmer Controller for use with Vixen.

[[Solid State Relays]]- Solid State Relays (SSRs) are used for switching of mains-voltage lights in a computerized display.

[[DMX to Grinch/595 convertor]]- How to make your Grinch speak DMX.

[[Olsen 595]]- How to make an Olsen 595 controller at home.

[[DMX ROBO Spot Light]]- How to build a Robotic Full Color Spotlight.

[[Control boards and Contacts]]- list of board designs found on DIYC and contact sources for them.

[[Compatible Serial Adapters]]- list of known serial port adapters that will work with our displays.

==Overview of DIY Hardware Approaches That Work With Vixen==

This section provides information about Do-It-Yourself (DIY) hardware that works with the [[Vixen]] software program. Vixen is a Windows (.NET Framework 2) program that runs on a PC, and is used to create and run light shows that may be synchronized to music. Here is a brief list of the DIY approaches that you can take that will work with Vixen.

===Non-Dimmable Light Controllers===

====SSR Direct Attach====

* Controlled through: Parallel Port
* Documentation: [[Solid State Relays]]

If you need 12 or fewer channels, you can just buy or build SSRs and connect them to the parallel port on your PC, and use them to turn 110VAC light strings (or just plain lamps) on and off (no dimming). These ssrs must be sourced or positive switched. From time to time there are coop buys of SSR boards,but these are usually sinked, and/or parts, to reduce your expense. You could place a couple ULN2803s and use the coop sinked ssrs. For more information on this come over to the forum and/or ask on the LiveChat.

====Kit74====
*Controlled through: Parallel Port

This is a kit with mechanical relays that can be purchased from various places. It is similar to the SSR Direct Attach, although the mechanical relays are noisy and have a limited lifespan. There are probably other similar kits available as well.

====Hill320====
* Controlled through: Parallel Port
* Documentation: http://computerchristmas.com/christmas/link-how_to/HowToId-4/How_To_Build_A_Parallel_Port_Controller_Box

This is a controller originally designed by Hill Robertson http://computerchristmas.com to allow up to 320 channels to be controlled by a PC, and requires an external power supply and SSRs. There isn't any coop board for this design at the moment. It is a more complicated design, and it is not currently recommended for newbies.

====Olsen 595/Grinch====
*Controlled through: Parallel Port
*Documentation: [[The GRINCH Controller]], [[GRINCH Controller Assembly Instructions]]
*Documentation: [[Olsen 595]]

This is a popular controller based on an approach first popularized on the http://computerchristmas.com and/or http://planetchristmas.com forums by Peter Olsen. In its first incarnation it used 8-bit 74HC595 logic chips, often with external buffers, while a later design (Grinch), popularized by Robert Jordan, uses 16-bit chips specialized for this use. There are coop boards available for both of these designs. These coop boards need external power supplies, and work with external (coop) SSR boards to control AC lighting.

There are some variations of this approach that support dimming, but they are not as popular and there aren't any coop boards available. However, using a [[Ren-C]] board can add dimming capability to a 595 or Grinch, which causes the board to operate as a Renard board. There is also an option available to run a Grinch or 595 controller from DMX with full dimming capability [[DMX_to_Grinch/595_convertor | HERE]].

The Grinch board is a good choice if you need more than 12 channels but want a board that is simple to build. It doesn't use very many parts, and is easy to assemble.

===Dimmable Light Controllers===
====Firegod====
*Controlled through : Serial Port
*Documentation: [[Firegod]]

This is a modular system that supports 32 to 128 channels per serial port, in increments of 32 channels, with 100 levels of dimming (using pulse width modulation - PWM). It consists of a host controller module and one to four field modules. The SSRs are not included on these boards, and must be provided separately. The interface to this system is RS-232. This system is available on a coop basis from time to time, with the kits including the boards, the parts, and pre-programmed microcontroller chips (PICs). This board is intermediate in complexity to build.

====Renard====
*Controlled through: Serial Port
*Documentation: [[Renard]] (general info) and info on [[Renard Main Page | Renard Boards]]

This is another modular system that supports a varying number of channels, depending on baud rate selection. It supports 256 levels of dimming, and can be configured with or without PWM, or for use in DC applications. There are several coop boards available for this system with varying capabilities. It can be a fairly complex system because there are so many options. More information is available at the link listed above.

====Lynx====
*Controlled through: [[DMX]]
*Manual [[LYNX_Controller_Manual]]
The Lynx is a DIY dimmer design that uses [[DMX]] as its protocol but uses standard Cat5 cable for interconnections. It's designed to be similar to the layout of commercially available dimmers (LOR, AL, etc). It is an all in one unit that has its own power supply and SSR's built into it. You connect your DMX Cat5 and plug it in. Lights plug into female cord connections that exit from the board. It allows for a full 256 levels of dimming. The starting address is programmed via vixen. Since it uses the DMX protocol you can run 512 channels of Lynx on one DMX universe at 25ms timming.

In an effort to prevent variations in the design (leading to complications for the newer builders), insure that troubleshooting help can be provided, and keep the total cost as low as possible it is done as a modified coop. All the parts including the PCB and an enclosure are included. The necessary PIC microprocessor will come with the program preloaded so that the builder will not need a PIC programmer. A detailed instruction manual with pictures is included and should allow anyone with basic soldering skills to successfully build the controller.

====Helix====
*Controlled through: Standalone
*Documentation: [[Helix]]

The Helix is a standalone, networkable, modular system that supports a virtually unlimited number of channels. It supports 256 levels of PWM dimming. A Helix system consists of a Helix Main board and up to three Helix Daughter boards. Each Main board and Daughter board can control up to 32 channels. The Main board and basic Daughter board uses the standard four channel SSR boards. There is a 32ch SSR Daughter board that has the SSRs integrated with a basic Daughter board. If more than 128 channels are needed another Helix system can be added to form a Helix Network. These systems stay sync’d via a wireless XBee link. Up to 251 additional Helix systems can be added to the Helix Network as long as they are within radio range of the first Helix system. This allows up to 32,128 channels in a pure Helix system.

Since it is a standalone system, the Helix is a fairly complex system to build and operate. In an effort to minimize the complexity, the design and firmware are configuration controlled by the original system designer, Gregory Bartlett (gmbartlett). The PCBs and preprogrammed EEPROMs are available from him. All PCBs are bare except for the Helix Main Board. Since it requires a surface mount microSD card socket, this part comes presoldered.

===Other Controllers (Signs, Servos, etc.)===
====LedTriks====
*Controlled through: Parallel Port
*Documentation: [[LedTriks Controller Assembly Instructions]] [http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=File:LEDTriks_Wiring_Schematic.pdf LedTriks Wiring Diagram]

This board controls low-voltage LED panel and was designed by Robert Jordan. These panels are typically 16 LEDs high by 48 LEDs wide, for a total of 768 LEDs. Vixen can control up to four panels through one parallel port, and can even display text.

One of the problems with the original LedTriks design was the load placed on the PC to chunk the data out the parallel port. The Triks-C and the PIX-C controllers were created to address these shortcomings.

=====Triks-C=====
*Controlled through: Serial port or USB/serial adapter.
*Documentation: [[TRIKSC]], [http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/images/4/42/TRIKSC_CONTROLLER_v.0.1_manual.pdf Manual in PDF format]

This is a an add-on controller/processor for the LedTriks. The TRIKS-C uses an ATMEL processor to take a LedTriks file and send it out to the LedTriks Controller, via the serial port.

=====LEDTRIKS LED PANELS=====
*Connected to LEDTRIKS Controller: via CAT5 cables.
*Documentation: [[LEDTRIKS Panel]]

This is a an add-on controller/processor for the LedTriks. The TRIKS-C uses an ATMEL processor to take a LedTriks file and send it out to the LedTriks Controller, via the serial port.

=====PIX-C=====
*Controlled through: Serial port or USB/serial adapter.
*Documentation: [[PIX-C]]

This is an add-on controller/processor for the LedTriks. It is backward compatible with the TRIKS-C, and is based on the Microchip 16F688 processor.

====JEC Pixel Displays====
*Controlled through: [[DMX]]

Pixels are a stand-alone lighting fixture controlled by DMX-512. Each pixel has banks of red, green and blue wide-angle LEDs, currently six of each. Firmware is available in two versions: 3 and 4 channel. 3 channel requires a dmx channel for red, green and blue intensity. Four channel adds master intensity control to the original three.

Pixels require a stiff +12v switching power supply. Each circuit board draws ~ 130 mA at full brightness. Pixels chain together using standard CAT5 networking cable. Per the DMX spec, no more than 32 pixels should be connected together without using an optosplitter / signal buffer.

LED refresh rate is nearly 100 Hz.

More details can be found at http://www.response-box.com/rgblights

Currently in progress is a version of the firmware which will allow the DMX address to be changed in the field. Currently the address is hard-coded.

====rgbLED====
* Controlled through: Serial Port

The RGB LED's will have the ability to make hundreds of colors with a single led. They can be controlled individually, series, or parallel with each other. These are not able to be addressable individually as they have no control onboard. You will have to use DCSSR's, Franks Ren24LV, or a Grinch to turn each channel on and off to get the desired color. Each RGB LED will use 3 channels, 1 for each color. These would give you the ability to make strings out of these to have any color you want. It will also use less power compared to standard mini lights.

More information to follow as I start my testing.

====Color Stick====
* Controlled through: [[DMX]]
* Documentation: [[Color Stick]]

The color stick is an 8-channel RGB display that uses 16 RGB 5050-sized LEDs, two per channel. The color sticks can be connected end-to-end as they pass DMX.

====Kostyun RGB+W Super Strip Flood====
* Documentation: [[Super Strip]]

====RS485 Splitter====
* Documentation: [[RS485 Splitter]]

The RS485 splitter is a 4-port non-isolated splitter, designed for driving the color stick, but useful for driving any RS485 devices, including DMX or Renard.

====F.A.S.T. Finally Affordable Snowfall Tube====
* Documentation: [[FAST Finally Affordable Snowfall Tube]]

=='''Solid State Relays (SSRs)'''==

*Documentation: [[Solid_State_Relays]]
Solid State Relays are stand alone devices that work between a lighting controller and strands of lights or other devices. There are both AC and DC versions.

.

=='''FM Transmitters & Antennas''' ==

*Documentation: [http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=FM_Transmitters General info on FM transmitters and links to pages describing specific models of transmitters]

*Documentation: [http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=Radio_Station Information on how to be a radio station when your show is not playing.]

Almost everyone that builds a system to synchronize their lights to music broadcasts that music on a local FM frequency. This section covers the DIY aspects of FM Transmitters and Antennas.

.

=='''Pictures of Various Coop Boards (mostly assembled)'''==
<gallery caption="Coop Boards (mostly assembled)" widths="150px" heights="150px" perrow="4">

Image:SSRneon_G2_BUILT.jpg‎|[[SSRneon G2 (solid state relay)]]
Image:SSROZ 2.5a (small).jpg|[[4_Channel_SSROZ_Assembly_Instructions | SSR (solid state relay)]]
Image:SSRez.jpg|[[SSRez | SSR (solid state relay ez)]]
Image: coop595.jpg|[[64_Channel_Olsen_595_Controller_Assembly_Instructions | 595 Coop Board]]
Image: Coopgrinch.jpg|[[GRINCH_Controller_Assembly_Instructions | Grinch]]
Image: Ren24.jpg|[[24 Channel Renard with SSR Assembly Instructions | Renard by FKostyun: 24 ports with on-board power supply and SSRs]]
Image:Wiki_-_Renard_SS8_Complete.jpg|Renard SS 8
Image:Wiki_-_Renard_SS16_Completed_Board.jpg|Renard SS 16
Image:Wiki_-_Renard_SS24_Completed_Board.jpg|Renard SS 24
Image:xmus.jpg|[[16_Channel_Renard_with_SSRs | Ren16 (xmus)]]
Image:USBtoDMX.jpg|RPM USB to DMX Adapter
Image:DMX4SSR.jpg|RPM DMX4 SSR
Image:DMX16SSR_PCBOARD.JPG|RPM DMX16 SSR
Image:DMX8-DCSSR-Board.jpg|RPM DMX8 DC SSR
Image:Grinch_DMX_Dimmer_V2.jpg|[[DMX_to_Grinch/595_convertor |RPM Grinch DMX Dimming Adapter]]
Image:DMX16SSR_Completed.JPG|RPM DMX16 DC SSR
Image:Ren48LSD-v3c-Construction-0.png|[[Ren48LSDv3c | Ren48LSD v3c]]
Image:Ren-w-2009.jpg|[[Renard Wireless Converter | Renard Wireless Converter]]

</gallery>

==Commercial Products Supported By Vixen==

===Digital Input/Output Cards===

*[[PCI-DIO-96]] by National Instruments
*[http://www.elexol.com/IO_Modules/USB_IO_24.php Elexol USB I/O 24] - ([http://lights.onthefive.com/vixen-plugins Plugin] by Jonathon Reinhart)
*[http://www.elexol.com/IO_Modules/Ether_IO_24.php Elexol Ether I/O 24] - ([http://lights.onthefive.com/vixen-plugins Plugin] by Jonathon Reinhart)

[[Category:DIYC Home]]
[[Category:DIYC Hardware]]
[[Category:DIYC Controllers]]
[[Category:General Info]]
[[Category:DIYC Index]]

SSRez

2012-01-07T10:33:06Z

Wjohn: /* Why Another SSR? */

[[Image:SSRez2.JPG|right|Version 1.3a]]

==Why ''Another'' SSR? ==

There are lots of SSR designs out there. However, John's SSRoz is one of the best. It is compact and functions great and without this initial work, the SSRez may not exist! However, a shortcoming of the design was that it was not designed with a specific enclosure in mind. The initial move towards the SSRez involved changing the layout to fit the TA-200 Telephone Demarc Enclosure from [http://www.yourbroadbandstore.com/product.php?pid=701663 YourBroadbandStore.com].


In order to keep the board to a minimum size and the board cost down, the SSRoz has all the neutral connections off board. So, take all the neutrals and connect them with a large wire nut (five 16AWG neutrals!) Once connected, where does the massive chuck of wire go? :) This led to adding terminals for the neutrals...now this is not inexpensive. The cost was offset in part by removing the vertical fuse holder and replacing it with inexpensive fuse clips.

Lastly, the RJ45 connector could be difficult to remove with the locking pin as the pin ends up in a tight corner. A vertical RJ45 jack made this so much easier. Now, some users like the right angle connection. The great thing is that both types will fit the board. So, if you want the "Dino Option" feel free to use the right angled connector.

While changing every thing around, the power traces were beefed up a bit to allow a slightly higher power throughput. This allows for a 7A fuse in place of the original SSRoz fuse of 5A.

so....start out trying to change one problem..and end up with a whole new layout! 

The SSRez can be used as is for most all of the designs found here on DIYC. Some specific uses may require the Bill of Materials to be modified. If the information is not 100% clear, please ask!

==SSRez Features==
<ul>
<li>Designed to fit in the TA-200 Enclosure</li>
<li>Made with 2oz Copper boards for 7A total capacity</li>
<li>Trace spacing supports 240VAC use</li>
<li>RJ45 Jack layout for Top or Side Load for flexibility</li>
<li>On board 5V Logic Power LED</li>
<li>Triac layout designed with Heat Sinks in mind</li>
<li>Separate Terminals for each wire making the connections easier</li>
<li>Wiring "channel" makes the connections easier</li>
<li>Clean and Distinct Low Voltage/High Voltage Isolation</li>
<li>Fuse Position and layout allows for the Optional Fuse Cover</li>
</ul>

== Disclaimers ==

'''PLEASE NOTE: THE OVERLAY FOR THE TRIACS IS INCORRECT FOR Version 1.3. THE TAB SHOULD FACE THE BOTTOM OF THE BOARD, NOT THE TOP. Rev 1.3a is correct and is now shipping'''

''The standard disclaimers apply to the SSRez and can be found [[Disclaimers |here.]]''

== Schematic ==

[[Image: SSRez_Schematic.jpg|300px|center|Small Schematic]]

The pdf file can be found [[Media:SSRez-sch.pdf | here]]

== PCB overlay V 1.3 e ==

[[Image: SSRez V1 3 e overlay sm.jpg|300px|center|PCB Overlay]]

This is the current version of the SSRez (1.3e) with the neon indicator.

== Bill of Materials ==
[https://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=12efc54e27 Mouser BOM]

<pre style="font-size: 10pt">
QTY Mouser #: Description
1 571-5556416-1 Modular Jacks 8 PCB TOP ENTRY marked RJ45
1 504-GMC-7 5mm x 20mm Medium Time Delay Fuses 125VAC 7A Med Time Delay
4 511-BTA04-700T Triacs 4 Amp 700 Volt marked Q1, Q2, Q3, and Q4
2 534-3517 Fuse Clips and Holders PC FUSE CLIP 5 MM
1 604-WP7104IT LED Standard HI EFF RED TRANS marked LED
5 660-CF1/4C681J 1/4Watt Axial Leaded Carbon Film Resistors 680ohms 5% marked R5, R6, R7, R8 and R9
4 660-CF1/4C181J 1/4Watt Axial Leaded Carbon Film Resistors 180ohms 5% marked R1, R2, R3 and R4
4 859-MOC3023 Optocomponents Optocoupler TRIAC marked U1, U2, U3 and U4
4 571-1-390261-1 IC Sockets 6P ECONOMY TIN (Optional!) also marked U1, U2, U3 and U4
5 571-28228372 Terminal Blocks 5.08MM PCB MOUNT 2P
3 Screw,#8x1/2" Pan Head Sheet Metal
1 TA-200 Enclosure
1 Male Plug Power Cord, Rated for 8A Minimum
4 Female Plug Power Cord, Rated for 4A Minimum
1 534-3527C Fuse Cover (Optional)
1 TBD Resistor, 1/4W, 100kOhm (Optional for Revision 1.3e Boards)
1 TBD AC Indicator Lamp (Optional for Revision 1.3e Boards)
</pre>

Now the above is the base Bill of Materials for 120VAC operation. There are, however, some options that can be handled. These are listed below.

----

''240VAC Operation''

Change R1, R2, R3 and R4 to 330 Ohm and replace the fuse with one rated for 240VAC (one listed is for 125VAC). However, a fuse with a rating of 7A at 250VAC is a heck of alot of power. It is perfectly okay to use a fuse with a lower rating if your overall load is small.

----

''36 VAC Operations'' for those folks ''Down Under'' using toroidal transformers...

Change R1, R2, R3 and R4 to 47 Ohm. The fuse rating is still a MAX of 7A. It does not change because the voltage has been reduced.

----

''24 VAC Operations'' for those folks ''Down Under'' using toroidal transformers...

Change R1, R2, R3 and R4 to 33 Ohm. The fuse rating is still a MAX of 7A. It does not change because the voltage has been reduced.

----

''FireGod''

If the SSRez is going to be used with a FireGod system, Resistors R5-R8 may need to be changed. If the channel LEDs are used on the field modules AND the interface board voltage regulator is 5VDC, replace R5, R6, R7, R8, and R9 with 510 Ohm Resistors. You must also use the "Sinking Code" in the FireGod Field Modules when using the SSRez.

== Construction Information ==

Oh, many of you will be building more than one SSRez at a time. An assembly line mindset really helps. This means, put all the resistors on all the boards before going to the next part.

Now, get your [http://www.christmasinshirley.com/wiki/index.php?title=DIYC_Tools tools] together! Cause here we we go.....

1. Sort your parts in the order of assembly. This sounds odd but really helps especially if you have never done this type of assembly before.
[[File:SSRez_Step1.jpg|200px|center]]
2. Check your resistors...make sure the part matches whats written on the bag. Every once in a while, the supplier will give you the wrong part. It never hurts to grab a mulitmeter and check those resistors values. Hmmmmm...how to read the color bands on the resistors can be found [http://www.christmasinshirley.com/wiki/index.php?title=Helpful_Info/Links here.]

3. Inspect your boards for damage. Basically, you are looking for cut traces, deep scratches and other damages since they were shipped.
[[File:SSRez_Step3.jpg|200px|center]]
4. Install the 5 680 Ohm Resistors marked R5, R6, R7, R8 and R9 [blue, silver, red, gold]. Bend them first to match the holes (I have been known to bend all my resistors while watching TV!) Insert them through the holes and bend the lead back to about 60 deg on both side to hold them in place. Solder each connection and trim off the excess lead with flush cut snips. '''Note:''' Some electronics folks will tell you to do this differently. There is a high specification soldering procedure (typically for military items) that says to cut the leads to length, and then solder them in place. This will work but this level of detail is not required for this board.
[[File:SSRez_Step4.jpg|200px|center]]
5. Install the 4 180 Ohm Resistors [brown, silver, red, gold] for 120VAC operation or the 330 ohm resistors [orange, orange, red, gold] for 240VAC operation. These are marked R1, R2, R3 and R4. The installation process is the same as in Step #4.
[[File:SSRez_Step5.jpg|200px|center]]
6. Install the optional 6 pin sockets for U1, U2, U3 and U4. Beware of the orientation of the notch. This is a visual aid to make sure that you put the [http://www.christmasinshirley.com/wiki/index.php?title=Glossary#M MOCs] in correctly. Match the notch with the notch in the silkscreen. Sometimes, a piece of tape can help here. I usually put all four on, cover them with a board and just flip it over. Solder the six pins on each socket. If you choose not to install the sockets, then install the 4 MOCs here in the same manner.
[[File:SSRez_Step6.jpg|200px|center]]
7. Install the Power LED. Orientation is critical. The short leg (the Cathode or K) of the LED must go into the square pad. The silkscreen has this marked with a ''K'' Bend the legs out to a 60 deg angle to hold the LED in place. Then solder the leads and trim the excess.
[[File:SSRez_Step7.jpg|200px|center]]
8. The fuse clips are next. Be aware the orientation of these as well. There is a small ridge inside the clip to keep the fuse from sliding out axially. This ridge must go to the side opposite the fuse. Using a fuse to hold the two clips in place while soldering has been suggested.
[[File:SSRez_Step8.jpg|200px|center]]

9. The 5 terminal blocks are next. The terminals must be assembled first. There is a notch and a pin on the side to mate the 5 parts into on long 10 position terminal. Once assembled, insert the block into the board with the openings for the wires facing outboard. Starting from the middle and working outward, solder in all the pins. These pins are a bit larger and can take more heat and solder than the previous items.
[[File:SSRez_Step9.jpg|200px|center]]

10. Now its time for the the TRIACs. These pins are large and they can be difficult to solder at first. If you have problems...[http://www.christmasinshirley.com/wiki/index.php?title=Glossary#T tin] the leads prior to inserting them into the boards. Solder the pins in place and trim the excess.''' NOTE for Ver 1.3!!! : THE SILKSCREEN FOR THE TRIACS IS INCORRECT. THE TAB SHOULD FACE THE BOTTOM OF THE BOARD (THE RJ45 Side), NOT THE TOP. Version 1.3a has the corrected Silkscreen'''
[[File:SSRez_Step10.jpg|200px|center]]

11. Last, but not least, install the RJ45 Jack. The jack should snap into the 2 large mounting holes and hold itself in place. The pins are very small and solder very fast so be careful not to add too much solder.

12. Clean the board with Isopropyl Alchohol to remove any residual flux.

13. Using good lighting and a magnifier, inspect all the solder joints. Solder bridges, cold joints, too little solder and too much solder are typical errors.

14. Install the 4 MOCs if you did not in Step #6. Watch the orientation by keeping the notch in the same direction as the silk screen.

15. Install the fuse.
[[File:SSRez_Step15.jpg|200px|center]]

16. Mount the SSRez into the enclosure by using 3 each #8x1/2" Pan head zinc coated sheet metal screws. The screw size is defined by the enclosure bosses. The screw may get a touch tight as it makes the final last few mm.
[[Image:SSRezEnclosure.JPG|200px|center|SSRez in TA-200 Enclosure]]

17. Pull the small rubber inserts on the bottom on the enclosure and using a good sharp knife, cut along the lines in the gasket. An Exacto Knife works really well for this. Cut both gaskets all along all the three lines.

18. Now you are ready to wire up the SSRez per the diagram below.

== Wiring The SSRez ==

The following image is how to connect the SSRez to the Power Supply (AC Hot and AC Neutral)and your Lights (Chan #1, Chan #2, Chan #3, Chan #4, Neutral #1, Neutral #2, Neutral #3 and Neutral #4).

Please note that the Neutrals are all bussed. There is no difference between the terminals. The Chan #'s and AC In are specific and must be wired in this order.

[[Image:SSRez_Wiring.jpg]]

== Heat Sink ==

'''<big>Template Coming Soon</big>'''

==Troubleshooting==
'This section is under construction...please do not use for the time being....

==='''Symptom(s): '''===
:*Channel remains on constantly
:*Channel does not come on when commanded
:*Triac gate resistor burnt/blown

==='''Possible Problem(s): '''===
:*Bad triac
:*Triac in Backwards
:*Bad opto
:*Opto/MOC in Backwards
:*Bad/missed Solder Joints

==='''Troubleshooting Flow'''===

[[Image: TS_Renard_64XC_SSR_Flowchart.png|center|800x800px]]

==='''Troubleshooting Steps'''===
<ol>

<li> Turn OFF AC power

<li>Are any of the triac gate resistors (R1-R4) burnt/blown/damaged?
:*If so, replace that resistor and check the solder pads on the associated TRIAC. Blown gate resistors are usually caused by a missed solder connection on the TRIAC.

<li>Remove the PIC from the controller for this channel.

<li>If not already installed, attach some test lights to the terminal block of the failing channel.

<li>Connect power to the H and N terminal blocks

<li>Turn ON AC power

<li>Test lights should be OFF
:*If the test lights are ON, go to step <XX>

<li>Using the following table, momentarily use a jumper to turn ON the test lights
:*Test lights should come ON when the jumper is connected to the locations in the table. Now this table has eight tests as they are the 8 channels from a single PIC Microcontroller. However, the SSRez has only 4 channels. The channels in the chart for 5-8 are for a different SSRez.

 

{| border="1" cellpadding="5" style="text-align: center; margin: 1em auto 1em auto"
!width="70"| Controller Channel
!width="100"| Optoisolator
!width="100"| Test Lights at SSRez
!width="250"| Connect Jumper Wires between
|-
|1 ||U1 || Channel 1
|align="left"|
:U6 [[media: Wiki - IC socket 3-14.jpg | IC socket pin 3 and pin 14]]
|-
|2 ||U2 || Channel 2
|align="left"|
:U6 [[media: Wiki - IC socket 13-14.jpg | IC socket pin 13 and pin 14]]
|-
|3 ||U3 || Channel 3
|align="left"|
:U6 [[media: Wiki - IC socket 12-14.jpg | IC socket pin 12 and pin 14]]
|-
|4 ||U4 || Channel 4
|align="left"|
:U6 [[media: Wiki - IC socket 11-14.jpg | IC socket pin 11 and pin 14]]
|-
|5 ||U1 || Channel 1
|align="left"|
:U6 [[media: Wiki - IC socket 10-14.jpg | IC socket pin 10 and pin 14]]
|-
|6 ||U2 || Channel 2
|align="left"|
:U6 [[media: Wiki - IC socket 9-14.jpg | IC socket pin 9 and pin 14]]
|-
|7 ||U3 || Channel 3
|align="left"|
:U6 [[media: Wiki - IC socket 8-14.jpg | IC socket pin 8 and pin 14]]
|-
|8 ||U4 || Channel 4
|align="left"|
:U6 [[media: Wiki - IC socket 7-14.jpg | IC socket pin 7 and pin 14]]
|}

<li>Does the previously bad channel now work? If it does:
:#Turn OFF AC power
:#Install PIC back into the controller
:#Begin testing again where previous failure was noted

<li>Turn OFF AC power

<li>Replace the opto (U1-U4) controlling the bad channel
:*Return to step 8 and repeat tests with the new opto

<li>Continue here if replacing the opto did not fix the problem

<li>Turn OFF AC power

<li>Remove the opto (U1-U4) controlling the bad channel

<li>Turn ON AC power

 

<blockquote> <center>'''SAFETY NOTICE:''' 
'''In the following step you will be using a [[media:Wiki - TSG Renard SS jumper wire.jpg | jumper wire]] (small piece of insulated wire) to jump 120 VAC from one pin to another. You need to be very sure that you know what pins you are putting the jumper to before you proceed. Applying 120 VAC to the wrong location could/can cause some very undesirable results.'''. </center></blockquote>

 

<li>Momentarily use a [[media:Wiki - TSG Renard SS jumper wire.jpg | jumper wire]] and connect [[media:Wiki - 6 Pin IC Socket 4-6.jpg | between pins 4 and 6 of the opto socket]]

<li>If the lights still do not come on, it should only be one of the following things:
::*Bad triac
::*Bad/open triac gate resistor
::*Bad solder joints on the triac, opto socket, triac gate resistor or the terminal block

<li>If the lights did come on, measure the voltage at the [[media:Wiki - 6 Pin IC Socket 1.jpg | opto socket pin 1]]
:It should be 5 VDC
:*If incorrect, check the current limiting resistor (R5-R8) associated with that opto. You should be able to read approx 5 VDC on both sides of the resistor.
:*If correct, then something must have been overlooked during the troubleshooting process. Turn OFF the AC power and reinstall any removed components, then restart the troubleshooting process.

<li>Turn OFF AC power

<li>Remove the opto (U1-U4) controlling the bad channel

<li>Turn ON AC power

<li>Is the test light still ON?
:*If the light is still ON then it could be either a bad triac or possibly a bridged solder joint on the triac, opto socket, triac gate resistor or the terminal block.
:*If the light is OFF, then replace the opto with a new one and retest
</ol>

== Early Prototype Picture ==

I have left this image, only to record that the version 1.3 and prototype boards have the silkscreen overlay for the TRIACs reversed.

[[Image:SSRez.jpg]]

[[Category:SSRez]]
[[Category:SSR]]
[[Category:DIYC Index]]

SSRez

2012-01-05T13:28:28Z

Wjohn: /* Bill of Materials */

[[Image:SSRez2.JPG|right|Version 1.3a]]

==Why ''Another'' SSR? ==

There are lots of SSR designs out there. However, Sean's SSRoz is one of the best. It is compact and functions great and without this initial work, the SSRez may not exist! However, a shortcoming of the design was that it was not designed with a specific enclosure in mind. The initial move towards the SSRez involved changing the layout to fit the TA-200 Telephone Demarc Enclosure from [http://www.yourbroadbandstore.com/product.php?pid=701663 YourBroadbandStore.com].


In order to keep the board to a minimum size and the board cost down, the SSRoz has all the neutral connections off board. So, take all the neutrals and connect them with a large wire nut (five 16AWG neutrals!) Once connected, where does the massive chuck of wire go? :) This led to adding terminals for the neutrals...now this is not inexpensive. The cost was offset in part by removing the vertical fuse holder and replacing it with inexpensive fuse clips.

Lastly, the RJ45 connector could be difficult to remove with the locking pin as the pin ends up in a tight corner. A vertical RJ45 jack made this so much easier. Now, some users like the right angle connection. The great thing is that both types will fit the board. So, if you want the "Dino Option" feel free to use the right angled connector.

While changing every thing around, the power traces were beefed up a bit to allow a slightly higher power throughput. This allows for a 7A fuse in place of the original SSRoz fuse of 5A.

so....start out trying to change one problem..and end up with a whole new layout! 

The SSRez can be used as is for most all of the designs found here on DIYC. Some specific uses may require the Bill of Materials to be modified. If the information is not 100% clear, please ask!

==SSRez Features==
<ul>
<li>Designed to fit in the TA-200 Enclosure</li>
<li>Made with 2oz Copper boards for 7A total capacity</li>
<li>Trace spacing supports 240VAC use</li>
<li>RJ45 Jack layout for Top or Side Load for flexibility</li>
<li>On board 5V Logic Power LED</li>
<li>Triac layout designed with Heat Sinks in mind</li>
<li>Separate Terminals for each wire making the connections easier</li>
<li>Wiring "channel" makes the connections easier</li>
<li>Clean and Distinct Low Voltage/High Voltage Isolation</li>
<li>Fuse Position and layout allows for the Optional Fuse Cover</li>
</ul>

== Disclaimers ==

'''PLEASE NOTE: THE OVERLAY FOR THE TRIACS IS INCORRECT FOR Version 1.3. THE TAB SHOULD FACE THE BOTTOM OF THE BOARD, NOT THE TOP. Rev 1.3a is correct and is now shipping'''

''The standard disclaimers apply to the SSRez and can be found [[Disclaimers |here.]]''

== Schematic ==

[[Image: SSRez_Schematic.jpg|300px|center|Small Schematic]]

The pdf file can be found [[Media:SSRez-sch.pdf | here]]

== PCB overlay V 1.3 e ==

[[Image: SSRez V1 3 e overlay sm.jpg|300px|center|PCB Overlay]]

This is the current version of the SSRez (1.3e) with the neon indicator.

== Bill of Materials ==
[https://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=12efc54e27 Mouser BOM]

<pre style="font-size: 10pt">
QTY Mouser #: Description
1 571-5556416-1 Modular Jacks 8 PCB TOP ENTRY marked RJ45
1 504-GMC-7 5mm x 20mm Medium Time Delay Fuses 125VAC 7A Med Time Delay
4 511-BTA04-700T Triacs 4 Amp 700 Volt marked Q1, Q2, Q3, and Q4
2 534-3517 Fuse Clips and Holders PC FUSE CLIP 5 MM
1 604-WP7104IT LED Standard HI EFF RED TRANS marked LED
5 660-CF1/4C681J 1/4Watt Axial Leaded Carbon Film Resistors 680ohms 5% marked R5, R6, R7, R8 and R9
4 660-CF1/4C181J 1/4Watt Axial Leaded Carbon Film Resistors 180ohms 5% marked R1, R2, R3 and R4
4 859-MOC3023 Optocomponents Optocoupler TRIAC marked U1, U2, U3 and U4
4 571-1-390261-1 IC Sockets 6P ECONOMY TIN (Optional!) also marked U1, U2, U3 and U4
5 571-28228372 Terminal Blocks 5.08MM PCB MOUNT 2P
3 Screw,#8x1/2" Pan Head Sheet Metal
1 TA-200 Enclosure
1 Male Plug Power Cord, Rated for 8A Minimum
4 Female Plug Power Cord, Rated for 4A Minimum
1 534-3527C Fuse Cover (Optional)
1 TBD Resistor, 1/4W, 100kOhm (Optional for Revision 1.3e Boards)
1 TBD AC Indicator Lamp (Optional for Revision 1.3e Boards)
</pre>

Now the above is the base Bill of Materials for 120VAC operation. There are, however, some options that can be handled. These are listed below.

----

''240VAC Operation''

Change R1, R2, R3 and R4 to 330 Ohm and replace the fuse with one rated for 240VAC (one listed is for 125VAC). However, a fuse with a rating of 7A at 250VAC is a heck of alot of power. It is perfectly okay to use a fuse with a lower rating if your overall load is small.

----

''36 VAC Operations'' for those folks ''Down Under'' using toroidal transformers...

Change R1, R2, R3 and R4 to 47 Ohm. The fuse rating is still a MAX of 7A. It does not change because the voltage has been reduced.

----

''24 VAC Operations'' for those folks ''Down Under'' using toroidal transformers...

Change R1, R2, R3 and R4 to 33 Ohm. The fuse rating is still a MAX of 7A. It does not change because the voltage has been reduced.

----

''FireGod''

If the SSRez is going to be used with a FireGod system, Resistors R5-R8 may need to be changed. If the channel LEDs are used on the field modules AND the interface board voltage regulator is 5VDC, replace R5, R6, R7, R8, and R9 with 510 Ohm Resistors. You must also use the "Sinking Code" in the FireGod Field Modules when using the SSRez.

== Construction Information ==

Oh, many of you will be building more than one SSRez at a time. An assembly line mindset really helps. This means, put all the resistors on all the boards before going to the next part.

Now, get your [http://www.christmasinshirley.com/wiki/index.php?title=DIYC_Tools tools] together! Cause here we we go.....

1. Sort your parts in the order of assembly. This sounds odd but really helps especially if you have never done this type of assembly before.
[[File:SSRez_Step1.jpg|200px|center]]
2. Check your resistors...make sure the part matches whats written on the bag. Every once in a while, the supplier will give you the wrong part. It never hurts to grab a mulitmeter and check those resistors values. Hmmmmm...how to read the color bands on the resistors can be found [http://www.christmasinshirley.com/wiki/index.php?title=Helpful_Info/Links here.]

3. Inspect your boards for damage. Basically, you are looking for cut traces, deep scratches and other damages since they were shipped.
[[File:SSRez_Step3.jpg|200px|center]]
4. Install the 5 680 Ohm Resistors marked R5, R6, R7, R8 and R9 [blue, silver, red, gold]. Bend them first to match the holes (I have been known to bend all my resistors while watching TV!) Insert them through the holes and bend the lead back to about 60 deg on both side to hold them in place. Solder each connection and trim off the excess lead with flush cut snips. '''Note:''' Some electronics folks will tell you to do this differently. There is a high specification soldering procedure (typically for military items) that says to cut the leads to length, and then solder them in place. This will work but this level of detail is not required for this board.
[[File:SSRez_Step4.jpg|200px|center]]
5. Install the 4 180 Ohm Resistors [brown, silver, red, gold] for 120VAC operation or the 330 ohm resistors [orange, orange, red, gold] for 240VAC operation. These are marked R1, R2, R3 and R4. The installation process is the same as in Step #4.
[[File:SSRez_Step5.jpg|200px|center]]
6. Install the optional 6 pin sockets for U1, U2, U3 and U4. Beware of the orientation of the notch. This is a visual aid to make sure that you put the [http://www.christmasinshirley.com/wiki/index.php?title=Glossary#M MOCs] in correctly. Match the notch with the notch in the silkscreen. Sometimes, a piece of tape can help here. I usually put all four on, cover them with a board and just flip it over. Solder the six pins on each socket. If you choose not to install the sockets, then install the 4 MOCs here in the same manner.
[[File:SSRez_Step6.jpg|200px|center]]
7. Install the Power LED. Orientation is critical. The short leg (the Cathode or K) of the LED must go into the square pad. The silkscreen has this marked with a ''K'' Bend the legs out to a 60 deg angle to hold the LED in place. Then solder the leads and trim the excess.
[[File:SSRez_Step7.jpg|200px|center]]
8. The fuse clips are next. Be aware the orientation of these as well. There is a small ridge inside the clip to keep the fuse from sliding out axially. This ridge must go to the side opposite the fuse. Using a fuse to hold the two clips in place while soldering has been suggested.
[[File:SSRez_Step8.jpg|200px|center]]

9. The 5 terminal blocks are next. The terminals must be assembled first. There is a notch and a pin on the side to mate the 5 parts into on long 10 position terminal. Once assembled, insert the block into the board with the openings for the wires facing outboard. Starting from the middle and working outward, solder in all the pins. These pins are a bit larger and can take more heat and solder than the previous items.
[[File:SSRez_Step9.jpg|200px|center]]

10. Now its time for the the TRIACs. These pins are large and they can be difficult to solder at first. If you have problems...[http://www.christmasinshirley.com/wiki/index.php?title=Glossary#T tin] the leads prior to inserting them into the boards. Solder the pins in place and trim the excess.''' NOTE for Ver 1.3!!! : THE SILKSCREEN FOR THE TRIACS IS INCORRECT. THE TAB SHOULD FACE THE BOTTOM OF THE BOARD (THE RJ45 Side), NOT THE TOP. Version 1.3a has the corrected Silkscreen'''
[[File:SSRez_Step10.jpg|200px|center]]

11. Last, but not least, install the RJ45 Jack. The jack should snap into the 2 large mounting holes and hold itself in place. The pins are very small and solder very fast so be careful not to add too much solder.

12. Clean the board with Isopropyl Alchohol to remove any residual flux.

13. Using good lighting and a magnifier, inspect all the solder joints. Solder bridges, cold joints, too little solder and too much solder are typical errors.

14. Install the 4 MOCs if you did not in Step #6. Watch the orientation by keeping the notch in the same direction as the silk screen.

15. Install the fuse.
[[File:SSRez_Step15.jpg|200px|center]]

16. Mount the SSRez into the enclosure by using 3 each #8x1/2" Pan head zinc coated sheet metal screws. The screw size is defined by the enclosure bosses. The screw may get a touch tight as it makes the final last few mm.
[[Image:SSRezEnclosure.JPG|200px|center|SSRez in TA-200 Enclosure]]

17. Pull the small rubber inserts on the bottom on the enclosure and using a good sharp knife, cut along the lines in the gasket. An Exacto Knife works really well for this. Cut both gaskets all along all the three lines.

