Soldering Basics >>Please read if new to soldering<<

Wayne J

Wayne J

Super Moderator
Staff member
I have composed a short video for everyone who may be new to soldering, or even if you have some experience, this video may be of help to achieve great results at soldering your new circuit board.

This video will show the technique I use to solder. I used a soldering iron temperature of 675º F (357º C), solder was 63/37 - .031" diameter, with a fine point tip.
Some suggested reading on soldering irons and tips can be found here.
http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?t=454

https://vimeo.com/7952625

Soldering Basics

 
Last edited:
Very clear video, Wayne. Your tips are easy to understand because you are seeing it while you hear it. Great job!
 
Nice iron - what make is it and where to buy? I especially like the holder for the roll. I have to hang my roll on the wall (I like to pull the solder off the roll, not unwind it - puts kinks in the solder). Very handy indeed. I have a rework station I got for a gift and it has everything including a hot air solder/desolder wand for use on smt devices - but not that nifty holder - (so I guess it doesn't have "everything" after all).:)
 
hwrdmltn said:
Nice iron - what make is it and where to buy? I especially like the holder for the roll. I have to hang my roll on the wall (I like to pull the solder off the roll, not unwind it - puts kinks in the solder). Very handy indeed. I have a rework station I got for a gift and it has everything including a hot air solder/desolder wand for use on smt devices - but not that nifty holder - (so I guess it doesn't have "everything" after all).:)
Click to expand...

There's actually a channel under the unit so that you can pull the solder out the front and it unreels in back (down & under). Somebody was THINKIN' !!


:)
 
Wayne, thanks. I've been lurking on here the last year + did a small setup for 09, and getting ready to order things to build boards for 2010. Thanks for the great video to help me get started.
 
Sharkey said:
I have a digital Iron and the temperature only goes up to 480F

Would I need to upgrade?
Click to expand...
Sure that iron's temp isn't calibrated in Celsius?

I have a digital iron (Aoyue 937+) that only goes up to 480 too, HOWEVER it's 480 Celsius not Fahrenheit.

As to what model Wayne's using, it looks like an Aoyue 936 or equivalent. They are sold under a number of brands, all from the same factory. In general most of Aoyue's line are clones of Hakko units of the same number. (The Aoyue 850, a clone of the Hakko 850, is a very popular hot air rework unit). The Aoyue 937+ is the same as the 936, except with digital controls.
 
I think you should be ok if you are using leaded solder as it has a lower melting point (450F), but if you are using a lead free solder then you are going to have to definitely use a hotter station. I personally use lead free and work at about 650F. I am seriously thinking of switching over to leaded solder though as lead free can be a HUGE PAIN IN THE *CENSORED*! Especially during desoldering and rework.
 
I took a closer look at the CSI stations.

As far as I can tell, the CSI-1A = Aoyue 936
CSI-2A = Aoyue 937
The 937+ which I have changes the temperature control from a dial to pushbuttons.
 
Thought I would throw my 2 cents in on this thread. It should be mentioned that not all solders are created equal regardless of the type (eg: 67-33 rosin core .031 etc). I have used many different brands of the same type of solder only to find that some of it is absolute crap. For instance I have found that the stuff from Radio Shack made the stuff from China look like junk. Then about 5 or 6 years ago I started using Kester "44" 67-33 rosin core which put the Radio Shack stuff to shame. The point I'm trying to make is you can have the best soldering iron in the world but equally important is the quality of the solder itself. I'm sure there are many members here who have discovered this as well.
 
Had to take some triacs off a Ren24 (wrong ones mixed in the bag) and I've never desoldered before. Went out and got a desolder braid and went at it. The problem/question is, in the process I ended up removing a couple of the solder pads. Is all lost?
 
I have found it easier to cut the triac legs, then de-solder the legs one at a time. The triac is going to be trashed anyway. Then, it is easier to clean the holes with a wick or however you need to remove the unwanted solder.
Keith
 
Keith R said:
I have found it easier to cut the triac legs, then de-solder the legs one at a time. The triac is going to be trashed anyway. Then, it is easier to clean the holes with a wick or however you need to remove the unwanted solder.
Keith
Click to expand...

Great idea, wish I would have thought of that.

Wayne, here are some pics. One on the front of the board and different one on the backside.View attachment 13023View attachment 13024
 
Last edited:
From those pictures, just solder the side of the PCB that has a pad and you should be OK. I say this because I see no trace going to those pads, so the trace would be on the other side.
 
Keith R said:
I have found it easier to cut the triac legs, then de-solder the legs one at a time. The triac is going to be trashed anyway. Then, it is easier to clean the holes with a wick or however you need to remove the unwanted solder.
Keith
Click to expand...

This technique was the most important addition to my soldering skills this year. I use it on almost all desoldering, but it's especially useful on any components with thick leads or many leads, especially TRIACS.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top