FM02 Gallery: Difference between revisions

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Image:Fm02_underdog.jpg|By Underdog. <p>I've taken an old CD player & gutted it, desoldered the main connection bar and then pulled out all but 2 pins, the ground and the +12V. That makes it easier to not have to cut into the PSU harness and maintain the stock plug! I added a switch and a line input. I also added a 24V 2200uf cap to the input of computer power supply. The last real mod was I had the front panel on risers off the front, but after clicking around on the front buttons some I felt like it was bending the board, so the "KISS" method best solution was to remove the risers, take an old mouse pad, cut out a piece of the neoprene-like rubber and the place it behind the board to give more support. All the case modifications were done with a Dremel tool with a Roto-Zip cutting tool, easy, and fairly safe. The next step will be routing the RG58 antenna to the back of the box.</p>
Image:Fm02_underdog.jpg|By Underdog. <p>I've taken an old CD player & gutted it, desoldered the main connection bar and then pulled out all but 2 pins, the ground and the +12V. That makes it easier to not have to cut into the PSU harness and maintain the stock plug! I added a switch and a line input. I also added a 24V 2200uf cap to the input of computer power supply. The last real mod was I had the front panel on risers off the front, but after clicking around on the front buttons some I felt like it was bending the board, so the "KISS" method best solution was to remove the risers, take an old mouse pad, cut out a piece of the neoprene-like rubber and the place it behind the board to give more support. All the case modifications were done with a Dremel tool with a Roto-Zip cutting tool, easy, and fairly safe. The next step will be routing the RG58 antenna to the back of the box.</p>


Image: Fm02_underdog_2.jpg| By Underdog. Additional image to the left
Image: Fm02_underdog_2.jpg| By Underdog. <p> Additional image to the left.</p>


Image: Fm02_captkirk.JPG| By CaptKirk.  Mounted in an Aluminum case
Image: Fm02_captkirk.JPG| By CaptKirk.  Mounted in an Aluminum case


</gallery>
</gallery>

Revision as of 16:15, 29 December 2011

Pictures of Various FM02 Installations

  • FM02 Installations. Click on the pictures to enlarge. Be sure to scroll down the page.
  • By OregonLights. Case: Mouser P/N 563-NBF-32006. The plastic is very easy to drill and work with. Wall wart power, entrance via a strain relief to the toggle switch & power indicating LED. The power then goes into a LM317 regulator I bought in the DIYC group buy. For additional power filtering I added two 2200 uF capacitors to the output of the LM317 and routed it into the transmitter. The audio input is provided off a headphone jack from the computer line out. A stereo jack is mounted in the case and routed into the transmitter so a standard stereo cable can be used off the computer. I put a snap on ferrite bead (mouser P/N 810-ZCAT1730-0730A $1.20) onto the audio cable .The transmitter board in the cover is attached using screws through the case lid and nylon spacers I got from Ace Hardware. The case is thick enough I had to put a relief in for some components to make the frequency display sit flush with the outside of the case. The boards on the inside of the case are mounted to a thin plexiglass panel I made from a larger piece I got from Lowes. I just scored it and snapped to fit. It mounts with two screws into the case body. The boards are attached to the plexiglass plate using screws and nylon spacers and some larger nuts.
    By OregonLights.

    Case: Mouser P/N 563-NBF-32006. The plastic is very easy to drill and work with. Wall wart power, entrance via a strain relief to the toggle switch & power indicating LED. The power then goes into a LM317 regulator I bought in the DIYC group buy. For additional power filtering I added two 2200 uF capacitors to the output of the LM317 and routed it into the transmitter. The audio input is provided off a headphone jack from the computer line out. A stereo jack is mounted in the case and routed into the transmitter so a standard stereo cable can be used off the computer. I put a snap on ferrite bead (mouser P/N 810-ZCAT1730-0730A $1.20) onto the audio cable .The transmitter board in the cover is attached using screws through the case lid and nylon spacers I got from Ace Hardware. The case is thick enough I had to put a relief in for some components to make the frequency display sit flush with the outside of the case. The boards on the inside of the case are mounted to a thin plexiglass panel I made from a larger piece I got from Lowes. I just scored it and snapped to fit. It mounts with two screws into the case body. The boards are attached to the plexiglass plate using screws and nylon spacers and some larger nuts.

  • By OregonLights. Mounted view of the FM02 to the left.
    By OregonLights.

    Mounted view of the FM02 to the left.

  • By Underdog. I've taken an old CD player & gutted it, desoldered the main connection bar and then pulled out all but 2 pins, the ground and the +12V. That makes it easier to not have to cut into the PSU harness and maintain the stock plug! I added a switch and a line input. I also added a 24V 2200uf cap to the input of computer power supply. The last real mod was I had the front panel on risers off the front, but after clicking around on the front buttons some I felt like it was bending the board, so the "KISS" method best solution was to remove the risers, take an old mouse pad, cut out a piece of the neoprene-like rubber and the place it behind the board to give more support. All the case modifications were done with a Dremel tool with a Roto-Zip cutting tool, easy, and fairly safe. The next step will be routing the RG58 antenna to the back of the box.
    By Underdog.

    I've taken an old CD player & gutted it, desoldered the main connection bar and then pulled out all but 2 pins, the ground and the +12V. That makes it easier to not have to cut into the PSU harness and maintain the stock plug! I added a switch and a line input. I also added a 24V 2200uf cap to the input of computer power supply. The last real mod was I had the front panel on risers off the front, but after clicking around on the front buttons some I felt like it was bending the board, so the "KISS" method best solution was to remove the risers, take an old mouse pad, cut out a piece of the neoprene-like rubber and the place it behind the board to give more support. All the case modifications were done with a Dremel tool with a Roto-Zip cutting tool, easy, and fairly safe. The next step will be routing the RG58 antenna to the back of the box.

  • By Underdog. Additional image to the left.
    By Underdog.

    Additional image to the left.

  • By CaptKirk. Mounted in an Aluminum case

    By CaptKirk. Mounted in an Aluminum case

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