18. Now you are ready to wire up the SSRez per the diagram below.

== Wiring The SSRez ==

The following image is how to connect the SSRez to the Power Supply (AC Hot and AC Neutral)and your Lights (Chan #1, Chan #2, Chan #3, Chan #4, Neutral #1, Neutral #2, Neutral #3 and Neutral #4).

Please note that the Neutrals are all bussed. There is no difference between the terminals. The Chan #'s and AC In are specific and must be wired in this order.

[[Image:SSRez_Wiring.jpg]]

== Heat Sink ==

'''<big>Template Coming Soon</big>'''

==Troubleshooting==
'This section is under construction...please do not use for the time being....

==='''Symptom(s): '''===
:*Channel remains on constantly
:*Channel does not come on when commanded
:*Triac gate resistor burnt/blown

==='''Possible Problem(s): '''===
:*Bad triac
:*Triac in Backwards
:*Bad opto
:*Opto/MOC in Backwards
:*Bad/missed Solder Joints

==='''Troubleshooting Flow'''===

[[Image: TS_Renard_64XC_SSR_Flowchart.png|center|800x800px]]

==='''Troubleshooting Steps'''===
<ol>

<li> Turn OFF AC power

<li>Are any of the triac gate resistors (R1-R4) burnt/blown/damaged?
:*If so, replace that resistor and check the solder pads on the associated TRIAC. Blown gate resistors are usually caused by a missed solder connection on the TRIAC.

<li>Remove the PIC from the controller for this channel.

<li>If not already installed, attach some test lights to the terminal block of the failing channel.

<li>Connect power to the H and N terminal blocks

<li>Turn ON AC power

<li>Test lights should be OFF
:*If the test lights are ON, go to step <XX>

<li>Using the following table, momentarily use a jumper to turn ON the test lights
:*Test lights should come ON when the jumper is connected to the locations in the table. Now this table has eight tests as they are the 8 channels from a single PIC Microcontroller. However, the SSRez has only 4 channels. The channels in the chart for 5-8 are for a different SSRez.

 

{| border="1" cellpadding="5" style="text-align: center; margin: 1em auto 1em auto"
!width="70"| Controller Channel
!width="100"| Optoisolator
!width="100"| Test Lights at SSRez
!width="250"| Connect Jumper Wires between
|-
|1 ||U1 || Channel 1
|align="left"|
:U6 [[media: Wiki - IC socket 3-14.jpg | IC socket pin 3 and pin 14]]
|-
|2 ||U2 || Channel 2
|align="left"|
:U6 [[media: Wiki - IC socket 13-14.jpg | IC socket pin 13 and pin 14]]
|-
|3 ||U3 || Channel 3
|align="left"|
:U6 [[media: Wiki - IC socket 12-14.jpg | IC socket pin 12 and pin 14]]
|-
|4 ||U4 || Channel 4
|align="left"|
:U6 [[media: Wiki - IC socket 11-14.jpg | IC socket pin 11 and pin 14]]
|-
|5 ||U1 || Channel 1
|align="left"|
:U6 [[media: Wiki - IC socket 10-14.jpg | IC socket pin 10 and pin 14]]
|-
|6 ||U2 || Channel 2
|align="left"|
:U6 [[media: Wiki - IC socket 9-14.jpg | IC socket pin 9 and pin 14]]
|-
|7 ||U3 || Channel 3
|align="left"|
:U6 [[media: Wiki - IC socket 8-14.jpg | IC socket pin 8 and pin 14]]
|-
|8 ||U4 || Channel 4
|align="left"|
:U6 [[media: Wiki - IC socket 7-14.jpg | IC socket pin 7 and pin 14]]
|}

<li>Does the previously bad channel now work? If it does:
:#Turn OFF AC power
:#Install PIC back into the controller
:#Begin testing again where previous failure was noted

<li>Turn OFF AC power

<li>Replace the opto (U1-U4) controlling the bad channel
:*Return to step 8 and repeat tests with the new opto

<li>Continue here if replacing the opto did not fix the problem

<li>Turn OFF AC power

<li>Remove the opto (U1-U4) controlling the bad channel

<li>Turn ON AC power

 

<blockquote> <center>'''SAFETY NOTICE:''' 
'''In the following step you will be using a [[media:Wiki - TSG Renard SS jumper wire.jpg | jumper wire]] (small piece of insulated wire) to jump 120 VAC from one pin to another. You need to be very sure that you know what pins you are putting the jumper to before you proceed. Applying 120 VAC to the wrong location could/can cause some very undesirable results.'''. </center></blockquote>

 

<li>Momentarily use a [[media:Wiki - TSG Renard SS jumper wire.jpg | jumper wire]] and connect [[media:Wiki - 6 Pin IC Socket 4-6.jpg | between pins 4 and 6 of the opto socket]]

<li>If the lights still do not come on, it should only be one of the following things:
::*Bad triac
::*Bad/open triac gate resistor
::*Bad solder joints on the triac, opto socket, triac gate resistor or the terminal block

<li>If the lights did come on, measure the voltage at the [[media:Wiki - 6 Pin IC Socket 1.jpg | opto socket pin 1]]
:It should be 5 VDC
:*If incorrect, check the current limiting resistor (R5-R8) associated with that opto. You should be able to read approx 5 VDC on both sides of the resistor.
:*If correct, then something must have been overlooked during the troubleshooting process. Turn OFF the AC power and reinstall any removed components, then restart the troubleshooting process.

<li>Turn OFF AC power

<li>Remove the opto (U1-U4) controlling the bad channel

<li>Turn ON AC power

<li>Is the test light still ON?
:*If the light is still ON then it could be either a bad triac or possibly a bridged solder joint on the triac, opto socket, triac gate resistor or the terminal block.
:*If the light is OFF, then replace the opto with a new one and retest
</ol>

== Early Prototype Picture ==

I have left this image, only to record that the version 1.3 and prototype boards have the silkscreen overlay for the TRIACs reversed.

[[Image:SSRez.jpg]]

[[Category:SSRez]]
[[Category:SSR]]
[[Category:DIYC Index]]

SSRez

2012-01-05T13:26:03Z

Wjohn: /* PCB overlay V 1.3 e */

[[Image:SSRez2.JPG|right|Version 1.3a]]

==Why ''Another'' SSR? ==

There are lots of SSR designs out there. However, Sean's SSRoz is one of the best. It is compact and functions great and without this initial work, the SSRez may not exist! However, a shortcoming of the design was that it was not designed with a specific enclosure in mind. The initial move towards the SSRez involved changing the layout to fit the TA-200 Telephone Demarc Enclosure from [http://www.yourbroadbandstore.com/product.php?pid=701663 YourBroadbandStore.com].


In order to keep the board to a minimum size and the board cost down, the SSRoz has all the neutral connections off board. So, take all the neutrals and connect them with a large wire nut (five 16AWG neutrals!) Once connected, where does the massive chuck of wire go? :) This led to adding terminals for the neutrals...now this is not inexpensive. The cost was offset in part by removing the vertical fuse holder and replacing it with inexpensive fuse clips.

Lastly, the RJ45 connector could be difficult to remove with the locking pin as the pin ends up in a tight corner. A vertical RJ45 jack made this so much easier. Now, some users like the right angle connection. The great thing is that both types will fit the board. So, if you want the "Dino Option" feel free to use the right angled connector.

While changing every thing around, the power traces were beefed up a bit to allow a slightly higher power throughput. This allows for a 7A fuse in place of the original SSRoz fuse of 5A.

so....start out trying to change one problem..and end up with a whole new layout! 

The SSRez can be used as is for most all of the designs found here on DIYC. Some specific uses may require the Bill of Materials to be modified. If the information is not 100% clear, please ask!

==SSRez Features==
<ul>
<li>Designed to fit in the TA-200 Enclosure</li>
<li>Made with 2oz Copper boards for 7A total capacity</li>
<li>Trace spacing supports 240VAC use</li>
<li>RJ45 Jack layout for Top or Side Load for flexibility</li>
<li>On board 5V Logic Power LED</li>
<li>Triac layout designed with Heat Sinks in mind</li>
<li>Separate Terminals for each wire making the connections easier</li>
<li>Wiring "channel" makes the connections easier</li>
<li>Clean and Distinct Low Voltage/High Voltage Isolation</li>
<li>Fuse Position and layout allows for the Optional Fuse Cover</li>
</ul>

== Disclaimers ==

'''PLEASE NOTE: THE OVERLAY FOR THE TRIACS IS INCORRECT FOR Version 1.3. THE TAB SHOULD FACE THE BOTTOM OF THE BOARD, NOT THE TOP. Rev 1.3a is correct and is now shipping'''

''The standard disclaimers apply to the SSRez and can be found [[Disclaimers |here.]]''

== Schematic ==

[[Image: SSRez_Schematic.jpg|300px|center|Small Schematic]]

The pdf file can be found [[Media:SSRez-sch.pdf | here]]

== PCB overlay V 1.3 e ==

[[Image: SSRez V1 3 e overlay sm.jpg|300px|center|PCB Overlay]]

This is the current version of the SSRez (1.3e) with the neon indicator.

== Bill of Materials ==
[https://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=12efc54e27 Mouser BOM]

<pre style="font-size: 10pt">
QTY Mouser #: Description
1 571-5556416-1 Modular Jacks 8 PCB TOP ENTRY marked RJ45
1 504-GMC-7 5mm x 20mm Medium Time Delay Fuses 125VAC 7A Med Time Delay
4 511-BTA04-700T Triacs 4 Amp 700 Volt marked Q1, Q2, Q3, and Q4
2 534-3517 Fuse Clips and Holders PC FUSE CLIP 5 MM
1 604-WP7104IT LED Standard HI EFF RED TRANS marked LED
5 660-CF1/4C681J 1/4Watt Axial Leaded Carbon Film Resistors 680ohms 5% marked R5, R6, R7, R8 and R9
4 660-CF1/4C181J 1/4Watt Axial Leaded Carbon Film Resistors 180ohms 5% marked R1, R2, R3 and R4
4 859-MOC3023 Optocomponents Optocoupler TRIAC marked U1, U2, U3 and U4
4 571-1-390261-1 IC Sockets 6P ECONOMY TIN (Optional!) also marked U1, U2, U3 and U4
5 571-28228372 Terminal Blocks 5.08MM PCB MOUNT 2P
3 Screw,#8x1/2" Pan Head Sheet Metal
1 TA-200 Enclosure
1 Male Plug Power Cord, Rated for 8A Minimum
4 Female Plug Power Cord, Rated for 4A Minimum
1 534-3527C Fuse Cover (Optional)
1 TBD Resistor, 1/4W, 100kOhm (Optional for Revision 2.0 Boards)
1 TBD AC Indicator Lamp (Optional for Revision 2.0 Boards)
</pre>

Now the above is the base Bill of Materials for 120VAC operation. There are, however, some options that can be handled. These are listed below.

----

''240VAC Operation''

Change R1, R2, R3 and R4 to 330 Ohm and replace the fuse with one rated for 240VAC (one listed is for 125VAC). However, a fuse with a rating of 7A at 250VAC is a heck of alot of power. It is perfectly okay to use a fuse with a lower rating if your overall load is small.

----

''36 VAC Operations'' for those folks ''Down Under'' using toroidal transformers...

Change R1, R2, R3 and R4 to 47 Ohm. The fuse rating is still a MAX of 7A. It does not change because the voltage has been reduced.

----

''24 VAC Operations'' for those folks ''Down Under'' using toroidal transformers...

Change R1, R2, R3 and R4 to 33 Ohm. The fuse rating is still a MAX of 7A. It does not change because the voltage has been reduced.

----

''FireGod''

If the SSRez is going to be used with a FireGod system, Resistors R5-R8 may need to be changed. If the channel LEDs are used on the field modules AND the interface board voltage regulator is 5VDC, replace R5, R6, R7, R8, and R9 with 510 Ohm Resistors. You must also use the "Sinking Code" in the FireGod Field Modules when using the SSRez.

== Construction Information ==

Oh, many of you will be building more than one SSRez at a time. An assembly line mindset really helps. This means, put all the resistors on all the boards before going to the next part.

Now, get your [http://www.christmasinshirley.com/wiki/index.php?title=DIYC_Tools tools] together! Cause here we we go.....

1. Sort your parts in the order of assembly. This sounds odd but really helps especially if you have never done this type of assembly before.
[[File:SSRez_Step1.jpg|200px|center]]
2. Check your resistors...make sure the part matches whats written on the bag. Every once in a while, the supplier will give you the wrong part. It never hurts to grab a mulitmeter and check those resistors values. Hmmmmm...how to read the color bands on the resistors can be found [http://www.christmasinshirley.com/wiki/index.php?title=Helpful_Info/Links here.]

3. Inspect your boards for damage. Basically, you are looking for cut traces, deep scratches and other damages since they were shipped.
[[File:SSRez_Step3.jpg|200px|center]]
4. Install the 5 680 Ohm Resistors marked R5, R6, R7, R8 and R9 [blue, silver, red, gold]. Bend them first to match the holes (I have been known to bend all my resistors while watching TV!) Insert them through the holes and bend the lead back to about 60 deg on both side to hold them in place. Solder each connection and trim off the excess lead with flush cut snips. '''Note:''' Some electronics folks will tell you to do this differently. There is a high specification soldering procedure (typically for military items) that says to cut the leads to length, and then solder them in place. This will work but this level of detail is not required for this board.
[[File:SSRez_Step4.jpg|200px|center]]
5. Install the 4 180 Ohm Resistors [brown, silver, red, gold] for 120VAC operation or the 330 ohm resistors [orange, orange, red, gold] for 240VAC operation. These are marked R1, R2, R3 and R4. The installation process is the same as in Step #4.
[[File:SSRez_Step5.jpg|200px|center]]
6. Install the optional 6 pin sockets for U1, U2, U3 and U4. Beware of the orientation of the notch. This is a visual aid to make sure that you put the [http://www.christmasinshirley.com/wiki/index.php?title=Glossary#M MOCs] in correctly. Match the notch with the notch in the silkscreen. Sometimes, a piece of tape can help here. I usually put all four on, cover them with a board and just flip it over. Solder the six pins on each socket. If you choose not to install the sockets, then install the 4 MOCs here in the same manner.
[[File:SSRez_Step6.jpg|200px|center]]
7. Install the Power LED. Orientation is critical. The short leg (the Cathode or K) of the LED must go into the square pad. The silkscreen has this marked with a ''K'' Bend the legs out to a 60 deg angle to hold the LED in place. Then solder the leads and trim the excess.
[[File:SSRez_Step7.jpg|200px|center]]
8. The fuse clips are next. Be aware the orientation of these as well. There is a small ridge inside the clip to keep the fuse from sliding out axially. This ridge must go to the side opposite the fuse. Using a fuse to hold the two clips in place while soldering has been suggested.
[[File:SSRez_Step8.jpg|200px|center]]

9. The 5 terminal blocks are next. The terminals must be assembled first. There is a notch and a pin on the side to mate the 5 parts into on long 10 position terminal. Once assembled, insert the block into the board with the openings for the wires facing outboard. Starting from the middle and working outward, solder in all the pins. These pins are a bit larger and can take more heat and solder than the previous items.
[[File:SSRez_Step9.jpg|200px|center]]

10. Now its time for the the TRIACs. These pins are large and they can be difficult to solder at first. If you have problems...[http://www.christmasinshirley.com/wiki/index.php?title=Glossary#T tin] the leads prior to inserting them into the boards. Solder the pins in place and trim the excess.''' NOTE for Ver 1.3!!! : THE SILKSCREEN FOR THE TRIACS IS INCORRECT. THE TAB SHOULD FACE THE BOTTOM OF THE BOARD (THE RJ45 Side), NOT THE TOP. Version 1.3a has the corrected Silkscreen'''
[[File:SSRez_Step10.jpg|200px|center]]

11. Last, but not least, install the RJ45 Jack. The jack should snap into the 2 large mounting holes and hold itself in place. The pins are very small and solder very fast so be careful not to add too much solder.

12. Clean the board with Isopropyl Alchohol to remove any residual flux.

13. Using good lighting and a magnifier, inspect all the solder joints. Solder bridges, cold joints, too little solder and too much solder are typical errors.

14. Install the 4 MOCs if you did not in Step #6. Watch the orientation by keeping the notch in the same direction as the silk screen.

15. Install the fuse.
[[File:SSRez_Step15.jpg|200px|center]]

16. Mount the SSRez into the enclosure by using 3 each #8x1/2" Pan head zinc coated sheet metal screws. The screw size is defined by the enclosure bosses. The screw may get a touch tight as it makes the final last few mm.
[[Image:SSRezEnclosure.JPG|200px|center|SSRez in TA-200 Enclosure]]

17. Pull the small rubber inserts on the bottom on the enclosure and using a good sharp knife, cut along the lines in the gasket. An Exacto Knife works really well for this. Cut both gaskets all along all the three lines.

18. Now you are ready to wire up the SSRez per the diagram below.

== Wiring The SSRez ==

The following image is how to connect the SSRez to the Power Supply (AC Hot and AC Neutral)and your Lights (Chan #1, Chan #2, Chan #3, Chan #4, Neutral #1, Neutral #2, Neutral #3 and Neutral #4).

Please note that the Neutrals are all bussed. There is no difference between the terminals. The Chan #'s and AC In are specific and must be wired in this order.

[[Image:SSRez_Wiring.jpg]]

== Heat Sink ==

'''<big>Template Coming Soon</big>'''

==Troubleshooting==
'This section is under construction...please do not use for the time being....

==='''Symptom(s): '''===
:*Channel remains on constantly
:*Channel does not come on when commanded
:*Triac gate resistor burnt/blown

==='''Possible Problem(s): '''===
:*Bad triac
:*Triac in Backwards
:*Bad opto
:*Opto/MOC in Backwards
:*Bad/missed Solder Joints

==='''Troubleshooting Flow'''===

[[Image: TS_Renard_64XC_SSR_Flowchart.png|center|800x800px]]

==='''Troubleshooting Steps'''===
<ol>

<li> Turn OFF AC power

<li>Are any of the triac gate resistors (R1-R4) burnt/blown/damaged?
:*If so, replace that resistor and check the solder pads on the associated TRIAC. Blown gate resistors are usually caused by a missed solder connection on the TRIAC.

<li>Remove the PIC from the controller for this channel.

<li>If not already installed, attach some test lights to the terminal block of the failing channel.

<li>Connect power to the H and N terminal blocks

<li>Turn ON AC power

<li>Test lights should be OFF
:*If the test lights are ON, go to step <XX>

<li>Using the following table, momentarily use a jumper to turn ON the test lights
:*Test lights should come ON when the jumper is connected to the locations in the table. Now this table has eight tests as they are the 8 channels from a single PIC Microcontroller. However, the SSRez has only 4 channels. The channels in the chart for 5-8 are for a different SSRez.

 

{| border="1" cellpadding="5" style="text-align: center; margin: 1em auto 1em auto"
!width="70"| Controller Channel
!width="100"| Optoisolator
!width="100"| Test Lights at SSRez
!width="250"| Connect Jumper Wires between
|-
|1 ||U1 || Channel 1
|align="left"|
:U6 [[media: Wiki - IC socket 3-14.jpg | IC socket pin 3 and pin 14]]
|-
|2 ||U2 || Channel 2
|align="left"|
:U6 [[media: Wiki - IC socket 13-14.jpg | IC socket pin 13 and pin 14]]
|-
|3 ||U3 || Channel 3
|align="left"|
:U6 [[media: Wiki - IC socket 12-14.jpg | IC socket pin 12 and pin 14]]
|-
|4 ||U4 || Channel 4
|align="left"|
:U6 [[media: Wiki - IC socket 11-14.jpg | IC socket pin 11 and pin 14]]
|-
|5 ||U1 || Channel 1
|align="left"|
:U6 [[media: Wiki - IC socket 10-14.jpg | IC socket pin 10 and pin 14]]
|-
|6 ||U2 || Channel 2
|align="left"|
:U6 [[media: Wiki - IC socket 9-14.jpg | IC socket pin 9 and pin 14]]
|-
|7 ||U3 || Channel 3
|align="left"|
:U6 [[media: Wiki - IC socket 8-14.jpg | IC socket pin 8 and pin 14]]
|-
|8 ||U4 || Channel 4
|align="left"|
:U6 [[media: Wiki - IC socket 7-14.jpg | IC socket pin 7 and pin 14]]
|}

<li>Does the previously bad channel now work? If it does:
:#Turn OFF AC power
:#Install PIC back into the controller
:#Begin testing again where previous failure was noted

<li>Turn OFF AC power

<li>Replace the opto (U1-U4) controlling the bad channel
:*Return to step 8 and repeat tests with the new opto

<li>Continue here if replacing the opto did not fix the problem

<li>Turn OFF AC power

<li>Remove the opto (U1-U4) controlling the bad channel

<li>Turn ON AC power

 

<blockquote> <center>'''SAFETY NOTICE:''' 
'''In the following step you will be using a [[media:Wiki - TSG Renard SS jumper wire.jpg | jumper wire]] (small piece of insulated wire) to jump 120 VAC from one pin to another. You need to be very sure that you know what pins you are putting the jumper to before you proceed. Applying 120 VAC to the wrong location could/can cause some very undesirable results.'''. </center></blockquote>

 

<li>Momentarily use a [[media:Wiki - TSG Renard SS jumper wire.jpg | jumper wire]] and connect [[media:Wiki - 6 Pin IC Socket 4-6.jpg | between pins 4 and 6 of the opto socket]]

<li>If the lights still do not come on, it should only be one of the following things:
::*Bad triac
::*Bad/open triac gate resistor
::*Bad solder joints on the triac, opto socket, triac gate resistor or the terminal block

<li>If the lights did come on, measure the voltage at the [[media:Wiki - 6 Pin IC Socket 1.jpg | opto socket pin 1]]
:It should be 5 VDC
:*If incorrect, check the current limiting resistor (R5-R8) associated with that opto. You should be able to read approx 5 VDC on both sides of the resistor.
:*If correct, then something must have been overlooked during the troubleshooting process. Turn OFF the AC power and reinstall any removed components, then restart the troubleshooting process.

<li>Turn OFF AC power

<li>Remove the opto (U1-U4) controlling the bad channel

<li>Turn ON AC power

<li>Is the test light still ON?
:*If the light is still ON then it could be either a bad triac or possibly a bridged solder joint on the triac, opto socket, triac gate resistor or the terminal block.
:*If the light is OFF, then replace the opto with a new one and retest
</ol>

== Early Prototype Picture ==

I have left this image, only to record that the version 1.3 and prototype boards have the silkscreen overlay for the TRIACs reversed.

[[Image:SSRez.jpg]]

[[Category:SSRez]]
[[Category:SSR]]
[[Category:DIYC Index]]

SSRez

2012-01-05T13:24:46Z

Wjohn: /* PCB overlay V 1.3 e */

[[Image:SSRez2.JPG|right|Version 1.3a]]

==Why ''Another'' SSR? ==

There are lots of SSR designs out there. However, Sean's SSRoz is one of the best. It is compact and functions great and without this initial work, the SSRez may not exist! However, a shortcoming of the design was that it was not designed with a specific enclosure in mind. The initial move towards the SSRez involved changing the layout to fit the TA-200 Telephone Demarc Enclosure from [http://www.yourbroadbandstore.com/product.php?pid=701663 YourBroadbandStore.com].


In order to keep the board to a minimum size and the board cost down, the SSRoz has all the neutral connections off board. So, take all the neutrals and connect them with a large wire nut (five 16AWG neutrals!) Once connected, where does the massive chuck of wire go? :) This led to adding terminals for the neutrals...now this is not inexpensive. The cost was offset in part by removing the vertical fuse holder and replacing it with inexpensive fuse clips.

Lastly, the RJ45 connector could be difficult to remove with the locking pin as the pin ends up in a tight corner. A vertical RJ45 jack made this so much easier. Now, some users like the right angle connection. The great thing is that both types will fit the board. So, if you want the "Dino Option" feel free to use the right angled connector.

While changing every thing around, the power traces were beefed up a bit to allow a slightly higher power throughput. This allows for a 7A fuse in place of the original SSRoz fuse of 5A.

so....start out trying to change one problem..and end up with a whole new layout! 

The SSRez can be used as is for most all of the designs found here on DIYC. Some specific uses may require the Bill of Materials to be modified. If the information is not 100% clear, please ask!

==SSRez Features==
<ul>
<li>Designed to fit in the TA-200 Enclosure</li>
<li>Made with 2oz Copper boards for 7A total capacity</li>
<li>Trace spacing supports 240VAC use</li>
<li>RJ45 Jack layout for Top or Side Load for flexibility</li>
<li>On board 5V Logic Power LED</li>
<li>Triac layout designed with Heat Sinks in mind</li>
<li>Separate Terminals for each wire making the connections easier</li>
<li>Wiring "channel" makes the connections easier</li>
<li>Clean and Distinct Low Voltage/High Voltage Isolation</li>
<li>Fuse Position and layout allows for the Optional Fuse Cover</li>
</ul>

== Disclaimers ==

'''PLEASE NOTE: THE OVERLAY FOR THE TRIACS IS INCORRECT FOR Version 1.3. THE TAB SHOULD FACE THE BOTTOM OF THE BOARD, NOT THE TOP. Rev 1.3a is correct and is now shipping'''

''The standard disclaimers apply to the SSRez and can be found [[Disclaimers |here.]]''

== Schematic ==

[[Image: SSRez_Schematic.jpg|300px|center|Small Schematic]]

The pdf file can be found [[Media:SSRez-sch.pdf | here]]

== PCB overlay V 1.3 e ==

[[Image: SSRez V1 3 e overlay sm.jpg|300px|center|PCB Overlay]]

== Bill of Materials ==
[https://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=12efc54e27 Mouser BOM]

<pre style="font-size: 10pt">
QTY Mouser #: Description
1 571-5556416-1 Modular Jacks 8 PCB TOP ENTRY marked RJ45
1 504-GMC-7 5mm x 20mm Medium Time Delay Fuses 125VAC 7A Med Time Delay
4 511-BTA04-700T Triacs 4 Amp 700 Volt marked Q1, Q2, Q3, and Q4
2 534-3517 Fuse Clips and Holders PC FUSE CLIP 5 MM
1 604-WP7104IT LED Standard HI EFF RED TRANS marked LED
5 660-CF1/4C681J 1/4Watt Axial Leaded Carbon Film Resistors 680ohms 5% marked R5, R6, R7, R8 and R9
4 660-CF1/4C181J 1/4Watt Axial Leaded Carbon Film Resistors 180ohms 5% marked R1, R2, R3 and R4
4 859-MOC3023 Optocomponents Optocoupler TRIAC marked U1, U2, U3 and U4
4 571-1-390261-1 IC Sockets 6P ECONOMY TIN (Optional!) also marked U1, U2, U3 and U4
5 571-28228372 Terminal Blocks 5.08MM PCB MOUNT 2P
3 Screw,#8x1/2" Pan Head Sheet Metal
1 TA-200 Enclosure
1 Male Plug Power Cord, Rated for 8A Minimum
4 Female Plug Power Cord, Rated for 4A Minimum
1 534-3527C Fuse Cover (Optional)
1 TBD Resistor, 1/4W, 100kOhm (Optional for Revision 2.0 Boards)
1 TBD AC Indicator Lamp (Optional for Revision 2.0 Boards)
</pre>

Now the above is the base Bill of Materials for 120VAC operation. There are, however, some options that can be handled. These are listed below.

----

''240VAC Operation''

Change R1, R2, R3 and R4 to 330 Ohm and replace the fuse with one rated for 240VAC (one listed is for 125VAC). However, a fuse with a rating of 7A at 250VAC is a heck of alot of power. It is perfectly okay to use a fuse with a lower rating if your overall load is small.

----

''36 VAC Operations'' for those folks ''Down Under'' using toroidal transformers...

Change R1, R2, R3 and R4 to 47 Ohm. The fuse rating is still a MAX of 7A. It does not change because the voltage has been reduced.

----

''24 VAC Operations'' for those folks ''Down Under'' using toroidal transformers...

Change R1, R2, R3 and R4 to 33 Ohm. The fuse rating is still a MAX of 7A. It does not change because the voltage has been reduced.

----

''FireGod''

If the SSRez is going to be used with a FireGod system, Resistors R5-R8 may need to be changed. If the channel LEDs are used on the field modules AND the interface board voltage regulator is 5VDC, replace R5, R6, R7, R8, and R9 with 510 Ohm Resistors. You must also use the "Sinking Code" in the FireGod Field Modules when using the SSRez.

== Construction Information ==

Oh, many of you will be building more than one SSRez at a time. An assembly line mindset really helps. This means, put all the resistors on all the boards before going to the next part.

Now, get your [http://www.christmasinshirley.com/wiki/index.php?title=DIYC_Tools tools] together! Cause here we we go.....

1. Sort your parts in the order of assembly. This sounds odd but really helps especially if you have never done this type of assembly before.
[[File:SSRez_Step1.jpg|200px|center]]
2. Check your resistors...make sure the part matches whats written on the bag. Every once in a while, the supplier will give you the wrong part. It never hurts to grab a mulitmeter and check those resistors values. Hmmmmm...how to read the color bands on the resistors can be found [http://www.christmasinshirley.com/wiki/index.php?title=Helpful_Info/Links here.]

3. Inspect your boards for damage. Basically, you are looking for cut traces, deep scratches and other damages since they were shipped.
[[File:SSRez_Step3.jpg|200px|center]]
4. Install the 5 680 Ohm Resistors marked R5, R6, R7, R8 and R9 [blue, silver, red, gold]. Bend them first to match the holes (I have been known to bend all my resistors while watching TV!) Insert them through the holes and bend the lead back to about 60 deg on both side to hold them in place. Solder each connection and trim off the excess lead with flush cut snips. '''Note:''' Some electronics folks will tell you to do this differently. There is a high specification soldering procedure (typically for military items) that says to cut the leads to length, and then solder them in place. This will work but this level of detail is not required for this board.
[[File:SSRez_Step4.jpg|200px|center]]
5. Install the 4 180 Ohm Resistors [brown, silver, red, gold] for 120VAC operation or the 330 ohm resistors [orange, orange, red, gold] for 240VAC operation. These are marked R1, R2, R3 and R4. The installation process is the same as in Step #4.
[[File:SSRez_Step5.jpg|200px|center]]
6. Install the optional 6 pin sockets for U1, U2, U3 and U4. Beware of the orientation of the notch. This is a visual aid to make sure that you put the [http://www.christmasinshirley.com/wiki/index.php?title=Glossary#M MOCs] in correctly. Match the notch with the notch in the silkscreen. Sometimes, a piece of tape can help here. I usually put all four on, cover them with a board and just flip it over. Solder the six pins on each socket. If you choose not to install the sockets, then install the 4 MOCs here in the same manner.
[[File:SSRez_Step6.jpg|200px|center]]
7. Install the Power LED. Orientation is critical. The short leg (the Cathode or K) of the LED must go into the square pad. The silkscreen has this marked with a ''K'' Bend the legs out to a 60 deg angle to hold the LED in place. Then solder the leads and trim the excess.
[[File:SSRez_Step7.jpg|200px|center]]
8. The fuse clips are next. Be aware the orientation of these as well. There is a small ridge inside the clip to keep the fuse from sliding out axially. This ridge must go to the side opposite the fuse. Using a fuse to hold the two clips in place while soldering has been suggested.
[[File:SSRez_Step8.jpg|200px|center]]

9. The 5 terminal blocks are next. The terminals must be assembled first. There is a notch and a pin on the side to mate the 5 parts into on long 10 position terminal. Once assembled, insert the block into the board with the openings for the wires facing outboard. Starting from the middle and working outward, solder in all the pins. These pins are a bit larger and can take more heat and solder than the previous items.
[[File:SSRez_Step9.jpg|200px|center]]

10. Now its time for the the TRIACs. These pins are large and they can be difficult to solder at first. If you have problems...[http://www.christmasinshirley.com/wiki/index.php?title=Glossary#T tin] the leads prior to inserting them into the boards. Solder the pins in place and trim the excess.''' NOTE for Ver 1.3!!! : THE SILKSCREEN FOR THE TRIACS IS INCORRECT. THE TAB SHOULD FACE THE BOTTOM OF THE BOARD (THE RJ45 Side), NOT THE TOP. Version 1.3a has the corrected Silkscreen'''
[[File:SSRez_Step10.jpg|200px|center]]

11. Last, but not least, install the RJ45 Jack. The jack should snap into the 2 large mounting holes and hold itself in place. The pins are very small and solder very fast so be careful not to add too much solder.

12. Clean the board with Isopropyl Alchohol to remove any residual flux.

13. Using good lighting and a magnifier, inspect all the solder joints. Solder bridges, cold joints, too little solder and too much solder are typical errors.

14. Install the 4 MOCs if you did not in Step #6. Watch the orientation by keeping the notch in the same direction as the silk screen.

15. Install the fuse.
[[File:SSRez_Step15.jpg|200px|center]]

16. Mount the SSRez into the enclosure by using 3 each #8x1/2" Pan head zinc coated sheet metal screws. The screw size is defined by the enclosure bosses. The screw may get a touch tight as it makes the final last few mm.
[[Image:SSRezEnclosure.JPG|200px|center|SSRez in TA-200 Enclosure]]

17. Pull the small rubber inserts on the bottom on the enclosure and using a good sharp knife, cut along the lines in the gasket. An Exacto Knife works really well for this. Cut both gaskets all along all the three lines.

18. Now you are ready to wire up the SSRez per the diagram below.

== Wiring The SSRez ==

The following image is how to connect the SSRez to the Power Supply (AC Hot and AC Neutral)and your Lights (Chan #1, Chan #2, Chan #3, Chan #4, Neutral #1, Neutral #2, Neutral #3 and Neutral #4).

Please note that the Neutrals are all bussed. There is no difference between the terminals. The Chan #'s and AC In are specific and must be wired in this order.

[[Image:SSRez_Wiring.jpg]]

== Heat Sink ==

'''<big>Template Coming Soon</big>'''

==Troubleshooting==
'This section is under construction...please do not use for the time being....

==='''Symptom(s): '''===
:*Channel remains on constantly
:*Channel does not come on when commanded
:*Triac gate resistor burnt/blown

==='''Possible Problem(s): '''===
:*Bad triac
:*Triac in Backwards
:*Bad opto
:*Opto/MOC in Backwards
:*Bad/missed Solder Joints

==='''Troubleshooting Flow'''===

[[Image: TS_Renard_64XC_SSR_Flowchart.png|center|800x800px]]

==='''Troubleshooting Steps'''===
<ol>

<li> Turn OFF AC power

<li>Are any of the triac gate resistors (R1-R4) burnt/blown/damaged?
:*If so, replace that resistor and check the solder pads on the associated TRIAC. Blown gate resistors are usually caused by a missed solder connection on the TRIAC.

<li>Remove the PIC from the controller for this channel.

<li>If not already installed, attach some test lights to the terminal block of the failing channel.

<li>Connect power to the H and N terminal blocks

<li>Turn ON AC power

<li>Test lights should be OFF
:*If the test lights are ON, go to step <XX>

<li>Using the following table, momentarily use a jumper to turn ON the test lights
:*Test lights should come ON when the jumper is connected to the locations in the table. Now this table has eight tests as they are the 8 channels from a single PIC Microcontroller. However, the SSRez has only 4 channels. The channels in the chart for 5-8 are for a different SSRez.

 

{| border="1" cellpadding="5" style="text-align: center; margin: 1em auto 1em auto"
!width="70"| Controller Channel
!width="100"| Optoisolator
!width="100"| Test Lights at SSRez
!width="250"| Connect Jumper Wires between
|-
|1 ||U1 || Channel 1
|align="left"|
:U6 [[media: Wiki - IC socket 3-14.jpg | IC socket pin 3 and pin 14]]
|-
|2 ||U2 || Channel 2
|align="left"|
:U6 [[media: Wiki - IC socket 13-14.jpg | IC socket pin 13 and pin 14]]
|-
|3 ||U3 || Channel 3
|align="left"|
:U6 [[media: Wiki - IC socket 12-14.jpg | IC socket pin 12 and pin 14]]
|-
|4 ||U4 || Channel 4
|align="left"|
:U6 [[media: Wiki - IC socket 11-14.jpg | IC socket pin 11 and pin 14]]
|-
|5 ||U1 || Channel 1
|align="left"|
:U6 [[media: Wiki - IC socket 10-14.jpg | IC socket pin 10 and pin 14]]
|-
|6 ||U2 || Channel 2
|align="left"|
:U6 [[media: Wiki - IC socket 9-14.jpg | IC socket pin 9 and pin 14]]
|-
|7 ||U3 || Channel 3
|align="left"|
:U6 [[media: Wiki - IC socket 8-14.jpg | IC socket pin 8 and pin 14]]
|-
|8 ||U4 || Channel 4
|align="left"|
:U6 [[media: Wiki - IC socket 7-14.jpg | IC socket pin 7 and pin 14]]
|}

<li>Does the previously bad channel now work? If it does:
:#Turn OFF AC power
:#Install PIC back into the controller
:#Begin testing again where previous failure was noted

<li>Turn OFF AC power

<li>Replace the opto (U1-U4) controlling the bad channel
:*Return to step 8 and repeat tests with the new opto

<li>Continue here if replacing the opto did not fix the problem

<li>Turn OFF AC power

<li>Remove the opto (U1-U4) controlling the bad channel

<li>Turn ON AC power

 

<blockquote> <center>'''SAFETY NOTICE:''' 
'''In the following step you will be using a [[media:Wiki - TSG Renard SS jumper wire.jpg | jumper wire]] (small piece of insulated wire) to jump 120 VAC from one pin to another. You need to be very sure that you know what pins you are putting the jumper to before you proceed. Applying 120 VAC to the wrong location could/can cause some very undesirable results.'''. </center></blockquote>

 

<li>Momentarily use a [[media:Wiki - TSG Renard SS jumper wire.jpg | jumper wire]] and connect [[media:Wiki - 6 Pin IC Socket 4-6.jpg | between pins 4 and 6 of the opto socket]]

<li>If the lights still do not come on, it should only be one of the following things:
::*Bad triac
::*Bad/open triac gate resistor
::*Bad solder joints on the triac, opto socket, triac gate resistor or the terminal block

<li>If the lights did come on, measure the voltage at the [[media:Wiki - 6 Pin IC Socket 1.jpg | opto socket pin 1]]
:It should be 5 VDC
:*If incorrect, check the current limiting resistor (R5-R8) associated with that opto. You should be able to read approx 5 VDC on both sides of the resistor.
:*If correct, then something must have been overlooked during the troubleshooting process. Turn OFF the AC power and reinstall any removed components, then restart the troubleshooting process.

<li>Turn OFF AC power

<li>Remove the opto (U1-U4) controlling the bad channel

<li>Turn ON AC power

<li>Is the test light still ON?
:*If the light is still ON then it could be either a bad triac or possibly a bridged solder joint on the triac, opto socket, triac gate resistor or the terminal block.
:*If the light is OFF, then replace the opto with a new one and retest
</ol>

== Early Prototype Picture ==

I have left this image, only to record that the version 1.3 and prototype boards have the silkscreen overlay for the TRIACs reversed.

[[Image:SSRez.jpg]]

[[Category:SSRez]]
[[Category:SSR]]
[[Category:DIYC Index]]

SSRez

2012-01-05T13:23:40Z

Wjohn:

[[Image:SSRez2.JPG|right|Version 1.3a]]

==Why ''Another'' SSR? ==

There are lots of SSR designs out there. However, Sean's SSRoz is one of the best. It is compact and functions great and without this initial work, the SSRez may not exist! However, a shortcoming of the design was that it was not designed with a specific enclosure in mind. The initial move towards the SSRez involved changing the layout to fit the TA-200 Telephone Demarc Enclosure from [http://www.yourbroadbandstore.com/product.php?pid=701663 YourBroadbandStore.com].


In order to keep the board to a minimum size and the board cost down, the SSRoz has all the neutral connections off board. So, take all the neutrals and connect them with a large wire nut (five 16AWG neutrals!) Once connected, where does the massive chuck of wire go? :) This led to adding terminals for the neutrals...now this is not inexpensive. The cost was offset in part by removing the vertical fuse holder and replacing it with inexpensive fuse clips.

Lastly, the RJ45 connector could be difficult to remove with the locking pin as the pin ends up in a tight corner. A vertical RJ45 jack made this so much easier. Now, some users like the right angle connection. The great thing is that both types will fit the board. So, if you want the "Dino Option" feel free to use the right angled connector.

