All about Light Arches (PVC pipe, conduit, light choices, winding the lights)

[tlorek]

Tom - didn't catch this earlier...I don't think there'd be any problem with the screw couplers. Is it so you can break them down in two pieces? If so, I would probably use some teflon tape on the threads - they have a tendency to "seize" if left for a while, and become a little difficult to unscrew, especially trying to handle it with a bunch of lights on it, and not much room for slip-joints. The tape won't hurt anything, should keep it from seizing, and it's just what I would do. YMMV...

Can you explain the parachute chord? I'm trying to find some ways to support the middle, since I'm 15' also, and we get a lot of wind, sometimes, with the snow...

Thx,

R

Roger,

Thanks for the Teflon tape tip. Yes, it's to help with storage.

Regarding the parachute cord, I'm going to wrap a couple of loops of it around the top center of the arch and then run it out 4-5 feet on the front and back of the arch and then stake it down. Bought a 300' spool on ebay. I think I read about this tip on PC.

 

[GS]

para cord -

http://www.afoi.com/

Glenn

 

[GS]

How did you support the center? I'll probably need to, but I'm not sure how. I'll have to worry about snow and ice, and probably wind, as well...

I failed to mention that a quick coat of Fusion paint on the PVC would probably help the UV. I was almost done with mine before I realized that.

R

When you build your arches leave 1.5" of pvc bare at the middle connection of the 2 pvc. Paint 1" sch 40 pvc black and add a modified tee connector (cut the top of the tee connector to make a saddle and trim the left and right sides flush to make the saddle smaller)
Set up your arch, drive rebar in the center point on the ground. Cut a hole in a small piece of plywood and place through the rebar (this will keep the pvc support from sinking). Measure the arch center point to ground and cut the black pvc to size. Use guy wire or para cord a tent stakes to support from side to side motion. This setup will protect from heavy wind, ice and snow.

 

[IdunBenhad]

Hi:
Just a quickie: I think I mentioned this before in another thread.

I have seen plumbers start their car/truck, use a hose attached to the exhaust pipe and stick the PVC into that, then bend the PVC. This heats it from the inside and if one were to use a jig, the pipe(s) could be be bent uniformly.

Just a thought. (The sun method is cheaper--don't have to pay for the gas!)

Idun

 

[ppohlman]

I also just dangle the plugs below the arch. Two years ago I put all the time into the arches to make the lights nice with hidden plugs, only to re-do them the next year in LEDs. Guess what..... its dark out and you can't see the dangling plugs unless your right on top of the arches.

The reason I hid my plugs was for viewing during the day. I like the clean look when the lights aren’t on and it’s still light outside.

Since we're talking plugs - I have been planning hard-wiring all of my strings, straight into the SSR's.

I hard-wired mine to the SSRs last year. I didn’t have any problems.

 

[51fordf2]

I hard-wired mine to the SSRs last year. I didn’t have any problems.

Thanks!

Any thoughts on using the glue-on screw couplers? I've heard both good and bad. I *do* like the idea of the additional connectors at the end for strength.

Tom - at first I figured you meant two couplers, one side with male threads, the other with female threads, so the two halves of the arch would screw together. Is that what you meant? I stopped in today to buy a couple couplers, but then thought about using unions, instead. I need them to take my window frames apart. I like the idea of unions better than the threaded couplers, because the threaded couplers have to be unscrewed, turning the entire half, whereas the unions are made for joining two pieces that can't be turned, and would be a LOT easier. A buck or two more, I would guess, but MUCH more convenient. That's what I ended up getting...

I have seen plumbers start their car/truck, use a hose attached to the exhaust pipe and stick the PVC into that, then bend the PVC. This heats it from the inside and if one were to use a jig, the pipe(s) could be be bent uniformly.

Wonder if you could use the same technique with a heat gun? I like it, because heating from the inside, you could do it even if you have the lights in place, maybe...

R

 

[Wayne J]

The reason I hid my plugs was for viewing during the day. I like the clean look when the lights aren’t on and it’s still light outside.

Same reason here.

