Theashfords
New member
Hi all, I'm building some arches this year, would you recommend using led strips or pixel strings. I have ws2811 pixel strings but I haven't used strips yet as not sure if they would give the same amount of light? Thanks
Strip leds or pixel strings?
- Thread starter Theashfords
- Start date
Strips will put out plenty of light. It's more a function of how you want to attach the pixels to your arches. If you are going to have the pixels inside the arch tubing, then I think strips are the way to go. If you are attaching on the outside, then bullet pixels or nodes are the way to go. Strips are more vulnerable to damage and weather and do well when inside a protecting tube.
I tried both. Bullet pixels make "hotspots" of light inside the tube. (Basically you can see each point of light inside the tube.)
(Found the below image online to help explain bullet nodes inside arch)
Strips however, are much nicer as they point up inside the tube making for a better diffused "lightsaber" effect.
All in all, in my opinion, strips look better and cleaner like a solid tube of light as opposed to more defined "points" of light inside a tube.
Here are mine with strips inside 1" pex: (I guess it really depends on the type of look you want)
(Found the below image online to help explain bullet nodes inside arch)
Strips however, are much nicer as they point up inside the tube making for a better diffused "lightsaber" effect.
All in all, in my opinion, strips look better and cleaner like a solid tube of light as opposed to more defined "points" of light inside a tube.
Here are mine with strips inside 1" pex: (I guess it really depends on the type of look you want)
MartinMueller2003
Supporting Member
I have had reliability issues with the WS2812 strips. I use WS2811 3:1 strips on my closed arches and then have a very nice look
My experience with both:
Using strips, you have 3 LEDs that light up for each pixel instead of just one. This may look okay in your application. But it may not. I personally only use strips where I'm going to mount a diffusor tube over the strip. If you want single points of light, you are forced to using 5V 2811 strips instead of 12V.
Pixels I find to be nearly indestructible. Strips on the other hand, I've broken by simply cussing at it.
Strips MUST be in a silicone sleeve. Don't think the clear rubber coating will make it waterproof -- it wicks water up between the PCB and the rubber via capillary action over a few days. You have to use strips in a silicone sleeve. And while you can buy empty sleeves and put your own strips in, unless it's 2' or shorter, you'd better practice putting toothpaste back in the tube to get proficient at getting the strip into the silicone tube. I know you're going to think "oh, I don't have to have strips in the sleeve -- I can seal a strip myself." I have taken strips and encapsulated them in plastics, waxes, and immersed them in Polyurethane to fill the capillary paths. None of them last long. The only way to make strips withstand outdoors is to buy the strips with a silicone sleeve instead of the encapsulated model. Trust me, I have hundreds of pixels dead at my feet from the experiments.
Bullet pixels however are 12V, single lights, and can be routed in any way you want, not just in the plane of the lights (the pcb makes strips less flexible for turning different than where the lights point).
My three 15' diameter arches have black split loom ziptied to the top of the arches. And the pixels are simply pressed into the split, pointed toward the road. This means I need no diffusors or waterproofing. And as a plus, should a light go dead, I can pull out the bad pixel and replace it with ease. I've had one bad pixel over the years, and not in the arches. PS: Get a sewing thimble to make spreading the loom easier.
Building arches with 12mm bullet pixels is easier and more reliable than with strips.
Using strips, you have 3 LEDs that light up for each pixel instead of just one. This may look okay in your application. But it may not. I personally only use strips where I'm going to mount a diffusor tube over the strip. If you want single points of light, you are forced to using 5V 2811 strips instead of 12V.
Pixels I find to be nearly indestructible. Strips on the other hand, I've broken by simply cussing at it.
Strips MUST be in a silicone sleeve. Don't think the clear rubber coating will make it waterproof -- it wicks water up between the PCB and the rubber via capillary action over a few days. You have to use strips in a silicone sleeve. And while you can buy empty sleeves and put your own strips in, unless it's 2' or shorter, you'd better practice putting toothpaste back in the tube to get proficient at getting the strip into the silicone tube. I know you're going to think "oh, I don't have to have strips in the sleeve -- I can seal a strip myself." I have taken strips and encapsulated them in plastics, waxes, and immersed them in Polyurethane to fill the capillary paths. None of them last long. The only way to make strips withstand outdoors is to buy the strips with a silicone sleeve instead of the encapsulated model. Trust me, I have hundreds of pixels dead at my feet from the experiments.
Bullet pixels however are 12V, single lights, and can be routed in any way you want, not just in the plane of the lights (the pcb makes strips less flexible for turning different than where the lights point).
