How do I remove 8 function controller from light string?
- Thread starter piesrule58
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piesrule58
New member
Re: How do I remove 8 function controller from LED string?
That is much better. Thanks very much. I will give it a go tomorrow and let you know how it goes.
Thankyou all, Terry
That is much better. Thanks very much. I will give it a go tomorrow and let you know how it goes.
Thankyou all, Terry
toodle_pipsky
New member
Re: How do I remove 8 function controller from LED string?
That's an angle I didn't think of - modify the controller. Certainly keep it all together, great idea guys.
Here's my quick and dirty version . . . I took pictures because I'm lousy at explanation, should have just done that to start with! Hope it's of some help.
Also, sorry I wasn't paying attention - I thought you had the exact same lights as me. If I had have paid attention, I would have realised you have white ones. I got the 4 colour (red, blue, orange and green) ones. Sorry if I confused you talking about colours!
That's an angle I didn't think of - modify the controller. Certainly keep it all together, great idea guys.
Here's my quick and dirty version . . . I took pictures because I'm lousy at explanation, should have just done that to start with! Hope it's of some help.
Also, sorry I wasn't paying attention - I thought you had the exact same lights as me. If I had have paid attention, I would have realised you have white ones. I got the 4 colour (red, blue, orange and green) ones. Sorry if I confused you talking about colours!
TimW
New member
Re: How do I remove 8 function controller from LED string?
Hi tp
Like you said in the previous post - you seem to have removed the rectifier as well. (Yep - it is hiding on the board). This may not be such a good idea - for a couple of reasons.
- you're not getting the best power outcome (and frankly, who doesn't need more power/brightness!). When you're feeding the leds with AC power , half the time the Led will not be connected with the right polarity - so there will be no current for at least half the time. This cycles pretty quickly ( that 50Hz cycle) - so you'd probably only notice it as a flicker if at all. DC (rectified)- should provide more brightness though because the led is on all the time.
- also many leds I have known personally don't really like much reverse voltage across them. This might not be a problem if you have several in series but if it was only 1 led I think -24v might produce the magic smoke. So in general its better to keep them supplied with DC and limit the current with those resistors.
Tim
Hi tp
Like you said in the previous post - you seem to have removed the rectifier as well. (Yep - it is hiding on the board). This may not be such a good idea - for a couple of reasons.
- you're not getting the best power outcome (and frankly, who doesn't need more power/brightness!). When you're feeding the leds with AC power , half the time the Led will not be connected with the right polarity - so there will be no current for at least half the time. This cycles pretty quickly ( that 50Hz cycle) - so you'd probably only notice it as a flicker if at all. DC (rectified)- should provide more brightness though because the led is on all the time.
- also many leds I have known personally don't really like much reverse voltage across them. This might not be a problem if you have several in series but if it was only 1 led I think -24v might produce the magic smoke. So in general its better to keep them supplied with DC and limit the current with those resistors.
Tim
toodle_pipsky
New member
Re: How do I remove 8 function controller from LED string?
Thanks for that Tim, that's great to know, never had it explained to me. I had noticed a slight flicker, but hadn't connected the dots. Makes it ultra confusing when they work both ways, even if it's not for the long term!
Kinda a little bit off topic, but it is about LEDs :grin:. It's AC from the wall, it's DC from a Grinch, or any board for that matter - is that right? In that case I won't need a rectifier to drive LEDs directly from a Grinch?
I'm glad mr collingwood asked this question.
Thanks for that Tim, that's great to know, never had it explained to me. I had noticed a slight flicker, but hadn't connected the dots. Makes it ultra confusing when they work both ways, even if it's not for the long term!
Kinda a little bit off topic, but it is about LEDs :grin:. It's AC from the wall, it's DC from a Grinch, or any board for that matter - is that right? In that case I won't need a rectifier to drive LEDs directly from a Grinch?
I'm glad mr collingwood asked this question.
piesrule58
New member
Re: How do I remove 8 function controller from LED string?
