Questions about Buck Converter 12V to 5V

if using the Hinks as data source ,be certain the outputs are enabled and configured.

try this if the purpose is to test the ws2812 in the switch , apply the 5v to n/o and gnd to common data to red . press the button while data is being sent from the Hinks. Voila.

You may need to write some code to use this switch as intended .

Else try here

https://www.adafruit.com/product/5236

Trying this now - ground and C to data though? Will take a look - but definetely want the LED on at all time regardless of what happens as a result of the switch.
 
I directly twist tied the system and did get 5v on data - so its there. I tried a split power like thing that split the 12v before the buck and tried data out to a 12v prop down the line and got no data past the switch - i suspect there is either more to wiring the switch needed than just the 3 wires i'm used to for pixels, or this switch is dead.

If I cant figure it out in the next couple of daya i'll just give up - just is weird that i can get anything on the light.
 
if using the Hinks as data source ,be certain the outputs are enabled and configured.

try this if the purpose is to test the ws2812 in the switch , apply the 5v to n/o and gnd to common data to red . press the button while data is being sent from the Hinks. Voila.

You may need to write some code to use this switch as intended .

Else try here

https://www.adafruit.com/product/5236

The adafruit link is the same switch that I bought on Amazon btw

5v & NO to +, GND & C to -, and Data to Red: No light, but when I push the button the buck converter makes a high pitched sound, and voltage on the display drops. Weird.....progress? but still no light. I'm thinking this switch isn't too reliable.....and too much effort for what I don't REALLY need....
 
The n/c and n/o are for read function and would require code for that process .

The led requires 5v+ v- and data <--data and v- have to from the hinks output.

You could try connecting the 5v+ to n/c and connect the common to vcc for pixel v+ .this should serve as a on off .

do not connect n/o or have its wire exposed .
 
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The n/c and n/o are for read function and would require code for that process .

The led requires 5v+ v- and data <--data and v- have to from the hinks output.

You could try connecting the 5v+ to n/c and connect the common to vcc for pixel v+ .this should serve as a on off .

do not connect n/o or have its wire exposed .

The n/c and n/o are for read function and would require code for that process .

The led requires 5v+ v- and data <--data and v- have to from the hinks output.

You could try connecting the 5v+ to n/c and connect the common to vcc for pixel v+ .this should serve as a on off .

do not connect n/o or have its wire exposed .

So is that 5v+ from the power input to NC? Then VCC is what in your suggestion? Common and the 5v in on the switch? (And I assume ground on the switch to ground on 5v- from the bucks?)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Have you verified output from the Hinkspix by connecting a working strand of pixels ?


5v + from buck -->nc blue wire

5v - from buck --> gnd yellow wire / for internal led

common ---> vcc / black wire power for internal led

- gnd output from hinks-->>gnd yellow wire / for internal led
data output from hinks --> data in /red wire

do not connect the green wire . cover or tape its end to prevent exposure .

monetary switches are not ideal for this as they bounce internally when pressed .
they are meant as read function rather than service .

there is potential to have issues here using heavy load, but for testing purpose of the single /internal led this should work as a on off test.
 
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I'm starting to think that since this is a "NeoPixel" that it cannot be driven by the HinksPix and xLights - starting to dig into that rabbit hole to see if I may need a different controller to try this out....
 
If you applied 12v to V in by mistake ,the pixel is kaput.

I have Ws2812b neopixels and they work fine with Hinks pix .

Xlights and other sequence apps do not care what pixels you have ,only the protocol you are using to transmit is of concern.

Confirming you have near 5v on the data line out from the Hinks is where I would start .
Try using the Hinks built in test function .
 
okay thanks for confirming that as it matched what I figuered as well

i likely blew up the first one, this one hasn't had more than 5v on it unless i screwed something up with the new buck converter (possible) but no matter what I try I can't get signal or anything to light up the pixel - through test on the hinks or otherwise.

I think i'm gonna phone this one in before filing another faulty return on the amazon order and just go to my standalone switch (which did work on the wiring I set up).

Thanks for walking through with that.
 
So adjusting the screw i was able to get to 5V on the output, so thanks all for that. The LED still doesn't turn on in the button - can't tell if I burned it out accidently or wired it incorrectly.

I assume I can just hookup the 3 wires that I would typically hook up for XConnect LEDS - in this case the black wire is positive, the red is data and the Yellow is ground - however, the LED doesn't light up. Out of the buck converter I have the shared ground and the V+ Out at 5V.


Am I missing anything else here? The NO/NC shouldn't have to be connected to anything, I wouldn't the common would either as I would imagine those are for the switch and not the LED.

Wire colors are so convoluted from one vendor to another, but in all my pixel and pixel strips, green (yellow) has always been data. The ground can be black or blue. Positive red or brown.
 
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