FM02 Gallery: Difference between revisions
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<gallery caption="Coop Boards (mostly assembled)" widths="150px" heights="150px" perrow="4"> | <gallery caption="Coop Boards (mostly assembled)" widths="150px" heights="150px" perrow="4"> | ||
Image:FM02_OregonLights.jpg|[[The enclosure is from Mouser P/N 563-NBF-32006. It's a water tight case, very overkill, but it was a handy size and I already had an order going so shipping wan't an issue. It's made by Bud Enclosures and cost $12.50. It comes with tabs that screw into the back and make for handy mounting. The plastic is thick but pliable, very easy to drill and work with.]] | Image:FM02_OregonLights.jpg|[[The enclosure is from Mouser P/N 563-NBF-32006. It's a water tight case, very overkill, but it was a handy size and I already had an order going so shipping wan't an issue. It's made by Bud Enclosures and cost $12.50. It comes with tabs that screw into the back and make for handy mounting. The plastic is thick but pliable, very easy to drill and work with.The power is supplied via a wall wart, goes in through a strain relief and into toggle switch and power indicating LED I got at Radio Shack. The power then goes into a LM317 regulator I bought in the DIYC group buy. For additional power filtering I added two 2200 uF capacitors to the output of the LM317 and routed it into the transmitter. The audio input is provided off a headphone jack from the computer line out. A stereo jack is mounted in the case and routed into the transmitter so a standard stereo cable can be used off the computer. I used a splitter off the computer audio line out to feed two stereo cables, one to the transmitter and the other to some speakers. I put a snap on ferrite bead (mouser P/N 810-ZCAT1730-0730A $1.20) onto the audio cable for good measure, I haven't had any noise issues, but also haven't tested without the bead.]] | ||
Image:SSROZ 2.5a (small).jpg|[[4_Channel_SSROZ_Assembly_Instructions | SSR (solid state relay)]] | Image:SSROZ 2.5a (small).jpg|[[4_Channel_SSROZ_Assembly_Instructions | SSR (solid state relay)]] | ||
Revision as of 14:41, 29 December 2011
Pictures of Various Coop Boards (mostly assembled)
- Coop Boards (mostly assembled)
-
![[[The enclosure is from Mouser P/N 563-NBF-32006. It's a water tight case, very overkill, but it was a handy size and I already had an order going so shipping wan't an issue. It's made by Bud Enclosures and cost $12.50. It comes with tabs that screw into the back and make for handy mounting. The plastic is thick but pliable, very easy to drill and work with.The power is supplied via a wall wart, goes in through a strain relief and into toggle switch and power indicating LED I got at Radio Shack. The power then goes into a LM317 regulator I bought in the DIYC group buy. For additional power filtering I added two 2200 uF capacitors to the output of the LM317 and routed it into the transmitter. The audio input is provided off a headphone jack from the computer line out. A stereo jack is mounted in the case and routed into the transmitter so a standard stereo cable can be used off the computer. I used a splitter off the computer audio line out to feed two stereo cables, one to the transmitter and the other to some speakers. I put a snap on ferrite bead (mouser P/N 810-ZCAT1730-0730A $1.20) onto the audio cable for good measure, I haven't had any noise issues, but also haven't tested without the bead.]]](/wiki/images/thumb/7/73/FM02_OregonLights.jpg/150px-FM02_OregonLights.jpg)
[[The enclosure is from Mouser P/N 563-NBF-32006. It's a water tight case, very overkill, but it was a handy size and I already had an order going so shipping wan't an issue. It's made by Bud Enclosures and cost $12.50. It comes with tabs that screw into the back and make for handy mounting. The plastic is thick but pliable, very easy to drill and work with.The power is supplied via a wall wart, goes in through a strain relief and into toggle switch and power indicating LED I got at Radio Shack. The power then goes into a LM317 regulator I bought in the DIYC group buy. For additional power filtering I added two 2200 uF capacitors to the output of the LM317 and routed it into the transmitter. The audio input is provided off a headphone jack from the computer line out. A stereo jack is mounted in the case and routed into the transmitter so a standard stereo cable can be used off the computer. I used a splitter off the computer audio line out to feed two stereo cables, one to the transmitter and the other to some speakers. I put a snap on ferrite bead (mouser P/N 810-ZCAT1730-0730A $1.20) onto the audio cable for good measure, I haven't had any noise issues, but also haven't tested without the bead.]]
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![[[The enclosure is from Mouser P/N 563-NBF-32006. It's a water tight case, very overkill, but it was a handy size and I already had an order going so shipping wan't an issue. It's made by Bud Enclosures and cost $12.50. It comes with tabs that screw into the back and make for handy mounting. The plastic is thick but pliable, very easy to drill and work with.The power is supplied via a wall wart, goes in through a strain relief and into toggle switch and power indicating LED I got at Radio Shack. The power then goes into a LM317 regulator I bought in the DIYC group buy. For additional power filtering I added two 2200 uF capacitors to the output of the LM317 and routed it into the transmitter. The audio input is provided off a headphone jack from the computer line out. A stereo jack is mounted in the case and routed into the transmitter so a standard stereo cable can be used off the computer. I used a splitter off the computer audio line out to feed two stereo cables, one to the transmitter and the other to some speakers. I put a snap on ferrite bead (mouser P/N 810-ZCAT1730-0730A $1.20) onto the audio cable for good measure, I haven't had any noise issues, but also haven't tested without the bead.]]](/wiki/index.php?title=File:FM02_OregonLights.jpg)
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