 

[Pwmcguire]

Frank -

Since we're talking plugs - I have been planning hard-wiring all of my strings, straight into the SSR's. Is there a reason to keep the plugs, other than an extra fuse in the circuit? Maybe flawed, but seems to me that the fuse on the SSR would protect everything up stream of the SSR, and the plug fuse might protect the SSR itself, should the string short out. Whats the worst case? A definitive major plus for keeping the plugs?

TIA,

Roger

I'm not sure about the SSR on something like a renard 64. I thought that all of the other renard series needs fuses at the end of the plug to protect the board. The board has a 15 amp fuse to protect the board from drawing to much amps across the channels.

 

[tlorek]

Tom - at first I figured you meant two couplers, one side with male threads, the other with female threads, so the two halves of the arch would screw together. Is that what you meant? I stopped in today to buy a couple couplers, but then thought about using unions, instead. I need them to take my window frames apart. I like the idea of unions better than the threaded couplers, because the threaded couplers have to be unscrewed, turning the entire half, whereas the unions are made for joining two pieces that can't be turned, and would be a LOT easier. A buck or two more, I would guess, but MUCH more convenient. That's what I ended up getting...

Roger, That's exactly what I'm planning. Was supposed to start today, but had to do some car maintenance instead. Plan is now to start tomorrow. So do you think a coupler will have enough "meat" so it wouldn't slip out? I may have to make a run to Lowes tonight to pick up a couple for some testing...

 

[51fordf2]

Tom - I don't think just the standard couplers would do for arches...big tendency to slip out, unless glued. The threaded would be OK, but I think the union would be best. Mine are glued couplers, but I have ample room to store them fully assembled, and won't be taking them apart. But the window frame is too big for me to store, without taking it apart. However, the couplers would suffice, as the frame will be "captured" inside the existing window, and can't come apart. I'm still using unions, though, for added security.

Roger

 

[tlorek]

Tom - I don't think just the standard couplers would do for arches...big tendency to slip out, unless glued. The threaded would be OK, but I think the union would be best. Mine are glued couplers, but I have ample room to store them fully assembled, and won't be taking them apart. But the window frame is too big for me to store, without taking it apart. However, the couplers would suffice, as the frame will be "captured" inside the existing window, and can't come apart. I'm still using unions, though, for added security.

Roger

OK. I made 1/2 an arch tonight using 1" 200psi white pvc with a coupler glued onto the end. I tend to agree that the other end of a coupler would slip out, which is why I'm going to drill a hole through both and put a bolt and wingnut through to secure 'em. I'll finish the second half tomorrow and see how things turn out.

 

[51fordf2]

Tom- how are you at whittlin'?

I would suggest you whittle a plug about 2 - 3" long, that fits inside the end of the 1", snug, and glue it in (the PVC glue will work great). Then drill your hole for the bolt. That will make it a MUCH more solid joint, as your hole will be fairly close to the end of the 1" and very well might split, otherwise, in the winter cold. Maybe you can find a chunk of dowel that would fit with a little sanding, or something, but needs to be a pretty tight fit. Just a suggestion, but the way I would do it...

R

 

[dadams14]

What I did was to use 18ga hookup wire and ran it on the outside. I cut off the plug and soldered in the wire for an extension and have all the plugs at the bottom. Using the 18 ga wire, it lays right in the lights and it not noticiable at all. You can see them in the pic on this 6 channel section.

I was thinking about doing this also so the diameter of the windings don't change as I go..

One question though , why do we have to use spt18 here... Could'nt we go with a AWG 22 just to the end of the pipe, after all the wires in the lights cannot be more than a 22 gauge size?

Thanks
PS there are so many different ways to do this my head is spinning like the pvc....Geez

 

[IdunBenhad]

Hi:
Another solution for the coupler would be to drill two or three holes in each end and use small screws to hold the coupler to the pipe. Use short screws, just long enough to go through the coupler and into the pipe. That way, if you pass wiring through the pipe, it won't get damaged from the screw tips.

They can be taken apart and stored easily and there is no glue involved.

Idun

 

[51fordf2]

What a great thread!

I did think of something, now that all my arches are done (of course!!), and haven't seen mentioned. I may have missed it, but it still might be worth revisiting, if it was...

