For me, the 12.5mm bit is actually better than the 1/2" in my experience. Some pixel are a little harder to insert, but there are fewer, to no, loose ones.
Drilling PVC in a straight line
- Thread starter aumoenoav
- Start date
For me, the 12.5mm bit is actually better than the 1/2" in my experience. Some pixel are a little harder to insert, but there are fewer, to no, loose ones.
The type of drill in your link will grab the plastic and it will not be good. Use either a step drill (something like this https://www.amazon.com/ZMZ-Titanium...560402&sr=8-2-spons&keywords=step+drill&psc=1) or a brad point drill (something like this https://www.amazon.com/12mm-Metric-...8&sr=1-4&keywords=12+mm+brad+point+drill+bits) or diamond drill bits (something like this https://www.amazon.com/FireKingdom-...3&sr=1-5&keywords=12+mm+brad+point+drill+bits).
T.D.Sutton
New member
My comment would be:- In my case, after drilling, I had to ream the rear holes in the pipe considerably so that the pixel could be inserted easily and cleared the pixel's front shoulder, while the front hole often required a light ream so that pixel went through and locked without too much effort. Thankfully I had a 1/4" - 1" engineering tapered reamer in my tool chest 
Regarding the drill, I found, as have others, that a "normal" metal drill catches and rips the PVC about while a gold coloured step drill running at 2,400 RPM worked brilliantly once it warmed up and leaves a slight chamfer on the front of the hole for the pixel shoulder/latch to lock into if the depth is set correctly.
Terry
Regarding the drill, I found, as have others, that a "normal" metal drill catches and rips the PVC about while a gold coloured step drill running at 2,400 RPM worked brilliantly once it warmed up and leaves a slight chamfer on the front of the hole for the pixel shoulder/latch to lock into if the depth is set correctly.
Terry
Yeah; brad point, that the the name I was looking for......but they still bit the pvc. Go slow and clamp the pipe.
I use a quick clamp..https://www.lowes.com/pd/IRWIN-QUICK-GRIP-12-in-Clamp/1205683
Which one of the one he linked to you was refering to?
Of the ones, using the wood drill cant be the right choise? (sounds like it would jump heavily).
Post 16 I made comment to a sketch. I thought I included the Drill Bit type then, but didn't.
Yes, am a woodcrafter so I have brad point bits. I like the brad point here so I can quickly hit the pre-marked straight line.
You do need to drill slower holes so it doesn't bit/grab. Clamping the pvc is an absolute. Also added later the 12.5 mm bit is better over the 1/2" And that I dulled my bit. Actually filed some of the sharpness. A slightly dull blade didn't bite as much.
I will take a look in the store what I can find. Hopefully I can get some results out of it, but I guess the most important from what everyone is saying
1. Use a drill press
2. Go slow
3. Use clamps
Here is what I did. My jig has a "channel" down the middle that fits a couple ratchet extensions through the 1/2" drilled holes and into the channel. As I drill the holes, the extension stays upright, keeping the pipe from twisting. Also to help prevent twist, I only drilled 5 foot lengths of pipe so if any teeny twist did happen, it would be corrected at the start of the next 5' pipe. I measured 2.9" from the drill bit to the right inside the channel and screwed down a 3/8" socket wrench bit so as the drilled hole passed over, it would slightly stop/drop on the socket wrench bit (to give me 2.9" spaced holes) The verticals on my house however, were 8' PVC and I did not notice any twist.
• I used a 1/2" Twist Drill Bit (which leaves a VERY clean start hole but a weird bottom exit hole)
^Here is a quick video showing how easy it was... (I did not clamp the pipe, I just held it in place with my left hand)
• Then flipped the PVC over and used a Step Drill bit to widen the exit hole (where I would insert the pixel)
(I'd drill through all the PVC I had first, THEN flip them over for the step drill bit.)
•Finally I coated the PVC with semi-gloss white paint to help prevent UV damage, brittleness and saggy aged PVC. (Only time will tell if this step was worth it.)
• I used a 1/2" Twist Drill Bit (which leaves a VERY clean start hole but a weird bottom exit hole)
^Here is a quick video showing how easy it was... (I did not clamp the pipe, I just held it in place with my left hand)
• Then flipped the PVC over and used a Step Drill bit to widen the exit hole (where I would insert the pixel)
(I'd drill through all the PVC I had first, THEN flip them over for the step drill bit.)
•Finally I coated the PVC with semi-gloss white paint to help prevent UV damage, brittleness and saggy aged PVC. (Only time will tell if this step was worth it.)
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I know this is an old thread, but how are you guys connecting these to your house? How well does it perform in high winds? I have some higher and very hard to get to areas that might require a lift or hiring someone to climb. I also have a bay window that is going to be a challenge. Really looking for innovative tricks for attaching to the house.
amrutherford2012
New member
Is that jig 3D printed?
If you are asking me; yes I used a 3d printed jig last year