DMX to Grinch/595 convertor - Revision history

Ravinglunatic at 04:50, 29 January 2011

2011-01-29T04:50:07Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 04:50, 29 January 2011
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	[[Category:DMX]]		[[Category:DMX]]
	[[Category:The Grinch]]		[[Category:The Grinch]]
			[[Category:Olsen 595]]
	[[Category:DIYC Index]]		[[Category:DIYC Index]]

Ravinglunatic at 02:32, 29 January 2011

2011-01-29T02:32:43Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 02:32, 29 January 2011
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	Parts cost is about $25-30 and I occasionally run co-op's for this PC board and I try to keep a few extras on hand. If you would like more information, you can PM me at username [http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/private.php?do=newpm&u=1269 RPM]		Parts cost is about $25-30 and I occasionally run co-op's for this PC board and I try to keep a few extras on hand. If you would like more information, you can PM me at username [http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/private.php?do=newpm&u=1269 RPM]


			[[Category:RPMs DMX Designs]]
			[[Category:DMX]]
			[[Category:The Grinch]]
			[[Category:DIYC Index]]

RPM at 16:52, 26 April 2010

2010-04-26T16:52:22Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 16:52, 26 April 2010
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	I used this design in my display to run my Grinch controllers for my entire show the first year I ran a computerized show, and I continue to use it to run my 32 channel Megatree and it works very well, and best of all it dims! It also provides power for yor Grinch controller, so no other circuitry (other than a DMX dongle for your computer) is needed to run it.		I used this design in my display to run my Grinch controllers for my entire show the first year I ran a computerized show, and I continue to use it to run my 32 channel Megatree and it works very well, and best of all it dims! It also provides power for yor Grinch controller, so no other circuitry (other than a DMX dongle for your computer) is needed to run it.

	Another plus about this design is it can also convert an Olsen 595 board to dimming as well!		Another plus about this design is it can also convert an Olsen 595 board to dimming as well!

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	J1 on your Grinch controller should be jumpered so that the positive +5 side for operation will be provided through the RJ45 connector from the Grinch DMX dimmer adapter board.		J1 on your Grinch controller should be jumpered so that the positive +5 side for operation will be provided through the RJ45 connector from the Grinch DMX dimmer adapter board.
	This board uses what I call the "~~jumperless~~" method of setting the DMX start channel, so will also need to program the starting channel into the board before it will work.
	It uses the sum of the first two DMX channels (channel 1 & 2) as the start channel address. This is done by powering the board off, then start vixen with the DMX plugin set for the all the channels. Set the intensity levels to use the ~~256~~ level mode not the 100% mode. Create a sequence of 3 seconds or more and set the first channel to the intensity value of the channel you want the board to use as the first channel for the whole 3 seconds so this is the only value output for this channel. If you want the board to start on a channel higher than 255 than simply add the additional to the second channel.		This board uses what I call the "switchless" method of setting the DMX start channel, so you will also need to program the starting channel into the board before it will work.
			It uses the sum of the first two DMX channels (channel 1 & 2) as the start channel address. This is done by powering the board off, then start vixen with the DMX plugin set for the all the channels.
			Set the intensity levels to use the 255 level mode not the 100% mode. Create a sequence of 3 seconds or more and set the first channel to the intensity value of the channel you want the board to use as the first channel for the whole 3 seconds so this is the only value output for this channel. If you want the board to start on a channel higher than 255 than simply add the additional to the second channel.

	For example, to start at channel 300, the first channel is set to 255 and the second is set to 45. Now make sure vixen is set to repeat the sequence and start it. Now with the power still off on the board put the JP3 jumper on and power up the board for 3 seconds. The board will light LED1 and LED 2 solid to indicate that the programming has been saved.		For example, to start at channel 300, the first channel is set to 255 and the second is set to 45. Now make sure vixen is set to repeat the sequence and start it. Now with the power still off on the board put the JP3 jumper on and power up the board for 3 seconds. The board will light LED1 and LED 2 solid to indicate that the programming has been saved.

