Assembling SSR's (with daisey chain option)

[Wayne J]

In this post, I will show how to wire a SSR box using one indoor extension cord and a wirenut. This method using the daisey chain option will save a lot of money on extension cords in your setup.

I am using a wall mount electrical box, but this method can be applied to any enclosure you choose. You can use any length cord you wish... 6', 9', 12', or 15'. I highly recommend to use at least a 9' cord though, as very rarely will all the relay boxes be within 4' of each other.

OK, lets get started.........

First, lets cut the cord to the the specs below.


Now, the two 6" sections seperate them into seperate wires so you have four 6" wires. Strip one end 1/4" and the other end 3/4".
Take the two cord ends and seperate them 6". You will notice that one wire is smooth and one is ribbed, cut the smooth wire at 5" on both cords. Strip one of the 5" wires you now have on both ends 3/4", and the other 5" wire will get 1/4" and 3/4" (do not tin the 3/4" end of this wire!). You can tin the wires if you wish. I also make a 'hook' on the wires for the screws and tin those. You can also use crimp on terminals if you wish. Which ever way you go, just make sure no stray strands of wire are hanging out to short something out.
This is what you should have......



Now insert the wires into your enclosure. Take the 5" wire with the 1/4" stripped end and group it with the two shorter (smooth wires) wires of the two cords, twist together and secure using a wire nut.
The other 5" wire (with 3/4" strip on each end) is used to connect the common (silver screws) on the two outlets. Now secure the two longer ends of the two cords to the two remaining silver screws of the outlets. The other four 6" wires are for the channel connections from the SSR pcb.
You also need a way to keep from the wires being pulled out of the enclosure. In my setup I use two zip ties on the cords.



The outlets will have two small tabs on them that must be removed before assembly. Remove the tabs from the side of the gold screws. This separtes the outlets so we can have 4 channels.



Now attach the 4 channel wires from the pcb to the outlet's gold screws. Make sure that you always attach the wires in the same configuration on all of your boxes. This way, when testing, you know if you have a wire going to the wrong outlet. A good order is...

1 3
2 4

Push everything into the box, making sure to not have the wires laying on the triacs or the heatsink (if used). Look everthing over, look over it again, one more time... if all looks good put your cover on and test.
You can now plug relays to each other in the yard and save a bunch on cords. The reason for the length on the female plug is, I wrap it around to the side of the box and zip tie it. This allows it to be covered with the bag I use to cover my boxes to keep them weather proof.



IMPORTANT!!!!

Do not exceed the amperage rating of the cord on the first relay box of the chain. The amps can add up fast when you chain them together. Know what this rating is for the cords you are using.

 

[WWNF911]

Thanks Wayne! I live too far from any of the minis to go. Now I feel like I just had my first lesson at one!

Leon

 

[deplanche]

I hate to make assumptions when it comes to hooking these things up, so I will ask what is probably a silly question. On the order for the outlets that you show, are 1 and 2 on the same outlet, or is it 1 and 3 on the same? I don't think this matters too much, as long as all are the same, but I was confused, so I figured I would ask.

 

[Wayne J]

I hate to make assumptions when it comes to hooking these things up, so I will ask what is probably a silly question. On the order for the outlets that you show, are 1 and 2 on the same outlet, or is it 1 and 3 on the same? I don't think this matters too much, as long as all are the same, but I was confused, so I figured I would ask.

1 & 2 on the same outlet. The outputs of the pcb favor that setup, but you are correct, it doesn't really matter, as long as you do them all the same. Keeping them all the same only aids with plugging everything up and testing, so you can keep your sanity. LOL
I need to add a pic of that. (just didn't get to it yet)

 

[pixeldigger]

semi off topic to the original thread, but I never worry about labeling channels. I just take a few hours at setup and plug things in.
I then go back and turn on each channel , and then label it. I arrange my channels on the screen in the order I need them, and then apply that to all my sequences. Now, I need not worry about channel layouts.

This is a little more intuitive in the LOR software than in Vixen, but still is easy either way, and save me the hassle of worrying about channel orders.

 

[jeffathompson]

Now, the two 6" sections seperate them into seperate wires so you have four 6" wires. Strip one end 1/4" and the other end 3/4".
Take the two cord ends and seperate them 6". You will notice that one wire is smooth and one is ribbed, cut the smooth wire at 5" on both cords. Strip one of the 5" wires you now have on both ends 3/4", and the other 5" wire will get 1/4" and 3/4" (do not tin the 3/4" end of this wire!). You can tin the wires if you wish. I also make a 'hook' on the wires for the screws and tin those. You can also use crimp on terminals if you wish. Which ever way you go, just make sure no stray strands of wire are hanging out to short something out.
This is what you should have......
In my setup I use two zip ties on the cords.
he outlets will have two small tabs on them that must be removed before assembly. Remove the tabs from the side of the gold screws. This separtes the outlets so we can have 4 channels.


