100W RGB LED driver board for flood lights (WS2811)

That's strange--I didn't even realize that the 100W versions were being released, so I just went with the 50W version. Is there a place that we can follow to see exactly what's available (other than catching random threads)?
 
bshep said:
pic of my retrofit.

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Click to expand...

What housing is that?
 
Would a thermistor make it a little safer? What would be a good value (part code?) for approximately "don't be on for more than a few minutes" and "don't be on for more than a few seconds"?
 
As we get into higher and higher outputs, wouldn't it be better to start looking at the "piggy back" enclosures? By putting the LED in the reflector side of the enclosure and then the electronics in the piggyback unit, you provide a heat separation. By the time the heat goes from the LED to the electronics, it will have cooled off (some) via the material the enclosures are made of. (Usually ribbed/finned metal enclosures.)

I am assuming (love that word) that the majority of the heat is developed at the LED. Even if the board is creating heat, the separation would still be good as the two primary parts will not pass as much heat between themselves as when they are in the same enclosure.

Just a thought.
 
algerdes said:
As we get into higher and higher outputs, wouldn't it be better to start looking at the "piggy back" enclosures? By putting the LED in the reflector side of the enclosure and then the electronics in the piggyback unit, you provide a heat separation. By the time the heat goes from the LED to the electronics, it will have cooled off (some) via the material the enclosures are made of. (Usually ribbed/finned metal enclosures.)

I am assuming (love that word) that the majority of the heat is developed at the LED. Even if the board is creating heat, the separation would still be good as the two primary parts will not pass as much heat between themselves as when they are in the same enclosure.

Just a thought.
Click to expand...

my plan, as soon as i get a link to the exact enclosure in post #93 by bshep, is to fix the enclosure.
I have worked with that exact enclosure in a 20w version before. the plate that is left on the back in the photo comes off.
floodlight.JPG
I will then mill off what the vendor calls the "enhanced heat sink fins" and thermally attach and install my active cooling there.
I will be using a thin piece of the inefficient casts aluminum case in the middle between the led/board side and the cooling side, but with the cooling i'm installing the loss will not be relevant.
This will also maintain a waterproof enclosure once it is sealed back up, with the cooling outside on the back :biggrin:
I also plan to install a 12v relay that is triggered by the input circuit for my fan (fan is 12v) that will be setup to cut out the 36v power to the led board, should the 12v power for cooling fail.

just my hair brained idea.:cool2:
 
My 20w the glass gets hot. You can touch it so less than 150 degrees. But I ran them in the summer around 80 degrees outside for 3 days non stop. No failures. I plan to only use them in the show so here in Minnesota temp won't be a problem. The 100w I'm planning to slip in a 12v Peltier and a buck converter. We'll see how that goes.

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I got one of the fans that suppose to be IP68 for use with my 100W board in a 20W enclosure.
I kept it submerged in water for several minutes (running and stopped) and no problems. Next, I will put it outside and let it run for a week or two to see how it handles elements. If all goes well, I will attach it to 20W enclosure and let it run every night. Will report in a month or two.
 
I signed up for the original run and never received any notice that they were available. The green shipped notices stop right before my name! Are there any left?
 
It's been 2 weeks since I put my fan was outside. It's been running in rain, sun, snow, and freezing temperatures, and all is good.
I guess it's safe to say that it really is IP68. Will order few more.
 
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