Ren-W Controller Heater - Revision history

Dirknerkle at 01:24, 2 July 2012

2012-07-02T01:24:03Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 01:24, 2 July 2012
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	:In some very cold climates (well below 0 degrees F), you may encounter a problem whereby a controller may function fine above freezing, but when the temperature drops below freezing, or even below zero, the controller ceases to respond. The problem is that either the Ren-W cannot "lock in" and capture a signal, which of course creates a communication problem or the temperature is outside the manufacturer's specs for proper operation. For example, the XBee radio is rated to -40C, which is pretty cold. But the MAX232 chip that Ren-W uses comes in multiple kinds, and the operating temperature specifications can vary widely. If the MAX232 ceases to function, communication to the controller cannot occur.		:In some very cold climates (well below 0 degrees F), you may encounter a problem whereby a controller may function fine above freezing, but when the temperature drops below freezing, or even below zero, the controller ceases to respond. The problem is that either the Ren-W cannot "lock in" and capture a signal, which of course creates a communication problem or the temperature is outside the manufacturer's specs for proper operation. For example, the XBee radio is rated to -40C, which is pretty cold. But the MAX232 chip that Ren-W uses comes in multiple kinds, and the operating temperature specifications can vary widely. If the MAX232 ceases to function, communication to the controller cannot occur.

	:Likewise, it's possible that components on the controller itself may cease to function when the environment is outside the operating temperatures of the components. The chips that control RS-485 communication, or the H11AA1 optocoupler, or perhaps even a PIC might not like very cold temperatures.		:Likewise, it's possible that components on the controller itself may cease to function when the environment is outside the operating temperatures of the components. The chips that control RS-485 communication, the H11AA1 optocoupler, the 18.432mhz oscillator, or perhaps even a PIC might not like very cold temperatures.

	:The solution is simple: install a small heater bulb inside the controller box. The steps below outline one solution that is proven to work. In these examples, the heater was added to a Renard SS24 that was mounted inside a CG2000 case.		:The solution is simple: install a small heater bulb inside the controller box. The steps below outline one solution that is proven to work. In these examples, the heater was added to a Renard SS24 that was mounted inside a CG2000 case.

Dirknerkle at 04:03, 23 May 2011

2011-05-23T04:03:31Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 04:03, 23 May 2011
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	:In some very cold climates (below ~~freezing~~), you may encounter a problem whereby a controller may function fine above freezing, but when the temperature drops below freezing, or even below zero, the controller ceases to respond. The problem is that either the Ren-W cannot "lock in" and capture a signal, which of course creates a communication problem or the temperature is outside the manufacturer's specs for proper operation. For example, the XBee radio is rated to -40C, which is pretty cold. But the MAX232 chip that Ren-W uses comes in multiple kinds, and the operating temperature specifications can vary widely. If the MAX232 ceases to function, communication to the controller cannot occur.		:In some very cold climates (well below 0 degrees F), you may encounter a problem whereby a controller may function fine above freezing, but when the temperature drops below freezing, or even below zero, the controller ceases to respond. The problem is that either the Ren-W cannot "lock in" and capture a signal, which of course creates a communication problem or the temperature is outside the manufacturer's specs for proper operation. For example, the XBee radio is rated to -40C, which is pretty cold. But the MAX232 chip that Ren-W uses comes in multiple kinds, and the operating temperature specifications can vary widely. If the MAX232 ceases to function, communication to the controller cannot occur.

	:Likewise, it's possible that components on the controller itself may cease to function when the environment is outside the operating temperatures of the components. The chips that control RS-485 communication, or the H11AA1 optocoupler, or perhaps even a PIC might not like very cold temperatures.		:Likewise, it's possible that components on the controller itself may cease to function when the environment is outside the operating temperatures of the components. The chips that control RS-485 communication, or the H11AA1 optocoupler, or perhaps even a PIC might not like very cold temperatures.

Ravinglunatic at 04:59, 29 January 2011

2011-01-29T04:59:06Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 04:59, 29 January 2011
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	*[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8102 Ren-W Topic on the DIYC Forums]		*[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8102 Ren-W Topic on the DIYC Forums]

	~~[[Category:Renard]]~~
	[[Category:Ren-W]]		[[Category:Ren-W]]
			[[Category:DIYC Index]]

Jrd: Added forum link

2010-12-14T02:47:18Z

Added forum link

← Older revision		Revision as of 02:47, 14 December 2010
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	*[[Ren-W Antenna Info]]		*[[Ren-W Antenna Info]]
	*[[Ren-W Controller Heater]]		*[[Ren-W Controller Heater]]
			*[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8102 Ren-W Topic on the DIYC Forums]