Do not exceed the amperage rating of the cord on the first relay box of the chain. The amps can add up fast when you chain them together. Know what this rating is for the cords you are using.

Great how to Wayne. Only thing I have found is that with my boxes I cut all your 6" dimensions back to 5" and 5" to 4" I hope this does not confuse anyone, but 6" of piggtail was more than enough to tuckin into the box. At 5" the fit a little neater and I still have plenty of room to keep the triacs clear.

Thanks Wayne. Just some additional experience.

 

[Wayne J]

Great how to Wayne. Only thing I have found is that with my boxes I cut all your 6" dimensions back to 5" and 5" to 4" I hope this does not confuse anyone, but 6" of piggtail was more than enough to tuckin into the box. At 5" the fit a little neater and I still have plenty of room to keep the triacs clear.

Thanks Wayne. Just some additional experience.

The extra length give a little more room when you need to do repair, such as replacing an opto or changing a fuse. :wink: The lengths you use do work well also, some of the ones I have from last season are at that length.

 

[Aurbo99]

Nice How TO Wayne,

I will give this a go when I get home in October.

Anyone know where I can get some of those blue boxes as seen in the pics?

The ones I have access to have "quick bite" wire locks in them, and they all have 4-6 precut holes in the bottom (think zap strap style lock)

I'd rather have just a few holes that I make in them that I can semi-seal with silicone caulking.

 

[Wayne J]

Nice How TO Wayne,

I will give this a go when I get home in October.

Anyone know where I can get some of those blue boxes as seen in the pics?

The ones I have access to have "quick bite" wire locks in them, and they all have 4-6 precut holes in the bottom (think zap strap style lock)

I'd rather have just a few holes that I make in them that I can semi-seal with silicone caulking.

I pick mine up at Lowes and Home Depot, but I'm sure you can get them at most larger hardware stores.
They are the Carlon "New Work" #A-238 box.
Here is a link to Ace Hardware for them....
http://www.acehardwareoutlet.com/(hfgpco55nqvehxm1ngpr55mz)/ProductDetails.aspx?SKU=998003613

 

[jeffathompson]

Here are a few more pictures of how I do them. I followed Waynes how to to a tee, and then just made a few minor adjustments to fit my preferences. One thing I did not note is what Wayne was using for standoffs or to keep the SSR off the bottom of the box. I found these little concrete anchors. They are designed to be inserted in a drilled hole in concrete and when the screw goes in they expand and lock tight. They will hold a screw tight just the way they are. So I just use a 3/4 x 6 screw from the top, fasten four to the ssr, then a dab of hot melt to the bottom of them, stick the ssr in the box, and when the glue sets you can take the screws out and remove the ssr. The standoffs just stay in place ready to reinstall the ssr. I'm sure the $4 plus is not what these boxes cost at Home Depot. I use a little cheaper one. These are 90 cents at Menards. They just have the push though down both sides. I use the wire tie to keep them from pulling out and if I want to make them a little more water tight I put a little silicone around where the wire goes through.

This is a great design Wayne came up with and by "tweeking" it just a little you can use it for almost any style outlet, SSR, box or cord.

 

[draksig]

Stupid question from the newbe.

I like this concept, run a power line from house to box1, then another from box1 to box 2, etc... Keeps you from having 16 extension cords running out the house (grinch with 64 channels).

on average, how many can you safely run in one chain before you have to start a new chain from the house again?

 

[Macrosill]

The answer depends on the current draw of each channel. If you have a single channel that draws 12 amps you should only put that single 15 amp extension cord. If you have only 1 amp per channel then you could put 12 ssrs on a single 15 amp supply cord.

 

[draksig]

So the limit on each cord is 15 amps. Then each cord must plug into a different circuit in the house, right? If I have two cords pulling 15 amps both plugged into the same outlet, that would be a bad thing.

I'm aiming for under 1 amp per channel so lets just use 1 for an example. If I never go beyond 12 chanels on at the same time, they could all be on the same line. Correct? Or if I divided the display into two areas, one cord to each and plugged into different breakers on the house, I could run up to 12 channels each area, the rest would have to be off.