While changing every thing around, the power traces were beefed up a bit to allow a slightly higher power throughput. This allows for a 7A fuse in place of the original SSRoz fuse of 5A.

so....start out trying to change one problem..and end up with a whole new layout! 

The SSRez can be used as is for most all of the designs found here on DIYC. Some specific uses may require the Bill of Materials to be modified. If the information is not 100% clear, please ask!

==SSRez Features==
<ul>
<li>Designed to fit in the TA-200 Enclosure</li>
<li>Made with 2oz Copper boards for 7A total capacity</li>
<li>Trace spacing supports 240VAC use</li>
<li>RJ45 Jack layout for Top or Side Load for flexibility</li>
<li>On board 5V Logic Power LED</li>
<li>Triac layout designed with Heat Sinks in mind</li>
<li>Separate Terminals for each wire making the connections easier</li>
<li>Wiring "channel" makes the connections easier</li>
<li>Clean and Distinct Low Voltage/High Voltage Isolation</li>
<li>Fuse Position and layout allows for the Optional Fuse Cover</li>
</ul>

== Disclaimers ==

'''PLEASE NOTE: THE OVERLAY FOR THE TRIACS IS INCORRECT FOR Version 1.3. THE TAB SHOULD FACE THE BOTTOM OF THE BOARD, NOT THE TOP. Rev 1.3a is correct and is now shipping'''

''The standard disclaimers apply to the SSRez and can be found [[Disclaimers |here.]]''

== Schematic ==

[[Image: SSRez_Schematic.jpg|300px|center|Small Schematic]]

The pdf file can be found [[Media:SSRez-sch.pdf | here]]

== PCB overlay V 1.3 e ==

[[Image: SSRez V1 3 e overlay sm.jpg|300px|center\PCB Overlay]]

== Bill of Materials ==
[https://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=12efc54e27 Mouser BOM]

<pre style="font-size: 10pt">
QTY Mouser #: Description
1 571-5556416-1 Modular Jacks 8 PCB TOP ENTRY marked RJ45
1 504-GMC-7 5mm x 20mm Medium Time Delay Fuses 125VAC 7A Med Time Delay
4 511-BTA04-700T Triacs 4 Amp 700 Volt marked Q1, Q2, Q3, and Q4
2 534-3517 Fuse Clips and Holders PC FUSE CLIP 5 MM
1 604-WP7104IT LED Standard HI EFF RED TRANS marked LED
5 660-CF1/4C681J 1/4Watt Axial Leaded Carbon Film Resistors 680ohms 5% marked R5, R6, R7, R8 and R9
4 660-CF1/4C181J 1/4Watt Axial Leaded Carbon Film Resistors 180ohms 5% marked R1, R2, R3 and R4
4 859-MOC3023 Optocomponents Optocoupler TRIAC marked U1, U2, U3 and U4
4 571-1-390261-1 IC Sockets 6P ECONOMY TIN (Optional!) also marked U1, U2, U3 and U4
5 571-28228372 Terminal Blocks 5.08MM PCB MOUNT 2P
3 Screw,#8x1/2" Pan Head Sheet Metal
1 TA-200 Enclosure
1 Male Plug Power Cord, Rated for 8A Minimum
4 Female Plug Power Cord, Rated for 4A Minimum
1 534-3527C Fuse Cover (Optional)
1 TBD Resistor, 1/4W, 100kOhm (Optional for Revision 2.0 Boards)
1 TBD AC Indicator Lamp (Optional for Revision 2.0 Boards)
</pre>

Now the above is the base Bill of Materials for 120VAC operation. There are, however, some options that can be handled. These are listed below.

----

''240VAC Operation''

Change R1, R2, R3 and R4 to 330 Ohm and replace the fuse with one rated for 240VAC (one listed is for 125VAC). However, a fuse with a rating of 7A at 250VAC is a heck of alot of power. It is perfectly okay to use a fuse with a lower rating if your overall load is small.

----

''36 VAC Operations'' for those folks ''Down Under'' using toroidal transformers...

Change R1, R2, R3 and R4 to 47 Ohm. The fuse rating is still a MAX of 7A. It does not change because the voltage has been reduced.

----

''24 VAC Operations'' for those folks ''Down Under'' using toroidal transformers...

Change R1, R2, R3 and R4 to 33 Ohm. The fuse rating is still a MAX of 7A. It does not change because the voltage has been reduced.

----

''FireGod''

If the SSRez is going to be used with a FireGod system, Resistors R5-R8 may need to be changed. If the channel LEDs are used on the field modules AND the interface board voltage regulator is 5VDC, replace R5, R6, R7, R8, and R9 with 510 Ohm Resistors. You must also use the "Sinking Code" in the FireGod Field Modules when using the SSRez.

== Construction Information ==

Oh, many of you will be building more than one SSRez at a time. An assembly line mindset really helps. This means, put all the resistors on all the boards before going to the next part.

Now, get your [http://www.christmasinshirley.com/wiki/index.php?title=DIYC_Tools tools] together! Cause here we we go.....

1. Sort your parts in the order of assembly. This sounds odd but really helps especially if you have never done this type of assembly before.
[[File:SSRez_Step1.jpg|200px|center]]
2. Check your resistors...make sure the part matches whats written on the bag. Every once in a while, the supplier will give you the wrong part. It never hurts to grab a mulitmeter and check those resistors values. Hmmmmm...how to read the color bands on the resistors can be found [http://www.christmasinshirley.com/wiki/index.php?title=Helpful_Info/Links here.]

3. Inspect your boards for damage. Basically, you are looking for cut traces, deep scratches and other damages since they were shipped.
[[File:SSRez_Step3.jpg|200px|center]]
4. Install the 5 680 Ohm Resistors marked R5, R6, R7, R8 and R9 [blue, silver, red, gold]. Bend them first to match the holes (I have been known to bend all my resistors while watching TV!) Insert them through the holes and bend the lead back to about 60 deg on both side to hold them in place. Solder each connection and trim off the excess lead with flush cut snips. '''Note:''' Some electronics folks will tell you to do this differently. There is a high specification soldering procedure (typically for military items) that says to cut the leads to length, and then solder them in place. This will work but this level of detail is not required for this board.
[[File:SSRez_Step4.jpg|200px|center]]
5. Install the 4 180 Ohm Resistors [brown, silver, red, gold] for 120VAC operation or the 330 ohm resistors [orange, orange, red, gold] for 240VAC operation. These are marked R1, R2, R3 and R4. The installation process is the same as in Step #4.
[[File:SSRez_Step5.jpg|200px|center]]
6. Install the optional 6 pin sockets for U1, U2, U3 and U4. Beware of the orientation of the notch. This is a visual aid to make sure that you put the [http://www.christmasinshirley.com/wiki/index.php?title=Glossary#M MOCs] in correctly. Match the notch with the notch in the silkscreen. Sometimes, a piece of tape can help here. I usually put all four on, cover them with a board and just flip it over. Solder the six pins on each socket. If you choose not to install the sockets, then install the 4 MOCs here in the same manner.
[[File:SSRez_Step6.jpg|200px|center]]
7. Install the Power LED. Orientation is critical. The short leg (the Cathode or K) of the LED must go into the square pad. The silkscreen has this marked with a ''K'' Bend the legs out to a 60 deg angle to hold the LED in place. Then solder the leads and trim the excess.
[[File:SSRez_Step7.jpg|200px|center]]
8. The fuse clips are next. Be aware the orientation of these as well. There is a small ridge inside the clip to keep the fuse from sliding out axially. This ridge must go to the side opposite the fuse. Using a fuse to hold the two clips in place while soldering has been suggested.
[[File:SSRez_Step8.jpg|200px|center]]

9. The 5 terminal blocks are next. The terminals must be assembled first. There is a notch and a pin on the side to mate the 5 parts into on long 10 position terminal. Once assembled, insert the block into the board with the openings for the wires facing outboard. Starting from the middle and working outward, solder in all the pins. These pins are a bit larger and can take more heat and solder than the previous items.
[[File:SSRez_Step9.jpg|200px|center]]

10. Now its time for the the TRIACs. These pins are large and they can be difficult to solder at first. If you have problems...[http://www.christmasinshirley.com/wiki/index.php?title=Glossary#T tin] the leads prior to inserting them into the boards. Solder the pins in place and trim the excess.''' NOTE for Ver 1.3!!! : THE SILKSCREEN FOR THE TRIACS IS INCORRECT. THE TAB SHOULD FACE THE BOTTOM OF THE BOARD (THE RJ45 Side), NOT THE TOP. Version 1.3a has the corrected Silkscreen'''
[[File:SSRez_Step10.jpg|200px|center]]

11. Last, but not least, install the RJ45 Jack. The jack should snap into the 2 large mounting holes and hold itself in place. The pins are very small and solder very fast so be careful not to add too much solder.

12. Clean the board with Isopropyl Alchohol to remove any residual flux.

13. Using good lighting and a magnifier, inspect all the solder joints. Solder bridges, cold joints, too little solder and too much solder are typical errors.

14. Install the 4 MOCs if you did not in Step #6. Watch the orientation by keeping the notch in the same direction as the silk screen.

15. Install the fuse.
[[File:SSRez_Step15.jpg|200px|center]]

16. Mount the SSRez into the enclosure by using 3 each #8x1/2" Pan head zinc coated sheet metal screws. The screw size is defined by the enclosure bosses. The screw may get a touch tight as it makes the final last few mm.
[[Image:SSRezEnclosure.JPG|200px|center|SSRez in TA-200 Enclosure]]

17. Pull the small rubber inserts on the bottom on the enclosure and using a good sharp knife, cut along the lines in the gasket. An Exacto Knife works really well for this. Cut both gaskets all along all the three lines.

18. Now you are ready to wire up the SSRez per the diagram below.

== Wiring The SSRez ==

The following image is how to connect the SSRez to the Power Supply (AC Hot and AC Neutral)and your Lights (Chan #1, Chan #2, Chan #3, Chan #4, Neutral #1, Neutral #2, Neutral #3 and Neutral #4).

Please note that the Neutrals are all bussed. There is no difference between the terminals. The Chan #'s and AC In are specific and must be wired in this order.

[[Image:SSRez_Wiring.jpg]]

== Heat Sink ==

'''<big>Template Coming Soon</big>'''

==Troubleshooting==
'This section is under construction...please do not use for the time being....

==='''Symptom(s): '''===
:*Channel remains on constantly
:*Channel does not come on when commanded
:*Triac gate resistor burnt/blown

==='''Possible Problem(s): '''===
:*Bad triac
:*Triac in Backwards
:*Bad opto
:*Opto/MOC in Backwards
:*Bad/missed Solder Joints

==='''Troubleshooting Flow'''===

[[Image: TS_Renard_64XC_SSR_Flowchart.png|center|800x800px]]

==='''Troubleshooting Steps'''===
<ol>

<li> Turn OFF AC power

<li>Are any of the triac gate resistors (R1-R4) burnt/blown/damaged?
:*If so, replace that resistor and check the solder pads on the associated TRIAC. Blown gate resistors are usually caused by a missed solder connection on the TRIAC.

<li>Remove the PIC from the controller for this channel.

<li>If not already installed, attach some test lights to the terminal block of the failing channel.

<li>Connect power to the H and N terminal blocks

<li>Turn ON AC power

<li>Test lights should be OFF
:*If the test lights are ON, go to step <XX>

<li>Using the following table, momentarily use a jumper to turn ON the test lights
:*Test lights should come ON when the jumper is connected to the locations in the table. Now this table has eight tests as they are the 8 channels from a single PIC Microcontroller. However, the SSRez has only 4 channels. The channels in the chart for 5-8 are for a different SSRez.

 

{| border="1" cellpadding="5" style="text-align: center; margin: 1em auto 1em auto"
!width="70"| Controller Channel
!width="100"| Optoisolator
!width="100"| Test Lights at SSRez
!width="250"| Connect Jumper Wires between
|-
|1 ||U1 || Channel 1
|align="left"|
:U6 [[media: Wiki - IC socket 3-14.jpg | IC socket pin 3 and pin 14]]
|-
|2 ||U2 || Channel 2
|align="left"|
:U6 [[media: Wiki - IC socket 13-14.jpg | IC socket pin 13 and pin 14]]
|-
|3 ||U3 || Channel 3
|align="left"|
:U6 [[media: Wiki - IC socket 12-14.jpg | IC socket pin 12 and pin 14]]
|-
|4 ||U4 || Channel 4
|align="left"|
:U6 [[media: Wiki - IC socket 11-14.jpg | IC socket pin 11 and pin 14]]
|-
|5 ||U1 || Channel 1
|align="left"|
:U6 [[media: Wiki - IC socket 10-14.jpg | IC socket pin 10 and pin 14]]
|-
|6 ||U2 || Channel 2
|align="left"|
:U6 [[media: Wiki - IC socket 9-14.jpg | IC socket pin 9 and pin 14]]
|-
|7 ||U3 || Channel 3
|align="left"|
:U6 [[media: Wiki - IC socket 8-14.jpg | IC socket pin 8 and pin 14]]
|-
|8 ||U4 || Channel 4
|align="left"|
:U6 [[media: Wiki - IC socket 7-14.jpg | IC socket pin 7 and pin 14]]
|}

<li>Does the previously bad channel now work? If it does:
:#Turn OFF AC power
:#Install PIC back into the controller
:#Begin testing again where previous failure was noted

<li>Turn OFF AC power

<li>Replace the opto (U1-U4) controlling the bad channel
:*Return to step 8 and repeat tests with the new opto

<li>Continue here if replacing the opto did not fix the problem

<li>Turn OFF AC power

<li>Remove the opto (U1-U4) controlling the bad channel

<li>Turn ON AC power

 

<blockquote> <center>'''SAFETY NOTICE:''' 
'''In the following step you will be using a [[media:Wiki - TSG Renard SS jumper wire.jpg | jumper wire]] (small piece of insulated wire) to jump 120 VAC from one pin to another. You need to be very sure that you know what pins you are putting the jumper to before you proceed. Applying 120 VAC to the wrong location could/can cause some very undesirable results.'''. </center></blockquote>

 

<li>Momentarily use a [[media:Wiki - TSG Renard SS jumper wire.jpg | jumper wire]] and connect [[media:Wiki - 6 Pin IC Socket 4-6.jpg | between pins 4 and 6 of the opto socket]]

<li>If the lights still do not come on, it should only be one of the following things:
::*Bad triac
::*Bad/open triac gate resistor
::*Bad solder joints on the triac, opto socket, triac gate resistor or the terminal block

<li>If the lights did come on, measure the voltage at the [[media:Wiki - 6 Pin IC Socket 1.jpg | opto socket pin 1]]
:It should be 5 VDC
:*If incorrect, check the current limiting resistor (R5-R8) associated with that opto. You should be able to read approx 5 VDC on both sides of the resistor.
:*If correct, then something must have been overlooked during the troubleshooting process. Turn OFF the AC power and reinstall any removed components, then restart the troubleshooting process.

<li>Turn OFF AC power

<li>Remove the opto (U1-U4) controlling the bad channel

<li>Turn ON AC power

<li>Is the test light still ON?
:*If the light is still ON then it could be either a bad triac or possibly a bridged solder joint on the triac, opto socket, triac gate resistor or the terminal block.
:*If the light is OFF, then replace the opto with a new one and retest
</ol>

== Early Prototype Picture ==

I have left this image, only to record that the version 1.3 and prototype boards have the silkscreen overlay for the TRIACs reversed.

[[Image:SSRez.jpg]]

[[Category:SSRez]]
[[Category:SSR]]
[[Category:DIYC Index]]

SSRez

2012-01-05T13:21:43Z

Wjohn:

[[Image:SSRez2.JPG|right|Version 1.3a]]

==Why ''Another'' SSR? ==

There are lots of SSR designs out there. However, Sean's SSRoz is one of the best. It is compact and functions great and without this initial work, the SSRez may not exist! However, a shortcoming of the design was that it was not designed with a specific enclosure in mind. The initial move towards the SSRez involved changing the layout to fit the TA-200 Telephone Demarc Enclosure from [http://www.yourbroadbandstore.com/product.php?pid=701663 YourBroadbandStore.com].


In order to keep the board to a minimum size and the board cost down, the SSRoz has all the neutral connections off board. So, take all the neutrals and connect them with a large wire nut (five 16AWG neutrals!) Once connected, where does the massive chuck of wire go? :) This led to adding terminals for the neutrals...now this is not inexpensive. The cost was offset in part by removing the vertical fuse holder and replacing it with inexpensive fuse clips.

Lastly, the RJ45 connector could be difficult to remove with the locking pin as the pin ends up in a tight corner. A vertical RJ45 jack made this so much easier. Now, some users like the right angle connection. The great thing is that both types will fit the board. So, if you want the "Dino Option" feel free to use the right angled connector.

While changing every thing around, the power traces were beefed up a bit to allow a slightly higher power throughput. This allows for a 7A fuse in place of the original SSRoz fuse of 5A.

so....start out trying to change one problem..and end up with a whole new layout! 

The SSRez can be used as is for most all of the designs found here on DIYC. Some specific uses may require the Bill of Materials to be modified. If the information is not 100% clear, please ask!

==SSRez Features==
<ul>
<li>Designed to fit in the TA-200 Enclosure</li>
<li>Made with 2oz Copper boards for 7A total capacity</li>
<li>Trace spacing supports 240VAC use</li>
<li>RJ45 Jack layout for Top or Side Load for flexibility</li>
<li>On board 5V Logic Power LED</li>
<li>Triac layout designed with Heat Sinks in mind</li>
<li>Separate Terminals for each wire making the connections easier</li>
<li>Wiring "channel" makes the connections easier</li>
<li>Clean and Distinct Low Voltage/High Voltage Isolation</li>
<li>Fuse Position and layout allows for the Optional Fuse Cover</li>
</ul>

== Disclaimers ==

'''PLEASE NOTE: THE OVERLAY FOR THE TRIACS IS INCORRECT FOR Version 1.3. THE TAB SHOULD FACE THE BOTTOM OF THE BOARD, NOT THE TOP. Rev 1.3a is correct and is now shipping'''

''The standard disclaimers apply to the SSRez and can be found [[Disclaimers |here.]]''

== Schematic ==

[[Image: SSRez_Schematic.jpg|300px|center|Small Schematic]]

The pdf file can be found [[Media:SSRez-sch.pdf | here]]

== PCB overlay V 1.3 e ==

[[File:SSRez V1 3 e overlay sm.jpg]]

== Bill of Materials ==
[https://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=12efc54e27 Mouser BOM]

<pre style="font-size: 10pt">
QTY Mouser #: Description
1 571-5556416-1 Modular Jacks 8 PCB TOP ENTRY marked RJ45
1 504-GMC-7 5mm x 20mm Medium Time Delay Fuses 125VAC 7A Med Time Delay
4 511-BTA04-700T Triacs 4 Amp 700 Volt marked Q1, Q2, Q3, and Q4
2 534-3517 Fuse Clips and Holders PC FUSE CLIP 5 MM
1 604-WP7104IT LED Standard HI EFF RED TRANS marked LED
5 660-CF1/4C681J 1/4Watt Axial Leaded Carbon Film Resistors 680ohms 5% marked R5, R6, R7, R8 and R9
4 660-CF1/4C181J 1/4Watt Axial Leaded Carbon Film Resistors 180ohms 5% marked R1, R2, R3 and R4
4 859-MOC3023 Optocomponents Optocoupler TRIAC marked U1, U2, U3 and U4
4 571-1-390261-1 IC Sockets 6P ECONOMY TIN (Optional!) also marked U1, U2, U3 and U4
5 571-28228372 Terminal Blocks 5.08MM PCB MOUNT 2P
3 Screw,#8x1/2" Pan Head Sheet Metal
1 TA-200 Enclosure
1 Male Plug Power Cord, Rated for 8A Minimum
4 Female Plug Power Cord, Rated for 4A Minimum
1 534-3527C Fuse Cover (Optional)
1 TBD Resistor, 1/4W, 100kOhm (Optional for Revision 2.0 Boards)
1 TBD AC Indicator Lamp (Optional for Revision 2.0 Boards)
</pre>

Now the above is the base Bill of Materials for 120VAC operation. There are, however, some options that can be handled. These are listed below.

----

''240VAC Operation''

Change R1, R2, R3 and R4 to 330 Ohm and replace the fuse with one rated for 240VAC (one listed is for 125VAC). However, a fuse with a rating of 7A at 250VAC is a heck of alot of power. It is perfectly okay to use a fuse with a lower rating if your overall load is small.

----

''36 VAC Operations'' for those folks ''Down Under'' using toroidal transformers...

Change R1, R2, R3 and R4 to 47 Ohm. The fuse rating is still a MAX of 7A. It does not change because the voltage has been reduced.

----

''24 VAC Operations'' for those folks ''Down Under'' using toroidal transformers...

Change R1, R2, R3 and R4 to 33 Ohm. The fuse rating is still a MAX of 7A. It does not change because the voltage has been reduced.

----

''FireGod''

If the SSRez is going to be used with a FireGod system, Resistors R5-R8 may need to be changed. If the channel LEDs are used on the field modules AND the interface board voltage regulator is 5VDC, replace R5, R6, R7, R8, and R9 with 510 Ohm Resistors. You must also use the "Sinking Code" in the FireGod Field Modules when using the SSRez.

== Construction Information ==

Oh, many of you will be building more than one SSRez at a time. An assembly line mindset really helps. This means, put all the resistors on all the boards before going to the next part.

Now, get your [http://www.christmasinshirley.com/wiki/index.php?title=DIYC_Tools tools] together! Cause here we we go.....

1. Sort your parts in the order of assembly. This sounds odd but really helps especially if you have never done this type of assembly before.
[[File:SSRez_Step1.jpg|200px|center]]
2. Check your resistors...make sure the part matches whats written on the bag. Every once in a while, the supplier will give you the wrong part. It never hurts to grab a mulitmeter and check those resistors values. Hmmmmm...how to read the color bands on the resistors can be found [http://www.christmasinshirley.com/wiki/index.php?title=Helpful_Info/Links here.]

3. Inspect your boards for damage. Basically, you are looking for cut traces, deep scratches and other damages since they were shipped.
[[File:SSRez_Step3.jpg|200px|center]]
4. Install the 5 680 Ohm Resistors marked R5, R6, R7, R8 and R9 [blue, silver, red, gold]. Bend them first to match the holes (I have been known to bend all my resistors while watching TV!) Insert them through the holes and bend the lead back to about 60 deg on both side to hold them in place. Solder each connection and trim off the excess lead with flush cut snips. '''Note:''' Some electronics folks will tell you to do this differently. There is a high specification soldering procedure (typically for military items) that says to cut the leads to length, and then solder them in place. This will work but this level of detail is not required for this board.
[[File:SSRez_Step4.jpg|200px|center]]
5. Install the 4 180 Ohm Resistors [brown, silver, red, gold] for 120VAC operation or the 330 ohm resistors [orange, orange, red, gold] for 240VAC operation. These are marked R1, R2, R3 and R4. The installation process is the same as in Step #4.
[[File:SSRez_Step5.jpg|200px|center]]
6. Install the optional 6 pin sockets for U1, U2, U3 and U4. Beware of the orientation of the notch. This is a visual aid to make sure that you put the [http://www.christmasinshirley.com/wiki/index.php?title=Glossary#M MOCs] in correctly. Match the notch with the notch in the silkscreen. Sometimes, a piece of tape can help here. I usually put all four on, cover them with a board and just flip it over. Solder the six pins on each socket. If you choose not to install the sockets, then install the 4 MOCs here in the same manner.
[[File:SSRez_Step6.jpg|200px|center]]
7. Install the Power LED. Orientation is critical. The short leg (the Cathode or K) of the LED must go into the square pad. The silkscreen has this marked with a ''K'' Bend the legs out to a 60 deg angle to hold the LED in place. Then solder the leads and trim the excess.
[[File:SSRez_Step7.jpg|200px|center]]
8. The fuse clips are next. Be aware the orientation of these as well. There is a small ridge inside the clip to keep the fuse from sliding out axially. This ridge must go to the side opposite the fuse. Using a fuse to hold the two clips in place while soldering has been suggested.
[[File:SSRez_Step8.jpg|200px|center]]

9. The 5 terminal blocks are next. The terminals must be assembled first. There is a notch and a pin on the side to mate the 5 parts into on long 10 position terminal. Once assembled, insert the block into the board with the openings for the wires facing outboard. Starting from the middle and working outward, solder in all the pins. These pins are a bit larger and can take more heat and solder than the previous items.
[[File:SSRez_Step9.jpg|200px|center]]

10. Now its time for the the TRIACs. These pins are large and they can be difficult to solder at first. If you have problems...[http://www.christmasinshirley.com/wiki/index.php?title=Glossary#T tin] the leads prior to inserting them into the boards. Solder the pins in place and trim the excess.''' NOTE for Ver 1.3!!! : THE SILKSCREEN FOR THE TRIACS IS INCORRECT. THE TAB SHOULD FACE THE BOTTOM OF THE BOARD (THE RJ45 Side), NOT THE TOP. Version 1.3a has the corrected Silkscreen'''
[[File:SSRez_Step10.jpg|200px|center]]

11. Last, but not least, install the RJ45 Jack. The jack should snap into the 2 large mounting holes and hold itself in place. The pins are very small and solder very fast so be careful not to add too much solder.

12. Clean the board with Isopropyl Alchohol to remove any residual flux.

13. Using good lighting and a magnifier, inspect all the solder joints. Solder bridges, cold joints, too little solder and too much solder are typical errors.

14. Install the 4 MOCs if you did not in Step #6. Watch the orientation by keeping the notch in the same direction as the silk screen.

15. Install the fuse.
[[File:SSRez_Step15.jpg|200px|center]]

16. Mount the SSRez into the enclosure by using 3 each #8x1/2" Pan head zinc coated sheet metal screws. The screw size is defined by the enclosure bosses. The screw may get a touch tight as it makes the final last few mm.
[[Image:SSRezEnclosure.JPG|200px|center|SSRez in TA-200 Enclosure]]

17. Pull the small rubber inserts on the bottom on the enclosure and using a good sharp knife, cut along the lines in the gasket. An Exacto Knife works really well for this. Cut both gaskets all along all the three lines.

18. Now you are ready to wire up the SSRez per the diagram below.

== Wiring The SSRez ==

The following image is how to connect the SSRez to the Power Supply (AC Hot and AC Neutral)and your Lights (Chan #1, Chan #2, Chan #3, Chan #4, Neutral #1, Neutral #2, Neutral #3 and Neutral #4).

Please note that the Neutrals are all bussed. There is no difference between the terminals. The Chan #'s and AC In are specific and must be wired in this order.

[[Image:SSRez_Wiring.jpg]]

== Heat Sink ==

'''<big>Template Coming Soon</big>'''

==Troubleshooting==
'This section is under construction...please do not use for the time being....

==='''Symptom(s): '''===
:*Channel remains on constantly
:*Channel does not come on when commanded
:*Triac gate resistor burnt/blown

==='''Possible Problem(s): '''===
:*Bad triac
:*Triac in Backwards
:*Bad opto
:*Opto/MOC in Backwards
:*Bad/missed Solder Joints

==='''Troubleshooting Flow'''===

[[Image: TS_Renard_64XC_SSR_Flowchart.png|center|800x800px]]

==='''Troubleshooting Steps'''===
<ol>

<li> Turn OFF AC power

<li>Are any of the triac gate resistors (R1-R4) burnt/blown/damaged?
:*If so, replace that resistor and check the solder pads on the associated TRIAC. Blown gate resistors are usually caused by a missed solder connection on the TRIAC.

<li>Remove the PIC from the controller for this channel.

<li>If not already installed, attach some test lights to the terminal block of the failing channel.

<li>Connect power to the H and N terminal blocks

<li>Turn ON AC power

<li>Test lights should be OFF
:*If the test lights are ON, go to step <XX>

<li>Using the following table, momentarily use a jumper to turn ON the test lights
:*Test lights should come ON when the jumper is connected to the locations in the table. Now this table has eight tests as they are the 8 channels from a single PIC Microcontroller. However, the SSRez has only 4 channels. The channels in the chart for 5-8 are for a different SSRez.

 

{| border="1" cellpadding="5" style="text-align: center; margin: 1em auto 1em auto"
!width="70"| Controller Channel
!width="100"| Optoisolator
!width="100"| Test Lights at SSRez
!width="250"| Connect Jumper Wires between
|-
|1 ||U1 || Channel 1
|align="left"|
:U6 [[media: Wiki - IC socket 3-14.jpg | IC socket pin 3 and pin 14]]
|-
|2 ||U2 || Channel 2
|align="left"|
:U6 [[media: Wiki - IC socket 13-14.jpg | IC socket pin 13 and pin 14]]
|-
|3 ||U3 || Channel 3
|align="left"|
:U6 [[media: Wiki - IC socket 12-14.jpg | IC socket pin 12 and pin 14]]
|-
|4 ||U4 || Channel 4
|align="left"|
:U6 [[media: Wiki - IC socket 11-14.jpg | IC socket pin 11 and pin 14]]
|-
|5 ||U1 || Channel 1
|align="left"|
:U6 [[media: Wiki - IC socket 10-14.jpg | IC socket pin 10 and pin 14]]
|-
|6 ||U2 || Channel 2
|align="left"|
:U6 [[media: Wiki - IC socket 9-14.jpg | IC socket pin 9 and pin 14]]
|-
|7 ||U3 || Channel 3
|align="left"|
:U6 [[media: Wiki - IC socket 8-14.jpg | IC socket pin 8 and pin 14]]
|-
|8 ||U4 || Channel 4
|align="left"|
:U6 [[media: Wiki - IC socket 7-14.jpg | IC socket pin 7 and pin 14]]
|}

<li>Does the previously bad channel now work? If it does:
:#Turn OFF AC power
:#Install PIC back into the controller
:#Begin testing again where previous failure was noted

<li>Turn OFF AC power

<li>Replace the opto (U1-U4) controlling the bad channel
:*Return to step 8 and repeat tests with the new opto

<li>Continue here if replacing the opto did not fix the problem

<li>Turn OFF AC power

<li>Remove the opto (U1-U4) controlling the bad channel

<li>Turn ON AC power

 

<blockquote> <center>'''SAFETY NOTICE:''' 
'''In the following step you will be using a [[media:Wiki - TSG Renard SS jumper wire.jpg | jumper wire]] (small piece of insulated wire) to jump 120 VAC from one pin to another. You need to be very sure that you know what pins you are putting the jumper to before you proceed. Applying 120 VAC to the wrong location could/can cause some very undesirable results.'''. </center></blockquote>

 

<li>Momentarily use a [[media:Wiki - TSG Renard SS jumper wire.jpg | jumper wire]] and connect [[media:Wiki - 6 Pin IC Socket 4-6.jpg | between pins 4 and 6 of the opto socket]]

<li>If the lights still do not come on, it should only be one of the following things:
::*Bad triac
::*Bad/open triac gate resistor
::*Bad solder joints on the triac, opto socket, triac gate resistor or the terminal block

<li>If the lights did come on, measure the voltage at the [[media:Wiki - 6 Pin IC Socket 1.jpg | opto socket pin 1]]
:It should be 5 VDC
:*If incorrect, check the current limiting resistor (R5-R8) associated with that opto. You should be able to read approx 5 VDC on both sides of the resistor.
:*If correct, then something must have been overlooked during the troubleshooting process. Turn OFF the AC power and reinstall any removed components, then restart the troubleshooting process.

<li>Turn OFF AC power

<li>Remove the opto (U1-U4) controlling the bad channel

<li>Turn ON AC power

<li>Is the test light still ON?
:*If the light is still ON then it could be either a bad triac or possibly a bridged solder joint on the triac, opto socket, triac gate resistor or the terminal block.
:*If the light is OFF, then replace the opto with a new one and retest
</ol>

== Early Prototype Picture ==

I have left this image, only to record that the version 1.3 and prototype boards have the silkscreen overlay for the TRIACs reversed.

[[Image:SSRez.jpg]]

[[Category:SSRez]]
[[Category:SSR]]
[[Category:DIYC Index]]

File:SSRez V1 3 e overlay sm.jpg

2012-01-05T13:19:19Z

Wjohn:

4 Channel DCSSR Assembly Instructions

2012-01-05T13:03:53Z

Wjohn: /* Schematic Diagram */

== Background ==

The DC SSR project was commenced at the request of Scott Nething, who wanted to control some DC Devices for Halloween. We worked on this project and had some prototype boards working for the shows, and I have subesquently tested the DC SSRs with LED MR16s, and dimmed them using PWM code from a RENARD.

There have been three revisions to the board design.

Version 1.0 original board design (with 78L05 silkscreen errata)

Version 1.1 Original board design with corrected 78L05 overlay)

Version 1.2 Updated board design with Fuse protection and dimensions to fit TA-200 enclosures.

== Design ==

The board is a simple design, and follows the standard connection for an AC SSR COOP board. The RJ45 Socket provides the connection from the DC SSR to the Controller. The LED on the board indicates 5VDC is being supplied from the Controller to the OPTO.

The OPTO, which is different to the MCO3023Ms used on the AC SSR, is a K84PH, 16 pin DIP IC. I purchased mine from Mouser. 782-K847PH was the Mouser Part # and they cost $1.02 each, and here is the [http://www.vishay.com/docs/83522/83522.pdf Datasheet] The OPTO provides DC isolation from the Controller to the DC load. this is a safety feature, though some would suggest it could be deleted, I felt that will storms and electrical noise, it makes sense to isolate the PC and controller from the Lights.

The load switching is provided by MOSFETs.

The original MOSFET used was a STF20NF06 and here is the [http://www.datasheetcatalog.org/datasheet2/3/06fsdziq30itys6isqu3r0hy1uky.pdf datasheet]. The original MOSFET was plastic tab isolated.

an optional part is the Mouser, RFD14N05L, as part # [http://www.mouser.com/search/Refine.aspx?Ne=1447464+254016&Ntt=*512RFP14N05L*&Ntx=mode%2bmatchall&Mkw=512-RFP14N05L&N=1323038&Ntk=Mouser_Wildcards 512-RFP14N05L] and here is the [http://www.fairchildsemi.com/ds/RF/RFP14N05L.pdf Datasheet]

There is a regulated 5V DC supply for the OPTOs, provided by either a 7805 or a 78L05 on the PCB. the PCB has mount holes for the TO-220 or TO-92 case style.

Euro style screw connectors are specificed for the board, and they are grouped in pairs (+/-) to make connections easy.

The DCSSR is designed to switch DC loads between 0 and 30 Volts. The MOSFETs are rated to great than 10 Amps each, however as fitted to the PCB, I would limit to individual channel load to 2 to 3 Amps max. A suitable heatsink will be required.

== Schematic Diagram ==

There are two schematics available, V1.0/1.1 and V1.2

A [http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/images/0/09/DCSSR_Sch_1.1.pdf DCSSSR V1.1] diagram of the DC SSR is available.

A [http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/images/8/81/DCSSRv1_2.pdf DCSSSR V1.2] diagram of the DC SSR is available.

== Parts List ==

The PCB is available from [http://www.christmasinshirley.com/forum/profile.php?mode=viewprofile&u=11 wjohn] on the Forum.

511-STF20NF06 4
782-K847PH 1
660-CF1/4C681J 5
660-CF1/4C471J 4
660-CF1/4C103J 4
604-WP7104IT 1
571-5202514 1
863-MC78L05ACPRPG 1
538-39890-0302 5
571-3902614 1
80-C322C104Z5U 1

571-3902614 is an optional IC socket, the rest of the parts are the Mouser part # and quantity required.
[http://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=760f3cd923 Click on this link to load a Mouser BOM]

== Construction Notes ==

1. When placing the Vreg (863-MC78L05ACPRPG), note that the PCB screen is reversed (PCB v1.0) from the Vreg data spec. Check voltage across the Vout and ground of the Vreg to ensure 5 volts output to avoid damage to the Vreg or MOSFETs.

2. When placing the optional MOSFETs (512-RFP14N05L), note that the tab is conductive and connect to the drain. If the tabs of the MOSFETs touch, extra channels will trigger. Ensure there is space between MOSFETs and do not use a single conductive heat sink across all 4 MOSFETs. In preference, us the original specified part, 511-STF20NF06, which is tab isolated.

== Completed DC SSR ==

[[Image:DC SSR.jpg]]

== Errata for Rev 1.0 PCB ==

1. The Vreg listed on BOM (863-MC78L05ACPRPG) is correct, the silkscreen is in error. You need to spin the 78L05 180 deg from that shown on the silk screen (flat faces the MOSFET).

2. The MOSFETs listed on BOM (511-STF20NF06) is from the original design. Some DIYC members have used the optional MOSFET, and you need to ensure that the tabs are not touching as they are not electrically isolated.

3. The data sheet for the Vreg on BOM (863-MC78L05ACPRPG) requires an input capacitor as noted in data sheet. the quick fix is to solder a cap across pins #1 and #2 of the 7805 pads, if using the 78L05.

== PCB Overlay Version 1.2 ==

[[File:Overlay.JPG]]

[[Category:SSR]]
[[Category:DIYC Index]]

File:DCSSRv1 2.pdf

2012-01-05T13:01:02Z

Wjohn: Schematic diagram of the DC SSR Verison 1.2

Schematic diagram of the DC SSR Verison 1.2

4 Channel DCSSR Assembly Instructions

2012-01-05T12:55:06Z

Wjohn: /* PCB overaly */

== Background ==

The DC SSR project was commenced at the request of Scott Nething, who wanted to control some DC Devices for Halloween. We worked on this project and had some prototype boards working for the shows, and I have subesquently tested the DC SSRs with LED MR16s, and dimmed them using PWM code from a RENARD.

There have been three revisions to the board design.

Version 1.0 original board design (with 78L05 silkscreen errata)

Version 1.1 Original board design with corrected 78L05 overlay)

Version 1.2 Updated board design with Fuse protection and dimensions to fit TA-200 enclosures.

== Design ==

The board is a simple design, and follows the standard connection for an AC SSR COOP board. The RJ45 Socket provides the connection from the DC SSR to the Controller. The LED on the board indicates 5VDC is being supplied from the Controller to the OPTO.

The OPTO, which is different to the MCO3023Ms used on the AC SSR, is a K84PH, 16 pin DIP IC. I purchased mine from Mouser. 782-K847PH was the Mouser Part # and they cost $1.02 each, and here is the [http://www.vishay.com/docs/83522/83522.pdf Datasheet] The OPTO provides DC isolation from the Controller to the DC load. this is a safety feature, though some would suggest it could be deleted, I felt that will storms and electrical noise, it makes sense to isolate the PC and controller from the Lights.

The load switching is provided by MOSFETs.

The original MOSFET used was a STF20NF06 and here is the [http://www.datasheetcatalog.org/datasheet2/3/06fsdziq30itys6isqu3r0hy1uky.pdf datasheet]. The original MOSFET was plastic tab isolated.

an optional part is the Mouser, RFD14N05L, as part # [http://www.mouser.com/search/Refine.aspx?Ne=1447464+254016&Ntt=*512RFP14N05L*&Ntx=mode%2bmatchall&Mkw=512-RFP14N05L&N=1323038&Ntk=Mouser_Wildcards 512-RFP14N05L] and here is the [http://www.fairchildsemi.com/ds/RF/RFP14N05L.pdf Datasheet]

There is a regulated 5V DC supply for the OPTOs, provided by either a 7805 or a 78L05 on the PCB. the PCB has mount holes for the TO-220 or TO-92 case style.

Euro style screw connectors are specificed for the board, and they are grouped in pairs (+/-) to make connections easy.

The DCSSR is designed to switch DC loads between 0 and 30 Volts. The MOSFETs are rated to great than 10 Amps each, however as fitted to the PCB, I would limit to individual channel load to 2 to 3 Amps max. A suitable heatsink will be required.

== Schematic Diagram ==

A [http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/images/0/09/DCSSR_Sch_1.1.pdf DCSSSR V1.1] diagram of the DC SSR is available.

== Parts List ==

The PCB is available from [http://www.christmasinshirley.com/forum/profile.php?mode=viewprofile&u=11 wjohn] on the Forum.

511-STF20NF06 4
782-K847PH 1
660-CF1/4C681J 5
660-CF1/4C471J 4
660-CF1/4C103J 4
604-WP7104IT 1
571-5202514 1
863-MC78L05ACPRPG 1
538-39890-0302 5
571-3902614 1
80-C322C104Z5U 1

571-3902614 is an optional IC socket, the rest of the parts are the Mouser part # and quantity required.
[http://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=760f3cd923 Click on this link to load a Mouser BOM]

== Construction Notes ==

1. When placing the Vreg (863-MC78L05ACPRPG), note that the PCB screen is reversed (PCB v1.0) from the Vreg data spec. Check voltage across the Vout and ground of the Vreg to ensure 5 volts output to avoid damage to the Vreg or MOSFETs.