RPM at 07:25, 17 April 2010

2010-04-17T07:25:03Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 07:25, 17 April 2010
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	By Robert P Martin aka [http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/private.php?do=newpm&u=1269 RPM]		By Robert P Martin aka [http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/private.php?do=newpm&u=1269 RPM]

	Like many others here, I too started out with a Grinch controller. It worked, but I soon realized that I wanted to have dimming, so this meant I had to build another controller, or build my own dimming adapter.
			Like many others here, I too started out with a Grinch controller. It worked, but I soon realized that I wanted to have dimming, so this meant I had to spend more money and build another controller, or build my own dimming adapter and use my existing Grinch controller.

	After looking at the options at the time, I decided to build my own dimming interface for my Grinch controller. I also wanted to use the DMX protocol, since I wanted to run my controller out in the yard some distance from my show computer in my garage, and by using DMX I could easily do this.		After looking at the options at the time, I decided to build my own dimming interface for my Grinch controller. I also wanted to use the DMX protocol, since I wanted to run my controller out in the yard some distance from my show computer in my garage, and by using DMX I could easily do this.

	After a few months of trying different design prototypes, this is the design I came up with:		After a few months of trying different design prototypes, this is the design I came up with:


	[[Image:Grinch_DMX_Dimmer_V2.jpg]]		[[Image:Grinch_DMX_Dimmer_V2.jpg]]
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	[[Image:GrinchDMXdim_SCHEMATIC.JPG]]		[[Image:GrinchDMXdim_SCHEMATIC.JPG]]

	I used this design in my display to run my Grinch controllers for my entire show the first year I ran a computerized show, and I continue to use it to run my 32 channel Megatree and it works very well, and best of all it dims!
			I used this design in my display to run my Grinch controllers for my entire show the first year I ran a computerized show, and I continue to use it to run my 32 channel Megatree and it works very well, and best of all it dims! It also provides power for yor Grinch controller, so no other circuitry (other than a DMX dongle for your computer) is needed to run it.
			Another plus about this design is it can also convert an Olsen 595 board to dimming as well!

	This is brief a explanation of the operation:		This is brief a explanation of the operation:
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	Now turn power to the board off and remove JP3 (operation mode). Your board DMX start channel is now programmed. Remember in my example (channel 300) I would use vixens channel 300 - 364 to control my board now. If it doesn't act like you think it should, reprogram it to channel 1 and try it. An easy way to "default" the board back to a start channel of 1 is to place JP3 on and remove the DMX input cable, power the board on until LEDs 1 & 2 light solid, power off, remove JP3 and when you power back up it will be set back to start channel 1.		Now turn power to the board off and remove JP3 (operation mode). Your board DMX start channel is now programmed. Remember in my example (channel 300) I would use vixens channel 300 - 364 to control my board now. If it doesn't act like you think it should, reprogram it to channel 1 and try it. An easy way to "default" the board back to a start channel of 1 is to place JP3 on and remove the DMX input cable, power the board on until LEDs 1 & 2 light solid, power off, remove JP3 and when you power back up it will be set back to start channel 1.

	You ~~may~~ reprogram it as much as you like the life of the EEPROM is over 1 million cycles so you should have a hard time breaking it. It will remember the information for about 40 years with the power off so you ~~dont~~ have to reprogram it unless you want to change the channel assigned.		You can reprogram it as much as you like as the life of the EEPROM is over 1 million cycles, so you should have a hard time breaking it. It will remember the information for about 40 years with the power off so you don't have to reprogram it unless you want to change the channel assigned.

	A straight through cable should be used between the converter and the Grinch/595 board. This converter will run 64 channels, so you will need one converter per Grinch controller.		A standard straight through CAT5 cable should be used between the converter and the Grinch/595 board. This converter will run 64 channels, so you will need one converter per Grinch controller.

	The distance from the converter to the Grinch/595 should be as short as possible. I use a 1 foot cable with mine and mount it in the same enclosure as my Grinch controller.		The distance from the converter to the Grinch/595 controller should be kept as short as possible. I use a 1 foot cable with mine and mount it in the same enclosure as my Grinch controller, although I have tested it with up to a 15 foot cable.