I put my 18ga under the lights, taped down to the ends, as described in this thread. I like Wayne's (I think its his) idea, with them OUTSIDE the lights, as that would make it easy to repair. However, I didn't do it like that. Now I am thinking, it would have been VERY smart, if I had put a couple extra wraps of the extension around the PVC, at the end of the light string before running it to the end, in case I ever need to replace a string in the middle - it would allow me a little slack to cut and splice a new string in. I'm sure I'll be able to manage, as I have around a half-loop around, but all in all, I wish I have put a couple loops. Stupid, stupid me!! Of course, if I do have to replace, I can always run just that one extension outside the lights.

Just something to think about.

R

 

[tlorek]

OK, taking into account the numerous suggestions from this thread, I came up with a final design for my 15' long two-piece arches made from 1" 200psi PVC pipe. Attached is a drawing of the joint at the top of the 7.5' long sections.

Some explanations:

First, I insert a 3" dowel rod that is slightly smaller than the ID of the pipe into the end (perhaps .020" smaller) of the first piece.

Then, I drill a hole and use a capscrew and a wingnut to firmly hold the dowel into place.

I then glue a coupler onto the end of the piece.

Set it aside and move on to the second half.

Insert a 3" dowel rod into the second piece and using 2 1" drywall screws, screw into the PVC and into the dowel rod, holding it into place.

Then, push the second piece into the coupler.

Drill a hole through the coupler and second piece of PVC, and then insert another capscrew and wingnut.

The only reason for using the capscrew and wingnut on the first piece of PVC is because that's what I had laying around.

I made 3 arches yesterday using this method. I'll have some photos in the next day or so...still have 3 more to go!

Oh, I'll also be using couplers on the ends to strengthen them as well.

 

[ErnieHorning]

I’ve thought about using a dowel but figured that water would expand it at make it difficult to remove. Though the rain is short up here, it still happens. I remember it rained for a whole week a couple of years ago.

I’ve been looking for something that would be a snug fit but wouldn’t soak in any water. Water seepage and freezing would be an issue either way.

I’m not sure that I would go with a threaded bolt unless you have a warmer place for disassembly. I’d be more likely to drill the hole to allow two wire ties to be used; one that loops to the top and one that loops to the bottom. Snip and it’s off, even at -10˚F.

 

[rstehle]

It might be a bit late in the game, but why not use Grey PVC Conduit? It has a nice long bell on each end and once it is seated, it won't come apart without some real coaxing.............
Also, due to the length of the bell, it makes for nice smooth arches..........

 

[Wayne J]

It might be a bit late in the game, but why not use Grey PVC Conduit? It has a nice long bell on each end and once it is seated, it won't come apart without some real coaxing.............
Also, due to the length of the bell, it makes for nice smooth arches..........

That is what I use, and it's a bear to get apart if it shoved together completely, so I know it won't come apart on it's own.

 

[rice66]

Here is my take on leaping arches. I took the wiki to a different level. Instead of using just one piece of a 10' section of grey electrical pvc (3/4") and using the remaining piece in another project, I (being cheap) developed a swagging tool and put to use my harbor frieght heat shrink gun. I machined a piece of soft steel to the id of the swag, allowed for the length of the swag and machined a guide shaft (3/4") diameter. A general idea can be seen in the attached pic of the tool. I simply heated the end of the pvc section until is was soft and shoved it onto the tool(which I preheated some). I had a moist papertowel ready to cool off the joint while it was still on the form. The diameters of the tool were oversized approx 0.10 to 0.20 inches to allow for shrinkage, which occurs while the joint cools. Using this method, I was able use all but approx 8 inches of a 10 ft section. For snow depth I added approx 6 inches to one cut. The sections using walmarts clear lights (24') were 19" for regular section and 27" for the snow end piece. I wrapped the sections, leaveing the plug on and when assembled, a custom made extension cord will be routed to the outside of the structure and plugged into a 24 channel controller. Three arches just fit down the side of my driveway. The first picture is of one of the arches (8 Channel) without lights. I have shown one wrapped section and one section not wrapped. The ease of wrapping these by hand while watching tv etc is a snap. Storage is also a snap. Replacement of a defective section is a snap.
Rice66