2. When placing the optional MOSFETs (512-RFP14N05L), note that the tab is conductive and connect to the drain. If the tabs of the MOSFETs touch, extra channels will trigger. Ensure there is space between MOSFETs and do not use a single conductive heat sink across all 4 MOSFETs. In preference, us the original specified part, 511-STF20NF06, which is tab isolated.

== Completed DC SSR ==

[[Image:DC SSR.jpg]]

== Errata for Rev 1.0 PCB ==

1. The Vreg listed on BOM (863-MC78L05ACPRPG) is correct, the silkscreen is in error. You need to spin the 78L05 180 deg from that shown on the silk screen (flat faces the MOSFET).

2. The MOSFETs listed on BOM (511-STF20NF06) is from the original design. Some DIYC members have used the optional MOSFET, and you need to ensure that the tabs are not touching as they are not electrically isolated.

3. The data sheet for the Vreg on BOM (863-MC78L05ACPRPG) requires an input capacitor as noted in data sheet. the quick fix is to solder a cap across pins #1 and #2 of the 7805 pads, if using the 78L05.

== PCB Overlay Version 1.2 ==

[[File:Overlay.JPG]]

[[Category:SSR]]
[[Category:DIYC Index]]

4 Channel DCSSR Assembly Instructions

2012-01-05T12:54:31Z

Wjohn: /* PCB overaly */

== Background ==

The DC SSR project was commenced at the request of Scott Nething, who wanted to control some DC Devices for Halloween. We worked on this project and had some prototype boards working for the shows, and I have subesquently tested the DC SSRs with LED MR16s, and dimmed them using PWM code from a RENARD.

There have been three revisions to the board design.

Version 1.0 original board design (with 78L05 silkscreen errata)

Version 1.1 Original board design with corrected 78L05 overlay)

Version 1.2 Updated board design with Fuse protection and dimensions to fit TA-200 enclosures.

== Design ==

The board is a simple design, and follows the standard connection for an AC SSR COOP board. The RJ45 Socket provides the connection from the DC SSR to the Controller. The LED on the board indicates 5VDC is being supplied from the Controller to the OPTO.

The OPTO, which is different to the MCO3023Ms used on the AC SSR, is a K84PH, 16 pin DIP IC. I purchased mine from Mouser. 782-K847PH was the Mouser Part # and they cost $1.02 each, and here is the [http://www.vishay.com/docs/83522/83522.pdf Datasheet] The OPTO provides DC isolation from the Controller to the DC load. this is a safety feature, though some would suggest it could be deleted, I felt that will storms and electrical noise, it makes sense to isolate the PC and controller from the Lights.

The load switching is provided by MOSFETs.

The original MOSFET used was a STF20NF06 and here is the [http://www.datasheetcatalog.org/datasheet2/3/06fsdziq30itys6isqu3r0hy1uky.pdf datasheet]. The original MOSFET was plastic tab isolated.

an optional part is the Mouser, RFD14N05L, as part # [http://www.mouser.com/search/Refine.aspx?Ne=1447464+254016&Ntt=*512RFP14N05L*&Ntx=mode%2bmatchall&Mkw=512-RFP14N05L&N=1323038&Ntk=Mouser_Wildcards 512-RFP14N05L] and here is the [http://www.fairchildsemi.com/ds/RF/RFP14N05L.pdf Datasheet]

There is a regulated 5V DC supply for the OPTOs, provided by either a 7805 or a 78L05 on the PCB. the PCB has mount holes for the TO-220 or TO-92 case style.

Euro style screw connectors are specificed for the board, and they are grouped in pairs (+/-) to make connections easy.

The DCSSR is designed to switch DC loads between 0 and 30 Volts. The MOSFETs are rated to great than 10 Amps each, however as fitted to the PCB, I would limit to individual channel load to 2 to 3 Amps max. A suitable heatsink will be required.

== Schematic Diagram ==

A [http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/images/0/09/DCSSR_Sch_1.1.pdf DCSSSR V1.1] diagram of the DC SSR is available.

== Parts List ==

The PCB is available from [http://www.christmasinshirley.com/forum/profile.php?mode=viewprofile&u=11 wjohn] on the Forum.

511-STF20NF06 4
782-K847PH 1
660-CF1/4C681J 5
660-CF1/4C471J 4
660-CF1/4C103J 4
604-WP7104IT 1
571-5202514 1
863-MC78L05ACPRPG 1
538-39890-0302 5
571-3902614 1
80-C322C104Z5U 1

571-3902614 is an optional IC socket, the rest of the parts are the Mouser part # and quantity required.
[http://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=760f3cd923 Click on this link to load a Mouser BOM]

== Construction Notes ==

1. When placing the Vreg (863-MC78L05ACPRPG), note that the PCB screen is reversed (PCB v1.0) from the Vreg data spec. Check voltage across the Vout and ground of the Vreg to ensure 5 volts output to avoid damage to the Vreg or MOSFETs.

2. When placing the optional MOSFETs (512-RFP14N05L), note that the tab is conductive and connect to the drain. If the tabs of the MOSFETs touch, extra channels will trigger. Ensure there is space between MOSFETs and do not use a single conductive heat sink across all 4 MOSFETs. In preference, us the original specified part, 511-STF20NF06, which is tab isolated.

== Completed DC SSR ==

[[Image:DC SSR.jpg]]

== Errata for Rev 1.0 PCB ==

1. The Vreg listed on BOM (863-MC78L05ACPRPG) is correct, the silkscreen is in error. You need to spin the 78L05 180 deg from that shown on the silk screen (flat faces the MOSFET).

2. The MOSFETs listed on BOM (511-STF20NF06) is from the original design. Some DIYC members have used the optional MOSFET, and you need to ensure that the tabs are not touching as they are not electrically isolated.

3. The data sheet for the Vreg on BOM (863-MC78L05ACPRPG) requires an input capacitor as noted in data sheet. the quick fix is to solder a cap across pins #1 and #2 of the 7805 pads, if using the 78L05.

== PCB overaly ==

[[File:Overlay.JPG]]

[[Category:SSR]]
[[Category:DIYC Index]]

File:Overlay.JPG

2012-01-05T12:53:57Z

Wjohn: DC SSR Version 1.2

DC SSR Version 1.2

4 Channel DCSSR Assembly Instructions

2012-01-05T12:52:54Z

Wjohn: /* PCB overaly */

== Background ==

The DC SSR project was commenced at the request of Scott Nething, who wanted to control some DC Devices for Halloween. We worked on this project and had some prototype boards working for the shows, and I have subesquently tested the DC SSRs with LED MR16s, and dimmed them using PWM code from a RENARD.

There have been three revisions to the board design.

Version 1.0 original board design (with 78L05 silkscreen errata)

Version 1.1 Original board design with corrected 78L05 overlay)

Version 1.2 Updated board design with Fuse protection and dimensions to fit TA-200 enclosures.

== Design ==

The board is a simple design, and follows the standard connection for an AC SSR COOP board. The RJ45 Socket provides the connection from the DC SSR to the Controller. The LED on the board indicates 5VDC is being supplied from the Controller to the OPTO.

The OPTO, which is different to the MCO3023Ms used on the AC SSR, is a K84PH, 16 pin DIP IC. I purchased mine from Mouser. 782-K847PH was the Mouser Part # and they cost $1.02 each, and here is the [http://www.vishay.com/docs/83522/83522.pdf Datasheet] The OPTO provides DC isolation from the Controller to the DC load. this is a safety feature, though some would suggest it could be deleted, I felt that will storms and electrical noise, it makes sense to isolate the PC and controller from the Lights.

The load switching is provided by MOSFETs.

The original MOSFET used was a STF20NF06 and here is the [http://www.datasheetcatalog.org/datasheet2/3/06fsdziq30itys6isqu3r0hy1uky.pdf datasheet]. The original MOSFET was plastic tab isolated.

an optional part is the Mouser, RFD14N05L, as part # [http://www.mouser.com/search/Refine.aspx?Ne=1447464+254016&Ntt=*512RFP14N05L*&Ntx=mode%2bmatchall&Mkw=512-RFP14N05L&N=1323038&Ntk=Mouser_Wildcards 512-RFP14N05L] and here is the [http://www.fairchildsemi.com/ds/RF/RFP14N05L.pdf Datasheet]

There is a regulated 5V DC supply for the OPTOs, provided by either a 7805 or a 78L05 on the PCB. the PCB has mount holes for the TO-220 or TO-92 case style.

Euro style screw connectors are specificed for the board, and they are grouped in pairs (+/-) to make connections easy.

The DCSSR is designed to switch DC loads between 0 and 30 Volts. The MOSFETs are rated to great than 10 Amps each, however as fitted to the PCB, I would limit to individual channel load to 2 to 3 Amps max. A suitable heatsink will be required.

== Schematic Diagram ==

A [http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/images/0/09/DCSSR_Sch_1.1.pdf DCSSSR V1.1] diagram of the DC SSR is available.

== Parts List ==

The PCB is available from [http://www.christmasinshirley.com/forum/profile.php?mode=viewprofile&u=11 wjohn] on the Forum.

511-STF20NF06 4
782-K847PH 1
660-CF1/4C681J 5
660-CF1/4C471J 4
660-CF1/4C103J 4
604-WP7104IT 1
571-5202514 1
863-MC78L05ACPRPG 1
538-39890-0302 5
571-3902614 1
80-C322C104Z5U 1

571-3902614 is an optional IC socket, the rest of the parts are the Mouser part # and quantity required.
[http://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=760f3cd923 Click on this link to load a Mouser BOM]

== Construction Notes ==

1. When placing the Vreg (863-MC78L05ACPRPG), note that the PCB screen is reversed (PCB v1.0) from the Vreg data spec. Check voltage across the Vout and ground of the Vreg to ensure 5 volts output to avoid damage to the Vreg or MOSFETs.

2. When placing the optional MOSFETs (512-RFP14N05L), note that the tab is conductive and connect to the drain. If the tabs of the MOSFETs touch, extra channels will trigger. Ensure there is space between MOSFETs and do not use a single conductive heat sink across all 4 MOSFETs. In preference, us the original specified part, 511-STF20NF06, which is tab isolated.

== Completed DC SSR ==

[[Image:DC SSR.jpg]]

== Errata for Rev 1.0 PCB ==

1. The Vreg listed on BOM (863-MC78L05ACPRPG) is correct, the silkscreen is in error. You need to spin the 78L05 180 deg from that shown on the silk screen (flat faces the MOSFET).

2. The MOSFETs listed on BOM (511-STF20NF06) is from the original design. Some DIYC members have used the optional MOSFET, and you need to ensure that the tabs are not touching as they are not electrically isolated.

3. The data sheet for the Vreg on BOM (863-MC78L05ACPRPG) requires an input capacitor as noted in data sheet. the quick fix is to solder a cap across pins #1 and #2 of the 7805 pads, if using the 78L05.

== PCB overaly ==

[http://xmasinmelb.com/dcssr/overlay.JPG]

[[Category:SSR]]
[[Category:DIYC Index]]

4 Channel DCSSR Assembly Instructions

2012-01-05T12:52:06Z

Wjohn:

== Background ==

The DC SSR project was commenced at the request of Scott Nething, who wanted to control some DC Devices for Halloween. We worked on this project and had some prototype boards working for the shows, and I have subesquently tested the DC SSRs with LED MR16s, and dimmed them using PWM code from a RENARD.

There have been three revisions to the board design.

Version 1.0 original board design (with 78L05 silkscreen errata)

Version 1.1 Original board design with corrected 78L05 overlay)

Version 1.2 Updated board design with Fuse protection and dimensions to fit TA-200 enclosures.

== Design ==

The board is a simple design, and follows the standard connection for an AC SSR COOP board. The RJ45 Socket provides the connection from the DC SSR to the Controller. The LED on the board indicates 5VDC is being supplied from the Controller to the OPTO.

The OPTO, which is different to the MCO3023Ms used on the AC SSR, is a K84PH, 16 pin DIP IC. I purchased mine from Mouser. 782-K847PH was the Mouser Part # and they cost $1.02 each, and here is the [http://www.vishay.com/docs/83522/83522.pdf Datasheet] The OPTO provides DC isolation from the Controller to the DC load. this is a safety feature, though some would suggest it could be deleted, I felt that will storms and electrical noise, it makes sense to isolate the PC and controller from the Lights.

The load switching is provided by MOSFETs.

The original MOSFET used was a STF20NF06 and here is the [http://www.datasheetcatalog.org/datasheet2/3/06fsdziq30itys6isqu3r0hy1uky.pdf datasheet]. The original MOSFET was plastic tab isolated.

an optional part is the Mouser, RFD14N05L, as part # [http://www.mouser.com/search/Refine.aspx?Ne=1447464+254016&Ntt=*512RFP14N05L*&Ntx=mode%2bmatchall&Mkw=512-RFP14N05L&N=1323038&Ntk=Mouser_Wildcards 512-RFP14N05L] and here is the [http://www.fairchildsemi.com/ds/RF/RFP14N05L.pdf Datasheet]

There is a regulated 5V DC supply for the OPTOs, provided by either a 7805 or a 78L05 on the PCB. the PCB has mount holes for the TO-220 or TO-92 case style.

Euro style screw connectors are specificed for the board, and they are grouped in pairs (+/-) to make connections easy.

The DCSSR is designed to switch DC loads between 0 and 30 Volts. The MOSFETs are rated to great than 10 Amps each, however as fitted to the PCB, I would limit to individual channel load to 2 to 3 Amps max. A suitable heatsink will be required.

== Schematic Diagram ==

A [http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/images/0/09/DCSSR_Sch_1.1.pdf DCSSSR V1.1] diagram of the DC SSR is available.

== Parts List ==

The PCB is available from [http://www.christmasinshirley.com/forum/profile.php?mode=viewprofile&u=11 wjohn] on the Forum.

511-STF20NF06 4
782-K847PH 1
660-CF1/4C681J 5
660-CF1/4C471J 4
660-CF1/4C103J 4
604-WP7104IT 1
571-5202514 1
863-MC78L05ACPRPG 1
538-39890-0302 5
571-3902614 1
80-C322C104Z5U 1

571-3902614 is an optional IC socket, the rest of the parts are the Mouser part # and quantity required.
[http://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=760f3cd923 Click on this link to load a Mouser BOM]

== Construction Notes ==

1. When placing the Vreg (863-MC78L05ACPRPG), note that the PCB screen is reversed (PCB v1.0) from the Vreg data spec. Check voltage across the Vout and ground of the Vreg to ensure 5 volts output to avoid damage to the Vreg or MOSFETs.

2. When placing the optional MOSFETs (512-RFP14N05L), note that the tab is conductive and connect to the drain. If the tabs of the MOSFETs touch, extra channels will trigger. Ensure there is space between MOSFETs and do not use a single conductive heat sink across all 4 MOSFETs. In preference, us the original specified part, 511-STF20NF06, which is tab isolated.

== Completed DC SSR ==

[[Image:DC SSR.jpg]]

== Errata for Rev 1.0 PCB ==

1. The Vreg listed on BOM (863-MC78L05ACPRPG) is correct, the silkscreen is in error. You need to spin the 78L05 180 deg from that shown on the silk screen (flat faces the MOSFET).

2. The MOSFETs listed on BOM (511-STF20NF06) is from the original design. Some DIYC members have used the optional MOSFET, and you need to ensure that the tabs are not touching as they are not electrically isolated.

3. The data sheet for the Vreg on BOM (863-MC78L05ACPRPG) requires an input capacitor as noted in data sheet. the quick fix is to solder a cap across pins #1 and #2 of the 7805 pads, if using the 78L05.

== PCB overaly ==

[[Image:http://xmasinmelb.com/dcssr/overlay.JPG]]

[[Category:SSR]]
[[Category:DIYC Index]]

4 Channel DCSSR Assembly Instructions

2012-01-05T12:51:05Z

Wjohn: /* Background */

== Background ==

The DC SSR project was commenced at the request of Scott Nething, who wanted to control some DC Devices for Halloween. We worked on this project and had some prototype boards working for the shows, and I have subesquently tested the DC SSRs with LED MR16s, and dimmed them using PWM code from a RENARD.

There have been three revisions to the board design.

Version 1.0 original board design (with 78L05 silkscreen errata)

Version 1.1 Original board design with corrected 78L05 overlay)

Version 1.2 Updated board design with Fuse protection and dimensions to fit TA-200 enclosures.

== Design ==

The board is a simple design, and follows the standard connection for an AC SSR COOP board. The RJ45 Socket provides the connection from the DC SSR to the Controller. The LED on the board indicates 5VDC is being supplied from the Controller to the OPTO.

The OPTO, which is different to the MCO3023Ms used on the AC SSR, is a K84PH, 16 pin DIP IC. I purchased mine from Mouser. 782-K847PH was the Mouser Part # and they cost $1.02 each, and here is the [http://www.vishay.com/docs/83522/83522.pdf Datasheet] The OPTO provides DC isolation from the Controller to the DC load. this is a safety feature, though some would suggest it could be deleted, I felt that will storms and electrical noise, it makes sense to isolate the PC and controller from the Lights.

The load switching is provided by MOSFETs.

The original MOSFET used was a STF20NF06 and here is the [http://www.datasheetcatalog.org/datasheet2/3/06fsdziq30itys6isqu3r0hy1uky.pdf datasheet]. The original MOSFET was plastic tab isolated.

an optional part is the Mouser, RFD14N05L, as part # [http://www.mouser.com/search/Refine.aspx?Ne=1447464+254016&Ntt=*512RFP14N05L*&Ntx=mode%2bmatchall&Mkw=512-RFP14N05L&N=1323038&Ntk=Mouser_Wildcards 512-RFP14N05L] and here is the [http://www.fairchildsemi.com/ds/RF/RFP14N05L.pdf Datasheet]

There is a regulated 5V DC supply for the OPTOs, provided by either a 7805 or a 78L05 on the PCB. the PCB has mount holes for the TO-220 or TO-92 case style.

Euro style screw connectors are specificed for the board, and they are grouped in pairs (+/-) to make connections easy.

The DCSSR is designed to switch DC loads between 0 and 30 Volts. The MOSFETs are rated to great than 10 Amps each, however as fitted to the PCB, I would limit to individual channel load to 2 to 3 Amps max. A suitable heatsink will be required.

== Schematic Diagram ==

A [http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/images/0/09/DCSSR_Sch_1.1.pdf DCSSSR V1.1] diagram of the DC SSR is available.

== Parts List ==

The PCB is available from [http://www.christmasinshirley.com/forum/profile.php?mode=viewprofile&u=11 wjohn] on the Forum.

511-STF20NF06 4
782-K847PH 1
660-CF1/4C681J 5
660-CF1/4C471J 4
660-CF1/4C103J 4
604-WP7104IT 1
571-5202514 1
863-MC78L05ACPRPG 1
538-39890-0302 5
571-3902614 1
80-C322C104Z5U 1

571-3902614 is an optional IC socket, the rest of the parts are the Mouser part # and quantity required.
[http://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=760f3cd923 Click on this link to load a Mouser BOM]

== Construction Notes ==

1. When placing the Vreg (863-MC78L05ACPRPG), note that the PCB screen is reversed (PCB v1.0) from the Vreg data spec. Check voltage across the Vout and ground of the Vreg to ensure 5 volts output to avoid damage to the Vreg or MOSFETs.

2. When placing the optional MOSFETs (512-RFP14N05L), note that the tab is conductive and connect to the drain. If the tabs of the MOSFETs touch, extra channels will trigger. Ensure there is space between MOSFETs and do not use a single conductive heat sink across all 4 MOSFETs. In preference, us the original specified part, 511-STF20NF06, which is tab isolated.

== Completed DC SSR ==

[[Image:DC SSR.jpg]]

== Errata for Rev 1.0 PCB ==

1. The Vreg listed on BOM (863-MC78L05ACPRPG) is correct, the silkscreen is in error. You need to spin the 78L05 180 deg from that shown on the silk screen (flat faces the MOSFET).

2. The MOSFETs listed on BOM (511-STF20NF06) is from the original design. Some DIYC members have used the optional MOSFET, and you need to ensure that the tabs are not touching as they are not electrically isolated.

3. The data sheet for the Vreg on BOM (863-MC78L05ACPRPG) requires an input capacitor as noted in data sheet. the quick fix is to solder a cap across pins #1 and #2 of the 7805 pads, if using the 78L05.

[[Category:SSR]]
[[Category:DIYC Index]]

4 Channel DCSSR Assembly Instructions

2010-06-28T00:31:28Z

Wjohn: /* Schematic Diagram */

== Background ==

The DC SSR project was commenced at the request of Scott Nething, who wanted to control some DC Devices for Halloween. We worked on this project and had some prototype boards working for the shows, and I have subesquently tested the DC SSRs with LED MR16s, and dimmed them using PWM code from a RENARD.

== Design ==

The board is a simple design, and follows the standard connection for an AC SSR COOP board. The RJ45 Socket provides the connection from the DC SSR to the Controller. The LED on the board indicates 5VDC is being supplied from the Controller to the OPTO.

The OPTO, which is different to the MCO3023Ms used on the AC SSR, is a K84PH, 16 pin DIP IC. I purchased mine from Mouser. 782-K847PH was the Mouser Part # and they cost $1.02 each, and here is the [http://www.vishay.com/docs/83522/83522.pdf Datasheet] The OPTO provides DC isolation from the Controller to the DC load. this is a safety feature, though some would suggest it could be deleted, I felt that will storms and electrical noise, it makes sense to isolate the PC and controller from the Lights.

The load switching is provided by MOSFETs.

The original MOSFET used was a STF20NF06 and here is the [http://www.datasheetcatalog.org/datasheet2/3/06fsdziq30itys6isqu3r0hy1uky.pdf datasheet]. The original MOSFET was plastic tab isolated.

an optional part is the Mouser, RFD14N05L, as part # [http://www.mouser.com/search/Refine.aspx?Ne=1447464+254016&Ntt=*512RFP14N05L*&Ntx=mode%2bmatchall&Mkw=512-RFP14N05L&N=1323038&Ntk=Mouser_Wildcards 512-RFP14N05L] and here is the [http://www.fairchildsemi.com/ds/RF/RFP14N05L.pdf Datasheet]

There is a regulated 5V DC supply for the OPTOs, provided by either a 7805 or a 78L05 on the PCB. the PCB has mount holes for the TO-220 or TO-92 case style.

Euro style screw connectors are specificed for the board, and they are grouped in pairs (+/-) to make connections easy.

The DCSSR is designed to switch DC loads between 0 and 30 Volts. The MOSFETs are rated to great than 10 Amps each, however as fitted to the PCB, I would limit to individual channel load to 2 to 3 Amps max. A suitable heatsink will be required.

== Schematic Diagram ==

A [http://www.christmasinshirley.com/wiki/images/0/09/DCSSR_Sch_1.1.pdf DCSSSR V1.1] diagram of the DC SSR is available.

== Parts List ==

The PCB is available from [http://www.christmasinshirley.com/forum/profile.php?mode=viewprofile&u=11 wjohn] on the Forum.

511-STF20NF06 4
782-K847PH 1
660-CF1/4C681J 5
660-CF1/4C471J 4
660-CF1/4C103J 4
604-WP7104IT 1
571-5202514 1
863-MC78L05ACPRPG 1
538-39890-0302 5
571-3902614 1
80-C322C104Z5U 1

571-3902614 is an optional IC socket, the rest of the parts are the Mouser part # and quantity required.
[http://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=760f3cd923 Click on this link to load a Mouser BOM]

== Construction Notes ==

1. When placing the Vreg (863-MC78L05ACPRPG), note that the PCB screen is reversed (PCB v1.0) from the Vreg data spec. Check voltage across the Vout and ground of the Vreg to ensure 5 volts output to avoid damage to the Vreg or MOSFETs.

2. When placing the optional MOSFETs (512-RFP14N05L), note that the tab is conductive and connect to the drain. If the tabs of the MOSFETs touch, extra channels will trigger. Ensure there is space between MOSFETs and do not use a single conductive heat sink across all 4 MOSFETs. In preference, us the original specified part, 511-STF20NF06, which is tab isolated.

== Completed DC SSR ==

[[Image:DC SSR.jpg]]

== Errata for Rev 1.0 PCB ==

1. The Vreg listed on BOM (863-MC78L05ACPRPG) is correct, the silkscreen is in error. You need to spin the 78L05 180 deg from that shown on the silk screen (flat faces the MOSFET).

2. The MOSFETs listed on BOM (511-STF20NF06) is from the original design. Some DIYC members have used the optional MOSFET, and you need to ensure that the tabs are not touching as they are not electrically isolated.

3. The data sheet for the Vreg on BOM (863-MC78L05ACPRPG) requires an input capacitor as noted in data sheet. the quick fix is to solder a cap across pins #1 and #2 of the 7805 pads, if using the 78L05.

4 Channel DCSSR Assembly Instructions

2010-06-28T00:12:33Z

Wjohn: /* Schematic Diagram */

== Background ==

The DC SSR project was commenced at the request of Scott Nething, who wanted to control some DC Devices for Halloween. We worked on this project and had some prototype boards working for the shows, and I have subesquently tested the DC SSRs with LED MR16s, and dimmed them using PWM code from a RENARD.

== Design ==

The board is a simple design, and follows the standard connection for an AC SSR COOP board. The RJ45 Socket provides the connection from the DC SSR to the Controller. The LED on the board indicates 5VDC is being supplied from the Controller to the OPTO.

The OPTO, which is different to the MCO3023Ms used on the AC SSR, is a K84PH, 16 pin DIP IC. I purchased mine from Mouser. 782-K847PH was the Mouser Part # and they cost $1.02 each, and here is the [http://www.vishay.com/docs/83522/83522.pdf Datasheet] The OPTO provides DC isolation from the Controller to the DC load. this is a safety feature, though some would suggest it could be deleted, I felt that will storms and electrical noise, it makes sense to isolate the PC and controller from the Lights.

The load switching is provided by MOSFETs.

The original MOSFET used was a STF20NF06 and here is the [http://www.datasheetcatalog.org/datasheet2/3/06fsdziq30itys6isqu3r0hy1uky.pdf datasheet]. The original MOSFET was plastic tab isolated.

an optional part is the Mouser, RFD14N05L, as part # [http://www.mouser.com/search/Refine.aspx?Ne=1447464+254016&Ntt=*512RFP14N05L*&Ntx=mode%2bmatchall&Mkw=512-RFP14N05L&N=1323038&Ntk=Mouser_Wildcards 512-RFP14N05L] and here is the [http://www.fairchildsemi.com/ds/RF/RFP14N05L.pdf Datasheet]

There is a regulated 5V DC supply for the OPTOs, provided by either a 7805 or a 78L05 on the PCB. the PCB has mount holes for the TO-220 or TO-92 case style.

Euro style screw connectors are specificed for the board, and they are grouped in pairs (+/-) to make connections easy.

The DCSSR is designed to switch DC loads between 0 and 30 Volts. The MOSFETs are rated to great than 10 Amps each, however as fitted to the PCB, I would limit to individual channel load to 2 to 3 Amps max. A suitable heatsink will be required.

== Schematic Diagram ==

A [http://www.christmasinshirley.com/wiki/images/0/09/DCSSR_Sch_1.1.pdf] diagram of the DC SSR is available.

== Parts List ==

The PCB is available from [http://www.christmasinshirley.com/forum/profile.php?mode=viewprofile&u=11 wjohn] on the Forum.

511-STF20NF06 4
782-K847PH 1
660-CF1/4C681J 5
660-CF1/4C471J 4
660-CF1/4C103J 4
604-WP7104IT 1
571-5202514 1
863-MC78L05ACPRPG 1
538-39890-0302 5
571-3902614 1
80-C322C104Z5U 1

571-3902614 is an optional IC socket, the rest of the parts are the Mouser part # and quantity required.
[http://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=760f3cd923 Click on this link to load a Mouser BOM]

== Construction Notes ==

1. When placing the Vreg (863-MC78L05ACPRPG), note that the PCB screen is reversed (PCB v1.0) from the Vreg data spec. Check voltage across the Vout and ground of the Vreg to ensure 5 volts output to avoid damage to the Vreg or MOSFETs.

2. When placing the optional MOSFETs (512-RFP14N05L), note that the tab is conductive and connect to the drain. If the tabs of the MOSFETs touch, extra channels will trigger. Ensure there is space between MOSFETs and do not use a single conductive heat sink across all 4 MOSFETs. In preference, us the original specified part, 511-STF20NF06, which is tab isolated.

== Completed DC SSR ==

[[Image:DC SSR.jpg]]

== Errata for Rev 1.0 PCB ==

1. The Vreg listed on BOM (863-MC78L05ACPRPG) is correct, the silkscreen is in error. You need to spin the 78L05 180 deg from that shown on the silk screen (flat faces the MOSFET).

2. The MOSFETs listed on BOM (511-STF20NF06) is from the original design. Some DIYC members have used the optional MOSFET, and you need to ensure that the tabs are not touching as they are not electrically isolated.

3. The data sheet for the Vreg on BOM (863-MC78L05ACPRPG) requires an input capacitor as noted in data sheet. the quick fix is to solder a cap across pins #1 and #2 of the 7805 pads, if using the 78L05.

File:DCSSR Sch 1.1.pdf

2010-06-28T00:09:49Z

Wjohn: Schematic Diagram for DC SSR Version 1.1

Schematic Diagram for DC SSR Version 1.1

4 Channel DCSSR Assembly Instructions

2010-01-22T12:08:47Z

Wjohn: /* Parts List */

== Background ==

The DC SSR project was commenced at the request of Scott Nething, who wanted to control some DC Devices for Halloween. We worked on this project and had some prototype boards working for the shows, and I have subesquently tested the DC SSRs with LED MR16s, and dimmed them using PWM code from a RENARD.

== Design ==

The board is a simple design, and follows the standard connection for an AC SSR COOP board. The RJ45 Socket provides the connection from the DC SSR to the Controller. The LED on the board indicates 5VDC is being supplied from the Controller to the OPTO.

The OPTO, which is different to the MCO3023Ms used on the AC SSR, is a K84PH, 16 pin DIP IC. I purchased mine from Mouser. 782-K847PH was the Mouser Part # and they cost $1.02 each, and here is the [http://www.vishay.com/docs/83522/83522.pdf Datasheet] The OPTO provides DC isolation from the Controller to the DC load. this is a safety feature, though some would suggest it could be deleted, I felt that will storms and electrical noise, it makes sense to isolate the PC and controller from the Lights.

The load switching is provided by MOSFETs.

The original MOSFET used was a STF20NF06 and here is the [http://www.datasheetcatalog.org/datasheet2/3/06fsdziq30itys6isqu3r0hy1uky.pdf datasheet]. The original MOSFET was plastic tab isolated.

an optional part is the Mouser, RFD14N05L, as part # [http://www.mouser.com/search/Refine.aspx?Ne=1447464+254016&Ntt=*512RFP14N05L*&Ntx=mode%2bmatchall&Mkw=512-RFP14N05L&N=1323038&Ntk=Mouser_Wildcards 512-RFP14N05L] and here is the [http://www.fairchildsemi.com/ds/RF/RFP14N05L.pdf Datasheet]

There is a regulated 5V DC supply for the OPTOs, provided by either a 7805 or a 78L05 on the PCB. the PCB has mount holes for the TO-220 or TO-92 case style.

Euro style screw connectors are specificed for the board, and they are grouped in pairs (+/-) to make connections easy.

The DCSSR is designed to switch DC loads between 0 and 30 Volts. The MOSFETs are rated to great than 10 Amps each, however as fitted to the PCB, I would limit to individual channel load to 2 to 3 Amps max. A suitable heatsink will be required.

== Schematic Diagram ==

A [http://christmasinshirley.com/wiki/images/0/08/DC_SSR_V1.0_Schematic.pdf Schematic] diagram of the DC SSR is available.

== Parts List ==

The PCB is available from [http://www.christmasinshirley.com/forum/profile.php?mode=viewprofile&u=11 wjohn] on the Forum.

511-STF20NF06 4
782-K847PH 1
660-CF1/4C681J 5
660-CF1/4C471J 4
660-CF1/4C103J 4
604-WP7104IT 1
571-5202514 1
863-MC78L05ACPRPG 1
538-39890-0302 5
571-3902614 1
80-C322C104Z5U 1

571-3902614 is an optional IC socket, the rest of the parts are the Mouser part # and quantity required.
[http://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=760f3cd923 Click on this link to load a Mouser BOM]

== Construction Notes ==

1. When placing the Vreg (863-MC78L05ACPRPG), note that the PCB screen is reversed (PCB v1.0) from the Vreg data spec. Check voltage across the Vout and ground of the Vreg to ensure 5 volts output to avoid damage to the Vreg or MOSFETs.

2. When placing the optional MOSFETs (512-RFP14N05L), note that the tab is conductive and connect to the drain. If the tabs of the MOSFETs touch, extra channels will trigger. Ensure there is space between MOSFETs and do not use a single conductive heat sink across all 4 MOSFETs. In preference, us the original specified part, 511-STF20NF06, which is tab isolated.

== Completed DC SSR ==

[[Image:DC SSR.jpg]]

== Errata for Rev 1.0 PCB ==

1. The Vreg listed on BOM (863-MC78L05ACPRPG) is correct, the silkscreen is in error. You need to spin the 78L05 180 deg from that shown on the silk screen (flat faces the MOSFET).

2. The MOSFETs listed on BOM (511-STF20NF06) is from the original design. Some DIYC members have used the optional MOSFET, and you need to ensure that the tabs are not touching as they are not electrically isolated.

3. The data sheet for the Vreg on BOM (863-MC78L05ACPRPG) requires an input capacitor as noted in data sheet. the quick fix is to solder a cap across pins #1 and #2 of the 7805 pads, if using the 78L05.

4 Channel DCSSR Assembly Instructions

2010-01-22T12:07:30Z

Wjohn: /* Parts List */

== Background ==

The DC SSR project was commenced at the request of Scott Nething, who wanted to control some DC Devices for Halloween. We worked on this project and had some prototype boards working for the shows, and I have subesquently tested the DC SSRs with LED MR16s, and dimmed them using PWM code from a RENARD.

== Design ==

The board is a simple design, and follows the standard connection for an AC SSR COOP board. The RJ45 Socket provides the connection from the DC SSR to the Controller. The LED on the board indicates 5VDC is being supplied from the Controller to the OPTO.

The OPTO, which is different to the MCO3023Ms used on the AC SSR, is a K84PH, 16 pin DIP IC. I purchased mine from Mouser. 782-K847PH was the Mouser Part # and they cost $1.02 each, and here is the [http://www.vishay.com/docs/83522/83522.pdf Datasheet] The OPTO provides DC isolation from the Controller to the DC load. this is a safety feature, though some would suggest it could be deleted, I felt that will storms and electrical noise, it makes sense to isolate the PC and controller from the Lights.

The load switching is provided by MOSFETs.

The original MOSFET used was a STF20NF06 and here is the [http://www.datasheetcatalog.org/datasheet2/3/06fsdziq30itys6isqu3r0hy1uky.pdf datasheet]. The original MOSFET was plastic tab isolated.

an optional part is the Mouser, RFD14N05L, as part # [http://www.mouser.com/search/Refine.aspx?Ne=1447464+254016&Ntt=*512RFP14N05L*&Ntx=mode%2bmatchall&Mkw=512-RFP14N05L&N=1323038&Ntk=Mouser_Wildcards 512-RFP14N05L] and here is the [http://www.fairchildsemi.com/ds/RF/RFP14N05L.pdf Datasheet]

There is a regulated 5V DC supply for the OPTOs, provided by either a 7805 or a 78L05 on the PCB. the PCB has mount holes for the TO-220 or TO-92 case style.

Euro style screw connectors are specificed for the board, and they are grouped in pairs (+/-) to make connections easy.

The DCSSR is designed to switch DC loads between 0 and 30 Volts. The MOSFETs are rated to great than 10 Amps each, however as fitted to the PCB, I would limit to individual channel load to 2 to 3 Amps max. A suitable heatsink will be required.

== Schematic Diagram ==

A [http://christmasinshirley.com/wiki/images/0/08/DC_SSR_V1.0_Schematic.pdf Schematic] diagram of the DC SSR is available.

== Parts List ==

The PCB is available from [http://www.christmasinshirley.com/forum/profile.php?mode=viewprofile&u=11 wjohn] on the Forum.

511-STF20NF06 4
782-K847PH 1
660-CF1/4C681J 5
660-CF1/4C471J 4
660-CF1/4C103J 4
604-WP7104IT 1
571-5202514 1
863-MC78L05ACPRPG 1
538-39890-0302 5
571-3902614 1
80-C322C104Z5U 1

571-3902614 is an optional IC socket, the rest of the parts are the Mouser part # and quantity required.
[http://http://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=760f3cd923 Click on this link to load a Mouser BOM]

== Construction Notes ==

1. When placing the Vreg (863-MC78L05ACPRPG), note that the PCB screen is reversed (PCB v1.0) from the Vreg data spec. Check voltage across the Vout and ground of the Vreg to ensure 5 volts output to avoid damage to the Vreg or MOSFETs.

2. When placing the optional MOSFETs (512-RFP14N05L), note that the tab is conductive and connect to the drain. If the tabs of the MOSFETs touch, extra channels will trigger. Ensure there is space between MOSFETs and do not use a single conductive heat sink across all 4 MOSFETs. In preference, us the original specified part, 511-STF20NF06, which is tab isolated.

== Completed DC SSR ==

[[Image:DC SSR.jpg]]

== Errata for Rev 1.0 PCB ==

1. The Vreg listed on BOM (863-MC78L05ACPRPG) is correct, the silkscreen is in error. You need to spin the 78L05 180 deg from that shown on the silk screen (flat faces the MOSFET).

2. The MOSFETs listed on BOM (511-STF20NF06) is from the original design. Some DIYC members have used the optional MOSFET, and you need to ensure that the tabs are not touching as they are not electrically isolated.

3. The data sheet for the Vreg on BOM (863-MC78L05ACPRPG) requires an input capacitor as noted in data sheet. the quick fix is to solder a cap across pins #1 and #2 of the 7805 pads, if using the 78L05.

Renard-595 Converter

2010-01-09T01:03:38Z

Wjohn: /* Zero Crossing Signal Options */

== Introduction ==
The Renard-595 Converter (aka Ren-C) board is designed to allow the 64-Channel Olsen 595 and GRINCH controller boards to be controlled through the serial port of a PC. The Ren-C also adds a 192-level dimming capability to these boards.

The current 595-style (including the GRINCH) controllers are designed to turn display lights on and off under computer control. They are connected to the parallel port of the controlling PC and have the capability of being daisy-chained together. This daisy-chain configuration allows up to approximately 1024 channels to be controlled through one parallel port. This large channel count is highly desirable by many users but the lack of a dimming capability frustrates many others. Previous attempts to add a dimming capability to these systems resulted in using eight on/off channels to create one channel with dimming capability. The complexity of the design and cost in resources kept it from being widely used, thus the need for a different solution and the birth of the Ren-C.

 

==The Board==
[[Image:Ren-C (top).jpg]]

 

[[Image:Ren-C (dwg).jpg]]

 

==Circuit Diagram==
The schematic diagram can be found [http://www.christmasinshirley.com/wiki/images/e/ec/Protel_Schematic_V2.0.2.pdf here].

The PCB diagram can be found [http://www.christmasinshirley.com/wiki/images/f/fb/Multilayer_Composite_Print_V2.0.2.pdf here].

'''Connectors'''
:* '''To 595 In (JP1)''' – Provides the Data, Clock and Strobe signals to the 595/GRINCH controller. Also, provides the Ren-C an operating voltage from the 595/GRINCH controller.

:* '''From 595 Out (JP2)''' – Brings the output of the shift-register on the 595/GRINCH board back to the Ren-C to enable PWM operation. This cable can be omitted if PWM operation is not needed/desired.

:* '''RS IN (JP4)''' – RS232/RS485 incoming data and ZC signals from an up-stream controller board or controlling PC.

:* '''RS OUT (JP5)''' – RS232/RS485 outgoing data and ZC signals for downstream controller boards.