I did as suggested by TimW and Prof and it worked like a charm. Of course, I knew it would. I love this forum. I would be sitting in a corner pulling my hair out if it weren't for you guys and gals.
I just wish I didn't have a work function on this weekend so I could attend the Melb Mini. I could have learned a lot and watched the mighty Pies beat the Saints at the G.
Oh well, maybe next year.
Thanks again to all, Terry
I did as suggested by TimW and Prof and it worked like a charm. Of course, I knew it would. I love this forum. I would be sitting in a corner pulling my hair out if it weren't for you guys and gals.
I just wish I didn't have a work function on this weekend so I could attend the Melb Mini. I could have learned a lot and watched the mighty Pies beat the Saints at the G.
Oh well, maybe next year.
Thanks again to all, Terry
jgrei1
New member
Re: How do I remove 8 function controller from LED string?
doesnt look too good at the end of the 3rd quarter.. will see what the last quarter brings.. go the pies!!
doesnt look too good at the end of the 3rd quarter.. will see what the last quarter brings.. go the pies!!
piesrule58
New member
Oh well, maybe next year.
Sorry to drag this up again guys
I have been following this discussion for a while. Last year I purchased some long strings of LED's from k'mart. These are something like 500 LED string and multi colored and multi function. I wanted to mod these to be driven by an olsen 595 and ssroz to control the colors as channels with vixen. I am using the original transformer that came with the set. Details are 240 volt in 24 volt out. 880mA 16.3VA.
The issue I have is that I have pulled the controller apart and the board has no resistors where previous boards on this thread have. Is it that the amount of LEDs on this string negate the need for these or is it something in the tranny that eliminates the need (or am I just not seeing something)?
While i'm at it, I want to be able to cut up one of these strings into short sections for a part of my display. will there be any issues with using the same tranny and just running it to all the sections and also will this mean that I need to add the resistor as previously stated in this thread?
Josh.
I have been following this discussion for a while. Last year I purchased some long strings of LED's from k'mart. These are something like 500 LED string and multi colored and multi function. I wanted to mod these to be driven by an olsen 595 and ssroz to control the colors as channels with vixen. I am using the original transformer that came with the set. Details are 240 volt in 24 volt out. 880mA 16.3VA.
The issue I have is that I have pulled the controller apart and the board has no resistors where previous boards on this thread have. Is it that the amount of LEDs on this string negate the need for these or is it something in the tranny that eliminates the need (or am I just not seeing something)?
While i'm at it, I want to be able to cut up one of these strings into short sections for a part of my display. will there be any issues with using the same tranny and just running it to all the sections and also will this mean that I need to add the resistor as previously stated in this thread?
Josh.
toodle_pipsky
New member
Well my understanding is that you will still need the rectifier - to change AC to DC. My guess is that because it's a big long string, there's probably enough LEDs in each series to bypass needing a resistor. If it's not there in the original, you probably don't need it. So you just need the 4 diodes (the black things with the grey stripe).
As for cutting it up into sections, you can do that, but you have to be careful. Easiest way is to cut it into the different series.
As for cutting it up into sections, you can do that, but you have to be careful. Easiest way is to cut it into the different series.
Hey thanks for the reply.
The four diodes on the board. Do they just go in place of the resistors shown in the diagram in Profs post?
If I where to cut this string up should I then replace them with appropriate resistors or should I be using both?
Also I was under the impression that the SSROZ was for AC applications. I am new to this sort of thing but I also assumed that the tranny put out AC. If this one puts out DC will I be able to use the SSROZ or will I have to use a DC version?
Thanks for putting up with us newbys.
Josh
A small amount of knowledge can be a dangerous thing
The four diodes on the board. Do they just go in place of the resistors shown in the diagram in Profs post?
If I where to cut this string up should I then replace them with appropriate resistors or should I be using both?
Also I was under the impression that the SSROZ was for AC applications. I am new to this sort of thing but I also assumed that the tranny put out AC. If this one puts out DC will I be able to use the SSROZ or will I have to use a DC version?