	I occasionally run co-op's for this board and I try to keep a few extras on hand. If you would like more information, you can PM me at username [http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/private.php?do=newpm&u=1269 RPM]		Parts cost is about $25-30 and I occasionally run co-op's for this PC board and I try to keep a few extras on hand. If you would like more information, you can PM me at username [http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/private.php?do=newpm&u=1269 RPM]

RPM at 07:10, 17 April 2010

2010-04-17T07:10:50Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 07:10, 17 April 2010
Line 1:		Line 1:
	By Robert P Martin aka RPM		By Robert P Martin aka [http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/private.php?do=newpm&u=1269 RPM]

	Like many others here, I too started out with a Grinch controller. It worked, but I soon realized that I wanted to have dimming, so this meant I had to build another controller, or build my own dimming adapter.		Like many others here, I too started out with a Grinch controller. It worked, but I soon realized that I wanted to have dimming, so this meant I had to build another controller, or build my own dimming adapter.
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	The distance from the converter to the Grinch/595 should be as short as possible. I use a 1 foot cable with mine and mount it in the same enclosure as my Grinch controller.		The distance from the converter to the Grinch/595 should be as short as possible. I use a 1 foot cable with mine and mount it in the same enclosure as my Grinch controller.

			I occasionally run co-op's for this board and I try to keep a few extras on hand. If you would like more information, you can PM me at username [http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/private.php?do=newpm&u=1269 RPM]

RPM at 06:50, 17 April 2010

2010-04-17T06:50:14Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 06:50, 17 April 2010
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	~~After posting that I had recieved no interest in a DMX to Grinch/595 converter I was asked by a couple of people for the information so I decied to create a simple how to.~~		By Robert P Martin aka RPM

	~~This is the Schematic :~~		Like many others here, I too started out with a Grinch controller. It worked, but I soon realized that I wanted to have dimming, so this meant I had to build another controller, or build my own dimming adapter.

	~~[[Image:DMXto595~~.~~jpg]]~~		After looking at the options at the time, I decided to build my own dimming interface for my Grinch controller. I also wanted to use the DMX protocol, since I wanted to run my controller out in the yard some distance from my show computer in my garage, and by using DMX I could easily do this.

	~~As you can see its~~ a ~~basic serialy enabled pic chip~~ with ~~a 40MZ clock.~~		After a few months of trying different design prototypes, this is the design I came up with:

	~~Parts List~~ :		[[Image:Grinch_DMX_Dimmer_V2.jpg]]

	~~Ic3 - PIC18F1220-E/P~~ :		[[Image:GrinchDMXdim_SCHEMATIC.JPG]]
	~~Ic4 - ST485EBN :~~
	~~X1 - ECS-2100AX-40~~.~~0MHZ :~~
	~~R1 - 299-120-RC :~~
	~~C4,C5 - SA105E104ZAA :~~

	~~J1.1~~,~~J2.1~~,~~J5.1 - RJ45 jacks your choice :~~		I used this design in my display to run my Grinch controllers for my entire show the first year I ran a computerized show, and I continue to use it to run my 32 channel Megatree and it works very well, and best of all it dims!
	~~J4 - 3 pin sip jumper :~~
	~~J3 - 2 pin sip jumper :~~

			This is brief a explanation of the operation:

	~~You will need~~ the ~~firmware~~. If ~~you decide to build~~ it ~~PM me (RJ) with you email and I will be happy~~ to ~~email~~ the ~~hex file to you for~~ the ~~18F1220~~. ~~I know I could have used other pics but I had these~~ and so it~~'s what I used~~. ~~I also would~~ have to ~~modify~~ the ~~Assm Code for other chips so I used what I had~~.		JP1 is a termination jumper for the DMX signal. If this is the LAST device on the DMX line, put the jumper JP1 on it to terminate the 120 ohm resistor across the DMX buss. The DMX signal does not like to be unterminated, and if left unterminated it can do some strange things. If you have other DMX devices to hook up after this, plug them into this board and do not jumper JP1 the terminator on this board.

