FM02 Gallery

Pictures of Various FM02 Installations

• FM02 Installations. Click on the pictures to enlarge. Be sure to scroll down the page.
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  By OregonLights.

  Case: Mouser P/N 563-NBF-32006. The plastic is very easy to drill and work with. Wall wart power, entrance via a strain relief to the toggle switch & power indicating LED. The power then goes into a LM317 regulator I bought in the DIYC group buy. For additional power filtering I added two 2200 uF capacitors to the output of the LM317 and routed it into the transmitter. The audio input is provided off a headphone jack from the computer line out. A stereo jack is mounted in the case and routed into the transmitter so a standard stereo cable can be used off the computer. I put a snap on ferrite bead (mouser P/N 810-ZCAT1730-0730A $1.20) onto the audio cable .The transmitter board in the cover is attached using screws through the case lid and nylon spacers I got from Ace Hardware. The case is thick enough I had to put a relief in for some components to make the frequency display sit flush with the outside of the case. The boards on the inside of the case are mounted to a thin plexiglass panel I made from a larger piece I got from Lowes. I just scored it and snapped to fit. It mounts with two screws into the case body. The boards are attached to the plexiglass plate using screws and nylon spacers and some larger nuts.

• 
  By OregonLights.

  Mounted view of the FM02 to the left.

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  By Underdog.

  I've taken an old CD player & gutted it, desoldered the main connection bar and then pulled out all but 2 pins, the ground and the +12V. That makes it easier to not have to cut into the PSU harness and maintain the stock plug! I added a switch and a line input. I also added a 24V 2200uf cap to the input of computer power supply. The last real mod was I had the front panel on risers off the front, but after clicking around on the front buttons some I felt like it was bending the board, so the "KISS" method best solution was to remove the risers, take an old mouse pad, cut out a piece of the neoprene-like rubber and the place it behind the board to give more support. All the case modifications were done with a Dremel tool with a Roto-Zip cutting tool, easy, and fairly safe. The next step will be routing the RG58 antenna to the back of the box.

• 
  By Underdog.

  Additional image to the left.

• 
  By CaptKirk.

  Mounted in an Aluminum case

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  By chelmuth.

  I took an old Cable Modem I had laying around gutted it and put my FM-02 in it.. Just widened a few LED holes for the buttons and cut a rectangle for the display.. On the back I just had to square off a round hole and make a new little round hole for the Antenna jack.. The 3.5mm jack fit nice and tight in one of the original holes. I made mounting stand-off's by cutting the heads off of zipties and glueing them to the case. For the front display I used some extra pieces of plastic and wedged the front in there then glued the pieces of plastic.

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  By chelmuth.

  Additional image to the left.

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  By smartalec.

  i found a old non working wireless hub in the shed so i ripped out it's guts to make a fancy Transmitter Case.

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  By RobDude30.

  I used a small 120VAC to 12VDC medical grade power supply from TRC Electronics that seems to be well regulated and very quiet. Everything was a very tight fit in the enclosure I chose, but it worked.

• 
  By RobDude30.

  Additional image to the left.

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  By rkhanso.

  I have one of the Vastelec FM-02 transmitters and wanted to permanently mount it in a metal electrical box for shielding. It's not so easy to mount the transmitter board flush with the box and have the holes line up for the power, antenna and audio and make it still look OK.

• 
  By rkhanso.

  Additional image to the left.

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  By klanger. (NOTE: installion of the pira RDS unit)

  I used this enclosure from Jaycar here in Aus if I remember correctly. I also fitted the RDS board in there as well.