	[[Category:Renard]]		[[Category:Renard]]
	[[Category:Ren-W]]		[[Category:Ren-W]]

Dirknerkle at 23:30, 26 November 2010

2010-11-26T23:30:00Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 23:30, 26 November 2010
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	::::[[File:Heater-4.JPG \| 350px]] [[File:Heater-4b.JPG \| 350px]]		::::[[File:Heater-4.JPG \| 350px]] [[File:Heater-4b.JPG \| 350px]]

	::'''Step 5''' - Screw in the bulb, connect a piece of SPT-1 wire (without a plug attached) using either wire nuts or solder to the candelabra socket's leads, covering with shrink-wrap. The length of the wire you need is dependent on where you intend to plug the bulb into A/C power. In this example, an A/C pirate plug was attached to the connecting wire between the two 12-channels halves of the SS24 board. If you choose to plug the heater into an external plug, then ~~fish the~~ SPT wire out of one of the holes in the bottom of the case.		::'''Step 5''' - Screw in the bulb, connect a piece of SPT-1 wire (without a plug attached) using either wire nuts or solder to the candelabra socket's leads, covering with shrink-wrap. The length of the wire you need is dependent on where you intend to plug the bulb into A/C power. In this example, an A/C pirate plug was attached to the connecting wire between the two 12-channels halves of the SS24 board. If you choose to plug the heater into an external plug outside the controller, then use a longer piece of SPT wire and fish it out of one of the holes in the bottom of the case.

	::::[[File:Heater-5.JPG \| 400px]]		::::[[File:Heater-5.JPG \| 400px]]

	::'''Step 6''' - Apply the plug to the SPT-1 wire, and plug it in.		::'''Step 6''' - Apply the plug to the SPT wire, and plug it in.

	::::[[File:Heater-6.JPG \| 350px]] [[File:Heater-7.JPG \| 350px]]		::::[[File:Heater-6.JPG \| 350px]] [[File:Heater-7.JPG \| 350px]]

Dirknerkle at 23:27, 26 November 2010

2010-11-26T23:27:35Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 23:27, 26 November 2010
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	:'''Parts and Tools Needed'''		:'''Parts and Tools Needed'''
	::* Candelabra socket with a mounting bracket. Example: Servalite CS-10014-52U. (Lowe's, about $2.75). This socket does not have any electrical connection to the mounting bracket.		::* Candelabra socket with a mounting bracket. Example: Servalite CS-10014-52U or CS-10014-5U. (Lowe's SKU# 75605 or SKU# 75602, about $2.50). This socket does not have any electrical connection to the mounting bracket.
	::* 15watt, 120vac tubular light bulb with candelabra mount. (Lowe's, 2 for approx $3.00) These are quite small, about 2" long and 1/2 inch across.		::* 15watt, 120vac tubular light bulb with candelabra mount. Example: Feit electric # BP15T4C/2. (Lowe's SKU# 111424, 2 for approx $4.00) These are quite small, about 2" long and 1/2 inch across.
	::* Length of SPT-1 or SPT-2 cord		::* Length of SPT-1 or SPT-2 cord - see below for the length you need.
	::* A/C plug		::* A/C plug
	::* Zip ties, possibly heat shrink tubing or wire nuts		::* Zip ties, possibly heat shrink tubing or wire nuts
	::* 1/4-20 x 3/4" long screw, nut and 3 appropriately sized washers (Other screw sizes are okay, just keep them short so they don't contact anything when the cover is closed.)		::* 1/4-20 x 1/2" or similarly long screw, nut and 3 appropriately sized washers (Other screw sizes are okay such as 8-32 x 1/2", just keep them short so they don't contact anything when the cover is closed.)
	::* TOOLS: drill, screwdriver, pliers		::* TOOLS: drill, screwdriver, pliers

Dirknerkle at 19:57, 26 November 2010

2010-11-26T19:57:39Z

Dirknerkle: /* Ren-W Controller Heater */

2010-11-26T19:49:28Z

Ren-W Controller Heater

← Older revision		Revision as of 19:49, 26 November 2010
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	~~== Ren-W Controller Heater ==~~		:In some very cold climates (below freezing), you may encounter a problem whereby a controller may function fine above freezing, but when the temperature drops below freezing, or even below zero, the controller ceases to respond. The problem is that either the Ren-W cannot "lock in" and capture a signal, which of course creates a communication problem or the temperature is outside the manufacturer's specs for proper operation. For example, the XBee radio is rated to -40C, which is pretty cold. But the MAX232 chip that Ren-W uses comes in multiple kinds, and the operating temperature specifications can vary widely. If the MAX232 ceases to function, communication to the controller cannot occur.