Thanks for putting up with us newbys.
Josh
A small amount of knowledge can be a dangerous thing
toodle_pipsky
New member
Oh boy . . . I'm a newbie too! We are like a disease, almost. 
I try to answer questions as a way of paying forward the help I've received. John (wjohn) gave an excellent explaination of LEDs/rectifiers/AC and DC at the Melbourne Mini on the weekend. So this is a good way of making sure I've understood it all!
Leave the diodes as they are. See the pics a few posts up - it's a case of remove everything all bar the diodes. As for the SSRs, I think you connect before the diode so the current is still AC. I'll take a pic of the LEDs I've already connected to an SSR to show you. Give me a tick.
I try to answer questions as a way of paying forward the help I've received. John (wjohn) gave an excellent explaination of LEDs/rectifiers/AC and DC at the Melbourne Mini on the weekend. So this is a good way of making sure I've understood it all!Leave the diodes as they are. See the pics a few posts up - it's a case of remove everything all bar the diodes. As for the SSRs, I think you connect before the diode so the current is still AC. I'll take a pic of the LEDs I've already connected to an SSR to show you. Give me a tick.
Thanks for the replies.
Yes I do want to be able to control the 4 strings separately. I have a few of these strings and being able to have all the lights in my show in one color than another should look good.
I will go out to the shed in a little while and snap some pics of the string of LEDs but I ditched the boxes last year when I got them.
You where asking about the packaging yes?
I hope these pics are alright. The string is log enough to go around the front of my house, down one side and around my double shed. Hope this all helps.
Josh
Yes I do want to be able to control the 4 strings separately. I have a few of these strings and being able to have all the lights in my show in one color than another should look good.
I will go out to the shed in a little while and snap some pics of the string of LEDs but I ditched the boxes last year when I got them.
You where asking about the packaging yes?
I hope these pics are alright. The string is log enough to go around the front of my house, down one side and around my double shed. Hope this all helps.
Josh
Matt_Edwards
New member
The lack of a resistor would indicate Pulse Width Modulation is being used and the supplier is using the Transformer current limit and has adjusted the ON time to limit the current to a "safe" limit.
So my guess is you won't want to connect them directly to a DC source without measuring a few things.
With a bit more information we might be able to help out.
Are all the LEDs grouped by Colour? ie Do all the red LEDs light up together?
How many LEDs per string ( connected in series)?
Cheers
Matt
So my guess is you won't want to connect them directly to a DC source without measuring a few things.
With a bit more information we might be able to help out.
Are all the LEDs grouped by Colour? ie Do all the red LEDs light up together?
How many LEDs per string ( connected in series)?
Cheers
Matt
prof
New member
Try this.
Remove the Led light string from the controller. You could use a small bridge rectifier but if it is easier for you to reuse the controller board I have shown a pic of where to solder wires onto 2 of the diodes, for power to the SSR. You can remove unused components form the board if you like (just leave the 4 diodes). Then connect it up as per 2nd pic.
Craig.
Remove the Led light string from the controller. You could use a small bridge rectifier but if it is easier for you to reuse the controller board I have shown a pic of where to solder wires onto 2 of the diodes, for power to the SSR. You can remove unused components form the board if you like (just leave the 4 diodes). Then connect it up as per 2nd pic.
Craig.
TimW
New member
Hadn't thought of that. Unfiltered full wave rectification returns to 0v just like the AC stuff. Neat!
Thanks for the replies guys.
I really wish I could try this out but.....I am having a real problem getting my 595's working (see 595 thread).
Just a stupid question...In the interest of neatness would there be any issue removing the components from the board and re-working them on a bread board so long as they stay in the same sequence?
Josh
I really wish I could try this out but.....I am having a real problem getting my 595's working (see 595 thread).
Just a stupid question...In the interest of neatness would there be any issue removing the components from the board and re-working them on a bread board so long as they stay in the same sequence?
Josh