	This is a ~~explanation~~ of the ~~operation:~~		J1 on your Grinch controller should be jumpered so that the positive +5 side for operation will be provided through the RJ45 connector from the Grinch DMX dimmer adapter board.
			This board uses what I call the "jumperless" method of setting the DMX start channel, so will also need to program the starting channel into the board before it will work.
			It uses the sum of the first two DMX channels (channel 1 & 2) as the start channel address. This is done by powering the board off, then start vixen with the DMX plugin set for the all the channels. Set the intensity levels to use the 256 level mode not the 100% mode. Create a sequence of 3 seconds or more and set the first channel to the intensity value of the channel you want the board to use as the first channel for the whole 3 seconds so this is the only value output for this channel. If you want the board to start on a channel higher than 255 than simply add the additional to the second channel.

	J3 is ~~a termination jumper for~~ the ~~DMX~~. ~~If this~~ is the ~~last device~~ on the ~~DMX line~~ put the jumper on to ~~terminate~~ the ~~120 ohm resistor across~~ the ~~dmx buss~~. ~~Dmx does not like~~ to ~~be unterminated~~. If you ~~have other dmx devices~~ to ~~hook up after this plug them into the DMX out port~~ and ~~do not jumper~~ the ~~terminator. Pin #2 from my~~ board ~~goes~~ to ~~Pin #2~~ of the ~~dmx~~ and ~~Pin #3 goes~~ to ~~pin #3~~.		For example, to start at channel 300, the first channel is set to 255 and the second is set to 45. Now make sure vixen is set to repeat the sequence and start it. Now with the power still off on the board put the JP3 jumper on and power up the board for 3 seconds. The board will light LED1 and LED 2 solid to indicate that the programming has been saved.
			Now turn power to the board off and remove JP3 (operation mode). Your board DMX start channel is now programmed. Remember in my example (channel 300) I would use vixens channel 300 - 364 to control my board now. If it doesn't act like you think it should, reprogram it to channel 1 and try it. An easy way to "default" the board back to a start channel of 1 is to place JP3 on and remove the DMX input cable, power the board on until LEDs 1 & 2 light solid, power off, remove JP3 and when you power back up it will be set back to start channel 1.

	~~J4 should be jumpered to~~ the ~~positive +5 side for operation. When you get~~ the ~~system finished~~ you ~~need to program the starting channel into the board before~~ it will ~~work. This is done by powering~~ the ~~board off. Start vixen~~ with the ~~dmx plugin set for the all the channels. Set the intensity levels to use the 256 mode not the 100% mode. create a seqence of 3 seconds or~~ so ~~and set the first channel to the intensity value of the channel~~ you ~~want the board~~ to ~~use as the first channel for the whole 3 seconds so this is the only value output for this channel. If~~ you want ~~the board to start on a channel higher than 255 than simply add the additional~~ to the ~~second~~ channel.		You may reprogram it as much as you like the life of the EEPROM is over 1 million cycles so you should have a hard time breaking it. It will remember the information for about 40 years with the power off so you dont have to reprogram it unless you want to change the channel assigned.

	So to start at channel 300 the first channel is set to 255 and the second is set to 45. now make sure vixen is set to repeat the seqence and start it. Now with the power still off on the board set the J4 jumper to the negative side and power up the ~~board for 2 seconds. Turn it off~~ and ~~put~~ the ~~jumper back to the positive side (operation mode). Your board is now programmed and should work. remember in my example (ch 300) I would use vixens channel 300 - 364 to control my~~ board ~~now~~. ~~If it doesn't act like~~ you ~~think it should reprogram it to channel 1 and try it~~.		A straight through cable should be used between the converter and the Grinch/595 board. This converter will run 64 channels, so you will need one converter per Grinch controller.

	You may reprogram it as much as you like the life of the eeprom is over 1 million cycles so you should have a hard time breaking it. It will remember the information for about 40 years with the power off so you dont have to reprogram it unless you want to change the channel assigned.		The distance from the converter to the Grinch/595 should be as short as possible. I use a 1 foot cable with mine and mount it in the same enclosure as my Grinch controller.

	~~A straight through cable should be used between the converter and the Grinch/595 board. This convertor will run 128 channels so you can daisy out of a grinch to another one and it will work.~~

	The distance from the ~~convertor~~ to the Grinch/595 should be ~~able to be up to 20 - 30 feet~~.

	I ~~hope I explained this well enough for those who would like to build one. If not let me know~~.