	:In some very cold ~~situations~~ (below freezing), you may encounter a problem whereby a controller may function fine above freezing, but when the temperature drops below freezing, or even below zero, the controller ceases to respond. The problem is that either the Ren-W cannot "lock in" and capture a signal, which of course creates a communication problem or the temperature is outside the manufacturer's specs for proper operation. For example, the XBee radio is rated to -40C, which is pretty cold. But the MAX232 chip that Ren-W uses comes in multiple kinds, and the operating temperature specifications can vary widely. If the MAX232 ceases to function, communication to the controller cannot occur.

	:Likewise, it's possible that components on the controller itself may cease to function when the environment is outside the operating temperatures of the components. The chips that control RS-485 communication, or the H11AA1 optocoupler, or perhaps even a PIC might not like very cold temperatures.		:Likewise, it's possible that components on the controller itself may cease to function when the environment is outside the operating temperatures of the components. The chips that control RS-485 communication, or the H11AA1 optocoupler, or perhaps even a PIC might not like very cold temperatures.
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	*[[Ren-W Antenna Info]]		*[[Ren-W Antenna Info]]
	*[[Ren-W Controller Heater]]		*[[Ren-W Controller Heater]]

			[[Category:Renard]]
			[[Category:Ren-W]]

Dirknerkle: /* Ren-W Controller Heater */

2010-11-26T19:48:15Z

Ren-W Controller Heater

← Older revision		Revision as of 19:48, 26 November 2010
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	::* The candelabra base is also used for common 7watt night-lights, and you may find that these inexpensive lights are better for your installation. Of course, they're slighly larger (about 7/8" across) but their lower power may provide just enough heat. Night lights are also available in 4watt versions, too.		::* The candelabra base is also used for common 7watt night-lights, and you may find that these inexpensive lights are better for your installation. Of course, they're slighly larger (about 7/8" across) but their lower power may provide just enough heat. Night lights are also available in 4watt versions, too.

			'''Additional Ren-W Links'''
			*[[Renard Wireless Converter]]
			*[[Ren-W BOM and Construction]]
			*[[Ren-W Configuration Concepts]]
			*[[Ren-W XBee Radio Configuration]]
			*[[Ren-W Questions/Answers]]
			*[[Ren-W Troubleshooting]]
			*[[Ren-W Antenna Info]]
			*[[Ren-W Controller Heater]]

Dirknerkle: /* Ren-W Controller Heater */

2010-11-26T19:44:20Z

Ren-W Controller Heater

← Older revision		Revision as of 19:44, 26 November 2010
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	::::[[File:Heater-4.JPG \| 350px]] [[File:Heater-4b.JPG \| 350px]]		::::[[File:Heater-4.JPG \| 350px]] [[File:Heater-4b.JPG \| 350px]]

	:: Step 5 - Screw in the bulb, connect a piece of SPT-1 wire (without a plug attached) using either wire nuts or solder to the candelabra socket's leads, covering with shrink-wrap. The length of the wire you need is dependent on where you intend to plug the bulb into A/C power. In this example, a A/C pirate plug was attached to the connecting wire between the two 12-channels halves of the SS24 board. If you choose to plug the heater into an external plug, then fish the SPT wire out of one of the holes in the bottom of the case.		:: Step 5 - Screw in the bulb, connect a piece of SPT-1 wire (without a plug attached) using either wire nuts or solder to the candelabra socket's leads, covering with shrink-wrap. The length of the wire you need is dependent on where you intend to plug the bulb into A/C power. In this example, an A/C pirate plug was attached to the connecting wire between the two 12-channels halves of the SS24 board. If you choose to plug the heater into an external plug, then fish the SPT wire out of one of the holes in the bottom of the case.

	::::[[File:Heater-5.JPG \| 400px]]		::::[[File:Heater-5.JPG \| 400px]]

← Older revision		Revision as of 19:57, 26 November 2010
Line 1:		Line 1:

	:In some very cold climates (below freezing), you may encounter a problem whereby a controller may function fine above freezing, but when the temperature drops below freezing, or even below zero, the controller ceases to respond. The problem is that either the Ren-W cannot "lock in" and capture a signal, which of course creates a communication problem or the temperature is outside the manufacturer's specs for proper operation. For example, the XBee radio is rated to -40C, which is pretty cold. But the MAX232 chip that Ren-W uses comes in multiple kinds, and the operating temperature specifications can vary widely. If the MAX232 ceases to function, communication to the controller cannot occur.		:In some very cold climates (below freezing), you may encounter a problem whereby a controller may function fine above freezing, but when the temperature drops below freezing, or even below zero, the controller ceases to respond. The problem is that either the Ren-W cannot "lock in" and capture a signal, which of course creates a communication problem or the temperature is outside the manufacturer's specs for proper operation. For example, the XBee radio is rated to -40C, which is pretty cold. But the MAX232 chip that Ren-W uses comes in multiple kinds, and the operating temperature specifications can vary widely. If the MAX232 ceases to function, communication to the controller cannot occur.