 

[Dellboy999]

Just remember better to be safe then sorry, working on a theory of never turning on everything is not the best way to run things, work on the fact that everything will be on, leaving plenty of overhead means alot more piece of mind.

Also check what else is on the circuit you plan to use or could be on the circuit, thinking its all good only to have someone plug in a heater and turn it on will kill your circuit very quickly.

 

[Macrosill]

So the limit on each cord is 15 amps.

That depends on the cord and supply circuit.

Then each cord must plug into a different circuit in the house, right?

Possibly but not necessarily.

If I have two cords pulling 15 amps both plugged into the same outlet, that would be a bad thing.

If they were drawing more than 15 amps cumulatively then the breaker would trip, if the circuit is supplied with a 15 amp feed.

I'm aiming for under 1 amp per channel so lets just use 1 for an example. If I never go beyond 12 chanels on at the same time, they could all be on the same line. Correct? Or if I divided the display into two areas, one cord to each and plugged into different breakers on the house, I could run up to 12 channels each area, the rest would have to be off.

Correct, provided they are dedicated circuits.

This is where the Watt Meter addin in Vixen comes in very handy.


I am going to disagree with Dellboy999 about sizing your electrical supply based on the theory of everything being on. This is not an efficient way to size electrical supplies. Simply take a look at the main breaker in your house. It is either 100, 150 or 200 amps in most houses. Now if you turned on everything in your house at the same time, 50 amp electric range, 30 amp electric dryer, 20 amp electric washer, vacuum cleaners, toasters, microwaves, dishwashers, blow dryers, all the lights, electric heaters and so on you would be drawing more than any typical supply. Why are things figured this way? Well there is a very very slim chance "everything" would be on at any single moment. It would also be very, very expensive to size an electrical service to withstand that kind of draw. Also, lets take it one step further. Does your electric utility company have the capacity to supply enough current to every house at the same time if they turned every thing on at the same time? The answer is no. They can not even keep up with all the air conditioners during the hottest summer days, think brown outs and blackouts. You need to size your electrical feed based on current draw, not on bulb count.

 

[draksig]

Thanks for the feedback.

I believe that I can do quite a lot with the proper choreographing and timing. Rarely do I see a video of a display where everything is on at one time (except for some who turn everything on at one time for a finale). You get a couple of minutes into the sequence and a new feature comes on and you say, "Where did that come from". I think that is better than revealing all features in the first dozen seconds or so.

 

[garyfunk]

So the limit on each cord is 15 amps. Then each cord must plug into a different circuit in the house, right? If I have two cords pulling 15 amps both plugged into the same outlet, that would be a bad thing.

It would be a very bad thing. You owuld be pulling 30 amps on a 15 amp circuit. And pulling 15 amps on SPT cord is also a bad idea. I would neot ever pull more that 7 amps on SPT cord. It's just not worth the chance of something going wrong.

 

[draksig]

that's why I am asking all these quesitons. I'm very cautious about things like this.

I also suffer from Overanalysis paralysis. I researched digital cameras for over a year before I bought an expensive camera, then I did the same thing a year later.

I am reading through these forums (as well as other sites) studing the system and wanting to understand exactly what it can do, what its limitations are and safety.

I almost chocked when I saw the prices on Lights-O-Rama.

I am really tempted to duplicate what someone in another thread did and build a "mini grinch" so I can do something this year. Has anyone built a controller or SSR with perfboad and wire? I know doing a full system would be tedious that way but building a single controller, 16 channel Grinch (+4 SSRs) wouldn't be that bad.

As you can see, I'm really wanting to do something this year insted of waiting.

 

[P. Short]

I am really tempted to duplicate what someone in another thread did and build a "mini grinch" so I can do something this year. Has anyone built a controller or SSR with perfboad and wire? I know doing a full system would be tedious that way but building a single controller, 16 channel Grinch (+4 SSRs) wouldn't be that bad.

As you can see, I'm really wanting to do something this year insted of waiting.

People have done that, and I don't think that it is too hard to do. The PCBs are easy and fairly inexpensive to purchase, though, and wjohn usually has them in stock.

You do have to be careful with the 110VAC on that board, though.

 

[draksig]

People have done that, and I don't think that it is too hard to do. The PCBs are easy and fairly inexpensive to purchase, though, and wjohn usually has them in stock.

You do have to be careful with the 110VAC on that board, though.

Which board, wjohn's?

I've already been in touch with him and plan on buying some after the new year.