This is why we fuse everything.....

stallionent said:
I choose circuit breakers over fuses, Some thing like these for 120V (high amp tab) http://www.delcity.net/store/Thermal-Push-Button-Circuit-Breakers/p_539615.h_806434.t_1
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stallionent,

Nice choice - it also carries a DC rating, a plus if you ever change them around. Simple hole, quick connects ... yah ... I'd consider this device if space was at a premium inside a control box.

UL, CUL, CSA, TUV, CE, UL1500/ISO8846 for ignition protection/marine. Doesn't get much better than that - seems to be fairly priced too.

Square D is probably one of the few companies who makes breakers that also have a DC interrupt rating. It is comforting to know I can use a commercially available product in my home and my hobby. The only OTHER REASON I use Sq D is for the Magnetic Trip feature not many people know about. If shorted, a Sq D breaker opens almost instantly. Fastest commercially available breaker (IMHO fastest on the planet) Most other breakers use HEAT to trip so a short can do allot of damage before it ever opens.

Fuses open ... BAM ... done. I would cut into 120v wires with either a fuse or Sq D breaker before anything else. Accidents can happen even to the most seasoned electrician. Chances are my cutters would only show a minor arc vs. some of the gouges I've experienced and seen over the years.

I use the Sq D method for my DC power distribution in a 3R panel outdoors because I have one redundant PSU which supplies many areas of my home. It works.

I use euro style cartridge fuses on a DIN rail device for under 15a protection - control panel stuff I've collected over the years. Ebay - you can find almost anything and if careful - really inexpensive compared to NEW. I don't advocate any source for parts. I have found plenty of good deals on Ebay and on many other sites.

Make it BEAUTIFUL! Make it safe!

Happy Holidays!

Eddie
 
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ukewarrior said:
I'm with you.

I fuse every element of my display.
That is every single light strand, every single candy cane, every single snowfall tube, every AC input to a controller and every single SSR.
I believe in pushing the failure point out to the smallest possible segment of my display.
For one thing it helps keep the display running in the event of a failure and two it provides the maximum amount of safety.
This is one reason I've purchased the fused SPT plugs that have been on group buy. It allows me to fuse anything built with that wire.
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ukewarrior, it's been a while since you posted this, but I could not agree more. But, my problem is that I'm new to RGBs with controllers powered by 12V power supplies, and I am not an electrician. I am overly cautious. What size fuse, and what type of inline fuse carrier, do you suggest between the 12V power supply and a E682 controller? I could not find this info anywhere on the forums, although I found your post and I can see in a couple of John Storms' videos a black plastic inline fuse holder on his line from the PSU to the controller. He doesn't mention the fuse size, wire gauge (or I missed it if he did).
 
So was this the last GB?
Mybe there should be another one.


GB.JPG


EdK said:
ukewarrior, it's been a while since you posted this, but I could not agree more. But, my problem is that I'm new to RGBs with controllers powered by 12V power supplies, and I am not an electrician. I am overly cautious. What size fuse, and what type of inline fuse carrier, do you suggest between the 12V power supply and a E682 controller? I could not find this info anywhere on the forums, although I found your post and I can see in a couple of John Storms' videos a black plastic inline fuse holder on his line from the PSU to the controller. He doesn't mention the fuse size, wire gauge (or I missed it if he did).
Click to expand...
 
I was just finishing hanging and connecting everything .I had all the lights on and just about to connect the last string . there was a sizzle. a connection burnt at the rectifier(which was properly soldered.the + wire burned off the rectifier).now,nothing works. no lights no nothin. no blackening or smoke smells from the renard box. I tried the outlet and its working .but no lights work. I restarted my vixen program and still just nothing is working . I looked at the 2 fuses in the box and they look fine.
please help me guys.im freakin out a little here.
 
thanks Mike.i can start checking the voltages tomorrow when theres more light ..i don't have a pic flasher and I don't even know where id go to find one to borrow or use.i live in the middle of nowhere.so I hope its not that.i cant find a list of voltages and where to check them .would you be able to send me a link to that page please? its been a good few years since I assembled mine.
thanks very much for your help. I'm feelin a little down right now.i don't believe this just happened.
 
thanks very very much. it was dark when it happened and I was in a bit of a state. I was using a crummy old flashlight to see in the box. as it happens,i think it is just a matter of replacing a 10A fuse.
 
Re: This is why we fuse everything.....PSA

Not sure if it was mentioned, but bad connections could cause this too. I had a fuse holder MELT the entire fuse! The blade of the fuse had a black spot from arcing, so I'm pretty sure it was a bad connection inside the holder.
 
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