Pictures of Various FM02 and other VAST product Installations . . . . . . Click on the pictures !
- By OregonLights.
Case: Mouser P/N 563-NBF-32006. The plastic is very easy to drill and work with. Wall wart power, entrance via a strain relief to the toggle switch & power indicating LED. The power then goes into a LM317 regulator I bought in the DIYC group buy. For additional power filtering I added two 2200 uF capacitors to the output of the LM317 and routed it into the transmitter. The audio input is provided off a headphone jack from the computer line out. A stereo jack is mounted in the case and routed into the transmitter so a standard stereo cable can be used off the computer. I put a snap on ferrite bead (mouser P/N 810-ZCAT1730-0730A $1.20) onto the audio cable .The transmitter board in the cover is attached using screws through the case lid and nylon spacers I got from Ace Hardware. The case is thick enough I had to put a relief in for some components to make the frequency display sit flush with the outside of the case. The boards on the inside of the case are mounted to a thin plexiglass panel I made from a larger piece I got from Lowes. I just scored it and snapped to fit. It mounts with two screws into the case body. The boards are attached to the plexiglass plate using screws and nylon spacers and some larger nuts.
- By Underdog.
I've taken an old CD player & gutted it, desoldered the main connection bar and then pulled out all but 2 pins, the ground and the +12V. That makes it easier to not have to cut into the PSU harness and maintain the stock plug! I added a switch and a line input. I also added a 24V 2200uf cap to the input of computer power supply. The last real mod was I had the front panel on risers off the front, but after clicking around on the front buttons some I felt like it was bending the board, so the "KISS" method best solution was to remove the risers, take an old mouse pad, cut out a piece of the neoprene-like rubber and the place it behind the board to give more support. All the case modifications were done with a Dremel tool with a Roto-Zip cutting tool, easy, and fairly safe. The next step will be routing the RG58 antenna to the back of the box.
- By chelmuth.
I took an old Cable Modem I had laying around gutted it and put my FM-02 in it.. Just widened a few LED holes for the buttons and cut a rectangle for the display.. On the back I just had to square off a round hole and make a new little round hole for the Antenna jack.. The 3.5mm jack fit nice and tight in one of the original holes. I made mounting stand-off's by cutting the heads off of zipties and glueing them to the case. For the front display I used some extra pieces of plastic and wedged the front in there then glued the pieces of plastic.
- By rkhanso.
I have one of the Vastelec FM-02 transmitters and wanted to permanently mount it in a metal electrical box for shielding. It's not so easy to mount the transmitter board flush with the box and have the holes line up for the power, antenna and audio and make it still look OK.
Editorial note: There is a cutout template located on the FM02 wiki page.
- By imbluenote.
FM02 with micro RDS unit Enclosure is an old telephone demarc that was going to be trashed. I was going to use a orbit box but was able to get the other. There are two perf boards in the enclosure. One is a power conditioner (lower left). The second is a board to hold the few components needed to interface with the RDS unit (upper right)
- By dmcole.
1 Watt VAST unit
When I received the boards, I found the whole thing to be much smaller than I had anticipated and realized that I could fit it into an old SCSI enclosure, which had the added benefit of a good power supply. I had pulled the hard drive out of the enclosure years ago and hung onto it because I have trouble throwing anything away.
- By rogelio.
FM02 with MicroRDS unit
I still need to set the RDS level. I thought my transmitter wasn't working at first. Pure static. Till I turned down the RDS trim pot. It completely overpowered the music. The box was kinda small so I soldered the antenna wire to bottom of board and brought it out to a bulkhead fitting.
- By pcoshatt
I wanted to find an encloser for my FM-02. While at home depot I found this outdoor 4 square deep box and cover. I mounted the ant unit with plastic standoffs and plastic glue (kinda the same as pvc glue). I needed to make it weatherproof to use for a campout that I go to every year for the past 20 years. I normally setup a sound system and having it loud at one end of the barn and no one can stand by that half of the barn because it is to loud. Now I can not only setup speakers and cut the sound down to normal but also transmit all around the campsites to radios. Plus setup 6 boom boxes around the area and have music everywhere!!
- By hasoon
FM02 with Wall Wart Tamer
Here is my FM02 build using a gutted Sony A/V switch I picked up at a Boy Scout rummage sale. The other stuff you see in the case is my own home grown Wall Wart Tamer, 3.5 to 3.5 panel mount jack and a 6" 3.5 to 3.5 jumper all from MCM Electronics. Then I have a SMA-BNC panel mount from Ebay.
- By idleup
CableGuard CG-1000 Demarcation Enclosure Customized for FM-02 transmitter and accessories with power switch assembly SLM2596 Buck Converter Step Down Power Regulator and Conditioner (3v to 40v) BH1415 Sound Quality Improvement Modification (modifies 19Khz pilot tone level to reduce hum and improve sound quality) Wall Wart Power Pack (I used one from an old dust buster, the SLM2596 will allow you to use any adapter 3v to 40v for your input power)
- By CaptainMurdoch
Here are a few pics of my 10-minute, $0.50 from-a-garage-sale case. I believe it was originally a first aid kit from Johnson & Johnson. I used a few extra screws from my box-of-parts and cut the holes using a drill and saw. Could have been a bit neater if could have waited a few weeks until after I picked up a Sears 'dremel' at another garage sale. I still have a bit of room inside the case if I want to add something else or an internal regulated power supply.