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	:'''Instructions'''		:'''Instructions'''
	::Step 1 - Flatten the bracket on the candelabra socket with a pliers. Leave it slightly bent so that when mounted, the bulb will be raised away from the case.		::'''Step 1''' - Flatten the bracket on the candelabra socket with a pliers. Leave it slightly bent so that when mounted, the bulb will be raised away from the case.

	::::[[File:Heater-1.JPG \| 350px]] [[File:Heater-2.JPG \| 350px]]		::::[[File:Heater-1.JPG \| 350px]] [[File:Heater-2.JPG \| 350px]]

	::Step 2 - Position the bulb in such place so that the bulb will provide the most benefit to the most components, yet away from any wiring. You want the bulb to be in free air and not physically touching anything. Mark the drill hole.		::'''Step 2''' - Position the bulb in such place so that the bulb will provide the most benefit to the most components, yet away from any wiring. You want the bulb to be in free air and not physically touching anything. Mark the drill hole.

	::::[[File:Heater-3.JPG \| 400px]]		::::[[File:Heater-3.JPG \| 400px]]

	::Step 3 - Drill a hole the appropriate size for the screw chosen.		::'''Step 3''' - Drill a hole the appropriate size for the screw chosen.

	::Step 4 - Put a washer on the screw and insert the screw through the hole. Place another washer over the screw on the inside, then apply the candelabra bracket, followed by another washer and finally the nut. Tighten very snugly.		::'''Step 4''' - Put a washer on the screw and insert the screw through the hole. Place another washer over the screw on the inside, then apply the candelabra bracket, followed by another washer and finally the nut. Tighten very snugly.

	::::[[File:Heater-4.JPG \| 350px]] [[File:Heater-4b.JPG \| 350px]]		::::[[File:Heater-4.JPG \| 350px]] [[File:Heater-4b.JPG \| 350px]]

	:: Step 5 - Screw in the bulb, connect a piece of SPT-1 wire (without a plug attached) using either wire nuts or solder to the candelabra socket's leads, covering with shrink-wrap. The length of the wire you need is dependent on where you intend to plug the bulb into A/C power. In this example, an A/C pirate plug was attached to the connecting wire between the two 12-channels halves of the SS24 board. If you choose to plug the heater into an external plug, then fish the SPT wire out of one of the holes in the bottom of the case.		::'''Step 5''' - Screw in the bulb, connect a piece of SPT-1 wire (without a plug attached) using either wire nuts or solder to the candelabra socket's leads, covering with shrink-wrap. The length of the wire you need is dependent on where you intend to plug the bulb into A/C power. In this example, an A/C pirate plug was attached to the connecting wire between the two 12-channels halves of the SS24 board. If you choose to plug the heater into an external plug, then fish the SPT wire out of one of the holes in the bottom of the case.

	::::[[File:Heater-5.JPG \| 400px]]		::::[[File:Heater-5.JPG \| 400px]]

	:: Step 6 - Apply the plug to the SPT-1 wire, and plug it in.		::'''Step 6''' - Apply the plug to the SPT-1 wire, and plug it in.

	::::[[File:Heater-6.JPG \| 350px]] [[File:Heater-7.JPG \| 350px]]		::::[[File:Heater-6.JPG \| 350px]] [[File:Heater-7.JPG \| 350px]]
Line 43:		Line 42:

	::* The candelabra base is also used for common 7watt night-lights, and you may find that these inexpensive lights are better for your installation. Of course, they're slighly larger (about 7/8" across) but their lower power may provide just enough heat. Night lights are also available in 4watt versions, too.		::* The candelabra base is also used for common 7watt night-lights, and you may find that these inexpensive lights are better for your installation. Of course, they're slighly larger (about 7/8" across) but their lower power may provide just enough heat. Night lights are also available in 4watt versions, too.

			::* Additional benefit: the availability of 15watts of light at the controller has also proven quite handy in the event you need to service the controller and/or display at night, replug in cables, etc.


	'''Additional Ren-W Links'''		'''Additional Ren-W Links'''