My three 15' diameter arches have black split loom ziptied to the top of the arches. And the pixels are simply pressed into the split, pointed toward the road. This means I need no diffusors or waterproofing. And as a plus, should a light go dead, I can pull out the bad pixel and replace it with ease. I've had one bad pixel over the years, and not in the arches. PS: Get a sewing thimble to make spreading the loom easier.
Building arches with 12mm bullet pixels is easier and more reliable than with strips.
144 led per meter !
It depends on what you want for a look. We use 30 LEDs in groups of 3 (10 groups per meter) for all 10 arches. It does what we want. Others want a "finer" look and go with the 60. And yes, cost did play in the original decision to purchase, but as we have used them now for 5 years we have come to realize that they are just fine- for us.
I'll need to re-mortgage the house for those!
DrNeutron
Active member
There are so many options for making arches.....I'll throw mine into the hat...
I went and used Ray's Neon pixel: https://www.aliexpress.com/store/pr...ml?spm=2114.12010612.8148356.9.4ea4f5417rsLzB
I had left over white PEX and created the arch using 3/4" PEX and 3D printed a base. I cable tied the Neon tube pixels over top and it looked great. The Neon is flat on bottom so it laid down great on top of the PEX. The PEX illuminates a bit as well so it looks even better. I am at work, but can see if I have some pics to show you what it looked like when I get home.
The wife loved them and is looking for 4 more....
I went and used Ray's Neon pixel: https://www.aliexpress.com/store/pr...ml?spm=2114.12010612.8148356.9.4ea4f5417rsLzB
I had left over white PEX and created the arch using 3/4" PEX and 3D printed a base. I cable tied the Neon tube pixels over top and it looked great. The Neon is flat on bottom so it laid down great on top of the PEX. The PEX illuminates a bit as well so it looks even better. I am at work, but can see if I have some pics to show you what it looked like when I get home.
The wife loved them and is looking for 4 more....
I hope you do have a picture or two of it. It is very interesting.
The description on the sales site claims that it is a 30/10 per meter strip that has been placed in their "milky neon tube".
How do you cut this to different lengths (as you can with the strip by itself)?
Also, since your lights are on the outside of the tube, is there a reason why you used PEX instead of simple PVC?
The description on the sales site claims that it is a 30/10 per meter strip that has been placed in their "milky neon tube".
How do you cut this to different lengths (as you can with the strip by itself)?
Also, since your lights are on the outside of the tube, is there a reason why you used PEX instead of simple PVC?
DrNeutron
Active member
I didn't cut it, I bought it in 2.5 meter length as that is what size I wanted. However, there are end caps on the neon tube so it would not be difficult to remove and take out strip, there is more room inside than the silicon tube normally used.
No other reason that that is what I had on hand. I used PEX to outline my house with dumb RGB (the strip was inside PEX and up all year). Once I renovated and took everything down I had 5M lengths of the stuff. Besides, PEX is easy to bend and wanted to go back to its original coil form even after being up 4 years straight.
30/m is too choppy. Go with 60/m like the pros.
No one said this hobby was inexpensive
Also there is no correct answer to your question .
Depending on the prop you are building , the # of pixels per meter will simply enhance definition.
Remember that this is a hobby so experiment away and use what suits your taste and liking .
Al you already gave your opinion so leave mine alone. I think Matt Johnson is a pro...he does get paid. He recommended 60/m. I tried to be cheap like you and tested 30/m since I already had them and I don't think it looked good so I bought 60/m. If you are satisfied then fine but I'm not and that's my opinion.
Since it's an old thread, maybe the OP can come back and let us know how it all worked out for him.
This is my 1st year with PEX and the 2811 strips, but I've got the tube laying on my living room floor and the effects look great. Really didn't think they'd shine through that cloudy tube so well. I went with the 60/m.
Of course I have no experience with the 30/m. I'm sure they work fine too. I will say that I have no dim spots in the tube (unless I want them there), it's a solid level of brightness from end to end. I'm just saying that b/c if you start with 30/m and you see any dim spots, that'd be the difference. (of course if you get uniform light from end to end then I overpaid Grrrr lol)
This is my 1st year with PEX and the 2811 strips, but I've got the tube laying on my living room floor and the effects look great. Really didn't think they'd shine through that cloudy tube so well. I went with the 60/m.
Of course I have no experience with the 30/m. I'm sure they work fine too. I will say that I have no dim spots in the tube (unless I want them there), it's a solid level of brightness from end to end. I'm just saying that b/c if you start with 30/m and you see any dim spots, that'd be the difference. (of course if you get uniform light from end to end then I overpaid Grrrr lol)
You can simulate 30/m perfectly with your 60/m strip if you want to see what it would look like .
Create a sequence that excludes every other pixel , then sequence the remaining pixels as if each group of 3 pixels sequentially make 1 pixel .
This can help you determine if you would like the look first hand and proceed with investing or not .
Cheers