20W Flood RGB LED driver board (WS2811)

RobG said:
If you have 12V supply, then you need to use boost converter, but I would discourage that. If you have a need for 2 different voltages, then get 24V and buck converter to lower it to 12V. You only need data and GND between controller and flood
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I have 24 volt power supply for each flood just wanna make sure I get wiring correct lol so I don’t need to order more before I move up to the 50s
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RobG said:
If you have 12V supply, then you need to use boost converter, but I would discourage that. If you have a need for 2 different voltages, then get 24V and buck converter to lower it to 12V. You only need data and GND between controller and flood
Click to expand...

Thanks rob ! These 20s are awesome perfect for my needs cant imagine brighter wow love it . This was pointed straight up as it lay flat on table.
What is most commonly used for heat sink it gets pretty hot ?
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Most use standard 20W flood enclosures, the ones that use COB LEDs, they are hard to get these days.
BTW, those power supplies should not be used with my floods, those are constant current supplies! You need constant voltage.
 
RobG said:
Most use standard 20W flood enclosures, the ones that use COB LEDs, they are hard to get these days.
BTW, those power supplies should not be used with my floods, those are constant current supplies! You need constant voltage.
Click to expand...

Well poop they were freebies I have access to about 20 lol go figure thanks I’ll change it out .


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If they don’t go over 24-27V then you are fine I guess, CC supplies will increase voltage to get to specified current, in your case 3A, but that will never happen so it always be at max voltage it can deliver.
 
RobG said:
If they don’t go over 24-27V then you are fine I guess, CC supplies will increase voltage to get to specified current, in your case 3A, but that will never happen so it always be at max voltage it can deliver.
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What about these ?


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Nope, those are not good, see my link few posts back. The ones in your pic use multiple 0.5W LEDs and enclosures are too small.
 
Well beware as whoever makes these odiously don’t know how to put a screw in straight and now I can’t get them out
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Cross threaded 2 of the screws


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Took advantage of the extra space and just made all in one wireless flood with the pixel pop . Works great thanks rob for your help .
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wilmar said:
Took advantage of the extra space and just made all in one wireless flood with the pixel pop . Works great thanks rob for your help .
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Hi Wilmar

Cardboard is a bad idea inside the flood housing . Styrofoam works well and holds no moisture .
 
wilmar said:
Great thanks for the tip I’ll change it out figured styrofoam would melt


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Double sided foam tape is commonly used to isolate the electronics from the metal case .

I used white styrofoam to pack out the 20w rgb in a t-200 box
 
angus40 said:
Double sided foam tape is commonly used to isolate the electronics from the metal case .

I used white styrofoam to pack out the 20w rgb in a t-200 box
Click to expand...

Great very appreciated thank you


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I did something wrong I think with mine. I hooked up 2 to power/ground only. Then tried power and data. Same result of always on white with flicker. Looking at the back of the 2 boards I have tested I notice some burn marks as compared to a non tested one. I don't know if I damaged the board and that is why the always on white but I wanted to start with that. Posted the same question over at diychristmas.org
 

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It's probably a damaged board. I've had a few that have gotten one or more colors permanently stuck on. It's happened when either I was careless and hot-plugged it, or when a wire got damaged (squirrels, etc...) After several attempts, I've had no success in repairing the boards and just replace them now when they go bad.
 
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