'''IC Chips'''
:* '''U1''' – RS232/RS485 Receiver/Transmitter
:* '''U2''' – Quad NOR gate
:* '''U3''' – PIC16F627A Microcontroller (the brain of the Ren-C)

'''Diagnostic LEDs'''
:* '''D3''' Heartbeat – Blinks on/off at the rate of the ZC signal
:* '''D4''' Overrun – Indicates an data overrun error in the usart of the PIC
:* '''D5''' Framing – Indicates a data framing error in the usart of the PIC
:* '''D6''' Power – Lit whenever power is applied to the board
:* '''D7''' Rx – Lit whenever RS232/RS485 data is received by the PIC

'''Headers'''
:* '''JP3''' – 4-pin connector that provides an alternate method for bringing the ZC signal and operating voltage (5 VDC) onto the board.

:* '''JP6''' - 6-pin connector that can be used to program the PIC in-circuit with either a PicKit2 Programmer (DV164120 or PG164120) or the bare programmer from PicKit1 (PG164101).

'''Test Points'''
:* '''TP1''' – Clock Out
:* '''TP2, TP5''' – PWM Reset In
:* '''TP3''' – Data Out
:* '''TP4''' – Strobe Out

==Firmware==
:The PIC (U3) must be programmed with the latest firmware for the Ren-C to operate properly. The firmware can be found [[Renard Firmware#Firmware for Ren-C | here]].

==Connection==

:Some of the signals on the Ren-C are fairly high-speed (2.5 MHz), so the cables between the Ren-C board and the 595/GRINCH controller should be as short as possible. Cable length should not exceed 6".

'''Typical Single Ren-C Connection'''
[[Image: Ren-C Layout 1.jpg |800px]] 

'''Typical Multiple Ren-C Connection'''
[[Image: Ren-C Layout 2.jpg |800px]] 

'''Other Connections'''
:*The Ren-C/GRINCH(Olsen 595) combo can be worked into any display configuration with other Renard based controller boards on the same serial port connection. The main requirement is that the Ren-C/GRINCH(Olsen 595) combo must receive valid Renard protocol formatted channel data and a ZC signal.

'''Limitations'''
:*The number of Ren-C/GRINCH(Olsen 595) combos that can be linked together is limited by the maximum amount of channels that can be achieved based on the baud rate and event interval that VIXEN is using. More information on this limitation can be found [[Renard#Number of Circuits (Channels)| here]].

==Powering the Ren-C==
The Ren-C requires an external power source to operate. This power source must be regulated/filtered 5 VDC. There are two possible methods of applying power to the Ren-C.

'''Power Connections'''
:*'''Option 1''' [Preferred Method]
:::The Ren-C can get it’s operating voltage from the COOP OLSEN 595 or GRINCH controller board that it is connected to. With this option the COOP OLSEN 595 or GRINCH controller board would be connected directly to the external 5 VDC power supply at either P1 or J2 respectfully. By placing a shunt on J1, this would allow the 5 VDC to be passed to the Ren-C via the RJ45 IN/OUT connectors on pin 1.

:*'''Option 2'''
:::The Ren-C can be powered directly by an external 5 VDC power supply. This can be accomplished by connecting 5VDC to pin 4 and GND to pin 1 of header JP3. When using this option you should remove the shunt from J1 of the connected COOP OLSEN 595 or GRINCH controller board to prevent any problems with the associated external power sources.

There are many options of what to use for the external power source. Some users prefer to use an unused hard drive power connection inside the computer that is being used to run VIXEN. Others prefer to use an old computer power supply that they modify to run as a stand-alone power supply. And there are others that have had success in using wall-warts but care should be used with wall-warts since not all of them provide a regulated/filtered output.

==Zero Crossing Signal Options==
The Zero Crossing (ZC) signal is one of the most difficult signals for new users to understand. Simply put, ZC is the point at which the AC signal crosses zero volts. The ZC point needs to be known so that the triacs can be turned on/off at the correct time to achieve a dimming effect.

One of the factors that adds to confusion is that the ZC signal is actually different at various points in the overall light control process. The output of the Ren-T (green trace in picture below) is commonly referred to as a ZC signal. This raw ZC is not in a suitable form to be used by the PIC. By applying this signal to base of Q1 on the Ren-C, we will get a new ZC signal (purple trace in picture below) that the PIC can use to for the dimming timing.

Now that you understand the ZC signal, you can better decide how you want to get a ZC signal on the Ren-C.

:*'''Option 1'''
:::ZC can be generated on the board, by connecting a 9VDC (unregulated and unfiltered) supply to pins #7,8 of the RS IN RJ45 socket. This input signal (green trace in picture below) is a pulsating signal, rising from 0V to 9V and back in time with the AC power line (100 or 120 times per second, depending on your locale). This signal is the normal output from the Ren-T or it can be created using this [[Renard Connection Instructions#Ren-T (Transformer Board)|circuit]].

:*'''Option 2'''
:::ZC can be generated on the board, by connecting a 9VDC (unregulated and unfiltered) supply to The "ZC In" pin (#3) of JP3. This signal (green trace in picture below) can be created using a schematic like this [[Renard Connection Instructions#Ren-T (Transformer Board)|circuit]]. With this option, you will need to install a 10K resistor in location R1 instead of R9.

:*'''Option 3'''
:::ZC can be connected directly to the board, by connecting a ZC Signal (purple trace in picture below), to the "ZC" pin (#2) of JP3. With this option, you can remove R1, R9 and Q1.

[[Image:ZeroCross.gif|center]]

==ZC and RENT requirements==
When the REN64XB and RENC were first released, there was an extra board that was made available, the RENT. The function of the RENT was to provide power and a source of ZC to the controllers.

The RENC did not require separate power as it draws 5 V DC from the GRINCH board. What it does need is a source of ZC.

What is ZC? Zero Cross reference. When dimming, the RENC needs to know the start of the AC signal waveform, i.e. when it crosses over Zero V AC. A small sample of AC voltage is required to obtain the ZC.

There are a couple of options.

Option 1 - User a small AC stepdown transformer (12.6V CT) and build a simple circuit to rectify the Low V AC to DC.

[[Image:Simple RenT Design.jpg | 400px]]

Option 2 - Use a small AC stepdown transformer (12.6V CT) and build a OPTOISOLATOR circuit to provide a source of ZC.

[[Image:Another RENT (H11A1).jpg | 400px]]

==Computer Setup==
'''VIXEN Settings'''
:*The Ren-C requires the Renard Dimmer or Renard Dimmer (modified) Plug-In.
::'''Renard Dimmer Plug-In Settings:'''
:::Protocol Version: 1
:::COM1 (or whichever COM port you are connected to)
:::Baud: 57600
:::Parity: None
:::Data bits: 8
:::Stop bits: One

==Related Links==
[[REN-C_PCB_ASSEMBLY_INSTRUCTIONS | Ren-C PCB Assembly Instructions]] 
[[The_GRINCH_Controller | The GRINCH Controller]] 
[[64 Channel Olsen 595 Controller Assembly Instructions | COOP OLSEN 595 Controller]] 
[[Ren-T_Assembly_Instructions|REN-T]] 
[[Vixen|VIXEN]] 

[[Category:Ren-C]]
[[Category:Renard]]

Renard64

2010-01-09T00:58:18Z

Wjohn: /* BOM For Mouser */

Revision XA board (first revision)

=== Schematic===

[[Media:Renard64_sch_002.pdf]]

=== Layout ===

'''Important Note:''' The entire solder side of the PCB is a ground plane, which will tend to absorb and redistribute heat. It is highly recommended that you use a good, temperature controlled soldering iron to assemble the board. Ordinary pen-style soldering irons may not get hot enough to make good solder connections, especially to pins that connect to the ground plane.

'''XA PCB'''

[http://picdimmer.17.forumer.com/viewtopic.php?t=97&start=0&sid=f55749898f2660d9752a1a6439e40bc2 Picdimmer forum thread]

'''XB PCB'''

[[Image:Renard64_layout_XB.gif]]

=== COOP PCB V2.0 ===

[[Image:IMG 0092.jpg]]

=== BOM ===

There are several alternatives listed below for providing a zero-crossing signal. The first choice is listed as preferred, because that is the selection that works with the Ren-T board. The second alternative is OK (requires an external low-voltage transformer). The third alternative will work also, but its use is discouraged because it requires that 110VAC be brought onto the controller board.

<pre>
PCB
1 TBA Renard 64-Port PCB

Resistors

3 299-27K-RC 27K Resistor, 1/8 W, Axial (RS485 pull) R5,R8,R14
2 299-1K-RC 1K Resistor, 1/8 W, Axial (RS485 series) R4,R7
1 660-MF1/4DCT52R1200F 120 Resistor, 1/4 W, Axial R6
1 299-330-RC 330 Resistor, 1/8 W, Axial (for power LED) R19

Capacitors

8 80-C322C104K5R 0.1 uF Radial-lead Ceramic Capacitor C3-C10
1 647-UVR1C470MDD 47 uF, 16V Radial-Lead Elect. Cap C2

Diodes
1 78-1N5229B 4.3v 0.5w Zener D4 (left)
1 78-1N5239B 9.1v 0.5w Zener D5 (near R5 on XB) or D4 (right, on XA)
1 604-WP7104GT T1 Green LED D5 (near U11)

Connectors

2 571-5202514 AMP Modular Jacks, Right Angle J3, J4
16 538-95003-2881 Molex Modular Jacks, Vertical PCB mount J5-16, J18-21
1 571-640454-2 AMP Polarized Header (2-Pin, Straight Post) J17
8 575-199314 14 Pin Low Profile IC Socket U7-U14
1 571-1032393 3-Pin Straight Header J2
1 151-8000 2-Pin Shunt J2
1 538-70543-0002 3-Pin Shrouded Header (see notes 1-3 below) U1
1 538-50-57-9403 3-Pin SL Connector (mate to preceding item) XU1
3 538-16-02-0103 Crimp Terminals, Female, 22-24AWG, 15μ Au XU1

ICs

2 511-ST485BN RS485 Connectors U4,U5
8 579-PIC16F688-I/P PIC16F688, unprogrammed, DIP14, Industrial Temp U7-14

Oscillator
1 520-TCH1843-X Oscillator, 18.432 MHz, 5V, 8-DIP U3

ZC Alternative 1 (if zero-crossing is brought in on J17 or through J3/J4, preferred)
1 299-10K-RC 10K Resistor, 1/8 W, Axial R9
1 512-2N3904TFR 2N3904 Transistor Q1

ZC Alternative 2 (if 12VAC is brought into J1 as the zero-crossing source)
1 571-640454-2 AMP Polarized Header (2-Pin, Straight Post) J1
1 782-H11AA1 Optoisolator U6
2 299-1.5K-RC 1.5K Resistor, 1/8 W Resistor R1,R2

ZC Alternative 3 (if 110VAC is brought into J1 as the zero-crossing source, discouraged).
1 571-640454-2 AMP Polarized Header (2-Pin, Straight Post) J1
1 782-H11AA1 Optoisolator U6
2 71-CCF60-15K-E3 15K Resistor, 3/4 W, MF Resistor R1,R2

Optional (if per/port LEDs are desired)
64 859-LTL-403G LEDs, Rectangular, Green
8 652-4608X-1LF-680 Resistor Network, 680 Ohm, 8-Pin, Bussed R10-13, R20-23
8 299-680-RC Resistor, 680 Ohm, 1/8W R15-18, R24-27

Optional (if using on-board regulator with unfiltered power brought in through J4, see note 1 below)
1 625-1N5819-E3 50v 1A Schottky Diode D1
1 511-L4940V5 Regulator, LDO, 5V, 1.5A U1
1 140-XRL16V1000-RC 1000 uF, 16V Radial-Lead Elect. Cap C1

</pre>

Note 1: The on-board regulator should only be used if measures are taken to keep the current consumption down (omitting the on-board LEDs, and using the non-PWM firmware). If the LEDs are used and the PWM firmware is installed, the current consumption of the board is about 1A, and so the regulator will dissipate too much power (the small value of C1 precludes decreasing the input voltage). If you are using an external PC power supply, you don't need these optional parts.

If the on-board regulator is used, omit the header that is designated for U1.

Note 2: The specified connectors for bringing in external power are 15μ Gold, you may change this if you have other preferences. Also, the molex calls for using a crimp tool. The ones in the mouser catalog are pretty expensive, and I don't know how well the Radio Shack ones will work.

Note 3: An alternative to the Molex power connectors is to use a modified, spare IDE disk drive Y-cable (or similar) as a pigtail from the board.

Revision History

7/21/2007 BOM copied from picdimmer forum, on-board regulator made optional
7/21/2007 Value of regulator parts (diode, regulator, cap) changed.
7/21/2007 Value of LED current limit resistors changed.
7/22/2007 Changed p/n of TYCO/Amp vert. mount connector to ROHS, added note about physical size problem with them.
7/24/2007 Deleted TYCO/Amp vert. mount jacks, they don't fit. Use the Molex Jacks instead.
7/24/2007 Changed value of C2, to agree with datasheet for regulator even at low temperatures.
8/07/2007 Change vendor, pn for optional 680 Ohm resistor network to one that is more readily available.
8/07/2007 Change description of 299-series resistors (previously had the wrong power rating).
8/07/2007 Created two zero-crossing alternatives.
8/12/2007 Added new zero-crossing alternative (the new alternative 2)
8/27/2007 Added Two 3-Pin headers (for J2, U1) and a 2-pin shunt (J2).
9/02/2007 Changed two part numbers (added dashes), modified note regarding on-board regulator.
10/01/2007 Changed part numbers for power connector, added notes regarding that.
10/01/2007 Fixed incorrect p/n for 3-pin header.
12/13/2007 Fixed part number on voltage regulator.

=== Construction Notes ===

1) The '+' leads of C1 and C2 go in the holes with the square pads.

2) The anodes of the status LEDs (long lead) go in the holes with the square pads.

3) The cathodes (the end with the band) of diodes D1, D4, and D5 go in the holes with the square pads.

4) The pin with the dot above it on the resistor network component should be installed in the square hole.

=== Errata for Rev XA PCB ===

1) The trace between J4 and D1 is too small, and needs to be beefed up if the board is configured to draw more than 1/2A through J4.
2) There are two diodes labeled D4.
3) The holes for D1 are too small.
4) The silkscreen reference designator for C3 (above U10) is missing.

==XC PCB Current release==

The first prototype, with some parts still to be fitted. Tested on Jan 20, 2008.

[[Image:REN64 XC Proto Small.jpg]]

=== Connections ===

==== RS232 Input ====

Over short distances this board can be directly connected to an RS232 serial I/O port. The input cable can be a 9-pin straight-through cable. It should be kept as short as possible, on the order of 20 feet or less. A shunt should be installed between the two pins of JP1 when using an RS232 input source.

Pin Assignments:
Pin 5 - ground
Pin 3 - serial input signal.

==== RS485 Input/Output ====

These connectors may be directly connected to Ren16/Ren24(rev 3.0 and higher) and to other Ren64 board (all versions).

Pinout:
1,2 - ground
4 - RXD+/TXD- (inverting input/output of transceiver)
5 - RXD-/TXD+ (non-inverting input/output of transceiver)

Remove the shunt from JP1 for RS485 input.

==== Power Input ====

The board is designed to be powered with a 6.3VAC, 1A transformer, providing both power and a zero-crossing signal at the same time. One potential transformer for this application is the Xicon 41FD010 transformer (mouser p/n 41FD010). The center-tap of this transformer should be left open, perhaps covered with a wire nut to protect it from inadvertant short-circuits.

==== Other Connections ====

Pin 3 of the RJ45 serial input connector J4 is connected to pin 3 of the RJ45 serial output connector J3 with a signal trace.

Pins 7 and 8 of the RJ45 serial input connector J4 is connected to pins 7 and 8 of the serial output connector J3 with a trace capable of carrying 1A or so of current (current capacity to be verified).

=== Schematic===

[[Media:Renard64_xc.pdf]]

=== Layout Image ===

[[Image:renard64_xc5b.gif]]

=== BOM ===

<pre>

Note: This BOM does not include a transformer, power cords or connectors for the primary side of the transformer.

PCB
1 TBA Renard 64-Port PCB

Resistors

2 299-750-RC 750 Resistor, 1/8 W, Axial R1,R2
1 660-MF1/4DCT52R1200F 120 Resistor, 1/4 W, Axial R3
3 299-27K-RC 27K Resistor, 1/8 W, Axial (RS485 pull) R5,R8,R14
2 299-1K-RC 1K Resistor, 1/8 W, Axial (RS485 series) R4,R7
1 299-330-RC 330 Resistor, 1/8 W, Axial (for power LED) R19

Capacitors

1 140-XRL16V6800-RC 6800 uF, 16V Radial-Lead Elect. Cap C1
8 80-C322C104K5R 0.1 uF Radial-lead Ceramic Capacitor C3-C10
1 647-UVR1C470MDD 47 uF, 16V Radial-Lead Elect. Cap C2

Diodes
4 625-1N5817-E3 Schottky Diode (20V, 1A) D1-D4
1 78-1N5229B 4.3v 0.5w Zener D5
1 78-1N5239B 9.1v 0.5w Zener D6
1 604-WP7104GT T1 Green LED D7

Connectors

2 571-5520251-4 AMP Modular Jacks, Right Angle J3, J4
16 571-5556416-1 AMP Modular Jacks, Vertical PCB mount J5-16, J18-21
1 636-182-009-213R531 Norcomp DE9 Female Rt Angle D-sub Conn J22
8 575-199314 14 Pin Low Profile IC Socket U7-U14
1 538-22-03-2021 Molex PCB Header 2-pin JP1
1 151-8000 2-Pin Shunt JP1
2 534-4902 Male Sturdi-mount Terminal Tab1, Tab2
2 159-2215 Vinyl Insulated Couplers (Female) Tab1, Tab2

ICs

1 511-L4940V5 Regulator, LDO, 5V, 1.5A U1
2 511-ST485BN RS485 Connectors U4,U5
1 782-H11AA1 Optoisolator U6
8 579-PIC16F688-I/P PIC16F688, unprogrammed, DIP14, Industrial Temp U7-14

Oscillator
1 520-TCH1843-X Oscillator, 18.432 MHz, 5V, 8-DIP U3

Optional (if per/port LEDs are desired)
64 859-LTL-403G LEDs, Rectangular, Green
8 652-4608X-1LF-680 Resistor Network, 680 Ohm, 8-Pin, Bussed R10-13, R20-23
8 299-680-RC Resistor, 680 Ohm, 1/8W R15-18, R24-27

</pre>

=== BOM For Mouser ===
[http://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=cfd7f63914 Mouser REN64XC BOM ]

<pre>

299-750-RC 2
660-MF1/4DCT52R1200F 1
299-27K-RC 3
299-1K-RC 2
299-330-RC 1
140-XRL16V6800-RC 1
80-C322C104K5R 8
647-UVR1C470MDD 1
625-1N5817-E3 4
78-1N5229B 1
78-1N5239B 1
604-WP7104SGC 1
571-5520251-4 2
571-5556416-1 16
636-182-009-213R531 1
575-199314 8
538-22-03-2021 1
151-8000 1
534-4902 2
159-2215 2
511-L4940V5 1
511-ST485BN 2
782-H11AA1 1
579-PIC16F688-I/P 8
520-TCH1843-X 1
604-WP113GDT 64
652-4608X-1LF-680 8
299-680-RC 8

</pre>

XC revision History

2008/01/21 PJS DE9 connector (J22) added to BOM
2008/01/25 PJS changed value of R1, R2 to 750 Ohm (was improperly calculated for 6.3VAC input).
2008/02/18 PJS changed value of C1

Renard64

2010-01-09T00:57:59Z

Wjohn: /* BOM For Mouser */

Revision XA board (first revision)

=== Schematic===

[[Media:Renard64_sch_002.pdf]]

=== Layout ===

'''Important Note:''' The entire solder side of the PCB is a ground plane, which will tend to absorb and redistribute heat. It is highly recommended that you use a good, temperature controlled soldering iron to assemble the board. Ordinary pen-style soldering irons may not get hot enough to make good solder connections, especially to pins that connect to the ground plane.

'''XA PCB'''

[http://picdimmer.17.forumer.com/viewtopic.php?t=97&start=0&sid=f55749898f2660d9752a1a6439e40bc2 Picdimmer forum thread]

'''XB PCB'''

[[Image:Renard64_layout_XB.gif]]

=== COOP PCB V2.0 ===

[[Image:IMG 0092.jpg]]

=== BOM ===

There are several alternatives listed below for providing a zero-crossing signal. The first choice is listed as preferred, because that is the selection that works with the Ren-T board. The second alternative is OK (requires an external low-voltage transformer). The third alternative will work also, but its use is discouraged because it requires that 110VAC be brought onto the controller board.

<pre>
PCB
1 TBA Renard 64-Port PCB

Resistors

3 299-27K-RC 27K Resistor, 1/8 W, Axial (RS485 pull) R5,R8,R14
2 299-1K-RC 1K Resistor, 1/8 W, Axial (RS485 series) R4,R7
1 660-MF1/4DCT52R1200F 120 Resistor, 1/4 W, Axial R6
1 299-330-RC 330 Resistor, 1/8 W, Axial (for power LED) R19

Capacitors

8 80-C322C104K5R 0.1 uF Radial-lead Ceramic Capacitor C3-C10
1 647-UVR1C470MDD 47 uF, 16V Radial-Lead Elect. Cap C2

Diodes
1 78-1N5229B 4.3v 0.5w Zener D4 (left)
1 78-1N5239B 9.1v 0.5w Zener D5 (near R5 on XB) or D4 (right, on XA)
1 604-WP7104GT T1 Green LED D5 (near U11)

Connectors

2 571-5202514 AMP Modular Jacks, Right Angle J3, J4
16 538-95003-2881 Molex Modular Jacks, Vertical PCB mount J5-16, J18-21
1 571-640454-2 AMP Polarized Header (2-Pin, Straight Post) J17
8 575-199314 14 Pin Low Profile IC Socket U7-U14
1 571-1032393 3-Pin Straight Header J2
1 151-8000 2-Pin Shunt J2
1 538-70543-0002 3-Pin Shrouded Header (see notes 1-3 below) U1
1 538-50-57-9403 3-Pin SL Connector (mate to preceding item) XU1
3 538-16-02-0103 Crimp Terminals, Female, 22-24AWG, 15μ Au XU1

ICs

2 511-ST485BN RS485 Connectors U4,U5
8 579-PIC16F688-I/P PIC16F688, unprogrammed, DIP14, Industrial Temp U7-14

Oscillator
1 520-TCH1843-X Oscillator, 18.432 MHz, 5V, 8-DIP U3

ZC Alternative 1 (if zero-crossing is brought in on J17 or through J3/J4, preferred)
1 299-10K-RC 10K Resistor, 1/8 W, Axial R9
1 512-2N3904TFR 2N3904 Transistor Q1

ZC Alternative 2 (if 12VAC is brought into J1 as the zero-crossing source)
1 571-640454-2 AMP Polarized Header (2-Pin, Straight Post) J1
1 782-H11AA1 Optoisolator U6
2 299-1.5K-RC 1.5K Resistor, 1/8 W Resistor R1,R2

ZC Alternative 3 (if 110VAC is brought into J1 as the zero-crossing source, discouraged).
1 571-640454-2 AMP Polarized Header (2-Pin, Straight Post) J1
1 782-H11AA1 Optoisolator U6
2 71-CCF60-15K-E3 15K Resistor, 3/4 W, MF Resistor R1,R2

Optional (if per/port LEDs are desired)
64 859-LTL-403G LEDs, Rectangular, Green
8 652-4608X-1LF-680 Resistor Network, 680 Ohm, 8-Pin, Bussed R10-13, R20-23
8 299-680-RC Resistor, 680 Ohm, 1/8W R15-18, R24-27

Optional (if using on-board regulator with unfiltered power brought in through J4, see note 1 below)
1 625-1N5819-E3 50v 1A Schottky Diode D1
1 511-L4940V5 Regulator, LDO, 5V, 1.5A U1
1 140-XRL16V1000-RC 1000 uF, 16V Radial-Lead Elect. Cap C1

</pre>

Note 1: The on-board regulator should only be used if measures are taken to keep the current consumption down (omitting the on-board LEDs, and using the non-PWM firmware). If the LEDs are used and the PWM firmware is installed, the current consumption of the board is about 1A, and so the regulator will dissipate too much power (the small value of C1 precludes decreasing the input voltage). If you are using an external PC power supply, you don't need these optional parts.

If the on-board regulator is used, omit the header that is designated for U1.

Note 2: The specified connectors for bringing in external power are 15μ Gold, you may change this if you have other preferences. Also, the molex calls for using a crimp tool. The ones in the mouser catalog are pretty expensive, and I don't know how well the Radio Shack ones will work.

Note 3: An alternative to the Molex power connectors is to use a modified, spare IDE disk drive Y-cable (or similar) as a pigtail from the board.

Revision History

7/21/2007 BOM copied from picdimmer forum, on-board regulator made optional
7/21/2007 Value of regulator parts (diode, regulator, cap) changed.
7/21/2007 Value of LED current limit resistors changed.
7/22/2007 Changed p/n of TYCO/Amp vert. mount connector to ROHS, added note about physical size problem with them.
7/24/2007 Deleted TYCO/Amp vert. mount jacks, they don't fit. Use the Molex Jacks instead.
7/24/2007 Changed value of C2, to agree with datasheet for regulator even at low temperatures.
8/07/2007 Change vendor, pn for optional 680 Ohm resistor network to one that is more readily available.
8/07/2007 Change description of 299-series resistors (previously had the wrong power rating).
8/07/2007 Created two zero-crossing alternatives.
8/12/2007 Added new zero-crossing alternative (the new alternative 2)
8/27/2007 Added Two 3-Pin headers (for J2, U1) and a 2-pin shunt (J2).
9/02/2007 Changed two part numbers (added dashes), modified note regarding on-board regulator.
10/01/2007 Changed part numbers for power connector, added notes regarding that.
10/01/2007 Fixed incorrect p/n for 3-pin header.
12/13/2007 Fixed part number on voltage regulator.

=== Construction Notes ===

1) The '+' leads of C1 and C2 go in the holes with the square pads.

2) The anodes of the status LEDs (long lead) go in the holes with the square pads.

3) The cathodes (the end with the band) of diodes D1, D4, and D5 go in the holes with the square pads.

4) The pin with the dot above it on the resistor network component should be installed in the square hole.

=== Errata for Rev XA PCB ===

1) The trace between J4 and D1 is too small, and needs to be beefed up if the board is configured to draw more than 1/2A through J4.
2) There are two diodes labeled D4.
3) The holes for D1 are too small.
4) The silkscreen reference designator for C3 (above U10) is missing.

==XC PCB Current release==

The first prototype, with some parts still to be fitted. Tested on Jan 20, 2008.

[[Image:REN64 XC Proto Small.jpg]]

=== Connections ===

==== RS232 Input ====

Over short distances this board can be directly connected to an RS232 serial I/O port. The input cable can be a 9-pin straight-through cable. It should be kept as short as possible, on the order of 20 feet or less. A shunt should be installed between the two pins of JP1 when using an RS232 input source.

Pin Assignments:
Pin 5 - ground
Pin 3 - serial input signal.

==== RS485 Input/Output ====

These connectors may be directly connected to Ren16/Ren24(rev 3.0 and higher) and to other Ren64 board (all versions).

Pinout:
1,2 - ground
4 - RXD+/TXD- (inverting input/output of transceiver)
5 - RXD-/TXD+ (non-inverting input/output of transceiver)

Remove the shunt from JP1 for RS485 input.

==== Power Input ====

The board is designed to be powered with a 6.3VAC, 1A transformer, providing both power and a zero-crossing signal at the same time. One potential transformer for this application is the Xicon 41FD010 transformer (mouser p/n 41FD010). The center-tap of this transformer should be left open, perhaps covered with a wire nut to protect it from inadvertant short-circuits.

==== Other Connections ====

Pin 3 of the RJ45 serial input connector J4 is connected to pin 3 of the RJ45 serial output connector J3 with a signal trace.

Pins 7 and 8 of the RJ45 serial input connector J4 is connected to pins 7 and 8 of the serial output connector J3 with a trace capable of carrying 1A or so of current (current capacity to be verified).

=== Schematic===

[[Media:Renard64_xc.pdf]]

=== Layout Image ===

[[Image:renard64_xc5b.gif]]

=== BOM ===

<pre>

Note: This BOM does not include a transformer, power cords or connectors for the primary side of the transformer.

PCB
1 TBA Renard 64-Port PCB

Resistors

2 299-750-RC 750 Resistor, 1/8 W, Axial R1,R2
1 660-MF1/4DCT52R1200F 120 Resistor, 1/4 W, Axial R3
3 299-27K-RC 27K Resistor, 1/8 W, Axial (RS485 pull) R5,R8,R14
2 299-1K-RC 1K Resistor, 1/8 W, Axial (RS485 series) R4,R7
1 299-330-RC 330 Resistor, 1/8 W, Axial (for power LED) R19

Capacitors

1 140-XRL16V6800-RC 6800 uF, 16V Radial-Lead Elect. Cap C1
8 80-C322C104K5R 0.1 uF Radial-lead Ceramic Capacitor C3-C10
1 647-UVR1C470MDD 47 uF, 16V Radial-Lead Elect. Cap C2

Diodes
4 625-1N5817-E3 Schottky Diode (20V, 1A) D1-D4
1 78-1N5229B 4.3v 0.5w Zener D5
1 78-1N5239B 9.1v 0.5w Zener D6
1 604-WP7104GT T1 Green LED D7

Connectors

2 571-5520251-4 AMP Modular Jacks, Right Angle J3, J4
16 571-5556416-1 AMP Modular Jacks, Vertical PCB mount J5-16, J18-21
1 636-182-009-213R531 Norcomp DE9 Female Rt Angle D-sub Conn J22
8 575-199314 14 Pin Low Profile IC Socket U7-U14
1 538-22-03-2021 Molex PCB Header 2-pin JP1
1 151-8000 2-Pin Shunt JP1
2 534-4902 Male Sturdi-mount Terminal Tab1, Tab2
2 159-2215 Vinyl Insulated Couplers (Female) Tab1, Tab2

ICs

1 511-L4940V5 Regulator, LDO, 5V, 1.5A U1
2 511-ST485BN RS485 Connectors U4,U5
1 782-H11AA1 Optoisolator U6
8 579-PIC16F688-I/P PIC16F688, unprogrammed, DIP14, Industrial Temp U7-14

Oscillator
1 520-TCH1843-X Oscillator, 18.432 MHz, 5V, 8-DIP U3

Optional (if per/port LEDs are desired)
64 859-LTL-403G LEDs, Rectangular, Green
8 652-4608X-1LF-680 Resistor Network, 680 Ohm, 8-Pin, Bussed R10-13, R20-23
8 299-680-RC Resistor, 680 Ohm, 1/8W R15-18, R24-27

</pre>

=== BOM For Mouser ===
[http://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=cfd7f63914 link Mouser REN64XC BOM ]

<pre>

299-750-RC 2
660-MF1/4DCT52R1200F 1
299-27K-RC 3
299-1K-RC 2
299-330-RC 1
140-XRL16V6800-RC 1
80-C322C104K5R 8
647-UVR1C470MDD 1
625-1N5817-E3 4
78-1N5229B 1
78-1N5239B 1
604-WP7104SGC 1
571-5520251-4 2
571-5556416-1 16
636-182-009-213R531 1
575-199314 8
538-22-03-2021 1
151-8000 1
534-4902 2
159-2215 2
511-L4940V5 1
511-ST485BN 2
782-H11AA1 1
579-PIC16F688-I/P 8
520-TCH1843-X 1
604-WP113GDT 64
652-4608X-1LF-680 8
299-680-RC 8

</pre>

XC revision History

2008/01/21 PJS DE9 connector (J22) added to BOM
2008/01/25 PJS changed value of R1, R2 to 750 Ohm (was improperly calculated for 6.3VAC input).
2008/02/18 PJS changed value of C1

Renard 24LV

2009-11-11T21:00:58Z

Wjohn: /* Board Usage */

Revision 1.0 Board (2008 Co-Op #1)

=== Schematic===

[[Media:Renard64_sch_001.pdf]]
(please note, the schematic is identical to the Renard64)

=== Layout ===

[[Image:REN_24_LV.jpg]]

=== COOP PCB V1.0 ===

=== Co-Op Board 1.0 Assembly Instructions ===

Currently in-process!

=== Board Usage ===

'''To run a single high-current LED (for an application such as strobing)'''

[[Image:5ledflash.JPG]]

On the board, there are jumpers next to each set of RJ45 jacks. These allow the + voltage on pins 1,3,5,7. By default, it is only on pin 1.

'''To run the Co-Op SSRs'''

To run the Co-Op SSRs, a CAT5 cable would be connected to one of the output jacks and run to the SSR input jack.

'''To run a small string of LED lights'''

One possible application would be to drive arrays of individual LED strings. With the ULN2803, it is capable of driving up to 500ma per output. (Reccommend using an external +5V power source for this) I would suggest that you can probably run up to 20, 20ma LED's per output, but would reccommend running no more than 100 LED's at once with an external power supply.

[[Image:10led5v.jpg]]

In this case, it is using a 5v output from the Ren24 LV, and directly driving the LED's from output of the ULN2803.

On the board, there are jumpers next to each set of RJ45 jacks. These allow the + voltage on pins 1,3,5,7. By default, it is only on pin 1.

This info is based on the LED calculator from linear1.org
http://led.linear1.org/led.wiz

=== Testing the v 1.0 Co-Op Board===
There are 7 test points located on the board (TP1 to TP7)

TP1: +5v
TP2: GND
TP3: +12v
TP4: 12vac
TP5: 12vac
TP6: RS485A / RJ45 Pin 5
TP7: RS485B / RJ45 Pin 4

=== Design Notes for v 1.0 Co-Op Board===

=== Renard 24 Jumper Settings and Options ===

120/240v Jumpers: Allow for setting the transformers input voltage (labeled as JP1 and JP2.) 
[[Image:120v240v.jpg]] 

Zero Cross: If on, the board will insert the zero cross signal on the RJ45 pin 3 (labeled as JP3.) This is used to send a ZC signal to another board such as a Ren64 or Ren16. 
[[Image:Zc1.jpg]] 
 

12v Jumpers: Located below the transformer, these can be installed to use the board in 12vac only mode (for use with MR16 LED lamps, also labeled as JP5 and JP6.) 

=== Firmware ===
All Renard Firmware is located [[Renard_Firmware]]
This board REQUIRES the POSITIVE OUTPUT firmware option.
Comment out the following line:

[ #define OUTPUT_NEGATIVE_TRUE] as follows;

[;; #define OUTPUT_NEGATIVE_TRUE]

=== BOM ===

<pre>
1 Ren24 Lv v1.0 Renard 24-Port LV PCB

Board Specific Parts: PLEASE SEE BELOW FOR v3.3 BOARD

595-SN75176BP 2
511-L7805CV 1 '''LM7805 Voltage Regulator'''
821-DB102G 1 '''subsitute part 512-DF01M'''
532-7136DG 1
271-27K-RC 3 '''27k ohm 1/4 watt resistor'''
271-1K-RC 4 '''1k ohm 1/4 watt resistor'''
271-120-RC 1 '''120ohm 1/4 watt resistor'''
625-1N4001-E3 1
78-1N5239B 2
838-3FD-320 1 '''Larger Transformer Reccommended for LV/LED use part 838-3FD-420'''
782-H11AA1 1
520-TCF1843-X 1
140-HTRL25V1000-RC 1
140-HTRL25V10-RC 2
534-3517 2 '''5x20mm Fuse Holder'''
504-GMA-5 1 '''5x20mm 5a fuse'''

Parts from the Common Parts List: (Common parts are the parts that are not unique to the Ren24, and may also be used in other designs) PLEASE SEE BELOW FOR v3.3 BOARD

579-PIC16F688-I/P 3 '''Microchip PIC 16F1688'''
604-WP63ID 4 '''Red T1 3/4 LED, or any 10-30ma LED'''
604-WP1503GD 1 '''Green T1 3/4 LED or any 10-30ma LED'''
271-680-RC 5 '''680ohm 1/4 watt resistor'''
581-SA105E104MAR 5 '''.10 uF Ceramic Capacitor'''
571-9-146281-0 1 '''.100 three pin header(4 needed) Part specified is a 40 pin, cut off size that is needed.'''
571-3828118 8 '''.100 Shunt (4 needed) You may also "steal" these off of old computer parts.'''
571-1-390261-2 2 '''8 pin DIP socket'''
571-1-390261-3 3 '''14 pin DIP socket'''
571-1-390261-5 4 '''18 pin DIP socket'''
571-1-390261-1 1 '''Optional - 6 Pin Socket for H11AA1'''
571-5556416-1 8 '''RJ45 Sockets (8 needed) orientation doesn't matter. This one is top entry. Use 571-5520251-4 for side entry sockets.'''
571-7969495 1 '''five pin header to jumper both hot sides REPLACES 571-7969494'''
511-ULN2803A 4 '''ULN2803 Darlington Array'''

Optional Parts for The Board:

12VAC Operation
571-9-146281-0 1 '''.100 two pin header(2 needed)'''
571-3828115 4 '''.100 Shunt (2 needed) You may also "steal" these off of old computer parts.'''
838-3FD-320 0 '''Transformer is ELIMINATED from the board in this option'''

</pre>

The + pin of the DB102 is on the bottom right, both of the ~ should be on the left.

The jumpers on the board are for 120/240v operation. If you don't plan on using the boards on 120v these can be hard soldered with a jumper wire.

==== PC to Renard24 LV Cable ====

PC DB9 Pin 3 to RJ45-pin 4
PC DB9 Pin 5 to RJ45-pins 1,2,5 (pins 1 and 5 are required, pin 2 is optional).
[[Image:Ren24V3.jpg]]

If you are using a RS-232 to RS-485 converter, the pinout is Pin 5 to A+
and Pin 4 to B-. This is the same as for the Ren 16.

[[Image:Db9f.gif]]
'''Female DB9 connector as if you were looking into the end of it from the outside.'''

Renard Main Page

2009-11-11T21:00:17Z

Wjohn: /* Renard Board Designs */

==General Information and How-To's==

:Renard is the name of a computer-controlled, PIC-based dimmer scheme, and also refers to dimming controllers that people have built based on this scheme. The designs all use mid-range PIC micro-controllers, are generally modular in units of eight channels (dimmable circuits), and use medium-speed, daisy-chainable, one-direction serial communications for input. Renard controllers do not have stand-alone show sequencing capabilities, and rely on a separate computer (usually a PC) to send it real-time sequences of dimmer commands.

:Renard is strictly a do-it-yourself project, and there aren't any commercial (hardware or software) products available. There are, however, a number of PCB designs that people have created and made available for others to order on a coop basis. These include:

----
:*'''Renard8''' - a small 8-channel (single PIC) board for use with external SSRs.
:*'''Renard SS8''' - a 8-channel (single PIC) board with integrated SSRs (pcb design by Wayne J)
:*'''Renard16''' - a 16-channel (two-PIC) board with integrated SSRs (pcb design by xmus)
:*'''Renard SS16''' - a 16-channel (two-PIC) board with integrated SSRs (pcb design by Wayne J)
:*'''Renard24''' - a 24-channel (three-PIC) board with integrated SSRs (pcb design by fkostyun)
:*'''Renard24LV''' - a 24-channel (three-PIC) board for use with external SSRs (pcb design by fkostyun)
:*'''Renard SS24''' - a 24-channel (three-PIC) board with integrated SSRs (pcb design by Wayne J)
:*'''Renard64''' - a 64-channel (eight-PIC) board that uses external SSRs.
:*'''Ren-T''' - a transformer board for use with Renard to supply power, zero-crossing signal, and/or RS485 conversion
:*'''Ren-C''' - a board that converts a 595/Grinch (normally non-dimming) board to a dimming 64-channel board.

----

==General Renard Information==

:[[Renard]]: General Overview

:[[Renard Standard Setup]]: Simplified Connection Instructions

:[[Renard Firmware]]: Description and Download

:[[Renard Connection Instructions]]

:[[PIC Programming Hints]]: p16f688.inc error, PIC16F688 Programming Socket/Adapter.