RJ at 03:11, 31 July 2007

2007-07-31T03:11:21Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 03:11, 31 July 2007
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	Parts List :		Parts List :

	Ic3 - PIC18F1220-E/P		Ic3 - PIC18F1220-E/P :
	Ic4 - ST485EBN		Ic4 - ST485EBN :
	X1 - ECS-2100AX-40.0MHZ		X1 - ECS-2100AX-40.0MHZ :
	R1 - 299-120-RC		R1 - 299-120-RC :
	C4,C5 - SA105E104ZAA		C4,C5 - SA105E104ZAA :

	J1.1,J2.1,J5.1 - RJ45 jacks your choice		J1.1,J2.1,J5.1 - RJ45 jacks your choice :
	J4 - 3 pin sip jumper		J4 - 3 pin sip jumper :
	J3 - 2 pin sip jumper		J3 - 2 pin sip jumper :

RJ at 03:09, 31 July 2007

2007-07-31T03:09:50Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 03:09, 31 July 2007
Line 6:		Line 6:

	As you can see its a basic serialy enabled pic chip with a 40MZ clock.		As you can see its a basic serialy enabled pic chip with a 40MZ clock.

			Parts List :

			Ic3 - PIC18F1220-E/P
			Ic4 - ST485EBN
			X1 - ECS-2100AX-40.0MHZ
			R1 - 299-120-RC
			C4,C5 - SA105E104ZAA

			J1.1,J2.1,J5.1 - RJ45 jacks your choice
			J4 - 3 pin sip jumper
			J3 - 2 pin sip jumper


			You will need the firmware. If you decide to build it PM me (RJ) with you email and I will be happy to email the hex file to you for the 18F1220. I know I could have used other pics but I had these and so it's what I used. I also would have to modify the Assm Code for other chips so I used what I had.

			This is a explanation of the operation:

			J3 is a termination jumper for the DMX. If this is the last device on the DMX line put the jumper on to terminate the 120 ohm resistor across the dmx buss. Dmx does not like to be unterminated. If you have other dmx devices to hook up after this plug them into the DMX out port and do not jumper the terminator. Pin #2 from my board goes to Pin #2 of the dmx and Pin #3 goes to pin #3.

			J4 should be jumpered to the positive +5 side for operation. When you get the system finished you need to program the starting channel into the board before it will work. This is done by powering the board off. Start vixen with the dmx plugin set for the all the channels. Set the intensity levels to use the 256 mode not the 100% mode. create a seqence of 3 seconds or so and set the first channel to the intensity value of the channel you want the board to use as the first channel for the whole 3 seconds so this is the only value output for this channel. If you want the board to start on a channel higher than 255 than simply add the additional to the second channel.

			So to start at channel 300 the first channel is set to 255 and the second is set to 45. now make sure vixen is set to repeat the seqence and start it. Now with the power still off on the board set the J4 jumper to the negative side and power up the board for 2 seconds. Turn it off and put the jumper back to the positive side (operation mode). Your board is now programmed and should work. remember in my example (ch 300) I would use vixens channel 300 - 364 to control my board now. If it doesn't act like you think it should reprogram it to channel 1 and try it.

			You may reprogram it as much as you like the life of the eeprom is over 1 million cycles so you should have a hard time breaking it. It will remember the information for about 40 years with the power off so you dont have to reprogram it unless you want to change the channel assigned.

			A straight through cable should be used between the converter and the Grinch/595 board. This convertor will run 128 channels so you can daisy out of a grinch to another one and it will work.

			The distance from the convertor to the Grinch/595 should be able to be up to 20 - 30 feet.

			I hope I explained this well enough for those who would like to build one. If not let me know.

RJ: New page: After posting that I had recieved no interest in a DMX to Grinch/595 converter I was asked by a couple of people for the information so I decied to create a simple how to. This is the Sc...

2007-07-31T02:42:11Z

New page: After posting that I had recieved no interest in a DMX to Grinch/595 converter I was asked by a couple of people for the information so I decied to create a simple how to. This is the Sc...

New page

After posting that I had recieved no interest in a DMX to Grinch/595 converter I was asked by a couple of people for the information so I decied to create a simple how to.

This is the Schematic :

[[Image:DMXto595.jpg]]

As you can see its a basic serialy enabled pic chip with a 40MZ clock.