==Renard Board Designs==

:[[Renard8]]: PCB Documentation (schematic, layout, BOM)

:[[The Renard SS8 Controller Board | Renard SS8]]: PCB Documentation (schematic, layout, BOM, Assembly Instructions)

:[[Renard 16 Controller | Renard16]]: PCB Documentation (schematic, layout, BOM, Assembly Instructions)

:[[The Renard SS16 Controller Board | Renard SS16]]: PCB Documentation (schematic, layout, BOM, Assembly Instructions)

:[[24 Channel Renard with SSR Assembly Instructions | Renard24]]: PCB Documentation (schematic, layout, BOM, Assembly Instructions)

:[[24 Channel Renard without | Renard24LV]]: PCB Documentation (schematic, layout, BOM, Assembly Instructions)

:[[The Renard SS24 Controller Board | Renard SS24]]: PCB Documentation (schematic, layout, BOM, Assembly Instructions)

:[[Renard64]]: PCB Documentation (schematic, layout, BOM)

:[[Renard-595 Converter]]: REN-C. Description of a Board for 192-level Dimming of the 64-Channel Olsen Controller or the GRINCH Controller

:[[Ren-T Assembly Instructions|Ren-T]]: A transformer board that can supply power and ZC for the Renard boards.

[[Category:Renard]]

Renard Main Page

2009-11-11T20:59:45Z

Wjohn: /* Renard Board Designs */

==General Information and How-To's==

:Renard is the name of a computer-controlled, PIC-based dimmer scheme, and also refers to dimming controllers that people have built based on this scheme. The designs all use mid-range PIC micro-controllers, are generally modular in units of eight channels (dimmable circuits), and use medium-speed, daisy-chainable, one-direction serial communications for input. Renard controllers do not have stand-alone show sequencing capabilities, and rely on a separate computer (usually a PC) to send it real-time sequences of dimmer commands.

:Renard is strictly a do-it-yourself project, and there aren't any commercial (hardware or software) products available. There are, however, a number of PCB designs that people have created and made available for others to order on a coop basis. These include:

----
:*'''Renard8''' - a small 8-channel (single PIC) board for use with external SSRs.
:*'''Renard SS8''' - a 8-channel (single PIC) board with integrated SSRs (pcb design by Wayne J)
:*'''Renard16''' - a 16-channel (two-PIC) board with integrated SSRs (pcb design by xmus)
:*'''Renard SS16''' - a 16-channel (two-PIC) board with integrated SSRs (pcb design by Wayne J)
:*'''Renard24''' - a 24-channel (three-PIC) board with integrated SSRs (pcb design by fkostyun)
:*'''Renard24LV''' - a 24-channel (three-PIC) board for use with external SSRs (pcb design by fkostyun)
:*'''Renard SS24''' - a 24-channel (three-PIC) board with integrated SSRs (pcb design by Wayne J)
:*'''Renard64''' - a 64-channel (eight-PIC) board that uses external SSRs.
:*'''Ren-T''' - a transformer board for use with Renard to supply power, zero-crossing signal, and/or RS485 conversion
:*'''Ren-C''' - a board that converts a 595/Grinch (normally non-dimming) board to a dimming 64-channel board.

----

==General Renard Information==

:[[Renard]]: General Overview

:[[Renard Standard Setup]]: Simplified Connection Instructions

:[[Renard Firmware]]: Description and Download

:[[Renard Connection Instructions]]

:[[PIC Programming Hints]]: p16f688.inc error, PIC16F688 Programming Socket/Adapter.

==Renard Board Designs==

:[[Renard8]]: PCB Documentation (schematic, layout, BOM)

:[[The Renard SS8 Controller Board | Renard SS8]]: PCB Documentation (schematic, layout, BOM, Assembly Instructions)

:[[Renard 16 Controller | Renard16]]: PCB Documentation (schematic, layout, BOM, Assembly Instructions)

:[[The Renard SS16 Controller Board | Renard SS16]]: PCB Documentation (schematic, layout, BOM, Assembly Instructions)

:[[24 Channel Renard with SSR Assembly Instructions | Renard24]]: PCB Documentation (schematic, layout, BOM, Assembly Instructions)

:[[24 Channel Renard without | Renard24LV]]: PCB Documentation (schematic, layout, BOM, Assembly Instructions)

:[[The Renard SS24 Controller Board | Renard SS24]]: PCB Documentation (schematic, layout, BOM, Assembly Instructions)

:[[Renard64]]: PCB Documentation (schematic, layout, BOM)

:[[Renard-595 Converter]]: Description of a Board for 192-level Dimming of the 64-Channel Olsen Controller or the GRINCH Controller

:[[Ren-T Assembly Instructions|Ren-T]]: A transformer board that can supply power and ZC for the Renard boards.

[[Category:Renard]]

Renard Main Page

2009-11-11T20:57:38Z

Wjohn: /* Renard Board Designs */

==General Information and How-To's==

:Renard is the name of a computer-controlled, PIC-based dimmer scheme, and also refers to dimming controllers that people have built based on this scheme. The designs all use mid-range PIC micro-controllers, are generally modular in units of eight channels (dimmable circuits), and use medium-speed, daisy-chainable, one-direction serial communications for input. Renard controllers do not have stand-alone show sequencing capabilities, and rely on a separate computer (usually a PC) to send it real-time sequences of dimmer commands.

:Renard is strictly a do-it-yourself project, and there aren't any commercial (hardware or software) products available. There are, however, a number of PCB designs that people have created and made available for others to order on a coop basis. These include:

----
:*'''Renard8''' - a small 8-channel (single PIC) board for use with external SSRs.
:*'''Renard SS8''' - a 8-channel (single PIC) board with integrated SSRs (pcb design by Wayne J)
:*'''Renard16''' - a 16-channel (two-PIC) board with integrated SSRs (pcb design by xmus)
:*'''Renard SS16''' - a 16-channel (two-PIC) board with integrated SSRs (pcb design by Wayne J)
:*'''Renard24''' - a 24-channel (three-PIC) board with integrated SSRs (pcb design by fkostyun)
:*'''Renard24LV''' - a 24-channel (three-PIC) board for use with external SSRs (pcb design by fkostyun)
:*'''Renard SS24''' - a 24-channel (three-PIC) board with integrated SSRs (pcb design by Wayne J)
:*'''Renard64''' - a 64-channel (eight-PIC) board that uses external SSRs.
:*'''Ren-T''' - a transformer board for use with Renard to supply power, zero-crossing signal, and/or RS485 conversion
:*'''Ren-C''' - a board that converts a 595/Grinch (normally non-dimming) board to a dimming 64-channel board.

----

==General Renard Information==

:[[Renard]]: General Overview

:[[Renard Standard Setup]]: Simplified Connection Instructions

:[[Renard Firmware]]: Description and Download

:[[Renard Connection Instructions]]

:[[PIC Programming Hints]]: p16f688.inc error, PIC16F688 Programming Socket/Adapter.

==Renard Board Designs==

:[[Renard8]]: PCB Documentation (schematic, layout, BOM)

:[[The Renard SS8 Controller Board | Renard SS8]]: PCB Documentation (schematic, layout, BOM, Assembly Instructions)

:[[Renard 16 Controller | Renard16]]: PCB Documentation (schematic, layout, BOM, Assembly Instructions)

:[[The Renard SS16 Controller Board | Renard SS16]]: PCB Documentation (schematic, layout, BOM, Assembly Instructions)

:[[24 Channel Renard with SSR Assembly Instructions | Renard24]]: PCB Documentation (schematic, layout, BOM, Assembly Instructions)

:[[24 Channel Renard without | Renard24LV]]: PCB Documentation (schematic, layout, BOM, Assembly Instructions)

:[[The Renard SS24 Controller Board | Renard SS24]]: PCB Documentation (schematic, layout, BOM, Assembly Instructions)

:[[Renard64]]: PCB Documentation (schematic, layout, BOM)

:[[Renard Converter - aka the REN-C]]: Description of a Board for 192-level Dimming of the 64-Channel Olsen Controller or the GRINCH Controller

:[[Ren-T Assembly Instructions|Ren-T]]: A transformer board that can supply power and ZC for the Renard boards.

[[Category:Renard]]

REN-C PCB ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS

2009-11-04T20:59:33Z

Wjohn: /* ZC and RENT requirements */

==Board Assembly==
:Assembling the Ren-C should be fairly easy for most hobbyists.

:The following sequence of steps is by no means the only way to do this. It is simply a suggested order of events to achieve the desired goal.

{| border="0" cellpadding="10" style="text-align: left;"
!width="300"|
!width="200"|
|-
|
*Start by checking the PCB over for any production faults. Ensure that none of the tracks are shorted or open and that all holes are clear.
|| [[Image:Wiki - Ren-C Assembly Step 01.jpg | 200px]]
|-
|
*Install two 22pF capacitors C1, C2 (PN# 581-SA102A220JAR). These capacitors have no polarity to worry about.
|| [[Image:Wiki - Ren-C Assembly Step 02.jpg | 200px]]
|-
|
*Install two 0.1uF capacitors C3, C5 (PN# 581-SA105E104MAR). These capacitors have no polarity to worry about.
|| [[Image:Wiki - Ren-C Assembly Step 03.jpg | 200px]]
|-
|
*Install three 27K ohm resistors R2, R6, R7 (PN# 271-27K-RC). Make sure that the resistors have a value of 27K ohm (red/violet/black/red/gold stripes). These resistors have no polarity to worry about.
|| [[Image:Wiki - Ren-C Assembly Step 04.jpg | 200px]]
|-
|
*Install two 10K ohm resistors R8, R9 (PN# 271-10K-RC). Make sure that the resistors have a value of 10K ohm (brown/black/black/red/gold stripes). These resistors have no polarity to worry about.
|| [[Image:Wiki - Ren-C Assembly Step 05.jpg | 200px]]
|-
|
*Install two 1K ohm resistors R4, R5 (PN# 271-1K-RC). Make sure that the resistors have a value of 1K ohm (brown/black/black/brown/gold stripes). These resistors have no polarity to worry about.
|| [[Image:Wiki - Ren-C Assembly Step 06.jpg | 200px]]
|-
|
*Install 120 ohm resistor R3 (PN# 271-120-RC). Make sure that the resistor has a value of 120 ohm (brown/red/black/black/gold stripes). This resistor has no polarity to worry about.
|| [[Image:Wiki - Ren-C Assembly Step 07.jpg | 200px]]
|-
|
*Install zener diode D1 (PN# 78-1N5229B). The diode must go in correctly. The diode should have a black stripe on the orange/red body. Make sure that this stripe lines up with the stripe on the silk screen mask on the PCB.
|| [[Image:Wiki - Ren-C Assembly Step 08.jpg | 200px]]
|-
|
*Install zener diode D2 (PN# 78-1N5239B). The diode must go in correctly. The diode should have a black stripe on the orange/red body. Make sure that this stripe lines up with the stripe on the silk screen mask on the PCB.
|| [[Image:Wiki - Ren-C Assembly Step 09.jpg | 200px]]
|-
|
*Install transistor Q1 (PN# 512-2N3904TA). This device must also be correctly mounted. Make sure that the flat side of Q1 is aligned with the silk screen.
|| [[Image:Wiki - Ren-C Assembly Step 10.jpg | 200px]]
|-
|
*Install five LEDs D3, D4, D5, D6, D7 (PN# 604-WP7104GT). The LEDs are polarized and must be mounted correctly. The short lead is the cathode and must be placed in the square solder pad. Another way to check is if your LED has a flat side to it then that side must be aligned with the silk screen.

 
<center>'''NOTE:''' </center>
<blockquote>In the picture 2 red LEDs were substitued for the green ones called for in the BOM. This was done just as a personal preference.</blockquote>
|| [[Image:Wiki - Ren-C Assembly Step 11.jpg | 200px]]
|-
|
*Install resistor network RP (PN# 652-4610X-2LF-470). The resistor network should have a dot on it to indicate pin 1. Insert pin 1 of the resistor network into the square solder pad.
|| [[Image:Wiki - Ren-C Assembly Step 12.jpg | 200px]]
|-
|
*Install crystal Y1 (PN# 815-AB-20-B2). The crystal has no polarity to worry about. It is helpful to carefully bend the leads for the desired component position prior to soldering them in-place.
|| [[Image:Wiki - Ren-C Assembly Step 13.jpg | 200px]]
|-
|
*Install 10uF capacitor C4 (PN# 140-XRL10V10-RC). This capacitor is polarized and must be mounted correctly. The capacitor should have a black stripe on the body to indicate which lead is negative. The positive lead of the capacitor will be the longer lead. Make sure that the positive lead is placed in the square solder pad.
|| [[Image:Wiki - Ren-C Assembly Step 14.jpg | 200px]]
|-
|colspan="2"|
 
<blockquote> The next three items are optional but if you are going to use them then now would be a good time to install them. </blockquote>
 
<center>'''INSTALLATION NOTE:''' </center>
<blockquote>Pin 1 of the sockets must be aligned with the square solder pad. Another way to verify that you installed them correctly is to make sure that the notch on the socket is aligned with the notch on the PCB silk screen outline.
</blockquote>
|-
|
*Install the 18 pin IC socket (PN# 571-1-390261-5).
|| [[Image:Wiki - Ren-C Assembly Step 15.jpg | 200px]]
|-
|
*Install the 14 pin IC socket (PN# 571-1-390261-3).
|| [[Image:Wiki - Ren-C Assembly Step 16.jpg | 200px]]
|-
|
*Install the 8 pin IC socket (PN# 571-1-390261-2).
|| [[Image:Wiki - Ren-C Assembly Step 17.jpg | 200px]]
|-
|
*Install 6-pin vertical header JP6 (PN# 571-1032396).
|| [[Image:Wiki - Ren-C Assembly Step 18.jpg | 200px]]
|-
|
*Install 4-pin vertical header JP3 (PN# 571-1032394).
|| [[Image:Wiki - Ren-C Assembly Step 19.jpg | 200px]]
|-
|
*Install four RJ45 jack sockets JP1, JP2, JP4, JP5 (PN# 571-5520251-4). Due to minor variations in manufacturing, some RJ45 sockets are a tighter fit than others. Care should be taken to ensure that the pins are aligned first before applying too much pressure to seat the locking lugs through the board.
|| [[Image:Wiki - Ren-C Assembly Step 20.jpg | 200px]]
|-
|
 
<center>'''INSTALLATION NOTE:''' </center>
<blockquote>Ensure that pin 1 of the each IC is aligned with pin 1 of the respective socket. Can be verified by noting that the notch on the IC is aligned with the notch on the socket. </blockquote>
|-
|
*Install IC U1 (PN# 595-SN65LBC179P) into the 8 pin IC socket.
*Install IC U2 (PN# 511-M74HC02) into the 14 pin IC socket.
*Install IC U3 (PN# 579-PIC16F627A-I/P) into the 18 pin IC socket.
|| [[Image:Wiki - Ren-C Assembly Step 21.jpg | 200px]]
|}

<center><blockquote>'''CONGATULATIONS!''' You have just finished building your Ren-C board.</blockquote></center>

==ZC and RENT requirements==
When the REN64XB and RENC were first released, there was an extra board that was made available, the RENT. The function of the RENT was to provide power and a source of ZC to the controllers.

The RENC did not require separate power as it draws 5 V DC from the GRINCH board. What it does need is a source of ZC.

What is ZC? Zero Cross reference. When dimming, the RENC needs to know the start of the AC signal waveform, i.e. when it crosses over Zero V AC. A small sample of AC voltage is required to obtain the ZC.

There are a couple of options.

Option 1 - User a small AC stepdown transformer (12.6V CT) and build a simple circuit to rectify the Low V AC to DC.

[[Image:Simple RenT Design.jpg | 400px]]

Option 2 - Use a small AC stepdown transformer (12.6V CT) and build a OPTOISOLATOR circuit to provide a source of ZC.

[[Image:Another RENT (H11A1).jpg | 400px]]

=='''Parts Listing (BOM)'''==
{| border="1" cellpadding="10" style="text-align: center;"
!width="200"|
!width="50"|
!width="100"|
!width="350"|
|-
!| PART NUMBER (Mouser PN# unless noted) || QTY || REF || NOMENCLATURE
|-
|815-AB-20-B2|| 1||Y1
| align="left" | 20.000 MHz Crystal, HC49U case
|-
|581-SA102A220JAR|| 2||C1,C2
| align="left" |22 pf, 200V NPO Axial Ceramic Capacitors
|-
|581-SA105E104MAR|| 2||C3,C5
| align="left" |.1 uF, 50V, Z5U Axial Ceramic Capacitors
|-
|140-XRL10V10-RC|| 1||C4
| align="left" |10 uF, 10V, Radial Aluminum Electrolytic Cap
|-
|604-WP7104GT|| 5||D3-D7
| align="left" |Green Transparent LED, 3mm
|-
|604-WP7104IT|| . ||D3-D7
| align="left" |Red LED, 3mm (alternative to Green LED)
|-
|595-SN65LBC179P|| 1||U1
| align="left" |RS485 Receiver/Transmitter (DIP8)
|-
|511-M74HC02|| 1||U2
| align="left" |Quad 2-Input NOR Gate (DIP14)
|-
|579-PIC16F627A-I/P|| 1||U3
| align="left" | PICmicro - PIC16Fxxx Flash MCUs 1.75KB 224 RAM 16I/O
|-
|271-1K-RC|| 2||R4,R5
| align="left" |Metal Film Resistor, 1K, 1/4W
|-
|271-10K-RC|| 2||R8,R9
| align="left" |Metal Film Resistor, 10K, 1/4W
|-
|271-27K-RC|| 3||R2,R6,R7
| align="left" |Metal Film Resistor, 27K, 1/4W
|-
|271-120-RC|| 1||R3
| align="left" |Metal Film Resistor, 120, 1/4W
|-
|652-4610X-2LF-470|| 1||RP
| align="left" |Resistor Network, 470, 10-Pin SIP, Isolated Resistors
|-
|78-1N5229B|| 1||D1
| align="left" |Diode, Zener, 4.3V, 0.5W
|-
|78-1N5239B|| 1||D2
| align="left" |Diode, Zener, 9.1V, 0.5W
|-
|571-5520251-4|| 4||JP1,JP2,JP4,JP5
| align="left" |Modular Jack, Right-Angle, 8-8
|-
|571-1032394|| 1||JP3
| align="left" |Vertical Header, 4 Pin
|-
|571-1032396|| 1||JP6
| align="left" |Vertical Header, 6 Pin
|-
|571-41032390||.||.
| align="left" |Vertical Header, 40 Pin (can be broken into smaller headers for above)
|-
|512-2N3904TA|| 1||Q1
| align="left" |Transistor, NPN, small signal
|-
|571-1-390261-5|| 1||.
| align="left" |18 Pin DIP socket (optional)
|-
|571-1-390261-3|| 1||.
| align="left" |14 Pin DIP socket (optional)
|-
|571-1-390261-2|| 1||.
| align="left" |08 Pin DIP Socket (optional)
|}

Below is the same parts list as above but it is formatted for direct importing into the Mouser BOM feature.
Just copy and paste the list as is. The last 3 parts listed correspond to the optional items listed above.

815-AB-20-B2 1
581-SA102A220JAR 2
581-SA105E104MAR 2
140-XRL10V10-RC 1
604-WP7104GT 5
595-SN65LBC179P 1
511-M74HC02 1
579-PIC16F627A-I/P 1
271-1K-RC 2
271-10K-RC 2
271-27K-RC 3
271-120-RC 1
652-4610X-2LF-470 1
78-1N5229B 1
78-1N5239B 1
571-5520251-4 4
512-2N3904TA 1
571-1032394 1
571-1032396 1
571-1-390261-5 1
571-1-390261-3 1
571-1-390261-2 1

==Related Link==
:[[Renard-595 Converter | Ren-C]]

:[[Renard Main Page]]

:[[Renard Firmware]]

:[[Part Substitutions]]

:[[Vixen|VIXEN]]

:[[Glossary | Glossary of DIYC Terms]]

:[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electronic_symbol Electronic Symbols]

[[Category:Ren-C]]

REN-C PCB ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS

2009-11-04T20:58:20Z

Wjohn: /* ZC and RENT requirements */

==Board Assembly==
:Assembling the Ren-C should be fairly easy for most hobbyists.

:The following sequence of steps is by no means the only way to do this. It is simply a suggested order of events to achieve the desired goal.

{| border="0" cellpadding="10" style="text-align: left;"
!width="300"|
!width="200"|
|-
|
*Start by checking the PCB over for any production faults. Ensure that none of the tracks are shorted or open and that all holes are clear.
|| [[Image:Wiki - Ren-C Assembly Step 01.jpg | 200px]]
|-
|
*Install two 22pF capacitors C1, C2 (PN# 581-SA102A220JAR). These capacitors have no polarity to worry about.
|| [[Image:Wiki - Ren-C Assembly Step 02.jpg | 200px]]
|-
|
*Install two 0.1uF capacitors C3, C5 (PN# 581-SA105E104MAR). These capacitors have no polarity to worry about.
|| [[Image:Wiki - Ren-C Assembly Step 03.jpg | 200px]]
|-
|
*Install three 27K ohm resistors R2, R6, R7 (PN# 271-27K-RC). Make sure that the resistors have a value of 27K ohm (red/violet/black/red/gold stripes). These resistors have no polarity to worry about.
|| [[Image:Wiki - Ren-C Assembly Step 04.jpg | 200px]]
|-
|
*Install two 10K ohm resistors R8, R9 (PN# 271-10K-RC). Make sure that the resistors have a value of 10K ohm (brown/black/black/red/gold stripes). These resistors have no polarity to worry about.
|| [[Image:Wiki - Ren-C Assembly Step 05.jpg | 200px]]
|-
|
*Install two 1K ohm resistors R4, R5 (PN# 271-1K-RC). Make sure that the resistors have a value of 1K ohm (brown/black/black/brown/gold stripes). These resistors have no polarity to worry about.
|| [[Image:Wiki - Ren-C Assembly Step 06.jpg | 200px]]
|-
|
*Install 120 ohm resistor R3 (PN# 271-120-RC). Make sure that the resistor has a value of 120 ohm (brown/red/black/black/gold stripes). This resistor has no polarity to worry about.
|| [[Image:Wiki - Ren-C Assembly Step 07.jpg | 200px]]
|-
|
*Install zener diode D1 (PN# 78-1N5229B). The diode must go in correctly. The diode should have a black stripe on the orange/red body. Make sure that this stripe lines up with the stripe on the silk screen mask on the PCB.
|| [[Image:Wiki - Ren-C Assembly Step 08.jpg | 200px]]
|-
|
*Install zener diode D2 (PN# 78-1N5239B). The diode must go in correctly. The diode should have a black stripe on the orange/red body. Make sure that this stripe lines up with the stripe on the silk screen mask on the PCB.
|| [[Image:Wiki - Ren-C Assembly Step 09.jpg | 200px]]
|-
|
*Install transistor Q1 (PN# 512-2N3904TA). This device must also be correctly mounted. Make sure that the flat side of Q1 is aligned with the silk screen.
|| [[Image:Wiki - Ren-C Assembly Step 10.jpg | 200px]]
|-
|
*Install five LEDs D3, D4, D5, D6, D7 (PN# 604-WP7104GT). The LEDs are polarized and must be mounted correctly. The short lead is the cathode and must be placed in the square solder pad. Another way to check is if your LED has a flat side to it then that side must be aligned with the silk screen.

 
<center>'''NOTE:''' </center>
<blockquote>In the picture 2 red LEDs were substitued for the green ones called for in the BOM. This was done just as a personal preference.</blockquote>
|| [[Image:Wiki - Ren-C Assembly Step 11.jpg | 200px]]
|-
|
*Install resistor network RP (PN# 652-4610X-2LF-470). The resistor network should have a dot on it to indicate pin 1. Insert pin 1 of the resistor network into the square solder pad.
|| [[Image:Wiki - Ren-C Assembly Step 12.jpg | 200px]]
|-
|
*Install crystal Y1 (PN# 815-AB-20-B2). The crystal has no polarity to worry about. It is helpful to carefully bend the leads for the desired component position prior to soldering them in-place.
|| [[Image:Wiki - Ren-C Assembly Step 13.jpg | 200px]]
|-
|
*Install 10uF capacitor C4 (PN# 140-XRL10V10-RC). This capacitor is polarized and must be mounted correctly. The capacitor should have a black stripe on the body to indicate which lead is negative. The positive lead of the capacitor will be the longer lead. Make sure that the positive lead is placed in the square solder pad.
|| [[Image:Wiki - Ren-C Assembly Step 14.jpg | 200px]]
|-
|colspan="2"|
 
<blockquote> The next three items are optional but if you are going to use them then now would be a good time to install them. </blockquote>
 
<center>'''INSTALLATION NOTE:''' </center>
<blockquote>Pin 1 of the sockets must be aligned with the square solder pad. Another way to verify that you installed them correctly is to make sure that the notch on the socket is aligned with the notch on the PCB silk screen outline.
</blockquote>
|-
|
*Install the 18 pin IC socket (PN# 571-1-390261-5).
|| [[Image:Wiki - Ren-C Assembly Step 15.jpg | 200px]]
|-
|
*Install the 14 pin IC socket (PN# 571-1-390261-3).
|| [[Image:Wiki - Ren-C Assembly Step 16.jpg | 200px]]
|-
|
*Install the 8 pin IC socket (PN# 571-1-390261-2).
|| [[Image:Wiki - Ren-C Assembly Step 17.jpg | 200px]]
|-
|
*Install 6-pin vertical header JP6 (PN# 571-1032396).
|| [[Image:Wiki - Ren-C Assembly Step 18.jpg | 200px]]
|-
|
*Install 4-pin vertical header JP3 (PN# 571-1032394).
|| [[Image:Wiki - Ren-C Assembly Step 19.jpg | 200px]]
|-
|
*Install four RJ45 jack sockets JP1, JP2, JP4, JP5 (PN# 571-5520251-4). Due to minor variations in manufacturing, some RJ45 sockets are a tighter fit than others. Care should be taken to ensure that the pins are aligned first before applying too much pressure to seat the locking lugs through the board.
|| [[Image:Wiki - Ren-C Assembly Step 20.jpg | 200px]]
|-
|
 
<center>'''INSTALLATION NOTE:''' </center>
<blockquote>Ensure that pin 1 of the each IC is aligned with pin 1 of the respective socket. Can be verified by noting that the notch on the IC is aligned with the notch on the socket. </blockquote>
|-
|
*Install IC U1 (PN# 595-SN65LBC179P) into the 8 pin IC socket.
*Install IC U2 (PN# 511-M74HC02) into the 14 pin IC socket.
*Install IC U3 (PN# 579-PIC16F627A-I/P) into the 18 pin IC socket.
|| [[Image:Wiki - Ren-C Assembly Step 21.jpg | 200px]]
|}

<center><blockquote>'''CONGATULATIONS!''' You have just finished building your Ren-C board.</blockquote></center>

==ZC and RENT requirements==
When the REN64XB and RENC were first released, there was an extra board that was made available, the RENT. The function of the RENT was to provide power and a source of ZC to the controllers.

The RENC did not require separate power as it draws 5 V DC from the GRINCH board. What it does need is a source of ZC.

What is ZC? Zero Cross reference. When dimming, the RENC needs to know the start of the AC signal waveform, i.e. when it crosses over Zero V AC. A small sample of AC voltage is required to obtain the ZC.

There are a couple of options.

Option 1 - User a small AC stepdown transformer (12.6V CT) and build a simple circuit to rectify the Low V AC to DC.

|| [[Image:Simple RenT Design.jpg | 400px]]

Option 2 - Use a small AC stepdown transformer (12.6V CT) and build a OPTOISOLATOR circuit to provide a source of ZC.

|| [[Image:Another RENT (H11A1).jpg | 400px]]

=='''Parts Listing (BOM)'''==
{| border="1" cellpadding="10" style="text-align: center;"
!width="200"|
!width="50"|
!width="100"|
!width="350"|
|-
!| PART NUMBER (Mouser PN# unless noted) || QTY || REF || NOMENCLATURE
|-
|815-AB-20-B2|| 1||Y1
| align="left" | 20.000 MHz Crystal, HC49U case
|-
|581-SA102A220JAR|| 2||C1,C2
| align="left" |22 pf, 200V NPO Axial Ceramic Capacitors
|-
|581-SA105E104MAR|| 2||C3,C5
| align="left" |.1 uF, 50V, Z5U Axial Ceramic Capacitors
|-
|140-XRL10V10-RC|| 1||C4
| align="left" |10 uF, 10V, Radial Aluminum Electrolytic Cap
|-
|604-WP7104GT|| 5||D3-D7
| align="left" |Green Transparent LED, 3mm
|-
|604-WP7104IT|| . ||D3-D7
| align="left" |Red LED, 3mm (alternative to Green LED)
|-
|595-SN65LBC179P|| 1||U1
| align="left" |RS485 Receiver/Transmitter (DIP8)
|-
|511-M74HC02|| 1||U2
| align="left" |Quad 2-Input NOR Gate (DIP14)
|-
|579-PIC16F627A-I/P|| 1||U3
| align="left" | PICmicro - PIC16Fxxx Flash MCUs 1.75KB 224 RAM 16I/O
|-
|271-1K-RC|| 2||R4,R5
| align="left" |Metal Film Resistor, 1K, 1/4W
|-
|271-10K-RC|| 2||R8,R9
| align="left" |Metal Film Resistor, 10K, 1/4W
|-
|271-27K-RC|| 3||R2,R6,R7
| align="left" |Metal Film Resistor, 27K, 1/4W
|-
|271-120-RC|| 1||R3
| align="left" |Metal Film Resistor, 120, 1/4W
|-
|652-4610X-2LF-470|| 1||RP
| align="left" |Resistor Network, 470, 10-Pin SIP, Isolated Resistors
|-
|78-1N5229B|| 1||D1
| align="left" |Diode, Zener, 4.3V, 0.5W
|-
|78-1N5239B|| 1||D2
| align="left" |Diode, Zener, 9.1V, 0.5W
|-
|571-5520251-4|| 4||JP1,JP2,JP4,JP5
| align="left" |Modular Jack, Right-Angle, 8-8
|-
|571-1032394|| 1||JP3
| align="left" |Vertical Header, 4 Pin
|-
|571-1032396|| 1||JP6
| align="left" |Vertical Header, 6 Pin
|-
|571-41032390||.||.
| align="left" |Vertical Header, 40 Pin (can be broken into smaller headers for above)
|-
|512-2N3904TA|| 1||Q1
| align="left" |Transistor, NPN, small signal
|-
|571-1-390261-5|| 1||.
| align="left" |18 Pin DIP socket (optional)
|-
|571-1-390261-3|| 1||.
| align="left" |14 Pin DIP socket (optional)
|-
|571-1-390261-2|| 1||.
| align="left" |08 Pin DIP Socket (optional)
|}

Below is the same parts list as above but it is formatted for direct importing into the Mouser BOM feature.
Just copy and paste the list as is. The last 3 parts listed correspond to the optional items listed above.

815-AB-20-B2 1
581-SA102A220JAR 2
581-SA105E104MAR 2
140-XRL10V10-RC 1
604-WP7104GT 5
595-SN65LBC179P 1
511-M74HC02 1
579-PIC16F627A-I/P 1
271-1K-RC 2
271-10K-RC 2
271-27K-RC 3
271-120-RC 1
652-4610X-2LF-470 1
78-1N5229B 1
78-1N5239B 1
571-5520251-4 4
512-2N3904TA 1
571-1032394 1
571-1032396 1
571-1-390261-5 1
571-1-390261-3 1
571-1-390261-2 1

==Related Link==
:[[Renard-595 Converter | Ren-C]]

:[[Renard Main Page]]

:[[Renard Firmware]]

:[[Part Substitutions]]

:[[Vixen|VIXEN]]

:[[Glossary | Glossary of DIYC Terms]]

:[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electronic_symbol Electronic Symbols]

[[Category:Ren-C]]

REN-C PCB ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS

2009-11-04T20:56:52Z

Wjohn: /* ZC and RENT requirements */

==Board Assembly==
:Assembling the Ren-C should be fairly easy for most hobbyists.

:The following sequence of steps is by no means the only way to do this. It is simply a suggested order of events to achieve the desired goal.

{| border="0" cellpadding="10" style="text-align: left;"
!width="300"|
!width="200"|
|-
|
*Start by checking the PCB over for any production faults. Ensure that none of the tracks are shorted or open and that all holes are clear.
|| [[Image:Wiki - Ren-C Assembly Step 01.jpg | 200px]]
|-
|
*Install two 22pF capacitors C1, C2 (PN# 581-SA102A220JAR). These capacitors have no polarity to worry about.
|| [[Image:Wiki - Ren-C Assembly Step 02.jpg | 200px]]
|-
|
*Install two 0.1uF capacitors C3, C5 (PN# 581-SA105E104MAR). These capacitors have no polarity to worry about.
|| [[Image:Wiki - Ren-C Assembly Step 03.jpg | 200px]]
|-
|
*Install three 27K ohm resistors R2, R6, R7 (PN# 271-27K-RC). Make sure that the resistors have a value of 27K ohm (red/violet/black/red/gold stripes). These resistors have no polarity to worry about.
|| [[Image:Wiki - Ren-C Assembly Step 04.jpg | 200px]]
|-
|
*Install two 10K ohm resistors R8, R9 (PN# 271-10K-RC). Make sure that the resistors have a value of 10K ohm (brown/black/black/red/gold stripes). These resistors have no polarity to worry about.
|| [[Image:Wiki - Ren-C Assembly Step 05.jpg | 200px]]
|-
|
*Install two 1K ohm resistors R4, R5 (PN# 271-1K-RC). Make sure that the resistors have a value of 1K ohm (brown/black/black/brown/gold stripes). These resistors have no polarity to worry about.
|| [[Image:Wiki - Ren-C Assembly Step 06.jpg | 200px]]
|-
|
*Install 120 ohm resistor R3 (PN# 271-120-RC). Make sure that the resistor has a value of 120 ohm (brown/red/black/black/gold stripes). This resistor has no polarity to worry about.
|| [[Image:Wiki - Ren-C Assembly Step 07.jpg | 200px]]
|-
|
*Install zener diode D1 (PN# 78-1N5229B). The diode must go in correctly. The diode should have a black stripe on the orange/red body. Make sure that this stripe lines up with the stripe on the silk screen mask on the PCB.
|| [[Image:Wiki - Ren-C Assembly Step 08.jpg | 200px]]
|-
|
*Install zener diode D2 (PN# 78-1N5239B). The diode must go in correctly. The diode should have a black stripe on the orange/red body. Make sure that this stripe lines up with the stripe on the silk screen mask on the PCB.
|| [[Image:Wiki - Ren-C Assembly Step 09.jpg | 200px]]
|-
|
*Install transistor Q1 (PN# 512-2N3904TA). This device must also be correctly mounted. Make sure that the flat side of Q1 is aligned with the silk screen.
|| [[Image:Wiki - Ren-C Assembly Step 10.jpg | 200px]]
|-
|
*Install five LEDs D3, D4, D5, D6, D7 (PN# 604-WP7104GT). The LEDs are polarized and must be mounted correctly. The short lead is the cathode and must be placed in the square solder pad. Another way to check is if your LED has a flat side to it then that side must be aligned with the silk screen.

 
<center>'''NOTE:''' </center>
<blockquote>In the picture 2 red LEDs were substitued for the green ones called for in the BOM. This was done just as a personal preference.</blockquote>
|| [[Image:Wiki - Ren-C Assembly Step 11.jpg | 200px]]
|-
|
*Install resistor network RP (PN# 652-4610X-2LF-470). The resistor network should have a dot on it to indicate pin 1. Insert pin 1 of the resistor network into the square solder pad.
|| [[Image:Wiki - Ren-C Assembly Step 12.jpg | 200px]]
|-
|
*Install crystal Y1 (PN# 815-AB-20-B2). The crystal has no polarity to worry about. It is helpful to carefully bend the leads for the desired component position prior to soldering them in-place.
|| [[Image:Wiki - Ren-C Assembly Step 13.jpg | 200px]]
|-
|
*Install 10uF capacitor C4 (PN# 140-XRL10V10-RC). This capacitor is polarized and must be mounted correctly. The capacitor should have a black stripe on the body to indicate which lead is negative. The positive lead of the capacitor will be the longer lead. Make sure that the positive lead is placed in the square solder pad.
|| [[Image:Wiki - Ren-C Assembly Step 14.jpg | 200px]]
|-
|colspan="2"|
 
<blockquote> The next three items are optional but if you are going to use them then now would be a good time to install them. </blockquote>
 
<center>'''INSTALLATION NOTE:''' </center>
<blockquote>Pin 1 of the sockets must be aligned with the square solder pad. Another way to verify that you installed them correctly is to make sure that the notch on the socket is aligned with the notch on the PCB silk screen outline.
</blockquote>
|-
|
*Install the 18 pin IC socket (PN# 571-1-390261-5).
|| [[Image:Wiki - Ren-C Assembly Step 15.jpg | 200px]]
|-
|
*Install the 14 pin IC socket (PN# 571-1-390261-3).
|| [[Image:Wiki - Ren-C Assembly Step 16.jpg | 200px]]
|-
|
*Install the 8 pin IC socket (PN# 571-1-390261-2).
|| [[Image:Wiki - Ren-C Assembly Step 17.jpg | 200px]]
|-
|
*Install 6-pin vertical header JP6 (PN# 571-1032396).
|| [[Image:Wiki - Ren-C Assembly Step 18.jpg | 200px]]
|-
|
*Install 4-pin vertical header JP3 (PN# 571-1032394).
|| [[Image:Wiki - Ren-C Assembly Step 19.jpg | 200px]]
|-
|
*Install four RJ45 jack sockets JP1, JP2, JP4, JP5 (PN# 571-5520251-4). Due to minor variations in manufacturing, some RJ45 sockets are a tighter fit than others. Care should be taken to ensure that the pins are aligned first before applying too much pressure to seat the locking lugs through the board.
|| [[Image:Wiki - Ren-C Assembly Step 20.jpg | 200px]]
|-
|
 
<center>'''INSTALLATION NOTE:''' </center>
<blockquote>Ensure that pin 1 of the each IC is aligned with pin 1 of the respective socket. Can be verified by noting that the notch on the IC is aligned with the notch on the socket. </blockquote>
|-
|
*Install IC U1 (PN# 595-SN65LBC179P) into the 8 pin IC socket.
*Install IC U2 (PN# 511-M74HC02) into the 14 pin IC socket.
*Install IC U3 (PN# 579-PIC16F627A-I/P) into the 18 pin IC socket.
|| [[Image:Wiki - Ren-C Assembly Step 21.jpg | 200px]]
|}

<center><blockquote>'''CONGATULATIONS!''' You have just finished building your Ren-C board.</blockquote></center>

==ZC and RENT requirements==
When the REN64XB and RENC were first released, there was an extra board that was made available, the RENT. The function of the RENT was to provide power and a source of ZC to the controllers.

The RENC did not require separate power as it draws 5 V DC from the GRINCH board. What it does need is a source of ZC.

What is ZC? Zero Cross reference. When dimming, the RENC needs to know the start of the AC signal waveform, i.e. when it crosses over Zero V AC. A small sample of AC voltage is required to obtain the ZC.

There are a couple of options.

Option 1 - User a small AC stepdown transformer (12.6V CT) and build a simple circuit to rectify the Low V AC to DC.

|| [[Image:Simple RenT Design.jpg | 200px]]

Option 2 - Use a small AC stepdown transformer (12.6V CT) and build a OPTOISOLATOR circuit to provide a source of ZC.

|| [[Image:Another RENT (H11A1).jpg | 200px]]

=='''Parts Listing (BOM)'''==
{| border="1" cellpadding="10" style="text-align: center;"
!width="200"|
!width="50"|
!width="100"|
!width="350"|
|-
!| PART NUMBER (Mouser PN# unless noted) || QTY || REF || NOMENCLATURE
|-
|815-AB-20-B2|| 1||Y1
| align="left" | 20.000 MHz Crystal, HC49U case
|-
|581-SA102A220JAR|| 2||C1,C2
| align="left" |22 pf, 200V NPO Axial Ceramic Capacitors
|-
|581-SA105E104MAR|| 2||C3,C5
| align="left" |.1 uF, 50V, Z5U Axial Ceramic Capacitors
|-
|140-XRL10V10-RC|| 1||C4
| align="left" |10 uF, 10V, Radial Aluminum Electrolytic Cap
|-
|604-WP7104GT|| 5||D3-D7
| align="left" |Green Transparent LED, 3mm
|-
|604-WP7104IT|| . ||D3-D7
| align="left" |Red LED, 3mm (alternative to Green LED)
|-
|595-SN65LBC179P|| 1||U1
| align="left" |RS485 Receiver/Transmitter (DIP8)
|-
|511-M74HC02|| 1||U2
| align="left" |Quad 2-Input NOR Gate (DIP14)
|-
|579-PIC16F627A-I/P|| 1||U3
| align="left" | PICmicro - PIC16Fxxx Flash MCUs 1.75KB 224 RAM 16I/O
|-
|271-1K-RC|| 2||R4,R5
| align="left" |Metal Film Resistor, 1K, 1/4W
|-
|271-10K-RC|| 2||R8,R9
| align="left" |Metal Film Resistor, 10K, 1/4W
|-
|271-27K-RC|| 3||R2,R6,R7
| align="left" |Metal Film Resistor, 27K, 1/4W
|-
|271-120-RC|| 1||R3
| align="left" |Metal Film Resistor, 120, 1/4W
|-
|652-4610X-2LF-470|| 1||RP
| align="left" |Resistor Network, 470, 10-Pin SIP, Isolated Resistors
|-
|78-1N5229B|| 1||D1
| align="left" |Diode, Zener, 4.3V, 0.5W
|-
|78-1N5239B|| 1||D2
| align="left" |Diode, Zener, 9.1V, 0.5W
|-
|571-5520251-4|| 4||JP1,JP2,JP4,JP5
| align="left" |Modular Jack, Right-Angle, 8-8
|-
|571-1032394|| 1||JP3
| align="left" |Vertical Header, 4 Pin
|-
|571-1032396|| 1||JP6
| align="left" |Vertical Header, 6 Pin
|-
|571-41032390||.||.
| align="left" |Vertical Header, 40 Pin (can be broken into smaller headers for above)
|-
|512-2N3904TA|| 1||Q1
| align="left" |Transistor, NPN, small signal
|-
|571-1-390261-5|| 1||.
| align="left" |18 Pin DIP socket (optional)
|-
|571-1-390261-3|| 1||.
| align="left" |14 Pin DIP socket (optional)
|-
|571-1-390261-2|| 1||.
| align="left" |08 Pin DIP Socket (optional)
|}

Below is the same parts list as above but it is formatted for direct importing into the Mouser BOM feature.
Just copy and paste the list as is. The last 3 parts listed correspond to the optional items listed above.

815-AB-20-B2 1
581-SA102A220JAR 2
581-SA105E104MAR 2
140-XRL10V10-RC 1
604-WP7104GT 5
595-SN65LBC179P 1
511-M74HC02 1
579-PIC16F627A-I/P 1
271-1K-RC 2
271-10K-RC 2
271-27K-RC 3
271-120-RC 1
652-4610X-2LF-470 1
78-1N5229B 1
78-1N5239B 1
571-5520251-4 4
512-2N3904TA 1
571-1032394 1
571-1032396 1
571-1-390261-5 1
571-1-390261-3 1
571-1-390261-2 1

==Related Link==
:[[Renard-595 Converter | Ren-C]]

:[[Renard Main Page]]

:[[Renard Firmware]]

:[[Part Substitutions]]

:[[Vixen|VIXEN]]

:[[Glossary | Glossary of DIYC Terms]]

:[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electronic_symbol Electronic Symbols]

[[Category:Ren-C]]

REN-C PCB ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS

2009-11-04T20:54:53Z

Wjohn: /* ZC and RENT requirements */

==Board Assembly==
:Assembling the Ren-C should be fairly easy for most hobbyists.

:The following sequence of steps is by no means the only way to do this. It is simply a suggested order of events to achieve the desired goal.

{| border="0" cellpadding="10" style="text-align: left;"
!width="300"|
!width="200"|
|-
|
*Start by checking the PCB over for any production faults. Ensure that none of the tracks are shorted or open and that all holes are clear.
|| [[Image:Wiki - Ren-C Assembly Step 01.jpg | 200px]]
|-
|
*Install two 22pF capacitors C1, C2 (PN# 581-SA102A220JAR). These capacitors have no polarity to worry about.
|| [[Image:Wiki - Ren-C Assembly Step 02.jpg | 200px]]
|-
|
*Install two 0.1uF capacitors C3, C5 (PN# 581-SA105E104MAR). These capacitors have no polarity to worry about.
|| [[Image:Wiki - Ren-C Assembly Step 03.jpg | 200px]]
|-
|
*Install three 27K ohm resistors R2, R6, R7 (PN# 271-27K-RC). Make sure that the resistors have a value of 27K ohm (red/violet/black/red/gold stripes). These resistors have no polarity to worry about.
|| [[Image:Wiki - Ren-C Assembly Step 04.jpg | 200px]]
|-
|
*Install two 10K ohm resistors R8, R9 (PN# 271-10K-RC). Make sure that the resistors have a value of 10K ohm (brown/black/black/red/gold stripes). These resistors have no polarity to worry about.
|| [[Image:Wiki - Ren-C Assembly Step 05.jpg | 200px]]
|-
|
*Install two 1K ohm resistors R4, R5 (PN# 271-1K-RC). Make sure that the resistors have a value of 1K ohm (brown/black/black/brown/gold stripes). These resistors have no polarity to worry about.
|| [[Image:Wiki - Ren-C Assembly Step 06.jpg | 200px]]
|-
|
*Install 120 ohm resistor R3 (PN# 271-120-RC). Make sure that the resistor has a value of 120 ohm (brown/red/black/black/gold stripes). This resistor has no polarity to worry about.
|| [[Image:Wiki - Ren-C Assembly Step 07.jpg | 200px]]
|-
|
*Install zener diode D1 (PN# 78-1N5229B). The diode must go in correctly. The diode should have a black stripe on the orange/red body. Make sure that this stripe lines up with the stripe on the silk screen mask on the PCB.
|| [[Image:Wiki - Ren-C Assembly Step 08.jpg | 200px]]
|-
|
*Install zener diode D2 (PN# 78-1N5239B). The diode must go in correctly. The diode should have a black stripe on the orange/red body. Make sure that this stripe lines up with the stripe on the silk screen mask on the PCB.
|| [[Image:Wiki - Ren-C Assembly Step 09.jpg | 200px]]
|-
|
*Install transistor Q1 (PN# 512-2N3904TA). This device must also be correctly mounted. Make sure that the flat side of Q1 is aligned with the silk screen.
|| [[Image:Wiki - Ren-C Assembly Step 10.jpg | 200px]]
|-
|
*Install five LEDs D3, D4, D5, D6, D7 (PN# 604-WP7104GT). The LEDs are polarized and must be mounted correctly. The short lead is the cathode and must be placed in the square solder pad. Another way to check is if your LED has a flat side to it then that side must be aligned with the silk screen.

 
<center>'''NOTE:''' </center>
<blockquote>In the picture 2 red LEDs were substitued for the green ones called for in the BOM. This was done just as a personal preference.</blockquote>
|| [[Image:Wiki - Ren-C Assembly Step 11.jpg | 200px]]
|-
|
*Install resistor network RP (PN# 652-4610X-2LF-470). The resistor network should have a dot on it to indicate pin 1. Insert pin 1 of the resistor network into the square solder pad.
|| [[Image:Wiki - Ren-C Assembly Step 12.jpg | 200px]]
|-
|
*Install crystal Y1 (PN# 815-AB-20-B2). The crystal has no polarity to worry about. It is helpful to carefully bend the leads for the desired component position prior to soldering them in-place.
|| [[Image:Wiki - Ren-C Assembly Step 13.jpg | 200px]]
|-
|
*Install 10uF capacitor C4 (PN# 140-XRL10V10-RC). This capacitor is polarized and must be mounted correctly. The capacitor should have a black stripe on the body to indicate which lead is negative. The positive lead of the capacitor will be the longer lead. Make sure that the positive lead is placed in the square solder pad.
|| [[Image:Wiki - Ren-C Assembly Step 14.jpg | 200px]]
|-
|colspan="2"|
 
<blockquote> The next three items are optional but if you are going to use them then now would be a good time to install them. </blockquote>
 
<center>'''INSTALLATION NOTE:''' </center>
<blockquote>Pin 1 of the sockets must be aligned with the square solder pad. Another way to verify that you installed them correctly is to make sure that the notch on the socket is aligned with the notch on the PCB silk screen outline.
</blockquote>
|-
|
*Install the 18 pin IC socket (PN# 571-1-390261-5).
|| [[Image:Wiki - Ren-C Assembly Step 15.jpg | 200px]]
|-
|
*Install the 14 pin IC socket (PN# 571-1-390261-3).
|| [[Image:Wiki - Ren-C Assembly Step 16.jpg | 200px]]
|-
|
*Install the 8 pin IC socket (PN# 571-1-390261-2).
|| [[Image:Wiki - Ren-C Assembly Step 17.jpg | 200px]]
|-
|
*Install 6-pin vertical header JP6 (PN# 571-1032396).
|| [[Image:Wiki - Ren-C Assembly Step 18.jpg | 200px]]
|-
|
*Install 4-pin vertical header JP3 (PN# 571-1032394).
|| [[Image:Wiki - Ren-C Assembly Step 19.jpg | 200px]]
|-
|
*Install four RJ45 jack sockets JP1, JP2, JP4, JP5 (PN# 571-5520251-4). Due to minor variations in manufacturing, some RJ45 sockets are a tighter fit than others. Care should be taken to ensure that the pins are aligned first before applying too much pressure to seat the locking lugs through the board.
|| [[Image:Wiki - Ren-C Assembly Step 20.jpg | 200px]]
|-
|
 
<center>'''INSTALLATION NOTE:''' </center>
<blockquote>Ensure that pin 1 of the each IC is aligned with pin 1 of the respective socket. Can be verified by noting that the notch on the IC is aligned with the notch on the socket. </blockquote>
|-
|
*Install IC U1 (PN# 595-SN65LBC179P) into the 8 pin IC socket.
*Install IC U2 (PN# 511-M74HC02) into the 14 pin IC socket.
*Install IC U3 (PN# 579-PIC16F627A-I/P) into the 18 pin IC socket.
|| [[Image:Wiki - Ren-C Assembly Step 21.jpg | 200px]]
|}

<center><blockquote>'''CONGATULATIONS!''' You have just finished building your Ren-C board.</blockquote></center>

==ZC and RENT requirements==
When the REN64XB and RENC were first released, there was an extra board that was made available, the RENT. The function of the RENT was to provide power and a source of ZC to the controllers.

The RENC did not require separate power as it draws 5 V DC from the GRINCH board. What it does need is a source of ZC.

What is ZC? Zero Cross reference. When dimming, the RENC needs to know the start of the AC signal waveform, i.e. when it crosses over Zero V AC. A small sample of AC voltage is required to obtain the ZC.

There are a couple of options.

Option 1 - User a small AC stepdown transformer (12.6V CT) and build a simple circuit to rectify the Low V AC to DC.

Option 2 - Use a small AC stepdown transformer (12.6V CT) and build a OPTOISOLATOR circuit to provide a source of ZC.

=='''Parts Listing (BOM)'''==
{| border="1" cellpadding="10" style="text-align: center;"
!width="200"|
!width="50"|
!width="100"|
!width="350"|
|-
!| PART NUMBER (Mouser PN# unless noted) || QTY || REF || NOMENCLATURE
|-
|815-AB-20-B2|| 1||Y1
| align="left" | 20.000 MHz Crystal, HC49U case
|-
|581-SA102A220JAR|| 2||C1,C2
| align="left" |22 pf, 200V NPO Axial Ceramic Capacitors
|-
|581-SA105E104MAR|| 2||C3,C5
| align="left" |.1 uF, 50V, Z5U Axial Ceramic Capacitors
|-
|140-XRL10V10-RC|| 1||C4
| align="left" |10 uF, 10V, Radial Aluminum Electrolytic Cap
|-
|604-WP7104GT|| 5||D3-D7
| align="left" |Green Transparent LED, 3mm
|-
|604-WP7104IT|| . ||D3-D7
| align="left" |Red LED, 3mm (alternative to Green LED)
|-
|595-SN65LBC179P|| 1||U1
| align="left" |RS485 Receiver/Transmitter (DIP8)
|-
|511-M74HC02|| 1||U2
| align="left" |Quad 2-Input NOR Gate (DIP14)
|-
|579-PIC16F627A-I/P|| 1||U3
| align="left" | PICmicro - PIC16Fxxx Flash MCUs 1.75KB 224 RAM 16I/O
|-
|271-1K-RC|| 2||R4,R5
| align="left" |Metal Film Resistor, 1K, 1/4W
|-
|271-10K-RC|| 2||R8,R9
| align="left" |Metal Film Resistor, 10K, 1/4W
|-
|271-27K-RC|| 3||R2,R6,R7
| align="left" |Metal Film Resistor, 27K, 1/4W
|-
|271-120-RC|| 1||R3
| align="left" |Metal Film Resistor, 120, 1/4W
|-
|652-4610X-2LF-470|| 1||RP
| align="left" |Resistor Network, 470, 10-Pin SIP, Isolated Resistors
|-
|78-1N5229B|| 1||D1
| align="left" |Diode, Zener, 4.3V, 0.5W
|-
|78-1N5239B|| 1||D2
| align="left" |Diode, Zener, 9.1V, 0.5W
|-
|571-5520251-4|| 4||JP1,JP2,JP4,JP5
| align="left" |Modular Jack, Right-Angle, 8-8
|-
|571-1032394|| 1||JP3
| align="left" |Vertical Header, 4 Pin
|-
|571-1032396|| 1||JP6
| align="left" |Vertical Header, 6 Pin
|-
|571-41032390||.||.
| align="left" |Vertical Header, 40 Pin (can be broken into smaller headers for above)
|-
|512-2N3904TA|| 1||Q1
| align="left" |Transistor, NPN, small signal
|-
|571-1-390261-5|| 1||.
| align="left" |18 Pin DIP socket (optional)
|-
|571-1-390261-3|| 1||.
| align="left" |14 Pin DIP socket (optional)
|-
|571-1-390261-2|| 1||.
| align="left" |08 Pin DIP Socket (optional)
|}

Below is the same parts list as above but it is formatted for direct importing into the Mouser BOM feature.
Just copy and paste the list as is. The last 3 parts listed correspond to the optional items listed above.

815-AB-20-B2 1
581-SA102A220JAR 2
581-SA105E104MAR 2
140-XRL10V10-RC 1
604-WP7104GT 5
595-SN65LBC179P 1
511-M74HC02 1
579-PIC16F627A-I/P 1
271-1K-RC 2
271-10K-RC 2
271-27K-RC 3
271-120-RC 1
652-4610X-2LF-470 1
78-1N5229B 1
78-1N5239B 1
571-5520251-4 4
512-2N3904TA 1
571-1032394 1
571-1032396 1
571-1-390261-5 1
571-1-390261-3 1
571-1-390261-2 1

==Related Link==
:[[Renard-595 Converter | Ren-C]]

:[[Renard Main Page]]

:[[Renard Firmware]]

:[[Part Substitutions]]

:[[Vixen|VIXEN]]

:[[Glossary | Glossary of DIYC Terms]]

:[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electronic_symbol Electronic Symbols]

[[Category:Ren-C]]

File:Another RENT (H11A1).jpg

2009-11-04T20:54:45Z

Wjohn:

File:Simple RenT Design.jpg

2009-11-04T20:54:28Z

Wjohn:

REN-C PCB ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS

2009-11-04T20:43:30Z

Wjohn: /* Board Assembly */

==Board Assembly==
:Assembling the Ren-C should be fairly easy for most hobbyists.

:The following sequence of steps is by no means the only way to do this. It is simply a suggested order of events to achieve the desired goal.

{| border="0" cellpadding="10" style="text-align: left;"
!width="300"|
!width="200"|
|-
|
*Start by checking the PCB over for any production faults. Ensure that none of the tracks are shorted or open and that all holes are clear.
|| [[Image:Wiki - Ren-C Assembly Step 01.jpg | 200px]]
|-
|
*Install two 22pF capacitors C1, C2 (PN# 581-SA102A220JAR). These capacitors have no polarity to worry about.
|| [[Image:Wiki - Ren-C Assembly Step 02.jpg | 200px]]
|-
|
*Install two 0.1uF capacitors C3, C5 (PN# 581-SA105E104MAR). These capacitors have no polarity to worry about.
|| [[Image:Wiki - Ren-C Assembly Step 03.jpg | 200px]]
|-
|
*Install three 27K ohm resistors R2, R6, R7 (PN# 271-27K-RC). Make sure that the resistors have a value of 27K ohm (red/violet/black/red/gold stripes). These resistors have no polarity to worry about.
|| [[Image:Wiki - Ren-C Assembly Step 04.jpg | 200px]]
|-
|
*Install two 10K ohm resistors R8, R9 (PN# 271-10K-RC). Make sure that the resistors have a value of 10K ohm (brown/black/black/red/gold stripes). These resistors have no polarity to worry about.
|| [[Image:Wiki - Ren-C Assembly Step 05.jpg | 200px]]
|-
|
*Install two 1K ohm resistors R4, R5 (PN# 271-1K-RC). Make sure that the resistors have a value of 1K ohm (brown/black/black/brown/gold stripes). These resistors have no polarity to worry about.
|| [[Image:Wiki - Ren-C Assembly Step 06.jpg | 200px]]
|-
|
*Install 120 ohm resistor R3 (PN# 271-120-RC). Make sure that the resistor has a value of 120 ohm (brown/red/black/black/gold stripes). This resistor has no polarity to worry about.
|| [[Image:Wiki - Ren-C Assembly Step 07.jpg | 200px]]
|-
|
*Install zener diode D1 (PN# 78-1N5229B). The diode must go in correctly. The diode should have a black stripe on the orange/red body. Make sure that this stripe lines up with the stripe on the silk screen mask on the PCB.
|| [[Image:Wiki - Ren-C Assembly Step 08.jpg | 200px]]
|-
|
*Install zener diode D2 (PN# 78-1N5239B). The diode must go in correctly. The diode should have a black stripe on the orange/red body. Make sure that this stripe lines up with the stripe on the silk screen mask on the PCB.
|| [[Image:Wiki - Ren-C Assembly Step 09.jpg | 200px]]
|-
|
*Install transistor Q1 (PN# 512-2N3904TA). This device must also be correctly mounted. Make sure that the flat side of Q1 is aligned with the silk screen.
|| [[Image:Wiki - Ren-C Assembly Step 10.jpg | 200px]]
|-
|
*Install five LEDs D3, D4, D5, D6, D7 (PN# 604-WP7104GT). The LEDs are polarized and must be mounted correctly. The short lead is the cathode and must be placed in the square solder pad. Another way to check is if your LED has a flat side to it then that side must be aligned with the silk screen.

 
<center>'''NOTE:''' </center>
<blockquote>In the picture 2 red LEDs were substitued for the green ones called for in the BOM. This was done just as a personal preference.</blockquote>
|| [[Image:Wiki - Ren-C Assembly Step 11.jpg | 200px]]
|-
|
*Install resistor network RP (PN# 652-4610X-2LF-470). The resistor network should have a dot on it to indicate pin 1. Insert pin 1 of the resistor network into the square solder pad.
|| [[Image:Wiki - Ren-C Assembly Step 12.jpg | 200px]]
|-
|
*Install crystal Y1 (PN# 815-AB-20-B2). The crystal has no polarity to worry about. It is helpful to carefully bend the leads for the desired component position prior to soldering them in-place.
|| [[Image:Wiki - Ren-C Assembly Step 13.jpg | 200px]]
|-
|
*Install 10uF capacitor C4 (PN# 140-XRL10V10-RC). This capacitor is polarized and must be mounted correctly. The capacitor should have a black stripe on the body to indicate which lead is negative. The positive lead of the capacitor will be the longer lead. Make sure that the positive lead is placed in the square solder pad.
|| [[Image:Wiki - Ren-C Assembly Step 14.jpg | 200px]]
|-
|colspan="2"|
 
<blockquote> The next three items are optional but if you are going to use them then now would be a good time to install them. </blockquote>
 
<center>'''INSTALLATION NOTE:''' </center>
<blockquote>Pin 1 of the sockets must be aligned with the square solder pad. Another way to verify that you installed them correctly is to make sure that the notch on the socket is aligned with the notch on the PCB silk screen outline.
</blockquote>
|-
|
*Install the 18 pin IC socket (PN# 571-1-390261-5).
|| [[Image:Wiki - Ren-C Assembly Step 15.jpg | 200px]]
|-
|
*Install the 14 pin IC socket (PN# 571-1-390261-3).
|| [[Image:Wiki - Ren-C Assembly Step 16.jpg | 200px]]
|-
|
*Install the 8 pin IC socket (PN# 571-1-390261-2).
|| [[Image:Wiki - Ren-C Assembly Step 17.jpg | 200px]]
|-
|
*Install 6-pin vertical header JP6 (PN# 571-1032396).
|| [[Image:Wiki - Ren-C Assembly Step 18.jpg | 200px]]
|-
|
*Install 4-pin vertical header JP3 (PN# 571-1032394).
|| [[Image:Wiki - Ren-C Assembly Step 19.jpg | 200px]]
|-
|
*Install four RJ45 jack sockets JP1, JP2, JP4, JP5 (PN# 571-5520251-4). Due to minor variations in manufacturing, some RJ45 sockets are a tighter fit than others. Care should be taken to ensure that the pins are aligned first before applying too much pressure to seat the locking lugs through the board.
|| [[Image:Wiki - Ren-C Assembly Step 20.jpg | 200px]]
|-
|
 
<center>'''INSTALLATION NOTE:''' </center>
<blockquote>Ensure that pin 1 of the each IC is aligned with pin 1 of the respective socket. Can be verified by noting that the notch on the IC is aligned with the notch on the socket. </blockquote>
|-
|
*Install IC U1 (PN# 595-SN65LBC179P) into the 8 pin IC socket.
*Install IC U2 (PN# 511-M74HC02) into the 14 pin IC socket.
*Install IC U3 (PN# 579-PIC16F627A-I/P) into the 18 pin IC socket.
|| [[Image:Wiki - Ren-C Assembly Step 21.jpg | 200px]]
|}

<center><blockquote>'''CONGATULATIONS!''' You have just finished building your Ren-C board.</blockquote></center>

==ZC and RENT requirements==
:Assembling the Ren-C should be fairly easy for most hobbyists.

=='''Parts Listing (BOM)'''==
{| border="1" cellpadding="10" style="text-align: center;"
!width="200"|
!width="50"|
!width="100"|
!width="350"|
|-
!| PART NUMBER (Mouser PN# unless noted) || QTY || REF || NOMENCLATURE
|-
|815-AB-20-B2|| 1||Y1
| align="left" | 20.000 MHz Crystal, HC49U case
|-
|581-SA102A220JAR|| 2||C1,C2
| align="left" |22 pf, 200V NPO Axial Ceramic Capacitors
|-
|581-SA105E104MAR|| 2||C3,C5
| align="left" |.1 uF, 50V, Z5U Axial Ceramic Capacitors
|-
|140-XRL10V10-RC|| 1||C4
| align="left" |10 uF, 10V, Radial Aluminum Electrolytic Cap
|-
|604-WP7104GT|| 5||D3-D7
| align="left" |Green Transparent LED, 3mm
|-
|604-WP7104IT|| . ||D3-D7
| align="left" |Red LED, 3mm (alternative to Green LED)
|-
|595-SN65LBC179P|| 1||U1
| align="left" |RS485 Receiver/Transmitter (DIP8)
|-
|511-M74HC02|| 1||U2
| align="left" |Quad 2-Input NOR Gate (DIP14)
|-
|579-PIC16F627A-I/P|| 1||U3
| align="left" | PICmicro - PIC16Fxxx Flash MCUs 1.75KB 224 RAM 16I/O
|-
|271-1K-RC|| 2||R4,R5
| align="left" |Metal Film Resistor, 1K, 1/4W
|-
|271-10K-RC|| 2||R8,R9
| align="left" |Metal Film Resistor, 10K, 1/4W
|-
|271-27K-RC|| 3||R2,R6,R7
| align="left" |Metal Film Resistor, 27K, 1/4W
|-
|271-120-RC|| 1||R3
| align="left" |Metal Film Resistor, 120, 1/4W
|-
|652-4610X-2LF-470|| 1||RP
| align="left" |Resistor Network, 470, 10-Pin SIP, Isolated Resistors
|-
|78-1N5229B|| 1||D1
| align="left" |Diode, Zener, 4.3V, 0.5W
|-
|78-1N5239B|| 1||D2
| align="left" |Diode, Zener, 9.1V, 0.5W
|-
|571-5520251-4|| 4||JP1,JP2,JP4,JP5
| align="left" |Modular Jack, Right-Angle, 8-8
|-
|571-1032394|| 1||JP3
| align="left" |Vertical Header, 4 Pin
|-
|571-1032396|| 1||JP6
| align="left" |Vertical Header, 6 Pin
|-
|571-41032390||.||.
| align="left" |Vertical Header, 40 Pin (can be broken into smaller headers for above)
|-
|512-2N3904TA|| 1||Q1
| align="left" |Transistor, NPN, small signal
|-
|571-1-390261-5|| 1||.
| align="left" |18 Pin DIP socket (optional)
|-
|571-1-390261-3|| 1||.
| align="left" |14 Pin DIP socket (optional)
|-
|571-1-390261-2|| 1||.
| align="left" |08 Pin DIP Socket (optional)
|}

Below is the same parts list as above but it is formatted for direct importing into the Mouser BOM feature.
Just copy and paste the list as is. The last 3 parts listed correspond to the optional items listed above.

815-AB-20-B2 1
581-SA102A220JAR 2
581-SA105E104MAR 2
140-XRL10V10-RC 1
604-WP7104GT 5
595-SN65LBC179P 1
511-M74HC02 1
579-PIC16F627A-I/P 1
271-1K-RC 2
271-10K-RC 2
271-27K-RC 3
271-120-RC 1
652-4610X-2LF-470 1
78-1N5229B 1
78-1N5239B 1
571-5520251-4 4
512-2N3904TA 1
571-1032394 1
571-1032396 1
571-1-390261-5 1
571-1-390261-3 1
571-1-390261-2 1

==Related Link==
:[[Renard-595 Converter | Ren-C]]

:[[Renard Main Page]]

:[[Renard Firmware]]

:[[Part Substitutions]]

:[[Vixen|VIXEN]]

:[[Glossary | Glossary of DIYC Terms]]

:[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electronic_symbol Electronic Symbols]

[[Category:Ren-C]]

SSRez

2009-11-04T06:37:44Z

Wjohn: /* Early Prototype Picture */

[[Image:SSRez_sm_b.JPG|right|Corrected prototype SSRez with TRIACs facing the CORRECT way]]

==Why ''Another'' SSR? ==

There are lots of SSR designs out there. However, Sean's SSRoz is one of the best. It is compact and functions great and without this initial work, the SSRez may not exist! However, a shortcoming of the design was that it was not designed with a specific enclosure in mind. The initial move towards the SSRez involved changing the layout to fit the TA-200 Telephone Demarc Enclosure from [http://www.yourbroadbandstore.com/product.php?pid=701663 YourBroadbandStore.com].


In order to keep the board to a minimum size and the board cost down, the SSRoz has all the neutral connections off board. So, take all the neutrals and connect them with a large wire nut (five 16AWG neutrals!) Once connected, where does the massive chuck of wire go? :) This led to adding terminals for the neutrals...now this is not inexpensive. The cost was offset in part by removing the vertical fuse holder and replacing it with inexpensive fuse clips.

Lastly, the RJ45 connector could be difficult to remove with the locking pin as the pin ends up in a tight corner. A vertical RJ45 jack made this so much easier.

While changing every thing around, the power traces were beefed up a bit to allow a slightly higher power throughput. This allows for a 7A fuse in place of the original SSRoz fuse of 5A.

so....start out trying to change one problem..and end up with a whole new layout! 

The SSRez can be used as is for most all of the designs found here on DIYC. Some specific uses may require the Bill of Materials to be modified. If the information is not 100% clear, please ask!

== Disclaimers ==

'''PLEASE NOTE: THE OVERLAY FOR THE TRIACS IS INCORRECT. THE TAB SHOULD FACE THE BOTTOM OF THE BOARD, NOT THE TOP.'''

The standard disclaimers apply to the SSRez and can be found [[Disclaimers |here.]]

== Schematic ==

'''<big>Coming Soon</big>'''

== Bill of Materials ==
[https://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=12efc54e27 Mouser BOM]

<pre>
QTY Mouser #: Description
1 571-5556416-1 Modular Jacks 8 PCB TOP ENTRY marked RJ45
1 504-GMC-7 5mm x 20mm Medium Time Delay Fuses 125VAC 7A Med Time Delay
4 511-BTA04-700T Triacs 4 Amp 700 Volt marked Q1, Q2, Q3, and Q4
2 534-3517 Fuse Clips and Holders PC FUSE CLIP 5 MM
1 604-WP7104IT LED Standard HI EFF RED TRANS marked LED
5 660-CF1/4C681J 1/4Watt Axial Leaded Carbon Film Resistors 680ohms 5% marked R5, R6, R7, R8 and R9
4 660-CF1/4C181J 1/4Watt Axial Leaded Carbon Film Resistors 180ohms 5% marked R1, R2, R3 and R4
4 859-MOC3023 Optocomponents Optocoupler TRIAC marked U1, U2, U3 and U4
4 571-1-390261-1 IC Sockets 6P ECONOMY TIN (Optional!) also marked U1, U2, U3 and U4
5 538-39890-0302 Eurostyle Terminal Blocks 5.0MM ECONOMY 2P 14-24AWG
</pre>

Now the above is the base Bill of Materials for 120VAC operation. There are, however, some options that can be handled. These are listed below.

----

''240VAC Operation''

Change R1, R2, R3 and R4 to 330 Ohm and replace the fuse with one rated for 240VAC (one listed is for 125VAC). However, a fuse with a rating of 7A at 250VAC is a heck of alot of power. It is perfectly okay to use a fuse with a lower rating if your overall load is small.

----

''36 VAC Operations'' for those folks ''Down Under'' using toroidal transformers...

Change R1, R2, R3 and R4 to 47 Ohm. The fuse rating is still a MAX of 7A. It does not change because the voltage has been reduced.

----

''24 VAC Operations'' for those folks ''Down Under'' using toroidal transformers...

Change R1, R2, R3 and R4 to 33 Ohm. The fuse rating is still a MAX of 7A. It does not change because the voltage has been reduced.

----

''FireGod''

If the SSRez is going to be used with a FireGod system, Resistors R5-R8 may need to be changed. If the channel LEDs are used on the field modules AND the interface board voltage regulator is 5VDC, replace R5, R6, R7 and R8 with 510 Ohm Resistors. You must also use the "Sinking Code" with the SSRez.

== Construction Information ==

'''<big>This is a work in Progress!!!</big>''' Pictures will be added as they become available. A change in the recomended assembly sequence was made on 10/28/09!!

Oh, many of you will be building more than one SSRez at a time. An assembly line mindset really helps. This means, put all the resistors on all the boards before going to the next part.

Now, get your tools together! Cause here we we go.....

# Sort your parts in the order of assembly. This sounds odd but really helps especially if you have never done this type of assembly before.
# Check your resistors...make sure the part matches whats written on the bag. Every once in a while, the supplier will give you the wrong part. It never hurts to grab a mulitmeter and check those resistors values.
# Inspect your boards for damage. Basically, you are looking for cut traces, deep scratches and other damages since they were shipped.
# Install the 5 680 Ohm Resistors marked R5, R6, R7, R8 and R9. Bend them first to match the holes (I have been known to bend all my resistors while watching TV!) Insert them through the holes and bend the lead back to about 60 deg on both side to hold them in place. Solder each connection and trim off the excess lead with flush cut snips. '''Note:''' Some electronics folks will tell you to do this differently. There is a high specification soldering procedure (typically for military items) that says to cut the leads to length, and then solder them in place. This will work but this level of detail is not required for this board.
# Install the 4 180 Ohm Resistors for 120VAC operation or the 330 ohm resistors for 240VAC operation. These are marked R1, R2, R3 and R4. The installation process is the same as in Step #4.
# Install the optional 6 pin sockets for U1, U2, U3 and U4. Beware of the orientation of the notch. This is a visual aid to make sure that you put the [http://www.christmasinshirley.com/wiki/index.php?title=Glossary#M MOCs] in correctly. Match the notch with the notch in the silkscreen. Sometimes, a piece of tape can help here. I usually put all four on, cover them with a board and just flip it over. Solder the six pins on each socket. If you choose not to install the sockets, then install the 4 MOCs here in the same manner.
#Install the Power LED. Orientation is critical. The short leg (the Cathode or K) of the LED must go into the square pad. The silkscreen has this marked with a ''K'' Bend the legs out to a 60 deg angle to hold the LED in place. Then solder the leads and trim the excess.
# The fuse clips are next. Be aware the orientation of these as well. There is a small ridge inside the clip to keep the fuse from sliding out axially. This ridge must go to the side opposite the fuse. Using a fuse to hold the two clips in place while soldering has been suggested.
# The 5 terminal blocks are next. The terminals must be assembled first. There is a notch and a pin on the side to mate the 5 parts into on long 10 position terminal. Once assembled, insert the block into the board with the openings for the wires facing outboard. Starting from the middle and working outward, solder in all the pins. These pins are a bit larger and can take more heat and solder than the previous items.
# Now its time for the the TRIACs. These pins are large and they can be difficult to solder at first. If you have problems...[http://www.christmasinshirley.com/wiki/index.php?title=Glossary#T tin] the leads prior to inserting them into the boards. Solder the pins in place and trim the excess.''' NOTE for Ver 1.3!!! : THE SILKSCREEN FOR THE TRIACS IS INCORRECT. THE TAB SHOULD FACE THE BOTTOM OF THE BOARD (THE RJ45 Side), NOT THE TOP.'''
# Last, but not least, install the RJ45 Jack. The jack should snap into the 2 large mounting holes and hold itself in place. The pins are very small and solder very fast so be careful not to add too much solder.
# Clean the board with Isopropyl Alchohol to remove any residual flux.
# Using good lighting and a magnifier, inspect all the solder joints. Solder bridges, cold joints, too little solder and too much solder are typical errors.
# Install the 4 MOCs if you did not in Step #6. Watch the orientation by keeping the notch in the same direction as the silk screen.
# Install the fuse.
# Testing...more on this later.
# Mount the SSRez into the enclosure by using 3 each #8x1/2" Pan head zinc coated sheet metal screws. The screw size is defined by the enclosure bosses. The screw may get a touch tight as it makes the final last few mm.
# Pull the small rubber inserts on the bottom on the enclosure and using a good sharp knife, cut along the lines in the gasket. An Exacto Knife works really well for this. On one gasket cut all along all the three lines. The other one only needs one of the three lines cut. This one is for the CAT5 cable and goes into the left hand side of the enclosure.

== Wiring ==

'''<big>Diagrams Coming Soon</big>'''

== Heat Sink ==

'''<big>Template Coming Soon</big>'''

== Early Prototype Picture ==

I have left this image, only to record that the version 1.3 and prototype boards have the silkscreen overlay for the TRIACs reversed.

[[Image:SSRez.jpg]]

SSRez

2009-11-04T06:34:23Z

Wjohn:

SSRez

2009-11-04T06:33:06Z

Wjohn:

[[Image:SSRez_sm_b.JPG|right|Wikipedia Encyclopedia]]

==Why ''Another'' SSR? ==

There are lots of SSR designs out there. However, Sean's SSRoz is one of the best. It is compact and functions great and without this initial work, the SSRez may not exist! However, a shortcoming of the design was that it was not designed with a specific enclosure in mind. The initial move towards the SSRez involved changing the layout to fit the TA-200 Telephone Demarc Enclosure from [http://www.yourbroadbandstore.com/product.php?pid=701663 YourBroadbandStore.com].


In order to keep the board to a minimum size and the board cost down, the SSRoz has all the neutral connections off board. So, take all the neutrals and connect them with a large wire nut (five 16AWG neutrals!) Once connected, where does the massive chuck of wire go? :) This led to adding terminals for the neutrals...now this is not inexpensive. The cost was offset in part by removing the vertical fuse holder and replacing it with inexpensive fuse clips.

Lastly, the RJ45 connector could be difficult to remove with the locking pin as the pin ends up in a tight corner. A vertical RJ45 jack made this so much easier.

While changing every thing around, the power traces were beefed up a bit to allow a slightly higher power throughput. This allows for a 7A fuse in place of the original SSRoz fuse of 5A.

so....start out trying to change one problem..and end up with a whole new layout! 

The SSRez can be used as is for most all of the designs found here on DIYC. Some specific uses may require the Bill of Materials to be modified. If the information is not 100% clear, please ask!

== Disclaimers ==

'''PLEASE NOTE: THE OVERLAY FOR THE TRIACS IS INCORRECT. THE TAB SHOULD FACE THE BOTTOM OF THE BOARD, NOT THE TOP.'''

The standard disclaimers apply to the SSRez and can be found [[Disclaimers |here.]]

== Schematic ==

'''<big>Coming Soon</big>'''

== Bill of Materials ==
[https://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=12efc54e27 Mouser BOM]

<pre>
QTY Mouser #: Description
1 571-5556416-1 Modular Jacks 8 PCB TOP ENTRY marked RJ45
1 504-GMC-7 5mm x 20mm Medium Time Delay Fuses 125VAC 7A Med Time Delay
4 511-BTA04-700T Triacs 4 Amp 700 Volt marked Q1, Q2, Q3, and Q4
2 534-3517 Fuse Clips and Holders PC FUSE CLIP 5 MM
1 604-WP7104IT LED Standard HI EFF RED TRANS marked LED
5 660-CF1/4C681J 1/4Watt Axial Leaded Carbon Film Resistors 680ohms 5% marked R5, R6, R7, R8 and R9
4 660-CF1/4C181J 1/4Watt Axial Leaded Carbon Film Resistors 180ohms 5% marked R1, R2, R3 and R4
4 859-MOC3023 Optocomponents Optocoupler TRIAC marked U1, U2, U3 and U4
4 571-1-390261-1 IC Sockets 6P ECONOMY TIN (Optional!) also marked U1, U2, U3 and U4
5 538-39890-0302 Eurostyle Terminal Blocks 5.0MM ECONOMY 2P 14-24AWG
</pre>

Now the above is the base Bill of Materials for 120VAC operation. There are, however, some options that can be handled. These are listed below.

----

''240VAC Operation''

Change R1, R2, R3 and R4 to 330 Ohm and replace the fuse with one rated for 240VAC (one listed is for 125VAC). However, a fuse with a rating of 7A at 250VAC is a heck of alot of power. It is perfectly okay to use a fuse with a lower rating if your overall load is small.

----

''36 VAC Operations'' for those folks ''Down Under'' using toroidal transformers...

Change R1, R2, R3 and R4 to 47 Ohm. The fuse rating is still a MAX of 7A. It does not change because the voltage has been reduced.

----

''24 VAC Operations'' for those folks ''Down Under'' using toroidal transformers...

Change R1, R2, R3 and R4 to 33 Ohm. The fuse rating is still a MAX of 7A. It does not change because the voltage has been reduced.

----

''FireGod''

If the SSRez is going to be used with a FireGod system, Resistors R5-R8 may need to be changed. If the channel LEDs are used on the field modules AND the interface board voltage regulator is 5VDC, replace R5, R6, R7 and R8 with 510 Ohm Resistors. You must also use the "Sinking Code" with the SSRez.

== Construction Information ==

'''<big>This is a work in Progress!!!</big>''' Pictures will be added as they become available. A change in the recomended assembly sequence was made on 10/28/09!!

Oh, many of you will be building more than one SSRez at a time. An assembly line mindset really helps. This means, put all the resistors on all the boards before going to the next part.

Now, get your tools together! Cause here we we go.....

# Sort your parts in the order of assembly. This sounds odd but really helps especially if you have never done this type of assembly before.
# Check your resistors...make sure the part matches whats written on the bag. Every once in a while, the supplier will give you the wrong part. It never hurts to grab a mulitmeter and check those resistors values.
# Inspect your boards for damage. Basically, you are looking for cut traces, deep scratches and other damages since they were shipped.
# Install the 5 680 Ohm Resistors marked R5, R6, R7, R8 and R9. Bend them first to match the holes (I have been known to bend all my resistors while watching TV!) Insert them through the holes and bend the lead back to about 60 deg on both side to hold them in place. Solder each connection and trim off the excess lead with flush cut snips. '''Note:''' Some electronics folks will tell you to do this differently. There is a high specification soldering procedure (typically for military items) that says to cut the leads to length, and then solder them in place. This will work but this level of detail is not required for this board.
# Install the 4 180 Ohm Resistors for 120VAC operation or the 330 ohm resistors for 240VAC operation. These are marked R1, R2, R3 and R4. The installation process is the same as in Step #4.
# Install the optional 6 pin sockets for U1, U2, U3 and U4. Beware of the orientation of the notch. This is a visual aid to make sure that you put the [http://www.christmasinshirley.com/wiki/index.php?title=Glossary#M MOCs] in correctly. Match the notch with the notch in the silkscreen. Sometimes, a piece of tape can help here. I usually put all four on, cover them with a board and just flip it over. Solder the six pins on each socket. If you choose not to install the sockets, then install the 4 MOCs here in the same manner.
#Install the Power LED. Orientation is critical. The short leg (the Cathode or K) of the LED must go into the square pad. The silkscreen has this marked with a ''K'' Bend the legs out to a 60 deg angle to hold the LED in place. Then solder the leads and trim the excess.
# The fuse clips are next. Be aware the orientation of these as well. There is a small ridge inside the clip to keep the fuse from sliding out axially. This ridge must go to the side opposite the fuse. Using a fuse to hold the two clips in place while soldering has been suggested.
# The 5 terminal blocks are next. The terminals must be assembled first. There is a notch and a pin on the side to mate the 5 parts into on long 10 position terminal. Once assembled, insert the block into the board with the openings for the wires facing outboard. Starting from the middle and working outward, solder in all the pins. These pins are a bit larger and can take more heat and solder than the previous items.
# Now its time for the the TRIACs. These pins are large and they can be difficult to solder at first. If you have problems...[http://www.christmasinshirley.com/wiki/index.php?title=Glossary#T tin] the leads prior to inserting them into the boards. Solder the pins in place and trim the excess.''' NOTE for Ver 1.3!!! : THE SILKSCREEN FOR THE TRIACS IS INCORRECT. THE TAB SHOULD FACE THE BOTTOM OF THE BOARD (THE RJ45 Side), NOT THE TOP.'''
# Last, but not least, install the RJ45 Jack. The jack should snap into the 2 large mounting holes and hold itself in place. The pins are very small and solder very fast so be careful not to add too much solder.
# Clean the board with Isopropyl Alchohol to remove any residual flux.
# Using good lighting and a magnifier, inspect all the solder joints. Solder bridges, cold joints, too little solder and too much solder are typical errors.
# Install the 4 MOCs if you did not in Step #6. Watch the orientation by keeping the notch in the same direction as the silk screen.
# Install the fuse.
# Testing...more on this later.
# Mount the SSRez into the enclosure by using 3 each #8x1/2" Pan head zinc coated sheet metal screws. The screw size is defined by the enclosure bosses. The screw may get a touch tight as it makes the final last few mm.
# Pull the small rubber inserts on the bottom on the enclosure and using a good sharp knife, cut along the lines in the gasket. An Exacto Knife works really well for this. On one gasket cut all along all the three lines. The other one only needs one of the three lines cut. This one is for the CAT5 cable and goes into the left hand side of the enclosure.

== Wiring ==

'''<big>Diagrams Coming Soon</big>'''

== Heat Sink ==

'''<big>Template Coming Soon</big>'''

== Early Prototype Picture ==

[[Image:SSRez.jpg]]

File:SSRez sm b.JPG

2009-11-04T06:28:21Z

Wjohn: SSRez with TRIACs correctly orientated

SSRez with TRIACs correctly orientated

SSRez

2009-10-31T01:56:52Z

Wjohn: /* Disclaimers */

[[Image:SSRez.jpg|right|Wikipedia Encyclopedia]]

==Why ''Another'' SSR? ==

There are lots of SSR designs out there. However, Sean's SSRoz is one of the best. It is compact and functions great and without this initial work, the SSRez may not exist! However, a shortcoming of the design was that it was not designed with a specific enclosure in mind. The initial move towards the SSRez involved changing the layout to fit the TA-200 Telephone Demarc Enclosure from [http://www.yourbroadbandstore.com/product.php?pid=701663 YourBroadbandStore.com].


In order to keep the board to a minimum size and the board cost down, the SSRoz has all the neutral connections off board. So, take all the neutrals and connect them with a large wire nut (five 16AWG neutrals!) Once connected, where does the massive chuck of wire go? :) This led to adding terminals for the neutrals...now this is not inexpensive. The cost was offset in part by removing the vertical fuse holder and replacing it with inexpensive fuse clips.

Lastly, the RJ45 connector could be difficult to remove with the locking pin as the pin ends up in a tight corner. A vertical RJ45 jack made this so much easier.

While changing every thing around, the power traces were beefed up a bit to allow a slightly higher power throughput. This allows for a 7A fuse in place of the original SSRoz fuse of 5A.

so....start out trying to change one problem..and end up with a whole new layout! 

The SSRez can be used as is for most all of the designs found here on DIYC. Some specific uses may require the Bill of Materials to be modified. If the information is not 100% clear, please ask!

== Disclaimers ==

'''PLEASE NOTE: THE OVERLAY FOR THE TRIACS IS INCORRECT. THE TAB SHOULD FACE THE BOTTOM OF THE BOARD, NOT THE TOP.'''

The standard disclaimers apply to the SSRez and can be found [[Disclaimers |here.]]

== Schematic ==

'''<big>Coming Soon</big>'''

== Bill of Materials ==
[https://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=12efc54e27 Mouser BOM]

<pre>
QTY Mouser #: Description
1 571-5556416-1 Modular Jacks 8 PCB TOP ENTRY marked RJ45
1 504-GMC-7 5mm x 20mm Medium Time Delay Fuses 125VAC 7A Med Time Delay
4 511-BTA04-700T Triacs 4 Amp 700 Volt marked Q1, Q2, Q3, and Q4
2 534-3517 Fuse Clips and Holders PC FUSE CLIP 5 MM
1 604-WP7104IT LED Standard HI EFF RED TRANS marked LED
5 660-CF1/4C681J 1/4Watt Axial Leaded Carbon Film Resistors 680ohms 5% marked R5, R6, R7, R8 and R9
4 660-CF1/4C181J 1/4Watt Axial Leaded Carbon Film Resistors 180ohms 5% marked R1, R2, R3 and R4
4 859-MOC3023 Optocomponents Optocoupler TRIAC marked U1, U2, U3 and U4
4 571-1-390261-1 IC Sockets 6P ECONOMY TIN (Optional!) also marked U1, U2, U3 and U4
5 538-39890-0302 Eurostyle Terminal Blocks 5.0MM ECONOMY 2P 14-24AWG
</pre>

Now the above is the base Bill of Materials for 120VAC operation. There are, however, some options that can be handled. These are listed below.

----

''240VAC Operation''

Change R1, R2, R3 and R4 to 330 Ohm and replace the fuse with one rated for 240VAC (one listed is for 125VAC). However, a fuse with a rating of 7A at 250VAC is a heck of alot of power. It is perfectly okay to use a fuse with a lower rating if your overall load is small.

----

''36 VAC Operations'' for those folks ''Down Under'' using toroidal transformers...

Change R1, R2, R3 and R4 to 47 Ohm. The fuse rating is still a MAX of 7A. It does not change because the voltage has been reduced.

----

''24 VAC Operations'' for those folks ''Down Under'' using toroidal transformers...

Change R1, R2, R3 and R4 to 33 Ohm. The fuse rating is still a MAX of 7A. It does not change because the voltage has been reduced.

----

''FireGod''

If the SSRez is going to be used with a FireGod system, Resistors R5-R8 may need to be changed. If the channel LEDs are used on the field modules AND the interface board voltage regulator is 5VDC, replace R5, R6, R7 and R8 with 510 Ohm Resistors. You must also use the "Sinking Code" with the SSRez.

== Construction Information ==

'''<big>This is a work in Progress!!!</big>''' Pictures will be added as they become available. A change in the recomended assembly sequence was made on 10/28/09!!

Oh, many of you will be building more than one SSRez at a time. An assembly line mindset really helps. This means, put all the resistors on all the boards before going to the next part.

Now, get your tools together! Cause here we we go.....

# Sort your parts in the order of assembly. This sounds odd but really helps especially if you have never done this type of assembly before.
# Check your resistors...make sure the part matches whats written on the bag. Every once in a while, the supplier will give you the wrong part. It never hurts to grab a mulitmeter and check those resistors values.
# Inspect your boards for damage. Basically, you are looking for cut traces, deep scratches and other damages since they were shipped.
# Install the 5 680 Ohm Resistors marked R5, R6, R7, R8 and R9. Bend them first to match the holes (I have been known to bend all my resistors while watching TV!) Insert them through the holes and bend the lead back to about 60 deg on both side to hold them in place. Solder each connection and trim off the excess lead with flush cut snips. '''Note:''' Some electronics folks will tell you to do this differently. There is a high specification soldering procedure (typically for military items) that says to cut the leads to length, and then solder them in place. This will work but this level of detail is not required for this board.
# Install the 4 180 Ohm Resistors for 120VAC operation or the 330 ohm resistors for 240VAC operation. These are marked R1, R2, R3 and R4. The installation process is the same as in Step #4.
# Install the optional 6 pin sockets for U1, U2, U3 and U4. Beware of the orientation of the notch. This is a visual aid to make sure that you put the [http://www.christmasinshirley.com/wiki/index.php?title=Glossary#M MOCs] in correctly. Match the notch with the notch in the silkscreen. Sometimes, a piece of tape can help here. I usually put all four on, cover them with a board and just flip it over. Solder the six pins on each socket. If you choose not to install the sockets, then install the 4 MOCs here in the same manner.
#Install the Power LED. Orientation is critical. The short leg (the Cathode or K) of the LED must go into the square pad. The silkscreen has this marked with a ''K'' Bend the legs out to a 60 deg angle to hold the LED in place. Then solder the leads and trim the excess.
# The fuse clips are next. Be aware the orientation of these as well. There is a small ridge inside the clip to keep the fuse from sliding out axially. This ridge must go to the side opposite the fuse. Using a fuse to hold the two clips in place while soldering has been suggested.
# The 5 terminal blocks are next. The terminals must be assembled first. There is a notch and a pin on the side to mate the 5 parts into on long 10 position terminal. Once assembled, insert the block into the board with the openings for the wires facing outboard. Starting from the middle and working outward, solder in all the pins. These pins are a bit larger and can take more heat and solder than the previous items.
# Now its time for the the TRIACs. These pins are large and they can be difficult to solder at first. If you have problems...[http://www.christmasinshirley.com/wiki/index.php?title=Glossary#T tin] the leads prior to inserting them into the boards. Solder the pins in place and trim the excess.''' PLEASE NOTE: the OVERLAY FOR THE TRIACS IS INCORRECT. THE TAB SHOULD FACE THE BOTTOM OF THE BOARD, NOT THE TOP.'''
# Last, but not least, install the RJ45 Jack. The jack should snap into the 2 large mounting holes and hold itself in place. The pins are very small and solder very fast so be careful not to add too much solder.
# Clean the board with Isopropyl Alchohol to remove any residual flux.
# Using good lighting and a magnifier, inspect all the solder joints. Solder bridges, cold joints, too little solder and too much solder are typical errors.
# Install the 4 MOCs if you did not in Step #6. Watch the orientation by keeping the notch in the same direction as the silk screen.
# Install the fuse.
# Testing...more on this later.
# Mount the SSRez into the enclosure by using 3 each #8x1/2" Pan head zinc coated sheet metal screws. The screw size is defined by the enclosure bosses. The screw may get a touch tight as it makes the final last few mm.
# Pull the small rubber inserts on the bottom on the enclosure and using a good sharp knife, cut along the lines in the gasket. An Exacto Knife works really well for this. On one gasket cut all along all the three lines. The other one only needs one of the three lines cut. This one is for the CAT5 cable and goes into the left hand side of the enclosure.

== Wiring ==

'''<big>Diagrams Coming Soon</big>'''

== Heat Sink ==

'''<big>Template Coming Soon</big>'''

== Early Prototype Picture ==

[[Image:SSRez.jpg]]

SSRez

2009-10-31T01:56:35Z

Wjohn: /* Disclaimers */

[[Image:SSRez.jpg|right|Wikipedia Encyclopedia]]

==Why ''Another'' SSR? ==

There are lots of SSR designs out there. However, Sean's SSRoz is one of the best. It is compact and functions great and without this initial work, the SSRez may not exist! However, a shortcoming of the design was that it was not designed with a specific enclosure in mind. The initial move towards the SSRez involved changing the layout to fit the TA-200 Telephone Demarc Enclosure from [http://www.yourbroadbandstore.com/product.php?pid=701663 YourBroadbandStore.com].


In order to keep the board to a minimum size and the board cost down, the SSRoz has all the neutral connections off board. So, take all the neutrals and connect them with a large wire nut (five 16AWG neutrals!) Once connected, where does the massive chuck of wire go? :) This led to adding terminals for the neutrals...now this is not inexpensive. The cost was offset in part by removing the vertical fuse holder and replacing it with inexpensive fuse clips.

Lastly, the RJ45 connector could be difficult to remove with the locking pin as the pin ends up in a tight corner. A vertical RJ45 jack made this so much easier.

While changing every thing around, the power traces were beefed up a bit to allow a slightly higher power throughput. This allows for a 7A fuse in place of the original SSRoz fuse of 5A.

so....start out trying to change one problem..and end up with a whole new layout! 

The SSRez can be used as is for most all of the designs found here on DIYC. Some specific uses may require the Bill of Materials to be modified. If the information is not 100% clear, please ask!

== Disclaimers ==

'''PLEASE NOTE: the OVERLAY FOR THE TRIACS IS INCORRECT. THE TAB SHOULD FACE THE BOTTOM OF THE BOARD, NOT THE TOP.'''

The standard disclaimers apply to the SSRez and can be found [[Disclaimers |here.]]

== Schematic ==

'''<big>Coming Soon</big>'''

== Bill of Materials ==
[https://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=12efc54e27 Mouser BOM]

<pre>
QTY Mouser #: Description
1 571-5556416-1 Modular Jacks 8 PCB TOP ENTRY marked RJ45
1 504-GMC-7 5mm x 20mm Medium Time Delay Fuses 125VAC 7A Med Time Delay
4 511-BTA04-700T Triacs 4 Amp 700 Volt marked Q1, Q2, Q3, and Q4
2 534-3517 Fuse Clips and Holders PC FUSE CLIP 5 MM
1 604-WP7104IT LED Standard HI EFF RED TRANS marked LED
5 660-CF1/4C681J 1/4Watt Axial Leaded Carbon Film Resistors 680ohms 5% marked R5, R6, R7, R8 and R9
4 660-CF1/4C181J 1/4Watt Axial Leaded Carbon Film Resistors 180ohms 5% marked R1, R2, R3 and R4
4 859-MOC3023 Optocomponents Optocoupler TRIAC marked U1, U2, U3 and U4
4 571-1-390261-1 IC Sockets 6P ECONOMY TIN (Optional!) also marked U1, U2, U3 and U4
5 538-39890-0302 Eurostyle Terminal Blocks 5.0MM ECONOMY 2P 14-24AWG
</pre>

Now the above is the base Bill of Materials for 120VAC operation. There are, however, some options that can be handled. These are listed below.

----

''240VAC Operation''

Change R1, R2, R3 and R4 to 330 Ohm and replace the fuse with one rated for 240VAC (one listed is for 125VAC). However, a fuse with a rating of 7A at 250VAC is a heck of alot of power. It is perfectly okay to use a fuse with a lower rating if your overall load is small.

----

''36 VAC Operations'' for those folks ''Down Under'' using toroidal transformers...

Change R1, R2, R3 and R4 to 47 Ohm. The fuse rating is still a MAX of 7A. It does not change because the voltage has been reduced.

----

''24 VAC Operations'' for those folks ''Down Under'' using toroidal transformers...

Change R1, R2, R3 and R4 to 33 Ohm. The fuse rating is still a MAX of 7A. It does not change because the voltage has been reduced.

----

''FireGod''

If the SSRez is going to be used with a FireGod system, Resistors R5-R8 may need to be changed. If the channel LEDs are used on the field modules AND the interface board voltage regulator is 5VDC, replace R5, R6, R7 and R8 with 510 Ohm Resistors. You must also use the "Sinking Code" with the SSRez.

== Construction Information ==

'''<big>This is a work in Progress!!!</big>''' Pictures will be added as they become available. A change in the recomended assembly sequence was made on 10/28/09!!

Oh, many of you will be building more than one SSRez at a time. An assembly line mindset really helps. This means, put all the resistors on all the boards before going to the next part.

Now, get your tools together! Cause here we we go.....

# Sort your parts in the order of assembly. This sounds odd but really helps especially if you have never done this type of assembly before.
# Check your resistors...make sure the part matches whats written on the bag. Every once in a while, the supplier will give you the wrong part. It never hurts to grab a mulitmeter and check those resistors values.
# Inspect your boards for damage. Basically, you are looking for cut traces, deep scratches and other damages since they were shipped.
# Install the 5 680 Ohm Resistors marked R5, R6, R7, R8 and R9. Bend them first to match the holes (I have been known to bend all my resistors while watching TV!) Insert them through the holes and bend the lead back to about 60 deg on both side to hold them in place. Solder each connection and trim off the excess lead with flush cut snips. '''Note:''' Some electronics folks will tell you to do this differently. There is a high specification soldering procedure (typically for military items) that says to cut the leads to length, and then solder them in place. This will work but this level of detail is not required for this board.
# Install the 4 180 Ohm Resistors for 120VAC operation or the 330 ohm resistors for 240VAC operation. These are marked R1, R2, R3 and R4. The installation process is the same as in Step #4.
# Install the optional 6 pin sockets for U1, U2, U3 and U4. Beware of the orientation of the notch. This is a visual aid to make sure that you put the [http://www.christmasinshirley.com/wiki/index.php?title=Glossary#M MOCs] in correctly. Match the notch with the notch in the silkscreen. Sometimes, a piece of tape can help here. I usually put all four on, cover them with a board and just flip it over. Solder the six pins on each socket. If you choose not to install the sockets, then install the 4 MOCs here in the same manner.
#Install the Power LED. Orientation is critical. The short leg (the Cathode or K) of the LED must go into the square pad. The silkscreen has this marked with a ''K'' Bend the legs out to a 60 deg angle to hold the LED in place. Then solder the leads and trim the excess.
# The fuse clips are next. Be aware the orientation of these as well. There is a small ridge inside the clip to keep the fuse from sliding out axially. This ridge must go to the side opposite the fuse. Using a fuse to hold the two clips in place while soldering has been suggested.
# The 5 terminal blocks are next. The terminals must be assembled first. There is a notch and a pin on the side to mate the 5 parts into on long 10 position terminal. Once assembled, insert the block into the board with the openings for the wires facing outboard. Starting from the middle and working outward, solder in all the pins. These pins are a bit larger and can take more heat and solder than the previous items.
# Now its time for the the TRIACs. These pins are large and they can be difficult to solder at first. If you have problems...[http://www.christmasinshirley.com/wiki/index.php?title=Glossary#T tin] the leads prior to inserting them into the boards. Solder the pins in place and trim the excess.''' PLEASE NOTE: the OVERLAY FOR THE TRIACS IS INCORRECT. THE TAB SHOULD FACE THE BOTTOM OF THE BOARD, NOT THE TOP.'''
# Last, but not least, install the RJ45 Jack. The jack should snap into the 2 large mounting holes and hold itself in place. The pins are very small and solder very fast so be careful not to add too much solder.
# Clean the board with Isopropyl Alchohol to remove any residual flux.
# Using good lighting and a magnifier, inspect all the solder joints. Solder bridges, cold joints, too little solder and too much solder are typical errors.
# Install the 4 MOCs if you did not in Step #6. Watch the orientation by keeping the notch in the same direction as the silk screen.
# Install the fuse.
# Testing...more on this later.
# Mount the SSRez into the enclosure by using 3 each #8x1/2" Pan head zinc coated sheet metal screws. The screw size is defined by the enclosure bosses. The screw may get a touch tight as it makes the final last few mm.
# Pull the small rubber inserts on the bottom on the enclosure and using a good sharp knife, cut along the lines in the gasket. An Exacto Knife works really well for this. On one gasket cut all along all the three lines. The other one only needs one of the three lines cut. This one is for the CAT5 cable and goes into the left hand side of the enclosure.

== Wiring ==

'''<big>Diagrams Coming Soon</big>'''

== Heat Sink ==

'''<big>Template Coming Soon</big>'''

== Early Prototype Picture ==

[[Image:SSRez.jpg]]

SSRez

2009-10-31T01:56:15Z

Wjohn: /* Disclaimers */

[[Image:SSRez.jpg|right|Wikipedia Encyclopedia]]

==Why ''Another'' SSR? ==

There are lots of SSR designs out there. However, Sean's SSRoz is one of the best. It is compact and functions great and without this initial work, the SSRez may not exist! However, a shortcoming of the design was that it was not designed with a specific enclosure in mind. The initial move towards the SSRez involved changing the layout to fit the TA-200 Telephone Demarc Enclosure from [http://www.yourbroadbandstore.com/product.php?pid=701663 YourBroadbandStore.com].


In order to keep the board to a minimum size and the board cost down, the SSRoz has all the neutral connections off board. So, take all the neutrals and connect them with a large wire nut (five 16AWG neutrals!) Once connected, where does the massive chuck of wire go? :) This led to adding terminals for the neutrals...now this is not inexpensive. The cost was offset in part by removing the vertical fuse holder and replacing it with inexpensive fuse clips.

Lastly, the RJ45 connector could be difficult to remove with the locking pin as the pin ends up in a tight corner. A vertical RJ45 jack made this so much easier.

While changing every thing around, the power traces were beefed up a bit to allow a slightly higher power throughput. This allows for a 7A fuse in place of the original SSRoz fuse of 5A.

so....start out trying to change one problem..and end up with a whole new layout! 

The SSRez can be used as is for most all of the designs found here on DIYC. Some specific uses may require the Bill of Materials to be modified. If the information is not 100% clear, please ask!

== Disclaimers ==
'''
PLEASE NOTE: the OVERLAY FOR THE TRIACS IS INCORRECT. THE TAB SHOULD FACE THE BOTTOM OF THE BOARD, NOT THE TOP.'''

The standard disclaimers apply to the SSRez and can be found [[Disclaimers |here.]]

== Schematic ==

'''<big>Coming Soon</big>'''

== Bill of Materials ==
[https://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=12efc54e27 Mouser BOM]

<pre>
QTY Mouser #: Description
1 571-5556416-1 Modular Jacks 8 PCB TOP ENTRY marked RJ45
1 504-GMC-7 5mm x 20mm Medium Time Delay Fuses 125VAC 7A Med Time Delay
4 511-BTA04-700T Triacs 4 Amp 700 Volt marked Q1, Q2, Q3, and Q4
2 534-3517 Fuse Clips and Holders PC FUSE CLIP 5 MM
1 604-WP7104IT LED Standard HI EFF RED TRANS marked LED
5 660-CF1/4C681J 1/4Watt Axial Leaded Carbon Film Resistors 680ohms 5% marked R5, R6, R7, R8 and R9
4 660-CF1/4C181J 1/4Watt Axial Leaded Carbon Film Resistors 180ohms 5% marked R1, R2, R3 and R4
4 859-MOC3023 Optocomponents Optocoupler TRIAC marked U1, U2, U3 and U4
4 571-1-390261-1 IC Sockets 6P ECONOMY TIN (Optional!) also marked U1, U2, U3 and U4
5 538-39890-0302 Eurostyle Terminal Blocks 5.0MM ECONOMY 2P 14-24AWG
</pre>

Now the above is the base Bill of Materials for 120VAC operation. There are, however, some options that can be handled. These are listed below.

----

''240VAC Operation''

Change R1, R2, R3 and R4 to 330 Ohm and replace the fuse with one rated for 240VAC (one listed is for 125VAC). However, a fuse with a rating of 7A at 250VAC is a heck of alot of power. It is perfectly okay to use a fuse with a lower rating if your overall load is small.

----

''36 VAC Operations'' for those folks ''Down Under'' using toroidal transformers...

Change R1, R2, R3 and R4 to 47 Ohm. The fuse rating is still a MAX of 7A. It does not change because the voltage has been reduced.

----

''24 VAC Operations'' for those folks ''Down Under'' using toroidal transformers...

Change R1, R2, R3 and R4 to 33 Ohm. The fuse rating is still a MAX of 7A. It does not change because the voltage has been reduced.

----

''FireGod''

If the SSRez is going to be used with a FireGod system, Resistors R5-R8 may need to be changed. If the channel LEDs are used on the field modules AND the interface board voltage regulator is 5VDC, replace R5, R6, R7 and R8 with 510 Ohm Resistors. You must also use the "Sinking Code" with the SSRez.

== Construction Information ==

'''<big>This is a work in Progress!!!</big>''' Pictures will be added as they become available. A change in the recomended assembly sequence was made on 10/28/09!!

Oh, many of you will be building more than one SSRez at a time. An assembly line mindset really helps. This means, put all the resistors on all the boards before going to the next part.

Now, get your tools together! Cause here we we go.....

# Sort your parts in the order of assembly. This sounds odd but really helps especially if you have never done this type of assembly before.
# Check your resistors...make sure the part matches whats written on the bag. Every once in a while, the supplier will give you the wrong part. It never hurts to grab a mulitmeter and check those resistors values.
# Inspect your boards for damage. Basically, you are looking for cut traces, deep scratches and other damages since they were shipped.
# Install the 5 680 Ohm Resistors marked R5, R6, R7, R8 and R9. Bend them first to match the holes (I have been known to bend all my resistors while watching TV!) Insert them through the holes and bend the lead back to about 60 deg on both side to hold them in place. Solder each connection and trim off the excess lead with flush cut snips. '''Note:''' Some electronics folks will tell you to do this differently. There is a high specification soldering procedure (typically for military items) that says to cut the leads to length, and then solder them in place. This will work but this level of detail is not required for this board.
# Install the 4 180 Ohm Resistors for 120VAC operation or the 330 ohm resistors for 240VAC operation. These are marked R1, R2, R3 and R4. The installation process is the same as in Step #4.
# Install the optional 6 pin sockets for U1, U2, U3 and U4. Beware of the orientation of the notch. This is a visual aid to make sure that you put the [http://www.christmasinshirley.com/wiki/index.php?title=Glossary#M MOCs] in correctly. Match the notch with the notch in the silkscreen. Sometimes, a piece of tape can help here. I usually put all four on, cover them with a board and just flip it over. Solder the six pins on each socket. If you choose not to install the sockets, then install the 4 MOCs here in the same manner.
#Install the Power LED. Orientation is critical. The short leg (the Cathode or K) of the LED must go into the square pad. The silkscreen has this marked with a ''K'' Bend the legs out to a 60 deg angle to hold the LED in place. Then solder the leads and trim the excess.
# The fuse clips are next. Be aware the orientation of these as well. There is a small ridge inside the clip to keep the fuse from sliding out axially. This ridge must go to the side opposite the fuse. Using a fuse to hold the two clips in place while soldering has been suggested.
# The 5 terminal blocks are next. The terminals must be assembled first. There is a notch and a pin on the side to mate the 5 parts into on long 10 position terminal. Once assembled, insert the block into the board with the openings for the wires facing outboard. Starting from the middle and working outward, solder in all the pins. These pins are a bit larger and can take more heat and solder than the previous items.
# Now its time for the the TRIACs. These pins are large and they can be difficult to solder at first. If you have problems...[http://www.christmasinshirley.com/wiki/index.php?title=Glossary#T tin] the leads prior to inserting them into the boards. Solder the pins in place and trim the excess.''' PLEASE NOTE: the OVERLAY FOR THE TRIACS IS INCORRECT. THE TAB SHOULD FACE THE BOTTOM OF THE BOARD, NOT THE TOP.'''
# Last, but not least, install the RJ45 Jack. The jack should snap into the 2 large mounting holes and hold itself in place. The pins are very small and solder very fast so be careful not to add too much solder.
# Clean the board with Isopropyl Alchohol to remove any residual flux.
# Using good lighting and a magnifier, inspect all the solder joints. Solder bridges, cold joints, too little solder and too much solder are typical errors.
# Install the 4 MOCs if you did not in Step #6. Watch the orientation by keeping the notch in the same direction as the silk screen.
# Install the fuse.
# Testing...more on this later.
# Mount the SSRez into the enclosure by using 3 each #8x1/2" Pan head zinc coated sheet metal screws. The screw size is defined by the enclosure bosses. The screw may get a touch tight as it makes the final last few mm.
# Pull the small rubber inserts on the bottom on the enclosure and using a good sharp knife, cut along the lines in the gasket. An Exacto Knife works really well for this. On one gasket cut all along all the three lines. The other one only needs one of the three lines cut. This one is for the CAT5 cable and goes into the left hand side of the enclosure.

== Wiring ==

'''<big>Diagrams Coming Soon</big>'''

== Heat Sink ==

'''<big>Template Coming Soon</big>'''

== Early Prototype Picture ==

[[Image:SSRez.jpg]]

SSRez

2009-10-31T01:55:44Z

Wjohn: /* Construction Information */

[[Image:SSRez.jpg|right|Wikipedia Encyclopedia]]

==Why ''Another'' SSR? ==

There are lots of SSR designs out there. However, Sean's SSRoz is one of the best. It is compact and functions great and without this initial work, the SSRez may not exist! However, a shortcoming of the design was that it was not designed with a specific enclosure in mind. The initial move towards the SSRez involved changing the layout to fit the TA-200 Telephone Demarc Enclosure from [http://www.yourbroadbandstore.com/product.php?pid=701663 YourBroadbandStore.com].


In order to keep the board to a minimum size and the board cost down, the SSRoz has all the neutral connections off board. So, take all the neutrals and connect them with a large wire nut (five 16AWG neutrals!) Once connected, where does the massive chuck of wire go? :) This led to adding terminals for the neutrals...now this is not inexpensive. The cost was offset in part by removing the vertical fuse holder and replacing it with inexpensive fuse clips.

Lastly, the RJ45 connector could be difficult to remove with the locking pin as the pin ends up in a tight corner. A vertical RJ45 jack made this so much easier.

While changing every thing around, the power traces were beefed up a bit to allow a slightly higher power throughput. This allows for a 7A fuse in place of the original SSRoz fuse of 5A.

so....start out trying to change one problem..and end up with a whole new layout! 

The SSRez can be used as is for most all of the designs found here on DIYC. Some specific uses may require the Bill of Materials to be modified. If the information is not 100% clear, please ask!

== Disclaimers ==

The standard disclaimers apply to the SSRez and can be found [[Disclaimers |here.]]

== Schematic ==

'''<big>Coming Soon</big>'''

== Bill of Materials ==
[https://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=12efc54e27 Mouser BOM]

<pre>
QTY Mouser #: Description
1 571-5556416-1 Modular Jacks 8 PCB TOP ENTRY marked RJ45
1 504-GMC-7 5mm x 20mm Medium Time Delay Fuses 125VAC 7A Med Time Delay
4 511-BTA04-700T Triacs 4 Amp 700 Volt marked Q1, Q2, Q3, and Q4
2 534-3517 Fuse Clips and Holders PC FUSE CLIP 5 MM
1 604-WP7104IT LED Standard HI EFF RED TRANS marked LED
5 660-CF1/4C681J 1/4Watt Axial Leaded Carbon Film Resistors 680ohms 5% marked R5, R6, R7, R8 and R9
4 660-CF1/4C181J 1/4Watt Axial Leaded Carbon Film Resistors 180ohms 5% marked R1, R2, R3 and R4
4 859-MOC3023 Optocomponents Optocoupler TRIAC marked U1, U2, U3 and U4
4 571-1-390261-1 IC Sockets 6P ECONOMY TIN (Optional!) also marked U1, U2, U3 and U4
5 538-39890-0302 Eurostyle Terminal Blocks 5.0MM ECONOMY 2P 14-24AWG
</pre>

Now the above is the base Bill of Materials for 120VAC operation. There are, however, some options that can be handled. These are listed below.

----

''240VAC Operation''

Change R1, R2, R3 and R4 to 330 Ohm and replace the fuse with one rated for 240VAC (one listed is for 125VAC). However, a fuse with a rating of 7A at 250VAC is a heck of alot of power. It is perfectly okay to use a fuse with a lower rating if your overall load is small.

----

''36 VAC Operations'' for those folks ''Down Under'' using toroidal transformers...

Change R1, R2, R3 and R4 to 47 Ohm. The fuse rating is still a MAX of 7A. It does not change because the voltage has been reduced.

----

''24 VAC Operations'' for those folks ''Down Under'' using toroidal transformers...

Change R1, R2, R3 and R4 to 33 Ohm. The fuse rating is still a MAX of 7A. It does not change because the voltage has been reduced.

----

''FireGod''

If the SSRez is going to be used with a FireGod system, Resistors R5-R8 may need to be changed. If the channel LEDs are used on the field modules AND the interface board voltage regulator is 5VDC, replace R5, R6, R7 and R8 with 510 Ohm Resistors. You must also use the "Sinking Code" with the SSRez.

== Construction Information ==

'''<big>This is a work in Progress!!!</big>''' Pictures will be added as they become available. A change in the recomended assembly sequence was made on 10/28/09!!

Oh, many of you will be building more than one SSRez at a time. An assembly line mindset really helps. This means, put all the resistors on all the boards before going to the next part.

Now, get your tools together! Cause here we we go.....

# Sort your parts in the order of assembly. This sounds odd but really helps especially if you have never done this type of assembly before.
# Check your resistors...make sure the part matches whats written on the bag. Every once in a while, the supplier will give you the wrong part. It never hurts to grab a mulitmeter and check those resistors values.
# Inspect your boards for damage. Basically, you are looking for cut traces, deep scratches and other damages since they were shipped.
# Install the 5 680 Ohm Resistors marked R5, R6, R7, R8 and R9. Bend them first to match the holes (I have been known to bend all my resistors while watching TV!) Insert them through the holes and bend the lead back to about 60 deg on both side to hold them in place. Solder each connection and trim off the excess lead with flush cut snips. '''Note:''' Some electronics folks will tell you to do this differently. There is a high specification soldering procedure (typically for military items) that says to cut the leads to length, and then solder them in place. This will work but this level of detail is not required for this board.
# Install the 4 180 Ohm Resistors for 120VAC operation or the 330 ohm resistors for 240VAC operation. These are marked R1, R2, R3 and R4. The installation process is the same as in Step #4.
# Install the optional 6 pin sockets for U1, U2, U3 and U4. Beware of the orientation of the notch. This is a visual aid to make sure that you put the [http://www.christmasinshirley.com/wiki/index.php?title=Glossary#M MOCs] in correctly. Match the notch with the notch in the silkscreen. Sometimes, a piece of tape can help here. I usually put all four on, cover them with a board and just flip it over. Solder the six pins on each socket. If you choose not to install the sockets, then install the 4 MOCs here in the same manner.
#Install the Power LED. Orientation is critical. The short leg (the Cathode or K) of the LED must go into the square pad. The silkscreen has this marked with a ''K'' Bend the legs out to a 60 deg angle to hold the LED in place. Then solder the leads and trim the excess.
# The fuse clips are next. Be aware the orientation of these as well. There is a small ridge inside the clip to keep the fuse from sliding out axially. This ridge must go to the side opposite the fuse. Using a fuse to hold the two clips in place while soldering has been suggested.
# The 5 terminal blocks are next. The terminals must be assembled first. There is a notch and a pin on the side to mate the 5 parts into on long 10 position terminal. Once assembled, insert the block into the board with the openings for the wires facing outboard. Starting from the middle and working outward, solder in all the pins. These pins are a bit larger and can take more heat and solder than the previous items.
# Now its time for the the TRIACs. These pins are large and they can be difficult to solder at first. If you have problems...[http://www.christmasinshirley.com/wiki/index.php?title=Glossary#T tin] the leads prior to inserting them into the boards. Solder the pins in place and trim the excess.''' PLEASE NOTE: the OVERLAY FOR THE TRIACS IS INCORRECT. THE TAB SHOULD FACE THE BOTTOM OF THE BOARD, NOT THE TOP.'''
# Last, but not least, install the RJ45 Jack. The jack should snap into the 2 large mounting holes and hold itself in place. The pins are very small and solder very fast so be careful not to add too much solder.
# Clean the board with Isopropyl Alchohol to remove any residual flux.
# Using good lighting and a magnifier, inspect all the solder joints. Solder bridges, cold joints, too little solder and too much solder are typical errors.
# Install the 4 MOCs if you did not in Step #6. Watch the orientation by keeping the notch in the same direction as the silk screen.
# Install the fuse.
# Testing...more on this later.
# Mount the SSRez into the enclosure by using 3 each #8x1/2" Pan head zinc coated sheet metal screws. The screw size is defined by the enclosure bosses. The screw may get a touch tight as it makes the final last few mm.
# Pull the small rubber inserts on the bottom on the enclosure and using a good sharp knife, cut along the lines in the gasket. An Exacto Knife works really well for this. On one gasket cut all along all the three lines. The other one only needs one of the three lines cut. This one is for the CAT5 cable and goes into the left hand side of the enclosure.

== Wiring ==

'''<big>Diagrams Coming Soon</big>'''

== Heat Sink ==

'''<big>Template Coming Soon</big>'''

== Early Prototype Picture ==

[[Image:SSRez.jpg]]

Electronics Hardware

2009-06-30T01:41:32Z

Wjohn: /* Pictures of Various Coop Boards (mostly assembled) */

Solid State Relays

2009-06-30T01:40:39Z

Wjohn: /* Designs */

== Overview ==
A Solid State Relay, or SSR, is an electronic device that uses low voltage input to switch high voltage on or off. It is used in Christmas displays to allow the controller to switch the lights on and off. This article will show one who is not familiar with the device a basic overview of how it works.

There are two types of SSRs, AC SSRs (the most common) and DC SSRs. As most Xmas lights are AC powered (110VAC or 24 VAC), DIYC members will use a AC Power SSR to switch or dimm the lights.

For specific requirements (Low Voltage LED MR16 spots and halloween devices) a DC SSR is recommended.

[[Image:SSROZ 2.5a (small).jpg]]

== Circuit Diagram ==

A generic [http://computerchristmas.com/christmas/link-how_to/HowToId-7/How_to_build_a_triac_switching_unit_SSR SSR circuit diagram] is available for download. The SSR depicted in the above schematic is good for controlling resistive loads (lights, resistors). The SSR design for controlling inductive loads (motors, solenoids, etc) is more complicated, and can be found at other sites on the Internet.

== Components ==
There are a few basic components that make up a Solid State Relay.
=== Triac ===
A Triac is a semiconductor device which perfoms the actual switching of the High Voltage current. It is usually in a TO-220 package with three pins.
=== Optocoupler ===
The Optocoupler is a device that helps to keep high voltages out of the control board and computer. It consists of a small LED that is optically coupled to an sensor circuit. The controller powers the LED, which causes the sensor circuit to send power to the Triac. Because there is no electrical path from the controller to the High Voltage, the risk of damage is significantly reduced.
=== Fuse ===
The fuse is another safety device used in many designs to limit the flow of current through the board. It will blow out if an unsafe amount of current passes through it, preventing damage to the board or a fire.
=== Resistors ===
Solid State Relays also have resistors to limit the flow of current through certain components. The value of the resistor can be determined based on the instructions at [http://simpleio.com/design/triacout/AppTriacOutGateResistor.asp SimpleIO]
==Wiki Links==
[[4 Channel SSR Parts List]] Sean Bowf Coop Board 
[[4 Channel SSROZ Assembly Instructions]]

== Designs ==
*[http://christmasinshirley.com/wiki/index.php?title=4_Channel_DCSSR_Assembly_Instructions John Wilson's DC SSR 4 Channel]

*[http://christmasinshirley.com/wiki/index.php?title=SSRez Chris and John's SSRez 4 Channel]
*[http://computerchristmas.com/?link=how_to&HowToId=68 Sean Bowf Standard 4-Channel]
*[http://computerchristmas.com/?link=how_to&HowToId=7 Robert Stark 4-Channel]
*[http://computerchristmas.com/?link=how_to&HowToId=13 Robert Stark 6-Channel Power Strip]
*[http://computerchristmas.com/?link=how_to&HowToId=9 Robert Stark 12-Channel]
*[http://computerchristmas.com/?link=how_to&HowToId=48 Frank Kostyun 4-Channel]
*[http://computerchristmas.com/?link=how_to&HowToId=65 David Fansler 8-Channel]
*[http://computerchristmas.com/?link=how_to&HowToId=86 Orien Love 4-Channel Enclosure]
*[http://computerchristmas.com/?link=how_to&HowToId=115 Rodney Harris Pod Enclosure]
*[http://www.christmasinshirley.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=237 James Melvin 4-channel]

SSRez

2009-06-30T01:39:09Z

Wjohn: New page: Here is the SSRez Image:SSRez.jpg

Here is the SSRez

[[Image:SSRez.jpg]]

Electronics Hardware

2009-06-30T01:31:12Z

Wjohn: /* Pictures of Various Coop Boards (mostly assembled) */